Grand Tour on the River

www.worldofcruising.co.uk June / July 2015 £4.95

5 NEW SHIPS REVIEWED

World cruise secrets What the cruise lines Grand tour don’t want to tell you on the river On board Uniworld’s Maria Theresa

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What’s~ What’s included included ~ THE SIX STAR CRUISES.CO.UK DIFFERENCE • All beverages on-board including fine GEMS OF THE CARIBBEAN CARIBBEAN DELIGHTS & BARBADOS wines, premium spirits & Champagne with Miami to Panama Cruise ID: 58946C Monte Carlo to Marseille Cruise ID: 28942P Crystal, Regent, Seabourn & Silversea 27 November 2015 | 11 nights | Crystal Symphony 7 December 2015 | 7 nights | Silver Whisper • Explore more with FREE AzAmazing UK’s No.1 ultra-luxury cruise specialist Exclusive offers and more choice - Expert knowledge Fly from the UK to Miami (overnight hotel stay)| Grand Fly from the UK to Barbados | Bequia | St George | SM - Every leading luxury cruise line Evening excursions on selected Azamara - Personalised recommendations - Exclusive added benefits Cayman | Ocho Rios | Puerto Limon | Colon (transfer to Kralendijk | Oranjestad | Willemstad | Barbados / Fly UK sailings - Tailored packages to suit you - All-inclusive packages available Panama City for 3 night hotel stay) / Fly UK • All fine dining and gourmet cuisine NEW AND EXCLUSIVE TO SIXSTARCRUISES.CO.UK WHY NOT UPGRADE TO A 4 NIGHT PRE-CRUISE • Overnight hotel stays where required INCLUDES PRIVATE OVERSEAS TRANSFERS STAY IN BARBADOS FROM £500 PER PERSON? • Enjoy FREE shore excursions on all sailings Award-winning service Full protection for your peace of mind with Regent** - Your own personal Cruise Concierge - Bonded ABTA member - Excellent customer relationships - ATOL protected Oceanview from Balcony from Oceanview from Balcony from • Luxurious suite or stateroom - Flexible service - Part of the world’s largest cruise distributor accommodation £2,499pp £2,899pp £1,999pp £2,699pp

CALL YOUR CRUISE CONCIERGE ON Opening hours: .co.uk VISIT 8am to 10pm SIXSTARCRUISES.CO.UK Terms & Conditions: Prices are correct at the time of going to print (05.06.2015). *On-board spend offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer or promotion, is subject to availability, may be withdrawn at any time and applies to new bookings only before 31st July 2015. Any on-board spend amounts are per stateroom based on two adults sharing 7 days a week unless otherwise specified. Minimum spend of £2,999 per booking applies. Oceania Free Prestige Select Beverage Packages are one per full fare paying adult of 21 years of age or older with a maximum of 2 per stateroom. Oceania complimentary gratuities do not apply to service charges relating to private dining, spa treatments or alcoholic beverages. Free Business Class flights are available on a first-come first-serve basis, are limited and will be based on selected airlines and seat booking classes. Flights are based on London departures unless otherwise stated. Date shown refers to departure from UK and total number of nights includes required pre-cruise hotel stays where stated. All offers are subject to 0800 280 2613 availability and may be changed or withdrawn at any time. **Free unlimited shore excursions are capacity controlled based on a first come, first served basis. Requested excursions may not be available at time of booking. Supplement will apply on ‘Regent Choice’ excursions and excludes ‘Private Arrangements’ and ‘Adventures Ashore’ programmes. ^Conditions permitting. Fares shown are based on two adults sharing the lowest grade stateroom per category specified. For full terms and conditions and what’s included please refer to relevant cruise line’s latest brochure or website. SixStarCruises.co.uk acts as an agent for ATOL-protected cruise operators only. Other cruise operator terms and conditions may apply. An administration charge of £29.50 applies to all telephone bookings. A 2.5% credit card charge applies. Errors & omissions excepted. SixStarCruises.co.uk is a trading name of WTH (UK) Ltd (ABTA L3743 - Q3348). SixStarCruises, The Bridge, Unit 4, Moorland Gate Business Park, Cowling Road, Chorley PR6 9FE. LUXURY CRUISES FROM £1,199PP THE FREE FLIGHTS | HUGE SAVINGS | LIMITED AVAILABILITY!

Balcony from Ocean View from Balcony from Exclusive$300 TO SPEND reader ON-BOARD* offer £1,779pp £2,739pp £3,039pp QUOTE SSCWOC

INCLUDES UP TO 35 COMPLIMENTARY NEW SHORTER DURATION ITINERARY SHORE EXCURSIONS

Balcony from Oceanview from Balcony from £2,599pp £1,199pp £1,499pp

BRINGING CRUISE HOLIDAYS TO LIFE

Our contributors

GARY BUCHANAN, our Contributing Editor, is one of cruising's most distinguished writers, published regularly in national newspapers. He is the author of three books on the QE2 and was winner of the Best River Cruise Feature category in 2014’s CLIA cruise journalism awards.

JO FOLEY is a renowned author and journalist as well as our World of Spas editor, having previously edited Woman, Options, and The Observer magazine. She travels worldwide in search of the latest spa and beauty news and reports back on the most blissful hideaways.

WILLIAM DAVID is interested in astronomy and describes himself as an occasional cruise passenger - when he is not cycling or fell- walking. In 2009 he climbed all 214 Lake Welcome District 'Wainwrights', in 2011 he cycled 4,500 miles around the GB coastline. A whole new cruise line came into being just as this DANIELLE FEAR, known to her blog readers as issue of World of Cruising was going to press. See SUE CruiseMiss, is a freelance writer and social BRYANT’s on-the-spot report from the announcement media professional covering all aspects of sea in New York on PAGE 10. travel. In a 2014 poll conducted by USA Today Except fathom (note the trendy name with no capital she was one of only two British bloggers to letter) is not so much a cruise line as a new travel figure in the Top 10 concept that just happens to use a cruise ship to get its DAVID FISKE is World of Cruising’s Digital eager volunteers from one place to another. Content Editor. A website developer with a The image-enhancing venture from Carnival passion for cruising, he took his first holiday at Corporation is using Adonia, the smallest ship in the sea in 2009 and was hooked immediately. He P&O Cruises fleet. From next April, instead of carrying lives in South Wales with his wife and baby son an adults-only cruise crowd in country-club comfort, it BRIDGET McGROUTHER is a newspaper and will begin hosting volunteer families who want to “give magazine journalist. After marrying a something back” and “make a difference” by assisting a Yorkshireman and moving from Glasgow to The women’s group producing organic chocolate, and Dales, she realised a long-held dream to become helping to provide clean water in the Dominican a freelance travel writer. Republic. LAURA-JANE PARKER was shortlisted in the P&O regulars are already mourning the loss of their 2015 CLIA Cruise Journalism Awards for her ship – which will keep its name – and hard-bitten Happy Cruisemas feature published in World of American cynics have dubbed the project “Peace Corps Cruising Issue 66, but was beaten to the First at Sea” in reference to the volunteer organisation Time Cruiser award by actor Daniel Roche – Ben from the TV's Outnumbered. Not to be outdone, inspired by JFK in the 1950s and which is still running her video review of Anthem of the Seas is online today. Some have suggested that the venture will be at the World of Cruising website evolve into a way of allowing Carnival to take passengers to Cuba. SUSAN PARKER has been writing about cruise We will see. But in the meantime, we wish fathom shipping for 20 years, for much of that time as editor of the highly-respected Lloyd’s Cruise every success. International. She has visited many of today’s latest ships both on the water and while they were under construction

LOUISE RODDON is an award-winning travel journalist with more than 30 years experience contributing to national newspapers and magazines. She was the winner of the best Off The Beaten Track Cruise Feature in 2013’s CLIA John Honeywell cruise journalism awards. Extraordinary Bonus Savings plus Free Airfare*, Free Gratuities* and 50% Single Supplement*

BUSINESS CLASS AIR FROM £ 49 Free pp. e/w Prestige Beverage Package* on every voyage Unlimited premium spirits, champagne, wine and beer wherever and whenever you wish SCANDINAVIAN SOJOURNS PLUS Southampton to Copenhagen | 12 Days 7 July 2015 on board NAUTICA POINTS OF DISTINCTION Southampton | Bruges (Zeebrugge) | Amsterdam Free Stockholm | Helsinki | St. Petersburg | Tallinn I FREE AIRFARE on every * Business Class Air Upgrade Klaipeda | Gdansk | Copenhagen voyage* on select voyages Penthouse Suite from ...... £2,689 per guest Veranda Stateroom from . . . .£2,179 per guest I Mid-size, elegant ships Inside Stateroom from ...... £1,729 per guest catering to just 684 or 1,250 guests

BUSINESS BUSINESS CLASS AIR CLASS AIR I Finest cuisine at sea, served in a variety of distinctive FREE FREE open-seating restaurants, at no additional charge

I Gourmet culinary programme crafted by world-renowned Master Chef Jacques Pépin

I Spectacular port-intensive itineraries featuring overnight NORDIC PATHWAYS BALTIC MARVELS visits and extended evening port stays Southampton to Copenhagen | 12 Days Copenhagen to Stockholm | 7 Days 2 August 2015 on board MARINA 14 August 2015 on board MARINA I Country club casual Southampton | Bruges (Zeebrugge) | Amsterdam Copenhagen | Berlin (Warnemünde) ambiance; tuxedos and Berlin (Warnemünde) | Visby | Helsinki Tallinn | St. Petersburg gowns are never required St. Petersburg | Tallinn | Copenhagen Helsinki | Stockholm I The Culinary Centre – Penthouse Suite from ...... £2,409 per guest Penthouse Suite from ...... £1,779 per guest the only hands-on Veranda Stateroom from . . . .£1,919 per guest Veranda Stateroom from . . . .£1,489 per guest cooking school at sea+ Inside Stateroom from ...... £1,499 per guest Inside Stateroom from ...... £1,139 per guest I Acclaimed Canyon Ranch BUSINESS CLASS AIR SpaClub® I Extraordinarily high FREE staff-to-guest ratio ensures exemplary personalized service

I More than 83% of accommodations feature private verandas

NORDIC SPLENDOUR CONTINENTAL COASTS BEST VALUE IN UPSCALE CRUISING Copenhagen to Southampton | 12 Days Southampton to Rome | 14 Days + 27 August 2015 on board NAUTICA 8 September 2015 on board NAUTICA Available on board Marina and Riviera. * Free Airfare is subject to availability and Copenhagen | Helsinki | St. Petersburg Southampton | Bordeaux | Bilbao | La Coruña | Oporto Terms & Conditions. Tallinn | Stockholm | Visby Lisbon | Portimão | Barcelona | Provence (Marseille) Berlin (Warnemünde) | Amsterdam Monte Carlo | Florence/Pisa/Tuscany (Livorno) Bruges (Zeebrugge) | Southampton Rome (Civitavecchia) Offer expires 31st July 2015. Offers are on selected sailings. Penthouse Suite from ...... £2,699 per guest Penthouse Suite from ...... SOLD OUT Fares are in Pounds Sterling. Fares and offer are based on double occupancy, are subject to availability, and may be withdrawn Veranda Stateroom from . . . .£2,199 per guest Veranda Stateroom from . . . .£2,199 per guest at anytime. Additional terms, conditions and restrictions apply, complete terms may be viewed at OceaniaCruises.com. Inside Stateroom from ...... £1,739 per guest Inside Stateroom from ...... £1,739 per guest PRO40689 UK CALL 0845 505 1920 OR CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL AGENT WWW.OCEANIACRUISES.COM

Dates refer to the cruise departure dates. Overnight stay in port. Two overnight stays in port. 6 CONTENTS WORLD OF CRUISING Contents

www.worldofcruising.co.uk June/July 2015 Issue 69 Audited circulation, December 2014: 20,679 copies

Cover Uniworld’s S.S. Maria Theresa EDITOR John Honeywell [email protected] WORLD OF SPAS EDITOR Jo Foley CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Gary Buchanan DIGITAL CONTENT EDITOR 16 anthem of the seas David Fiske [email protected] art director & design consultant Kate Harkus CONTRIBUTORS William David, Danielle Fear, Katy Howard, PROMOTIONS Bridget McGrouther, Laura-Jane Parker, Susan Parker COLUMNISTS 72 Where will your Voyage of Discovery Captain Greybeard, Andy Harmer, Edwina Lonsdale take you? SALES DIRECTOR Chris Cummings [email protected] SALES AND MARKETING DIRECTOR Peter Grant [email protected] MANAGING DIRECTOR Chris Pitchford [email protected] FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS Tel. +44 (0) 208 444 2554 [email protected] PUBLISHED BY Real Response Media 115 Sydney Road London N10 2ND All enquiries +44 (0) 208 444 2554

Reproduction not permitted without the NEWS express written consent of The Editor. All efforts are made to ensure factual accuracy is correct at the time of publication. 4 Welcome aboard World of Cruising magazine © 2015 World of Cruising is proud to be a 10 Cruise news member of CLIA Farewell to P&O's Adonia and RMS St Helena CONTENTS 7 WORLD OF CRUISING 24 VIKING STAR

REGULARS

8 Being There Bergen: Gateway to the fjords 40 Life On Board With Elizabeth Phillips, youngest deck officer on P&O’s Britannia 42 Columnists Andy Harmer and Edwina Lonsdale 54 3 of a Kind FEATURES Amsterdam, Copenhagen and Hamburg 57 Cruise cuisine NEW SHIPS REVIEWED Cooking with the stars on Britannia 16 Does Anthem of the Seas hit all the 64 Where Next? right notes? Northern delights: A journey to the Aurora Boralis 22 How does the smart ship match up for families? 76 Captain Greybeard What Viking Star means to the next generation 24 Viking invaders: A Star is born of cruising

28 Trip of a Lifetime Salacious secrets of a world cruise on QE2 36 Adventure cruising WORLD In search of a solar eclipse OF SPAS

NEW RIVER VESSELS 79 News First snow room in a spa at sea 44 The stately Maria Theresa 80 Doctors at sea 48 Scenic Jasper: a floating space ship Take care with those treatments 52 Paddling Princesse on the Loire 82 Looking good With the latest beauty products

62 Winning ways What does Katy do next? 70 Nothing to Fear What the cruise lines DON”T tell passengers 8 BEING THERE WORLD OF CRUISING Gateway to the fjords

f the half-million cruise passengers whip visit Bergen each year, none can have been as fortunate as those invited to witness the christening of Viking Star in May. O Norway’s second city, en fete to celebrate the country’s Constitution Day, was treated to an evening of celebrations and fireworks. It was an emotional moment for Viking’s Torstein Hagen, who has made Bergen his second home Almost 350 cruise ship calls are made to the city each year; visitors flock to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Bryggen wharf, the Floyen funicular railway, and a short drive away, the Edvard Grieg Museum. On July 28, Bergen will welcome all four Fred Olsen ships - Black Watch, Boudicca, Braemar and Balmoral - on the same day. INSIDE VIKING STAR : Page 24 BEING THERE 9 WORLD OF CRUISING 10 NEWS WORLD OF CRUISING

P&O LOSES ADONIA TO CARNIVAL VOLUNTOURISM BRAND

By SUE BRYANT

The smallest ship in P&O’s fleet, the 710-passenger Adonia, is to leave the UK next year to take a central role in a novel cruise venture being launched by Carnival Corporation. The new brand, fathom, will take guests on seven- night cruises to projects in the Dominican Republic. Passengers will be invited to work alongside local NGOs on community projects during the three days each week the ship spends docked at Amber Cove, Carnival’s purpose-built port near Puerto Plata. Although some traditional shore excursions will be offered, the idea is that once on the ground, passengers get stuck into their chosen volunteering activities. Some groups will build and deliver water filters to the two million islanders who have no access to clean water. Others will teach English, a vital skill on an island that told, 20-60-somethings, families and over-50s who depends heavily on tourism. Yet more will work on a want to give something back; mainly Americans but Brits cacao plantation, planting crops and working with a and other Europeans, too. women’s cooperative to make organic chocolate. fathom’s president, Tara Russell, whose background is The venture will start next April, once Adonia has been in socially responsible business enterprises, claims that given a brief refurbishment. fathom is ‘not a cruise product’, despite the fact that it’s Launching fathom at a press conference in New York, based on a ship. The cruises certainly won’t be like Arnold Donald, CEO of Carnival Corporation, explained: conventional Caribbean voyages. “fathom will cater to a growing market of consumers As soon as Adonia leaves Miami, passengers embark on who want to have a positive impact on people’s lives, and an ‘immersive experience’. This means Spanish lessons, aren’t always sure where to begin.” This includes, we’re as well as food, music and entertainment reflecting the

Refits will make Quest and Journey more Amazing

Dry-dock refits for Azamara’s two ships next year will bring comprehensive changes, promises Richard Twynam, managing director for UK & Ireland. From bow to stern, no area will be left untouched and the company promises a transformation of all its cabins, dining, spa and entertainment.

The two 686-passenger vessels, Journey and Quest, were originally built in 2000 for the now-defunct Renaissance Cruise Line and they are almost identical to P&O’s Adonia, and Insignia, regatta and Nautica in Oceania’s fleet. Journey will enter dry-dock in the Bahamas in January, while Quest will be worked on in Singapore in April. When they emerge, they will Azamara Club Cruises president Larry Pimentel said: “These major upgrades are going to have an instant impact on our guests’ experience. Each corner of the ships will have a new look and feel, setting a brighter, more contemporary ambiance, and new venues will bring fresh experiences. “We have paid close attention to the smallest of details, and we are redefining our onboard experience in every way.” NEWS 11 WORLD OF CRUISING

P&O LOSES ADONIA TO CARNIVAL VOLUNTOURISM BRAND Plan it, book it

Editor John Honeywell is among the panel of experts giving out advice at the Planet Cruise Holiday Show on 28 June at the Aegeas Bowl cricket ground, Southampton. More than 30 ocean and river cruise lines will be represented and visitors booking a holiday will be able to take advantage of exclusive offers, including low deposits, free upgrades, and free drinks packages. The show will be open from 9.30am to 4.00pm

region’s culture. There will be ‘community-building’ activities and intensive briefings about the work to come. What makes fathom different, should it succeed in capturing the imagination of the travelling public, is that the volunteering activities are core to the product, rather than just an option or an afterthought. “So many non-profit activities depend on philanthropic gifts,” Russell explains. “That makes it extremely difficult to drive a sustainable operation. That’s why fathom is unique; it’s a sustainable, market-driven business model.” From whisky to wherever

First-time visits to Lunga on the Treshnish Isles to the west of Mull, and Stroma in the Pentland Firth, together with 16 themed cruises focussing on everything from whisky to walking, are among the plans for The Queen’s favourite cruise ship in 2016. Hebridean Princess, which carries 50 passengers in stately home comfort, will also be leaving Scottish waters for a cruise to Northern Ireland in partnership with the National trust, and for a three-port call to the Isle of Man. Other themed voyages include a musical exploration of Fingal’s Cave on Staffa, inspiration for Mendelssohn, and a voyage visiting three of Scotland’s Michelin-starred restaurants. One cruise in spring, and another in autumn, will have no published itineraries; the ship will go wherever the captain decides on a day-to-day basis. www. hebridean. co.uk NORWEGIAN EPIC COMES TO EUROPE YEAR-ROUND. Norwegian Epic has made a name for herself in Europe. So much so, she’s now sailing from Barcelona year-round, cruising the Western Mediterranean all year and spicing it up with the Canaries and Morocco in winter. Plus, she’s sailing special Iberian Peninsula cruises to and from Southampton. Discover the ship that re-invented the Freestyle Cruising® experience, bringing to the sea a unique brand of innovation, excitement, fun and freedom.

