Warsaw Nno.O

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels Warsaw NNo.o. 882,2, AAugustugust - SSeptembereptember 22014014

The Warsaw Uprising Awe Inspiring - 70 Years On

inyourpocket.com ł No. 82 - 5z ȱȱ¢ȱȱȱ ȱȱ¢ȱȱ ȱȱȱȱ ȱ ȱȱĴȱȱ ǯȱȱŝǰȱ£ ȱǯǯǯȱ ǯȱŘŘȱŞŚŞȱŗŘȱŘśǰȱǯȦ¡ȱŘŘȱŞŚŞȱŗśȱşŖ ǯǯǯȱȱ ȱȱȱ ǯ£ǯǯ ǯ

ȱ ȱȱȱȱȱǰȱ¢ȱȱ ȱȱ ȱȱȱ ȱȱȱ ȱȱ¢ȱ ȱ ȱ Ěȱȱȱȱ¢ȱ¢ǯ ȱȱȱȱȱȱȱ ǳ Contents

Feature Further Afi eld Warsaw Uprising 8 Łódź 106

Arrival & Transport 12 Leisure 108

City Basics 18 Shopping 112

Culture & Events 20 Directory 118

Restaurants 26 Hotels 120

Cafés 57 Maps & Index Street Index 124 Nightlife 58 City Centre Map 125 Sightseeing City Map 126-127 Essential Warsaw 71 Country Map 128 Sightseeing 72 Listings Index 129 Old Town 84 The Royal Route 87 Features Index 130 Palace of Culture and Science 89 Praga 90 Copernicus Science Center 92 Łazienki 94 IN PRINT Wilanów 97 Jewish Warsaw 100 ONLINE Chopin 103 ON YOUR MOBILE

PLAC TEATRALNY 3, WARSAW TEL. +48 601 81 82 83

Monument to the Warsaw Uprising Photo by Zbigniew Furman. Courtesy of Warsaw Uprising Museum. [email protected] 4 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com Foreword Welcome to Warsaw and the 82nd edition of Warsaw Publisher In Your Pocket! Summer is in full swing and the city is IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. absolutely sizzling. It’s the perfect time to take advantage ul. Sławkowska 12, 31-014 Kraków the capitals’ many fi ner points - exploring the parks, [email protected] gardens (beer) and breathtaking urban riverwalks (take www.inyourpocket.com a walk on the wild side!). It’s also the heart of the tourist season, so if the weather’s down when you’re in town, head Company Offi ce & Accounts General Manager: Małgorzata Drząszcz, 606 749 676 to one of the cities amazing museums. We recommend Accountant: Joanna Szlosowska, 58 555 08 31 the Copernicus Science Center which you can read all about on page 92 (TIP-make sure to book tickets way in Circulation advance to avoid long lines) and also possibly the best 25,000 copies published every two months museum in the country - the Warsaw Uprising Museum. Editorial This Uprising Museum has particular importance in this Editor: Thymn Chase; Contributing Writer: Mat Fahrenholz; summer of 2014 as Warsaw celebrates 70th Anniversary Research Manager: Anna Hojan; Researchers: Oliwia Hojan, of the Warsaw Uprising. On this heralded occasion WIYP Kalina Klimaszewska, Sandra Wilczewska; Layout: Tomáš takes an in depth look at the Uprising - from it’s earliest Haman; Events: Anna Hojan, Janina Krzysiak; Photography: beginnings to the fi erce guerrilla fi ghting in the streets and All photographs In Your Pocket unless otherwise stated; Cover tunnels to the bloody aftermath and its enduring legacy. © Zbigniew Furman. Courtesy of Warsaw Uprising Museum. Read more in our feature on page 8. As always, you can let Sales & Circulation us know what you think about Warsaw and our guide on Kraków/Katowice/Tarnów Manager: Facebook (/warsawinyourpocket.com) or old-fashioned Monika Szymanek 668 876 351 email: [email protected]. Warszawa/Łódź Manager: Marta Ciepły 606 749 643 Wrocław/Poznań Manager: Agata Trocha 606 749 642 Gdansk/Bydgoszcz Manager: Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824 FEATURE Copyright Notice & Editor’s Note Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP Sp. z o. o., IYP City To gain perspective on just how Guides Sp. z o. o. Sp.k. Maps copyright Agencja Reklamowa POD important the Warsaw Uprising is ANIOLEM. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be and what it means today to a rebuilt reproduced in any form without written permission from the Warsaw and resurgent Polish nation, copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under one must look through the fractured license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania prism of Polish History. We put the tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent Uprising in it’s proper historical from paid-for advertising. We have made every eff ort to context and suggest where you can go in the city to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no learn more about this vital event (page 8). responsibility for changes and errors.

ABOUT IYP

We have come a long way in the 22 years since we published the ﬁ rst In Your ESTONIA Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania RUSSIA LATVIA - so much so that we are today the NORTHERN LITHUANIA IRELAND largest publisher of locally-produced IRELAND BELARUS NETHERLANDS city guides in the world. The recent POLAND GERMANY UKRAINE publication of a guide to the islands BELGIUM CZECH REPUBLIC of the Dutch Caribbean - our ﬁ rst in

AUSTRIA HUNGARY the Western Hemisphere - has taken SWITZERLAND ROMANIA GEORGIA SLOVENIACROATIA the number of guides published each ITALY BOSNIA SERBIA BULGARIA year by In Your Pocket to well over ﬁ ve MONTENEGRO FYR MACEDONIA million, spread across more than 100 ALBANIA GREECE cities on three continents. And there is more to come: make sure you keep up DUTCH CARIBBEAN with all that’s new at In Your Pocket by SOUTH AFRICA liking us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or following us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).

6 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com Warsaw Uprising any numerical supremacy the Poles could count on was ENOUGH WAS ENOUGH off set by a chronic lack of arms, and a complete dearth of August 1, 1944. Warsaw, subject to fi ve years of fascist heavy armour. Nonetheless the element of surprise caught hegemony, rose up in popular rebellion in what would go the Germans off guard, and in spite of heavy losses the on to be recorded as the largest ever uprising in the Ger- Poles captured a string of strategic targets, including the man occupied territories. With German morale in ribbons, old town, Prudential Tower (then the tallest building in a retreat from Warsaw in full swing, and the Red Army Poland), and the post offi ce. The fi rst day had cost the lives already on the east bank of the Wisła, no time seemed bet- of 2,000 Poles, yet for the fi rst time since occupation the ter than the present. Following close contact with the Pol- Polish fl ag fl uttered once more over the capital. ish government-in-exile, and assurances of Allied aid, the Home Army (Poland’s wartime military movement a.k.a Yet in spite of these initial successes there remained several the Armii Krajowy or AK) launched a military strike with concerns. Polish battle groups were spread across the city, the aim of liberating Warsaw and installing an indepen- and many had failed to link up as planned. More worryingly, dent government. several objectives had been met with disaster – the police district around (G-4) Al. Szucha remained fi rmly in German During the event the Red Army made no concerted at- hands, even more importantly, so did the airport. Hitler, tempt to help the Poles, while promises of Allied support meanwhile, was roused out of his torpor, screaming for “No proved largely empty. As for the Nazi hierarchy, they reacted prisoners to be taken,” and “Every inhabitant to be shot.” with blind rage to this stroke of Polish insolence, and what ensued was an epic 63 day struggle during which the Within days German reinforcements started pouring in, and Home Army faced the full wrath of Hitler. The most notori- on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through ous chapter of Warsaw’s history was about to be written. the western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men, women and children in what would become one of the most savage episodes of the Uprising. Indeed, it was to THE UPRISING prove a mixed fi rst week for the Poles. In liberated areas, Considering the epic scale of the bloodshed, and how behind the barricades, cultural life thrived – over 130 brutal Hitler’s tactics were in subjugating and eliminat- newspapers sprang up, religious services were celebrated ing each and every ethnic group, it’s little surprise Poland and a scout run postal service introduced. Better still, the gave birth to Europe’s largest resistance movement. Even fi rst allied air drops hinted at the support of the west. As it still, with the war moving towards its closing stages it was turned out, this was just papering over the cracks. The Ger- far from obvious that the resistance would abandon its mans, under the command of the Erich von dem Bach, partisan tactics and launch a bona fi de military assault on replied with heavy artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains the Nazis. By July 1944 the Red Army led by Marshal and tanks. Even worse, the practice of using Polish women Rokossovsky had reached the Wisla, and on July 22 a as human shields was quickly introduced. panicked Fischer ordered the evacuation of German ci- Phhotoo grag phph frof mmt the WarWa saw Uprising. Insusurgents on the baarricadeses on ul. Zielna observing the bombing of tht e PAST bub iltding. Phooto by EugE eniuszz Lokajski „Brok”. Courtesy of WarW saww Uprissingi Museum. vilians from Warsaw; sensitive papers were torched and The insurgents were a mixed bag, featuring over 4,000 destroyed, trains screeched westwards to Berlin and all women in their ranks, a unit of Slovaks, scores of Jews the signs suggested liberation was but days away. German liberated from a Warsaw concentration camp, a platoon intelligence was aware that an uprising was possible, yet of deaf and dumb volunteers led by an offi cer called Yo nothing seemed clear cut. Fischer’s appeals for 100,000 Yo, and an escaped English prisoner of war called John. Poles to present themselves to work on anti-tank defences Fantastically ill-equipped, the one thing on their side was were ignored, as were broadcasts reminding the Poles of The Warsaw Uprising their heroic battle against Bolshevism in 1923. Tensions increased with Red Army leafl et drops urging Varsovians to arms, and were further exacerbated on July 30th with a Soviet radio announcement declaring, “People of the 70 Years On capital! To arms! Strike at the Germans! May your million strong population become a million soldiers, who will drive out the German invaders and win freedom.” Still, like boxers August 1st, 2014 marks the 70th anniversary of the beginning of the Warsaw prowling the ring, each side appeared locked in a waiting game, so much so that German military despatches on the Uprising. This inspiring, though ultimately tragic chapter to the bloodiest war in afternoon of August 1, 1944 concluded with, “Warschau both Polish and World History, has become an enduring symbol of the undying ist kalm.” Warsaw was anything but. courage and strength of the Polish people and the selfl ess sacrifi ce of the few for On orders from General Tadeusz ‘Bor’ Komorowski 5pm the many. Dignitaries from all over the world will descend upon Warsaw in the signalled W-Hour (Wybuch standing for outbreak), the precise time when some 40,000 members of the Home City Centre North - Insurgents from company “Koszta” read from a coming months to join survivors in commemorating the Uprising, acknowledge Army would attack key German positions. Warsaw at the German fl yer on the corner of ul. Sienkiewicza and Marszałkowska. its legacy and honor its many heroes.. time was held by a garrison of 15,000 Germans, though Photo by Eugeniusz Lokajski „Brok”. Courtesy of Warsaw Uprising Museum. facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 9 Warsaw Uprising Warsaw Uprising an almost suicidal fanaticism and belief. Casualties were ‘Freedom came out against slavery. The fl ame of the Uprising THE LITTLE INSURGENT MONUMENT almost 20 times as high as those infl icted on the Germans, remained in people’s hearts and souls. It was passed on by the (POMNIK MAŁEGO POWSTAŃCA) yet the Poles carried on the fi ght with stoic self-assurance. baton of the generations. The spirit proved indestructible and The communist authorities continually thwarted eff orts to Air drops were vital if the uprising was to succeed, though immortal. Soldiers of the Rising. You did not die in vain.’ commemorate the Uprising, though by the early 80s cracks hopes were scuppered with Stalin’s refusal to allow Allied Lech Walesa, 1994 in their resolve were beginning to show. On October 1, 1983, planes landing rights in Soviet-held airports. Instead the the most poignant of all Uprising monuments was unveiled RAF set up a new route running from the Italian town of by the walls of the Barbakan. Designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkie- Brindisi to Warsaw, though casualty rates proved high WHAT TO SEE wicz and funded by collections undertaken by scouts, the with over 16% of aircraft lost, and the drops often inaccu- BIELAŃSKI BANK bronze installation shows the fi gure of a boy soldier clutch- rate – one such mission concluding with 960 canisters out Few remnants of the Uprising are more conspicuous than ing a Sten gun and weighed down by an adult-sized helmet. of a 1,000 falling into German hands. All hopes, it seemed, the hulking shell on ul. Bielańska. It’s got quite a history. Commemorating the children who served as messengers rested on the Russians. The site was originally home to a mint, but that found it- and frontline troops, the fi gure is inspired by the story of 13 Old Town Square, 1945 self demolished to make way for the Warsaw division of the year old corporal Antek, himself killed in action close to the After six weeks of inaction Rokossovsky fi nally gave the Imperial Bank of Russia. Designed by Leontij Nikołajewicz scene on August 8, 1944.QB-2, ul. Podwale. go ahead for a Polish force under General Berling to cross Modern studies estimate the cost of damage at around Benois, a rector of the Fine Arts Academy in St Petersburg, the river and relieve the insurgents. The operation was a fi fty four billion dollars. In human terms Poland lost much construction began in 1907 and went on for a further four debacle, and with heavy casualties and no headway made more. With the Uprising died a golden generation, the years. Within another four years the Russian’s had left, the the assault was called off . For the Russians, this single at- very foundation a new post-war Poland could build on. collapse of the Empire seeing all Tsarist subjects head back LEARN MORE tempt at crossing the Wisla was enough; Warsaw was on Those veterans who survived were treated with suspicion east with their tails between their legs. The Poles took over WARSAW UPRISING MUSEUM its own. Already by this time the situation in Warsaw’s old and disdain by the newly installed communist govern- the building, fi rst employing it as the National Treasury, then (MUZEUM POWSTANIA WARSZAWSKIEGO) town, defended by 8,000 Poles, had become untenable, ment, others were persecuted for perceived western sym- establishing it as the headquarters of Bank Polski in 1926. Opened in 2004, this remains one of Poland’s best mu- and a daring escape route was hatched through the sew- pathies. Post-war Soviet show trials convicted 13 leaders The structure became a key strategic target during the War- seums. Packed with interactive displays, photographs, ers running under the city. The Germans were now free to of the Uprising for anti-Soviet actions, and thereafter the saw Uprising, and on capture served as a base for Polish video footage and miscellaneous exhibits it’s a mu- focus on wiping out the remaining outposts of resistance, Uprising was condemned as a folly to serve the bourgeois insurgents. Smashed to pieces by German bombs the build- seum that’s guaranteed to leave a mark on all visitors. a task undertaken with glee and armour. Six hundred ends of the Polish government-in-exile. ing was left to rot in the decades that followed. Originally Occupying a former tram power station the 2,000m2 millimetre shells were landing on the centre every eight slated to house the Warsaw Uprising Museum, the bank was space is split over several levels, leading visitors through minutes, and casualties were rising to alarming rates. Sur- 70 YEARS ON subject to legal wrangles that saw that idea bite the dust. the chronological story of the Uprising (provided they render negotiations were initiated in early September, Recently Belgian property developer Ghelamco redevel- don’t make any wrong turns, alas, a common mistake). though it wasn’t till the end of the month – by which time The condemnation of the Uprising on behalf of the Post- oped the site as an offi ce complex that opened last fall. Ac- Start off by learning about life under Nazi rule, your all hope had been exhausted – that they took a concrete War Communist regimes only fueled the fervor and made cording to plans the six-fl oor building exposes parts of the Q tour accompanied by the background rattle of machine shape. Abandoned by her allies the Poles were forced to the martyrs even more heroic in the eyes of the suppressed walls of the ancient mint. B-2, ul. Bielańska 10. guns, dive bombers and a thumping heartbeat. Diff er- capitulate once more, some 63 days after they had taken Polish people. Many of the critically acclaimed Director’s ent halls focus on the many aspects of the Uprising; on the Reich. “The battle is fi nished,” wrote a eulogy in the who made regime approved fi lms in the 50’s and 60’s al- EXECUTION SITES walk through a replica radio station, or a covert print- fi nal edition of the Information Bulletin. “From the blood luded to the Uprising as a metaphor for the Polish peoples The fall of communism brought with it a huge desire to ing press. that has been shed, from the common toil and misery, struggle under communism (i.e. Andrzej Wajda’s Kanał commemorate the Uprising, which had hitherto been The mezzanine level features fi lm detailing the fi rst from the pains of our bodies and souls, a new Poland will (The Canal)). The trade union Solidarity picked up on largely erased from Polish history by anti-nationalist month of battle, before which visitors get to clamber arise – free.” this as well in the 1980’s and they used the language and communist censors. Now memorial plaques and tablets through a mock sewer. The fi nal sections are devoted to symbology of the Uprising to help solidify the opposition abound around Warsaw and though they tend to be in Pol- the creation of a Soviet puppet state, a hall of remem- THE AFTERMATH to the regime. Once the wall came down the dam literally ish only, it doesn’t take long to get the hang of them; on brance, and a particularly poignant display about the burst and there was a fl ood of interest and attention on the whole they’ll display the date and number of people destruction of the city; take time to watch the black Having deposited their weaponry at pre-designated sites, an event that had been dismissed but far from forgotten. executed by the Nazis. and white ‘before and after’ shots of important Warsaw 11,668 Polish soldiers marched into German captivity, de- Today, fi nally, the event that has come to defi ne the spirit landmarks being systematically obliterated by the Na- feated but proud. The battle had cost up to 200,000 civilian of Warsaw, is beginning to be awarded the recognition it MONUMENT TO THE WARSAW UPRISING zis as punishment. lives, while military casualties between Germans and Poles deserves. (POMNIK POWSTANIA WARSZAWSKIEGO) Near the exit check out the fi lm “City of Ruins,” a silence- would add a further 40,000 to the fi gure. Hitler was ec- It was only with the regime close to collapse that this un- inducing 5 minute 3-D aerial ‘fi lm’ which took 2 years static; with the Uprising out of the way his plan to raze You can almost feel the spirit of the Uprising in modern conventional, not to say controversial monument was un- to make and used old pictures and new technology to Warsaw could fi nally be realized. Remaining inhabitants day Warsaw, and even the country as a whole. Not only veiled. Completed in 1989 and designed by Wincent Kuc- recreate a picture of the desolation of ‘liberated’ Warsaw were exiled (though around 2,000 are believed to have are there physical reminders literally everywhere you turn ma, it depicts a group of insurgents in battle, and another Q in March 1945. seen the liberation by hiding in the ruins), and the Germans (none more visible than the ubiquitous symbol of the Up- faction retreating into the sewers. B-2, Pl. Krasińskich. There is also an exact replica of a B24 Allied plane once set about obliterating what was left of the city. “No stone rising and the Polish resistance movement - the P/W an- used to make supply drops over the besieged city. A can remain standing,” warned Himmler, and what hap- chor) but it has captured the national and even internation- RUINS OF THE RISING viewing platform and ‘peace garden’ wrap up this pened next can only be described as the methodical and al zeitgeist. In the last decade there have been countless Between 1939 and 1944 over 84 percent of Warsaw was com- high impact experienceQD-3, ul. Grzybowska 79, calculated murder of a city. Buildings were numbered ac- fi lms, documentaries and even a Polish rock band released pletely destroyed, with the city centre bearing the brunt of tel. (+48) 22 539 79 05, www.1944.pl. Open 10:00 cording to their importance to Polish culture before being a critically acclaimed concept album based on the Upris- the damage. In spite of the Herculean rebuilding work that - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. From Septem- dynamited by teams of engineers, while less historic areas ing (Lao Che’s - Powstanie Warszawskie). And perhaps has since taken place, bullet scarred walls on pre-war tene- ber open 08:00 - 18:00, Thu 08:00 - 20:00; Sat, Sun were simply burned to the ground. Nothing was spared none of us could ever forget the stirring images from the ments can still be found in relative abundance round the few 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 14/10zł (chil- the iconoclasm, not even trees. “I have seen many towns fi nal third of Roman Polanski’s The Pianist (2002) depict- parts of the centre that escaped total destruction. Perhaps dren under 7 free). Sun free. Audio guides for 10zł destroyed,” exclaimed General Eisenhower after the war, ing the heroics and ultimately devastating consequences most obvious of all is the building on ul. Waliców, featuring per person. Film costs 2zł per person. U “But nowhere have I been faced with such destruction.” of this now eternal Uprising. shell-pocked facades and a wall half-tumbling down.

10 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 11 Arrival & Transport Arrival & Transport On the ground level there is a travel offi ce run by Polish rail. TRAIN SMARTS BY TRAIN Find it on the Złote Tarasy side of the building to the right Warsaw’s main train station, Centralna, is a hulking metal of the stairs heading down to the platforms under the Cen- The Polish rail network is generally in decent shape giant that sits conveniently in the city’s center and is the trum Obslugi Klienta sign (info line 197 57, www.intercity. even if the rolling stock is by and large something you main hub for trains arriving in the capital. Additionally pas- pl). Open from 09:00 - 20:30, the multi-lingual staff (they may have travelled on in Italy some years ago. Certainly sengers may disembark at the smaller Warszawa Wschod- can even assist the deaf) can search for the cheapest/easi- better than Britain’s railways; you’ll fi nd most trains run nia on the eastern side of the Vistula river between Praga est connection, sell you international and domestic tickets, on time, are cheap, and don’t crash. Travelling times are Północ and Praga Południe districts, and Warszawa Zachod- and can help plan your trip for you. generally pretty slow even on Intercity trains with lim- nia on the border of Ochota and Wola districts to the west ited high-speed sections of track throughout the coun- of the city. The selection of outlets selling food and drink at Centralna try. That is being remedied but in turn this is causing has improved dramatically with the renovations. There are increased travelling times on many lines. Tickets are by all kinds of local and international coff ee joints, fast food western standards very cheap with a fi rst -class ticket chains and kebab shops to grab a quick bite or pass some to Kraków from Warsaw for instance setting you back time. If you have a lot of time to kill, Champions in the Mar- about 150zł (about €40). riott can be reached via the underground passageway and The state-owned Polish rail network PKP run several off ers a far better place to sit and wait than the station it- types of train. Express InterCity (EIC) trains are the fast- self, as does the nearby Złote Tarasy shopping centre. Don’t est, newest and most expensive of the lot, with fi rst and be alarmed to fi nd Warszawa Centralna used as a drop-in second class compartments holding up to six people centre by Warsaw’s homeless population - while most are and seat reservations required. New rolling stock is ap- harmless some like to pass their time being drunk and abu- pearing with open carriages and 230v AV sockets. The sive. Bizarrely, while the Polish rail staff manning the ticket Express (EX) train is less modern than the EIC but still booths are mono-lingual, the tramps in Centralna seem considered expensive, and also requires seat reserva- adept at begging in a multitude of tongues.QA/B-4, Al. tions. The EuroCity (EC) trains off er international connec- Fot. PKP S.A./ P. Krzywicki Jerozolimskie 54, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign tions and seat reservations as well. Cheapskates looking mobile phones). Open 24hrs. Note that due to system to cut costs should opt for the markedly cheaper Twoje WARSZAWA CENTRALNA TRAIN STATION maintenance seat reservations cannot be made be- Linie Kolejowe (TLK) which has second class seats that Warsaw Central Station (Warszawa Centralna) is exactly what tween 00:00 - 01:00. often require no seat reservation and fi rst class seats that it says on the tin: central. And thanks to recent renovations do; the InterREGIO (IR) trains, which are the cheapest, we’re happy to say it’s now easy to navigate as well. Centralna WARSZAWA WSCHODNIA TRAIN STATION have only second class seats and require no reservation; is looking better than it ever has with new storefronts and QH-1, ul. Kijowska 8, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from and the REGIOekspres (RE) which no longer has seat modern upgrades that will impress those who’ve been away foreign mobile phones). Open 24hrs. Note that due to reservations available online. With the budget options for a while. From alighting the train you should take one of system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made SPECIAL WEEKEND you will pay buttons for the privilege, but your journey the two facing escalators (if they’re working) in the centre between 00:00 - 01:00. is guaranteed to try your good humour. of the platform, which will lead you up into one of the un- OFFER FOR YOUR More information on train times and prices check the derground passages that fl ank the main hall. Whichever side WARSZAWA ZACHODNIA TRAIN STATION very useful www.rozklad.pkp.pl which has an English you come up on you will be one level below ground level QD-4, ul. Tunelowa 1, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from for- CAR RENTAL. option. There is the functionality to book tickets online and the ticket hall. Kantors can be found in the underground eign mobile phones). Ticket offi ce open 03:30 - 24:00. once you have registered (https://bilet.intercity.pl/irez/ passageway between Centralna and the Marriott. Signs for index.jsp). This option allows you to book a ticket and ATMs (bankomats) are everywhere, and though once sparse seat in one without the hassle of queuing at the station. the machines can be spotted at almost every turn. BY PLANE ESCAPE THE CITY TRAFFIC, If you fi nd yourself faced with long queues in the train Getting in and out of Warsaw by plane improved drastically station then you’ll be pleased to hear you can hop Tourist info can be found across the street at the Palace of in recent times. The capital’s main air hub - Chopin Airport GET ON THE OPEN ROAD on the desired train and buy a ticket direct from the Culture - just look for the ‘i’ sign (Open 08:00 - 20:00). They - got a modern overhaul, while budget carriers moved in AND EXPLORE POLAND conductor. You’ll pay a small surcharge for this (approx can provide you with maps, etc. Tickets for the public trans- at the new Modlin Airport just northwest of the city. That 15zł), and credit cards are now accepted. Travellers are port system can be bought from most of the newspaper was until winter came and the Modlin runway cracked WITH GREAT CAR RENTAL expected to greet others in their compartment with a kiosks. Left luggage is located in the underground corri- apart (bravo). It has now fi nally been repaired, but the wise PRICES FROM 98 PLN*. curt ‘dzień dobry’, and it is taken as given that a male dor that runs below the main hall. Look for Przechowalnia men at WizzAir prefer to remain at Chopin, while Ryanair passengers will help females or the elderly with any Bagażu, where stewards will look after your bag, or opt for recently resumed their fl ight schedule at Modlin. heavy baggage. one of the plentiful lockers. Connect to a Polish network via Finally most stations throughout the country are ap- mobile by getting SIM and pre-paid cards from the same WARSAW CHOPIN AIRPORT pallingly lacking in signs denoting the station name newsagents. (LOTNISKO CHOPINA W WARSZAWIE) * NET PRICE PER DAY, MIN. 3 DAYS REQUIRED, and it’s surprisingly easy to miss your stop. Commu- Warsaw Chopin Airport has recently seen the opening of ECONOMY CLASS CAR, UNLIMITED MILAGE. nicating with your fellow passengers can save a lot of Both entrances of the main hall are covered by taxi ranks, Zone CDE, a glass and steel giant that sits rather awkwardly time and frustration. and by passing via tunnels under the main road you’ll fi nd next to the older Zone AB (which is currently under major CONTACT: bus and tram stops though once you enter the signs are renovation and will remain closed until 2015). Collectively tel: +48 22 572 65 65 Arrivals Przyjazdy more of a hinderance than a help and you may never be they are called Terminal A, and the spacious CDE now www.avis.pl Departures Odjazdy seen or heard of again. Offi cially sanctioned ELE taxis can handles all incoming and outgoing traffi c. The hallway con- Platform Peron be found at the rank on Aleje Jerozolimskie and SAWA taxis necting the zones houses ATMs, exchange offi ces, tourist can be found rank on the Złote Tarasy side. info, coff ee shops and snack marts.

12 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 13 Arrival & Transport Arrival & Transport The taxi rank outside exits 1 and 2 off ers three certifi ed WARSAW MODLIN AIRPORT companies: Super Taxi, Sawa Taxi and Ele Taxi. The 15-30 minute ride to the centre costs around 35-50zł, though be on guard for unlicensed sharks who will try to charge three or four times that. After hearing several complaints, we suggest agreeing on the price with your driver before setting off . The train station can be found underground by turning right outside of whichever arrivals area you leave from and going all the way to the end of the covered section where you will find escalators taking you down to ticket booths. The SKM trains run three times per hour and are red and white in colour. Line S2 takes you to Śródmieście station in the city centre, while line S3 takes you to Warszawa Centralna station. To take one of these traffi c can become a serious problem - particularly during EU citizens may use their home driving licenses as long trains you need a normal public transport ticket (ex- the week. Most major hotels are located in the central area as they are valid, however citizens of countries that didn’t WARSAW-MODLIN AIRPORT actly the same as what you’d use for the bus) that are and you should be heading in most cases for the Central ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) (PORT LOTNICZY WARSZAWA/MODLIN) available from the ticket booths and cost 4.40zł. The KM Train Station (Dworzec Warszawa Centralna) and its neigh- will fi nd their licenses invalid (though that hasn’t stopped The brand new Modlin airport looks like a shiny over- trains run once per hour, are green and white, and will bour, the Palace of Culture (PKiN). Parking in the central anyone we know from driving their girlfriend’s car). Carry turned tin can nestled in a forest in the middle of no- take you to Centralna. They have their own ticket office area is generally available on-street where there are stan- your license and passport at all times when driving. where, although the architects may beg to diff er. After at the station with a fixed price of 5,80zł, but you can use dard parking charges payable at roadside machines. Most Since April 2007 it has been compulsory for headlights to a clumsy false start in 2012 involving a cracked runway, an SKM ticket here as long as you have the train driver major hotels will off er some form of off -road guarded park- be switched on at all times. it fi nally reopened in September 2013. WizzAir opted validate it. Got that? The train ride should take around ing. Be warned that Polish roads and Polish drivers are not not to return, while RyanAir reactivated all of their 20 minutes. Bus stops can be found in front of arrivals at the best especially if you have driven in western Europe. GUARDED PARKING Zone AB and Zone CDE. Buses run frequently between Indeed, Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road The underground parking is guarded while the other park- 26 connections across Europe including 2 domestic Q routes. 04:27 and 22:57 with journey time taking approximately fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the ing is supervised. B-3, ul. Królewska 11 (Sofi tel Warsaw The interior is clean, modern and well-equipped to 25 minutes. At night when the 175 stops running trav- pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of Victoria Hotel). ellers can take the N32 night bus, which runs every 30 poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of dif- handle international travellers with plenty of promi- Q nent signage. After collecting your luggage from one minutes. ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. (+48) 22 650 42 ferent traffi c and, most of all, drivers who have no consider- TAXIS of two belts and exiting into the main hall you’ll fi nd 20, www.lotnisko-chopina.pl. ation for anybody else result in the common sight of man- gled car wrecks around the country. Police seem unwilling all the services you could want: ATMs, an information The days when cash bells would ring whenever a cab to control irresponsible driving, and don’t be surprised to desk, bathrooms, currency exchange, travel agents, driver would hear a foreign accent might have passed, but see cars shooting through red lights, cutting each other up shops of all shapes and sizes, 2 playgrounds, vending it’s still always better to ring ahead rather than just hailing and staking a claim for the Formula 1 championship. machines, six restaurants (including a grill and bar) for a taxi in the street. In particular be vigilant when taking a The speed limit is 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between more legitimate meals and six car rental companies. cab to the centre from the arrivals hall of the airport; we’ve 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/ Those looking to end up in Warsaw city center have heard plenty of horror stories. The accepted fare from War- hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways. three main options for transport: grab a cab or private saw Chopin Airport to the centre is 35-50zł; we suggest Seat belts must be worn at all times and it is illegal for driv- shuttle, take a bus to the capital, or board one of the that you agree upon this price with your driver before set- ers to use hand-held mobile phones. Following the letter green and yellow shuttles that will take you to Mod- ting off in order to ensure avoiding any shenanigans. of the law all cars should be equipped with a fi rst aid kit, lin Train Station where you then take a train to your All the companies we list will usually have someone warning triangle, fi re extinguisher, rear mud fl aps and right destination. Koleje Mazowieckie train route is economi- on their switchboard who can speak English. MPT, the and left hand outside mirrors. Flouting the rules will cost cal (15zł for shuttle and train) although slightly time state-run fi rm, can boast the most reliable reputation, you 200zł (for using a mobile), 100zł (not wearing a seat consuming (45 minutest +5 minutes shuttle bus). If but you won’t fi nd many cheaper than Super Taxi. Find belt) and up to 500zł for speeding. The legal limit for drink money isn’t an option, the airport recommends two Warsaw Chopin Airport Boston9/wikipedia/CC BY-SA 3.0 ELE taxis on the Marriott tower side of the central sta- driving is 0.2‰ blood/alcohol level. Put simply, if you’re taxi companies Sawa Taxi and Taxi Modlin currently tion; it’s the second row of cars. Tipping is not expected, driving, don’t drink. off er transport to the city centre from 119 PLN between but if your driver gets you from A to B without a detour WARSAW SHUTTLE 6 and 24 o’clock (from 149 at night). through the countryside then by all means, feel free. Translud is the cheapest overall transport option The company off ers private airport transfer services at com- Q (8PLN) but Modlin Bus is faster more convenient petitive prices from 79PLN per run. Highest quality for the ELE TAXI tel. (+48) 22 811 11 11, www.eletaxi.pl. best possible price. Call in advance to book or book online. HALO TAXI O’KQtel. (+48) 22 196 23, (brand new busses with comfortable seats and WiFi on Q board) and doesn’t involve annoying transfers. For a full tel. (+48) 506 17 54 95, www.warsawshuttle.com. www.halotaxiok.pl. listing of Modlin Airport Transfer services check our MERC TAXIQtel. (+48) 22 677 77 77, our online guide. BY CAR www.6777777.pl. You can buy tickets for the Koleje Mazowieckie train Q and Modlin Bus at one of their stands located in the Warsaw is located in the heart of the country and has ex- MPT tel. (+48) 22 191 91, www.taximpt.pl. Q baggage hall or at arrivals near the exit doors.Qul. tensive road links with other major Polish cities. Having said SAWA TAXI tel. (+48) 22 644 44 44, Gen. Wiktora Thommee 1a, Nowy Dwór Mazowiecki, that the competition on the road’s front isn’t fi erce. Roads www.sawataxi.com.pl. tel. (+48) 22 346 43 63, www.modlinairport.pl. leading into Warsaw tend to be of decent dual carriageway SUPER TAXIQtel. (+48) 22 196 22, www.supertaxi.pl. standard, though once you enter the city limits Warsaw

