THE RADAR BAY WATCH: Valentino lounge on the Adriatic shore. JETSET WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK: ISTRIA BY MATT LEE MORGAN In the town of , chef/owner Marko Morgan expertly prepares dishes such as wild boar and pheasant, slaughtered on his own grounds behind the restaurant. Food doesn’t come any fresher or more wholesome than this. Call 011.385.52.774.520.

VALENTINO For a night of unparalleled romance in , ask the bartender at Valentino lounge for a pillow to sit outside on the rocks overlooking the sea. Call 011.385.52.830.683.

VALSABBION Situated high on a cliff, just south of , is the cutting-edge hotel and restaurant Valsabbion, which offers an CURVACEOUS: Istria’s striking architecture in Rovinj. outstanding 10-course tasting menu with dishes like wild oysters on crushed orange with olive oil, balsamic vinegar and RIVIERA ON THE RISE Is ’s Istrian peninsula the best-kept secret in Europe? orange juice. Call 011.385.52.218.033, or visit www.valsabbion.hr. GENERATION NEXT Europe’s cognoscenti are already calling Istria the next Saint-Tropez or Tuscany. It’s easy to see why. With its romantic Adriatic coastline, rolling geography, superb local cuisine and unique TOKLARIJA No matter how long it takes to find— mix of Slavic and Italian cultures, there’s no shortage of things to love about Croatia’s westernmost county. and it could take awhile—visit out-of-the-way The dinner table is rife with native truffles—white and black—that rival those from Alba or Périgord, and Toklarija, where chef/proprietor Nevio Sirotiç local wineries are starting to draw attention for their innovations with Muscat, Malvazija and Teran elevates Istrian fare through the stratosphere. grapes. The landscape is dotted with gorgeous medieval hilltop villages-turned-artists colonies as well as His signature dish of prosciutto, olive oil, modern hotels, resorts and nightlife as urbane as anything on the Côte d’Azur. The ancient Romans knew porcini mushrooms, truffles and grilled egg is what they were talking about when they called this idyllic peninsula “Terra Magica.” WHERE TO GO FIRST: Of sublime. Call 011.385.52.663.031. all the towns in Istria, the one you can’t afford to skip is the coastal city of Rovinj, filled with beautiful Renaissance architecture and wonderful restaurants, lounges and hotels. A gentle Adriatic breeze blows CORONICA WINERY Istrians have been making through its tiny streets, which meander among art galleries, boutiques and a bustling open-air market. THE wine for centuries. One of the best wineries OTHER ROMAN ARENA: During the summer, visit Istria’s largest city, Pula (population 90,000), and its ancient to visit is Coronica, where third-generation Roman amphitheater for outdoor concerts from such greats as Pavarotti, Bocelli and Carreras winemaker Moreno Coronica creates some (www.pulainfo.hr/en). ULTIMATE VIP ACCESS: To enjoy Croatia like a local, engage the services of tour guide and of the finest Malvasias, Muscats and Terans walking encyclopedia Aleksander Opacic ([email protected]). in the country. Call 011.385.52.730.196.

ROCCO THE AGES Hotels are popping up across Croatia at an astounding rate, and one of the most charming inns to date is the 10-room Hotel San Rocco in the sunny village of Brtonigla, located near the Slovenian border on the peninsula’s northwestern tip. A 400-year-old villa that has been expertly restored, San Rocco retains enough of its original bones—exposed beams and old stone walls—to let you know you’re sleeping in a building older than the United States. The pool, patio, spa and lounge are lovely, but the hotel’s crowning achievement is its dining room. Owner Tullio Fernetich sends his chefs to during the off season to study at Michelin three-star restaurants, and his dedication to excellence shows up in tagliatelle pasta with white Istrian truffles as well as octopus carpaccio in olive oil foam. If you don’t enjoy the wine pairings, all from Istrian grapes to match the homegrown POOL PARTY: Poolside at Hotel San Rocco in Brtonigla. cuisine, you don’t like wine. Refuse to leave until you’ve eaten the warm cuttlefish with potatoes and white truffles in a Champagne glass. Rates from $160. Call 011.385.52.725.000, or visit www.san-rocco.hr.

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