NORWEGIAN EPIC HIGHLIGHTS: • 24 DINING OPTIONS • 20 BARS AND LOUNGES • MULTIPLE DECKS OF ENTERTAINMENT • MUSICAL PRISCILLA, QUEEN OF THE DESERT (from Oct 25, 2015) • BEATLES TRIBUTE ACT IN THE CAVERN CLUB (from Oct 25, 2015) • CIRQUE DREAMS® & DINNER • DANCE SENSATION BURN THE FLOOR • NICKELODEON™ FAMILY ENTERTAINMENT • 2 BOWLING ALLEYS • AQUA PARK WITH 3 WATERSLIDES • 2-LEVEL SPORTS COMPLEX • EPIC CASINO • SPA & FITNESS CENTRE

• THE HAVEN BY EUROPE’S LEADING CARIBBEAN’S LEADING WORLD’S LEADING LARGE SHIP NORWEGIAN® CRUISE LINE CRUISE LINE CRUISE LINE 2008 – 2014 2013 | 2014 2012 | 2013 | 2014 www.worldtravelawards.com www.worldtravelawards.com www.worldtravelawards.com

EXPLORE WWW.NCL.CO.UK OR CALL 0845 201 8900^ TO BOOK

@NCL_UK /NORWEGIANCRUISELINEUK

5937_Fi_WOC_FP_June_July_2015.indd 1 05.06.2015 11:27:03 NEWS 13 WORLD OF CRUISING

Viking's RMS sails into retirementobeisance to Norse deities did All bets not persuade the weather gods to are on smile on the ceremony Crystal Cruises was the first operator to take advantage of new legislation allowing ships to keep their on-board casinos open when in the island’s port. Most countries insist that cruise ship casinos and shops are The last sailings of RMS St Helena next year will include a closed while the vessels are within rare visit to the UK. The two-week trip from the remote their territorial waters, and even in South Atlantic island, via Tenerife, used to be a feature of Malta, ships must apply to the the ship’s regular service, but in recent years it has been Gaming Authority for permission confined to a shuttle between Cape Town and Ascension, Crystal Serenity took advantage of with an occasional diversion to Tristan da Cunha. the new rules when staying in Valetta overnight on June 5. The island’s first airport will open for business in May and the ship, which is the only regular link to the outside world for the 4,000 islanders, will be retired in July. On her visit to London, the ship will pass under Tower Bridge and be moored alongside HMS Belfast from 5 to 14 BIG BUSINESS June. The vessel, which carries cargo as well as passengers, will be at FOR TYNESIDE anchor in St James Bay for the airport opening and for five days in July before the final sailing ,which arrives in Cape Town on 15 July. The 50,000 cruise passengers arriving at Port of Tyne last year were less than a tenth of the number brought by ferries – Good morning, Seattle there’s a daily service between Newcastle and Amsterdam. Newer, bigger ships cruising to Alaska are bringing a boom to the Together, the visitors bring in American port of Seattle. Royal Caribbean’s Jewel of the Seas has about £55 million a year into the replaced Rhapsody; Ruby Princess and Crown Princess have been local economy, supporting about switched to the itineraries operated 2,000 local jobs. last year by Grand and Golden. There will be 27 cruise calls this Holland America Line has year. introduced the 1,300-passenger Fred Olsen Cruise Lines and Statendam. Cruise & Maritime Voyages are Seattle expects a total of 192 using the port as a starting point cruise calls. Other regulars will be for voyages, while new visitors Carnival Legend, Celebrity Solstice, this year include Oceania. Norwegian Jewel, Norwegian Pearl and Oceania Regatta.

Big plans for Scotland

Edinburgh planners have Large cruise ships visiting the The new site is further east on the unveiled proposals for a Scottish capital currently anchor in Firth of Forth, about 14 miles from purpose-built cruise terminal the shadow of the Forth Bridge and the centre of the city. The on the site of a disused power take passengers ashore by tender to development consortium believe it station – but it could be up to Queensferry, or at Newhaven. could attract up to 200 cruise ships a 15 years before the £300 Smaller ships can berth at Rosyth or year. The port would include a visitor million facility welcomes its in the dock basin close to the Royal centre, retail and business park on first ship. Yacht Britannia in Leith. the 120-acre site. 14 NEWS WORLD OF CRUISING

Dancing Queens draw a 1.3 million crowd to Liverpool

The spectacular gathering of Cunard’s 3 Queens on the Mersey has been hailed as the biggest waterfront event in the history of Liverpool. The free show on Bank Holiday Monday was watched by an estimated 1.3 million as Queen Mary 2, Victoria, and Elizabeth sailed majestically up the river in line astern and then turned in a synchronised maritime ballet.

Cunard Line – which began operations in Liverpool 175 years ago next month - was granted the Freedom of the City during the celebrations and Liverpool hopes that it will once again become an embarkation port for Transatlantic crossings. But Cunard director Angus Struthers has cautioned Mayor Joe Anderson against being over-optimistic. Although he said that services from Liverpool had only been “suspended” 50 years ago when the company’s HQ moved to Southampton, there are no plans to re-commence regular voyages from the Mersey. “Sadly, the facilities at the Cruise Terminal do not allow for a full ship turnaround. But Liverpool will continue to be a special part of Cunard, and long may that continue. If there were bigger facilities then of course we would look at it again because Liverpool and Cunard are inextricably linked.” “There wouldn’t have been the reception, there wouldn’t have been the atmosphere, there wouldn’t have been the crowd numbers anywhere else. “We always thought it would be incredibly special, but it surpassed everyone’s expectations.” Qeeen Mary 2 will be back in Liverpool on July 4, setting out across the Atlantic to re-create the first crossing made by Cunard’s RMS Britannia in 1840. However, QM2 will begin its voyage in Southampton; after Liverpool, she heads for Halifax, Nova Scotia; Boston, and New York. In the next issue of World of Cruising, GARY

BUCHANAN relates the story of Cunard’s 175 years. Pictures: James Morgan, Steve Dunlop, Andrew Teebay, Gavin Trafford 15 Treasured Islands Key Largo and a Southern Caribbean Cruise

16 days from £2599 £2399 SAVE up to £200pp Departure dates in Nov 15, Jan and Feb 16 Florida and the Caribbean islands enchant with their scenic beauty, laid-back Your cruise includes rhythms, enthralling heritage and the warmth of their welcome. Join us aboard the excellent ms Oosterdam for a sunshine-packed cruise holiday, walking on the soft 3 nights in hotel, 11 nights cruise on pink sands of Barbados, exploring the natural splendour of St Lucia and discovering ms Oosterdam and 1 in fl ight 36 meals: 14 breakfasts (days 2-15) the charm of St Thomas and St Maarten, the tiny island divided in two. Complete the 10 lunches (days 5-14) cruise with a fantastic day on the pristine private island Half Moon Cay. 12 dinners (days 2, 4-14) Varied daytime activities, lectures, talks and evening entertainment on board Key Largo • Everglades National Park • Fort Lauderdale Exclusive Titan cocktail party on board Philipsburg, Saint Maarten • Castries, St Lucia • Bridgetown, Barbados Included excursions and visits: 1 Fort-de-France, Martinique • Basseterre, St Kitts - Nevis - Everglades Safari Park Plus all these benefi ts St Thomas, US Virgin Islands • Half Moon Cay, Bahamas • Miami Titan’s VIP Home Departure Service®† Free connecting fl ights from regional airports Check-in service by Titan staff with porterage Miami 1 ms OOSTERDAM Services of an experienced Titan tour manager Fort Lauderdale Scheduled British Airways direct fl ights 3 Half Moon Cay Best available coaches with experienced drivers Key Largo Hotel porterage (one bag per person) Airport taxes, security charges and Philipsburg fuel surcharges St Thomas UK Air Passenger Duty (APD) Basseterre Fort-de-France Castries Tour ref: JVH

Bridgetown

For full details of the above tour or to request a brochure visit titantravel.co.uk or call free on 0800 988 5178 quoting WOC 19A

†Excludes Scottish islands and Sark. T’s & C’s apply. Calls free from BT landlines, mobiles may vary. Prices are per person based on twin share, are subject to availability, may be subject to change and will be confi rmed upon enquiry. Strike-through price represents full brochure selling price. Availability at all offer prices is limited, and once sold, discounts will reduce or be withdrawn completely.

WOC JVH ad 290515.indd 1 29/05/2015 14:19 16 NEW SHIP WORLD OF CRUISING

Clockwise, from left: Robot barmen in the Bionic Bar. Godmother Emma Wilby and Welsh choir Only Boys Aloud at the christening ceremony. Wonderland restaurant

ANTHEM hits all the right notes (although some of them are not in the right order) NEW SHIP 17 WORLD OF CRUISING

LAURA-JANE PARKER tests Royal Caribbean’s new super-ship to the limit

here I was, wind in my hair, eyes glistening, chin up, staring out from the aft of Anthem of the Seas. It was a beautiful spring morning in TSouthampton and I had roughly 48 hours to explore a brand-new ship, so I was excited. But then, horror of horrors, a thin string of dribble began to escape from the corner of my mouth and my face bumped into a pane of glass as I started to flail for my balance. Everyone around me pointed and laughed. Fortunately, I hadn't made an early stop at one of the many bars and got carried away with some set-sail shots. I was in fact testing the first of many attractions aboard - RipCord by iFLY - a skydiving simulator within which I was trying (and failing) to get to grips with the perfect balanced pose to adopt inside a wind tunnel at sea. U 18 NEW SHIP WORLD OF CRUISING

1,141 feet long 4,180 passengers Facts and figures 136 feet wide (2 per cabin) 28 feet draft 4,905 passengers Depending on who is doing the counting, 22 knots cruising speed (absolute maximum) and what measures they use, Anthem 168,666 gross tons 1,500 crew of the Seas is probably the third largest 2,090 staterooms (34 16 guest decks cruise ship in the world, behind Royal wheelchair accessible) (18 in total) Caribbean’s Allure of the Seas and Oasis of the Seas, and on a par with sister ship Royal Experience, 3-night cruise to Quantum of the Seas. All of them will Zeebrugge (for Bruges) and Le Havre (for move down the pecking order when Clockwise, from Paris) departing Southampton 29 August Royal launches Harmony of the Seas left: The NorthStar from £529 pp in a balcony stateroom. observation pod. next year. Flowrider surf simulator ond Eastern Caribbean, 10 nights from 15 14-night cruise from Southampton to Spain RipCord by iFly January 2016, round-trip from Cape Liberty, sky-diving and the Mediterranean, departing 4 July Bayonne, to Puerto Rico, St Thomas, St simulator. Gigi the from £1,599 for a family of four sharing an giraffe. The SeaPlex Maarten and St Kitts, from £1,836 per interior stateroom. Ports of call: Gibraltar, dodgems couple sharing an inside stateroom. Malaga, Villefranche, Palma de Mallorca, Ibiza and Cadiz. www.royalcaribbean.co.uk/cruise-deals

Anthem promises to deliver a cruise experience like no As far as the tech goes, it's completely and utterly other. Royal Caribbean aims to reinvent cruising, using the woven into the fabric of Anthem. From the moment you latest technology and entertainment to deliver a holiday board the ship you can manage your schedule and plan experience that can't be found anywhere else. These are your time using the Royal iQ app, accessible on smart bold claims, and as someone new to cruising and perhaps phones, on stateroom TVs, and at many screens across slightly younger than an average passenger (I certainly the ship. Passengers pay for drinks, book entertainment can't function in a world without 4G), I felt well placed to and access staterooms using a nifty chip on a watch strap put Anthem to the test. linked to onboard account. NEW SHIP 19 WORLD OF CRUISING

There are even innovative Back To The Future-style of Spectra's Cabaret show - which seemed to be the virtual balcony screens in interior cabins showing a live brilliantly bonkers brainchild of Graham Norton and Lady webcam feed of the view from the ship. Gaga (no, stay with me), making full use of the I can confirm that at sea, the wifi was beyond compare capabilities of the space, transporting you to other worlds (phew). On other ships, it can feel a little like stepping entirely! back in time by a couple of decades, which has put me At the opposite end of the ship is the Royal Theatre, and I'm sure others my age off a cruise holiday. But on showing a production of We Will Rock You which more Anthem you feel very much in the here and now - if not than holds its own against anything you might see in the the future! West End. The performers, band and staging were magnificent. It was so hard to remember as we stood eyond making life on board smoother, technology clapping and singing along to the 'We Are The also plays an impressive and groundbreaking role Champions' encore (just me?) that we were floating out Bin the many attractions. The Two70 entertainment at sea! venue is a tour de force of technology and spectacle. By The cherry on Anthem’s innovation cake is its North Star day, it's a cafe with triple deck height windows giving attraction - essentially a London Eye pod, attached to a breathtaking views of the seascape. At night, those robotic arm on the top deck, gently lifting passengers windows transform into triple height screens, which 300 feet above water level to give unprecedented views work in tandem with six other screens attached to of the ship and the sea. I have honestly never experienced robotic arms to create a visually spectacular backdrop to anything like it, and I don't even enjoy heights! It is one of the entertainment on the bill. the most beautiful and exhilarating things to do on the

I watched the venue come to life for a midnight showing ship, and is not to be missed. U 20 NEW SHIP WORLD OF CRUISING

Above: The Royal Esplanade. Left: Spectra's Cabaret in Two70

splash around in (indoors and outdoors) and a fully- equipped gym, with fitness classes run daily. For the foodies, there is an almost obscene choice of restaurants including recognisable names such as Jamie's Italian and burger bar Johnny Rockets. Highlights for me were the cooked-to-perfection steak at Chops Grille and the many all-you-can-eat buffet selections at breakfast and lunch at the WindJammer cafe (I try to be never knowingly underfed). Finally for the fun lovers there's a wonderful area called the SeaPlex, which has a variety of different setups - it's a basketball court, a circus school and a full size dodgem car ring or roller disco rink! Not all the technology was successful. There was a lot of If all that sounds too much like hard work for a holiday, buzz about the signature Bionic Bar, where two robotic there are several opportunities to just chill. First of these is “bartenders” mix drinks ordered via iPad. After I placed a spa offering a full selection of services by a delightful my order, one of the arms refused to move while the team of staff. I indulged in a seaweed massage treatment other became stuck on a loop of making a drink and which blew the cobwebs away and left me feeling very pouring it away. Something I said? Hopefully this was just zen – blessed relief after the wind tunnel! There are a one-off malfunction, but if this is the future of bars, I several Jacuzzis and my favourite spot for relaxing is a seat think I'll stick to a trusty barkeep to whom I can offload in the adults-only Solarium - an absolutely glorious my troubles. I can't see a robotic arm being much glass-fronted area at the front of the ship with a series of company, but who knows – perhaps the next upgrade tiered pools that each flow into the one below. will include a Siri-esque personality. One for the Does Anthem live up to its self-proclaimed game- suggestion box perhaps? changing technological offering? For me, it’s a definite “yes.” eaving the technology and gadgets to one side, the Gimmicks like the Bionic Bar that may date quickly, but other thing that makes Anthem stand out from the attention to detail on the basics, and the sheer range Lother cruise ships is just the sheer amount of STUFF of interesting things to see, do and experience, make there is to do. In my all-too-brief 48 hours I almost ran Anthem is about as far and away from your traditional myself ragged trying to experience as much as possible cruise ship as you can get, in the best possible way. and still feel I only scratched the surface. It's almost enough to make you forget that the cruise It’s impossible for anyone to get bored, no matter what ship itself is not actually the destination, which some may their interests or how long you are at sea for. For the thrill feel will distract from the many ports and areas of the seekers, there's the iFLY (dribble optional), the climbing world the ship is set to visit. But I for one feel capable of wall, and surfing simulator. For the fitness fanatics there is being able to appreciate both at the same time. Anthem, a running track around the sun deck, several pools to you're not just any ship - and I applaud you for it. YOU VOTE!

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Wave Awards ad_.indd 1 05/06/2015 10:23 22 NEW SHIP WORLD OF CRUISING How family-friendly is the smart ship?