14 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 15 Arrival & Transport Arrival & Transport

BY BUS PUBLIC TRANSPORT CAR RENTAL A wide range of cars If you come to Warsaw by bus, odds are you’ll be landing Warsaw has an extensive from the Fiat Panda at the main bus station on Al. Jerozolimskie, while budget bus and tram system Avis provide short-term and to the spacious Mer- options like PolskiBus drop passengers off at Dworzec Au- criss-crossing the city as long-term rentals, chauf- cedes E-class. All cars tobusowy Metro Wilanowska, a short distance from the well as a good, but very feur drive service as well as are equipped with power assisted steering. Satellite Metro Wilanowska stop. limited, metro system cargo van rentals. There’s over 1,000 models available, navigation systems are also available. Special rates of- equipped with air-conditioning, air bags and ABS for fered to those who order through the Joka website, and running from north to Q MAIN BUS STATION south. Over 1,500 buses your guaranteed comfort and safety. Also possible to go online to fi nd the latest seasonal promotions. D-2, (DWORZEC AUTOBUSOWY operate in and around exchange and swap cars. Also at Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 ul. Okopowa 47, tel. (+48) 609 18 10 20, www.joka. (B-4, Marriott Hotel) and ul. Łopuszańska 12a (Włochy). com.pl. Open 09:00-17:00, Sat 09:00-12:00. Closed WARSZAWA ZACHODNIA) the city, and most run Q Coaches arrive and depart - unless otherwise stated from between 05:00 and ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 48 Sun. Outside of these hours open on request. - from the Warsaw West Bus Station (Dworzec Autobu- 23:00. After that night 72, www.avis.pl. Open 07:00 - 23:30. sowy Warszawa Zachodnia). Find a currency exchange buses run on most routes and two ATM (bankomat) machines located in the main twice every hour. All night One of the world’s largest and hall. There is no Tourist Info point, for the closest you’ll buses display the letter N, One of the worlds oldest car rental companies of- have to make the journey into the Palace of Culture, Pl. followed by a two digit number. ‘Fast buses’ (marked with biggest car rental fers a choice of solutions from Defi lad 1 (entrance from ul. Emill Plater). There’s a legiti- red digits) skip the smaller stops. companies off ers short and long rental periods mate left-luggage operation, as well as fi ve payphones rental solutions tailor made for travellers (both short to holiday cars. There’s even a fl eet of limousines if located in one of the side corridors (though you’ll need Tickets (all valid for use on metro, bus and tram) can be and long term) that will suit all needs (9 diff erent cat- you’re interested. Vehicles range from Seats to luxury to buy phone cards to use them). You can do that by vis- bought from some kiosks bearing the green and yellow Mercedes. Bonuses include GPS and Sixt cards. Also at egories of cars are available; Europcar is present at all Q iting one of the Relay kiosks in the main hall. You’ll also RUCH logo, or anywhere with a sign reading Bilety. There Polish airports and many other convenient locations). ul. Emilii Plater 49 (A-4, InterContinental Hotel). ul. be able to buy SIM cards, prepaid cards and transport are now also a series of ticket machines with instructions in Europcar creates fl exible driving solutions to meet your Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 20 31, cards from here. Taxis to centre run between 20-30zl English dotted around the city, and English translations are individual mobility needs. Note that the Radisson Blue www.sixt.pl. Open 07:00 - 23:30, Sat 07:00 - 22:00, (refuse a lift from any of the smiling unlicensed opera- printed on tickets. Sobieski is a meeting point (cars can be picked up and Sun 08:00 - 23:00. tors who off er you a lift). The bus running to the centre dropped off here).Qul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. is found right across a busy highway and getting there is A standard public transport single ticket costs BUDGET (+48) 22 650 25 64, www.europcar.pl. Open 07:00 - Q an adventure in itself seeing there are no signposts in the 4.40zł. If you’re travelling to the further reaches of 23:00. ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 40 62, subway leading there. Basically from the main hall duck Warsaw you’ll be needing a ticket that covers both www.budget.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00. down under the sign saying Dworzec PKP, head down zones 1 and 2 - these are priced at 7zł. Note that the the stairs, turn right, follow the corridor to its conclu- airport is in Zone 1. Still with us? Good. There is also a sion, turn right again - you’ll see two stairwells leading 20 minute ticket priced at 3.40zł. Tickets valid for 24 to the surface. Take the left one and presto, there’s your hrs are priced at 15 or 26zł if travelling through both bus stop. Confused? Not half as much as we were. Good zones. They have also introduced a new weekend work Warsaw. To get to Central Station take bus number ticket (avaible from 19:00 on Friday till 08:00 on Mon- 127,158 or 517. At night you’ll be needing and N35 or day) which costs 24 zł (also a weekend group ticket is N85. The journey takes approximately 15 minutes so buy available for up to 5 people and costs 40 zł). Children a 3,40zł ticket valid for 20 minutes. Remember to validate ride free until the end of the August of the year your ticket on boarding.QD-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 144, they turn 7. (Really. Probably makes sense with vodka. tel. (+48) 703 40 33 30, www.pksbilety.pl. Ticket offi ce Have proof of age ID handy). Everyone else pays full open 05:30 - 22:00. fare unless in possession of an ISIC card (in which case you must be 26 and under). This entitles you to buy POLSKIBUS a reduced ticket (ulgowy) which costs approximately Note that the Warsaw-Gdańsk route leaves from Metro 50% of the full fare. Młociny.Qul. Puławska 145 (Dworzec Autobusowy Met- ro Wilanowska, stance 14), www.polskibus.com. You can buy single tickets from machines on most trams and busses or from the driver, though you must have exact change. Once you’ve got a ticket you will need to validate it PRIVATE TRANSPORT in one of the box-style kasowniks, thus activating the mag- HELICOPTER.PL netic strip on the back. On the metro this must be done Why travel with the masses when you can opt for your own before you get on board. It is no longer necessary to buy private fl ight in a helicopter? Helicopter.pl off ers fl ights an extra ticket for animals or large pieces of luggage. Plain throughout Poland via hubs in Warsaw and Wrocław. clothes ticket inspectors regularly stalk the lines, dishing Flights take place in Eurocopters, which are renowned for out 266zł for those without valid tickets (we understand their safety and modern design. Provide the number of quick payment results in the fi ne being lessened). They of- people (and luggage) as well as your desired destination ten don’t look very offi cial and you are within your rights to the staff and they’ll draw up a quote.Qul. Księżycowa to request identifi cation, or even do as the locals do, and 3 (Bielany), building #15, tel. (+48) 509 26 04 00, www. attempt to bargain them down.Qtel. (+48) 19 115, www. helicopter.pl. ztm.waw.pl.

16 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 17 City Basics City Basics are by in large harmless and easily ignored. Warsaw’s right FACTS & FIGURES MARKET VALUES bank has traditionally enjoyed something of a no-go repu- LANGUAGE SMARTS tation, though is now fast becoming ever more trendy. Territory Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite Staying on the right side of the law is signifi cantly easier for Many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers and increases over the last couple of years particularly in tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are rocket command of the English language. Many are also adept is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday fuel and drink accordingly. If you’re determined to make an at other European languages with German being the most Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic Sea products and prices. Market values as of July 21, 2014 idiot of yourself then make sure it’s not in front of the law. commonly spoken. Older Poles will fi ercely contest that they have ‘forgotten’ the Russian taught to them at school (528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), based on €1 = 4.11zł In recent years visitors ranging from folks in Chewbacca Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian but most will still have a reasonable understanding. McDonald's Big Mac 9.50 zł € 2.31 costumes to complete fools who’ve thought it’s perfectly ac- Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal, exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and, ceptable to drop trousers and urinate in a city centre fountain Ukraine (529km). Snickers 1.69 zł € 0.41 often resulting in personal degradation as shop assistants have tested the patience of the local law enforcement. Their laugh at your fl ustered attempts. That aside, learning a few 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 23.99 zł € 5.84 tolerance threshold is now decidedly low so don’t push your key phrases will smooth your time in Warsaw and may Longest River 0.5ltr beer (shop) 2.99 zł € 0.73 luck. Those who do may well be treated to a trip to Warsaw’s even win you friends and admirers. Warsaw is split by the river Vistula (Wisła). At 1,047km 0.5ltr beer (bar) 9.00 zł € 2.19 premier drunk tank (ul. Kolska 2/4), a chastening experience On the downside, Polish is one of the most diffi cult lan- it is Poland’s longest river and fl ows into the Bay of which will set you back 250zł for an up to 24 hour stay. In guages for native English speakers to learn. On the upside, Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska). Loaf of white bread 1.59 zł € 0.39 return for your cash expect a strip search, a set of blue pyja- unlike in English, words in Polish are spelled the way they 20 Marlboros 14.70 zł € 3.58 mas and the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Not to are pronounced. This is a great help once you know how to Highest Point 1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 5.62 zł € 1.37 mention a hefty fi ne (credit cards not accepted, of course). pronounce each letter/combination of letters. While many The highest peak in Poland is Rysy (2,499 metres) found letters represent the same sounds as they do in English, in the Tatra mountains in the south of Poland. Local transport ticket (1 journey) 4.40 zł € 1.07 below we have listed those particular to Polish, followed RELIGION by some basic words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)! Population (2013) For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Basic Pronunciation Poland - 38,502,396 English, German and Russian speakers have the option of Catholicism, fi ghting against the horrors of pagan invasions ‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’ Warsaw - 1,718,219 using separate lines specifi cally designed for foreigners in and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ Kraków - 758,940 distress: dial +48 608 599 999 or +48 22 278 77 77. Both unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’ Łódź - 715,360 ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘ numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land many turned to the church for solace and during the com- ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’ Wrocław - 631,263 line and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles dur- munist era, underground resistance meetings were surrep- ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’ Poznań - 549,082 ing your stay. The lines are active year round with later titiously held in churches. The deceased Polish-born Pope ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’ Gdańsk - 460,815 hours during the high-tourist season. John Paul II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’ Katowice - 305,995 If you’ve woken up to fi nd you’ve got a raging headache, a and is beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’ ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’ swollen foot you can’t put weight on and vague memories West can understand. Many Poles genuinely believe that ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’ Local Time of some kind of calamity we suggest you sort it out by call- John Paul II single-handedly started the overthrow of Com- ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’ Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone ing a private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the notori- munism in Central and Eastern Europe. Small wonder then, ‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’ (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Warsaw it’s 11:00 in Lon- ously long queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private clin- that your average Pole takes Catholicism very seriously. ‘r’ is always rolled don, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish ics can be found in the Directory in the back of this guide. Polish Words & Phrases summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates, Yes Tak (Tahk) Sundays of March and October. a list of which can also be found in the Directory. If it’s a fi - WARSAWPASS No Nie (Nyeh) nancial emergency your hopes will rest on a Western Union Hi/Bye (informal) Cześć (Cheshch) NEW Hello/Good day (formal) Dzień dobry (Jen doh-bri) money transfer. Most banks and many exchange bureaus A rather nifty little card available ELECTRICITY (kantors) can now carry out such transactions, just keep an Good evening (formal) Dobry wieczór (Doh-bri vyeh-choor) from Tourist Information points at Good-bye Do widzenia (Doh veet-zen-ya) Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are eye out for the Western Union logo. the Palace of Culture, The Old Town Good Night Dobranoc (Doh-brah-noats) round with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are For a list of clinics and hospitals check the directory section or simply upon arrival at Chopin Airport (see Tourist Please Proszę (Prosheh) coming from the UK or Ireland you are defi nitely going to at the back of this guide. Thank you Dziękuję (Jen-koo-yeh) Information on page 81). For a one-off payment of Excuse me/Sorry Przepraszam (Psheh-prasham) need a plug convertor. The best place to pick these up is at 159zl the card allows you access to Warsaw’s top ten My name is... Mam na imię... (Mam nah ee-myeh…) home as our residents Brits will testify although if you do tourist sites, the tourist ‘Hop on, Hop off ’ bus service arrive without a covertor you can try your hotel concierge LAW & ORDER I’m from England. Jestem z Anglii (Yehstem zanglee) and discounts on various tours and at restaurants. Do you speak English? Czy mówisz po angielsku? (Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?) or reception. If they don’t have one the best place to pick In general Warsaw is far safer than most Western cities, and All participating venues and services are listed in the I don’t speak Polish. Nie mówię po polsku. (Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.) one up is at one of the big electrical outlets often situated visitors are unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime does guide book you will receive when purchasing the card. I don’t understand. Nie rozumiem. (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.) on the edge of town. Our advice is save yourself the hassle exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets Two beers, please. Dwa piwa proszę. (Dvah peevah prosheh.) A useful option is that the card also allows you to ‘skip Cheers! Na zdrowie! (Nah zdrovyeh!) and get one in the airport as you leave. working tram and bus routes by the train station. If you’re the queue’ at fantastically popular attractions like The in a bar or a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser Where are the toilets? Gdzie są toalety? (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih) Copernicus Science Centre - take our word for it, this You are beautiful. Jesteś piękna. (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.) HEALTH & EMERGENCY pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those can save you hours! The 72 hour validity starts after the I love you. Kocham cię. (Ko-hahm chuh.) travelling by car are advised to use a guarded car park. fi rst time you use the card, but do keep in mind that Please take me home. Proszę zabierz mnie (Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or pub- Avoid being ripped off by opportunistic taxi gits by using do domu. doh-moo.) it won’t be much use to you when you’re fast asleep Call me! Zadzwoń do mnie! (Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!) lic phone should use the following numbers: 999 for an am- clearly marked cabs, something to bear in mind around at night and also be aware that some participating Airport Lotnisko (Lot-nees-ko) bulance, 998 for the fi re brigade and 997 for the police. Mobile the train station and airport. The offi cially sanctioned state museums are closed on Mondays! Places in the guide phone users should call 112 to be forwarded to the relevant de- company MPT (tel. 22 19191) is possibly the best bet, and Train station Dworzec PKP (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh) which accept WarsawPass card are marked with the Bus station Dworzec PKS (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess) partment. English speaking assistance is not necessarily guar- their switchboard features English speaking operators. The Y icon. Qwww.warsawpass.com. One ticket to… Jeden bilet do… (Yeh-den bee-let doh…) anteed, and rests on the linguistic capabilities of the operator. vagrants and pondlife who gather around the train station

18 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 19 Culture & Events Culture & Events CONCERTS CHOPIN CONCERTS 17.08 SUNDAY PATTI SMITH American singer-songwriter and poet Patti Smith is hailed as the “godmother of punk” - her infl uence began with her 1975 debut album Horses. In 2007 the gal was inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. Now in her sixties, Patti is still going strong, touring and releasing new albums. Her newest, Banga, came out in 2012.QSowiński Park Am- phitheatre, ul. Elekcyjna 17 (Wola), www.makroconcert. com/pl. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 110-230zł. Avail- Photo by T. Tarnowski/Stołeczna Estrada. able at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Złote Tarasy, B-3, ul. Złota 59; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00). 18.05 SUNDAY - 28.09 SUNDAY CHOPIN CONCERTS IN ROYAL ŁAZIENKI PARK Visiting Poland and not attending a Chopin concert is FESTIVALS like... going to the Vatican without seeing the Pope, as 04.07 FRIDAY - 30.08 SATURDAY a certain saying goes. It’s beautiful out this time of year JAZZ AT THE OLD TOWN SQUARE FESTIVAL (okay - most of the time), and the Łazienki park is lushly If you are a jazz lover this is a great series of concerts taking green and soothing and lovely - even more so when place every Saturday in the picturesque surroundings of War- you’re listening to masterfully played piano music. The saw’s old town. Running from July 5 to August 30 you’ll see big concerts fi ttingly take place underneath the Chopin international names playing alongside the biggest names in statue, and their tradition goes back to 1959, with the Polish jazz. Check out their website for a full schedule of whose festival changing and evolving over the fi fty-fi ve year playing when and don’t forget its for free. Book yourself a table that followed. Free admission, what else could you pos- JewJeJewewiishisshh CuC ltututuree Fesesestivivival:al:: SiS ngenggeerr’r’s WaWarsrsaw. in one of the restaurants overlooking the square and treat sibly want? A fantastic way to relax and unwind this yourself to some excellent live music to accompany your meal. is.QG-4, Royal Łazienki Park, ul. Agrykoli 1, www. Q B-1/2, Rynek Starego Miasta, www.jazznastarowce.pl. estrada.com.pl. Concerts start every Sun at 12:00 ART GALLERIES OPERA STAGES Concerts take place every Sat at 19:00. Full schedule avail- and 16:00. Admission free. STAIRS GALLERYQC-3, ul. Nowy Świat 39, tel. (+48) GREAT THEATRE - NATIONAL OPERA able at www.jazznastarowce.pl. Admission free. 22 828 89 43, www.galeriaschody.pl. Open 13:00 - QB-2, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. (+48) 22 692 02 08, www. 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. teatrwielki.pl. Box offi ce open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. From September open 09:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 ZACHĘTA - NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART - 19:00. Autumn season starts in September. Tickets 28- QB-3, Pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, 160zł. www.zacheta.art.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Y Admission 15/10zł, Thu free. THEATRE STAGES DRAMA THEATRE CINEMAS QB-4, Palace Of Culture, Pl. Defi lad 1, tel. (+48) 22 656 LUNAQF-4, ul. Marszałkowska 28, tel. (+48) 22 621 78 68 44, www.teatrdramatyczny.pl. Box offi ce open 12:00 28, www.kinoluna.pl. Box offi ce open depending on - 19:00. Autumn season starts in September. Tickets 20- repertoire. Tickets 8-24zł. 80zł.

MULTIKINO ZŁOTE TARASY NATIONAL THEATRE QA-4, ul. Złota 59, tel. (+48) 22 462 81 10, www. QB-2, Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. (+48) 22 692 06 09, www. multikino.pl. Box offi ce open from 09:00 to 15 minutes narodowy.pl. Box offi ce open from August 26: 11:00 after the last showtime. Tickets 19-35zł. - 14:30, 15:00 - 19:00; Sun depending on repertoire. Closed Mon. Autumn season starts in September. Tick- CULTURAL CENTRES ets 40-90zł. JIDYSZ CULTURAL CENTRE TR WARSZAWA QE-1, ul. Andersa 15, tel. (+48) 22 620 47 33, www. QG-4, ul. Marszałkowska 8, tel. (+48) 22 480 80 08, jidyszland.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. www.trwarszawa.pl. Box offi ce open from August 18: 11:00 - 14:30, 15:00 - 19:00; Mon 11:00 - 16:00, Sun 13:00 UJAZDOWSKI CASTLE - 19:00 and before the spectacle. Autumn season starts QG-4, ul. Jazdów 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 64 08, www.csw. in September. Tickets 40-120zł. art.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/6zł, Thu free.

20 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 21 Culture & Events Culture & Events 06.07 SUNDAY - 21.09 SUNDAY ARCHCATHEDRAL ORGAN FESTIVAL MISC. EVENTS WARSAW CHAMBER OPERA If you’re not satisfi ed with the Bach festival, don’t worry, 22.09 MONDAY there’s more organ music! Even if you’re not the religious AN EVENING WITH AL PACINO type, head over to church any - or every - Sunday between Interview and Q&A with Tony Montana - err, Al Pacino.That’s July 6th and September 21st for a beautiful soul-stirring ex- right, the Oscar and Golden Globe laureate, known from The perience. Performers hail from across Europe as well.QB-2, Godfather trilogy, Scarface, Scent of a Woman, will be in Warsaw St. John’s Cathedral, ul. Świetojańska 8, tel. (+48) 501 15 to talk about his life and answer your questions.This is only the 84 77, www.kapitula.org. Concerts start every Sunday at fi rst talk in the “An Evening with...” series organised by the Na- 16:00. Tickets 10zł. Available before the concerts. tional Opera, which will welcome some of Hollywood’s biggest stars.QB-2, Great Theatre - National Opera, Pl. Teatralny 1, 02.08 SATURDAY - 30.09 TUESDAY www.stageproduction.pl. Event starts at 19:30. Tickets 500- CHINESE LANTERNS FESTIVAL 2500zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Złote Tara- A Chinese lanterns festival in Eastern Europe might strike sy, B-3, ul. Złota 59; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00). you as one of those new-agey fads stemming from an increasingly globalised world - much like the recent rise of Holi The Warsaw Chamber Opera was founded in 1961 by festivals in the West. However, there is a perfect historical jus- SPORT Stefan Sutkowski, who has served as its Managing and tifi cation for this event, as it relates back to King Stanisław Au- 16.08 SATURDAY Artistic Director ever since. The company’s inaugural gust Poniatowski’s love for Chinese art. Indeed, the lanterns SUPER MATCH: REAL MADRID CF VS. ACF production, performed on the 4th September 1961, will be displayed along the Chinese Avenue in Łazienki Park FIORENTINA Q was Pergolesi’s La Serva Padrona. Since October 1986 (and illuminated daily until 11 pm). G-4, Royal Łazienki The World Cup may be over, but the football spectacles the Opera has performed at its own theatre, a listed Park, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Admission free. aren’t; head over to the National Stadium to see current building dating from 1775 whose audience contributes UEFA champions Real Madrid battle Italian club Fiorentina. to the acoustic sound created. 23.08 SATURDAY - 31.08 SUNDAY The last time Real played in Poland was six years ago, when Q JEWISH CULTURE FESTIVAL: SINGER’S WARSAW they took on Wisła Kraków. H-2, National Stadium, Al. The repertoire of the Warsaw Chamber Opera spans a Jewish culture festivals abound in Poland, especially in Księcia J. Poniatowskiego 1, www.super-mecz.pl. Event wide variety of musical styles and genres: from medi- Kraków and Warsaw, both large cities with a rich Jewish his- starts at 20:30. Tickets 190-950zł. Available at www. eval mystery plays to the operas of the Baroque and tory. Singer’s Warsaw - the Singer in question being Isaac ebilet.pl and Empik (Złote Tarasy, B-3, ul. Złota 59; open Classical periods, 18th century pantomimes, the operas Bashevis Singer, a Polish-Jewish novelist and Nobel Prize 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00). by Rossini and Donizetti, as well as works by contem- laureate - is a yearly festival of music, fi lm, literature, and vi- porary composers. sual arts, and this year’s edition will be heavy on theatre. One LA PLAYA highlight will be the Polish premiere of Shohat’s Robot Planet, Q The Warsaw Chamber Opera ensembles also give a play inspired by Stanisław Lem’s Fables for Robots. www. regular concerts featuring chamber, oratorio, and sym- 23.05 FRIDAY - 25.09 THURSDAY festiwalsingera.pl. Ticket prices undecided at press time. phonic music of various epochs. In 1984 the Warsaw LA PLAYA MUSIC BAR Chamber Opera established the Research and Docu- One of the best parts about Warsaw in summer, and 24.09 WEDNESDAY - 28.09 SUNDAY mentation Centre of Early Polish Music. It deals with the what keeps everyone going in the midst of the ach- CROSS CULTURE FESTIVAL research, publication, performance and recording of ingly cold winters, is the seasonal La Playa Music Bar. Cross Culture is a music festival with the aim of opening up to newly-discovered works by Polish composers. Opening again for the eighth summer in a row it plans cultural and artistic variety and “journeying into the most interest- to be available until the fi rst chill hits the air, which ing musical regions”. Last year’s theme was Islands of the World, The music of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart has long oc- means you have plenty of summer nights to linger at and the artists lived up to the expectation in that regard, hailing cupied a prominent place in the company’s repertoire. this sand-fi lled venue. This unique music club is situ- from locations as far apart as Trinidad and Tobago, Reunion, and The Warsaw Chamber Opera is the only company in ated on the shores of the Vistula riverside, and it’s an Sardinia. This year so far only one artist has been announced - re- Q the world to have Mozart’s entire operatic output in its attractive alternative if you’re in the capital this sum- nowned African jazz trumpeter Hugh Masekela. www.festival. permanent repertoire and this unprecedented achieve- mer and don’t want to sip your drink while steaming warszawa.pl. Ticket prices undecided at press time. ment has won the Warsaw company-wide internation- amongst concrete buildings. La Playa off ers the possi- al recognition. In addition to this the Warsaw Chamber bility to spend time outside, dance zumba, play beach Opera has also organized the 4th Claudio Monteverdi volleyball, frisbee and badminton tournaments, use the LIVE MUSIC Festival, The Celebrations to Mark 400 Years of Opera as skimboard track or just chill out on a deck chair. And on 01.05 THURSDAY - 04.10 SATURDAY a Genre, and An Ode to Europe Festival. weekends La Playa organizes salsa themed evenings for BAROQUE ORGANS a little culture with your cocktail. So give yourself a day If you’re sightseeing in Warsaw and plan on visiting New projects launched in 2013 include Friday concerts off at the beach, relax with a drink and listen to chillout churches, you might as well pop in for an organ concert at the Royal Łazienki Museum, Wednesday concerts at music and take in the view of the old town over the to complete the experience. Held in the beautiful 15th- the Dominican Church, the educational cycles Family river. Just be sure to bring your own sunscreen or those century St. Anne’s Church (one of the oldest buildings in Music Matinees and Opera Lovers’ Box, the Youth The- beachy memories will be tinged with pain.QC-1, ul. the Polish capital), these concerts are both moving and Q Q atre, and the Marionette Theatre. A-1, Al. Solidarności Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5, tel. (+48) 22 331 49 75, www. very aff ordable. B-2, St. Anne’s Church, ul. Krakowskie 76b, tel. (+48) 22 625 75 10, www.operakameralna. laplaya.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00; Przedmieście 68, www.kapitula.org. Concerts start at STRATEGIC PARTNER PARTNER MEDIA PATRONAGE pl. Box offi ce open 11:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 3 hours be- Warsaw Chamber Opera Sun 10:00 - 01:00. Admission free. 12:00 except for Sundays and holidays. Tickets 10zł. is subsidised by the Mazovia Province fore the performance. Closed Mon. Tickets 30-130zł. Family ticket 20zł. Available before the concert.

22 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 23 Culture & Events 05.09 FRIDAY - 07.09 SUNDAY INDOOR WINDSURFING Seemingly impossible? Nah, if Dubai can build and main- tain an indoor ski slope, then some artiﬁ cial waves at a European stadium should hardly pose a problem. 30 huge fans - the inanimate type - will provide a wind of up to 37 knots for the “ultimate indoor windsurﬁ ng showdown”. There will be slalom, jump, and freestyle divisions.QH- 2, National Stadium, Al. Księcia J. Poniatowskiego 1, www.pwaworldtour.com. On Fri event starts at 17:00, Sat at 18:00 and Sun at 13:00. Tickets 20-100zł. VIP pass 699zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Złote Tarasy, B-3, ul. Złota 59; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).

20.09 SATURDAY VERVA STREET RACING Dakar is coming to the National Stadium! Quite literally. The venue will be converted to a desert-scape with sand dunes to make this year’s auto race all the more interesting. This is the biggest automotive festival in this part of Europe! Polish ski-jumper turned race car driver Adam Małysz will be there, and so should you.QH-2, National Stadium, Al. Księcia J. Poniatowskiego 1, www.vervastreetracing.pl. Event starts at 14:00. Tickets 76-109zł. VIP tickets 279- 399zł. Available at www.ebilet.pl and Empik (Złote Tarasy, B-3, ul. Złota 59; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).

23.08 SATURDAY THEATRE KAMILA SKOLIMOWSKA WARSAW MEMORIAL 19.09 FRIDAY - 28.09 SUNDAY Kamila Skolimowska was a Polish hammer thrower CIRQUE DU SOLEIL: KOOZA and Olympic gold medalist who tragically died of a Cirque du Soleil, the absolute top-notch acrobatic cir- pulmonary embolism in 2009 - at the age of just 26. cus act from Quebec, are bringing to Warsaw audiences Now, for the 5th time, the athlete will be commemo- their zany show Kooza, which tells the story of The In- rated with a sports extravaganza, the biggest star of nocent, an introverted loner searching for his purpose which will be no other than Usain Bolt, competing in life. Here’s hoping that all goes according to plan - the with the likes of Kim Collins and Richard Kilty.QH-2, company has suffered some serious accidents in recent National Stadium, Al. Księcia J. Poniatowskiego 1, months.QH-2, National Stadium Meadow, Al. Księcia www.memorialkamili.pl. Event starts at 16:00. Tick- J. Poniatowskiego 1 (entrance from Al. Zieleniecka), ets 39-199zł. Available at www.ebilet.pl and Empik www.cds-kooza.pl. Performance starts at 13:00 and (Złote Tarasy, B-3, ul. Złota 59; open 09:00 - 22:00, 16:30 on September 20; 13:30 and 17:00 on Septem- Sun 09:00 - 21:00). ber 21; 16:30 and 20:00 on September 19, 26 and 27; 19:00 on September 28; 20:00 on September 23, 24 30.08 SATURDAY and 25. Tickets 132-374zł. VIP tickets 795zł. Available VOLLEYBALL MEN’S WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Złote Tarasy, B-3, POLAND 2014: POLAND VS. SERBIA ul. Złota 59; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00). During the opening match for this year’s Volleyball Behind the scene tickets 1500zł. Available at www. World Championship, watch Poland destroy Ser- tickets.cirquedusoleil.com. bia (or so Polish fans hope). Hey, it might not be the football world cup, but emotions are sure to run high regardless.QH-2, National Stadium, Al. Księcia J. Poniatowskiego 1, www.poland2014. What’s going on? fivb.org. Event starts at 18:00. Tickets 50-400zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Złote facebook.com/ Tarasy, B-3, ul. Złota 59; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun WarsawInYourPocket 09:00 - 21:00).