DAVID FISKE grasped a rare opportunity to enjoy a couple of child-free nights on board Anthem of the Seas with the aim of finding out what families can expect

or one summer only, compact area is particularly Independence of the Seas has underwhelming when contrasted F made way for her newer, with the expansive, vibrantly younger sister, Anthem of the Seas. colourful space on-board Families will love SeaPlex® and Independence of the Seas. children will enjoy battling against The two-storey Adventure Ocean® their frazzled parents on the complex offers designated spaces dodgem cars. Kids aged over five for the Aquanauts club (ages three years can ride as a passenger while to five years), Explorers club (ages those taller than 3ft 6in and aged six to eight), and Voyagers club over eight can be let loose behind (ages nine to 11), while teens have the wheel. Bumper cars make way their own separate trendy space for circus skills training sessions, called The Living Room. roller skating, basketball and football There is a lack of entertainment activities in the same versatile space. available for those aged under three Three SeaPods on the upper deck years other than parent- contain tennis, air hockey and accompanied 45-minute Royal foosball tables while a fourth is Babies and Tots play sessions, or the home to Microsoft Xbox® consoles Baby Splash Pool in the H2O Zone for gamers of all ages. that caters for non-toilet trained Daredevils should try Ripcord by children - a rarity on cruise ships. Clockwise, from top: Anthem's pool deck iFly®, a skydiving simulator. Children Entertainment does not get better at dusk. Dodgems in as young as three years can fly – than at Two70 where breath-taking SeaPlex. David prepare for the most adorable and immersive technology-driven tackles the sky-diving simulator photographs. Be warned, teenagers shows will mesmerise adults and and adults look far less photogenic children alike. High-energy thanks to the 100 mph winds! production shows, including We Will North Star is another fun family Rock You the musical, will thrill activity - for those taller than 3ft 6in families. - that gently elevates groups of up to Revolutionary high-speed internet 14 to the dizzying height of 300 feet is available for a fee and is a must for above sea level, affording gadget-laden families whose cabins magnificent views over the length of resemble small branches of Currys. the ship and the ocean beyond. Those with deep pockets and a Time-tested Royal Caribbean family craving for more cabin space should favourites can be found on-board opt for a larger family cabin, a including the FlowRider® surfing palatial suite or a Family Connected simulator (for guests taller than 4ft Stateroom where three cabins 4in), the rock climbing wall (for transform into one living space. guests aged over six), Challengers Located inside the cabins are Arcade for video games, and the WOWband watch-style bracelets. H2O Zone splash area. This neutral, Children will find these more fun to NEW SHIP 23 WORLD OF CRUISING

use than their SeaPass® cards although they can only be used to make on-board purchases and to access staterooms. SeaPass cards are still required to activate the lights in the cabin, to register at the muster drill, and to embark and disembark the ship. Dynamic Dining replaces the traditional Main Dining Room and each night families can choose to dine at The Grande, Chic, American Icon Grill, Silk, or Coastal Kitchen (suite guests only), at a time that suits them. Dynamic Dining Classic, of which 36% of guests booked onto within the first month of it being offered, blends the variety of Dynamic Dining with the familiarity of a set dining time, the same tablemates and the same waiters each night. Chargeable venues are plentiful but could send costs spiralling for families. At Johnny Rockets an Original burger, fries, a slice of apple pie and an Original Shake for four will cost over $43 including gratuities (around £28.50) while a gastronomic flight of whimsy for four at Wonderland will set you back an eye-watering $180 (around £118) plus drinks. Johnny Rockets has lost its nostalgic charm in a switch to a fast food takeaway outlet from an iconic 50’s-style sit-in restaurant. Overall, Anthem of the Seas delivers a radical cruise experience to British families boarding in Southampton but at a cost that will be too much for some. Gadget geeks will love the innovations but traditionalists will miss some of the classic aspects found on older Royal Caribbean ships. It is clear that the Quantum-class ships have established new precedents, particularly in terms of décor, entertainment and technology, but I believe there is still room to better-fuse these with the more traditional aspects Royal Caribbean are renowned for. Perhaps Harmony of the Seas, launching in the Mediterranean in April 2016, will strike a harmonious balance between the two. 24 VIKING CONQUEROR WORLD OF CRUISING

A STAR is born

She might be small - by today's standards - but Viking Star is almost perfectly formed. JOHN HONEYWELL takes a look at the first ocean ship from the company that revolutionised river cruising

t’s two generations or more since creation from the company that has acres of floor-to-ceiling glass Hollywood paired a one-eyed revolutionised river cruising in windows opening to broad decks Kirk Douglas and a bearded Tony Europe with its fleet of 60 Longships, providing real al fresco dining. ICurtis as Viking half-brothers built at the rate of up to 16 a year. The Scandinavian heritage competing for an English throne. It’s the line’s first ocean cruise ship, bequeaths a décor filled with light, I was still in short pants when I fulfilling a dream for Tor Hagen. He blonde woods, woven and knitted watched the film – The Vikings – in was once involved with Royal Viking fabrics with palpable texture, real my local fleapit and I don’t think I Sky, who in the 1970s operated the furs, little touches of greenery in the have ever seen it in the 57 years ships that have since become Fred form of (sadly artificial) grass and since. Even so, I could still hum the Olsen’s Black Watch and Boudicca. moss-covered boulders, and in a three-note signature phrase from A small ship by today’s standards, reminder of Viking triumphs from the theme music today, such was the carrying fewer than 1,000 years gone by, a replica Bayeux impact it had on me. passengers, Viking Star is the first of Tapestry sliced and diced to adorn Those three notes were playing in as many as 10 identical vessels that the stairwells. my head when I spent a few days Hagen plans to build. The main restaurant may be a aboard brand new cruise ship Viking Her design is, quite simply, compromise between style and Star last month. Star is the latest breathtaking. Light and airy, she has utility, but elsewhere on the ship there are some public rooms that a specially-commissioned selection truly set Viking Star apart – and of larger-than-life postcard scenes of streets ahead of any rivals. Norway. Most impressive of all is the he Winter Garden, panoramic Explorers Lounge. Think extending forward from the P&O’s Crow’s Nest or Queen Mary main pool (which has a 2's Commodore Club, and then think Tsliding glass roof) is filled again. This room has windows two with soaring wooden shapes that decks high, looking across the ship’s look like trees; sunlight filters bow. It has an upper level that through a tracery of geometrical appears to float in mid-air and is branches. reached by two flights of glass stairs. The Living Room, which is what Its back wall is adorned with the Hagen calls the ship’s atrium, is three most fascinating collection of decks high with galleries on each artefacts and books. Clockwise from top: Viking Star at anchor, Santorini. Explorers Lounge. side. The imposing staircase leads up There’s a section devoted to Winter Garden. Natural textures. to a giant LED screen cycling through displays relating to adventurer Thor U 26 VIKING CONQUEROR WORLD OF CRUISING

Clockwise from above: Central stairway - more Potemkin Steps than Titanic. Homely furniture in the Living Room. Bookshelves in Explorers Lounge. Library corner

Heyerdahl, and a scale model of movie stars. Two wings at either side Most importantly, the actual Stella Polaris, the 1920’s-built ship of the theatre can be closed off and chairs, sofas, and tables are not the whose design inspired Hagen’s Royal converted into mini-cinemas. mass-produced corporate units that Viking Sky vessels in the 70s. One feature that no other ship has fill hotels and cruise ships around the There’s so much more to admire. is the infinity pool, cantilevered over world. They could have come from Hagen’s attention to detail and the stern. One feature Viking Star any stylish modern home. insistence on perfection are traits does not have is a casino. “Waste of It all sounds almost too good to be inherited by daughter Karine, who space” according to Hagen. true and for most of us it is an has inspired many features around It took me a while to work out why unattainable dream - for now at the vessel. The clean-cut roomy – despite all the Nordic cool and least. Viking Star’s cruises are pretty cabins, the delicatessen named after Scandinavian style – the ship felt so much sold out for the rest of this Mamsen (Hagen’s mother, Karine’s warm and welcoming. And then it year and most of next. grandmother), the pocket-sized hit me. The arrival of sisters Sea and Sky in museum of Viking history, the cool Throughout all these impressive 2016 and 2017 can’t come soon spa with its saunas and snow room, public spaces, the furniture is enough. If Hagen gets his sums lit incongruously with a clever arranged in cosy room-sized groups. right, there could be seven more imitation of a living fire. Far from being one living room, the before the end of the decade. The ship’s theatre is larger and atrium is a collection of individual If that happens, Viking Star will still more impressive than you might rooms where passengers can gather be making as big an impression in expect, and adorned with quirky in family-sized groups without 50 years' time as Douglas and Curtis cushions portraying Scandinavian feeling overwhelmed. did in my childhood.

WHY VIKING STAR COULD CHANGE THE FACE OF CRUISING: Captain Greybeard Page 76

28 TRIP OF A LIFETIME WORLD OF CRUISING Salacious secrets of a special world cruise

For the favoured few, a world cruise can become a habit as addictive as Class A drugs. For most of us, it’s a once-on-a- lifetime dream that might – just might – be within reach after winning the Lottery, or reaching retirement. A change in pension here are many hackneyed clichés in travel, but for legislation this year actually makes it a once the phrase ‘trip of a lifetime’ really does merit more manageable prospect. Forget T its existence. The start of the year is synonymous purchasing a miserably mean annuity; if with chilly days, endless nights and bouts of ‘flu; but for some it means a journey that starts in Southampton there’s enough in the pot, you could grab it where a handful of ships flee plunging thermometers now and splash out on a three-month and embark on a voyage unlike any other. Few words voyage in decadent luxury. Contributing kindle traveller’s imagination more than “world cruising”; few experiences are filled with as much rapture as a Editor GARY BUCHANAN was lucky pan-global voyage, and from January the world could be enough to embark on a world cruise a few your oyster as you become suspended somewhere years ago – and he’s still some way short continuously warm for up to four months. As the 20th century drew to a close I was fortunate of drawing his pension! enough to embark on the ‘Great Tides of Civilisation’ circumnavigation aboard Cunard’s venerable QE2.

Eddy Galeotti / saiko3p /Shutterstock.com Chasing the sun, the frosty Hampshire port was replaced TRIP OF A LIFETIME 29 WORLD OF CRUISING Salacious secrets of a special world cruise

with a litany of destinations that included Montego Bay, that I wonder how teetotallers ever get about at all.” Acapulco, Honolulu, Tahiti, Auckland, Sydney, Hong During my own104-day voyage I gleaned a wealth of Kong, Bangkok, Bombay, Cochin and Dubai. information from my fellow shipmates as Martinis, For many travellers, cruising is not so much a means of shaken by the ship’s gentle motion, left them ever more going somewhere, merely a roundabout way of getting loquacious, the conversation stirred by acerbic back. Nowhere could this be more pertinent than on a observations on fellow passengers. world cruise, and nowhere do What could possibly motivate the lady from Texas to 'Cruising is people have a view of life that’s curtsey in front of the The Queen’s portrait every night? more at sea. Did the gingham-clad habitué of the Queen’s Room not so much a In his book ‘Ninety-Two Days’ really see herself as Sunset Boulevard’s Norma Desmond means of going – a 1934 account of a journey to when she adorned her long tresses with garnish more South America - Evelyn Waugh suitable for highballs than haute couture? Was the angry somewhere as wrote, “Most of my information man at the Crystal Bar so unloved that he couldn’t find a a roundabout way came casually from conversation nice word to say about anyone? These were just a few of in the hotel bar; indeed so much the topics discussed nightly by my cruising comrades of getting back' of one’s help comes in that way during happy hour in the Chart Room Bar. U 30 TRIP OF A LIFETIME WORLD OF CRUISING

Had I embarked on a voyage with a ship of fools or was jump-start their mortal coils into life in the Crystal Bar. this legendary liner a repository for the eccentric and An endless round of cocktail parties hosted by such downright bizarre? Had some higher power brought luminaries as the Captain, Hotel Manager, Cruise together the flotsam and jetsam of God’s waiting room, Director, Chief Engineer and ship’s Doctor were held at or had they been hived off for the winter after a whip- regular intervals in their quarters. For some, invitations to round by uncaring relatives? these social gatherings assumed Holy Grail status, for With a passenger complement running at two-thirds others they were an unnecessary distraction from their capacity there was plenty room in QE2’s lifeboats for an imbibing rituals at a preferred bar stool. unlimited supply of vintage port and petit fours, but I wasn’t planning my escape. After all, I was revelling in my utch courage was overflowing on many a night favourite occupation of people watching and there was when the most unlikely candidates signed up for myriad material on offer to keep me and my fellow D Karaoke. The curious man who embarked in observers amused for yardarms of cocktail hours. Singapore and who sat by the pool playing solitaire by If Evelyn Waugh was concerned about how teetotallers day suddenly found fame, if not fortune, when he gave a got their information he would not have been troubled rendition of Elvis Presley’s Suspicious Minds. His on board this noble Cunarder. Prim Miss Prothero performance brought the audience to their feet, but the wouldn’t consider ordering her lunchtime oxtail soup next chanteuse reduced the assembled throng to until she had quaffed a couple of glasses of fine uncontrollable mirth. Mary, a veteran of 11 world cruises, Champagne in the elegant Queen’s Grill Lounge. A lurid enjoyed assisting the social staff to stuff envelopes with cocktail of the day became the appropriate cocktail party invitations; but her vocal talents didn’t accompaniment to the midday jazz sessions in the even merit a second-class stamp. Her choice of Golden Lion pub, and night owls couldn’t face the day Madonna’s Like a Virgin was not only off-key, it was without a Bloody Mary concocted with enough spice to off-beat, and awfully funny. U

'Had I embarked on a voyage with a ship of fools or was this legendary liner a repository for the eccentric and downright bizarre?'

3232 MAGAZINE TRIP OF A SECTIONLIFETIME WORLDWORLD OF OF CRUISING CRUISING

the World Cruise Society Ball. If ever there was a venue to feed my folkscoping habit, the Yacht Club was unsurpassed. On several nights dapper blades engaged in small talk with elegant blondes I would have thought that there would have been more old enough to be their grandmothers. At the bar, than a few romances during a world cruise, but try as I detachments of gentlemen travelling alone increased in might, I don’t believe I saw one poule de luxe - that size as any pretence of machismo was abandoned. Shrill delicious French term for a ludicrously expensive trollop. screams in polyglot tongues pierced the air as Abba’s However some who were obviously nipped, tucked and Dancing Queen echoed around this stylish room that was lipo-sucked did a pretty good impersonation without transformed into a floating Babel. knowing it, especially after that most sacrosanct event - On another night I headed back to my cabin through

Choose your own world cruise from this selection of forthcoming voyages

Sunday 10 January 2016 will be a countries; including 35 maiden calls. For those with less time on memorable day as all three Cunard www.cunard.co.uk. their hands, Oriana sails on a ships depart their homeport of 50-night Caribbean and American Southampton, each bound for a P&O Cruises have three ships Adventure. Departing on 6 January, 120-day global odyssey. The proud setting sail from Southampton calls include Barbados, New trio will return to Southampton on long voyages next January. Orleans, Charleston, Bermuda, and together on Tuesday 10 May 2016. The perennially popular Aurora Madeira. Flagship Queen Mary 2 will will embark on a 114-night world www.pocruises.com. undertake a full circumnavigation cruise on 2 January. Sailing in a - the first since 2009 - via Cape westbound direction, notable That other stalwart of long voyages Horn, making a rare visit to Easter ports include: Aruba, San Francisco, ideally suited to British tastes, Island. Queen Victoria also offers Honolulu, Auckland, Sydney, Fred Olsen Cruise Lines has a a classic passage around the world Hong Kong, Singapore, Seychelles, 115-night world cruise aboard Black via the Panama Canal, while Queen Mauritius, Cape Town, and the Watch, departing Southampton Elizabeth will sail Down Under and Cape Verde Islands. on 8 January. There’s the chance return through the Suez Canal, to relax in the Caribbean and revel as well as exploring South Africa, Arcadia embarks on her 115-night in the enchanting culture of South Australia, Japan and the Far East. South America and Japan America and the cosmopolitan Each ship will offer overnight stays adventure on 11 January. This atmosphere of Australia's bustling at some of the world’s most iconic voyage chases the sun to Rio de cities. The unique sights and sounds cities, including Rio de Janeiro, Janeiro, Port Stanley in the Falkland of Asia are a perfect precursor to Sydney, Cape Town, Singapore, San Islands, Magellan Straits, Easter ports in India and Egypt. Francisco and Dubai. Island, Tahiti, Auckland, Sydney, Between them, Queen Mary Hong Kong, Xingang, Nagasaki, Boudicca heads off on a 76-night 2, Queen Elizabeth and Queen Osaka, San Francisco, Panama Around Africa and the Indian Victoria will visit 92 ports in 49 Canal, and the Azores. Ocean cruise on 5 January, visiting TRIP OF A LIFETIME 33 WORLD OF CRUISING

the Casino. Here the Baccarat table was just deck-plan in hand, like apparitions on a different orbit. closing as its most loyal supporter - who had Some elderly souls were still clutching their dog-eared gambled every night since New York - aide-memoires as the ship crossed the Bay of Biscay proffered a generous tip in recognition of his shortly before journey’s end. good fortune. At the Blackjack table a But for the legions of regular world cruisers the assured gentleman of indeterminate age and colour surroundings were their portal to a voyage where time is (he had boarded in Miami and had spent each unmeasured and immoderate. sun-kissed minute since soaking up every I relished my remarkable voyage even if my trouser wavelength of solar radiation with the result waistband mysteriously shrank in the heady salt air and that he glowed like a radioactive isotope) was my liver began to plead for a recess. The sensual rapture being ignored by Lady Luck. of sheer slowness freed my psyche as an abundance of In a moment of seaborne bravado I joined images weaved together into an unforgettable tapestry. two renegades from the Yacht Club and we Perfidious as it may seem, I had discovered that the made the fateful decision to master the ultimate success of a world cruise turns on one’s fellow intricacies of the game. What ensued was highly amusing travellers rather than the variety or beauty of the ports of for dealer and observer alike; the unskilled tactics were call. Whilst characters abound and the idiosyncrasies of too much for the experienced player, but the Casino the few intrigue the many, the majority of my confreres in Manager was delighted to take our contributions and this floating behemoth so removed from reality, were the table stayed open for another record-breaking hour. self-assured without being stuffy, self-indulgent without being showy. Many veterans of the ultimate global circuit uring the first few days of a world cruise, go as far as regarding the crew as an extended family. newcomers spend an inordinate amount of time But for one and all, the sign slung above the gangway D getting acquainted with their new home. They into the ship’s mighty hull encapsulated the zeitgeist of are difficult to miss, blank expressions one and all, world cruising, it simply said: ‘Welcome Home’

Choose your own world cruise from this selection of forthcoming voyages

Cape Town, Durban, Mozambique, The 2016 ‘Venetian World Cruise’ before heading to sun-kissed ports. Mauritius, Zanzibar, Seychelles, with Silversea Cruises is a 115- The 1,250-passenger Magellan calls Mauritius, Aqaba, and Sharm el day voyage from Fort Lauderdale at several Caribbean destinations Sheikh; before transiting the Suez departing on 5 January that before transiting the Panama Canal. Canal. will visit 51 destinations in 31 Avoiding American ports, the www.fredolsencruises.com. countries. Silver Whisper will follow compass is set for French Polynesia a westward path through the before landfall in New Zealand. Crystal Cruises have a 108-night Panama Canal to South America A host of Australian ports hove world cruise departing Miami on and the South Pacific. There will be into view before Magellan visits 14 January. After sailing south to the chance to explore Easter Island, Indonesia, Brunei, Malaysia and the Caribbean and transiting the Pitcairn Island, Tahiti, and Bora the Philippines. An overnight stay Panama Canal, Crystal Serenity Bora before sailing to New Zealand, in Hong Kong precedes calls at sails to Ecuador and Peru before Australia and Asia. In addition to Vietnam, Singapore and Thailand. crossing the South Pacific to Easter Hong Kong and Singapore, Bali, Heading west, India, Sri Lanka Island, Tahiti and Rarotonga. Phuket, and mysterious Myanmar and the Maldives offer a relaxing An in-depth exploration of New are on the roster. The odyssey precursor to the Arabian Gulf, Egypt Zealand precedes arrival in Sydney continues to India, Arabia, and and the Suez Canal. After Ashdod, where calls are made en route to Mediterranean hideaways before Piraeus, Malta, Gibraltar and Lisbon Fremantle. Indian Ocean islands concluding in Venice. Magellan returns to Tilbury on 5 beckon before reaching a host of www.silversea.com. May 2017. Nine sectors, ranging ports in South Africa. A crossing of from 27 to 86 nights, are available. the South Atlantic is an overture Cruise & Maritime Voyages has There is also the opportunity for an to vibrant ports in South America announced a Grand Maiden Round extended stay in Australia with an before returning to Miami. The World Cruise in 2017. This epic Astor and Magellan World Cruise www.crystalcruises.co.uk. four-month pan-global odyssey Combination. departs Tilbury on 5 January 2017 www.cruiseandmaritime.com. WORLD OF CRUISING PROMOTION

WIN A WONDERFUL COLOURS OF AUTUMN RIVER CRUISE FOR YOU AND A FRIEND...