24 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com Restaurants Restaurants

SYMBOL KEY

G No smoking T Child-friendly 6 Animal friendly N Credit cards not accepted B Outside seating U Facilities for the disabled S Take away X Smoking room available V Home delivery E Live music I Fireplace W Wi-ﬁ connection Y WarsawPass tourist discount card

AFRICAN CAFÉ BAOBAB A million miles away from its previous incarnation as Sax - the legendary down at heel haunt of poet Agnieszka Osiecka, this venue is now a Senegalese bar and restaurant. Run by former basketballer and champion cocktail mixer, Aziz, it’s a multi- cultural wonderland where you’re sure to fi nd someone who speaks your language. The bar is decorated in rich woody CzeC rworwwoonyy WieW przr colours, some nice large scale photos from Senegal and piles of books about faraway places. On Thursdays a local French Warsaw’s come a long way fast, and nowhere is the urban expect culinary miracles at Kaskrut though - the food chap hosts board game nights, and if you’re really lucky you’ll vibrancy more apparent than in the city’s progressive cu- looks a million dollars while strictly adhering to a ‘nothing be here for one of their splendid bimonthly outdoor African linary scene. Today one can fi nd quality dining experiences over 29zl’ policy. music concerts on Saturdays (starting at 17:00). The Sen- from most corners of the world, though the predominance egalese menu isn’t half as scary as food cowards may think, of Italian trattorias, sushi bars and designer burger COUPLES with all the meat and fi sh dishes well worth trying.QH-3, ul. joints never ceases to amaze us. As the Polish palate is de- For a romantic and elegant night out Halka ticks all the Francuska 31, tel. (+48) 22 617 40 57, www.cafebaobab. veloping, so too is the service industry, though gruff , ditzy, right boxes, while those looking for somewhere with a pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (28zł). 6GBSW or plain incompetent service is still far too common. As re- more casually stylish atmosphere should try out the award gards to tipping, 10% is standard (easy math!), if a decent winning and groundbreaking Atelier Amaro. This is Po- enough job is done. land’s only Michelen starred restaurant so expect to pay a AMERICAN While our rigorously researched opening hours would little more for that unforgettable dinner. BROOKLYN RESTAURANT & BAR seem self-explanatory, be aware that venues will close their This classy second outing for the Brooklyn burger team doors if business is slow, and some ‘restobars’ employ dif- KIDS takes things to a whole new level. The upstairs specialises ferent sets of hours for bar and kitchen - the times we list Hard Rock Cafe is always going to be a favourite and they in burgers and wings with the design paying homage to the in such cases are for the kitchen, and the prices we list in do know how to make your special ones feel like Miley or ‘chrome and vinyl’ look of 1950’s US diners. Downstairs in brackets denote the cost of the cheapest and most ex- Justin. Credit also goes to the children’s menu at Kuchnia Brooklyn Downtown (aka Brooklyn Restarant & Bar), a pleas- pensive main course on the menu. Funkcjonalna, which treats the wee ones like mini-mas- ant surprise awaits. A beautifully fi tted out dining area with Below is a selection of recommendations depending what terchefs. a distinctively NYC/Brooklyn ambience. The open kitchen, you are looking for: under the control of whizz-kid chef Jan Piecuch, presents LADS a seasonally changing menu of signature dishes inspired by BUSINESS Launch an attack on the pies, fi sh & chips and burgers at both traditional and new American Cuisine. Enjoy delecious Restauracja Różana is an experienced local off ering that Legends while downing pints of Spitfi re Ale and watching dishes accompanied by a menu of classic American drinks & will impress the client and give you room to talk shop, while the footie, or head down to the Old Town via BrowArmia cocktails while sitting at the bar watching your favorit sports Butchery and Wine recently won accolades as the city’s where the menu is perfectly matched to the liquid gold on one of their many TV screens.QA-3, Al. Jana Pawła II 18, top restaurant. 99 Restaurant & Bar also continues its from the on-site microbrewery. tel. (+48) 22 114 34 34, www.brooklynbw.eu. Open 08:00 reign as the place of choice for many an ex-pat business - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 - meeting. POLSKI 23:00. (26-98zł). TVEGBSW Eat Commie style in Czerwony Wieprz, or for a pre- CHEAP revolutionary and elegant take on Polish cuisine Dom The many bar mleczny (milk bar) canteens are a sadly Polski a class act that’s hard to beat. For a full-on rustic More reviews online: declining legacy of the communist past. They’re a unique Polish experience in the big city, the rustic style of warsaw.inyourpocket.com Polish experience, but don’t expect culinary miracles. Do Zapiecek’s pierogie specialties is a good choice.

26 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 27 Restaurants Restaurants HARD ROCK CAFE Is there anything more American than sinking your teeth BREAKFAST into a 10oz burger stacked with cheddar and bacon while staring at the jacket worn by Jimi Hendrix on the cover of Are You Experienced? The Hard Rock Cafe has based a CLUB business around the concept of unrivalled burgers and impressive memorabilia, and Warsaw’s chapter is no diﬀ erent. BUY 1 BREAKFAST SET, The two-story venue features a wall made of 675 guitars and menu items like hefty nachos and barbecue ribs. The GET A SECOND FOR 50% OFF* dark basement bar churns out heaping drinks that look like *valid between 8:30 - 11:00 (Mon - Fri) they require two straws. Even the bathrooms are painfully cool, labelled “Guns” for him and “Roses” for her. Don’t miss the weekday main+side+drink lunch special from 12:00 - 16:00 for 29zł.QB-4, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (33-115zł). T6UGBSW

KITCHEN Formerly Burger Kitchen, they appear to have lost their Burger and go by just Kitchen now. Predictably, their concept has changed slightly and they now serve much more than just hand made burgers (although they are still around as well and better then ever). They now serve up all kinds of culinary treats like grilled octopus, hand made ravioli, linguine, and small appetiser plates hailing from the Mediterranean all the way to the Far East. They HAPPY HOURS jumped on the hummus train as well and oﬀ er three ﬂ a- vours curry, mango and beetroot. The meat of the menu COCKTAIL KITCHEN are their matured steaks thought they are nicely balanced with healthy salads and sides like quinoa, edamame and COME FOR AN AFTERWORK DRINK other Asian accents like Shanghai steamed buns. They ARGENTINEAN offer. The fish and seafood dishes include corvina - still serve breakfast as well and added new sets e.g. Israeli, HOŻA one of the most highly prized fish in South America, 4 PM - 7 PM English and Polish.QB-4, ul. Widok 8, tel. (+48) 22 464 An Argentinean steakhouse and seafood restaurant and fresh oysters every Thursday. Mr. Gimenez Cas- BUY 1 DRINK - GET 1 FREE 82 84, www.kitchenrestaurant.pl. Open 08:30 - 23:00, with a classy and sensual interior; bullfight reds, pol- tro’s encyclopaedic knowledge of the proper hang- Fri 08:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. ished black fixtures, stripped brickwork and bright ing and preparation of beef can be experienced by (20-59zł). T6UGBSW blue paintwork blend together under the low light- diving into the separate weekend steak menu. They ing to create a nice atmosphere of old world Buenos also offer an extensive breakfast menu daily from SOMEPLACE ELSE Aires with a modern kick. Though the chef is a native 06:30 till 10:30.QF-4, ul. Wilcza 73 (entrance from SPE has been serving up some of the best burgers in War- Argentine, Hoża only uses Polish beef, sourced from ul. Emilii Plater), tel. (+48) 22 584 87 71, www. saw for as long as we can remember, and a recent visit Limousin and Angus stock, which is hung and cured saltorestauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. (45-110zł). shows little has changed: the SPE Quesadilla is both epic in their own dry ageing room for a minimum of 12 UGSW and creative. The large, open bar is capable of mixing up days. Although you’ll pay a hefty 86zł for the premium anything you can think of, including a spicy bloody Mary sirloin steak it will certainly be one of the finest, soft- to accompany the Sheraton’s brunch, which is served here est, melt in the mouth hunks of meat money can buy ASIAN on Sunday. Recommended particularly if you are sleep- in this part of the world. It also comes with pomme RAMEN BAR ing upstairs so you won’t have far to haul your happily frites and a side salad. You won’t fail to notice the en- Specialising in bowls of steaming ramen - a hearty fed self.QC-4, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw Hotel), tel. cyclopaedic wine list, but note that their stellar bar broth with meat and noodles, this Asian/Thai street (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.warszawa.someplace-else. also includes 50 kinds of whisky.QC-4, ul. Hoża 25A, food joint also serves up a variety of quick and tasty pl. Open 12:00 - 23:30. From September open 12:00 - tel. (+48) 515 03 70 01, www.hoza.warszawa.pl. dishes. Those with a burning desire should head 00:30; Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (38-110zł). Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (20-170zł). straight for the ‘Fire’ section of the menu where nu- TUEGBSW TXSW merous spicy delights await. We reckon it’s all played down for the Polish market, but just add a hefty dol- BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER & DRINKS SALTO lop of the killer sambal for a true napalm experience. Stay up-to-date Winner of the 2013 edition of Poland’s ‘Top Chef’ The interior is a bit like a brand new garden shed with + 48 22 464 82 84 | Widok 8, 00-023 competition, Argentinean-born Martin Gimenez Cas- matching furniture, but be sure to clock the creepy, tro now heads his own signature restaurant in the parody mural of Michelangelo’s ‘Creation of Adam’. Warszawa facebook.com/ city’s glamorous Art Deco Hotel Rialto. Enter via a QC-4, ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. (+48) 570 39 16 80. www.kitchenrestaurant.pl WarsawInYourPocket separate door on ul. Emilii Plater and prepare to be Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (10-35zł). dazzled by the modern South American cuisine on 6NGBSW

28 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 29 Restaurants Restaurants already a popular breakfast spot, and a communal table BRITISH in the center of the restaurant is a genius solution for LEGENDS BRITISH BAR & RESTAURANT the many solo diners ducking in for a pastry and a latte. Legends is settling gently into its rhythm as the thinking The service at this start-up is still spotty, but consider- ® (and eating) man’s football watching venue of choice. Basi- ing the crowds it’s also understandable. Charlotte is the cally has two things going for it: good British grub (a steak ideal place to sip a Perrier and nibble a tart without feel- and kidney to relish is served), British ales and Sky Sports (if ing like le snob.QF-4, Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (entrance the waitress can work out which channel is showing what). from Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. (+48) 662 20 45 55, www. What it needs now are a few pints spilt on the fl oor and a bistrocharlotte.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - ISINE IN WARSAW DIAN CU few rowdy evenings to knock off the ‘new’ look. Find it a 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (8-18zł). NTIC IN stone’s throw south of the Marriott hotel.QB-4, ul. Emilii T6GBSW AUTHE Plater 25, tel. (+48) 22 622 46 40, www.legendsbar.pl. Open 10:30 - 21:00, Fri 10:30 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, LE BISTRO ROZBRAT Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (25-50zł). TBXSW Unpretentious, uncluttered and wickedly stylish, Le Bistro brings the tastes and ambience of an authentic Parisian eatery to Warsaw. The menu features a range CHINESE of classic French dishes with contemporary tweaking CHINA GARDEN kept to a minimum. The wines are all sourced by the Business lunch Excellent food served in an elegant but relaxed atmosphere owner directly, and the range includes some brilliant summer gard 20 PLN our en down in the moneyed Wilanów district of Warsaw. Un- propositions from small scale vineyards specialising in u to 11:00 - 15:30 yo vite like many Chinese restaurants the decoration is tastefully traditional and organic production methods. Top off e in From 15th April w done with tiled fl oors, lanterns and lots of reds and blacks the whole ‘expérience française’ with the fact that the with an aquarium and fountain centrepieces. The food is French owner, Alain Budzyk, is one of the most ami- Get take away delivered to your home, hotel or office through Royal Menu + 48 22 244 21 21, authentic with a particular focus on the cuisine of the Ji- able and passionate hosts you will meet in the city. ul. Nowogrodzka 15 www.royalmenu.pl Q angsu region and the menu off ers a comprehensive choice G-3, ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. (+48) 692 88 72 34, www. +48 22 357 09 39 ul. Nowy Świat 23 of dishes including a beautifully presented Nanjing duck. lebistrorozbrat.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (25-75zł). tel. +48 22 826 35 01, +48 725 111 222 T6GBSW Mon-Sat 11.00-22.00, Sun 12.00-22.00 www.buddha.info.pl Of note if you are visiting the palace at Wilanów, you’ll fi nd www.facebook.com/Buddha.Poland it a 10 minute walk along Klimczaka. It’s defi nitely worth [email protected] | www.namasteindia.pl the walk and arguably even the cab fare from the centre, LE VICTORIA BRASSERIE MODERNE with a solid lunch special Mon-Fri from 12:00-16:30 for just Located inside the Victoria Hotel, Le Brasserie sparkles 21zł. (Also check out there second location at ul. Puławska with a sophisticated colour scheme of beige, creams and 1).Qul. Kazachska 1 (Wilanów), tel. (+48) 22 241 10 10, greys. Black and white light fi ttings, orange highlights, www.chinagarden.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (37-70zł). window-like mirrors and comfy geometric seating add TUGSW a warm and spacious feel to Didier Gomez’s design. The slick open kitchen area draws your eye to the work of chef Maciej Majewski and his team as they prepare seasonally CZECH adjusted dishes based on classic and modern brasserie- U SZWEJKA style French cuisine. Prices are seriously competitive with This aging establishment, equipped with Czech street signs nearby restaurants, making it an attractive proposition for a INDIAN FOOD - Q Geniune home-cooked and images of simpleton Szwejk, is a bit of a Warsaw clas- stylish and upmarket dinner date or business lunch. B-3, Vietnamese food in the BRITISH STANDARDS sic, and while it looks brash and basic the food is fi ne and ul. Królewska 11, tel. (+48) 22 657 83 82, www.sofi tel- the portions are scary. The steak is inconsistent, so best stick victoria-warsaw.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. heart of Warsaw. to ordering standards like sausages and schnitzel, and visit (16-75zł). TUGSW in summer when a terrace opens onto Pl. Konstytucji. Pa- Our Vietnamese chefs will take tience is a good tactic to use with the staff , but there’s cer- you on an extraordinary tainly no criticism of the Pilsner on draught - cut the dismal FUSION waiting times by ordering in steins.QF-4, Pl. Konstytucji 1, FUSION culinary journey. tel. (+48) 22 339 17 10, www.uszwejka.pl. Open 08:00 Beautifully presented food in the modern, if regularly We invite you to our VIP lounge - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (19-45zł). quiet, interiors of the Westin hotel. The food here is very TEBXSW good, if a tad pricey compared to city restaurants, but you and karaoke nights... NOW WITH get what you pay for, with everything being of a superior AIR CONDITIONING quality. Regular seasonal specials based around particu- FRENCH lar ingredients keep happy local foodies coming back for Al. Solidarności 129/131 CHARLOTTE. CHLEB I WINO more. Don’t miss their Business Lunch Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00 Q Mob. +48 536 335 333 Sinking your teeth into Charlotte’s pain au chocolate starting at 29zł. A-3, Al. Jana Pawła II 21 (The Westin ul. Hoża 27a you expect to hear La Seine bubbling past, but instead Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 86 31, www.restauracjafusion. www.hoza4seasons.pl madraskuchniaindyjska it’s your waitress bringing giant jars of jams, honey and pl. Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 22:30; Sat 07:00 - 11:00, hozafourseasons chocolate spread to dig into - this doesn’t look like typi- 12:00 - 22:30; Sun 07:00 - 11:00, 13:00 - 22:30. (45-150zł). tel. (+48) 22 400 27 32 cal French portion control. This French bakery/bistro is TUGSW

30 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 31 Restaurants Restaurants NORMA capital. Better still, the prices are set so low you can’t help Set close to the National Theatre and Opera house, Norma but ask what’s the catch. There isn’t one; we’ve tried pretty bravely crosses the culinary arts of Poland and Italy and much everything on the menu, and have yet to fi nd a weak presents a concise and interesting seasonally-adjusted link. Consider ringing ahead for takeaway because waiting menu. Dishes like ravioli fi lled with Polish white sausage, or times can be torture.QC-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. (+48) the refreshing curly kale, hulled barley and lemon grass sal- 22 357 09 39, www.namasteindia.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, ad. Choose to sit at the high tables by the bar and ogle the Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (20-40zł). TUNGBSW shelves of wine, or venture into the two classy dining rooms. If you can’t decide, try the cosy upstairs level which features RAIN BY INDIA CURRY a mix of both seating styles. Kooky enlargements of antique Neatly tucked back from the main drag on ul. Żurawia, Rain animal and bird illustrations add a touch of surreal quirki- manages to combine a comprehensive range of Indian ness to the relaxing interior space.QB-2, ul. Wierzbowa dishes with a short fusion and international based menu. 9/11, tel. (+48) 22 828 01 30, www.restauracjanorma.pl. This mixed menu makes it the ideal place to dine for curry Open 12:00 - 23:00. (26-61zł). T6GBSW fi ends who are happy to have a few non-worshippers tag- ging along in the group. The fusion suggestions include a few dishes with hints of Indian fl avours for those who simply GALICIAN can’t make up their minds; like the tandoori fi sh with ginger C.K. OBERŻA straws and vegetables. The interior consists of two seating Budget priced dinners, pints of lager and a bubbly atmo- areas separated by a nice bar space, which is designed so sphere come presented inside a basic room decked out in that you can also just drop in for a wicked ‘pick-me-up’ from dark woods. The menu is all pork chops, potato pancakes the well above-average cocktail list.QC-4, ul. Żurawia 22, and plates of animals, and happily consumed by crowds tel. (+48) 22 438 93 50, www.rain.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00; Traditional Polish cuisine who recognise a serious bargain.QB-4, ul. Chmielna 28, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 00:30. (32-60zł). TUGBSW tel. (+48) 22 828 45 85, www.ckoberza.pl. Open 11:00 - Best venison and lamb in Warsaw 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (27-80zł). BXS SHEESHA LOUNGE Live music It’s been a while coming but the lads from Sheesha have fi nally made the move from their much loved previous site Regional wine, beer and spirits INDIAN on ul. Sienkiewicza to this three level site directly behind the BUDDHA INDIAN RESTAURANT city centre Novotel. The fi t out is a jewel of Middle Eastern Grand Cupboard - 16 years full of tradition Buddha really impressed when they opened up a couple of promises and the second you enter you feel you’ve been years back giving us very good Indian food right in the heart transported into a sultry world of wonder; Arabic fi xtures and of the city. The decor is lush and extravagant, and the curries fi ttings, the sweet smell of shisha, dim lighting, a laid back follow a similar suit with a spicy slap that puts them at the atmosphere and a majestic menu of Middle Eastern, Indian top of our list. The rest of the menu is monstrous, but helpful- and fusion cuisine make it a tranquil daytime oasis in the ly benchmarked with symbols for hot, vegetarian and even heart of town. In order to fi nd out why we say ‘tranquil day- kid-friendly dishes.QC-3, ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. (+48) 22 time oasis’, check out our clubs section listing for Sheesha. 826 35 01, www.buddha.info.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, QB-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 33, tel. (+48) 22 828 25 25, www. Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (30-130zł). TUGBSW sheesha.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. (28-48zł). TEBXSW MADRAS This brightly decorated and dimly lit restaurant may well be one of the smallest curry houses you ever visit - the downstairs area INTERNATIONAL hosts a staggering two tables with a further four at the top of 12 STOLIKÓW the mini staircase - but the simply presented and extremely If the idea of a restaurant not having a menu sounds pre- well priced meals on the extensive menu are outstanding. A big tentious, well, we thought the same thing. Fortunately the hit with locals and the ex-pat curry fetish fraternity, we visited concept turns out to be charming at 12 Stolików, a small early on a Sunday afternoon and the place was packed. It’s easy restaurant that writes the ever-changing off erings on a enough to fi nd a more elegant and signifi cantly more expensive chalkboard facing diners. Waitresses are happy to inter- Indian restaurant in Warsaw, but the quality of the food makes pret, and though the transient system means you might this tiny restaurant HUGE!QE-2, Al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. not get the delicious white bean cream soup that we did, (+48) 536 33 53 33. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (20-60zł). TGS their quality indicates you can’t go wrong. The high ceilings and stacks of wine crates are all that pass for décor, but NAMASTE INDIA we couldn’t take our eyes off the chef tempering chocolate What began as a modest Indian-owned grocery store soon on the centre island - call it dinner and show. And we’re expanded into a full-on ethnic restaurant and proved so pop- not the only ones who think so: 12 Stolików was named Aleje Jerozolimskie 111, Warsaw ular that a second location was needed to meet the demand one of the top fi ve restaurants in Warsaw in 2011 by Gazeta tel. +48 22 629 80 08, Mob. +48 697 900 000 for delicious Indian cuisine. For offi ce workers around town, Wyborcza newspaper.QF-3, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) this - the original Namaste - remains the best, and we’ll agree 795 37 38 15. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (25- [email protected], www.kredens.com.pl that it simply doesn’t get much better for Indian food in the 70zł). T6UGSW

32 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 33 Restaurants BROWARMIA KUCHNIA FUNKCJONALNA Warsaw’s other microbrewery tends to mysteriously live in Seconds away from the hectic Washington round- the shadow of the more famous Bierhalle, and though it fails about, it’s difficult to believe how tranquil and relaxed to share the lively atmosphere of its rival, BrowArmia is by no this place is. A prime example of Functionalism de- means second best. The interior has a dark beer hall vibe with signed in 1928 by Czesław Przybylski for the sculp- all the requisite pipes, dials and tanks on display, as well as a tor Mieczysław Lubelski, this smallish restaurant is an good menu that trounces the competition - the sticky wings unusually harmonious blend of rustic, modern and pair perfectly with a BrowArmia pils. More importantly the industrial elements. The short menu offers a season- beer is top standard and best imbibed on the seasonal ter- ally changing selection of European-style dishes mixed race looking onto bustling Krakowskie Przedmieście.QB-3, with a healthy dose of Polish ingenuity and locally ul. Królewska 1, tel. (+48) 22 826 54 55, www.browarmia. sourced produce. The staff are some of the best we pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (27-66zł). TUEBXSW have come across in Warsaw - helpful and extremely knowledgeable about all aspects of the menu. Also, FIVE check out the BWA and Asymetria art galleries which Guaranteed a steady fl ow of customers by its designer are based in the building.Qul. Jakubowska 16 lok.7 looks and top location amongst Warsaw’s biggest and best (Praga Południe, entrance from ul. Estońska), tel. hotels, this place doesn’t have to be all that good, but is. In (+48) 512 89 38 98. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (25-60zł). fact, recent visits have made us love the place all over again, T6GBSW as the menu of simple Italian classics always delivers a decent meal at a fair price. Look out for the changing specials, MEAT LOVE which on our last trip included some terrifi c grilled salmon The audacious name would suggest a barbarian with leek sauce. A 19zl lunch special from 12:00-16:00 gets bone-sucking, finger-licking orgy of dripping meat you soup and a main, and note to parents with tots: there’s juice (to us, anyway), but the reality is a woodsy, in- a children’s playground available for your wee ones every timate, eco-minded sandwich shop that effectively Sunday.QA-3, ul. Grzybowska 5, tel. (+48) 793 53 53 reclaims hipsterdom from the vegans (though we’ve 53, www.fi verestaurant.eu. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun spotted two vegetarian options on the menu). Meat 12:00 - 23:00. (22-49zł). TUVGBSW Love’s specialty is fresh rolls and baguettes stuffed with tender, organic, hormone-free carnivorous deli- GRAND KREDENS cacies, and there’s a good selection of teas, coffee and Few places in Warsaw match this for a fi ne, dare we say other drinks to accompany them (whiskey anyone?!). splendid dining experience. The decor is tremendously, en- One also can’t help but admire the simple genius joyably eclectic, and the menu - with a terrifi c variety of fi sh of their Belgian waffle topped with pulled pork and (amongst much else) to savour - well up to the challenge of maple syrup. The staff have all the hallmarks a hip its rivals. It is not by any means the cheapest place in town, urbanite should: tattoos and studs, scraggly beards but we would be fairly certain that however big the bill, you and suave haircuts, but the atmosphere is family- will leave feeling well satisfi ed. This has been around Warsaw friendly and completely sincere. A great addition to longer than we have and it’s a treat.QA-4, Al. Jerozolimskie the neighbourhood, in fact it’s places like this that 111, tel. (+48) 22 629 80 08, www.kredens.com.pl. Open create the illusion pocket neighbourhoods even ex- 10:00 - 23:00. (30-100zł). T6UEGBSW ist in the capital.QB-4, ul. Hoża 62/2, tel. (+48) 22 404 67 36, www.meatlove.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, KASKRUT Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (13-20zł). Small venue with big ideas! Although we suspect the mod- 6GBSW est, enthusiastic and friendly French owner would play down the big ideas part, the truth is this is one of the most NATU REST & WINE innovative and experimental eateries in town. The three The locavore trend has finally taken off in Warsaw and starters/three mains/three desserts menu changes every new places sporting locally sourced slow food seem to two weeks and consists of fl avour and ingredient combina- be popping up like so many organic mushrooms after tions which at fi rst glance may look bonkers, but in the end a storm. This bright and attractive cafe and restaurant you’ll feel silly for ever having questioned them. We had has jumped on the bandwagon and they boast a daily salmon, caramelised pineapple and harissa served in fl at menu of rotating specials all composed of the finest bread and an amazing dessert which included aubergine and freshest local ingredients. While the cuisine ap- and halva foam served with meringue. Marvel at the easy- pears mostly Polish derived they appear to be pursu- going team’s skills by seating yourself down in front of the ing something along the lines of pan-Slavic fusion. Of open kitchen. If all of this wasn’t enough we later found course many other flavours and inspirations find their out that the change the menu every week! Considering the way into their creative kitchen as well. To top it all off whirlwind of innovation, it’s impressive that nothing on the they offer a full array of craft beers, organic beverag- menu costs over 30zl.QB-4, ul. Poznańska 5, tel. (+48) 22 es and of course, wines.QE-2, ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 622 54 38. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. Closed (+48) 506 51 11 46. Open 09:00 - 22:00. (19-32zł). Mon. (19-30zł). 6GBW T6UVGBSW

34 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com Restaurants Restaurants RESTAURACJA KULTURA pastries, muffi ns and a small deli area selling mainly Medi- On the ground fl oor of the Kino Kultura, and therefore com- terranean products. The basement room has a fi ne wine bar manding one of the greatest locations on all Krakowskie, with an on-hand sommelier dishing out advice and recom- the Kultura makes good use of the space by serving food mendations.QF-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 4, tel. (+48) 22 350 that lives up to its surroundings. Smart waitresses wearing 04 44, www.skandalbistrobar.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, freshly starched aprons will bring a bowl of chłodnik with Sat 09:00 - 02:00. (20-40zł). T6GBSW crayfi sh to your table before presenting you with a bill that should, given quality, be far higher.QB-2, ul. Krakowskie SKWER - FILIA CENTRUM ARTYSTYCZNEGO Przedmieście 21/23, tel. (+48) 784 04 40 51, www. FABRYKA TRZCINY “Senses is about being honest and restauracjakultura.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - If location is everything then Skwer is the place to be. Com- emotional about the food. Using the 24:00. (36-62zł). TGBSW manding a prime spot on Krakowskie Przedmieście a stone’s throw from the presidential place it looks like an architect’s fi nest produce we are innovative and RESTAURACJA WILANÓW show-home yet manages to create a decent atmosphere modern yet surprisingly familiar." An extraordinary excursion back to the days of a planned thanks to the students who fl ock here for coff ee after lec- Andrea Camastra Chef de Cuisine Polish economy, this much talked about classy restaurant tures. By night the crowd gets trendier as local arty-types serves a range of international and Polish food in a blast turn up to be seen eating the well-priced food through the to the past atmosphere. Despite what they say about glass walls.QB-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 60a, tel. the place there’s no ignoring the service. Breathtak- (+48) 508 36 58 49, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl. Open 12:00 - ingly snobby, expect to be treated like something the cat 22:00. (18-39zł). TUGBSW dragged in if you’re not dressed for the opera.Qul. S. K. Potockiego 27 (Wilanów), tel. (+48) 22 842 18 52, www. SOLEC 44 restauracjawilanow.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (32-58zł). Solec 44 marries two of the best things around at one loca- 6GBS tion: delicious food and the joy of beating the crap out of your friends at board games. Come for the grub - which RESTAURANT JASNA 24 is a delectable menu of fresh, local and seasonal options The great thing about Jasna 24 is the fact that the chef plus hearty sandwiches - but stay for the chance to crack has managed to come up with an excellent, unique and into Settlers of Catan or Scrabble with a beer in hand. The forward-thinking menu which changes with the seasons. space itself (which can be tough to fi nd and is tucked be- Add to this the fact that they have a rather good wine list hind a kebab shop) is sprawling and ideal for long evenings and it’s highly unlikely that you’ll be disappointed. Enjoy an of dice rolling, especially when the sun stays out so late. exotic mix of dishes (it would be folly to name any as they QG-2, ul. Solec 44, tel. (+48) 798 36 39 96, www.solec. change often) in a well-designed, modern setting with waw.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Mon 16:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, some cool mood-lighting adding to the atmosphere. The Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (25-90zł). T6GBSW charming and professional staff are well versed in the ex- pression ‘attention to detail’.QB-3, ul. Jasna 24, tel. (+48) STARA KAMIENICA 22 447 24 41, www.jasna24.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun Located in a secessionist-era townhouse in the city centre, 12:00 - 20:00. (22-65zł). GBSW at fi rst glance, Stara Kamienica comes across as a 1920’s furnished and dark wood detailed traditional restaurant. "Modern, Polish inspired cuisine." SAM BAKERY & RESTAURANT Chandeliers, vases of fresh fl owers, chintzy curtains, art Fresh baked bread, plentiful salads, a shop with organic deco mirrors and subdued lighting give the venue a quiet, herbs and superfoods like acai...it’s safe to say that SAM old-world charm but it’s also more than that; changing art has arrived in Warsaw with some strong credentials, and exhibitions, live monthly acoustic music evenings with an after our visit we can declare it the Charlotte of the student Irish and country blues feel and an interesting menu of set. You’ll fi nd the same lackadaisical service and hipster traditional Polish and French classic dishes with a mod- AN clientele as the popular Pl. Zbawiciela hotspot, and if you ern twist. Extra Brownie points for using the proper name can overlook these fl aws you’ll be delighted with healthy of zander instead of pike-perch in the fi sh section!Qul. ESSENCE dishes that ensure you’ll forever be able to squeeze into Widok 8, tel. (+48) 22 690 67 67, www.stara-kamienica. OF ITALIAN those skinny jeans.QC-2, ul. Lipowa 7a, tel. (+48) 600 com.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (30-79zł). 6GBSW 80 60 84, www.sam.info.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12 Bielańska Street, Warsaw TASTE IN 09:00 - 22:00. (15-35zł). T6UGSW STREFA RESTAURANT & BAR („Senator” building ) WARSAW Situated in a sympathetically restored townhouse on one SKANDAL BISTROBAR of the most atmospheric and historic little streets in War- P: + 48 22 331 96 97 The name may summon up visions of some unsavoury saw, Strefa oozes old style glamour from the exterior and a M: +48 733 390 000 XO:LOF]DōWHO Newcastle backstreet nightclub, so it’s a nice surprise to fi nd cool, modern, whitewashed brick and pale colour scheme @: [email protected] UHVWDXUDFMD#JLDQFDUORSO that Skandal is in fact a rather trendy and relaxing bistrobar; interior. Nothing is over the top and the more informal bis- www.sensesrestaurant.pl ZZZUHVWDXUDFMDJLDQFDUORSO honestly, it’s diffi cult to expect anything less from the crew tro/bar area compliments the stunningly designed restau- ZZZJLDQFDUORSO that also runs the legendary Leniviec on ul. Poznańska. rant room beautifully. The kitchen in the main restaurant Senses-Restaurant *LDQFDUOR5LVWRUDQWH Smarter than its older brother, this funky split level venue is helmed by award winning chef Jarosław Walczyk and features a quality European menu, rustic displays of breads, specialises in seafood and fi sh signature dishes as well as