Your 9-day cruise experience begins in the beautiful city of Onwards to Cochem, known as “the Pearl of the Moselle.” How to Enter Experience Shearings Bonn, Beethoven’s birthplace, where MPS Rotterdam will be where we will ﬁ nd the 11th Century Reichsburg Castle. Please visit our website moored overnight The next day, passengers will be able to Next, sit back and relax as MPS Rotterdam makes its way to With over 100 years’ experience and departure points www.worldofcruising.co.uk/win-cruise-shearings across the UK, Shearings has an amazing selection of admire the changing colours of the landscape as we sail Koblenz. known for its Gothic churches and the medieval or by email to along the Rhine to Andernach. Moselle Bridge. Explore this charming city before journeying [email protected] perfectly-planned holidays, and our river cruises provide onward to Cologne, famous for its magniﬁ cent cathedral some of the very best holiday experiences. Enjoy a choice We will then travel to Rudesheim, a popular resort in the or send your entry to (pictured). It will then be time to disembark the MPS of six inviting ships, each offering tailored river cruises that German wine-producing region, and there will be an FREEPOST PLUS Rotterdam to begin the journey home. guarantee the Shearings Experience. opportunity to explore the 15th Century Drosselgasse street RTHB-XTHS-KBUT World of Cruising while we are here. The lucky winner of this inclusive river cruise will travel by Allow us to take you to fascinating ports of call, complete 115 Sydney Road luxury coach from the UK to join MPS Rotterdam in Bonn, London N10 2ND with extraordinary excursion programmes and the services and will enjoy complimentary beer, wine, and soft drinks on of a Shearings tour manager, as well as our friendly, the cruise during lunch and dinner each day. Question experienced river cruise staff. Not only this, but you’re also From which city does the Colours of Autumn River Cruise sure to love travelling with like-minded holidaymakers. depart? On many of our ships, you can enjoy entertainment, music and dancing, and you’ll be thrilled with the sumptuous breakfasts, lunches and dinners served on-board. Travelling along the waterways of Holland and Belgium, as well as the Rhine, Moselle, Neckar, Danube and Elbe rivers, there’s so much to be discovered with a Shearings river cruise…

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The river cruise prize is operated by Shearings Holidays and is a 2-person cabin onboard the MPS Rotterdam travelling on the Colours of Autumn departure on any one of the following dates: 26th September, 3rd, 10th or 17th October 2015. The prize also includes return luxury coach travel. The winner will also receive complimentary beer, wine & soft drinks during lunch and dinner during the sailing. The prize winner is responsible for taking out holiday insurance and for paying all gratuities while on board. Prize winner must sail in order to take advantage of the offer. No name changes allowed. Prize cannot be transferred to any other holiday and has no cash or refund value. Booking must be made before the 31/07/15 and travel is on one of the sailing dates above. All details correct at time of print. Competition closes on 19/07/15. E&OE.

WIN A RIVER CRUISE WIN A RIVER CRUISE WIN A RIVER CRUISE WIN A RIVER CRUISE WIN A RIVER CRUISE WIN A RIVER CRUISE WIN A RIVER CRUISE WIN A RIVER CRUISE WIN A RIVER CRUISE WIN A RIVER CRUISE WORLD OF CRUISING PROMOTION

WIN A WONDERFUL COLOURS OF AUTUMN RIVER CRUISE FOR YOU AND A FRIEND...

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WILLIAM DAVID sets out to follow the sun. He might have missed the moment of totality, but the ship did not disappoint

he chance to view a total eclipse of the sun does not happen very often. Nor does an opportunity T to travel on the world’s oldest cruise ship. So when both came along at the same time, I couldn’t resist! Now operated by Cruise & Maritime Voyages, the MV Azores began life back in 1948. Originally the Stockholm, she was later sold to the East German government, renamed the Völkerfreundschaft (‘Peoples’ Friendship’) and spent several years providing cruises to communist countries. On one such voyage to Havana she almost became embroiled in the Cuban Missile Crisis. At the last moment President Kennedy, suspecting her of carrying arms to Castro, decided the risk of torpedoing her rudder was too high, and she sailed on, unharmed. Little, if anything, remains above the waterline of the original ship. She may not be in the same luxury class as the latest ocean-going leviathans, but neither is she a stark Cold War relic: the public areas including the Sirenes bar, Lotus Buffet and Olissipo Restaurant are all well- presented and comfortable with "Don't tell my modern fittings. None felt intimidatingly large, which is not wife - but this surprising on a ship with only 550 ship - I'm in love passengers – in fact you’ll probably be on nodding terms with most of with her" your shipmates within a week! Entertainment is provided in the main Calypso Show Lounge (large enough to accommodate around 250 passengers). Despite happy hour offers, the separate nightclub and disco bar remained quiet until bursting into life just before midnight as the younger passengers (and crew) arrived. Billed as the Solar Eclipse and Northern Lights cruise, our itinerary began in Avonmouth and included Dublin, Iceland, the ‘big event’ at sea on the 20 March, followed by visits to the Faroes, Shetland, Orkney and finally Lewis in the Outer Hebrides. The atmosphere on board was very friendly: every crew member appears genuinely to love their job – an ECLIPSE 37 WORLD OF CRUISING Oldest cruise ship afloat is not to be eclipsed

important quality. The cabins were comfortable if not over-generous; ours had large windows, ample wardrobe storage and the usual en-suite facilities, but we found quite a variation between cabins of the same size and quality rating. Meals in the Olissipo Restaurant were of the highest quality and the service impeccable. Every dinner consisted of at least five courses, concentrating on quality rather than quantity, so we were never over-full. Clockwise from top: Azores berthed in Some of the vegetarian options looked so tasty and when Orkney. Iceland's we tried them we were impressed; the fish courses never Strokkur Geyser. disappointed. There was a full range of cereals, fruit and The neolithic village of Skara Brae, on cooked breakfast, whilst lunch could be a brief self- Orkney service affair in the Lotus Buffet or more relaxed waiter- service in the Olissipo with three or even four courses. The entertainment was well-received, playing to full houses every evening, with excellent singing, costumes, lighting and sound. Cruise Director Tony Parkin introduced a variety of acts of which the Abba and Rat Pack tributes, as well as We Will Rock You (music from Queen) and ‘Songs from the Musicals’ were stand-out. Most passengers came prepared for the cold windy weather you’d expect at this time of year. Guest lecturer U 38 ECLIPSE WORLD OF CRUISING

Professor Roger Pickard’s talks on eclipses, the Aurora Borealis and other related subjects were interesting, and delivered with a certain humour, but I got the feeling that many present would have appreciated more detail. The other guest lecturer was David Roper, aka Bob Bradshaw, once of Coronation Street, who regaled his audiences with tales of stage and screen. In Dublin, our first port of call, there was a good variety of excursions, and for those already familiar with the city there was a frequent shuttle service. This would be the only occasion when we ‘did our own thing’, visiting Trinity College and the Guinness Storehouse – a comprehensive sensory assault of light, sound and taste, where we enjoyed a pint of freshly-pulled dark nectar whilst making the most of panoramic views from the Gravity Bar at the top of the building. Two days at sea followed, the Azores moving around a To the Med for £799 bit in rough seas, and with a limited choice of distractions, compared to more modern vessels. It will be August 2026 before the next total eclipse Passengers prepared to brave the night cold enjoyed visible from Europe, by which time, Azores may fine views of the Northern Lights, and the ship’s well have retired. Sample itinerary later this photographers provided good quality prints for those year: 17 September fly-cruise from Livorno, Italy, who preferred to stay warm. It really was a spectacular and visiting Civitavecchia (for Rome) Santorini, display. Mykonos, Kusadasi, Samos, Athens, Katakolon, In Iceland we took the popular Golden Circle Corfu, and Venice. From £799 pp for 11 nights. excursion. Thingvellir is fascinating, being both the www.cruiseandmaritime.com ancient seat of the Icelandic parliament (the oldest in

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The Cruise & Maritime Voyages Cruise Collection for 2016/17 is on sale now! Scenic cruising holidays from a choice of eight UK ports offering a traditional British cruise experience aboard our smaller to mid-sized cruise liners - Magellan, Marco Polo, Astor and Astoria. • Early booking ‘Buy One Get One Free’ offers* • Fjordland cruises from just £429 per person • Great deals for singles - save up to 50% • Group benefits for 12 adults or more For a brochure, order online at • Magellan’s Grand Maiden Round the World Cruise 2017 www.cruiseandmaritime.com/brochures • Premium voyage service to and from Australasia • CMV Signature River Cruises – river cruises of distinction Call 0844 998 3852 or see your travel agent.

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From Azores to Astoria

Azores is to be re-named Astoria when she completes her 2015 UK summer season, and in March and April 2016 will operate a two-month season of ex-UK cruises before being chartered to French operator Rivages du Monde. Under the new flag, she will sail 14 cruises to northern Europe, Greenland, the Adriatic and Mediterranean, from Le Havre, Dunkirk, Ostend, Bordeaux and Marseille. CMV commercial director Chris Coates said: “We have been experiencing strong demand for Azores 2015 ex-UK regional summer programme. The introduction of Magellan to the fleet, which in 2016, will be operating year round, will enable Marco Polo to also be deployed regionally for part of the 2016 programme bolstering capacity and supporting Astoria’s spring season. This will increase year on year UK market capacity to close to 70,000.”

the world) and sitting astride the still-diverging junction of the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates – tremendously atmospheric. The geyser of Strokkur blew a great shower of steam every five minutes and the Guldfoss waterfall was like a miniature Niagara. But oh was it cold! Thank goodness for the warming lunch at the Geyser Hotel! By the time we returned to the ship it was blowing a hooley - so bad was the weather that the Fact file Captain decided to delay our departure by six hours. Gratuities: Cruise & Maritime recommend a he solar eclipse itself was predictably figure of £5.00 per passenger per day to cover disappointing – cloudy and windy! The captain did all gratuities. This is automatically added to T his best in mid-ocean to find a gap in the clouds, passengers’ on-board accounts with the option passengers crowded on the upper decks hoping to see to pay crew members direct if preferred. something, but apart from the briefest glimpse just before totality, the sun maintained its modesty and the Coffee and tea are provided free from 0600 to protective glasses issued free of charge remained 2200 in the Lotus Buffet. Draught beer is around unused. At the time of total eclipse all went eerily dark for £3.50 a pint, cocktail of the day usually just over around two minutes – which, if you’ve never £3.00 and most wine in the restaurant varies experienced it before, is a very odd sensation in mid- from £20 - £30 a bottle. morning. At least everyone enjoyed the atmosphere but they were keen to get back into the warm indoors once Cost of laundering a shirt or blouse: £2.75 the daylight returned! Visits to the Faroes, Orkney and the Outer Hebrides Internet charges: followed (the weather was too stormy for us to land in Pay as you go – 60p Per Minute Shetland). Under-visited, these fascinating islands were 250 minutes package – £75.00 just as worthwhile as many a far-flung paradise. 100 minutes package – £42.50 The verdict? I’ll leave that to Captain Antonio Morais: Initial activation fee of £3.95 “Don’t tell my wife – but this ship – I’m in love with her!” 40 LIFE ON BOARD WORLD OF CRUISING

elizabeth philips

Elizabeth Phillips was pictured in the last At what stage did you decide that you wanted issue of World of Cruising presenting a to pursue a career at sea? posy to Her Majesty the Queen after the It was not until I was doing my A levels and told to make some concrete decisions about my future and what I christening of P&O Cruises’ Britannia. wanted to do after school that I started to consider it as a Now we find out more about the 23-year- career. I spoke to various people with backgrounds in the Merchant Navy and attended an open day to gain more old who is the ship's youngest deck officer information about the industry.

What are the entry requirements for a Carnival UK cadetship? You are from the Isles of Scilly. Has the sea There are different academic levels at which you can start always been in your family’s blood? a cadetship depending on which route you would like to Going back several generations on my father’s side, my take. The entry process for Carnival UK involves an great-great grandfather was the Captain of a sailing ship interview, tests and an assessed group communication and a lifeboat man in the RNLI. After growing up in the exercise. The cadetship is over a three-year period and is islands my father went to sea as a cadet, serving mainly comprised of both college time at a nautical college onboard cargo ships. learning all the theoretical knowledge of navigation, After eight years in the Merchant Navy, he continued to stability, cargo, meteorology and time at sea gaining work on the sea running a passenger boat in and around practical experience on the company ships. The final the islands for the Boatman’s Association for 28 years. In assessment at the end of the three years is an oral addition to this he has been working part time as a local examination with the maritime and coastguard agency. pilot since 1988, bringing in the ever-increasing number of passenger ships, landing craft, small coasters to the Everyone has to start at the bottom, so to islands. speak. What was your least favourite job as a cadet? What was life like growing up in an island The phrase “its character building” wore pretty thin community? towards the end of the cadetship, this is usually what I feel very fortunate to have grown up in a place like accompanies the less exciting, mundane tasks. As you Scilly. With such a small population and isolated from the already mentioned everyone has to work their way up, mainland, there is a very strong a community feel where this is something that is particularly true with a career at everyone knows everyone. My sisters and I were given sea as experience is everything. From a safety or much more freedom to go out roam around, explore and management perspective if you are going to be dishing play. out these tasks, it is only right that you have the As an adult working away, the community feel in the underlying knowledge of what it actually entails. islands gives me a sense of belonging and security with people always asking my parents what part of the world How much training do you still have to do? I’m in or how my sisters are getting on. It’s a very At present I have my Officer of the Watch Unlimited comforting feeling that while I’m away Scilly will Certificate of Competency and will shortly return to always be there for me to come back to. No college to study and obtain my Chief Mate Unlimited. matter where I end up in the world Scilly will Following this I will need to accumulate another 18 always be home. months sea time before I am eligible to sit the final oral examination with the Martimie and Coastguard Agency to become qualified as a Master Mariner.

"My grandfather was captain of a sailing ship and a lifeboat man in the RNLI” LIFE ON BOARD 41 WORLD OF CRUISING

What are your interests away from ships? I make the most of having long leave periods by spending part of my time catching up with friends and family at home, enjoying the chilled out relaxing pace of life in the islands. For part of my leave each year I try to go travelling to explore different cultures in different parts of the world.

What was your reaction when you discovered you were to be posted to Britannia? I was excited to have the opportunity to experience the shipyard and looked forward to the challenges and learning curve that bringing a new ship into service would involve.

What are your memories of the day of the christening, and your role in presenting a posy to The Queen? With all the final preparations for the naming ceremony and bringing the ship into service it was a very exciting and busy time. The memories that stand out include polishing our shoes on the bridge the morning of the ceremony, watching and cheering as the champagne bottle smashed against the ship’s side, lining up with the other deck officers as we greeted the Queen and of course presenting Her Majesty with the posy.

Favourite aspect of life at sea? Watching the sun rise over a different horizon every day, and looking forward to the experiences, challenges and variety that the day will bring.

Least favourite? Saying goodbye to family and friends at the start of a three-month contract.

Favourite destination around the world? The most beautiful places include the Norwegian fjords with the most stunning scenery. Cabo San Lucas in Mexico and the west coast of America is where I’ve seen the most wildlife including whales, sea turtles and sea birds. The best beaches would probably be between the Bahamas and the Cayman islands.

What does the future hold? The next step in my career involves me going back to college this summer and obtaining my Chief Mate’s ticket; on completion of this I will be returning to sea to gain more experience and work my way up the ranks. As for my long term ambitions, l can see myself wanting to spend more time at home in the not too distant future, therefore I will be looking to diversify into one of the many shore-based sectors within the maritime industry. 42 COLUMNISTS WORLD OF CRUISING

Cruisetalk From the best in the business

EDWINA LONSDALE ANDY HARMER Managing Director of UK and Ireland Director Mundy Cruising, the of the Cruise Lines UK’s oldest cruise-only International retailer, selling luxury Association (CLIA) cruises since 1970

The reason I chose my financial advisor was because he While out shopping recently, you may have been met told me ‘our job is to ensure that the last cheque drawn with a rather unusual sight, as Norwegian Cruise Line on your account – the one to the undertaker – took to the shopping malls of the UK to showcase some bounces’. OK I think Michael Bloomberg said it too… of the amazing entertainment that is available on their but I still like the sentiment. cruise ships in 2015. On board shows have reached Our long-held mantra is to seize the day - who knows another level of late: at the launch of Anthem of the what the future may hold. So rather than pursuing the Seas, guests, including myself, were entertained by a distant prize (‘when I retire I will take that trip’, ‘we can performance of the hit West End show ‘We Will Rock do that when the children leave home’, ‘I’ll save that You’. Those taking a cruise holiday on her sister ship, until I have no family responsibilities’), work out your Quantum of the Seas, can enjoy Mamma Mia! - priorities and DO IT NOW! another Broadway production brought to the high seas What’s round the corner? It could be ill health, by Royal Caribbean. bereavement, or simply a resigned winding down. As viewers of The X-Factor will tell you, Simon Cowell Whatever awaits, we think you should be careful not to is not a great fan of cruise ship entertainment – he end up with regrets (or at least too few to mention) believes that this area of product delivery is stuck - so take the chance to do the things you want to do somewhere in the ‘60s or ‘70s, when cruising was while you still can. more ‘Love Boat’ than ‘Smart Ship’. Here are my top tips to help you seize the day in the But how times have changed on cruise ships - there best possible style! are amazing activities for all ages, mouth-watering I’ll bet you have some challenging activities on your dining experieces, accommodation the style and list: ride a camel in the Arabian deserts when you cruise quality of which can easily match, if not better, that the coast of Oman, go up in a balloon over the offered by hotels and, of course, worldwide extraordinary plain of Bagan in Burma from a river destinations. But perhaps it's entertainment that has cruise on the Ayeyarwady, or snorkel with sea lions changed most. and manta rays in the busy waters of the Galapagos The breadth of venues and styles of entertainment Islands. alone on cruise ships today is mind boggling, with each Have you ever seen the Northern Lights? Take a cruise line carefully presenting entertainment they Hurtigruten coastal cruise in Northern Norway. What know will appeal to their guests. about an active volcano? Watch the glow as you sail You can dine while watching a show take place past magnificent Stromboli at night en route for Sicily. around you, or pop into the theatre for a performance Or how about Australia's Staircase to the Moon? Iconic from a guest performer such as Sting. There are man-made wonders are within easy reach: visit the entertainment tie-ins with brands such as Hasbro, Great Wall on a cruise to China and Japan, disembark in Hairspray, Cats and Strictly Come Dancing, or jazz Lima to visit Machu Picchu, travel to the Pyramids when sessions in piano bars. Or, if you prefer, join in with a you call at Alexandria, or fly to the Taj Mahal from pub quiz or TV game show - there is little doubt that Mumbai. cruising offers it all. Learn to play bridge, cook a gourmet meal, speak a Today’s cruise ships are amazing pieces of technology new language or dance a tango. Shipboard, all these and perhaps this can best be seen within the skills can be at your fingertips. See lemurs in entertainment venues, where innovation knows no Madagascar, Komodo Dragons on Komodo Island, bounds. This is matched by professional artistes from Polar bears in the Arctic, or breaching whales in Alaska. across the world, who ensure guests have an amazing OK my point is not so subtle, but I hope it’s well made. time. Everything is at your fingertips when you choose to So, my recommendation is to ignore Simon Cowell - a cruise – all you need is your personal happiness/cruise cruise holiday is not always just about the destination, consultant to make your dreams come true. it's also about great on board experiences!

44 RIVER CRUISING WORLD OF CRUISING

GARY BUCHANAN runs a critical eye over S.S. Maria Theresa, the latest addition to Uniworld’s cruise fleet, and finds a stately schloss afloat on Europe’s great rivers Grand Tour of a floating castle Grand Tour of a floating castle

or a river cruise company that defies convention, Uniworld’s newest vessel is a true aristocrat. FRenowned for their fleet of boutique boats that boast opulent exuberance, the company is in a league of its own. The signature décor of each vessel is daring and colourful, and when S.S. Maria Theresa was introduced in March the assembled industry observers were left searching for superlatives. Uniworld’s European fleet consists of 12 fully-owned and operated ships, all of which overflow with design pretension. Indeed the last three new-builds have been so mould-breaking that they have been given the designation S.S. – which stands for ‘super ship’. No one who witnessed the interiors of the 150-passenger S.S. Maria Theresa, resplendent with antique mirrors, gold-leaf detailing and custom furniture from around the world, was left in any doubt this was indeed a paragon. Uniworld’s vessels are individuals; interiors are the antithesis of minimalism, each is unique, and every deck showcases an eclectic mix of refined taste that spans the lexicon of decadent design. The collaboration U Historic Cities along the Danube Including two nights in picturesque Prague

10 days from £1849 £1699 SAVE up to £150pp Departure dates in July 2015

Sail through four enchanting countries along the delightful Danube River - Austria, Your cruise includes Germany, Hungary and Slovakia, exploring historical cities along the way. Discover imperial Budapest and beautiful Bratislava with its Baroque and Gothic buildings. 2 nights in hotel and 7 nights cruise on Sailing the spectacular Wachau Valley you will discover cultural Vienna and at the Royal Crown 23 meals: 9 breakfasts (days 2-10) heart, the charming town of Dürnstein. Your journey will continue to the sleepy town 6 lunches (days 2-7) of Melk with its impressive Benedictine abbey before continuing to the elegant and 8 dinners (days 1-8) delightful Linz. We have combined this wonderful Royal Crown cruise, a favourite Included excursions and visits: 2 with Titan clients, with a two-night stay in the picturesque city of Prague, situated - City tour of Bratislava - City tour of Vienna with a visit to a on the Vltava River. traditional coffee house Plus all these benefi ts: Budapest • Bratislava • Vienna • Dürnstein • Melk • Linz • Passau • Prague Titan’s VIP Home Departure Service®† Free connecting fl ights from regional airports Check-in service by Titan staff ROYAL CROWN Services of an experienced Titan tour manager 2 Prague Scheduled British Airways direct fl ights Porterage (one bag per person) Airport taxes, security charges and Passau fuel surcharges Linz Dürnstein SLOVAKIA Vienna Port taxes River Danube Melk Bratislava UK Air Passenger Duty (APD) ubub AUSTRIA Tour ref: JNP Budapest HUNGARY

For full details of the above tour or to request a brochure visit titantravel.co.uk or call free on 0800 988 5178 quoting WOC 19B

WOC JNP ad 290515.indd 1 29/05/2015 14:23 RIVER CRUISING 47 WORLD OF CRUISING

Fact file

Maria Theresa is sailing the 14-night European Jewels itinerary along the Rhine, Main and Danube between Amsterdam and Budapest this summer. Unforgettable destinations include Making my way along Hofburg Deck (the uppermost Vienna, the Wachau Valley, Passau, Regensburg, Nuremberg, of the three accommodation decks) I stopped at one of Wurzburg, Frankfurt, and Cologne – and countless UNESCO the ten 305 sq ft suites. Each has its own unique colour World Heritage sites along the route. Some departures are scheme with silk wall fabrics as well as antique mirrors. available with no single supplements. Fares from £3,599 There’s a balcony with a window that drops at the flick include all meals, unlimited drinks on board, gratuities, and 12 of a switch; period cabinets conceal mini-bars, and of shore excursions. PLUS, Titan VIP Home Departure Service to course there are lavishly-appointed bathrooms with deliver you to the airport, direct flights, and transfers. shower and bath. There are two butlers attending Call 0800 988 5178 occupants of suites. Every detail has been considered to www.titantravel.co.uk enhance the guest experience, whether it is in the 410 sq ft Next April, Maria Theresa will operate a Royal Suite or the staterooms 9-night Tulips and Windmills cruise from that range from 162 to 194 sq ft. Amsterdam to Antwerp, along miles of At the aft end of this deck is the scenic canals and visiting attractions such Bar du Leopard, decorated in as the Van Gogh Museum and Keukenhof muted leopard print and Gardens. Fares from £1,699 include all dove-grey velour seating. meals on board, unlimited drinks, eight Opposite the bar is the mosaic- shore excursions, Home Departure Service, encrusted pool enclosed in flights and transfers. auto-frosting glass for privacy. Call 0800 988 5178 “We took inspiration for this www.titantravel.co.uk room from our hotel at Bushmans Kloof - our wilderness retreat in the Western Cape,” says Toni, who pointed out the between Uniworld and the Red snow leopard on the wall above Carnation Hotel Collection design the pool as well as the bronze team has been a masterstroke. snow leopard in the corner of the “My inspiration for this floating room. There’s a dedicated galley palace came from the castles of for when this room becomes a the Rhine,” says Toni Tollman, lead private dining venue for 36, as designer and the daughter of Bea well as a small outdoor terrace and Stanley Tollman – head of the dynasty that created with tables. Uniworld and the multi-award winning South African Descending to Bavarian Deck, I saw the petite Lipizzan Red Carnation hotel group. “Our aim was to completely Cinema and Viennese Café - a recreation of the Sacher transport passengers back to the decadent era of Hotel in Vienna. The sumptuous Baroque Restaurant on European grand style.” Schönbrunn Deck serves some of the finest food on Photographs Toni took when she visited the historic Europe’s rivers. Breakfast and lunch are selected from castles that stand sentinel along the banks of the Rhine the buffet while dinner reflects culinary virtuosity at provided inspiration for the ship’s interiors. every turn. The focal hub of the vessel is the sumptuous Habsburg Salon with a Watteau-style ceiling and uilt at the Dutch shipyard of Gierlien van Tiem hand-painted murals depicting 18th century Austrian – which also produced the S.S. Antoinette in rural life. The Baroque ambiance is enhanced with B2011 and the S.S. Catherine in 2014 – it was period furniture hand-made by artisans in Lyon and appropriate that the naming ceremony for S.S. Maria Venice. Theresa was performed by Princess Anita Von Forward of this room is the Bohemian Terrace – a Hohenberg, great-granddaughter of Archduke Franz perfect vantage point by day and night. Ferdinand; and direct descendant of Maria Theresa - At the conclusion of the tour Toni summed up her mother of Marie Antoinette. interpretation of this iconic river vessel, “The only My tour started in the lobby, which is dominated by a difference between staying in an 18th century 10-foot high original oil painting of Maria Theresa Habsburg Castle and the S.S. Maria Theresa is the illuminated by a stunning Venetian chandelier. “We’ve height of the ceiling – a restriction that is imposed by possibly improved the cachet of 18th century Baroque the bridges of the rivers we navigate.” design,” said Toni as she ascended the sweeping S.S. Maria Theresa will sail on a variety of Uniworld’s wrought-iron staircases to draw attention to the trompe routes including the ‘European Jewels’ itinerary from l’oeil ceiling. “It took 14 craftsmen over three weeks to Budapest to Amsterdam through the heart of Maria create the effect I was looking for.” Theresa’s vast empire. 48 RIVER CRUISING WORLD OF CRUISING

Clockwise, The Royal Panorama Suite is the largest on any European river ship. Electric-powered cycles are available for passengers. Scenic Jasper's godmother, Kathy Lette. The River Cafe. Dinner in the Portobello restaurant RIVER CRUISING 49 WORLD OF CRUISING

Boldly going to infinity & beyond

BRIDGET McGROUTHER takes an out-of-this-world voyage on Scenic’s latest space ship

space ship seems an odd than the Royal’s whirlpool bath, term for something that but we shared such suite luxuries A doesn’t leave our as the L’Occitane toiletries, HD atmosphere and is not a UFO. Yet TV, Mac mini system, futuristic this is the description Scenic used for alarm clock and very slick their latest river ship – the all-new, wardrobes. all-singing and all-dancing Scenic Best of all, (in addition to the Jasper. fully all-inclusive meals, shore It was in Amsterdam rather excursions, flights, transfers, than on Mars that I boarded the complimentary Wi-Fi, tips, drinks 11th vessel in the Australian- and a mini bar that was magically owned, state-of-the-art fleet restocked at no extra charge), (re-branded now as Scenic rather we had our own private butler. I than Scenic Tours). This don’t think that was ever 169-passenger space ship is included on the Starship indeed quite roomy, particularly Enterprise. in the plush Royal Panorama If – like me – you find it Suite. At a generous 44m², Scenic awkward to ask a butler to boasts it is the ‘largest panorama unpack your case or run a bath, suite on Europe’s rivers.’ Chris actually pre-empted our Even without electric needs when we arrived on a adjustable beds, our more late-night flight, after dinner modest 19m² Balcony Suite was was over. We welcomed his still very stylish, especially as it suggestion of room service and a featured the hi-tech ‘sun short time later, he delivered our lounge’. At the first glimpse of hot meals along with two large blue sky, a glass partition can be glasses of wine. Not a bad way to swept aside and the window begin our voyage to explore new swished open to reveal an worlds! instant balcony. The excellent food and friendly There was also space for a service were indeed highlights of compact shower room rather our ‘Dutch Sights and Belgium U 2016 RIVER CRUISE CRUISES FROM ONLY NOW ON £1,495 SALE PER PERSON

WHAT MAKES US DIFFERENT? When we say all-inclusive, that’s what we mean. At Scenic we celebrate the art of wonder through travel, but we’re more than just a travel company: we’re pioneers of all-inclusive luxury. That is what drives us, cruise after cruise, journey after journey. Our new 2016 Europe River Cruise brochure is out now. Take advantage of our 2016 exclusive launch offers and save a guaranteed £1,500 per couple.

Enrich Tailormade Space-Ships Our Journey Designers Our exclusive With the largest ships have handpicked Tailormade GPS touring on the rivers, ingenious and created a range devices and e-bikes balcony suites and a of included unique make independent staff-to-guest ratio of experiences that will be exploring in your 1:3, Scenic deliver the amongst the highlights destination for the day ultimate river cruise of your cruise. an effortless pleasure. experience.

Freechoice Butler Dining & Beverages There are a vast range From a nightly You will enjoy unlimited of activities and turndown to a laundry complimentary drinks sightseeing experiences concierge service for during your time on for you to choose from, all guests, your butler board, as well as so you only see what is here to make your diverse, seasonal and you want to see during Scenic experience extra regional dining in a your time ashore. special. range of venues.

Request your 2016 brochure at scenic.co.uk, call FREE 0808 102 0180 or visit your local travel agent

Terms and Conditions: Price of £1,495 is based on two people sharing a Cat.E Standard Suite on the 8-day Treasures of the Rhine cruise departing on 9 November 2016 and includes the saving of £1,500 per couple and is subject to availability at the time of booking. Supplements apply for upgraded accommodation and suites with balconies. Butler services vary. Offers valid for new bookings only made between 6 June and 31 July 2015. All drinks are included on-board except for a very small number of rare, ﬁ ne and vintage wines, champagnes and spirits. A 1.5% credit card charge (1.95% AMEX) may apply when booking. Prices correct at time of going to print (May 2015). For full itineraries and booking conditions, please visit www.scenic.co.uk From left: Desserts in the RIVER CRUISING 51 River Cafe. Dining al fresco WORLD OF CRUISING on the Riverview Terrace

Excellent food and friendly service were a feature of 'space ship' Scenic Jasper

Delights’ cruise, where guests Fact file can dine in up to six venues. The ‘Dutch Sights and Belgian Champagne, cocktails, spirits, soft buffet breakfasts and lunches in Delights’ luxury eight-day, drinks, tea and coffee available on the Crystal Dining-room were all-inclusive river cruise from the board all day, every day. always delicious, as were the à la Netherlands to Belgium. Ports of Laundry: small charge per item carte dinners. call: Amsterdam, Antwerp, Veere, eg €7 each for a dress or shirt. I especially enjoyed the Italian Rotterdam/Kinderdijk, Volendam/ Wi-Fi: complimentary and cuisine in Portobello Restaurant, Edam/Hoorn, Keukenhof Gardens, available throughout the ship. although my favourite dinner of Amsterdam. All-inclusive prices Spa Treatments: 30 min River all was the exquisite Table La start from £1,695 pp on a 2016 Breeze facial for €39; a 30 min Rive, an invitation-only six- river cruise. Visit www.scenictours. back and shoulder massage, €39. course extravaganza reserved co.uk or call 0808 102 2508 (free Hair styling: Shampoo and blow- exclusively for guests on the from landlines). dry, €27 Euros for men, €34 Euros Diamond Deck. Each dish was for women. sublime, accompanied by a In 2015, Scenic Jasper will sail Free extras: 24/7 butler service well-chosen selection of fine eight-day Gems of the Danube including room service and wines from our maître d’. from Nuremberg to Budapest and shoeshine. All sightseeing Sadly, although we did once 15-day Jewels of Europe from excursions are included, and every make use of the late breakfast at Amsterdam to Budapest. cruise has a once-in-a-lifetime the River Café, we never got the Scenic Enrich experience. No chance to try out the al fresco Gratuities: All included in the hidden extras: all return flights, Riverview Terrace barbecue and fare. airport taxes and airport and weren’t brave enough to take a Drinks: Unlimited wines, beers, hotel transfers included. dip in the new outdoor Vitality Pool on the Sun Deck, even though the bubbly water was as warm as a bath. working mill, being shown how guided tour… e did, however, boldly to make clogs, and stopping off Yet the best was yet to come as go to new frontiers, with at a cheese farm. The mature Old we were invited to meet the very Wa daily ScenicChoice Willig tasted much better than friendly and hospitable locals selection of excursions that included its name suggested, especially who prepared a home-cooked guided walking and cycling tours with a spot of Wasabi mustard. Dutch dinner in the awe- using the bikes on board. On hearing In Antwerp our guide told inspiring Oosterkerk church. they were electric, there was almost quirky stories as we marvelled at What better way to ‘seek out a stampede to sign up (that the beautiful gabled buildings new life and new civilizations’ apparently doesn’t usually happen on medieval squares. The walk than to chat and laugh over a with the average 55+ age of ended at a statue of the city’s shared meal with those who live international passengers). No most famous son, Rubens; there? wonder the Dutch joke about strange that from one angle, the Back on board, the ‘psychopaths on cycle paths’! artist’s thumb looked like he was conversation kept flowing as the There was no such rush for the carrying a phaser gun. drinks were served from the gym, I may add, though it was Highlight of the cruise was the complimentary bar. Nightly tricky to get a booking at the Scenic Enrich experience at the entertainment included music spa, once word spread about the quaint harbour of Hoorn. from the resident pianist/ DJ and excellent Indonesian masseuse. Dribbling over kibbeling (a local the funniest-ever crew show. In From Amsterdam we chose to delicacy of deep-fried cod) at a fact, the crew were all stars, and visit pretty Zaanse Schans, with fish ’n’ chip shop and popping in Scenic Jasper’s mission to provide its historic windmills. It was a for light refreshment at a cosy an out-of-this-world voyage was Triple Dutch treat - exploring a pub was certainly my kind of certainly accomplished. 52 RIVER CRUISING WORLD OF CRUISING Paddling Princesse

Loire Princesse has no problem passing under the 3km span of the soaring Saint Nazaire Bridge. By JOHN HONEYWELL Below: The ship's lounge bar

t’s the ambition of every river cruise operator to find new waterways, and to whisk passengers away from Ithe well-travelled paths of the Rhine, the Danube, the Douro, the Mekong, and the Mississippi. Trouble is, nobody is building new rivers – nor are they likely to. So the solution has to be to build vessels that can boldly go where no boat has gone before. That is the solution chosen by CroisiEurope to enable them to ply cruises on the Loire. It might be the longest river in France – at 1,012km against a mere 776km for the Seine – but its shallow waters have proved an obstacle to navigation until now. The clever design of Loire Princesse gets over the hull has another advantage – creating an opportunity for problem. The two side-mounted paddles, 18ft in the designers to add substantial balconies to cabins on diameter and driven by electric motors, can even disturb the main deck. the sandy riverbed without fear of grounding. Like most of the new ships in Croisi’s 43-strong fleet, The fact that they project beyond the side of the ship’s Loire Princesse is a model of clean, contemporary design; there are few extravagances, although wine and beer are included with lunch and dinner. In the cabins, all beds face the windows (and the river) Expansion plans and a TV drops down from the ceiling at the push of a button – once you find where the button has been After building Loire Princesse, CroisiEurope is following concealed. up with a similar 80-passenger vessel to operate on the There’s a bright, airy lounge bar on the main deck with Elbe between Prague and Berlin, starting from next a small terrace at the stern and a roomy sundeck above. spring. On the lower deck is the restaurant serving well-cooked French specialities on a limited-choice menu. The family-owned company also plans to expand its From a base in Nantes, handily close to the fascinating barge fleet with the addition of two 24-passenger collection of Machines de l’ile – including a ride-along boats. The Daniele is destined for the Briare Canal mechanical elephant – Princesse’s cruises journey down between Burgundy and the Loire, while Damazan will to the Atlantic port of St Nazaire and upstream as far as operate in the Aquitaine region. Angers. Excursions vary from a trip to the shipyard which built Further afield, CroisiEurope will launch a 60-passenger the Queen Mary 2 and is currently constructing Harmony ship sailing the Mekong between Ho Chi Minh City in of the Seas, to wine-tasting among the chateaux. Vietnam and Siem Reap in Cambodia. Fares from £1,329 p person for a 7-night cruise to St Nazaire, Ancenis (for Angers) Saumur and Bouchemaine, www.croisieurope.co.uk or £1,078 for a shorter 5-night cruise.