36 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 37 Restaurants Restaurants a range of Italian and Polish based options. The ambience, ŻURAWINA REST & WINE quality and standard of service more than justify the bor- Stylish and spacious, this upscale resto wine bar looks like it derline high prices (prices range from 25-110zł). The Bistro should be attached to a modern art museum and is about side off ers a separate more aff ordable menu (4-60zł) and is as fashionable as they come, while still maintaining a level open Daily 10:30 - 24:00.QF-2, ul. Próżna 9, tel. (+48) 22 of casual comfort that won’t put off those of us who don’t LITTLE SICILY 255 08 50, www.restauracjastrefa.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. spend half our paychecks on our hair. Post-modernist paint- IN THE T6UGBSW ings and slick plastic seating are off -set by elegant place HEART Polish Cuisine settings, fresh fl owers and gorgeously presented dishes. WILCZY GŁÓD Choose from sexy drinks and desserts, or dive into to-die- OF WARSAW This subtly stylish resto-bar lives up to the hype of the new for dishes. The place of choice for well-bred Varsovians on wave of Warsaw gastro-pubs to tout locally-sourced organ- rich dates, business meetings and mixers, in the evening ic products and constantly changing seasonal menus. The it’s a great cocktail and wine bar.QB-4, ul. Żurawia 32/34, kitchen boldly combines fl avours found in Polish forests tel. (+48) 22 521 06 66, www.zurawina.eu. Open 08:00 and fi elds with more sophisticated fare from afar. The fi xed - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 14:00 - 01:00, Sun 14:00 - lunch and ala carte dinner off erings are friendly for both 22:00. (34-68zł). T6EGBSW carnivores and vegetarians and features dishes like nettle soup, beef cheeks with caramelised onion in nutmeg and rhubarb mousse. In the evening make sure to drop by with ITALIAN some friends and bond over some lighter fare with a glass DZIURKA OD KLUCZA of local brew, organic wine something else equally divine. Pixie-sized family run restaurant located on a lovely pre-war QF-3, ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. (+48) 22 891 02 85. Open 09:00 street in Powiśle. With everything handmade on the prem- - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. (23-42zł). 6GBSW ises, Agnieszka and Stanisław Szpilowscy have successfully turned their passion for pasta into a full-time business. The WINESTONE process is on full view thanks to the open kitchen and nat- “TRATTORIA DA ANTONIO- The Mercure Hotel’s concept restaurant has proven itself a tering away with the cooks while they work makes for a ITALIAN FLAVORS AND popular venue for the local business set. The name ‘Wine- friendly and casual atmosphere. ‘Dziurka od Klucza’ means stone’ comes from the menu’s selection of ‘Les Planches’ - ‘keyhole’ and much of the interior is made up of old doors SICILIAN TEMPERAMENT” dishes served on simple stone tablets, and the incredible and any opportunity to add a key to the décor isn’t missed. Welcome to our newly opened Italian range of fi ne wines in stock here. The menu also covers a Slightly mummsy violet and lavender pastel colours help to restaurant, which is guided by one maxim: range of seasonally changing international and French style make the place look bigger than it actually is; in fact, it’s best “La famiglia è il più importante” - Family is most dishes, as well as some modern interpretations of Polish to avoid if you suff er from claustrophobia!QC-3, ul. Radna classics. Presentation is slick and the staff are wonderfully 13, tel. (+48) 500 15 04 94, www.dziurkaodklucza.com. important and our guests are our “famiglia”! polite and professional. The relaxing and modern interior is pl. Open 12:00 - 21:30. (19-40zł). T6GBSW perfectly unstuff y and features Warsaw’s must have restaurant design element of the year - the open kitchen. There is GIANCARLO RISTORANTE ITALIANO also a shop for taking home olives, wine and bread of your One only need mention the name Giancarlo Russo to any own following your meal.QA-4, ul. Złota 48/54, tel. (+48) of the legions of Italophiles in Warsaw to get them salivat- 22 697 37 55, www.mercure.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. ing at the mouth. His knowledge of the culinary arts of (14-69zł). TUGSW Italy is second to none, with notable moments in his career including preparing dinners for John Paul II and Benedict WINIARNIA RESTAURACJA SUPERIORE XVI, his own TV show and an entry in the Guinness book of This recently relocated restaurant and Wine bar inds itself records for preparing the world’s largest Italian mushroom a few doors down from Krystyna Janda’s (just nod and dish! The traditionally styled three roomed restaurant in- pretend you know that she’s a very famous Polish actress) cludes the popular ‘grotto’ room with its aquatic cave-like Teatr Polonia, making it an excellent choice for a few pre- atmosphere, subdued lighting and Hessian covered seat- performance aperitifs and a bite to eat. The interior is slick ing. The food is fantastico with loads of fresh seafood dishes rustic with the shelves of wine bottles making up much served daily. And don’t miss their delicious summer lunch of the décor. Italian wines take priority here, but you’ll sets (Mon - Fri 12:00 - 16:00) for only 11.90zł!QC-4, ul. Wil- also fi nd a good selection of Spanish and Austrian wines. cza 8, tel. (+48) 22 126 31 66, www.giancarlo.pl. Open The heavenly aromas wafting from the kitchen will pull 11:00 - 23:00. (15-70zł). T6GBW Restauracja Dawne Smaki you, trance-like, towards the menu. Regional Wednesdays ul. Nowy Świat 49, 00-042 Warszawa serves up dishes from a diff erent region every week and LA PANCIA PIENA Fridays see an ever-changing seafood menu with fresh This neat little Italian eatery is located in the rapidly devel- Tel: +48 22 465 83 20 catches brought in weekly - everything from mussels and oping suburb of Bemowo, previously known as “the bed- ul. Żurawia 20, Warsaw [email protected] oysters to fi sh and octopus! They serve breakfast Mon- Fri room of Warsaw.” La Pancia Piena (The Full Belly) presents a Tel. +48 22 625 54 17 www.dawnesmaki.pl 09:00 - 12:00;Sat, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. Prices for breakfast start full range of Italian dishes and is particularly well known for [email protected] from 9 zł.QF-4, ul. Piękna 28/34, tel. (+48) 506 40 40 59. its thin crust pizzas. The list of 42 pizzas will play havoc with DawneSmakiRestauracjaPolska Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (25-60zł). your eyes, but fans of our fl at friend hold the authenticity www.trattoriadaantonio.pl TVEGSW in high regard. The interior is a homely, cosy and traditional

38 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 39 Restaurants Restaurants aff air and the seasonal garden area out-front make it the and elegant. The menu itself is encyclopaedic - we’re talk- ideal place to chill-out on a warm summer’s evening.Qul. ing three pages of pastas - enabling Roma to build a loyal Pełczyńskiego 32 lok. U9 (Bemowo), tel. (+48) 530 63 fan base across the years. We’re fans of the onion and truffl e 63 66. Open 14:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - cream soup, especially on rainy days, and if you like strings 20:30. (20-60zł). TGBS of mozzarella dangling from your lips we’re fairly certain you will too.QG-5, ul. Belwederska 17 / ul. Grottgera 2, MERCATO (ITALIAN DELI/BISTRO) tel. (+48) 22 841 01 33, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Open A traditionally designed Italian bistro and deli with the 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. (26- added authenticity of a mixed clientele of diners, shoppers, 63zł). TGSW manic staff and a constant air of something’s going on but you’re never quite sure what. Rather than being annoying, ROMA BUKIETERIA it’s all quite fun. The deli section is stocked with a great range Pasta might be the kind of thing you’re used to gorging on, of products sourced mainly from small scale regional pro- but not here. Roma Bukieteria is all romantic atmosphere ducers in Italy. The kitchen uses the products available from - - think candles, terracotta and heavy wood tables - - so the shelves, fridges and hanging from meat-hooks in the ex- bring your best manners and your latest date. The only SOPHISTICATED FLAVORS, tensive range of bruschetta, panini and salads on off er. We place with a larger selection of pasta has to be Rome it- JAPANESE MINIMALISM recommend the extremely popular, well-priced and ever self, so take your time when sorting through the massive changing two course hot lunch deal. Check out their new menu. It may look like a small trattoria, but the wine list AND ELEGANCE location on ul. Piękna 15 (F-4).QB-3, ul. Próżna 7, tel. (+48) suggests seasoned pros who will ensure a charming date. 509 00 78 03. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Fri 08:30 - 23:00, Sat QC-4, ul. Mokotowska 49a, tel. (+48) 22 621 03 11, 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (14-39zł). 6GBS www.restauracjaroma.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. (24-69zł). T6GSW NEW RISTORANTE IL CAVALIERE TRATTORIA DA ANTONIO While others may spend their time trying to create the Sicilian born chef Antonio Centurrino has been a fi xture most modern and trend setting restaurant interior in town, in Warsaw’s Italian culinary scene for as long as we can owner and head chef Cristiano Pedrotti prefers to concen- remember and his fans will be delighted with his latest trate on a traditional yet elegant aesthetic, a homely atmo- venture on ul. Zurawia. The main room is an open, spacious sphere and an extensive menu of classic Italian cuisine. The and bright area, while the second space has more of an in- menu also features some less well known dishes from the timate taverna feel. Being Italian, family plays an important chefs home region of Lombardy, in particular from around role in the proceedings, so a third room is kitted out as a the Valtelline valley. Try the Pizzoccheri alla Valtellinese - an play room for kids. As well as a whole host of classics, the unusual combination of buckwheat noodles, cabbage, po- comprehensive menu also features some house specials, tatoes and Casera cheese which is popular amongst the ski- like marinated swordfi sh carpaccio.QC-4, ul. Żurawia ers of the area, so probably not the best choice during the 18, tel. (+48) 22 625 54 17, www.trattoriadaantonio.pl. summer months.QB-4, ul. Hoża 43/49 lok. 2, tel. (+48) Open 11:00 - 24:00. (30-60zł). T6GBSW 22 628 00 20, www.ristorante-ilcavaliere.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (35-58zł). TUGBSW TRATTORIA RUCOLA Trattoria Rucola has taught us a simple truth: we’d surely eat RISTORANTE REPUBBLICA ITALIANA more salads if they all came with smoky bacon. The smell of Busy Italian restaurant close to the National Stadium. Fresh garlic wafting onto Krakowskie Przedmieście will undoubt- and light interior and a comprehensive menu featuring edly lure you in, the strange leafy décor will encourage seafood, meats, pastas, ravioli and salads. Tempting as you to grab a table and the hefty menu of Italian staples everything is, it’s nigh on impossible not to hit the pizza will mean a certain belt-loosening. Thirty pizzas dominate menu. Long regarded as one of the best pizza places on the menu, but we were intrigued by the rare sighting of this side of the river, the dough is thin, not burnt to a crisp doughy calzones. The aforementioned salads are soaked in and the amounts of sauce and toppings are just right. In a lush balsamic dressing that no one should be ashamed to the summer months Repubblica is blessed with having an lick from their fi ngers (we did). Also at (H-3), ul. Francuska outdoor terrace surrounding three sides of the restaurant 6 and (C-4), ul. Krucza 6/14.QB-2, ul. Miodowa 1, tel. and judging by its popularity it really is one of THE places to (+48) 888 57 54 57, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00 ul. Krucza 41/43 be seen on Saska Kępa’s high street.QH-3, ul. Francuska - 22:00. (22-59zł). TVGBSW Tel. +48 (22) 628 92 74 44, tel. (+48) 22 465 81 83, www.repubblicaitaliana.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, [email protected] Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (30-64zł). TGBSW JAPANESE www.wabu.pl We could quite easily have a guide with only sushi restau- Opening hours: 12:00 – 23:00 ROMA rants such has been the explosion of them in recent years. Attention to detail is apparent at Roma, and every aspect of This is a selection of the places we feel you ought to know this secretive restaurant hints at the neighbourhood locales about but you are likely to fi nd somewhere serving sushi in you’d fi nd in the side alleys of Italy. The interior is intimate every major mall these days.

40 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 41 Restaurants Restaurants BESUTO two with 22 pieces ranging from kappa maki to inari was Besuto has moved from among the prefab cabins and ram- tops, and the tempura is crispy rather the soggy we often shackle pavilions inside Nowy Świat 22 to a more visible encounter. Ducking in for a lunch special will get you heaps location just down the street at 27. The good news is the of fresh sushi along with miso soup, a salad and green tea sushi, which has historically been very decent hot and cold for a reasonable price. The small storefront means you may cuts prepared in front of your eyes, is still reliably delicious, have to fi ght for a seat, though.QF-3, ul. Nowy Świat 46, and the new storefront is signifi cantly less likely to make tel. (+48) 22 828 00 88, www.oto-sushi.pl. Open 12:00 - your date question your commitment - - the interior also 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (20-60zł). VGBSW gets marks for being bright and modern. The bad news is that a better location means higher prices than Besuto loy- PATERA COCKTAIL & SUSHI BAR alists might be used to, but it’s worth it to dig a little deeper. Thinking well outside of the sushi box, this innovatively QC-3, ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. (+48) 22 828 00 20, www. styled restaurant with its glossy tiles, semi-industrial fi ttings, besuto.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun graphic symbols and a brilliant bar canopy (made entirely 12:00 - 22:00. (21-52zł). T6VGBSW from coca-cola crates) appears to have more in common with a PRL milk bar or a hipsterish retro café. The menu fea- ICHIBAN SUSHI tures an impressive sushi list, a host of hot Thai dishes and a A fi ne city centre location for this small sushi bar chain. dizzying range of alcohols - including their auteur cocktails Small is the key word here, not helped by the addition of with names like “The Punisher” and Sushi Mule. Daily food an upper level, which makes the ground level area feel and drink deals like half price beers on Mondays and 30% very low and claustrophobic. The walls are totally covered off Thai dishes on Thursdays have already helped establish in Japanese calligraphy, making you feel like you are hav- a steady clientele.QF-3, ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. (+48) ing your eyes tested by a rather thorough Tokyo optician. 535 33 31 23, www.patera.com.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Having said that, the menu is fairly extensive and the miso Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (25-59zł). UVEGBSW soup garners high praise from those in the know. Due to the ever-changing promotions and voucher schemes, Ich- RYŻ I RYBA iban is fantastically popular amongst the lunchtime ‘eat Congratulations are due to this sushi bar for being one of something quick and get back to the offi ce’ crowd. Well the only Japanese eateries we can think of whose name priced and good quality, but not a place to visit for a special doesn’t end in the letters ‘o’ or ‘i;’ instead they’ve gone for dinner date.QC-3, ul. Nowy Świat 61, tel. (+48) 22 692 45 the straight-forward ‘Ryż i Ryba’ (Rice & Fish). This smart 45, www.ichibansushi.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (20-40zł). little place is situated close to the famous Plac Konstytucji UVGSW at the entrance to the Piękna 20 modern offi ce block and attracts many of the suited and booted class from the INABA building. All the old favourites are on the menu, freshly pre- Here’s a restaurant that was around years before sushi be- pared by the Polish trained sushi masters. Belonging to the came a fashion statement. Japanese owned and run every- same owners as the ever popular Piękna Bistro next door, thing about Inaba strives for authenticity, and this is one of you can expect to have some cool jazz piped through the only three places in town that can claim a Japanese master sound system while you twiddle your chopsticks.QF/G- chef calling the shots in the kitchen. A pleasantly panelled 4, ul. Piękna 20, tel. (+48) 22 627 41 50, www.ryziryba. Restaurant Literatka interior creates a great atmosphere and those who want pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (12-42zł). more than just raw fi sh should take a look at the grill dishes T6UVGBSW is pleased to invite you for delicious (be sure to try the salmon in teriyaki sauce).QB-4, ul. No- dishes of traditional Polish and wogrodzka 84/86, tel. (+48) 22 622 59 55, www.inaba.pl. SOTO SUSHI international cuisine. Open 11:30 - 22:00. (25-58zł). TVGSW Warsaw’s Sushi glitterati have always rated the original Soto Sushi on Al. KEN very highly indeed, with many devotees KIKU JAPANESE DINING GALLERY regularly making the pilgrimage to deepest, darkest Ursyn- Our advice when coming to this typically Japan-in-a-packet ów in order to visit their favourite shrine. Well, now they decorated place is simple: forget the sushi and just ask for don’t need to bother, Soto have opened another branch in the noodle menu. Never before in this city have we eaten the centre of the city! The crisp white and minimal interior such fresh, spicy and downright tasty noodles as we have at highlighted with pale green neon wall lighting makes for Kiku. At around 25zł a bowl, a portion of noodles here - and a rather sterile look which made me think of those ultra- the seafood ones are best - represents terrifi c value.QB-2, violet fl y zappers in butcher’s shops, probably just my over- ul. Senatorska 17/19, tel. (+48) 22 892 09 01, www.kiku. active imagination though. On the other hand, the overall pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (25-65zł). UVGBSW look of this sushi bar presents a feeling of cleanliness and order which is refl ected in the beautifully presented and ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 87/89, Warsaw OTO!SUSHI carefully prepared sushi. The salmon tartare gunkanmaki is Tel. +48 22 497 57 72 One of our favorite sushi spots in Warsaw. Sure, the loca- yummy and a special mention has to be made for the killer Tel./fax. +48 22 827 30 54 tion helps - who can argue with sitting outside on swanky lemon pepper shrimp soup.QC-4, ul. Wilcza 26, tel. (+48) e-mail: [email protected] Nowy Świat? - but the helpful staff , great tea options and 22 629 94 85, www.sotosushi.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, www.literatka.com.pl fair prices put it squarely on top. A vegetarian sushi set for Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (15-56zł). TVGBSW

42 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 43 Restaurants Restaurants TOMO SUSHI Many claim you won’t fi nd better sushi in Warsaw, and who LEBANESE SILK & SPICY are we to argue with the masses. Tomo’s reputation is well LE CEDRE 84 earned, and as such don’t be surprised to be knocking el- This popular Middle Eastern staple hops across the river to .. SUSHI& THAI RESTAURANT bows with sushi snobs showing off deft chopstick moves. a more accessible location at the intersection of Jana Pawła QC-4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) 22 434 23 44, www. and al. Solidarności and thankfully brings all their reliably tomo.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun exotic fl avours along too. The interior is a magenta master- 12:00 - 22:00. (45-80zł). 6UGBSW piece and sets the scene for you and your Scheherazade to explore the hefty menu. Our recommendation: though we’re NEW fans of the entrees like shawarma your best bet is to mix and WABU SUSHI BAR match hot and cold starters, of which there’s a dazzling array Wabu has no set menu and no fi ddling around with hot (stuff ed grape leaves and grilled halloumi top our list).QA-3, dishes, instead the sushi masters on hand chat with the cli- Al. Solidarności 84, tel. (+48) 22 618 89 99, www.lecedre. entele and come up with creative compositions matched pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (32-59zł). TVGBSW to the individual. Discretely colour coded plates make it simplicity itself to keep track of what price range you’re ma- noeuvring around. The team also works closely with a som- MEDITERRANEAN melier to match drinks to the diff erent fl avours - including NEW two specially selected champagnes. The interior is a mini- DWIE TRZECIE Silk & Spicy is a beautiful mal and elegantly unfussy gem. A nice touch is the fact that A large and exciting L-shaped restaurant featuring a signa- and delicious destination that they left an original communist era abstract mosaic on the ture, Mediterranean inspired, menu devised by award win- wall which blends in with the zen-like atmosphere perfectly. ning head chef Marcin Jabłoński. Ingredients used in the connects the two exotic world QC-4, ul. Krucza 41/43 (corner of Żurawia), tel. (+48) 22 kitchen are sourced from local, ecologically certifi ed pro- cuisines of Th ailand and Japan. 628 92 74, www.wabu.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. UGW ducers - including daily supplies from the highly regarded and well established Jabłoński family’s own fertile lands. In- WASABI novative and stunning cuisine in a modern yet homely and Located in the stunning Metropolitan building, designed comfortable atmosphere. A weekly ‘fi sh market’ appears on Th e Philosophy of Silk & Spicy: by Sir Norman Foster, Wasabi is a smart and tranquil sushi Wednesdays and Thursdays, with fresh sea monsters fl own food determines your consciousness, restaurant in one of the city’s more upmarket areas. As well in within hours of being landed from the fi shing grounds pleasure and harmony. as an extensive range of freshly prepared sushi, the menu of the Atlantic. Remember to also check out Jedna Trzecia, also off ers a fi ne selection of Korean and Japanese hot dish- their specialist Belgian beer bar next doorQF-4, ul. Wilcza es including bulgogi (fried marinated beef with vegetables) 50/52, tel. (+48) 22 623 02 90, www.dwietrzecie.waw.pl. and the heavenly fried duck in a teriyaki sauce. A selection Open 12:00 - 23:00. (30-60zł). TGBSW of Japanese beers, plum wines and sake complement the dishes perfectly. For maximum eff ect and a more intimate PAROS dining experience try to grab a space in the enclosed fl oor Paros is the fi rst and last place in Warsaw where a waiter seating area.QB-2, Pl. Piłsudskiego 2, tel. (+48) 22 314 69 pulled out our chair and helped us with our coat - - colour 63, www.restauracjawasabi.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, us charmed by the gallantry. That attention carried over to Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (8-55zł). 6UVGBSW the meal, with Greek staples like hefty salads and bite-sized spanakopitas all imparting the taste of the Mediterranean. The restaurant itself is so large it can be half fi lled with cus- KOSHER tomers and still seem spacious, even with a packed white GALIL wraparound bar in the middle of the room.QB-3, ul. Jasna Housed in one of the beautiful old townhouses on ul. Zielna, 14/16a, tel. (+48) 22 828 10 67, www.paros-restauracja. bordering the area of the former Warsaw Ghetto, Galil’s menu pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. (18-73zł). ul. Żurawia 16/20 is a rich and wonderful fusion of Israeli, Arabic, Mediterra- TUEGBSW nean and Polish infl uences. The restaurant holds a kosher 00-515 Warsaw, Poland certifi cate from Rabbi Yosef Karasik and all products and RESTAURACJA OLIVA tel.: (+48) 22 629 70 12 food preparation adhere to the strict Orthodox standards of Take a well-deserved break from the racket of Nowy Świat Kashrut. Splash out on one of the house specialities like the and visit this unpretentious yet smart, light and airy restau- email: [email protected] succulent red wine and thyme marinated entrecote served rant on the quiet ul. Ordynacka. The Mediterranean based with Lyonnaise potatoes and a fattoush salad, or the date menu includes a healthy dose of homemade pasta dishes www.silkandspicy.pl syrup glazed chicken breast. The drinks list includes kosher and pizzas which are created to their own recipes. A stand- spirits from the famous Strykover distillery near Łódź.In ad- out main dish is the succulent Guinea fowl piccata, game dition to the elegant main dining area, the restaurant also rarely found on Warsaw menus. As the name suggests, the has two rooms which can be reserved for a more private din- menu is strongly infl uenced by the use of olive oil and the / silkandspicy ing experience.QF-2, ul. Zielna 37, tel. (+48) 731 49 26 34, restaurant also has a display of fi ne olive oils from a number www.galil-restaurant.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - of countries for sale. Staff get full marks from us for neither 23:00. Closed Fri, Sat. (34-75zł). TUBXSW pretending to be your best mate, nor seeing you as their

44 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 45 Restaurants Restaurants worst enemy - they get it just right. The corner location 99 RESTAURANT & BAR BIAŁA GĘŚ food & also has a nice terrace area for the warmer weather. Con- A fixture on the Warsaw dining scene for over ten years Biała Gęś unseated a favourite restaurant, Restauracja Pol- EAT WARSAW sidering the ambience and quality, prices are excellent. and still going strong in the local corporate lunch trade. ska Tradycja, and used their name as the subtitle (in large vodka QC-3, ul. Ordynacka 10/12, tel. (+48) 22 826 70 60, An updated design which is space age white and rather font). We were inclined to dislike it as a result, but after a www.restauracjaoliva.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. (26-62zł). dashing compliments a highly-recommended, global visit we couldn’t help but enjoy. The menu is defi nitely tourS TYGBSW menu which includes what’s possibly the best steak upper-crust - you can get a coated goose for 490zl if the let us in Warsaw. Located within a stone’s throw of some of mood strikes - but the changing seasonal menu is both the city’s finest hotels, this is one of the most reliable more reasonable and creative. The dumpling with goose explain. MIDDLE EASTERN places in town from breakfast through to supper wheth- and cranberry sauce was rich yet light, a description that SOKOTRA er you’re socialising, doing business or a bit of both. is also apt for the dacquoise meringue with coff ee crème. The restaurant takes its name from the isolated Yemeni is- QA-3, Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. (+48) 22 620 19 99, The over-decorated interior, complete with Polish music land of Sokotra, a geographic location once described as www.restaurant99.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 from the 1930s, has to be overlooked for enjoyment.QG- “the most alien-looking place on earth.” Warsaw’s Sokotra - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (29-99zł). 5, ul. Belwederska 18 a, tel. (+48) 22 840 50 60, www. is neither isolated nor alien-looking, it’s situated in the city UBXSW bialages.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (40- centre and its interior is a cool modernist take on the sim- 120zł). TGBSW plest of Arabic design. Traditional Yemeni cuisine is heavily ATELIER AMARO infl uenced by Indian, refl ected by the heavy, rich and well- It’s not hyperbole to call Atelier Amaro one of Poland’s NEW seasoned sauces with most of the dishes here - ideal for most modern restaurants, and the folks at Michelin cer- CUD MIÓD some serious roti dipping. The lentil, lemon and green chilli tainly agree; it is the fi rst restaurant in the country to land Cud Miód is certainly keen on having something for every- soup was stunning and the mutton, okra and tomato dish a coveted Michelin star. All the credit goes to famed chef one. The interior is a mix of rustic Polish/European elements was great. There’s standard table dining if you’ve just had and owner Wojciech Modest Amaro, who describes the with some modern style fi ttings and the entrance area is feel poland on your palate. your hip replaced, or try the cushioned fl oor sitting area cuisine as “where nature meets science.” That ‘science’ is taken up with their Italian market style deli section, so try Q the FOOD TOUR. the VODKA TOUR.TOUR . for an even more authentic experience. C-4, ul. Wilcza molecular gastronomy, which means almost nothing is not to trip over the crates and boxes littering the fl oor. The Price: 69€ / person Price: 49€ / person 27, tel. (+48) 22 270 27 66, www.sokotra.pl. Open 12:00 as it seems: an amuse-bouche arrives on the table with a menu is an odd mix; a host of traditionally based Polish dish- 4h, 15 types of food 3h, 6 types of vodka - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (20-40zł). T6UG fl ourish of dry ice fog, revealing caviar atop a surprisingly es, Mediterranean off erings, seafood, fusion, burgers and Book the tour 24h ahead! BSW citrusy foam. Meals can be 3, 5 or 8 “moments” (what even curry pops up on the list. A casual and attractive venue www.eatWARSAw.com us regular folks call courses) and employ traditional particularly suited to those who can peruse this type of +48 513 605 518; +48 502 815 844 Polish plants like nettles and beetroot in unexpected, menu and not change their minds every 30 seconds!QB-4, POLISH highly creative dishes - like juniper ice cream hugging ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. (+48) 22 630 30 39, www. There are basically three ways you can experience the a miniature chocolate cake with chestnuts (with dishes cudmiod.pl. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun Polish dining experience. The cheapest is at one of the changing almost daily, your menu will undoubtedly be 10:00 - 23:00. (31-76zł). T6UGBSW surprisingly large number of surviving communist era diff erent). Count us as impressed that Amaro himself Milk Bars, which you can read about elsewhere. Then can be seen serving many of the dishes in this intimate CZERWONY WIEPRZ there are the chains of ‘country cottage’ style places which restaurant just inside Łazienki Park. An absolute must for Workers of the world unite around a large choice of well- turn out Polish staples of rye soup, stuff ed dumplings and diehard foodies. Keep in mind that Fridays and Saturdays presented Socialist Bloc cuisine. Deriving its name from a heaps of meat and veg in gut-busting portions. The third they serve only “8 moment” dinners and children under former meeting place for members of the early communist form is still a relatively new one and involves a growing 14 years of age are not allowed any day. The restaurant movement, legend has it that even Lenin paid this place a number of young, world-class chefs using their talents to will be closed for their summer break from August 3-20. visit in 1909. The interior is based on the style favoured by bring Polish cuisine into the 21st century. We can happily QG-4, ul. Agrykola 1, tel. (+48) 22 628 57 47, www. the 1950’s -1960’s party elite, and the walls are bedecked recommend all three forms depending on the occasion. atelieramaro.pl. Open 12:00 - 14:30, 18:00 - 22:30; with memorabilia of the era. Somehow the owners have Take a look at the places listed here to give you an idea Mon, Sat 18:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (185-320zł). managed to carefully side swerve tackiness and the whole of which is which. UGBW experience has a lovely, faded and nostalgic glam to it. Immensely popular with locals and tourists alike (includ- 22 BISTRO BURGER BELVEDERE ing Bruce Willis and boxing champ Lennox Lewis), 2012 It’s at number 22, it’s a bistro and sells burgers. Here’s hop- Nestled inside Łazienki Park, Belvedere is a romantic saw ‘The Hog’ voted one of the 25 best and most interesting they didn’t employ Saatchi and Saatchi to come up with orangery filled with foliage and a smattering of well- ing restaurants in the world by the Spanish Trade Lead- the name! The burgers have some brilliant names though, dressed tables both inside and out. Having recently ers’ Club.QE-2, ul. Żelazna 68, tel. (+48) 22 850 31 44, based on Warsaw landmarks and local lads from diff erent undergone a head to toe renovation, the Belvedere is www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (24-69zł). districts like ‘the smart alec from Ochota’ and ‘Jacky-boy a stunningly dramatic venue with peacocks wandering TUGBSW from Wola.’ They also off er up plenty of Polish staples (po- the grounds and multiple waiters offering first class ser- tato pancakes, pierogi) to balance out the menu. In the vice. The food lives up to the atmosphere, and a menu DAWNE SMAKI beverage dept. they off er up fi ve splendid Czech beers, in- overhaul means you’ll have a variety of new dishes to It’s great to fi nd a traditional Polish restaurant amongst cluding Litovel on draught. If you’re looking for something choose from. Few places in Warsaw are this classy or the endless string of international eateries on Nowy a little stronger try out one of their designer shots (Sour this expensive, and dare we say women are right to as- Świat. Dawne Smaki thrives on old style Polish cooking, Cherry, Bubble Gum Vodka)! Don’t miss their daily lunches sume a booking here means something big is in order. so get ready to sample a comprehensive range of home- from Mon- Fri 12:00 - 16:00, price 19zł.QG-3, ul. Nowy QG-5, ul. Agrykoli 1 (New Orangery in Łazienki Park, grown specialities. The whole spectrum is pretty much Świat 22, tel. (+48) 22 692 46 99, www.22nowyswiat. entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. (+48) 22 558 67 00, covered, from the basics like herrings in oil, pig’s trotters pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - www.belvedere.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (42- in aspic, potato cakes and pierogi, right up to some high 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (20-32zł). 6GBSW 108zł). GS class mains like loin of venison and hand chopped steak

46 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 47 Restaurants Restaurants tartare. Although a rather fearsome looking fresh water FOLK GOSPODA based predator may not be on your list of priorities, pike Far from promising on the outside, Folk Gospoda unravels has always been popular throughout Poland’s culinary on entry as a glorious slice of traditional Poland. It’s inside a history; the more adventurous should try Dawne Smaki’s rugged interior of stout furnishings and ceramic pots you’ll version, which comes fried and served in a light creamy fi nd boys and girls in peasant attire rushing around carry- sauce with crayfi sh. Find Kasztelan and Green Bergen ing plates of fortifying Polish food (think heaps of duck). beers on tap, plus live music 3 times a week. Private par- Indeed, the Polish highlands meet the city inside Gospoda, ties can rent a VIP space too. QC-3, ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. and that’s never more so than when the band strikes up to (+48) 22 465 83 20, www.dawnesmaki.pl. Open 12:00 - hoot and holler over the sound of busy diners. Be sure to 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (19-95zł). check out the wild Polish trout, an eco-friendly dish that 44 Nowy Świat Street, Warsaw T6UEGBW will have your shirt buttons pinging off in no time. On weekends the restaurant thoughtfully employs a kids cor- Traditional Polish Cuisine DELICJA POLSKA ner with child minders from 12:00 - 17:00 so you can prop- and Regional Products Just minutes away from the Old Town and housed in the erly focus on your food.QE-2, ul. Waliców 13, tel. (+48) Spanish cuisine listed Dom Polonii building, Delicja Polska is a great choice 22 890 16 05, www.folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Top quality products and for those looking to dine on traditional Polish dishes within (29-69zł). TUGBSW an elegant and spacious establishment in the heart of the a casual atmosphere main sight-seeing area of the city. The menu is construct- HALKA RESTAURACJA PO POLSKU ed around the freshest, seasonally available produce and Named after one of Poland’s best loved operas Halka takes the old world styled interior avoids the usual dark wood its name seriously; interiors here have been painstakingly and sombre tones of much of the competition, instead designed to mimic a 19th century country manor, a clear it manages to combine the atmosphere of Warsaw’s rich nod to Stanisław Moniuszko’s popular script. Dripping with heritage with an airy and fresh ambience.QF-2, ul. Kra- elegance and lordly touches this is upmarket Polish food at kowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. (+48) 22 826 47 70, www. its best. And despite what the well-done interior might sug- delicjapolska.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (29-69zł). TG gest, they even have a children’s corner.QE-3, ul. Pańska BSW 85, tel. (+48) 509 59 33 05, www.restauracjahalka.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (22-55zł). DOM POLSKI TGBSW Much ink has been spilt over the virtues of Dom Polski, some of it in these pages, but there is no getting away NEW from the fact that this is a good restaurant. Found in a L’ENFANT TERRIBLE KOBE Style beef (WAGYU) Discover delicious Polish cuisine: discreet villa on Warsaw’s millionaires’ row you can expect This rebellious new kid on the block is already causing mur- Original Polish Recipes Rolls Royce service from the minute you walk in. The food murings amongst those who enjoy dining on the culinary Excellent steaks - tender, juicy Meat and other ingredients from ecological is equally good, chosen from a menu which is mercifully precipice. If dishes like beetroot and mackerel ice cream or and flavorful and family run farms short, with just a couple of starters and several main cours- converting the humble tomato into the taste equivalent of We also recommend: Souvenirs from Poland: es to choose from; how it should be, in other words. We a fi ery red 1000 horse power Ferrari then this is the place for Delicious cold cuts, cheeses and preserves as well went for the żurek followed by the potato pancakes with you. Top chef Michał Bryś honed his craft at a number of 2 Spanish aged-beef as the best Polish mead, traditional Polish aged fruit smoked salmon and red caviar, and couldn’t fault a thing. and 3 Michelin starred restaurants - including The Ledbury QH-3, ul. Francuska 11, tel. (+48) 22 616 24 32, www. in London. For all the Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde work going on liquors and vodkas plus jewellery made from striped flint and amber joined with bog oak. restauracjadompolski.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (32-93zł). in the kitchen, the restaurant space itself presents an unfussy, Old Town TUGBSW casual and relaxing environment. FYI- They will be closed for the summer until August 11.QG-5, ul. Sandomierska 13 Ordynacka

Kopernika FLORIAN (entrance from ul. Rejtana), tel. (+48) 22 119 57 05, www. Warecka Transport yourself back to the 19th century, if you ignore eterrible.pl. Open 12:30 - 15:30, 18:30 - 22:00; Sat 13:00 - GW Szczygła the fl at screen TV, and gorge yourself on traditional Polish 15:30, 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (30-89zł). Nowy Świat fare. The pastel coloured rooms are bedecked with an- Przybosia tiques, paintings, all forms of dried fl ora and various bits LITERATKA Foksal and bobs. Luckily, Florian manages to stay just the right side Located in the shadow of Zygmunt’s column on the War- Chmielna of being overly stuff ed with such decorative items, making saw’s poshest street, Literatka is a traditional Polish res- 10% discount off of menu prices it an ideal place to savour some old style Polish dishes in a taurant with a cosy feel and an impressive range of Polski in our Restaurant and Food Boutique with this ad. relaxing atmosphere. Perhaps not the most exciting item and international dishes. Pierogi, pork and duck all make on the menu, but the pierogi are exquisite! The charming an appearance as well as a more than acceptable sirloin bar, designed around a 300 year old fi replace, is located in steak. It’s not bad at all and a suitable way to fi nish a day 2 Bracka Street +48 662 254 215 the attic room. The building itself is rather interesting, origi- ploughing the tourist trail in the adjacent old town, and [email protected] nally built by General Wilhelm Mier as a barracks for the Sz- the Mon-Fri lunch special (12:00-17:00 soup and a main for (next to Trzech Krzyży Square) Q Q www.specjalyregionalne.pl wolezerow guard way back in the early 18th century. A- 19zl) is a deal. B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 87/89 tel. +48 519 875 767 Find us on www.tripadvisor.com 3, ul. Chłodna 3, tel. (+48) 22 620 93 98, www.fl orian. (second entrance - ul. Senatorska 3), tel. (+48) 22 827 30 pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (18-55zł). 54, www.literatka.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (30-70zł). www.ole-restaurant.pl TYXSW T6EBXSW

48 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 49 Restaurants Restaurants ed to elite by elegant table settings and excellent service, and includes not one, but three VIP rooms, plus a plush cigar room that’s also stocked with Scottish single-malt whiskies. To give you a sense of the calibre of the cuisine here, the Sole Douver Meuniere was worthy of an award. So delicious it’s almost embarrassing to eat in public, we worry what might happen when we try the venison.QG- 5, ul. Gagarina 2 (entrance from ul. Czerniakowska), tel. (+48) 22 840 70 71, www.sowaiprzyjaciele.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (30-110zł). TUG Well-known BSW and respected ‚Osteria‘ SPECJAŁY REGIONALNE invites you to enjoy This is a great café and deli that has recently undergone a sizable expansion. They serve up meat and potatoes in all delicious fish and their varying Polish forms, but in small enough portions to not come away in pain. Think Polish tapas - it’s a great seafood... place to go and sample the full range of Polish sausage meat and ham, especially when the prices are so small. As „This is the only an extra bonus, if you really like what you have you can order some more from the deli to take home for later. such restaurant in Warsaw.“ Furthermore, the owner is something of a mead fanatic and they have a great hot and cold selection. Also at ul. Gagarina 4 (Mokotów), ul. Dąbrowskiego 3 (Mokotów), ul. Felińskiego 52 (Żoliborz) and ul. Ostrobramska 75c (Atrium Promenada, Praga Południe).QC-3, ul. Nowy Świat 44, tel. (+48) 662 25 42 15, www.specjalyregionalne.pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00. GSW

U FUKIERA RESTAURACJA RÓŻANA is mind-boggling. Prepare to have your senses blown The most famous restaurant in town with a guestbook A two fl oor pre-war villa full of chichi touches, fl owers away.QF-2, ul. Bielańska 12, tel. (+48) 22 331 96 97, that speaks for itself; Naomi Campbell, Henry Kissinger and crockery. Very pretty, but you’ll soon learn they at- www.sensesrestaurant.pl. Open 12:00 - 14:30, 17:30 and Sarah Ferguson are a few of the names who’ve taken tract return custom on account of the cooking, not the - 22:00; Sat 17:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (84-110zł). a seat here. The interior is a work of art, crowded with interiors. The setting might look high end but the prices UGW paintings and antiques, it’s hard not to feel a part of his- are certainly not, and you’ll fi nd Różana recognized tory when dining here. The food is the perfect indulgence across the city as one of the best dinner deals around. SŁONY with perfectly presented game dishes. Your bill is a dif- The veal liver with onions and cherry sauce is divine. Magda Gessler strikes again, but not with the usual over- ferent matter, and may present a double Dutch situation. Plenty claim to open till the last customer but only these decorated sit-down restaurant we’ve come to expect; this QB-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, tel. (+48) 22 831 10 guys are the real deal - if there’s people dining then the time the celebrity restaurateur has created a grown-up 13, www.ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (41-105zł). LIVE MUSIC kitchen will stay open, and that doesn’t matter if it’s snack bar that’s a complete knockout. A glass case in the TGBW midnight or daybreak. Give a quick call ahead to check. middle of the restaurant houses a variety of canapés to QG-5, ul. Chocimska 7, tel. (+48) 22 848 12 25, www. choose from - wouldn’t the French die to see smalec and WARSZAWA WSCHODNIA restauracjarozana.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (30- pickles on a canapé? - and the menu is populated with Not content with running a rather large number of restau- 70zł). TEGBSW small meaty dishes primarily in the 4-12zł range (can we rants in the city centre, the Gessler clan now set their sights call it Polish tapas?). The simple homemade white sausage on the never-quite-rejuvenated area of post-industrial SENSES with onion jam is on our city-wide best-of list, and with one Praga with this new venture in one of the old buildings Situated between the historic and war scarred Reduta entire wall utilised for wine storage you can sip and snack of the Soho Factory complex. One of the two brick walled Bank building and the new Senator office complex, your way to pure bliss.QG-4, ul. Piękna 11 (entrance rooms is vast, the smaller room has a central kitchen area Senses is part of the micro-elite of Warsaw’s world class, from ul. Krucza), tel. (+48) 22 629 03 64, www.slony. which diners sit around and watch the frantic goings-on innovate and ultramodern dining establishments. Head pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (12-49zł). of the chefs at work. Ultimately, this ‘island’ eating concept Entrance from Poznanska 2 str. chef, Andrea Camastra, relishes the culinary traditions 6GSW is rather irritating, noisy and a tad ‘aromatic’ in our opinion. (Ul. Koszykowa 54), and produce of Poland, so the menu may be strongly Mind you, none of that stops the young, rich and beauti- Tel. 22 621 16 46, Mob. 601 243 466 rooted in tradition but his dynamic, uncompromising SOWA & PRZYJACIELE ful from piling in here. The kitchen, under the command of www.osteria.pl, [email protected] and experimental approach in achieving his vision take The pet project of well-known Polish master chef Robert Robert Kondziela, presents a modern take on Polish clas- things to unprecedented levels - the state of the art Sowa, this outstanding restaurant raises the bar not only sics and contemporary French cuisine, and serves it ‘round Q OPEN: Mon-Sat 12:00 – 23:00 or last guest, kitchen features its own laboratory room where miracles with its extensive range of tantalising dishes that sound so the clock. ul. Mińska 25 (Praga Południe), tel. (+48) 22 Sun 13:00 – 21:00 or last guest happen. The interior masterfully blends the feeling of good you’ll want to eat the menu, but also with the level of 870 29 18, www.gessler.sohofactory.pl. Open 24hrs. (39- the surrounding architecture and the attention to detail hospitality. The ostensibly casual, modern interior is elevat- 78zł). T6UEGBSW

50 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 51 Restaurants Restaurants ZAPIECEK OLE TAPAS STEAK RESTAURANT HEALTHY EATING Packed through all hours this pierogi kitchen assumes the Warsaw’s hankering for a fi ne steak shows no sign of abat- ‘Grandmother’s country cottage’ look, with pots and pans ing with the highly respected Ole doubling in size by add- When it comes to trends, Poland is often late to adopt hanging from every shelf, and lots of hard timber touches. ing a new and more formal room to the restaurant. Choose what other countries would now consider routine. Much talked about, their deliciously light dough pockets between the bistro like original space with its whirlwind of So it goes with the green, eco-friendly fad, which has come with all the fi llings you can imagine. If you don’t fl amenco and bullfi ghting imagery or step through into the reached a fevered pitch in many major cities while War- fancy a sit down then check their street-level take away quiet, elegant and more formal new space featuring a wall saw is just beginning to embrace the idea. A group of window for lunch-on-the-run. Also at Al. Jerozolimskie 28 of wines and prints of how your steak looked while its heart new (and already popular) venues are using their green (C-4), Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (D-1, Arkadia) ul. Freta 18 (B-1), ul. was still beating. No need to mess with a winning combi- status as a major lure for customers in eff ort we expect Wańkowicza 1 (Kabaty), ul. Freta 1 (B-1), ul. Świętojańska nation so the menu remains staunchly the same; including will soon be duplicated all over the city. 13 (B-2).QC-4, ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. (+48) 22 692 41 Wagyu (Kobe style), Basque and Polish steaks, Pata Negra 35, www.zapiecek.eu. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - ham and Ole’s legendary foie gras.QC-4, ul. Bracka 2, tel. CAFÉ 6/12 24:00. (19-36zł). TGS (+48) 519 87 57 67, www.ole-restaurant.pl. Open 12:00 - A prominent Warsaw café, and one popular with ad 23:00. (60-200zł). GBSW execs and scenesters. Making good use of the high ceilings and socialist granite touches 6/12 features trance SEAFOOD SOL Y SOMBRA like music and subdued lighting, adding a chilled out OSTERIA Formerly Cuatro Caminos Tapas Bar, Sol y Sambra seems to element to this long-living establishment. However, this Some of the best seafood in Warsaw, with a menu featur- have kept the former’s kitschy décor as well as their consistently place is so much more than a café, and a thumb through ing fresh oysters, langoustines, parrotfi sh (yes, really) and delicious cuisine (new owner, new chef), which is authentically the menu confi rms so; the smoothies, and there’s mil- some very good octopus. The modern interior includes Spanish to the core. The lunch special lands you soup and a lions to choose from, are hands down the best in the hardwood and porthole fi nishes, as well as aquariums from main, and we can’t say enough for the gazpacho when it’s in city, while food choices include a range of light gourmet which African fi sh look on in alarm as their colleagues meet season. The paella requires a bit of a wait but it’s well worth it, bites you’d imagine a Kate Moss character stabbing her Q Q a sticky end in the open kitchen. F-3, ul. Koszykowa 54 and the tenderloin with goat cheese is also highly recommend- fork at. C-4, ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22 622 53 33, (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. (+48) 22 621 16 46, ed. As the third tapas bar to call this address home we’re think- www.612.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Q T6GBSW www.osteria.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. ing this one is a keeper. A-3, ul. Grzybowska 2 lok.16, tel. Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (20-65zł). (49-122zł). GBSW (+48) 22 404 70 11, www.solysombra.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (29-49zł). 6UEGBSW KLUBOKAWIARNIA RESORT What looks like a normal café at fi rst glance is anything SPANISH NEW but: old bathtubs have been turned into couches, metal CASA PABLO TAPAS GASTROBAR shopping carts now serve as seats, and the bar is made Spanish restaurants are few and far between in Warsaw, so There can be no better recommendation for this smart, yet from colourful stacks of old books (it’s worth a visit it’s not hard to stand out if that’s the menu you’re sling- simply designed, tapas bar than the fact that they have been to their Facebook page to see how they created this ing. Yet Casa Pablo doesn’t rest on those laurels and ups the known to reduce some of their Spanish customers to tears unique bar). Even cardboard tubes have been reinvent- ante with creative Spanish-infl uenced cuisine. Try the deli- as their minds hurtle back to the real tastes of home. The bar ed as chairs. While the décor is decidedly reused, the cious Carpacho de vieiras- carpaccio from St. James mussels is the brainchild of the team behind the superb Casa Pablo, food and drinks are true originals. Cocktails are made served with homemade foie gras mi-cuit, caulifl ower and so you know to expect great things. The authentic and tra- with fresh fruit, while stomachs can be lined with what- grilled pineapple drizzled with olive oil . That doesn’t even ditional range of around 30 tapas dishes are representative ver tasty concoctions the chef comes up with on a reg- touch on the desserts, or the specials we’ve seen...not that of the many regions of Spain and the kitchen is run by a ular basis. Fortunately, you can drink your bottled beer you’ll need any extra enticements once you’ve explored chef from Saragossa whose passion for the art could well or Argentine cola without any guilt since Resort makes Q Q Q this unique menu. A-3, ul. Grzybowska 5a, tel. (+48) be unsurpassed in the city. Quite brilliant! E-3, ul. Grzy- recycling a part of its mission. B-2, ul. Bielańska 1, 22 324 57 81, www.casapablo.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, bowska 63 (Hotel Hilton), tel. (+48) 22 251 13 10, www. tel. (+48) 507 17 99 35. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun TUG 6BXSW Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (45-85zł). tapasgastrobar.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 10:00 - 02:00. (10-12zł). BSW 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (6-36zł). T6UEBSW

VEG DELI LA VIÑA Situated on a tranquil tree-lined residential street in the La Vina successfully brings a little slice of Spain to War- TEX-MEX Powiśle area of the city, Veg Deli has certainly managed saw. A wine bar, tapas bar, restaurant and shop are all DOS TACOS to up the ante regarding vegetarian restaurants in War- combined in this light and smart space. The wines are The 5th fl oor of the Millennium Plaza business and retail saw. The freshly prepared vegetarian, vegan and gluten all sourced from northern Spain and selected by the building may not be the most attractive of settings for visi- free dishes are richly coloured, fragrant and look, smell Spanish boss (who is also a part owner of the Bode- tors to the city but Dos Tacos is popular with the people who and taste amazing. Even seasoned carnivores such as us gas Santa Rufino vineyard), and the kitchen is under work there, including the staff of the Mexican Embassy. The were knocked out by the food and natural drinks on off er. the control of two chefs from Malaga. Top food, refined darkly lit interior features a host of Mexican style nick-nacks, The restaurant itself is best summed up as the opposite of wines, fantastically friendly staff and a lovely attitude a colour scheme inspired by the country’s fl ag and a neat Dr. Who’s Tardis - it looks huge from the outside, a chunky towards demystifying the snobbery of the quality wine mosaic covered bar. The owner, Angelika Luengas Kałamaga, old townhouse with tall and stylish old windows, but on scene in Warsaw makes this one of our favourite places constructs the dishes from her own family’s traditional reci- the inside it’s a pretty small and simple split level aff air. in town.QE-4, ul. Tarczyńska 1 (entrance from ul. pes and the sexy drinks come courtesy of top Polish mixer QG-2, ul. Radna 14, tel. (+48) 733 66 98 74. Open 12:00 - Q T6GBSW Raszyńska), tel. (+48) 22 416 27 50, www.lavinabar. Łukasz Klocek. E-3, Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. (+48) 22 21:30, Sun 12:00 - 19:30. (20-30zł). pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. From September 243 46 18, www.dostacos.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:30, Fri, Sat open 12:00 - 23:00. (20-80zł). XSW 11:00 - 23:00. (19-45zł). T6UGSW

52 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 53 Restaurants Restaurants WARSAW TORTILLA FACTORY THAI THAI STEAK In a country that considers ketchup spicy we’re always trep- Run by the Godfather of Warsaw’s Thai cuisine, Surachart idacious when restaurants boast of any sort of heat factor. Urajaroen, this restaurant is 100% the real deal. No messing The steakhouse has enjoyed prime (get it?) placement Fortunately, the Warsaw Tortilla Factory isn’t kidding when around with fusion concepts or little Polish additions. The on Warsaw’s dining scene of late, and talk of the best they call their habanero mango salsa “explosive.” The rest of fi ve strong Thai kitchen team stick fi rmly to tradition and cuts, grass-fed beef and who has the juiciest New York the Tex-Mex menu also lives up to expectations, with out- the results are spectacular. Based in the National Theatre strip can be hashed out at this list of Warsaw’s steak- sized burritos few adults can fi nish and a cheesy Philly taco building itself, the exterior of hefty, grey stonework gives centric restaurants. that’s so wrong it’s right. And don’t forget chicken wings you no inkling of the opulent interior which awaits you. for 1zł on Tuesdays. Heck we’d probably lick the guacamole Black walls decorated with Thai designs and gold curved AMIGOS off the fl oor and wash it down with a Corona. We doubt ceilings create a very calming and relaxing environment. This large Western-themed restaurant stakes a claim anyone at the WTF would blink if we did since the mixed The well laid out seating areas also off er you the option of for being both an American steakhouse and a Tex-Mex crowd of locals and ex-pats is equally as focused on their dining in a more private space, great for business meetings joint. Their massive menu is fi lled with classic texas style salsa-laden plates.QF-3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel. (+48) 22 621 86 or an intimate dinner date.QB-2, Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. (+48) cuts of cow and pork (Rib Eyes and Ribs!). The secret of 22, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, 601 81 82 83, www.thaithai.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (37- their sizzling steaks is head chef Tony Perini, former pri- Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (29-79zł). T6EBXSW 120zł). TUGBSW vate chef to George W. Bush. Since his arrive all of their steaks are prepared to strict Texas standards. If grilled The First American meat ain’t up your street head south of the border for THAI UKRAINIAN some burritos, quesadillas and enchilladas. The interior NATARA KAMANDA LWOWSKA Steakhouse in Warsaw is a cross between Blazing Saddles and Desperado so Located within the defensive walls surrounding the Old Town, Here’s a restaurant that gets back to basics, off ering up a make sure to bring your 10 gallon sombrero. Buckle up Natara serves up a vast array of authentic Thai dishes. Don’t cavalcade of dishes that have been otherwise deleted from Amigos!QA-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 119, tel. (+48) 22 be put off by the ‘school project’ style advertising outside the modern Warsaw. Featuring peasant pictures and brick ceil- 629 39 69, www.restauracjaamigos.pl. Open 11:00 restaurant, or the fact that the owners have no interest in the ings this isn’t the experiment in vanity you expect of ul. Fok- - 23:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:30. (29-99zł). UG ultra-modern Warsaw eatery design trends of the moment. sal, choosing instead to hark to the times when Ukrainian BSW They stick to an old-school colonial look, which actually suits Lviv was actually Polish Lwów. The emphasis is fi rmly on the location perfectly, and concentrating on what they do best the good old days - before moustached dictators started BUTCHERY & WINE - Thai cooking! If the lengthy menu sets your mind spinning, dictating Poland’s borders - and the design is a pleasing A wonderful addition to the Warsaw dining scene we can highly recommend the tom yum kung spicy coconut jumble of craftwork and clutter. The menu, too, has been winning points for originality and simplicity. This soup and the green curry chicken, or simply go with one of painstakingly perfected, and includes such masterstrokes bright, modern, relaxed venue has an open kitchen their daily specials.QB-1, ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. (+48) 22 as tatar and a meringue cake with raspberry mousse. and enough wine on display to fl oat a battleship. The 635 25 01. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (20-35zł). GBS QC-3, ul. Foksal 10, tel. (+48) 22 828 10 31, www. menu features a range of real steaks prepared exactly kamandalwowska.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (39-90zł). to order and served on wooden boards with addi- PAPAYA TEGBSW tional sauce and side options. While it doesn’t have We’ll never tire of recommending Papaya, an ice white ven- to be steak (the rest of the menu also looked mouth- ue rated as one of the best restaurants in the city. Oysters watering) we can’t imagine ever daring to order any- come plucked from the aquarium, while an open kitchen VEGETARIAN thing. Highly recommended!QB-4, ul. Żurawia 22, allows the pleasure of watching the chefs at work; these GREEN BAR tel. (+48) 22 502 31 18, www.butcheryandwine. guys don’t miss a beat, and show off every trick in the book An oasis of veggie goodness in the meaty heart of this pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (29-120zł). as they create standout dishes like steamed bass in banana carnivorous city, Green Bar keeps it simple - soup, quiches, GBW leaf and class pad Thai.QC-3, ul. Foksal 16, tel. (+48) 22 light meals and the like - but does so very well indeed, and 826 11 99, www.papaya.waw.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. keeps prices low, ensuring it a steady stream of customers MUU MUU (22-265zł). TBXSW - at lunchtime especially. Just about your only veggie op- AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE 119 This attractive little restaurant on a short street tion this close to the city centre, we say get here while you TEL. (+48) 22 629 39 69 near the Old Town prides itself on using Polish SILK & SPICY can.QB-3, ul. Szpitalna 6, tel. (+48) 602 27 17 50, www. WWW.RESTAURACJAAMIGOS.PL beef from the green pastures of Mazury and top- No expense has been spared on the lush, perfectly de- greenbar.waw.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. class Wagyu beef, reared in the traditional Japa- signed interior and it’s nice to see a little ray of sunshine (12-15zł). UGBS nese way in Argentina, so the cattle probably have along the less salubrious end of ul. Żurawia. Sushi and Thai tango music on their iPods and Borges read to battle it out on the menu, and since we would rather go GREEN PEAS ECO BAR & COFFEE them while receiving massages. The menu is split for Sushi in a small clinically white sushi bar, Thai wins the If the mossy paint colour didn’t tip you off , then the menu into meat, side orders and sauces, allowing you to day! A good tester for any Warsaw Thai venture is Tom Kha at Green Peas Eco Bar & Coff ee will: these folks are seriously construct your own main course. The illustrations Kai; weighing in at a rather hefty 21zł for a bowl of soup, green. The menu was designed with the environment in of cuts and explanation of cooking methods are a we were relieved that this one was pretty tasty despite suf- mind, which can sound boring on paper but is delicious nice touch. There’s also several surf options if you fering from the rather common lack of ‘chilli kick’. Unfortu- on the plate. Their salads are just 15zł and combine impres- THIS PLACE IS NOT decide to steer away from the turf. The wine list nately the average Polish palate still dreads the fi ery fruit, sively fresh greens with homemade dressing, and tofu is a is extensive and red heavy.QB-2, ul. Moliera 8, and restaurants compensate accordingly. Be aware of the word you’ll see often. They have a selection of eco products JUST FOR COWBOYS. tel. (+48) 22 465 15 53, www.muumuu.pl. Open obsession with weekend reservations, even when the place and produce available for purchase as well. Even their cola WE WELCOME Y'ALL! 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (20-200zł). is half empty.QC-4, ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. (+48) 22 629 is organic!QB-3, ul. Szpitalna 5, tel. (+48) 22 826 19 85, 6UGBSW 70 12, www.silkandspicy.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun www.greenpeas.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00. (14-22zł). 12:00 - 23:00. (25-49zł). TVGBSW T6GBSW

54 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 55 Restaurants Cafés AROMA ESPRESSO BAR hensive menu and you can even select from aeropress, Aroma may not be the fi rst name that springs to mind in chemex or drip methods of brewing. Nice, light and the world of coff ee shop chains, but this Israeli based com- healthy food is on off er and early birds can pop in for a We invite you to the best oriental restaurant in Warsaw… pany opened its fi rst café in Jerusalem in 1994 and their selection of breakfasts from 07:00. The weekend themed world class robust coff ee stands head and shoulders above buff et breakfasts are also proving to be a big hit. In the much of the wishy-washy competition. The Warsaw bar is evenings check out the cocktail bar menu; budding cos- a small and simple aff air which also sells a range of cakes, mopolitan alcoholics can sip on Manhattans or, seeing pastries, salads and sandwiches, including some Middle as you are in Warsaw, delve into the ‘Made in Poland’ Eastern variants like savoury burekas or the shakshuka section. Waiting times can be a bit of a drag, but hey, breakfast. All eats are freshly prepared to order, so no plas- you’re a lazy guy, what’s the rush?QB-4, ul. Poznańska tic tubs of wilting greenery or pre-packed sarnies here. 7, tel. (+48) 22 350 77 77, www.leniviec.pl. Open 07:30 Check out their second location in Galeria Mokotów on ul. - 24:00, Fri 07:30 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - Wołoska 12, II fl oor (open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00). 24:00. 6EGSW QC-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 7, tel. (+48) 22 827 02 21, www.aromaespressobar.pl. Open 08:00 - 21:30, NEW Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. GBSW MONIQUE BAKERY & WINE This French style cafe really is underselling itself by say- BLIKLE CAFÉ ing Bakery and Wine. Ok, they do make some great rustic A part of Warsaw folklore. This is where Charles De Gaulle breads, fi ne cakes/pastries and have a small selection of used to come for his doughnuts back in his Warsaw days, nice wines, but they also do great salads, low-fat burgers, and Blikle still sells a variety of desserts and cakes that are tartines, fi lled pancakes, freshly squeezed fruit cocktails famous in their own right. A classy, august venue, with a and are open from 7am for a variety of breakfasts. The ideal menu available until midnight that includes a range of corner location allows them to open up two sides of the breakfasts, lunches, ice creams and a dessert selection that exterior and place a few tables and chairs outside. The staff 16 Foksal Street Reservations +48 (22) 826-11-99 will have you in heaven.QC-3, ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. were attentive, professional and looked great in their crisp 00-372 Warsaw PapayaRestaurant www.papaya.waw.pl (+48) 22 826 64 50, www.blikle.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00. white shirts and blouses. A little Parisian style diamond on TGSW Krucza.QC-4, ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. (+48) 22 629 39 74, www.moniquebakery.pl. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun CAFE PRÓŻNA 08:00 - 23:00. GBSW NEW Making a stir with Warsaw’s intellectuals is Cafe Próżna, TIPPING TRIBULATIONS VEGE MIASTO a cracking cafe set inside a shattered building that looks RELAX CAFE BAR A paradise for Warsaw’s healthy eating, vegetarian, vegan and ready to keel over. You’ll be lucky to fi nd a seat inside this Relax has long been one of our favourite escapes in the Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for for- gluten-free fanatics. The interior is a pretty simple aff air with fi t- narrow venue, even more so if there’s a lecture or reading city centre for fi ne coff ee (including aeropress and French eigners. While in other civilized countries it’s normal to tings made from old wooden crates and palettes. The smallish going on. Decorated with pre-war photographs, Próżna press) and great homemade cakes. Find it in part of the say ‘thanks’ when a waiter collects the money, you’ll space is permanently packed with a variety of customers; hip comes with a pile of well-thumbed history books in the former Relax Cinema building, just behind the main drag be horrifi ed to learn that in Poland uttering the word vege devotees sit alongside business types, local ladies and tour- entrance, tiny tea candles and a basement level to soak up of big stores on ul. Marszalkowska. Check out the com- ‘dziękuje,’ or even ‘thank you’ in English, is an indication ists in search of something beyond a fried pig and a kilo of pota- any overfl ow of customers. The only disappointment here munist era cinema neon sign on the end of the building that you won’t be wanting any change back. This cul- toes fl ock in at all times of the day to gorge themselves on fresh are the smoothies; nowhere near as good as the venue de- which is located around 100m from the café itself. The tural slip-up can get very embarrassing and expensive and tasty produce, beautiful cakes and a great range of drinks; serves. Due to ongoing renovations they open every day lovely staff spend most of their time nattering away to as the waiter/waitress then typically does their best to the watermelon and mint juice was possibly the mightiest hot from 11:30.QB-3, ul. Próżna 12, tel. (+48) 22 620 32 57, customers and enthusiastically pointing out hard to fi nd play the fool and make you feel ashamed for asking day refresher we have ever experienced.QB-2, Al. Solidarności www.cafeprozna.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 10:00 destinations to lost looking tourists on maps of Warsaw. for your money back, or conveniently disappears hav- 60a, tel. (+48) 607 03 11 14, www.vegemiasto.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. 6GSW Recently, they have added a range of 25 regional bottled ing pocketed all of your change. Be careful only to say - 21:00, Mon 12:00 - 18:00. (18-35zł). T6NBSW beers to the menu and be sure to sample the ‘Cider ‘thank you’ if you are happy for the waitstaff to keep all CAFÉ VINCENT Inn’ - Poland’s best home-grown attempt at the fruity the change. Otherwise we advise you to only use the This place is a great French bakery and coff ee shop do- elixir.QB-3/4, ul. Złota 8a (Pasaż Wiecha), tel. (+48) word ‘proszę’ (please) when handing back the bill and VIETNAMESE ing a huge range of authentic pastries and bread. This is 22 827 35 65, www.relaxcafe.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00, the payment. NEW rather unfortunate as the large queue and tiny shop space Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:30 - 22:00. 6GBSW Despite the fact that most waitstaff in PL are only paid VIETNAMESE RESTAURANT FOUR SEASONS move quickly while you dither, and you also risk being in pennies and leftovers, it is not customary to tip more Four Seasons is a well designed and attractive restaurant smacked by a baguette if you turn around too quickly, but than 10% of the meal’s total (though being a foreigner space featuring coloured woods and lime green paintwork it’s worth it as a coff ee and croissant will set you back less TO LUBIĘ highlighted by the soft glow of green neon and the tables than 20zl. Also at ul. Jana Pawła II 82 (D-1, Arkadia) and ul. Divine. Coff ee, cakes, pies, breakfast, coff ee and apple or may make the staff expectant of a bit more generos- Q ity). As such, we encourage you to reward good service are professionally laid out. The overall eff ect looks pretty Chmielna 21. C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. (+48) 22 828 plum crumble at 12zł a slice (not necessarily in that or- impressive, so one would expect the pan-asian cuisine 01 15. Open 06:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 01:00. der). Opposite the church on a street that is best known when you feel it’s deserved. Finally, it is virtually un- 6UGBSW heard of to leave the tip on your card, because waitstaff compete with the surroundings. Our dishes were reason- as being tourist-trap central, this is the kind of place you are then forced to pay tax on the gratuity; you won’t able, but they do seem to err on the side of caution when it can get all twee and generally Krakow for a moment. get the chance. Therefore it’s essential to have some comes to seasonings and spices. A good choice for a quick LENIVIEC Old/New Town should be full of places like is. ‘I like this’ is lunch, off ering a choice of four diff erent daily options.QB-4, The name roughly translates as ‘Lazy Guy’ and Leniviec what the name means and we do.QB-1, ul. Freta 10, tel. change or small bills handy in order to leave your server a tip. If you don’t have any, ask for change. ul. Hoża 27a, tel. (+48) 22 400 27 32, www.hoza4seasons. really is one of the better trendy cafes for just collapsing (+48) 22 635 90 23, www.tolubie.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00. pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (17-60zł). T6BSW in a heap, drinking some fi ne coff ee from the compre- 6GBSW

56 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 57 Nightlife Nightlife BARS & PUBS Warsaw has a thriving bar scene, and hitting up one of the many venues listed here oﬀ ers the chance to sample Po- land’s national beverage - vodka - long with plenty of local beers. You’ll be oﬀ ered beer either in 0.3 or 0.5 litre sizes, and prices depend greatly on how swank your establishment; expect to pay 7-10zł for a large beer for the most part.