54 3 of a kind WORLD OF CRUISING

Each of these three northern European of a ports has its own identity, borne out of different cultures, locations and history, with canals being the common 3Kind bond. By SUSAN PARKER

avenues of De Neegen Straatjes offer an Amsterdam eclectic mix of independent shops, galleries 1 and hidden bars and restaurants. Amsterdam On arrival in Amsterdam, tourist information Don’t be afraid to visit one of the ‘brown’ is available at the terminal together with cafes; these are Amsterdam’s specialty. Just Factfile market stalls offering Dutch souvenirs 20 minutes from the terminal is In t Aepjen including those famous cheeses. Pick up a on the Zeedijk, which dates from 1544 and Tourism: Holland Pass which provides access to was a cafe where seafarers used to sleep, eat www.iamsterdam.com museums, canal tours - also sold separately and drink. If short of cash they would pay Population: - as well as giving discount in restaurants. with exotic animals such as small monkeys, 780,000 Then head off into the heart of the city, or aepjen, hence the name. Restaurants: which is a 15-minute walk via Central Station. For more of a meal head for Haesje Claes in Ciel Bleu, Bridges, In t The Amsterdam canal ring is a UNESCO Spuistraat. This Dutch kitchen has a long Aepjen, Haesje Claes World Heritage site and has more than history of serving local food in an authentic Shore excursions: 100km of waterways, about 90 islands and atmosphere. For the gourmets amongst you, Canal tours, Anne 1,500 bridges. The three 17th century main there are four restaurants with Michelin stars Frank House, Van Gogh canals -Herengracht, Prinsengracht, and including Librijes Zusje and Bord’Eau. Museum Keizersgracht - form concentric belts around To get a real overview of the city, head for Proximity to city centre: the city and are where history comes alive. the SkyLounge Amsterdam in the Hilton 500 metres Canal tours are very popular and a very Doubletree just next to the station. On the Tourism office: gentle way of viewing the city. 12th floor it provides a fine view of the Inside the terminal Other popular attractions include the Anne centre and further afield . What better way Frank House, Van Gogh Museum, and the to say farewell to the city than a cocktail at newly-restored Rijksmuseum. The cobbled dusk before heading back on board? 3 of a kind 55 WORLD OF CRUISING

Copenhagen

Whether arriving at the Langelinie and Nordre Toldboden Quays or the Ocean Quay visiting passengers are welcomed with free city maps. Langelinie has a selection of outlet stores just a stone’s throw from the ship. During the festive season, the Danish capital goes to town by decorating the pier with Christmas trees, giving away free goodies and putting on a Tivoli Garden musical farewell. The market in Kgs Square is just eight stops and 14 minutes on bus 26. The Little Mermaid is only 10 minutes walk away, and the stroll along the waterfront takes you to the bars and restaurants of Nyhavn in about 30 minutes. Ocean Quay has is a souvenir shop and exchange counter as well as shuttle buses and taxis for short drive into the city centre. Once there the city map is just what is needed for suggesting themed walking tours; it takes all the stress out of sorting out what’s what and where. For tours it’s a case of working out what ‘floats your boat’ before arriving as there are five that get the most votes. Tivoli Gardens inspired Walt Disney to create Disneyland. It is packed with fairground rides, and restaurants, and is also the venue for concerts by top performers. Canal tours are popular too as well as the Queen’s residence Amalienborg Palace, Christiansborg Palace and Rosenborg Castle. Lager aficionados will not want to miss Carlsberg – for them, possibly the best tour in town. On site in the brewery is Tovehallerne restaurant which serves Danish specilities. My choice, however, would be Royal Smushi Cafe which is a modern twist on traditional Danish open-faced sandwiches. Check out the website for mouthwatering photographs.

2 Copenhagen Factfile

Tourism Christiansborg Palace, www.visitcopenhagen.dk Rosenborg Castle Population Proximity to city centre 1.26m Langelinie Quay, six minutes by Restaurants car Tovehallerne, Royal Smushi Cafe Ocean Quay, 11 minutes by car Shore excursions Tourism office: Tivoli Garden, canal tours, Copenhagen Visitors Centre Amalienborg Palace, opposite Tivoli Gardens 56 3 of a kind WORLD OF CRUISING

Hamburg

Arrival into Hamburg is to one of four terminals so it’s important to check and then make plans from there. Distances to the city centre vary between 2km and 9km but there’s plenty of public transport, taxis and sometimes shuttle buses available. Hamburg Cruise Centre has tourist information at every terminal so make sure to drop by and pick up whatever you need. Consider buying a day pass for public transport and enjoy both the underground and a boat ride. This is a city which is extremely cycle-friendly and a bike would be my recommendation for seeing as much as possible in the time permitted. Or take to a kayak on the canals for an altogether different view. A more leisurely option is a city tour which tracks the history of this port city as well as visiting the HafenCity, one of the biggest construction projects in Europe. There are five main churches with the Catholic Kleiner Michael being close to the port. With or without children model railway Miniatur Wunderland is magical, while the International Maritime Museum is a gem for shiplovers. Sweet tooth? Then head to Chocoversum for 90 minutes of educational indulgence. The Reeperbahn has a reputation going back centuries. There are plenty of reminders of The Beatles’ 3 presence here in the 60s, and those wanting some racy fun could sign up for the Whores Through History tour. Hamburg Hamburg is a shoppers’ paradise and Schanze is the Factfile place to escape the mainstream and find individual boutiques, vinyl records and fun gift ideas. There are Tourism: Town hall to HafenCity beaches along the river and Elbstrand is one such where www.hamburg-tourism.de Proximity to city centre: it’s possible to relax and watch the ships go by at the Population: HafenCity 2.5km, Altona same time. 1.7m 6km, Uberseebrucke 2km, When it comes to restaurants Bullerei under TV chef Restaurants: Steinwerder 9km Tim Malzer is a treat but you would need to book early. Bullerie, Clouds Tourism office: Try the Kris Kross for a main dish which includes Arctic Shore excursions: Terminals and main station trout and mussel broth. For spectacular views take the lift to Clouds on the 23rd floor of the Tanzende Turme. CRUISE CUISINE 57 Take a WORLD OF CRUISING cooks witourth P&O's celebrity chefs

Food Heroes are LOUISE RODDON’s inspiration as she checks out everything Britannia has to offer the hungry gastronaut 58 CRUISE CUISINE WORLD OF CRUISING

Lessons in Britannia’s Cookery Club are good fun - like having Fanny Cradock at the helm without the fluster or the F-words

rom schmoozing guest celebrities to greasing ramekin dishes - fans of BBC’s Saturday Kitchen Live will know James Martin as the chef who deftly flits between the two. Aspiring Fcooks can now do more than simply turning to their televisions for inspiration on a bleary-eyed Saturday morning. As the face of arguably the sleekest-looking cookery school at sea, Martin is heading up an impressive dollop of foodie attractions on P&O Cruises’ Britannia - and that means the chance to try out hands-on masterclasses, join him on market tours, or even glean culinary tips over fine wines and fabulous food at one of his hosted Chef’s Table dinners. This makes a chef-accompanied voyage a magnet for all foodies – a latter day Cook’s Tour if you like - with a fleet of additional celebrity Food Heroes fleshing out Britannia’s Cookery Club. Listed on future sailings is an impressive roll call of famous names spanning Baking Queen Mary Berry, Marco Pierre White and Paul Rankin, to Michelin-starred Nathan Outlaw and Cake Boy Eric Lanlard. The Food Heroes line-up expands into yet more recognisable names, and if you’re a budding chef, it’s not hard to imagine what fun it would be learning the secrets of perfect pasta from jovial Antonio Carluccio, or having the daddy of dainty food Pierre Koffmann whisking you to a future of lump-free bechamels. A word of warning though: this Cookery Club, where classes cost from £45, to £100 for celebrity chef tutorials, CRUISE CUISINE 59 WORLD OF CRUISING

Previous page: James Martin with Britannia passengers in Barcelona's La Boqueria market. This page, clockwise, from top left - Gold standard: The Limelight Club. James Martin with the Cookery Club's Rob Cottam and Lizzie Kennedy. Passengers eager to sample their Cornish pasties. Eric Lanlard shows off his afternoon tea in the Epicurian Restaurant. One of Eric's speciality lollipops

(the Chef’s Table dinner setting you back between £150 credentials, but he proves a charming and encouraging and £200pp) is the icing on the cake for Britannia - and tutor. “We’ve had passengers come up and say, ‘I’m not a as chef tutor Rob Cottam tells me during the maiden very good cook. Can I do these classes?’ I tell them of voyage, “we’ve had sell-outs for places some six months course, and for those who can cook, we can help hone ahead of sailing dates.” those skills. Best of all, you eat what you cook and there’s no washing up.” ith James’s masterclass fully booked, I opt The school can accommodate 24 students at 12 for Rob’s “Best of British” – a two-and-a- workstations. Our slightly smaller group is a mix of the W half hour whizz-through the rustic super-confident and simply keen, and with printed underworld of Cornish pasties, chutney, miniature Scotch instructions to one side, I labour over bubbling pots and eggs and posh Welsh rarebit. So, to the light-filled 17th steam-swathed pans and pound pastry with Rob’s advice deck Cookery Club I go, where I don a crisp apron and to “give it some welly” ringing in my ears. chef’s hat and take my place at one of three long white It’s all good instructive fun in a very unstuffy British way marble workstations. – rather like having Fanny Cradock at the helm without An avarice-inducing array of marble pestle and mortars, the fluster or F-words. And I pick up plenty of tips: how rolling pins, gleaming steel knives and scar-free chopping to chop onions without ending up in casualty (the secret? boards match pre-prepped bowls of flour, butter, raw slice like a fan), the best method for mottle-free pastry steak, onions and potatoes - the essential ingredients for dough by adding water little by little, and that chutney, picture-perfect pasties. despite its bad press, is actually easy-peasy to make. Rob Cottam may not share James Martin’s glamour But Britannia’s culinary credentials aren’t just limited to 60 CRUISE CUISINE WORLD OF CRUISING

Clockwise: Britannia's Java Cafe. A selection of gins in the Crow's Nest. James Martin goes shopping in Barcelona. Britannia’s speciality restaurants are top-notch, each with its own galley and dedicated team of chefs

Peter Toms describes as “defining the Britannia concept.” Dramatic abstract gold wall hangings add to the setting for contemporary British cuisine that not only tastes good but looks pretty enough to frame. I relish my salt and pepper oyster and jumbo prawn tempura – particularly its unusual horseradish ice cream accompaniment, and the delicate pyramids of wild boar that follow, alongside a smoked pork cheek croquette and Lancashire black pudding, taste heavenly. But the real bombshell, both in looks and flavour, is the Crème The Cookery Club. Complementing Meridian and Brulee. It accompanies an incendiary-shaped white Peninsular, the main dining rooms, are top-notch chocolate sphere which explodes to a spill of raspberry speciality restaurants, each with its own galley and pearls, candy floss and caramelised popcorn. dedicated team of chefs. They command a Abundant sweet treats make up Epicurean’s Afternoon supplementary charge, but judging by the rather Tea – a bargain at £15 a head compared to the fortunes lacklustre sirloin we tried in Peninsular on our first night charged in five star hotels. This is, after all, master – a piece of meat we sent back twice until cooked to patissier Eric Lanlard’s creation, where a resplendent medium rare – it can pay to save your visit for the Gala triple tier of sweet and savoury cakes spans a cracked menus devised by Marco Pierre White. black pepper macaron stuffed with smoked salmon and His offerings include starters like fresh asparagus spears dill to an unforgettable dark chocolate teardrop, doused with soft poached egg and sauce mousseline, to New in Italian Amarena cherries. England split lobster in Mornay sauce, with Prosecco- For a complete change of scene I head to the Limelight poached strawberries to finish. Club – P&O Cruises’ intimate supper club venue. Plum coloured armchairs surround bronze tinged circular tul Kochhar’s swish-looking Sindhu is bathed in tables beneath spangled ceiling lights, giving the feel of a soft rose-gold lights and sports an Art Deco feel raffish London nightclub from the 1970s. But the menu is Ato its dark wood and burnt orange furnishings. contemporary enough: pulled ham hock rillette “Sindhu now becomes the main P&O restaurant for me,” preceding precision-cooked line-caught sea bass fillet. Atul tells me,” with the other ships eventually mirroring Wisely, the lights are kept on during dinner before its modern British Indian menu. I’ve incorporated dimming to the floor show – for us, a round of songs and ingredients I’ve not used before like venison and duck – mother-in-law jokes from “Last Tango in Halifax” actor, and an increase towards vegetarian elements.” Dean Andrews. I kick off with Atul’s signature dish, crisp fried soft shell Noteworthy too, are the charcuterie and seafood crab and tomato, cucumber and passion fruit salsa – offerings in the Atrium’s Market Café. Likewise, Olly exquisitely crunchy, with just the subtlest marine tang Smith’s Glasshouse has an impressive tapas-style menu lurking beneath its crisp coating. Spice-balanced encompassing miniature burgers to tempura prawns. Gressingham duck breast served with a Punjabi Masala These both make good alternative lunch venues given the and three bean stew follows, then Mungfali aur Chaklet disappointingly bland array hallmarking the Horizon – a peanut butter parfait with sugar palm ice cream. buffet. Now if James Martin could waggle his magic More Poirot-style elegance hallmarks the cream toned around the kitchens here, Horizon could make for a smart Epicurean, a top deck dinner venue that F&B manager addition to an otherwise very fine ship. CRUISE RECIPE 61 WORLD OF CRUISING

Cornish steak pasties

Makes 2 large, or 4 small

INGREDIENTS METHOD For the pastry, rub in flour, salt, lard and butter to a fine For the pastry breadcrumb appearance. Add enough of the cold water to bring 200g strong white flour together into a firm dough. Cut into 2 or 4 pieces and roll out 60g lard into circles 2-3mm thick. Chill for 10-15 minutes 15g butter ½ teaspoon salt Mix all the filling ingredients together and 40-60ml cold water season well with salt and plenty of pepper. 1 egg, beaten, to glaze Divide the mixture between the pasty pastry, For the filling brush the edges with beaten egg and shape. 200g beef skirt steak, thinly sliced Glaze the outside with egg wash. 2tbsp diced cooked potato 2tbsp diced cooked celeriac Bake in a pre-heated oven 200’C/GM6 for Salt and freshly ground black pepper 30-45 minutes until golden brown and piping hot inside. Serve with salad and chutney. 62 WRITING COMPETITION WORLD OF CRUISING

After her dream cruise, what does Katy do next?

WHEN World of Cruising launched a competition last year Katy, 27, studied to find new writing talent among student journalists who meteorology at the University of had never been on a cruise, little did we know that we East Anglia and might end up with a winner who is looking to make a is currently a part-time career at sea. But that’s the prospect now facing KATY student of photo-journalism HOWARD, from Southampton Solent University. Read on at Southampton Solent University. to discover her impressions of the prize cruise aboard MSC Preziosa, and what the future may now hold.

he news that I was to be hadn’t kicked in and it was only large Swarovski crystals, and there boarding MSC Cruises’ when we got our first close-up look are lights everywhere. The staff are T flagship, MSC Preziosa was at the ship we realised these things ready to welcome you though, beyond anything I could have are not just huge, they are answer any questions and are very thought of. Everything I had written humongous. talented people, they all have to about for the competition went out After collecting our boarding cards know a minimum of three of my mind. I went from celebration and going through a security check, languages. to panic. I got my first look at the ship’s The cabins are simple; we were The time soon came to travel photographers (more of them later), lucky to have a little balcony, and our though, so armed with two cameras, taking the “welcome aboard” cabin attendant had left us a memory cards, laptops and hard pictures. welcome “pet”, a dog made out of drives - and my mum - I was ready to They didn’t warn us how sparkly towels. experience life on the ocean waves. and glamorous these ships are. The Each night has a different theme, Even on the flight to Genoa, reality central staircases are decked with from casual to gala, and Italian to 63

WRITING COMPETITION 63 WORLD OF CRUISING

After her dream cruise, what does Katy do next?

60s and 70s. The menus are gave us opportunities for lots of trips music lounges, casino, sports bars, matched to the theme, sometimes out. Mostly we just explored the swimming pools, spas and a gym. the waiters dressed up, but it was all towns by ourselves, getting into the Having a massage was new for me, very well presented and the food culture, and trying to pick up a few and very enjoyable. As was Vertigo, tasted wonderful. Even on a gluten phrases along the way. a fun waterslide, with a see-through free diet, there is plenty to choose part that is out over the side of the from. During the day there is a buffet e did go on two organised ship, looking down onto the ocean! for everyone, and speciality trips though – the first There’s fun for the youngsters too, restaurants if you fancied something W we experienced was a with a kids’ club, teen disco, video different. new excursion, and actually took arcades and their own pool Gala night was the best place on the ship itself. It was a adventure area. opportunity to see the guided tour of “Behind the Scenes” I can’t thank the crew of MSC photographers (yes, them again) at so we got a glimpse of the crews’ Preziosa and MSC Cruises enough work. Everyone dressed up in their world, and the exclusive MSC Yacht for making us feel very welcome on finest, and even I wore a dress! From Club area. board and for making our first cruise various mini studios to simply The other was to Valencia’s very special, but my biggest thanks wandering the crowds, the Oceanogràfic, a large aquarium with has to go to World of Cruising who photographers got plenty of images, over 500 species of fish, birds and made this all possible in the first and they were all for sale the mammals. It was a great family place. This cruise exceeded every following day. place, with dolphin shows and expectation I ever had, and has left The fact we were in a different port feeding times throughout the day. me with just one thought … when and a different country each day There’s plenty to do on board, from can I go on another one?