BEIRUT HUMMUS & MUSIC BAR Our favorite new addition to Warsaw’s bar scene, Beirut is pure atmosphere - the bar itself is made with sandbags, after all - and oﬀ ers traditional Lebanese snacks like olive Modern urban cocktail bar oil-soaked hummus and falafel to pair with your beer. While with a full range of spirits, the weather is nice the front is open to the street, letting passersby marvel at the sound system and the unique hair- exotic drinks and cocktails from styles of the hip staﬀ .QB-4, ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00 around the world. - 01:00. UGBW

CAFE KULTURALNA Cafe, bar and club, Cafe Kulturalna is an amazing space, and unmissable if you appreciate a venue with character. Deco- rated with vinyl armchairs, artwork and tasteless 50s chandeliers this is a magnet for the student intelligentsia. DJs, ﬁ lm screenings, readings and assorted artsy tosh regularly held. Find it in the Palace of Culture on the Marszałkowska side of the building next to the theatre in the south-east corner.QB-4, Pl. Defi lad 1, tel. (+48) 22 656 62 81, www. kulturalna.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. Piwiww PaP w UEGW

The explosion of bars and clubs in Warsaw over the last LOCAL COCTAIL BAR MAX few years means that you are never far from a fresh beer Warsaw’s biggest multi-tap bar Piw Paw attracts a true We also question the spelling, but otherwise Max’s concept or decent nightspot. On the other hand, it’s still easy to fi nd mix of punters, all of whom are attracted by the selec- is fi endishly simple, colourful and fun. Step up to the expert yourself stranded outside the bolted doors of a suppos- tion of hand-crafted Polish and European beers. Across bar staff , give them a rundown on your favourite tipples, Sophisticated sushi edly popular club on a Wednesday night, or staring into the the river, OSP Saska Kępa is a neat little bar and an ami- fruits and taste sensations and - HEY PRESTO - they concoct and tasty thai cuisine. bottom of a pint glass in a deserted bar. Local knowledge, able local experience with the addition of classy Polish a magical potion especially for you! Weird and wonderful trends and the Superman-like ability to scoot across town beers. fruits and glamorous bottles of booze are imported from in a fl ash (“Taxi!”) are prerequisites to achieving a success- around the globe. The main bar area is a bright and airy ful night out. But that’s why you have us. The new money CHEAP aff air with bleached wood and multi-coloured seating. crowd have certainly found a home amongst the posh eat- It has to be The Pavilions, a ramshackle collection of dive Tucked away at the back of the bar you will fi nd the dark eries and glamorous nightclubs around Pl. Piłsudskiego bars in the courtyard behind Nowy Swiat that off ers War- and mysterious specialist whisky and cigar area. Over 500 (B-3) and Pl. Teatralny (B-2); keep in mind, however, that saw drinking in its rawest form. bottles of the ‘water of life’ stand like museum exhibits in clubs in this area have such strict door policies that it may dimly lit glass cases. Stare in awe at the 32-year-old Port El- be easier to get out of a mobile phone contract than get in COUPLES len, yours for only 550zł a shot!QC-4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. for a drink and a boogie. Warsaw’s young arty crowd pre- The pricey custom cocktails at The Pictures are made (+48) 691 71 00 00, www.barmax.pl. Open 11:00 - 05:00. fer the down-at-heel clubs and bars that have popped up with the precision of an atomic scientist; it may not UBXW in the districts across the river: Stara Praga (G/H-1) and sound romantic...but it is! Judging by the numerous the fashionable and increasingly gentrifi ed Saska Kępa sexy couples seated at the bar, Coctail Bar Max hits the HAKA BAR (H-2/3). right note with their ‘tell us what flavours, alcohols and Haka proves that size isn’t everything and the raw brick- fruits you like and we’ll mix a drink specifically for you’ work and industrial look doesn’t have to be in a building Opening hours listed here should only be treated as rough concept. with the dimensions of a zeppelin factory. Run by every approximation; in practise many bars and clubs will stay Warsaw expats’ favourite Irishman, Kevin Bradley, and his ul. Świętokrzyska 36 open well beyond the call of duty if the need arises, but by SPLURGE business partner Kasia Chelpinska, this 30m2 bar is a great Tel. (+48) 535 33 31 23 the same benchmark will happily bolt the doors if business Panorama Bar’s cocktails are worth the dip into your wal- place to mingle with locals and foreigners, chill out with www.patera.com.pl is slow. Below are a few rapid-fi re suggestions for those let, as are the views from the 40th fl oor. If you’re dressed to a glass of fi ne wine and attack the stunningly innovative who need an instant plan; the less desperate should spend impress hit up Platinum Club for the chance to drink like a menu with gusto. In order to get a feel for the ever chang- /PATERAbar a bit more time scrutinising our in-depth reviews section. champagne-swilling Russian oligarch. ing international and modern culinary visions of Kiwi chef

58 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 59 Nightlife Nightlife and a collection of seats that appear to have been res- KUFLE I KAPSLE JAZZ cued from the rubbish. But while it looks scruff y this has Hot on the heels of the original Warsaw real ale bar ‘Cuda emerged as one of the best places in town, with off -beat na Kiju’ comes this beer drinker’s paradise. The name performances enjoyed by a crowd that doesn’t get out of ‘Kufl e i Kapsle’ means ‘Beer Mugs and Bottlecaps’ and the METRO JAZZ BAR & BISTRO Q Bathed in a soothing forest green glow this is a bed till way after noon. ul. 11 Listopada 22 (Praga), tel. interior is a perfect blend of European traditional bar de- classic jazz bar where aesthetic shortcomings are (+48) 502 07 09 16, www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl. Open sign mingling with Polish features, such as the large tiled Fri, Sat only 20:00 - 05:00 and during events. UE heater in the back room. Twelve taps are on off er and the brushed over with a pot of atmosphere. Take to BXW one of the swivelly barside stools to knock back bottled beer selection has more variety than a Glaswegian the barman’s creations while taking in nightly glass recycling bin! An interesting selection of bar snacks jazz performances that fluctuate hugely in both JEDNA TRZECIA - BEER BAR are also available; biltong, prunes wrapped in bacon and style and volume.QF-3, ul. Marszałkowska 99a The varnished chipboard furnishings and raw cement walls warm French pastry with savoury toppings. Keen to spread (Metropol Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 325 31 06, www. may all appear a little ‘last year’, but it’s still a nice enough, the gospel, the owners are also responsible for the Warsaw hotelmetropol.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. minimal look. Of course, what’s really important is the con- beer trail map, just ask at the bar. In contrast to many other UEGW tents of the fridges and kegs; stare longingly at the doz- local bars, expect it to be packed and buzzing from around ens of artisan Belgian beers, lined up like little soldiers in 17:00. We love it!QB/C-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 25, tel. (+48) the refrigerators, or go for one of the eight beers on tap, 22 127 72 18. Open 14:00 - 02:00, Fri 14:00 - 04:00, Sat PIĘKNA BISTRO GBW Piękna Bistro is everything you don’t expect of a including our much loved Grimbergen beer from Flanders. 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. jazz bar, with a smart set of customers inside an The owners are also constantly Chouff e-ling around looking for new and interesting brews, so drop by and let them MOMU GASTROBAR attractive interior that recently enjoyed a mod- Q ernising.The live performances are consistently help bring out the Duvel in you! C-4, ul. Wilcza 50/52, It’s been years since adding the word Gastrobar to the name tel. (+48) 605 45 95 88. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun of an eatery created such excitement, but this is Warsaw! As excellent, and better still, never loud enough to GBW completely sink conversation. We’ve heard it’s 14:00 - 02:00. well as a comprehensive range of drinks and cocktails, Momu converting to a sushi establishment. Will the jazz serves up large portions of salads, snacks and hot plates with stay? We’re not sure, but be warned that upheaval KLUBOKAWIARNIA TOWARZYSKA assorted seafood delicacies. Choose from a sizzling shrimp appears imminent.QG-4, ul. Piękna 20, tel. (+48) Cool café/club across the river in Saska Kępa. Housed in plate or marinated cod all served with stuff ed baked pota- 22 627 41 51, www.jazzzone.pl. Open 11:00 a row of 1950’s shop fronts, the owners have managed toes. The slightly austere white brick interiors are compen- - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. to modernise the interior while remaining sympathetic sated for by the colourful pallet of the dishes on off er . The UEGBW to the history of the building. On the ground level you’ll staff are casual, quick and eager to make your visit a memo- fi nd the white tiled bar serving up a variety of drinks, rable one. QB-2, ul. Wierzbowa 11 (entrance from Pl. Teat- cakes, light dishes and a selection of trendy European ralny), tel. (+48) 506 10 00 01, www.momu.pl. Open 11:00 Shane Baker, try out the mix and match sharing platters. magazines, including Wire and Wallpaper (the design - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. UEBXW Keeping all the punters happy the daily lunch menu regu- magazine for those who don’t like reading!). Downstairs larly features meat, fi sh and vegetarian options. Consider- the small events room is home to exhibitions, readings, OSP SASKA KĘPA ing the quality on off er, prices are exceptionally reasonable cult fi lm screenings (shown in their original languages) Sharing none of the pretence of nearby ul. Francuska, this and the revamped interior is modern and stylish.QC-4, ul. and live music; we still squirm with embarrassment great café, social club and fi re station (crazy, but true!) is by Bracka 20, tel. (+48) 22 114 86 97. Open 12:00 - 24:00, when recalling seeing a Finnish electro-pop geezer far one of the jolliest places in Saska. OSP attracts a variety Mon 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - acting like a lethargic robot and gyrating his groin just of customers; off duty fi remen, locals, arty types and a very 22:00. GBW inches away from our faces. Expect bands to have names happy little Jack Russell terrier. Tasty, cheap home cooked like ‘Root Canal Treatment’…we’re not kidding!QH-3, food and a good range of diffi cult to fi nd beers are on off er HARD ROCK CAFE ul. Zwycięzców 49, tel. (+48) 22 270 21 79, www. - - think 25 regional brews from around Poland and Czech Sure you don’t need to see Freddie Mercury’s red leather klubokawiarnia.net. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 Republic. Regular music/fi lm nights and an eco-market on pants to enjoy a night out, but it certainly doesn’t hurt. - 04:00. UEGBW Sundays (10:00-16:00) add to the appeal, and don’t forget The Hard Rock Cafe’s large downstairs bar area is jumping to try on the collection of fi remen’s helmets and hats after at night even when live rock shows aren’t on the agenda. KRAKEN RUM BAR a few beers. In August the bar is closed on Mondays.Qul. The endless bar mixes up a long list of colourful cocktails The fi rst thing that hits you upon entering this little sea- Walecznych 74 (Saska Kępa), tel. (+48) 603 10 38 88. for a heavily ex-pat crowd taking in paraphernalia like a food joint is the great smell which immediately makes Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. UEGBW well-worn Bee Gees guitar and a black leather outfi t that you think of harbourside cafes and holidays to the seaside formerly clung to Madonna’s early 90s frame. When music with your bucket and spade. The interior is reminiscent of PANORAMA BAR & LOUNGE is on tap the crowd becomes more varied (and youthful) a fi sherman’s shed; fi sh-box wood, sun bleached driftwood Warsaw’s highest bar - and indeed Poland’s - sits on the but just as devoted to the strum of a Fender.QB-4, ul. tables and chairs and a selection of old maritime imagery. 40th fl oor of the Marriott with prices to match the top tier Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www. The seafood is simply presented, very tasty and well priced. location and a new VIP room to boot. The views of Warsaw hardrockcafe.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00. UGBW Also, try the Kraken rum which is made especially for the glimmering below are outstanding, and they’re no longer bar by the brewers at Artezan - Poland’s smallest brewery. the only reason to visit. Gone is the JR Ewing glitz and HYDROZAGADKA The staff are a tattooed, trendy bunch, but rather than be- chrome, replaced instead by a tasteful interior consisting You will not fi nd a more unkempt bar than Hydrozagadka; ing press-ganged and forced to set sail for the Greenland of fl ock print wallpaper, violet seating and clever lighting. this place looks like it’s been ransacked by students, and fi sheries, we suspect they’ve just dropped out of uni and There’s no better place for Sleepless In Seattle seduction, or it’s almost advisable to check yourself for fl eas when leav- possibly taken a pedalo for a spin on a boating pond.QB- a corporate chinwag.QB-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Mar- ing. Decorations aren’t so much limited as virtually non- 4, ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - riott Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 630 74 35, www.panoramabar. existent, and you won’t fi nd much more than brick walls 02:00. UGBW pl. Open 18:00 - 02:00. UXW

60 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 61 Nightlife Nightlife PARDON, TO TU business plan. Besides bragging rights, we can’t really There are places that try to be cool, and then there are see the reason behind the massive selection, or the fact WINE BARS places that just are. Pardon To Tu falls comfortably into that the venue only has around a dozen tables and, even the latter. A music club for people who actually know more scarily, only two toilets! In fairness, a large amount BRISTOL WINE BAR and love music (not loud bass and lasers). Disinterested of trade comes from the off -license side of things - even The dark wood furnishings and brass/chrome fi ttings (re:cool) DJs play whatever they want for the low-key the tap beers can be poured into containers and taken contrast beautifully with the subdued colour scheme of crowd of hipsters and their dogs hanging out beneath with you. The meticulous queuing system at the bar also the paintwork and there’s enough marble around to give vinyl records that you can buy off the walls. They’ve got detracts from it having a real pub atmosphere. What- Michelangelo a seizure. The stunning old and new world good, cheap Italian food to curb the munchies and in ever the down-sides, one cannot deny their passion for wine list is personally selected by local wine hero Robert Q Mielżyński and, considering the opulent surroundings, summer the space out front becomes a sprawling beer real beer. B-4, ul. Żurawia 32/34 (entrance from ul. Q garden. Host to frequent concerts and fi lm screenings, Parkingowa), tel. (+48) 534 73 45 00, www.piwpaw.pl. wines by the glass start from a very reasonable 18zl. C-2, this is a veritable cultural centre and a great place to make Open 24hrs. GW ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol War- Q saw), tel. (+48) 22 551 18 58, www.hotelbristolwarsaw. new friends. A-3, Pl. Grzybowski 12/14/16, tel. (+48) UEGBW 513 19 16 41, www.pardontotu.pl. Open 10:00 - 02:00. NEW pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00. UEGBW PLAC BARCELONA The string of bars and eateries along Plac Trzech Krzyży NEW PARKING BAR have been held in high regard by the lovely young WEJMAN WINEBAR Eff ortlessly cool dive bar on the ground fl oor of the big- things of Warsaw for as long as we can remember but Hooray! At long last, a simple and unstuff y wine bar in gest hi-rise car park in town (the exterior of which is deco- Plac Barcelona takes things to a new level. This rela- the heart of town; small, intimate and the ideal place to rated with, supposedly, the biggest mural in Europe). The tively small cocktail and tapas bar is a design dream; just take a seat and chat about wine with the knowl- fl oor is the original car park fl oor marked with parking fitted out in cool white, pastel neon, soft white furnish- edgeable and attentive guys behind the bar. Working in spaces, crossings etc. Concrete pillars, oil drums and a ings, plate glass and intimate spaces to lounge around close collaboration with one of Poland’s top importers row of surprisingly comfortable swing seats made from in, it’s fair to say it wouldn’t look out of place in the of French wines the extensive selection may be biased tyres make up the raw and spacious interior. A minimal coolest districts of.eh..Barcelona! Friendly staff, expert towards France but you’ll also fi nd a number of man- amount of coloured neon lighting adds the only touch cocktail professors, weekend spin-meisters and high agement rated wines from other countries. A ‘wine of of warmth to this concrete jungle. No food or snacks, end alcohols make for a glamorous night out.QC-4, the day’ off er, cold platters and very reasonable prices make this one of those places where once you have sat slightly shell-shocked but nice staff and when we visited Pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, tel. (+48) 501 98 87 68, www. Q they were almost out of beer - although the two function- placbarcelona.com. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 down you won’t want to leave. B-4, ul. Zgoda 4, tel. UEBW (+48) 661 66 11 50, www.wejmanwinebar.pl. Open ing taps were better than the usual gut-rot. Don’t let any - 02:00. 6GBW of that put you off , it really is strangely brilliant!QB-4, ul. 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. Nowogrodzka 27 (entrance from ul. Parkingowa), tel. (+48) 537 60 68 97, www.parkingbar.eu. Open 16:00 - WINE BAR MIELŻYŃSKI 02:00, Fri 16:00 - 05:00, Sat 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. Some claim this to be Warsaw’s best wine bar, and they UEGBW might well be onto something. Expert service guarantees to identify the wine that suits you, and the selec- PIES CZY SUKA/PURE BAR tion is utterly exhaustive. An absorbing venue, with a decent menu of light bites to compliment the drinking. Pies Czy Suka (“Dog or Bitch”) is a high-end design bou- Q tique that opened a craft cocktail bar with stunning re- D-1, ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. (+48) 22 636 87 09, www.mielzynski.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - sults. The space itself is what you’d expect when design UGW folk are in charge: touchscreen menus and lots and lots of 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. white. Yet the imaginative drinks are they main focus, and though they don’t arrive quickly, but they do come with a WINESTONE free show; creating molecular foam and juicing fi gs takes The latest concept restaurant project, located within some elbow grease, and conversations are punctuated by the city centre Mercure Hotel. Winestone takes its name the loud, rhythmic thwack of ice against the cocktail shaker. from the fact that it stocks a great selection of fi ne The recipes require the kind of precision normally reserved wines and also serves food on very fashionable French for brain surgery, and unexpected ingredients like dry ice stone tablets, otherwise known as ‘Les Planches.’ The and cranberry caviar can often mean your “drink” requires a calming and unfussy design features an unusual violet spoon. Expensive, but worth every zloty - try the Gin Basil and black colour scheme, large wooden tables and a Smash or Tequila Rucola Smash.QB-3, ul. Szpitalna 8A, hefty bar. Everyone can feel like a budding Oz Clarke tel. (+48) 501 85 01 14, www.piesczysuka.com. Open with the rather helpfully laid out wine list which is split 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. GBW into four easy to decipher categories - fresh and tasty, light and fruity, balanced and elegant, full and aromat- PIW PAW ic. A newly expanded shop inside the restaurant sells wine, bread, olives and a variety of foods so you can try 57 tap beers and a wall of refrigerators stuff ed to burst- Q ing with bottled beers (over 200 kinds of bottled beer eg. and recreate your experience at home. A-4, ul. Złota 48/54, tel. (+48) 22 697 37 55, www.mercure.com. Polish, English, Russian, Belgian, Czech etc.) may sound UGW like you’ve died and gone to heaven, but somewhere Open 10:00 - 24:00. along the line they must have come up with a pretty odd

62 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 63 Nightlife PLAN B SOMEPLACE ELSE Walk up a curving stairwell to enter Plan B, a venue where Someplace Else is an expat legend, and the comfortable the ceilings are high and the windows are low - so low open-plan space and industrial bar are a great setting for you’ll have to crouch for views of pl. Zbawiciela. Plan B has the mix of live sports and music that can be found here al- seen minimal investment, with a design that must have most every night of the week. Still boasting one of the best set the owner back the price of a packet of sausages; de- bar menus in the city - we’re fans of the SPE Quesadillas - it’s cor is limited to little more than tatty posters, black tiles easy to come for dinner and stay into the night to sample and sofas with springs practically sticking out of them. from the long list of extravagant cocktails.QC-4, ul. Prusa 2 But this place has become astonishingly popular, especially (Sheraton Warsaw Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www. with students and other sorts who look like they’ve just warszawa.someplace-else.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. From fi nished band practice. Don’t be surprised to fi nd the party September open 12:00 - 01:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun spilling outside, with gangs of drinkers chucking frisbees 12:00 - 24:00. UEGBW and sharing sneaky puff s on Moroccan cigarettes. Drunk- enness is rife and encouraged, and it’s only fair to note this NEW place has become a bit of a magnet for expat lads looking SYRENI ŚPIEW to tap up impressionable Polish girls.QF-4, Al. Wyzwolenia This stylish lounge bar and club is the perfect spot to 18, tel. (+48) 503 11 61 54, www.planbe.pl. Open 11:00 - sip away a day or party the weekend away. Located in 03:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 - 03:00. BXW a centrally located park the modernist bar blends into the luscious landscape and provides a perfect terrace PO DRUGIEJ STRONIE LUSTRA to lounge around on. Slide inside and let them ply you This unique Praga bar used to be much like the district itself: with upscale cocktails and top shelf whiskies while you artsy, mysterious and a little bit junky. But after recently mov- schmooze to some smooth tunes. While it’s a low key ing locations, the bar has left behind the thick layers of grime high class chill during the week, on the weekends the and history at their former Ząbkowska location and simply vibe goes sublime with carefully curated live music and brought their strongest suit - an endless collection of bottled DJs that keep the parties going all night long. And to and draught craft beers - along with them to ul. Jagiellońska. give you an off day, they’re closed on Sundays. Having Sure, it feels a little weird to not stick to the tables and to use a just opened a few years ago, this melodious mermaid toilet that has an actual seat attached, but we’re happy to ex- has already made a serious splash.QG-3, ul. Szara 10a, change that “charm” for a more grown up (and cleaner!) head- tel. (+48) 602 77 32 93, www.syrenispiew.pl. Open quarters.QH-1, ul. Jagiellońska 22, tel. (+48) 534 73 40 99, 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 05:30. Closed Mon, Sun. www.po2stronielustra.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. XW BXW

POLONEZ KLUBOKAWIARNIA THE PICTURES ART BAR CAFE Named after the cult Polish tank of a car, the Polonez-man- Modern, slick and central, The Pictures lives up to its name ufactured at the FSO plant in Warsaw from 1978-2002, this with high-quality original art and photographs (no repro- cool, retro and bric-a-brac styled bar has breathed new life ductions here) on the walls. While particularly pleasant into the less popular end of ul. Poznańska. Behind the bar during its day guise as a quiet cafe and bargain lunch spot, you’ll fi nd a fi ne range of Polish specialist beers and a vari- in the evening this place is packed with hipsters drawn to ety of nalewki (spirit-based liqueurs, previously the tipple of the smart service, crafty cocktail list, and simple but tasty choice for the older generation). Even though it’s regularly and aff ordable food. Some places deserve to be trendy, packed to bursting, the wonderfully laid-back customers and this is one of them.QB-4, ul. Chmielna 26, tel. (+48) check out our and atmosphere don’t turn it all into a traumatic push- 22 826 17 83, www.thepicturesbar.com. Open 12:00 and-shove experience, and whoever controls the music - 01:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. machine is an open-minded genius.QB-4, ul. Poznańska GBW cocktail bar! 24, tel. (+48) 604 94 21 69. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Thu 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. EGBW WARSAW TORTILLA FACTORY This long-established Tex-Mex bar is one of the go-to SKWER - FILIA CENTRUM ARTYSTYCZNEGO hangouts for ex-pats, thanks in part to the Irish owner FABRYKA TRZCINY Niall, though discerning the various accents becomes An off shoot of Fabryka Trzciny, though a darn sight easier harder with every margarita and Corona that goes miss- to get to than its daddy bar/club. Situated inside a weird ing. Once you’re inside there’s something for everyone: concrete bungle this construction looks more like a car park Sky Sports on the TV, live music on weekends, and a than bar, but don’t let that stop you from further investiga- decent pint of Murphy’s or Guinness. The global crowd tions. Concerts are frequent, and frequently excellent, as is easy to mix with and accepting of outsiders, espe- are the book signings and vernissages. The location splat cially when they buy the tequila shots. Added bonus: in the middle of Krakowskie Przedmieście means there’s the separate smoking room will save you a trip outside. no shortage of lookers to train your eyes on.QB-2, ul. Kra- QF-3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel. (+48) 22 621 86 22, www. kowskie Przedmieście 60a, tel. (+48) 508 36 58 49, www. warsawtortillafactory.pl. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat fabrykatrzciny.pl. Open 12:00 - 01:00. UEGBW 12:00 - 04:00. EBXW

64 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com Nightlife Nightlife WARSZAWA POWIŚLE Set in a former ticket hall this PRL-era concrete rotunda CLUBS proved one of the recent summer hits, and a bit of a Clubs in Warsaw range from sedate to sinful, and we cover gathering ground for those enjoying post-Luztro fix- the full gamut here. A night spent clubbing means you’ll SUMMER IS CALLING me-ups. Interiors here are all cheap and chipboard - most likely greet the dawn because, unlike the closing tables included - and while it looks tatty and torn it’s times you might be used to, Polish clubs stay open until the AT NEW ORLEANS become a HQ of sorts for hardcore clubbers hiding sun comes up. Expect a cover charge at most venues that their horror behind reflective specs (which explains can range from 5-20zl depending on events, and note that why the neighbours want it shut down). How to find toilet paper is often a luxury that seems to universally run it? Walk down the platform on Powiśle Station, then out around 22:00. hang a right down the stairs. An extra incentive to SPECIALS SHOWS visit: they just underwent a huge renovation and have CLUB MIRAGE OPEN BAR - 150pln DAYS A WEEK an expanded food menu (polish dishes & street food). A totally unique experience, this is a club like no other OPEN 7 QG-2, ul. Kruczkowskiego 3b, tel. (+48) 22 474 40 in Warsaw. Not because it’s anything particularly special, 84, www.grupawarszawa.com. Open 09:00 - 02:00, but because it is set in the bowels of the monstrous Pal- Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. ace of Culture. Descend the stairs through the entrance KEEP UGBW CALM facing the central railway station into a mass of writh- AND ing young bodies getting down around the centrepiece DRINK W OPARACH ABSURDU fountain. Once you’re done there, retreat to the long bar VODKA This bar could have a weird-off with fellow Praga bar and lounge area to relax before heading back out into the SHOW US CALM SUNDAYS Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra that would easily end in a surprisingly unpretentious party crowd. The coat check YOUR KEY - TWO BOTTLES draw. Both favour twinkle lights, flea market knick- looked after by moustachioed men in their 50s gives a - FREE ENTRY FOR THE PRICE OF ONE knacks and crap furniture, though Absurdu has em- small hint of the days when this place must have been braced colour, and bright murals, to set it apart. frequented by the great and not so good of communist Absurdu is spread over numerous rickety levels and Poland.QB-4, Pl. Defi lad 1 (entrance from ul. Emilii populated by local bohemians who crave live music Plater), tel. (+48) 22 620 14 54, www.clubmirage.pl. more info: [email protected], phone: + 48 600 063 667 and strong drinks. A small menu of snacks and Pol- Open 21:00 - 05:00, Wed, Thu 21:00 - 02:00. Closed www.neworleans.pl, Warsaw, Zgoda 11 ish staples (yep, pierogis) are available to line your Mon, Tue, Sun. EX stomach.QH-1, ul. Ząbkowska 6, tel. (+48) 660 78 03 19, www.oparyabsurdu.pl. Open 12:00 - 03:00. ENKLAWA UEXW It may be quiet by day, but Mazowiecka is home to a num- PLATINIUM CLUB ROOM 13 CLUB & LOUNGE ber of the city’s top night spots and high up the list comes Status is everything in Warsaw, and you’ll be awarded plenty Warsaw has had the benefi t of a club explosion (clubsplo- ZNAJOMI ZNAJOMYCH Enklawa. Keeping their fi ngers on the pulse of current club of it if you can wheedle past the gatekeepers at Platinium. sion?) lately, and after visiting venue upon venue Room 13 With two levels and a strange arrangement of rooms trends, live music and fashion events it attracts a pretty Door policy is stringent here, mercilessly culling the beasts is the one that stands out. The interior has a striking fallen newcomer Zna Zna can feel as if you’re wandering classy and sassy weekend crowd. If you can’t wait for Friday from the beautiful, thus ensuring everyone inside is either angel theme, with pillowy clouds painted across the ceil- through an M.C. Escher drawing. Here’s a primer: the fi rst to come around, hit their truly legendary Old School Night rich or beautiful - sometimes both. Regarded as Warsaw’s fi n- ings in the multiple rooms, and giant images of what Vic- fl oor features a large smoking room and several adjacent (70’s-80’s music) on Wednesdays. Enklawa’s popularity est club this place, set inside a historic former bank, has seen toria’s Secret has taught us an ‘angel’ looks like. And if your rooms with seating, and the main fl oor has a bar with DJ/ means that invites, passwords or being able to prove that plenty of money spent, with a design that includes marble idea of heaven is two bars, a VIP room, a wide array of music dance fl oor - we saw a keytar being played - and more you are the lead singer of M People may be required to get columns, chandeliers and glowing fl oors. This is champagne and lots of high heels, then consider this your HQ.QB-3, ul. labyrinthine seating areas. The pile of taxis outside should past the lads on the door.QB-3, ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. living Warsaw-style, meaning hot sounds from the DJ decks Mazowiecka 13, tel. (+48) 22 827 60 44, www.room13. tell you this is currently one of Warsaw’s favourite places, (+48) 22 827 31 51, www.enklawa.com. Open 22:00 - and a riotous party that goes way, way late.QB-2, ul. Fredry pl. Open 22:13 - 06:00. Closed Tue. GW with huddles of hipsters and interpretive dancers sharing 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. X 6, tel. (+48) 694 41 34 39, www.platiniumclub.pl. Open space and spilling drinks together. There’s even a respect- Thu, Fri, Sat only: 21:00 - 06:00. UEXW able menu of pasta and pizza that’s available into the OPERA SEASONAL PLACES weekend wee hours (weekdays 24:00, Fri and Sat 01:00, A no-expense spared design masterpiece found in the NEW BARKA Sun 24:00) to soak up the booze, and a movie room for basement of the National Opera. Descend the curving THE CLASH RESTAURANT AND CLUB Brainwave for the heatwave from the alternative guys responsi- weekly Wednesday night (20:00) screenings. Recom- stairwell and all you’ll see is boys with attitude, dressed in Our initial disappointment upon discovering this is not in ble for the Plac Zbawiciela mayhem of Plan B, and the city centre mended.QC-4, ul. Wilcza 58a, tel. (+48) 22 628 20 61, popped collared polo shirts, and a heart-stopping spread fact a locale dedicated to the memory of Strummer and his avant-garde Powiększenie Club. Barka is basically a fl at topped www.znajomiznajomych.waw.pl. Open 12:00 - 01:00, of gazelle-like girls. If you were wondering where the purveyors of Punk soon vanished after we realised it was in barge, pimped up to look modern and cool by the designers at Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 16:00 - 04:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. good lookers went, you’ve found the answer. Tread down fact an arty, multi roomed venue featuring an open kitchen Project Praga. Once you’ve navigated the narrow gangways and UBXW wood boards and through vaulted tunnels to reach the serving an intriguing and regularly changing fusion menu, the security blokes you’ll fi nd a bar, concert and dance area. A main arena, checking out the numerous side rooms on a well-stocked bar, original artworks, craftsman made fi x- whole series of gigs and guest DJ’s will be appearing throughout the way; this place was formerly known as Bedroom, and tures and fi ttings and a steady programme of various cul- the summer and the venue is regularly mobbed with partygo- that’s because of the alcoves found shooting off in every tural and musical events. The name was chosen in order to ers. In fact it gets so busy that many visitors prefer to just make Where‘s the party? direction. Each comes decorated with poufs, loungers emphasise the coming together of all art forms and cre- use of the riverbank area in front of the moored barge to chat and Persian drapes, and serve as a great spot to enjoy il- ative ideas. From Thursday-Saturday, navigate the selection and listen to the music coming from onboard. Our sympathies facebook.com/ licit activities.QB-2, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. (+48) 22 828 70 process and pop downstairs to the sparse but stylish little go out to you if you need to make use of the portaloos (Toi-toi WarsawInYourPocket 75, www.operaclub.pl. Open Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 06:00. night club.QC-3, ul. Foksal 18, tel. (+48) 660 69 05 60, in Polish).QG-2, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 31/33. Open EBXW www.theclash.pl. GBW 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. EXW

66 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 67 Adult Entertainment Adult Entertainment Those who visited Warsaw in the nineties and around the COYOTE BAR & NIGHT CLUB turn of the century may have lingering memories of a On the new Street of Sin that is ul. Mazowiecka, Coyote seriously mucky city. With an estimated 1,500 brothels in Club is an adult entertainment establishment of the ‘girls in operation the city established a reputation as a destination their underwear which leaves little to the imagination will for hairy-palmed perverts. Then along came the late Lech dance for you’ variety. Drinks (the beers at least) are not as Kaczynski as Mayor of Warsaw who became a one man outrageously priced as in other similar places and we have anti-sleaze machine driven by a zealous desire to restore to say that the girls we bumped into when we popped in Warsaw’s lost innocence. While he never fully succeeded in for a quick one were sirens.QB-3, ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, cleansing Warsaw of the brothels and the ﬂ yers, Kaczynski’s tel. (+48) 505 46 90 56, www.coyotenightclub.pl. Open crusade had a striking impact. 20:00 - 04:00, Sun 20:00 - 03:00. UXW

One of the results of this campaign is that Warsaw now of- KOKOMO fers a collection of seemingly legitimate and, on the whole, One of the most central strip bars in Warsaw, though don’t fairly presentable ‘Gentlemen’s Clubs’. Brothels still exist but let that stop you taking advantage of the Kokomo limo ser- not in the huge numbers that they once did. Although vice. From there on in it’s your eyes that will be doing all the there is no specifi c red light district you’ll fi nd a small con- work as they pinball around their sockets focusing on the centration of brothels around al. Jerozolimskie, ul. Wilcza troupe of pin-up bunnies. Two rooms to choose from, as and ul. Nowogrodzka. They’re simple enough to fi nd, just well as a well-stocked drink bar serving all the concoctions look for the fl yers pinned to car windscreens or clogging up necessary to complete your preview of heaven.QB-4, Al. LEGENDARY the gutters. Don’t expect English to be spoken, and don’t Jerozolimskie 53 (entrance from ul.Pankiewicza 4), tel. NIGHT CLUB reckon on being greeted by the sirens pictured on the (+48) 22 356 20 16, www.kokomo.com.pl. Open 21:00 IN WARSAW! aforementioned fl yers. - 04:00. G

Now, in the old days we’d use this space to fire some NEW ORLEANS GENTLEMEN’S CLUB recommendations your way. Legal factors now make From Sunday to Wednesday you’ll fi nd the girls kitted out that a foolhardy path to pursue, so instead we advise in evening dress, with a higher-class of punter choosing prospective punters to visit the Polish forums on www. the girl of his dreams before sitting down to a good, intel- internationalsexguide.com, where the message boards ligent natter. Of course, this being a strip club, the removal 2QHRIWKHPRVW are alive with the latest dispatches from the frontline, of the aforementioned evening dress is also an available VRSKLVWLFDWHGSODFHVLQWKH as well as pics and maps from the more committed option. At weekends you’ll fi nd New Orleans reverting to KHDUWRI:DUVDZ posters. For independent girls check websites such as the more standard formula, with girls tottering around in www.odloty.pl and www.sexatlas.pl, where you’ll find next to nothing, and off ering the usual hip-grinding ac- a choice of literally hundreds upon hundreds of feisty tion. Now added, a ‘night restaurant’ with an ‘erotic’ menu (LJKW\VHQVXDOGDQFHUV Polish girls promising a lively time. Your third choice is featuring oysters, lobster and Argie steak. If they fl ow runs ZLOOLQWURGXFH\RXWRRXU to simply put your faith in a taxi driver. More often than low just saunter akwardly over to their in house ATM ma- not this will involve being driven to the suburbs and to chine.QB-3, ul. Zgoda 11, tel. (+48) 22 826 48 31, www. LQWLPDWHDQGUHOD[LQJ whichever brothel is giving the cabbie a kickback. Prices neworleans.pl. Open 21:00 - 04:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 21:00 - DWPRVSKHUH in these ‘high end’ establishments will tend to start at 05:00. Note that everyday the bar opens at 18:00, while 200zł, though don’t be tricked into buying champers for the club doesn’t open until 21:00. XW the lady unless you’re sure you can afford it. Similarly, ,I\RXDUHJRLQJ greenhorns should watch their wallet in strip clubs - bills SOFIA WRYLVLW:DUVDZ easily spiral, even more so when the drinks start being A legend in nineties and noughties Warsaw, there was a poured. time no self-respecting male could leave Warsaw without \RXKDYHWRYLVLW having fi rst visited Sofi a. Those days may have gone and Scumbag, fl y-by-night brothels still exist; STDs are a so it seemed had Sofi a. But it appears not with the open- fact of the trade, and don’t think for one jiff y you’re being of this place, three years after the original closed, just yond reproach. Do not assume either that the Barbie of down from Pl. Zbawiciela which boasts a modern spacious your choice is in on the game because she enjoys rolling club area and a host of minimally dressed women. In the around with aging baldies. Poland has an appalling record wild days of nineties Warsaw this was known in local par- where human traffi cking is concerned, and it’s safe to as- lance as The Bulgarian Embassy. It’ll be interesting to see if sume a fair few ladies staffi ng such venues have been co- it lives up to the reputation it built then.QF-4, ul. Polna 13, erced into their ‘career’. Finally, the venues listed here are tel. (+48) 22 224 25 24, www.klubsofi a.pl. Open 20:00 - generally central and established but please be warned 05:00. Closed Sun. UX that in recent months we’ve had a report of 8,000zł being 1LJKW&OXE6RÀD spent willingly in one club listed here and another of 8,000 3ROQDVWUHHW:DUVDZ sterling being spent unwillingly in one which is not listed 23(10RQ6XQIURP30 here. In the second case half of the money was retrieved More reviews online: from the bank because of ‘payment irregularities’ but be warsaw.inyourpocket.com ZZZNOXEVRÀDSO on your guard.

68 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 69 Essential Warsaw Sightseeing and Warsaw don’t usually go together, and the reason, if not the blame, for that falls on her citizens. While some cities may have been happy to wait out Nazi occupation, the Warsaw locals were having none of that. The ensuing uprising which took place in 1944 would become both the most glorious and tragic episode in Photo by Stanisław Kłosin the city’s history. Doomed from the outset the Warsaw Uprising enraged Hitler, and city’s doomed rebellion against the Nazis in 1944. Packed his retribution proved swift and brutal. Warsaw was to be with interactive displays, photographs, video footage and wiped from the face of the map, and his cronies set about miscellaneous exhibits this is guaranteed to leave a deep their orders with a zealous fury. While Red Army tanks stood mark on all visitors, and will go a long way in explaining stoically stationed across the river the Nazis set about blast- why Warsaw is far from the architectural pearl it once was. ing western Warsaw into oblivion. Anything deemed of cultural importance was dynamited, and whole districts were Although the Nazis fl attened the Jewish Ghetto after a he- set on fi re. By the time ‘liberation’ arrived, over 90% of the roic uprising in 1943 there are still traces of Warsaw’s Jew- city lay in total ruin. “I have seen many towns destroyed, but ish past, including a remaining piece of the Ghetto wall nowhere have I been faced with such destruction,” com- (E-3, ul. Sienna 55), a memorial where the loading ramp mented a visibly moved Dwight Eisenhower on a later visit to Treblinka once stood (E-1, Umschlagplatz) as well as to the city. That the city still stands at all is tribute enough one of the largest Jewish cemeteries in Europe (D-1, ul. to the indefatigable spirit of the Polish capital. Okopowa 49/51). Most recently, a trail marking the Ghetto boundaries has been unveiled, it’s course interspersed 21 Nowhere bore the brunt of the Nazi malice more than dual-language plaques at sights of specifi c interest. the Old Town, and it’s here that most tourists will choose to start their tour of Warsaw. Using paintings and photo- The city’s defi ning landmark graphs as an architectural blueprint the Old Town was however has to be the fear- painstakingly rebuilt, with the reconstruction of the historic some Palace of Culture and centre only completed as late as 1962. The area’s inclusion Science (B-4, pl. Defi lad 1). on the UNESCO World Heritage List speaks volumes for the Looking like something you’d eff ort involved, and nothing is more striking than the co- see in Ghostbusters the build- lourful, wonky-looking burgher houses that frame the Old ing towers at just over 231 Town Square (B-1/2, Rynek Starego Miasta). metres in height - making it Wilanóa ów Palaacec | Phothooto by W. Holnnicki the tallest and largest structure The historic centre is also home to numerous churches, in Poland. Commissioned by including the striking St. John’s Cathedral (B-2, ul. Stalin as a ‘gift from the Soviet Świętojańska 8) whose details number gothic artworks as people’ the building was com- well as the tombs of knights, regents and eminent citizens. pleted in 1955 and built using an estimated 40 million bricks. Marking the edge of the Old Town is the Royal Castle (B-2, The crowning glory of the structure is the viewing platform on pl. Zamkowy 4), reconstructed from a pile of rubble at in- the 30th fl oor, a must see. And while it’s the most obvious, it’s credible cost between 1971 and 1984. The prescribed tour not the only example of the Socialist Realist style, and visitors will take you through the Kings’ apartments and chambers, have plenty to marvel at from the everyman residential units heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish moments. of Muranow and pl. Konsytucji, to the stern looking block that Although you’ll fi nd plenty of photographic opportunities once housed Communist HQ (C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 6). in and amongst the tight cobbled alleyways save a few Warsaw Sightseeing shots for the viewing platform at the top of St. Anne’s Across the river the Praga suburb is undergoing a long Church (B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 68), and don’t due revival, and its growing reputation as an artistic ha- leave the area without fi rst exploring the lesser known de- ven is evident in the cafes that have sprung up along the lights of the New Town. pre-war Ząbkowska street. But while the Praga area is DISCOVER THE CAPITAL’S MANY TREASURES breathing once more, it still looks shabby. For a glimpse of There is far more to Warsaw than its Old Town however, and Warsaw’s Imperial beauty head instead to her palaces, in one museum that demands to be visited is the Warsaw particular Łazienki Park and Palace (G-4, ul. Agrykoli 1) Uprising Museum (D-3, ul. Grzybowska 79). It’s here, and Wilanów Palace - dubbed ‘The Polish Versailles’ - (ul. inside Poland’s best museum, that you’ll learn about the Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 10/16).

facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 71 Sightseeing Sightseeing SEGWAY CITY TOURS GUIDED TOURS Consider it the next generation of Warsaw tours: visitors are ADVENTURE WARSAW propelled 10km around town on Segway Personal Trans- GUIDED Tours of Warsaw including the popular “off the beaten porters (helmets, rain coats and instructions provided!) path” tour which delves into Socialism, communism and of and shown a vast swath of the city in around 3 hours. Tours course vodka, all while cruising in a vintage Nysa 522. You depart daily from the hotel Bristol and cost 347zl per per- can even get inside the Palace of Culture and Science for a son and require booking in advance. They also off er a 1.5 look around. Group, private and walking tours also available hour tour for 229zł per person. After the tour they give you from this crew of young, enthusiastic local guides, who will a voucher for a post-tour cocktail in Karmnik.Qtel. (+48) even take you and your stag party around town or host a 600 31 03 20, www.segwaycitytours.pl. pub crawl. Make time to check out their Museum of Life in the PRL (Muzeum Życia PRLu, open 10:00 - 16:00, admis- STATION WARSAW sion 8/5zł).Qul. Mińska 25 (Praga Południe), tel. (+48) Warsaw’s first bike tour company gets it right with a 606 22 55 25, www.adventurewarsaw.com. range of 3-hour routes that take visitors to places that stray from the usual Old Town tourist traps and prom- CITY SIGHTSEEING WARSAW ise great photo opportunities. The Wild Vistula trip gets If Warsaw needed proof that it has fi nally arrived as a tourist you up close to the river while the Cold War HQ trip will destination surely the launch of City Sightseeing is it. Hour- have you climbing through a three story underground long tours by way of a familiar red, double-decker bus let Atomic Command Headquarters. Call in advance to ar- you take in sights such as the Palace of Culture, the Royal range a tour, or sign on for their daily bike tour at 11:00, Castle, Łazienki Park and the Wybrzeże Gdańskie. Buy one 15:30 daily. After booking they will let you know the ticket and hop on and off the bus as you please. The bus de- starting location. Bike tours go from May-September TRACES MUST- CRAFTY CHARM TRACK JEWISH parts daily between 10:00-17:00 from the Palace of Culture and walking tours depart daily at 11:00 from King Sigis- OF SEE! WARSAW & OF WARSAW CHOPIN MAN ELEGANCE COMMUNISM on the Emilii Plater side (last tour leaves at 17:00). Commen- mund’s Column for a 2.5-hour wander through the Old tary available in a multitude of languages including English, Town.Qtel. (+48) 513 60 55 18, www.stationwarsaw. Polish, Spanish, French, German, Italian, Russian, Chinese, com. Bike tours 100zł; walking tour free (but be sure Japanese, Finnish and Hebrew. The recently added a new to tip). blue line that goes to the National Stadium daily from 10:30- 16:30. See their website for tour details, routes and timeta- WARSAW CITY-TOUR bles.Qtel. (+48) 793 97 33 56, www.city-sightseeing.pl. Bus tours of Warsaw on a yellow double-decker bus. In Tickets 24hr 60zł, 48hr 80zł, one trip 40zł. August they will have 8 trips from 09:50 till 17:50. From

September 1-15, they will offer 7 trips from 09:50 till STATION WARSAW aw W ars

-tour.com.pl CREATOURS 16:50 and from September 16 onward they will have www.city TOURS Whether you love it or loathe it, the Palace of Culture (PKiN) is only 4 trips about 09:50, 11:50, 13:50 and 15:50. The GO TO PLACES a spectacularly imposing architectural reminder of the Com- entire route takes about 1.5-2 hours and covers all the munist era. We love it, and there is no better way of visiting major sites in the city including the Old Town, Jewish NO CARS GO. than taking one of CREATours guided jaunts around the most Warsaw, WWII, Palace of Culture and Lazienki Park.Qtel. imposing halls and chambers in the building. The tour culmi- (+48) 500 03 34 14, www.city-tour.com.pl. Single Yellow Double-Decker Bus nates in a visit to the 30th fl oor viewing platform for stunning journey ticket 40/34zł. One day ticket 60/54 zł. Two Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist views of the city. Those who loathe it are keen to point out that day ticket 80/72zł. Family tickets (2 adults and 2 chil- attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way. the viewing platform is also one of the only places in Warsaw dren) 205zl/day, 274zl/2days; 130zl single journey; (2 from which you won’t have to view the building itself!QB-4, adults and 3 children 254zl/day, 340zl 2 days; 160zl Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hours, Pl. Defi lad 1 (entrance from ul. Marszałkowska), tel. (+48) single journey). One and two day tickets offer hop on/ a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful 22 656 61 48, www.creatours.pl. hop off option. and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical EAT WARSAW NEW cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites. Ever wondered what Polish cuisine has to off er beyond piero- WPT 1313 A GPS 12 language audio system, will give gi? Let energetic tour guides Magda (food) and Michał (vodka) Now here’s a novel idea; buy up a fl eet of legendary com- explanations and accompany lead you round some of their favourite haunts and introduce munist era Polski Fiat 125P cars, restore them, paint them you to make your ride a more you to how the locals guzzle and gulp! Sample a variety of Pol- New York cab yellow and provide tours around the city with adventurous, exciting and ish dishes and vodkas while learning how social and historical your very own quirky and highly informative driver/guide. an unforgettable one. 5% events shaped the popularity of Polish cuisine. Walking be- A great way to take a trip into the past, learn something YOUU CAN DDO IT. ON A BIKE! DISCOUNT tween venues also allows the knowledgeable guides to point and travel around in one of the most iconic vehicles of the * WOW! WARSAW * COMMUNIST TOUR with this out places of interest (The Food Tour lasts about 4 hours and 1960’s-70’s. Tours include; “Crafty Warsaw Man” - around * CITY BY NIGHT * JEWISH WARSAW ad the Vodka Tour is about 3) They also off er cooking workshops the historically dodgy and fascinating area of Praga, Jewish Price: 100 PLN / person if you want to polish your Polish cooking chops (literally). Make Warsaw and the Traces of Chopin tour. For detailed info on Book online and get a discount! Line approved by municipal sure to book ahead by phone or through their website.Qtel. all their services and to make a booking visit the company authorities. (+48) 513 60 55 18, www.eatwarsaw.com. Food tours (in- website. www.wpt1313.comQtel. (+48) 22 882 13 13, www.stationwarsaw.com +48 513 605 518; +48 502 815 844 www.city-tour.com.pl +48 500 033 414 cludes a full meal, plus dessert) 290zł; Vodka tours 190zł. www.wpt1313.com.

72 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 73 Sightseeing Sightseeing of note include an urn with the remains of Nobel Prize WARSAW STREET MURALS CHURCHES winning author Władysław Reymont, and tablets honour- TADEUSZ KOŚCIUSZKO Many Poles still see a direct connection between the ing various Polish icons including poet Juliusz Słowacki church and patriotism, explained much by the fact that and WWII hero Władysław Sikorski.QC-3, ul. Krakowskie History produces few men like Tadeusz Kościuszko during centuries of oppression by neighbouring powers, Przedmieście 3, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 10, www.swkrzyz.pl. (1746-1817). Kościuszko’s highest ideal was freedom, the church helped the nation of Poland to survive by giv- Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 14:00 - 16:00. No visiting during and he used his own to try and secure it for all those ing Poles an identity. Although on the wane in post-com- mass please. less fortunate. In one country - Poland - he failed and is munist Poland, the church still plays an important role in remembered as the greatest hero who ever walked the many people’s lives and churches refl ect the importance of JESUIT CHURCH (KOŚCIÓŁ JEZUITÓW) land. In another country - America - he succeeded, and religion in the history of the Polish nation. Built at the behest of King Zygmunt III Waza’s confes- yet has been almost completely forgotten. A monu- sor, Piotr Skarga, this lovely little Renaissance church was ment to the man was unveiled in November 2010 in CHURCH OF THE ASSUMPTION OF THE constructed between 1609 and 1626 for the city’s Jesuit the presence of the Polish President and the US Ambas- VIRGIN MARY AND OF ST. JOSEPH (KOŚCIÓŁ community. Having had something of a varied and colour- sador. The monument is an exact copy of one in Wash- WNIEBOWZIĘCIA NAJŚWIĘTSZEJ MARYI PANNY ful history to say the least, it suff ered at the hands of the ington by sculptor Antoni Popiel given to Americans I ŚWIĘTEGO JÓZEFA OBLUBIEŃCA) Swedes in the latter half of the 17th century, who looted on behalf of the Polish nation. At its unveiling outside Poland has long embraced the fact that large scale art- Known more commonly as the Carmelite Church, this it of its entire contents, and it even spent time as a store- of the White House in 1910 the promise was made to work and design motifs can be a fascinating and crea- structure features a stunning neoclassical facade originally house during the Partitions. Also known as the Holy Mother erect a copy in Poland if ever the country regained its tive option for advertising or, more recently, as an outlet created in the 18th century. It features twin belfries and is of Grace Church after the city’s patron saint, the church independence. for the artistic visions of local and international street most notable for being the site of Chopin’s fi rst employ- was returned to the Jesuits at the end of WWI only to be The man himself was educated in Warsaw and Paris and mural artists. During the communist era huge ad- ment as he was invited to perform a recital on the church’s destroyed by the Germans in 1944. Rebuilt between 1948 during which time Poland was partitioned for the fi rst vertisements would be painted onto the gable ends of organ. The church is set directly next to the Presidential and 1957, the church has a few remaining original interior time in 1772. Kościuszko found himself attracted to the buildings and factories. With the current fashion for all Palace and is unfortunately only open during mass.QB-2, parts - of particular interest is the 17th-century picture of American fi ght for independence and arrived in Phila- things retro and the undeniable coolness of Polish de- ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 52/54, tel. (+48) 22 556 61 the Holy Mother herself. The crypt, not open to visitors, delphia aged 30. sign from the 1960’s - 80’s the remaining wall paintings 00, www.wmsd.waw.pl/kosciol. Open by prior arrange- contains the remains of Prince Karol Ferdynand Waza and It was as a colonel in the engineering corps that are once again being seen as something to cherish. A ment. No visiting during mass please. Maciej Kazimierz Sarbiewski (1595-1640), the Jesuit priest, Kościuszko distinguished himself and it was his choice fi ne example, advertising the Toto lottery, can be seen poet and court preacher to King Władysław IV.QB-2, ul. of Bemis Heights as the place to engage the British on a vast wall along ul. Widok (B-4) in the city centre; HOLY CROSS CHURCH (KOŚCIÓŁ ŚW. KRZYŻA) Świętojańska 10, tel. (+48) 22 831 16 75, www.laskawa. that was to become the decisive turning point of the its current shabby state only adds to its sense of his- No Chopinologist can leave Warsaw without fi rst visiting pl. Open 09:00 - 15:30, Sun 14:00 - 15:30. No visiting dur- northern campaign - the Battle of Saratoga in Octo- tory and charm. One of our favourites adorns the end the fi nal resting place of his heart. Added to the church in ing mass please. ber 1777. Kościuszko was then charged with fortifying wall of a tenement block along ul. Wolska (D-2), a crazy 1882 his heart was sealed in an urn and then placed behind West Point, New York, where he built an impenetrable typographical mishmash of overlayed texts headed by a tablet bearing his likeness specially carved by Leonardo MILITARY CATHEDRAL fortress that would later become America’s premier the PRL slogan of ‘Mleko = Zdrowie’ (Milk = Health). Marconi. (KATEDRA POLOWA WOJSKA POLSKIEGO) military academy. Rewarded with citizenship, the rank This building can be spotted as you tootle along ul. Comprised of both the St. Francis of Assisi Church and of Brigadier General and land near Columbus, Ohio, at Towarowa on the tram in the direction of the must-see Although this serves as the church’s key draw there’s several monastery and built between 1662 and 1663 by the Piarist the end of hostilities, Kościuszko found himself instead Warsaw Uprising Museum. other features of note to tempt the visitor inside this as- friars, the extraordinary Military Cathedral, also known as drawn back to Poland whose aggressive neighbours tonishing Baroque creation. The church’s history originally the Church of Our Lady Queen of the Polish Crown, is the continued to threaten its sovereignty. Launched in 2010, the Bliżej Konsumenta (Closer to the On May 3, 1791 the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth Customer) organisation aims to document and protect dates from the 15th century when a small wooden chapel capital’s main garrison church. Having spent time as an Or- stood on the site. Destroyed during the Swedish Deluge of thodox Church, prison, orphanage and a depot for German created the fi rst constitution in modern Europe (second the small number of original communist era advertising in the world after America), which enacted widespread murals which are still with us. Their map, highlighting the 1650s, the church was rebuilt in 1682, with the corner- soldiers during WWI the church was reconstructed based stone being ceremoniously laid by Prince Jakub, son of King on original 17th-century drawings after independence in reforms and four days later the Russian army crossed worthy walls, is available as a free download from the the border triggering the Polish-Russian War of 1792. Modern Art Museum website (www.artmuseum.pl). Jan III Sobieski. Designed by the royal architect, Jakub Bel- 1918 and became the seat of the fi eld bishop of the Polish lotti, it was completed in 1696 though over time would see Army. Again rebuilt after its destruction during WWII, the Kościuszko again distinguished himself in battle and Today, street art around the city is going through a numerous additions to its shape. The most notable of these church is now decorated with a peculiar mix of religious became regarded as Poland’s leading military strategist tidal wave of popularity and notoriety. This summer’s would come in the following century when Józef Fontana and military artefacts, including a number of large oil paint- having never been defeated. However the neighbour- fi fth edition of the Street Art Doping Festival invited added two Baroque crowns to the square-cut twin towers. ings depicting the most well known of Poland’s battles and ing powers further reduced the power and size of Po- Q three of Europe’s top street artists, Dome (Germany), His son Jakub would later extensively refurbish the façade uprisings. B-2, ul. Długa 13/15, tel. (+48) 22 687 77 02, land through the Second Partition of Poland (January Sam3 (Spain) and Phlegm (UK), to leave their large with Jan Jerzy Plersch adding elaborate decorative touches www.katedrapolowa.pl. Open 07:30 - 21:00. No visiting 21, 1793) leaving Kościuszko to resolve that the Poles scale marks around town. Their murals can be seen at to the interior. during mass please. were going to have to drive their oppressors out and to ul. Racławicka 17 (F-6), ul. Rakowiecka 2c (F/G-5) and regain their independence. ul. Mińska 12 (in Praga Południe) respectively. Home- Throughout history the church has played its role in War- ST. BENNO’S CHURCH (KOŚCIÓŁ ŚW. BENONA) What followed came to be known as the Kościuszko grown work can also be seen all around the city, with saw’s glories and calamities. It was here that the last Polish Benno’s has a wacky history. King Sigismund III was a devo- Uprising. Kościuszko, using his experience of the Ameri- the more down at heel districts of Praga (G/H-1) and King forged the Order of the Knights of St Stanislaus, and tee of St. Benno and invited peer priests from Bavaria to can war of Independence, led his ill-equipped peasant Wola being particularly well represented. it was directly outside in 1861 that Russian troops brutally Warsaw in the 17th century. Their main aim was to support army to victory over the Russian army at Racławice. suppressed a patriotic protest. It was this bloodbath that lit Germans living outside their home country. Ironically, in The ultimate defeat of Poland resulted in the Third To help you fi nd some of the city-centre highlights the touchpaper for the January Uprising of that year. Dev- 1944, the chapel was blown to smithereens by you-know- Partition of Poland (October 24th, 1795) and Poland of Warsaw’s growing street art scene, we’ve marked astated during the Warsaw Uprising in 1944 the church was who. Rebuilt by the Poles in 1958, it now has an interesting disappeared from the map of Europe for the next 123 known murals with a icon on the city maps in the Q years. Read more about the man in our feature online. painstakingly rebuilt at the end of the war and is today a interior dating from 1977. B-1, ul. Piesza 1, tel. (+48) 22 Q back of this guide. Check it out! feast for the heart, eyes and soul. The organ (built in Sal- 578 70 10, www.swbenon.redemptorysci.eu. Open dur- A/B-3, Pl. Za Żelazną Bramą. zburg in 1925) is the largest in Warsaw, and other points ing mass and by prior arrangement.

74 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 75 Sightseeing Sightseeing ST. CASIMIR’S CHURCH Nowogródek (Lithuania), others say the nearby Zaolsie. A who plays solo’. During WWII he became an eminent fi gure THE EASTERN WALL (KOŚCIÓŁ BENEDYKTYNEK - SAKRAMENTEK) champion of freedom, he died during a cholera outbreak in the London based exiled Polish Parliament, though died Founded by Mary Sobieski, wife of King Jan III Sobieski, in Turkey, 1855, while recruiting a Polish legion to fi ght the in 1941 with the country of his birth still under occupation. to commemorate her husband’s victory over the Turkish Russians in the Crimea. Originally buried in Paris, Mickie- QG-4, Park Ujazdowski. army at the Gates of Vienna. The baroque-style church was wicz’s body now lies in Wawel Cathedral, Kraków. designed by Tylman van Gameren and was completed in His defi ning masterpiece, Pan Tadeusz, is a beautifully writ- JAN KILIŃSKI MONUMENT 1692. In 1944 it served as a Polish fi eld hospital, and re- ten epic portraying Polish society in the 19th century. His A huge monument honour- ceived a direct hit from a German bomb, killing more than statue dominates ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, and traces ing Jan Kiliński, a Warsaw 1,000 civilians, priests, nuns and soldiers who were inside. of bullet holes dating from WWII are still visible on the cobbler who became the Today it has been fully restored and has a charred wooden monument.QB-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 5. unlikely hero of the 1794 cross as tribute to those who died. Please note that the Kościuszko Uprising. De- church specially requests solemnity and quiet while visit- CROSS-MONUMENT spite being wounded twice, ing.QB-1, Rynek Nowego Miasta 2, tel. (+48) 22 831 49 Nine metres high and made of Kiliński and his troop of 62, www.sakramentki.opoka.org.pl. Open by prior ar- white granite June 6, 2009 saw peasants captured the Rus- rangement. the unveiling of giant cross on sian Ambassador’s Warsaw pl. Piłsudskiego. It was here that residence; an action that ul- ST. FRANCIS SERAPH CHURCH (KOŚCIÓŁ Pope John Paul II returned to timately led to his imprison- STYGMATÓW ŚW. FRANCISZKA SERAFICKIEGO) Warsaw for the fi rst time after ment in St. Petersburg. Said Reeling from near total annihilation the post-war years Completed in 1733 this baroque masterpiece holds the re- being made pope, and it was to embody the Polish virtues of bravery and patriotism, saw Warsaw emerge as Europe’s biggest brickyard as it mains of St Vitalis; see the glass coffi n for yourself by visiting also on this spot a candlelit vigil his statue was erected in 1936 and originally located on struggled to rebuild itself from the ashes. Initially the the chapel to your left. Many of the religious relics found was held when news fi rst broke pl. Krasińskich. In reprisal for an attack on the Copernicus buzzword for architects in the region was Socialist Re- scattered around were donated by Pope Benedict XIV in of his death. The inscription Monument, Nazi troops hid Kiliński inside the vaults of the alism, a severe style following strict guidelines from a 1754, and this church is also entered in the history books as is taken from his sermon and reads: ‘Let your spirit come National Museum. Within days, boy scouts had daubed the Soviet masterplan. The death of Stalin in 1953 changed holding the fi rst free mass in Warsaw following the fl ight of down and renew the face of earth, this earth’. Unveiled by museum with the graffi ti ‘People of Warsaw! I am here, Jan all that and architects looked to the west for inspiration, the Nazis. Currently the left nave is obscured due to reno- Warsaw Mayor Hanna Gronkiewicz Waltz and Archbishop Kiliński.’ After the war the cobbler was returned to his right- a disastrous move that saw all manner of brutalist mon- vations, but the rest of the church is open.QB-1, ul. Za- Kazimierz Nycz, the towering monument was designed by ful place, before being fi nally relocated to ul. Podwale in strosities rise from the ruins. The competition in Warsaw kroczymska 1, tel. (+48) 22 831 20 31, www.warszawa. Jerzy Mierzwiaka, Marek Kuciński and Natalia Wilczak.QB- 1959.QB-2, ul. Podwale. is fi erce, but probably nastiest of the lot is the develop- franciszkanie.pl. Open 07:00 - 19:00. No visiting during 3, Pl. Piłsudskiego. ment dubbed ‘the Eastern Wall’ (Ściana Wschodnia), a mass please. JÓZEF PIŁSUDSKI MONUMENT collection of buildings and tower block running from IGNACY PADEREWSKI Casting a steely gaze over Rondo Dmowskiego (B-4) to ul. Świętokrzyska (B-3). ST. MARY’S CHURCH Born in Kuryłówka in 1860 Paderewski is fondly remem- the square named in his Architect Zbigniew Karpiński - the guy who also de- (KOŚCIÓŁ NAWIEDZENIA NMP) bered as a politican, patriot and musician. Having entered honour is a gloomy looking signed the bunker-like US Embassy on ul. Piękna - won Scan the horizon of the New Town and chances are you’ll the Warsaw Conservatorium at the age of 12 he worked as Field Marshal Piłsudski, a man the competition to rebuild the area and set about re- fi nd your eyes settling on the Gothic shape of the Church a piano tutor after graduation. The death of his wife, just many Poles hold responsible modelling the centre of Warsaw with the zealous glee of the Visitation of St Mary. Built in the 15th century on the a year after they married, spurred him to commit his life for winning the country its of a complete nutter. Construction kicked off in 1962 whim of a Mazovian princess this brick beauty allegedly to music and in 1887 he made his public debut in Vienna. independence in 1918. Re- and was completed seven years later, the result being stands on the site of an ancient pagan place of worship. His talent was obvious and his growing popularity saw him garded as a political and mili- four department stores, the Rotunda bank building, a Extensively remodelled over the centuries it was rebuilt storm both Europe and the States, not just as a pianist, but tary hero this man did more blockish offi ce building behind it, a cinema, and even true to its original form after WWII.QB-1, ul. Przyrynek a masterful composer as well. He was based in Paris dur- than most to free Poland a nightclub. Towering over it all were three residential 2, tel. (+48) 22 831 22 53, www.przyrynek.pl. Open ing WWI and it was during this time he became actively from the shackles of Russian blocks situated on Świętokrzyska (85 metres), Zgoda 30 minutes before and during mass only and by prior involved in politics, becoming spokesman for the Polish control; his early years saw (87 metres) and Chmielna (81 metres). Originally hailed arrangement. National Committee. With the end of the war he sought him imprisoned in Siberia after being wrongfully convicted a work of genius the Eastern Wall soon became a bit of a return to his homeland where, having played a key role of plotting to assassinate the Tsar, though his fi nest hour a rusty elephant, crippled and blackened with age and in the Wielkopolska Uprising (which saw Poznań merged undoubtedly came in 1920 when he beat off the Bolshe- neglect. The collapse of communism breathed new MONUMENTS into the newly reformed Polish state), he was elected Po- vik hordes at the gates of Warsaw, inadvertently saving a life into the complex - Poland’s fi rst McDonald’s was ADAM MICKIEWICZ MONUMENT land’s third ever prime minister. It was he who signed for battered post-war Europe from being fl ooded by the ram- opened at the Świętokrzyska end of the complex, while Patriot, poet and the man who inspired Romanticism in Poland’s part in the 1919 Treaty of Versailles, though his fall pant Soviets. Unveiled in 1995 this particular monument is the offi ce block behind the Rotunda temporarily held Poland, Mickiewicz stands out as Poland’s greatest literary from grace was just around the corner. Many thought he the work of Tadeusz Łodziany, and Piłsudski fans can view the title for having the largest billboard in the world. fi gure - as well as a fi gure of hope during a bleak age of Rus- had sold Poland short and in the face of growing public dis- another such monument to the man on ul. Belwederska. More recently steps have been taken to polish up the sian oppression. His involvement in politics saw him exiled content he resigned from offi ce in December 1919. A short QF-2, Pl. Piłsudskiego. area with shining glass frontages added to the depart- east in 1824 by the ruling Russians, before fi nally heading stint as Poland’s representative in the League of Nations fol- ment stores, and granite fl oored pedestrian walkways to western Europe in 1829. A bid to return to his homeland lowed before he opted to resume his musical career. Aside KING SIGISMUND’S COLUMN and modern tubular lighting added to the section in 1830 was thwarted at the border, and he never saw his from being a skilled musician, the mop haired Paderewski Built in honour of the man who made Warsaw the capital behind the Jerozolimskie end. But snoop behind the native Poland again. was also a popular public speaker, known for his devastat- of Poland, the column was erected back in 1664 and stands area around McD’s and you’ll fi nd a glorious blast to the Much mystery surrounds his life; his role as a national ing wit. One anecdote recalls him being introduced to a twenty two metres high. During the war the column col- past, with smashed pavements, useless bare-lit super- cultural icon meaning that much of the seamier side of polo player with the words: ‘You are both leaders in your lapsed under bombardment and the original now lies close markets and a couple of cafes selling ersatz coff ee to his life has been covered up, including his involvement in spheres, though the spheres are very diff erent’. Not one to to the Royal Castle (and is considered lucky to touch). The hunched old men smoking cigarettes by the fi stful. strange cults and alleged womanising. To this day, even his miss a beat Paderewski deadpanned ‘Not so very diff erent, fi gure of Sigismund survived and the new column was birthplace remains a hot source of argument. Some say you are a dear soul who plays polo, and I am a poor Pole proudly re-erected in 1949.QB-2, Pl. Zamkowy.