To Be a Ships Photographer

While on board MSC Preziosa, I wanted to find charge of all the photographers, technicians and the out as much as I could about being a photo shop. He was happy to explain that each new photographer. After all, it’s one of the things I member of his team starts as a third photographer, and want to do after university. On the first of two undergoes a lot of training. They initially shadow gala nights, the photographers were out in another as an assistant, and then are shadowed in force, and I latched on to one of them, Ivana, order to gain experience. who had a mini studio set-up. Before long, my Pay is in dollars, and starts at a basic rate but with mum warned her: “Watch out, Katy is after added commission, and with bed and board all your job!” included, there isn’t a lot to have to pay for. All photographers also help during the day in the photo This sparked a wonderful conversation about what it shop, and this is mainly where the languages are was like working on board, and Ivana said it was hard, needed. but worth it. Six months at sea, away from family and I think Vikram did his best to put me off, but he could friends, working every day, but then two months at see how excited I was and gave me a few pointers on home. She also said that although the photographers how to apply for a photography position. When I are trained to take images in a certain way, they can still caught up with Ivana just before the end of the cruise, be creative within that. It also turned out Ivana trained she only had one thing to say. “So, when will you as a journalist before joining MSC! become my colleague?” Later I met Vikram, the photo manager on board, in Tomorrow, if they will take me! 64 WHERE NEXT WORLD OF CRUISING

Northern delights

he Northern Lights are on every traveller’s bucket list. It doesn’t matter that – apart from on the rare occasions when they can be seen from Tthe UK – a winter journey into the frozen Arctic is a pre-requisite for a sighting. The journey might be arduous, but the reward makes even a fleeting glimpse worthwhile. We’ll put ourselves through many privations for the privilege, but let’s face it, there can be fewer more comfortable ways of travelling in search of the Aurora Borealis than by cruise ship. Which is what I did earlier this year on Saga Pearl II. Led by the amiable Captain Wesley Dunlop, and kitted out with bright red fleece-lined jackets to keep out the chill, we set out from Southampton on our big adventure. U Sponsored by

Like a curtain across the sky pulled by an unseen hand ... the Northern Lights over the mountains of Norway. Picture: BJÖRN JÖRGENSEN/visitnorway.com 66 WHERE NEXT WORLD OF CRUISING

From left: A Sami reindeer herder talks about his colourful traditions. A calm winter day in the fjords. Saga Pearl II berthed in Andalsnes. Husky dog-sledding camp near Alta

Those jackets kept us warm, but they couldn’t guard photography tips against the February gales that tossed us around in the North Sea; the sheltered waters of the fjords became a Don’t get me wrong, the Northern Lights are an welcome refuge. incredible sight and they deserve a place on every Seven days into the voyage, our plucky band of traveller’s bucket list. But they can be elusive; Saganauts arrived in the northern port of Alta. Half of sightings are dependent on the right kind of solar them were taken on an included excursion in search of activity taking place on nights when the sky is not the lights. My turn had to wait for 24 hours because first obscured by clouds. I had a date with the Sorrisniva Igloo Hotel. Joanna Lumley spent a night here when she came in Except on exceptional occasions, they do not look search of the aurora for a TV documentary. Not the same as impressive to the naked eye as through a camera building – it is constructed from ice and snow, from the – which can play (perfectly legitimate) tricks with ground up, each January. She could barely disguise her exposure times to make them look brighter and more discomfort at the icy beds covered in reindeer skins, the vivid. frozen breath that hangs in the air … and the fact that there are no en suite bathrooms and a visit to the facilities Here are the expert tips to taking the perfect in the middle of the night requires an undignified dash to photo of the Northern Lights: the main building. Careful control of my liquid intake during a warming Find a viewing position as far as possible from street dinner of reindeer stew ensured I was able to spend an lights, buildings and other light pollution. uninterrupted night in bed – well, it would have been Use a digital SLR camera mounted on a tripod or uninterrupted if my wife had not had to keep prodding improvise by resting it on a cushion or something me in the back to stop me from snoring. similar Still, it was another box ticked in the “been there, done Do NOT use flash, and de-activate automatic that” column. Now for the lights themselves. settings, including auto-focus The local expert brought on board Saga Pearl II to lead Choose a high ISO setting; in manual mode, set the the excursion spends his life studying the Northern focus to infinity Lights. He could not have been more pessimistic about Use a long shutter speed; if you get chance, the chances of a sighting. Monitoring showed there was experiment with speeds between 10 and 30 seconds a “reasonable” chance of solar activity, but the weather Use a wide angle lens and set the aperture at f/2.8 forecast offered little hope of a break in the clouds. or better Shame to say, we decided to remain on the ship rather Be patient, and dress warmly – you don’t want to than join the buses to be whisked off into a forest. We miss the best opportunity because you had to head would take our chances of a sighting from on deck. inside for a warm drink And it came as a pleasant surprise when the officer of It's virtually impossible to take successful pictures of the watch came on the ship’s PA to announce there was the Northern Lights from a moving ship “activity” off the starboard bow. Hastily pulling on warm

SMALL SHIP DISCOVERY CRUISING

WWW.VOYAGESOFDISCOVERY.CO.UK 0800 987 5163 - QUOTE WOC

STRIP AD.indd 1 04/06/2015 16:05 Factfile

Saga Sapphire sets out from Southampton on 26 February next year on a 15-night cruise Searching for the Northern Lights.

The ship will call at Bergen, Åndalsnes, Tromsø, Alta (overnight) , Narvik, and Ålesund. Fares from £2,899 per person include all meals and entertainment on board, gratuities, an evening excursion in search of the Aurora Borealis, optional travel insurance, and Saga’s UK mainland travel service to and from Southampton

Visit saga.co.uk/cruises or call 0800 50 50 30

SAGA SAPPHIRE quick facts: 720 passengers, 415 crew, 37,300 gross tons, 655 ft long, 10 passenger decks

clothes and grabbing my camera and monopod, I dashed Northern Lights could have been radiating heat as well as outside, to be greeted by a flicker of a green glow above colour. the mountains. I waited, shivering, but the activity – and And then they disappeared. I returned to the cabin. The my anticipation - died down. evening’s excitement was over. Back to the cabin, until another announcement came Just one little thing … my wife was still sleeping soundly. across the Tannoy and the process was repeated. Exhausted from her restless night in the ice hotel, she had Standing above the bridge, with the ship’s lights switched gone to bed early and I had been afraid to disturb her. As off and my camera wedged against the rail, this time I a result, she was probably the only passenger on Saga was entranced as a shimmering green curtain danced Pearl II who did NOT see the lights. As she reminded me across the night sky as if pulled by an unseen hand. on countless occasions over the next few days. Following advice on how to take the best pictures (see My penance? I’ll have to take her again. Which is good, panel) I took shot after shot. At least four – out of more because we’ll get another chance to go dog-sledding in than 100 – came out better than I could have hoped, the snow, to meet the colourfully-dressed Sami people, although they are nowhere near good enough for to experience Norway in the winter, and relax among publication here. friends new and old on another cruise. SMALL SHIP DISCOVERY CRUISING For half an hour or so, I didn’t feel the cold – the JOHN HONEYWELL

WWW.VOYAGESOFDISCOVERY.CO.UK 0800 987 5163 - QUOTE WOC

STRIP AD.indd 1 04/06/2015 16:05 Th ere are river cruises, and there are Uniworld Boutique River Cruises

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WOC WBRC DPS June 15.indd 1 01/06/2015 10:23 WOC WBRC DPS June 15.indd 2 01/06/2015 10:23 Th ere are river cruises, and there are Uniworld Boutique River Cruises

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WOC WBRC DPS June 15.indd 1 01/06/2015 10:23 WOC WBRC DPS June 15.indd 2 01/06/2015 10:23 70 NOTHING TO FEAR WORLD OF CRUISING

What the cruise lines DON’T tell their passengers

By DANIELLE FEAR

e are lovingly Everything is perfect, in fact it THEY DON’T TELL US … bombarded with seems as if nothing could be better, … that one cruise will leave you images of stunning but then just as we find our comfort with a terrible addiction to ‘ship life’ Wocean going vessels, zone, we discover what the cruise and before you know it, your next tempted with the opportunity to visit lines didn’t tell us cruise will have booked itself. several superb destinations in one before we holiday and then pushed further into boarded. … that the worst possible thing consideration by the too-good-to- you could discuss with a fellow be-true low prices and added extras. passenger is how much you paid In short, the brochures and for your cruise. DON’T DO IT! Facebook pages of our favourite never You’ll either be filled with envy cruise lines suck us in with their about the money you could charms and before we know it our talk have saved, or you’ll be next cruise is booked, paid for and turning your neighbour into a just about to set sail. money green-eyed monster. NOTHING TO FEAR 71 WORLD OF CRUISING

find it, they WILL use it. Without a pack fat moment’s hesitation. You called for the lift? You better run like Usain pants... you Bolt to get to the door as soon as it ‘pings’, otherwise it will be closed, will need with you still waiting. several On the other hand, they don’t tell us … pairs! … we will meet some fantastic people, among passengers and crew, and a lot of them will become … to pack fat pants and trust me, dryers, and the occasional older lady lifelong friends. Many of those crew you WILL need several pairs! They likes to tell us “young ones” how to members will bend over backwards don’t tell you that the average use an iron. Remove your clothes to help each and every passenger, weight gain on a cruise is 1 lb per from the washing machine as soon no matter what the circumstances. day! I would tell you to pack your as it has finished – if you don’t, then gym shoes and Lycra, but then I someone else will. … that cocktails are compulsory. would be a complete hypocrite. Honestly, they are! Even more so if … even more dangerous: they have the words ‘cocktail of the … about the single-ply toilet paper Disembarkation Day. It really can day’ assigned to them. that’s about as fit for purpose as a bring out the worst in some people. lead-lined lifejacket! And while we’re The usually polite and calm … going shopping in every port, in the bathroom, they don’t tell us passenger can turn into a on a 5-week Caribbean cruise, that when the sea gets a bit choppy, thoroughbred monster in the and then trying to fit the contents you’ll need the commando skills of a blink of an eye. The of every island into an inside Royal Marine if you want to shave stress of leaving cabin is definitely NOT the your legs and wash your hair in the the ship just best idea in the world! shower. It’s taken me several years becomes too Hashtag #UpgradePlease and 30 cruises to master this art. much – I have Nor do they tell you that in very seen arguments, rough weather your cabin furniture heard passengers may suddenly come to life. screaming at crew members because cocktails are They don’t tell us … they entered a venue … that the “hot plates” sign in the first but were then the compulsory buffet means plates have actually last to leave, and I even been boil-washed at 10,000 witnessed two Just one more thing. They might degrees Celsius and should be gentleman pushing each other out have told you, so why didn’t they tell handled only when wearing a pair of of the lift. It’s not big, it’s not clever, me? That the steam from my hair welder’s gloves. and eventually we all will get to the straighteners would set off an alarm baggage hall! Take a breath. on the bridge indicating that there … or that the most dangerous could be a fire. Ladies, if you have a place on board is the launderette. Speaking of the lifts (or elevators balcony, then open the door; if an There should be an ‘enter at your as our American cousins insist on inside cabin is your home from own risk’ sign on the door. Some calling them), why don’t they warn home, turn your air conditioning passengers get possessive over the us there is a button to close the down and don’t straighten your hair washing machines and the tumble doors? Once your fellow passengers directly underneath the sensors. Otherwise, you could end up having one LARGE portion of your deck evicted from their peaceful abodes hot plates should and you’ll suddenly be the least popular person on your corridor. only be handled Even if your hair looks amazing. There’s so much more. Even after while wearing so many cruises, I am still discovering more things they didn't welder's gloves tell me ... 72 EDITORIAL PROMOTION

Where will your Voyage of Discovery take you?

small-ship discovery cruise gives passengers access to a host of off-the-beaten-track ports that larger vessels simply cannot Areach, which is why a journey with Voyages of Discovery offers an unforgettable way to see the world. We have created amazing cruises to incredible places, with our small ship Voyager able to reach the heart of each destination while passengers enjoy their holiday in comfort and style. She also stays in port longer so passengers can explore not only the iconic sites but also the hidden treasures. On board there’s a relaxed atmosphere, with accommodation for Venice, Italy just 540 passengers alongside our friendly crew. Facilities include four bars, a library, fitness centre and spa. Voyager's elegant Discovery Restaurant offers varied menus and excellent table service, while our light and airy Veranda Restaurant comes with a more laid-back setting for buffet-style meals. During days at sea, there’s never a dull moment – passengers may choose to unwind by the pool, join a creative class or listen to one of our expert Guest Speakers, who will add valuable insight into each new port of call. In the evenings we host deck parties, hold classical recitals and invite local musicians on board to add their own style of entertainment. Voyages of Discovery believe their product comes with surprisingly good value too. As well as all meals and entertainment on board EDITORIAL PROMOTION 73

Church in Bay of Kotor, Montenegro THE CRUISES

Mediterranean Reflections former diplomat who was Where will your Voyage 14 days from 23 September to 6 Ambassador to Prague in the ‘90s, October. Istanbul-Canakkale- member of the Royal Institute of Dikili-Antalya-Kusadasi-Patmos- International Affairs (Chatham Kavala-Thessalonika-Volos-Piraeus House). Dr Ann Birchall, of Discovery take you? (Athens). Guest Speakers: Canon archaeologist of international Dr Anne Davison (National repute, TV presenter. Association of Fine Arts Societies) Fares from £999 per person. and Major General Stephen Carr-Smith, former deputy Mediterranean Icons: director-general of the NATO 12 days from 17 October to 28 Communications and Information October. Dubrovnik-Brindisi- Systems Agency, and chairman of Sarande (Albania)-Naples- the Winchester Committee of Civitavecchia (Rome)-Livorno- Cancer Research UK. Sete-Barcelona. Guest Speakers: Fares from £999 per person. Major General Patrick Cordingley, who commanded the Desert Rats Gems of the Aegean and – the 7th Armoured Brigade – Adriatic Seas: during the 1991 Gulf War, leading 12 days from 6-17 October. the tank formation that led the Piraeus (Athens)-Nauplion- Allied attack. Dr Louise Bonner, Katakolon-Sarande (Albania)- geography lecturer specialising in Kotor-Hvar-Venice-Pula-Split- wildlife ecology, environmental Dubrovnik (overnight). Guest management and tourism. Fares Speakers: Sir Michael Burton, from £999 per person.

Voyager, flights and overseas transfers, all port and pre-paid airport taxes and onboard service charges, are included in the fares so there’s nothing more to worry about. To make the Voyages of Discovery experience even more special, there are plenty of optional extras – a chauffeur service, port parking and the chance to tailor each cruise with a pre- or post-cruise extension. When the ship arrives in port there’s always a carefully arranged choice of optional shore excursions, wherever in the world you find yourself. Our summer 2015 programme reaches its finalé with a trio of tempting cruises through the attractive waters of the Mediterranean, Aegean and Adriatic, whose shores are home to an array of fascinating ruins, mesmerising landscapes and ancient treasures. Mediterranean Reflections is a stunning 14-day cruise from Turkey to Greece, beginning in the magnificent city of Istanbul. An intriguing blend of east and west, this dazzling city sits half in Asia and half in Europe. Of all the sights here, the Blue Mosque, or the Sultan Ahmed Ephesus, Turkey Mosque to give it its full title, is one of the most famous. From the port of Canakkale it is possible to step ashore to discover the legendary site of Troy. For most of the last 3,000 years people assumed that Homer’s epic poem The Iliad was fiction and that the city never really existed. That was to change when its remains were discovered in the 19th century. A call at Kusadasi gives the opportunity to walk through the streets of Ephesus for an unparalleled glimpse of life in a Greco-Roman city, or admire the Meteora Monasteries from Volos. Perched atop soaring natural rock pillars up to 550 metres high, these UNESCO-listed structures are a spectacular sight. The name Meteora means ‘suspended in the air’ and this area was first inhabited by hermit monks in the 11th century, with the first monastery dating from the U

The Pool 74 EDITORIAL PROMOTION

1300s. In total, 24 monasteries were built under seemingly impossible conditions. Just six of these Byzantine treasures survive today, which are now accessible via roads, pathways and steps to the top.

ur Gems of the Aegean & Adriatic Seas cruise is a 12-day voyage which throws the spotlight on Roman and Venetian Olegacies and unique landscapes harbouring architectural THE SHIP gems. From Piraeus, discover Athens’ mighty Acropolis – a citadel which is famed throughout the world. Since its completion in 438 BC, The Veranda Restaurant has recently this incredible temple has served as a Christian church in the late 6th been refurbished and a newly- century AD and a Turkish mosque following the Ottoman conquest. constructed corridor along the Katakolon is a small town on the western coast of the Peloponnese, starboard side of the Darwin Lounge from where ancient Olympia, the birthplace of the Olympic Games, has made it easier to access the can be explored. Harmony of body and soul and the pursuit of Lookout Lounge without disturbing physical excellence were the concepts behind the first Olympic Games lectures or theatre shows. held in honour of Zeus in 776 BC. Voyager then sails to Albania, gateway to the UNESCO-listed city of Length: 499 ft Butrint – an incredible archaeological site nestled amongst a Tonnage: 15,396 picturesque national park. She then continues on to the extraordinary Passenger decks: 7 floating city of Venice, the jewel in Italy’s glittering crown. This voyage Cabins: 270 ends in Dubrovnik – the viewpoint above the Old City affords splendid Passengers: 540 views of this medieval city and out over the sparkling Adriatic Sea. Crew: 230 Our summer programme comes to an end with Mediterranean Icons, an itinerary which, over 12 days takes in five countries, from Dubrovnik’s marble streets to Barcelona’s abundance of Gothic architecture. Brindisi, on Italy’s Puglian coast, was a fixture on the ancient Silk Naupilion, Greece Road. From here visit beautiful Lecce or UNESCO-listed Alberobello, whose unique conical-roofed trulli houses are remarkable examples of drywall construction. Voyager then sails around the heel and toe of Italy to the city of Naples, watched over by brooding Mount Vesuvius. There is much to explore from here, chic Capri, charming Sorrento or the famous ruined city of Pompeii. Soak up more of Italy’s immense history in its capital Rome, home to the iconic Colosseum, a glorious monument to Roman imperial power. This huge arena could seat 50,000 spectators in its heyday, who would watch bloody battles between gladiators, criminals, slaves and even exotic animals – the quantity slaughtered here saw the number of lions, jaguars and tigers plummet across the globe. Voyager bids Italy farewell after a call to Livorno, gateway to the stunning cities of Tuscany. Discover Florence, an elegant city of art and Meteora Monastry, Greece culture, and Pisa, where the famous Leaning Tower resides – and continues to incline – among the Field of Miracles, or enjoy the natural rugged beauty of the Cinque Terre. Finally, after an opportunity to marvel at the turreted, medieval walled city of Carcassonne, this voyage reaches its conclusion in the capital of Catalonia, Barcelona, a city greatly influenced by the work of Antoni Gaudi. Voyager's summer programme ends on this high note before the winter season sees her heading to the exotic shores of the Caribbean, South and Central America – destinations overflowing with yet more extraordinary highlights.

For further information about our full programme of itineraries from June 2015 to October 2016, to book your perfect Voyages of Discovery cruise or to request a brochure, please call 0800 987 5163, visit www.voyagesofdiscovery.co.uk or contact your local travel agent. We look forward to welcoming you on board Voyager soon to embark on an unforgettable adventure. THE SMALL SHIP DISCOVERY

9 out of 10 Voyages CRUISE SPECIALIST of Discovery customers say they would choose to cruise with us again*

Discover the world onboard award winning small ship Voyager in the company of just 540 other passengers.

LIVELY TALKS FROM ALL TIPS & TAXES FLIGHTS & TRANSFERS GUEST SPEAKERS INCLUDED INCLUDED IN YOUR FARE

Our entertaining talks are To make your trip as If you’re flying out to meet the best in the business, relaxed as possible, we Voyager on one of our fly bringing experts on board take care of all your port cruises, your flights and to share their insights and pre-paid airport taxes, overseas transfers are all and adventures with you. including them in the included in your cruise They’re real characters price of your cruise. It also price, helping you enjoy who tell great stories, and covers all your onboard a relaxed, hassle-free there’s no extra charge for service charges, so you holiday. coming along. don’t have to give them a second thought.

FANTASTIC MENUS FROM GREAT ACTIVITIES COMFORTABLE CABINS QUALITY CHEFS & ENTERTAINMENT & SUITES

Enjoy open-seated There’s always plenty Choose inside or outside, dining in one of our happening on board, from balcony or suite, and we’ll two restaurants. Our watercolour workshops and find the perfect one for you experienced chefs create cookery demonstrations delicious, constantly to live music and dancing. changing menus, including Join in as much as you like, regional specialities and it’s all included in your fare traditional favourites. Even – just like our lido pool, better, it’s all included in gym, sauna and library. your fare.

CRUISES FROM JUST £999Saver fare INCLUDING: Flights, transfers, all your meals and onboard gratuities, Guest Speaker programme There is also an exciting programme of optional shore excursions available so you can tailor-make your perfect cruise.

MEDITERRANEAN GEMS OF THE AEGEAN & MEDITERRANEAN REFLECTIONS ADRIATIC SEAS ICONS 14-DAY CRUISE £999 12-DAY CRUISE £999 12-DAY CRUISE £999 FROM £71 PER PERSON PER DAY FROM £83 PER PERSON PER DAY FROM £83 PER PERSON PER DAY 23RD SEPTEMBER - 6TH OCTOBER 2015 6TH - 17 OCTOBER 2015 17TH - 28TH OCTOBER 2015

. Istanbul – the only city to straddle two continents . Athens, the oldest yet most cosmopolitan city in Europe . Dubrovnik Old Town inscribed on UNESCO’s World Heritage List . Explore the legendary city of Troy . Ancient Olympia . The beautiful Bay of Naples . Magnificent archaeological sites of Pergamum and Ephesus . UNESCO-listed ancient city of Butrint in Albania . UNESCO-listed Butrint in lesser-visited Albania . The UNESCO-listed Meteora Monasteries . Cruising the beautiful Kotor Bay . Florence and Rome – Italian icons . Visit Pella, the birthplace of Alexander the Great . Venice – a city of magnificent art and architecture . Walled city of Carcassonne . Explore ancient Athens and the Acropolis . Dubrovnik Old Town . Cosmopolitan Barcelona with its rich architecture . Shore excursions following in the footsteps of St Paul

SINGLE TO BOOK CALL 0800 987 5163 quote: woc OCCUPANCY FARES visit www.voyagesofdiscovery.co.uk or contact your local travel agent AVAILABLE

Lines are open 9am-8pm Monday-Friday, 9am-5:30pm Saturday & 10am-4pm Sunday. Calls are charged at a local rate from a BT landline. Other networks may vary. *Based on customer satisfaction questionnaires dated Jan 14 – Jan 15. Prices are correct as at 4th June 2015. Fares apply to new booking only and are based on twin cabin occupancy. Fares are subject to availability and may be withdrawn at any time. Saver fares require 100% deposit & 100% cancellation charge applies, cabin location and number will not be confirmed at time of booking. Saver fares exclude complimentary chauffeur service to the port/airport, car parking at the port, past passenger discount, back to back discount and coach transfers on all cruises. For full terms and conditions please visit www.voyagesofdiscovery.co.uk

VOD_15_1277_A4_WCA advert.indd 1 04/06/2015 12:43 76 CAPTAIN GREYBEARD WORLD OF CRUISING

R D G R E Y B E A What Viking Star means for cruising - and for the next generation

here are two main occupational hazards to being a wonderful times on board today's behemoths. writer specialising in cruise travel – and I’m not January sunshine in the Caribbean aboard 225,000-ton Ttalking here about the potential damage to my Allure of the Seas, the biggest cruise ship in the world? I’ll waistline or my liver. take that, thank you very much. But if I’m going to the The first problem is that every time I set off to see fjords in search of the Northern Lights (see Page 64) I’d another ship my friends, family, colleagues and rather be on board something like the 18,500-ton Saga workmates all assume that I’m taking yet another Pearl II, all of whose 450 passengers could just about be holiday. Listen - it might beat emptying bedpans or squeezed into one of Allure’s 18 lifeboats. sweeping the streets for a living, but it’s still work. Crossing the Atlantic in the teeth of a gale? I’ll do that in OK, I’m not feeling any warm waves of sympathy the sedate comfort of 148,500-ton Queen Mary 2 wafting in my direction, so we’ll move swiftly to the please. Although as I discovered last month, its size second hazard. makes the ship less than ideal for pootling round the Which is that every new acquaintance, some of them British Isles, having to anchor outside ports where on board those ships, others that I might meet in a bar or smaller vessels can go alongside. at a social occasion, even if they have never set foot on After one memorable cruise in the eastern anything bigger than the Isle of Wight ferry, eventually Mediterranean, aboard a ship that carries about 1,000 asks me the same question. “Go on, tell me, what’s your passengers but has room for almost twice as favourite ship?” many, I very nearly had to break my rule. I My answer has always been the same. I don’t have a began to think I had found a favourite ship, but favourite. There are so many variables, and different felt it would have been invidious to say so. ships suit different occasions. I have a sneaking All of which brings us to Viking Star, preference for the smaller vessel, but I have also had christened in Bergen last month and the CAPTAIN GREYBEARD 77 WORLD OF CRUISING

first of what Viking boss Tor in Carnival Corporation’s new “impact tourism” brand, Hagen (above) hopes will be 10 fathom. almost identical ships by 2020. Hagen is a big, bluff, 73-year-old with a mathematician’s I knew from a brief trip on one of brain and a talent for persuading investors to come up with the Viking’s 60 river cruise ships that I could expect clean, millions needed to build his river-based Longships. He plans to efficient design, albeit with a certain Nordic chill about it. have 100 of those by the end of the decade. “I’m an old man in a hurry,” he told me as he led a tour of Viking Star. did not expect to be so overwhelmed by the While I have no doubt that his insistence on perfection makes innovation, the attention to detail, and the thinking demands that inspire fear in many of his employees, I find him Ithat has been expended over every aspect of the ship immensely likeable. and its operation. All of this made Star warm and He is a genuinely warm family man. Pictures of his mother welcoming. and photographs of him as a child adorn his private suite on It’s not just the hardware, either. Hagen openly admits Star. His own son and daughter are closely involved in the adopting the “immersive cruising” concept pioneered by running of Viking, and Karine came up with many of the Azamara’s Larry Pimentel, and when it came to planning quirky concepts that very nearly make Viking Star my favourite shore excursions and enrichment experiences, he insisted ship – except I don’t have a favourite.. on following the model set by Swan Hellenic. There is one shadow, hanging like a cloud in the back of my Star and her sisters - Sky and Sea are already on order, mind. more will follow – will be in direct competition with Those 700-passenger R-ships, so successful today for Oceania, who will next year acquire a fourth R-class ship; Oceania, Azamara and others, were built in rapid succession with Azamara, who are planning multi-million pound by Renaissance Cruises – a company that overstretched itself makeovers of their two versions of the same ship. They and went bust soon after 9/11, as world economies shrank will compete against all-inclusive Regent, and super- and Americans decided they didn’t want to travel. luxury Seabourn – both of whom are launching new I just hope that Viking is not growing too rapidly, and that ships soon. when the man in a hurry eventually decides to slow down, he Viking would have been in direct competition with P&O will be able to pass on a thriving business to his family. Cruises’ Adonia, except that vessel will now be taken from the UK market and put to use carrying voluntourists CLASSIFIEDS To advertise in this section

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MOBILTY WORLD OF SPAS 79 World of Spas WORLD OF CRUISING

Cooling off at sea

Raison d’Etre, the Scandinavian spa company have launched their first spa at sea with Viking Star. Not only are the treatments and therapies based on Nordic traditions – Swedish massage, hydrotherapy pools and of course saunas, but they have also introduced the first snow room at sea, where snowflakes descend from the ceiling to chill the air and cool the body. The décor too incorporates Swedish limestone and black slate as well as juniper ave you joined the juice and teak woods. brigade? Are you now juicing and smoothing Honce, twice or three times a day? Have you spent a small fortune on a juicer, pulveriser or smoothie maker to join all that growing band of kitchen equipment on your work top. I remember in investing in a juicer years ago, using it religiously for about nine days and then abandoning it as the cleaning of the wretched thing took far longer than the juicing. I think I then bought a juicing attachment for my food processor and must have used that at least 15 times over the last 10 years. Cost per juice? Fairly

xxx astronomical. But then we do all want a healthier life – but mostly an easier one, which is why the juice market has grown in both Caribbean style supermarkets, coffee shops and dedicated juice bars. In Beverly Hills Guerlain, one of the great French beauty houses, is dipping its toes in the they have a juice ATM – you simply water of the blue of the Caribbean sea by opening its first spa in the area at pop in your credit card – key in your Cheval Blanc on St Barths. Hidden in the quiet of the hotels tropical gardens ingredients…and within minutes out are four treatment rooms, a relaxation pavilion and a hammam. Alongside pops (plops) your bespoke juice. Guerlain’s renowned body and beauty therapies are a number specially Can’t wait for them to hit the UK. devised for after sun and sea care. Jo Foley

Indian Ocean Dreams

Elemis has joined the Spa Retreat at the Conrad Rangali in While the spa at The Sun Siyam at Iru Fushi has joined the Maldives to provide signature and exclusive forced with Thalgo, the leaders in marine minerals and treatments at this magical spa on stilts. Guests can lie on plant beauty and spa treatments. Thalgo blends their 50 their massage beds while gazing at the fish and marine years of western beauty experience with ancient healing life of the reef, through the glass floor of each of the traditions from the east using ayurvedic and Chinese treatment salas. elements. 80 WORLD OF SPAS WORLD OF CRUISING

Doctors at Sea Feeling great is what we all expect after a holiday, and we want to look good too - which is what the advent of MediSpas at sea is all about. Smooth out those frown lines, soften those wrinkles…there is always a doctor on board to oblige. JO FOLEY reports

olidays, we all know, are vital to our wellbeing. They give us time to relax, time to be with our family and friends and time to refresh and Hrepair. Everybody feels and looks better after a break from regular life with its stresses and cares and even more so after a cruise holiday with sunshine, sea air and nothing to do except enjoy. Cruise companies are past masters at helping guests get the most from a holiday whether its via destinations, entertainment and of course feasting…over the last few years spas have been added to the mix, places to be However, before choosing, deciding or booking there pampered and cossetted. And alongside these pamper are several things you should know about these palaces the medi-spa has grown. A place staffed by procedures. Botox, especially, should only be doctors and nurses who not only help us feel better but administered by a qualified medical doctor so make sure also look better with the cosmetic procedures now on you ask for credentials when booking at any cruise spa. offer such as fillers and botox. You can now come back Dermal fillers can be administered by nurses who should from your holiday not just feeling a whole lot better, but, have special training. While teeth whitening provides its with a little judicious filling and tightening, looking a own set of rules and should be embarked on carefully. whole lot better too. The reason teeth whitening is so popular on board is that it is such a quick procedure and is often so much cheaper than on land. There is no doubt that whiter looking teeth instantly make anyone look better, happier, SPA AHOY! livelier. But you need to approach such a procedure carefully, whether a bleaching formula is used or the How to get ahead of the game and book faster, newer laser version. If not expertly applied, what you want, when you want bleach can not only damage tooth enamel but also the Spa treatments tend to get booked up very quickly gums, which can be painful. Laser too has the potential with each new intake of passengers. Many for pain as it is a much more aggressive treatment. passengers decide to head straight to spa reception However, should you decide to go for it ask first about before heading for their stateroom. So unless you colour change and discuss shades with your practitioner. want a scrub or pedicure at eight in the morning or Sparkling white teeth might look terrific on the telly but nine at night, check online to reserve your are quite scary in the supermarket, and can look as if appointment as soon as you have made the cruise you’ve swapped your own dear gnashers for dentures. booking. Or book a consultation with the specialist So tread slowly and insist calmly. when you arrive. Secondly, arrange to have the procedure carried out If you are planning acupuncture, then book an towards the end of your cruise, but not at the very end, in appointment early in the cruise as many conditions case you need to seek some post-procedure help. It’s will need more than one treatment. Otherwise…lie also best near the end of the journey if you wish to take back and let the experts take over to ensure that at full advantage of all the joys on offer because once the end of your holiday you not only feel better, but you’ve had the whitening you will have to eschew red will look better too. wine, coffee, cola and orange juice for a week to 10 days WORLD OF SPAS 81 WORLD OF CRUISING

in order to prevent staining. Indeed, the later you leave any semi-medi procedure during your cruise the better as often you will need to keep your face (or hands) out of the sun immediately afterwards and for a few days following. The treatments themselves can bring about some bruising, and nobody wants to look as if they’ve fallen against a door or wall or to treat pain, stress or sleep disorders. It consists of very have to wear extra heavy make-up to cover the offending fine needles used on specific ‘chi’ (energy) points to marks. relieve any blockages and toxins. The other most popular treatments involve Botox and When available on cruise ships it’s used mainly for pain Dermal Fillers. Botulinum toxin is used in various medical management and sleep disorders while some lines offer procedures to combat migraines, spasms and excessive treatments to stop smoking and aid weight loss – and sweating, but cosmetically it is used to freeze targeted there is one to deal with sea sickness! muscles such as those governing frown lines on the brow or between the eyebrows, crows’ feet at the corner of the eyes, or smile lines around the mouth. Dermal fillers, normally Restylane, Dysport or Perlane, WHERE TO FIND the are injectibles which smooth lines and small wrinkles such as the little ones between the nose and mouth or TREATMENTS the slightly larger lines known as the Marionettes (remember Lord Charles?) which run from the corners of Most of the major cruise lines offer medispa the mouth to the chin. They can also be used to add treatments such as fillers and Botox: volume to the lips. Carnival Cruises: As well as acupuncture, there is The golden rule with both Botox and fillers is less is Botox and fillers also on offer more. With fillers you get an P&O Cruises: Medispas offering dermal fillers and almost instant result but with botox Botox it takes a week to 10 days to Cunard: Queen Mary 2 provides acupuncture and see what has happened. However, chiropractic treatments you may not want to spend that Crystal Cruises offer teeth-whitening and a time shading from the sun while number of health tests including a metabolism test you’re on deck or in a pool. and a nutritional analysis Then there is acupuncture, which Norwegian Cruises: fillers, Botox, acupuncture is gaining in popularity. More than and teeth whitening. An ionithermie cellulite 3,000 years old it is now being reduction treatment is also on offer, but for this to be used not just in spas and health really effective a minimum course of three treatments resorts but in hospitals and clinics is recommended. 82 WORLD OF SPAS WORLD OF CRUISING Matt, nude, serum, powder or a simple tinted moisturiser – is the whole cover market becoming too confusing…Jo Foley explains how to find your way through the maze of foundations now on offer.

Foundation Course

ery few of us have perfect skin, except as babies, so we all need help to even out skin tones, cover minor blemishes and tiny broken veins as well as helping us look V The key in finding the perfect better to face the world. There was a time when a dab foundation for your skin type is to stick of foundation over moisturiser did the trick. All we had to what you know. If you have oily skin to do then was finish with a little powder and/ or opt for a matte finish which will help blusher. Not quite so simple now with so many keep shine under control, particularly in different choices on the market from full coverage to summer and the heat. Matte, no longer almost see-through. Where to start: means heavy, and neither does it require face powder to keep it in place, as some of the newest formulations There are two basic rules apply like cream but dry matte!. But the great thing Always choose a shade as close to your natural skin about all modern foundation formulas now…is that they tone as possible. Check against your jawline to are dedicated to giving a natural rather than a mask- ensure there isn’t a tidal mark once the foundation like finish. gets to your neck, and do make sure to sweep the Finally if foundation is not for you but you need some shade over the jaw light coverage then opt for a tinted moisturiser – a two Check the undertones of your skin – is it pink…or in one solution, it keeps the skin nourished but also yellow…it will be one of these and choose a tone helps even out skin tones. There are a host to choose from those ranges. If you’re not sure, ask at the from but one of the best is !QMS Sport Active….it may beauty counter – and remember asking does not look dark in the pot but once applied it suits most skin mean you have to buy…you are simply getting tones. Costs £66 from www.medicosmetics.com information! And never buy a new product on line…you cannot see the correct tones on a screen. Once you know your shade then buy wherever you wish New to you – The older we get opt for a lighter rather than a the best of the latest heavier texture – i.e. lotion rather than cream

Make-up supremo Bobbi Brown has just launched a foundation serum. A cover that moisturises and protects at the same time as it has an SPF of 40. Light, easy and just a few drops will do. It comes in eight shades and costs £39 from all Bobbi Brown stockists Paul & Joe have a gel foundation which comes in five shades, gives a light and even coverage…and is great for travel because it comes in compact form with its own application sponge…and is refillable. Costs £35 from ASOS.com Whether your preference is liquid, pressed or loose powder foundation then Jane Iredale’s mineral based products are all clinically tested and hypoallergenic. Better still they are water-resistant and stay put all day. Opt for the loose powder which comes in 17 shades and lasts almost forever. From £26.50. www. mineralbeauty.co.uk You dream it, WE PLAN IT

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