76 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 77 Sightseeing Sightseeing NIKE FOTOPLASTIKON Just before hitting the WZ tunnel that rumbles below the MUSEUMS MULTIMEDIA FOUNTAIN old town visitors can’t fail but see a giant cast iron statue Warsaw now has an ever more impressive selection of PARK Now, you may hear some people claiming this to be of Nike: as in the Greek Goddess of Victory, not the shoe. museums dotted around and even older ones are getting the only fotoplastikon in Europe. This is clearly a lie - Standing with sword raised aloft this noble structure is ac- facelifts to bring the visitor experience into the 21st cen- This tourist attraction was opened in May 2011 as part there’s one across the road in the Palace of Culture, tually offi cially named ‘Monument to the Heroes of Warsaw tury. There are still instances of poor or no English language of the city of Warsaw’s ongoing attempt to increase the for a start. Nonetheless, don’t let that stop your visit. 1939-1945’, and remembers the thousands of locals who explanations but these are becoming less common. With- city’s number of cultural and tourist attractions and Hidden away in a darkened pre-war tenement a visit fought against - and died under - Nazi rule. The statue out doubt the big three places on your list should be the has been met with widespread acclaim and approval. here really is a trip back in time. So what the devil is a made its debut in 1964, originally standing on pl. Teatralny. Uprising Museum which charts the defi ning period in the Located in the Podzamcze district a short walk to the fotoplastikon? Invented in Germany in the second half This was before there was any offi cial memorial to the history of modern Warsaw; the Copernicus Science Centre north of the old town, the Multimedia Fountain Park of the 19th century they’re basically a 3D peep show Warsaw Uprising, and as such Nike became the favoured which is the city’s most interactive and visitor friendly mu- as it is known is a visual delight combining music, light (no, not the saucy kind) set inside a great big drum- assembly point for Polish veterans, as well as student seum and the Chopin Museum which is both interesting and, as the name suggests, fountains. like contraption. Presenting vivid images from across agitators in later years. In 1997 Pl. Teatralny underwent a and Warsaw’s best example of a modern museum experi- Built on the site of a derelict concrete pond, the foun- the world these groovy machines became an absolute well-deserved facelift and the fearsome Nike found herself ence. Most museums listed present a cycle of temporary tain is part of a plan to revitalize this central Warsaw sensation and at any onetime there were an estimated forklifted over to her current spot where she stands with a exhibitions, details of which can be found in our culture district by attracting visitors from the tourist trail close 250 in Europe. Warsaw apparently got its fi rst in 1901, watchful eye over the cars and buses that gasp to-and-fro. and events section. by and cost over 11 million PLN to create. Featuring and the one on show here is thought to be from 1905. QB-2, near Pl. Zamkowy (Trasa W-Z scarp). 367 nozzles which are capable of fi ring water 800 cu- Although fotoplastikons were made obsolete by im- ADAM MICKIEWICZ MUSEUM OF LITERATURE bic metres of water 25m into the air over the rebuilt, proved camera and fi lm technology this one continued SYRENA (MUZEUM LITERATURY IM. ADAMA 3,000 square metre pond, the stunning visual show is to open for the public, and during the war apparently The mermaid is the symbol of MICKIEWICZA) provided by the synchronisation of 295 LED RGB lights served as a contact point for the Polish underground. Warsaw, and as such you’ll fi nd Find out about the smart Alec who inspired Romanticism combined with a laser projector with the fountain. Its role as a meeting point for academics and intellec- her likeness on everything from in Poland. As well as aving a number of manuscripts and Shows last about 30 minutes and include sets where tuals continued well into communism, and today this buses to beer cans. The legend historical artefacts connected with Mickiewicz, the mu- the fountains are lit in a myriad of colours or where la- family run operation allows visitors to glimpse Warsaw dates to the time of Prince seum also has exhibits connected with other leading Pol- sers create visual eff ects such as the Warsaw symbol of and other global landmarks in their pre-war glory. The Kazimierz, who allegedly got ish writers. If Polish writers are your bag be sure to check Syrena (the Mermaid) moving through the water. By far show lasts 20 minutes and comes highly recommend- the most impressive part of the show is where a series Q lost while on a hunting expe- out the three other related sites that are part of the city’s ed. F-3, Al. Jerozolimskie 51, tel. (+48) 22 629 60 dition in the area that is now Museum of Literature and celebrate historic authors: of fi lms and images are projected onto a wall of water 78, www.fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl. Open 10:00 - created by the spray from the fountains. You’ll see fi lms N Warsaw. Behold, a mermaid the Władysław Broniewski Museum of Literature at ul. J. 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 4/2zł. Sun free. transpired from the marshland, Dąbrowskiego 51 (F-6), the Andrzej Strug Museum of Lit- following themes such as Chopin’s Warsaw, Modern and guided the hapless prince erature at Al. Niepodległości 210/10a (F-4) and the Maria Warsaw or Legends of Warsaw projected with remark- NICOLAUS COPERNICUS MONUMENT to safety by fi ring burning arrows. Firmly established as an Dąbrowska Museum of Literature at ul. Polna 40/31 (F-4). able clarity onto this wall of water while pieces of music The founder of modern as- icon of Warsaw you’ll fi nd three mermaid statues in Warsaw, QB-1, Rynek Starego Miasta 20, tel. (+48) 22 831 76 91, ranging from Chopin to Lady Gaga blast from the sur- tronomy. A sheltered academic, specifi cally on (C-1), Old Town Square, (D-2), Świętokrzyski www.muzeumliteratury.pl. Open 10:00 - 15:00, Wed, rounding speakers. he made his observations a Bridge and on (C-2/3), ul. Karowa. The original mermaid - or Thu 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat and ev- The shows have proved so popular that visitors are century before the invention syrena in local parlance - stands in the Historical Museum, ery last Sun of the month. Admission 6/5zł, Sun free for warned to take up a position as early as possible on the of the telescope and without and was crafted from bronze by the expert hand of Lud- permanent exhibit only. N banked viewing terraces in order to get the best views help or guidance. His book De wika Nitschowa. Modelling for her was actress Krystyna and early demand resulted in the number of shows Revolutionibus (1543) posited Krahelska, who was mortally injured on the fi rst day of the ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM being increased to satisfy the large numbers of locals that the earth rotated on its axis Uprising while working as a fi eld nurse. (MUZEUM ETNOGRAFICZNE) and foreign tourists wanting to experience the show. once a day, travelled around the Tragically overlooked by far too many visitors to Warsaw We thoroughly recommend it and while it is hardly the sun once a year, and that man’s TOMB OF THE UNKNOWN SOLDIER (who can’t see past World War II and communism) this is Bellagio show from Vegas it is defi nitely an enjoyable way to spend time after dining in the old town or as a place in the cosmos was peripheral. This may seem obvious The only surviving part of the a joy of a museum that showcases and highlights all that’s Q today, but it was an utterly radical idea at the time. destroyed Saxon Palace. The best about Poland’s cultural heritage. There are costumes, starting point to the evening ahead. B-1, Skwer im. I Although astronomers who propagated his ideas were burnt palace was constructed during handicrafts, furniture, Polish inventions, art, photographs; Dywizji Pancernej, www.estrada.com.pl. Shows take at the stake and the Catholic church placed De Revolutionibus the 17th century though the most of it is beautifully presented in what is a superb build- place Friday and Saturday nights at 21:30 in August on its list of banned books (as late as 1835), there was no turn- tomb was not added to the ing. There are also exhibitions of African and Australasian and 21:00 in September. ing back progress. The modern cosmological view - that our complex until 1925. Eerily, the (the latter closed until the end of the year) ethnographic art, galaxy is one of billions in a vast universe - is this man’s legacy. tomb was the only part of the and the museum is one of the city’s most active, putting on The statue itself was unveile in 1830 and has seen its fair structure to survive being dy- all sorts of temporary exhibitions and organising hands-on share of adventure. During WWII the Nazi’s placed a bronze namited by the Nazis. The ashes events and workshops. Directors of Warsaw’s other muse- plaque insinuating that the great man was in fact - gasp - a of unknown soldiers from WWII ums might want to come and take notes. Just brilliant, and German. In 1942, a boy scout called Alek Dawidowski ducked have been fi ttingly added.QB-3, Pl. Piłsudskiego. unquestionably essential. A major renovation was recently the guards and removed the plaque. Boiling with fury, the Na- completed and two permanent exhibits of interest can be zis removed the statue, hid it in Silesia and dynamited a few ‘TO THOSE DEPORTED explored: Time to Celebrate Polish and European Folk Cul- other surrounding monuments for good measure. The statue AND MURDERED IN THE EAST’ ture and Ordinary Extraordinary.QB-3, ul. Kredytowa 1, was recovered in the years following the war, while Dawid- Dating from 1995, and designed by Maksymilian Biskupski, tel. (+48) 22 827 76 41, www.ethnomuseum.pl. Open owski has entered Polish folklore as a result of his bravery. The this monument remembers the victims of Soviet aggres- 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed plaque at the centre of the storm is currently held in Warsaw’s sion and all those deported to the wastes of Siberia.QE-1, Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admis- History Museum.QC-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście. Intersection of Bonifraterska, Andersa and Muranowska. sion 12/6zł. Sat free. U Photo: Michał Radwański

78 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 79 Sightseeing Sightseeing GALLERY OF PAINTINGS, SCULPTURE AND THE location on an escarpment overlooking the Vistula. Visiting be in the Żoliborz area, and that’s because Father Jerzy DECORATIVE ARTS (GALERIA MALARSTWA, hours are 6 am until dusk.QG-7, ul. Puławska 113a, tel. was no ordinary priest. Popiełuszko came to national at- TOURIST INFORMATION RZEŹBY I SZTUKI ZDOBNICZEJ) (+48) 22 843 15 86, www.krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl. Open tention in the early1980s for his fi erce anti-communist The east wing of the Royal Castle’s main fl oor is now home 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Last rhetoric, and with close ties to Radio Free Europe and TOURIST INFORMATION to a permanent exhibition of various works of art that had entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/4zł, Solidarity it wasn’t long till he ran afoul of the internal This central tourist information offi ce is inside the Pal- formerly been spread throughout the property, includ- Thu free. N security services. In 1984, with Poland in political chaos, ace of Culture (if you exit central station on the Złote ing two works by Rembrandt: The Girl in a Picture Frame they decided to get rid of him altogether. A car accident Tarasy shopping complex side and cross over the road and The Scholar at the Lectern. Both paintings were part MUSEUM OF INDEPENDENCE was set up for this purpose, though Popiełuszko some- you’ll see it). Inside you can choose from a series of guides as well as buy some souvenir books and gifts. of a major donation of 37 works of art given by Count- (MUZEUM NIEPODLEGŁOŚCI) how survived unscathed. Six days later he was abducted, Q ess Karolina Lanckorońska, a Polish resistance fi ghter and Rather ironically, the museum that charts Poland’s struggle beaten and murdered, his corpse dumped in a reser- B-4, Palace of Culture, Pl. Defi lad 1 (entrance concentration camp survivor who, upon Poland’s return to for freedom was home to the Lenin Museum during com- voir. His funeral drew a crowd of 250,000 mourners and from ul. Emilii Plater), tel. (+48) 22 194 31, www. independence in 1989, bequeathed her family’s art collec- munist rule. Celebrating Polish patriotism, the museum made headlines the world over. Today the basement of warsawtour.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00. tion to the nation. The Castle has done an impressive job covers all the key dates of Polish history, including the his former parish church has been turned into a museum of staging the artworks, with muted walls and focused 1794 Kościuszko Uprising, the 19th century insurrections, to remember not just his life, but the whole struggle for TOURIST INFORMATION lighting keeping all the attention on the various portraits of Piłsudski’s return to Poland, WWII and the rise of Solidarity post-war freedom. Newssheets printed by the under- Located in the arrivals hall of the new part of the air- 16th and 17th century royalty like Marie Antoinette and still (though this last exhibit is currently unavailable). Among ground, banners from the Solidarity strikes and pictures port, the point is small but has all the necessary guides and maps you might need including In Your Pockets. life paintings of fl ower-fi lled bounties. There’s also a room the 48,000 exhibits are objects recovered from WWII con- of the funeral are among the many items on display, as Q devoted to porcelain, tapestries and glassware from the centration camps, and some wonderful displays of Socialist are the clothes he was wearing when he was kidnapped. ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 194 31, era. The Castle’s free admission on Sundays have seen the Realist artwork. Two of the current exhibitions on display Particularly poignant is a curved wall, it’s bricks inscribed www.warsawtour.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00. new gallery overrun with visitors, so serious art lovers will are the Kościuszko Uprising 1794 and Polonia Restitu- with the names of martyrs ‘dealt with’ by security services want to pay for the chance to wander at a less harried pace. ta about independence and borders 1914-1921.QB-2, Al. between 1981 and 1989.Qul. Kardynała Stanisława TOURIST INFORMATION QB-2, Pl. Zamkowy 4 (Royal Castle), tel. (+48) 22 355 51 Solidarności 62, tel. (+48) 22 826 90 91, www.muzeum- Hozjusza 2 (Żoliborz), tel. (+48) 22 561 00 56, www. Find this point on the Market Square of Old Town where you can pick up maps, guides, book tours and 70, www.zamek-krolewski.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun niepodleglosci.pl. Open 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. popieluszko.net.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 Q 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free. Donations buy gifts and souvenirs. B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta closing. Admission 20/15zł, family ticket 10zł per person. 8/5zł. Thu free. N welcome. 19/21/21a, tel. (+48) 22 194 31, www.warsawtour.pl. Sun free. U Open 09:00 - 20:00. MUSEUM OF JOHN PAUL II COLLECTION NATIONAL MUSEUM KRÓLIKARNIA (MUZEUM KOLEKCJI IM. JANA PAWŁA II) (MUZEUM NARODOWE W WARSZAWIE) of history. During the post-Stalin years these neons were This is exactly the kind of overlooked museum that houses Located inside a huge and decidedly bizarre inter-war seen as symbols of economic success and the strive gems tourists will consider themselves lucky to stumble building, Warsaw’s National Museum has thankfully just towards a more open and culturally relaxed society. upon. In 1986 Janina and Zbigniew Carroll-Porczynski reopened after a long renovation that has seen many The glowing signs, designed by some of Poland’s top gifted the country with 400 paintings and sculptures ac- changes including the renovation of the museum’s main architects and designers, advertised products, cinemas, quired through years of dabbling in Western European courtyard, a major rearrangement of the permanent gal- dancehalls, restaurants and cocktail bars and also served art. The Carroll-Porczynskis themselves are an interesting leries and an impressive upcoming schedule of temporary as local landmarks. The post-communist years saw a duo - she was sent to Sibera in 1940, then matriculated to exhibits. Considering the new overhaul this museum is a scant disregard for anything connected to that era, many Rhodesia and England where she obtained several degrees must for anyone visiting the city. Dating from 1862 and buildings were demolished and the beautiful neons were while he was part of the Home Army and sent to Pawiak operating under its current name since 1916, there’s a simply tossed into skips or left in states of disrepair to rot Prison, Auschwitz and Buchenwald before going to Eng- huge array of permanent exhibitions and antiquities. away. Luckily, Karwińska and Hill saw the signifi cance of land and getting a PhD. Their collection is now housed Visitors will fi nd a wealth of delightful 15th-century Dutch these artefacts and have managed to save over 50 neons in the historical Bank of Poland building and includes a and Flemish paintings in the Gallery of Old European and around 500 letterforms from certain destruction. The unicorn sculpture by Salvador Dali, a painting of Renoir’s Paintings and several galleries of Polish art from the 16th museum is also home to a huge archive of documenta- son Pierre, an idyllic farm scene by Van Gogh, the head of century onwards, including some of the best work by the tion, blueprints, photographs and original plans relating John the Baptist by Rodin…the mind boggles at the list country’s leading names in art - Chełmoński and Matejko to the history of these signs. Housed in the super cool Królikarnia, which translates as “the rabbit house,” is a lavish of noted artists housed here. The Bank’s soaring rotunda to name a few. There is also a large gallery of medieval Soho Factory complex, the museum is certainly a one palace in Mokotów named for its role as King Augustus II is home to over 80 self-portraits, and the fi rst fl oor houses art and a new gallery dedicated to works from the 20th the Strong’s rabbit warren for hunting. Built between 1782 works of a more religious nature. One of the most stunning and 21st centuries is well worth a look for fans of more and 1786, the palace has been home to a number of in- is Wojciech Gerson’s Baptism of Lithuania, a massive paint- recent pieces.QC-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, tel. (+48) 22 621 teresting residents including insurrection leader Tadeusz ing that represents Lithuania’s baptism into Christianity. A 10 31, www.mnw.art.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 Kościuszko and Charles Thomatis, a man many believe lack of surly museum maids and a well-marked route make - 21:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes before acted as a pimp for King Stanisław August Poniatowski. the JPII museum even more enjoyable.QA-2, Pl. Bankowy closing. Ticket prices: permanent exhibitions 15/10zł, Like much of Warsaw, the palace was obliterated during 1, tel. (+48) 22 620 27 25. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed entire museum 20/15zł. Family ticket: 40zł permanent the war but meticulously rebuilt in 1964 and now operates Mon. Admission 8/4 zł. N exhibits, 50zł entire museum. Tue free for permanent as an art museum that features the works of famed Polish exhibition. Y sculptor and Auschwitz survivor Xawery Dunikowski on the MUSEUM OF PRIEST JERZY POPIEŁUSZKO verdant park grounds (you can keep an eye out for The Soul (MUZEUM BŁOGOSŁAWIONEGO KS. JERZEGO NEON MUSEUM Escaping the Body, a sculpture that is replicated on Du- POPIEŁUSZKI) A brilliantly illuminating (ha!) private initiative by Lon- nikowski’s tombstone). Visitors can end their museum visit You’d probably think a museum honouring a priest don-based photographer Ilona Karwińska and graphic with a meal courtesy of the café which prepares picnics and doesn’t sound like much fun, and indeed this place really designer David S. Hill to salvage Poland’s culturally sig- off ers blankets for outdoor dining, a must considering its isn’t. However, it is a very decent detour if you happen to nifi cant neon signs of the 1960’s-70’s from the dustbin Neon Museum Mat Fahrenholz

80 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 81 Sightseeing Sightseeing of a kind experience and well worth a visit for anyone the gallery also houses a very good bookshop and a café. SASKI PALACE interested in design history and Poland’s past. Remem- Due to the “Zielony Jazdów” project, until 14/09 the exhibi- PRESIDENTIAL PALACE ber to keep your eye out for some of the remaining old tions are open for viewers Fri and Sat 12:00 - 22:00.QG-4, neons which are still ‘in-situ’ around Warsaw - for ex- ul. Jazdów 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 64 08, www.csw.art.pl. If pre-war Warsaw was ample the brilliant ‘Netball Player’ on Plac Konstytucji or Open 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Last considered the Paris of the ‘Dancing’ sign on Nowy Świat.Qul. Mińska 25, Soho entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/6zł, the East then Krakowskie Factory, Building 55, tel. (+48) 516 60 88 81, www. Thu free. U Przedmieśćie would have neonmuzeum.org. Open 12:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - been its Champs Elysees, 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Suggested donation 10/5zł. WARSAW MUSEUM (MUZEUM WARSZAWY) its importance recognized UN One of our favourite museums, The Warsaw Museum has by the number of palaces, been offl ine for several issues now but is easing into a institutions, monuments and churches that line it. Of POLISH ARMY MUSEUM return after months of renovations, which will continue those none are more important than the Presidential One piece of lost Warsaw that is set to rise again is the (MUZEUM WOJSKA POLSKIEGO) to take place over the next several years. What can you Palace at number 46/48, that mysterious fenced-off Saski Palace, formerly located in the grounds of Saski see so far? Not very much as the main fl oor is closed for building guarded by stone lions and stern looking sol- Park (B-2). Originally the residence of the Morsztyn fam- overhaul. One aspect not to be missed, however, is the diers. Construction on it started in 1643 at the behest ily the building was purchased by King Augustus II and fi lm “Warsaw Will Remember” in the museum’s cinema. of Stanisław Koniecpolski, though was only completed substantially enlarged and used by both him and his The fi lm addresses the war years from 1939-1945 and after his death. It passed into the hands of various aris- successor, Augustus III. Off -topic, but nevertheless worth the rebuilding of the city. The fi lm is shown on the hour tocratic families and in the 18th century became famed airing, amateur historians will delight in learning that Au- Tue-Thu from 10:00-17:00; Fri-Sun 10:00-19:00 and lasts for its banquets – the most extravagant being held to gustus II sired 12 children by diff erent women, while his 20 minutes (in French, Italian German and Spanish by commemorate the coronation of Stanisław II August successor managed to match the number, only this time request). Film tickets are 10/7zł (and the entrance for Poniatowski in 1789; over two million złoty was spent staying loyal to his wife in the process. the fi lm is from Rynek Starego Miasta 42) while general entertaining the 4,000 guests. Poniatowski was to Back on track, when Augustus III passed away (shagged museum admission is 10/7zl. Thursday, however, are free. prove one of the nation’s fi nest monarchs and the Con- out most likely) the building fell into disuse before being QB-1, Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, tel. (+48) 22 635 stitution of May 3, 1791, signed on these very grounds, rented out for accommodation. Between 1806-1816 the 16 25, www.muzeumwarszawy.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. is recognized as Europe’s fi rst – and only the second in Prussians established Warsaw Lyceum on the premises, Closed Mon. U the world. A statue of Poniatowski’s brother, himself and confl icting evidence suggests that Chopin either lived a military hero, was added to in 1965. Of its residents there for a time, or that his father taught French in one of The chronological history of the Polish army is presented none were more eccentric than General Zajączek, a one the outbuildings. Extensively remodelled in 1842 the Pal- in a series of gloomy rooms. Suits of armour, crossbows, PLACES OF INTEREST legged Duke who was carried around in his armchair by ace fi nally assumed its best known shape in 1925 when muskets, medals and paintings pack this museum, though INVISIBLE EXHIBITION a team of simpering servants. After 1818 it became the the Tomb of the Unknown soldier was added to the series the scarcity of English-language explanations mean you’ll (NIEWIDZIALNA WYSTAWA) seat of the Viceroy of the Polish Kingdom, and its halls of colonnades used to link the two wings together. Serv- need to hire an English-speaking guide to get the most out Would you pay good money for an exhibition you can’t entertained many a visiting Tsar. In 1852 calamity struck ing as the seat of the Polish General Staff after WWI it was of the place. The room at the end is dedicated to Poland’s see? That’s the idea behind Niewidzialna Wystawa (“The and the palace was burned to the ground. Reconstruct- here that the German Enigma Code was fi rst cracked by role in WWII, with specifi c emphasis on the Warsaw Upris- Invisible Exhibition”), which takes visitors into the world ed by Alfons Kropiwnicki the rebuilt structure served local science boffi ns. WWII signalled the end of the Palace ing. Curiously, the best part of the museum is actually free of the sightless. The roughly hour-long tours (which we as a home to the Agricultural Society, and in 1879 Jan and it was fl attened by retreating Nazi troops, with only Matejko’s epic painting The Battle of Grunwald was put the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier surviving the blasts. of charge: the outdoor collection of 20th century weap- recommend you book in advance to avoid waiting) are onry includes an array of tanks, missiles, aircraft and rocket helmed by guides who know of what they speak: all are on display to an appreciative Warsaw public. Extensive- But the story continues. In a rare act of foresight the city ly remodelled throughout the course of history one of of Warsaw has decided to cover the 201 million złoty launchers. Note that visitors can see the Transport Aircraft partially or completely blind themselves. Tours begin with Q its biggest revamps came at the beginning of the 20th cost of rebuilding Saski Palace. Budimex Dromex have AN26 or the Jak-40 for a 3zł each. C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie several stations that help get you acclimated to the chal- century when one wing was demolished to make way been awarded the tender to undertake the work and 3, tel. (+48) 22 629 52 71, www.muzeumwp.pl. Open lenges blind people face daily. You’ll get to tap on a Braille for the Hotel Bristol. When Poland regained its indepen- the façade, thanks to blueprints made available by the 10:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Last typewriter, test out gadgets that help the sightless do tasks entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 15/8zł, in the kitchen, and try to solve simple puzzles while wear- dence in 1918 it was commandeered to serve as home Central Military Archive, will look just like it did in 1939. N It’s not known what will occupy the space, with ideas Sun free. Tours with audioguide 20/13zł. ing a blindfold. Once you’re suffi ciently awed by your in- of the Prime Minister and his Council of Ministers. ranging from a Museum of Polish History to an institute ability to do even minor tasks the guide leads the group Amazingly it survived both the 1939 Siege of Warsaw dedicated to the thoughts of Pope John Paul II. Comple- UJAZDOWSKI CASTLE into the main portion of the exhibition: a pitch-black se- and the Warsaw Uprising fi ve years later, though that tion was originally set for 2010, though so far building (MUSEUM OF MODERN ART/CSW) (CENTRUM ries of rooms that force you to rely on your other senses did little to stop the authorities employing Antoni Brus- work has not entirely gone to plan. Although sappers SZTUKI WSPÓŁCZESNEJ ZAMEK UJAZDOWSKI) to get by (we’re not kidding about the darkness level; be che and Antoni Jawornicki to give it a further facelift. It failed to fi nd any undetonated devices, builders have Completed in a baroque style in 1730, Ujazdowski was prepared). You’ll visit an art gallery, a bar and take a walk saw more momentous events in 1955, this time when since come across over 10,000 rare archaeological fi nds gutted by fi re during WWII. Though the original walls and ‘outside’ while the guides ask questions about what you’re the Warsaw Pact – the Soviet Union’s answer to NATO including baroque sculptures, secret tunnels, ancient foundations remained structurally sound the communist encountering - you’ll be listening for the swoosh of cars – was ratifi ed within its walls. Since 1994 it has served wells, German helmets and wine glasses bearing August authorities decided to tear down the shell of the building before crossing the street, or feeling a sculpture to discern as the offi cial home of the Polish president, which is III’s monogram. The one problem being that no provi- with the intention of building a military theatre on the site. what kind of art it is. If you bring along change the guide exactly why you’ll fi nd streams of limos heading in and sion was made for discoveries of this scale, meaning that Common sense prevailed and the 1970s saw Ujazdowski will even serve you a drink in the completely dark bar. An out, and square jawed soldiers pointing their weapons many of the treasures recovered have since corroded af- rebuilt following its original style. Used as a military hos- eye-opening experience that will have you thinking heav- at anyone who strays too close. Interestingly enough, ter being incorrectly stored. For the time being work ap- pital in the years leading up to the war, it now has three ily about what you take for granted.QA-4, Al. Jerozolim- however, is the fact that current president Bronisław pears to have stopped completely, with even the fences large exhibition halls dedicated to showcasing the very skie 123a, tel. (+48) 504 32 44 44, www.niewidzialna.pl. Komorowski does not live there; instead he has cho- taken down - when it’ll resume is anyone’s guess, though sen to reside at Belvedere Palace next to Łazienki Park. best of contemporary art; fi nd a wild mix of the good, the Open 10:00 - 20:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Q we could be in for a bit of a wait. bad and the ugly, featuring the work of Poland’s leading Admission 24-28/19-25zł, family ticket 69zł. Tickets re- C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 46/48. contemporary artists. Worthy and undoubtedly necessary, served online cost 3 zł less per ticket. N

82 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 83 Old Town Old Town row street running at a 90 degree angle, Wąski Dunaj, was the town’s Jewish Quarter during the Middle Ages. Directly ROYAL CASTLE behind the wall, and onto ul. Podwale (B-2), you’ll fi nd one of Warsaw’s most poignant landmarks - The Monument to the Little Insurgent - depicting a young lad weighed down by a machine gun and over-sized helmet. The monument honours the memory of the child soldiers who fought and died during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. Follow Podwale along to the Barbakan (B-1). Crown- ing the set of defensive walls which once protected the city, this fearsome rotund structure dates from 1548. Today it serves as a bridge between the Old and New Town, and is also the hangout of choice for teenage drinkers and ‘artists’ selling their wares. During the summer months you can visit the interior, though it’s best avoided if you have an aversion to confi ned spaces. The moat around the area More a palace than a castle, this building is the pride of is another relatively recent addition. The original ditch was Warsaw, reconstructed from a pile of rubble at incred- fi lled in back in the 18th century and the walls were incor- ible cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the furni- porated into the dense tangle of new townhouses. Frag- ture was donated by now deceased commie buddies ments of these forgotten defences were unearthed in 1937 such as the GDR and USSR, and much of the money for and a decade later, with Warsaw in ruins, architects took the rebuilding came from generous donations from exiled decision to restore the ancient walls. Poles. Dating back to the 14th century, the castle has Photo byyj Jacek Kaddaj At this point you’ll fi nd your nose pointing straight been the residence of Polish kings, then of the presi- down ul. Nowomiejska (B-1). Continue forward to reach dent and then the seat of parliament. The prescribed A labyrinth of winding cobblestone streets, ornate tenement mund rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an oc- the beautiful Old Town Square (Rynek, B-1/2). Measuring tour will take you through the Kings’ apartments and facades and picturesque plazas with plenty of Olde World currence that was fi rst reported during the 1794 Kościuszko 90 by 73 metres this square is Warsaw’s defi ning highlight, chambers, heavily adorned with paintings of famous charm, it’s easy to understand why the Old Town is Warsaw’s Uprising and again during WWII. With the Warsaw Uprising lined with richly decorated burgher houses. During the Polish moments. Maps on the wall refl ect Poland’s top tourist area. Entirely rebuilt after the Warsaw Uprising of in full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell 15th century the Old Town Square was home to Warsaw’s greatest days, when it stretched from the Baltic to the 1944, the Old Town is also symbolic of Warsaw’s rise from the and came crashing down. Amazingly Sigismund survived, Town Hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never Black Sea. The apartments of Józef Poniatowski have ruins of WWII and of Varsovians’ pride in their city. losing only his sword, and he was returned to his new perch replaced. Today you’ll fi nd a couple of water pumps dat- recently been opened to the public, though unfortu- When US General Dwight Eisenhower visited Warsaw in 1949. The remains of the original column can be seen ing from the 19th century, as well as Warsaw’s best loved nately none of the accompany descriptions are in Eng- after the war he was moved to comment, “I have seen many nearby at the side of the Royal Castle. monument - Syrenka. Cast in 1855 this mermaid’s form lish. The rooms are still a worthwhile part of the tour, towns destroyed, but nowhere have I been faced with such It’s hard to believe that at the end of 1944 all before you graces every bus, tram and coat of arms you’ll fi nd in the if for no other reason than to see the Prince’s surpris- destruction.” Buried beneath twenty million cubic metres was just rubble, but that’s exactly what it was. Evidence of capital. While the Old Town Square presents no shortage of ingly cerulean bedroom and grand collection of paint- of rubble the city resembled a shattered shell; over half the this can be viewed on ul. Zapiecek (B-2) where black and ways to part tourists from their cash, one place that is worth ings. Some of the halls are reputed to be intermittently population had been killed, and 85% of the city razed to the white photographs illustrate the devastation. The Old Town’s popping into is U Fukiera at number 27. The culinary tradi- haunted by a ‘white lady.’ According to legend her ap- ground. The Old Town had been hit with particular Nazi effi - subsequent inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List in tion here dates from 1810 when the Fukier family turned pearance signals imminent disaster. The nearby cha- ciency, and by the time the Red Army rolled across the river it 1980 is also remembered in some cobblestone pavers here. this place into Warsaw’s top winery. Today the restaurant pel boasts an urn containing the heart of Polish hero was little more than a smouldering wasteland. To their credit Resisting the draw of the market square for the time being, is in the hands of the famed Gessler family, and their guest and freedom fi ghter Tadeusz Koścuiszko. Next on the the Capital Reconstruction Bureau chose to rebuild the his- instead head down ul. Piwna (B-2) - aptly named ‘Beer list reads as something of a Who’s Who of stage and screen. tour, the Houses of Parliament. Last but not least, the toric centre, a painstaking process that would last until 1962. Street’ after the 15th century breweries that once operated Close by is the Historical Museum of Warsaw (Rynek opulent Great Assembly Hall has so much gold stuck Using pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs the Old here - for a glimpse of St. Martin’s Church at ul. Piwna 9/11. Starego Miasta 28-42, B-1). to the walls it’s hard to resist the temptation to scratch Town was carefully rebuilt, though only at the considerable Flattened during the war, the only fragment to survive was Finally, conclude your epic walking tour by swerving some off - just a bit, they wouldn’t notice. Behave or expense of Poland’s ‘recovered territories.’ Although now only a half-burned fi gure of Jesus. During the period of Martial onto ul. Kanonia (B-2). Once a graveyard, this little square get accosted by vigilant wardens and enjoy the views half a century old, Warsaw’s historic quarter is an architectural Law, Solidarity supporters would convene here to worship features a cracked cathedral bell (that promises good luck if across the river to the Praga district instead. For those miracle, and a stunning tribute to the city’s will to survive. and hold secret meetings. As with the rest of the Old Town, you touch the top and circle it) as well as one of the world’s interested in the Castle’s reconstruction the basement the real beauty of ul. Piwna lies in the details - check out most narrow houses at number 20/22 (Etgar Keret’s House exhibition “From Destruction to Reconstruction” details the elaborate paintings and gargoyles that peer from the at ul. Chłodna 22/ul. Żelazna 74 actually holds the claim for the building’s resurrection after World War II rendered WHAT TO SEE facades, and don’t miss the portal at number 6. world’s most narrow). Close by note the covered walkway the place a pile of rubble. Note that this exhibition is Most visits to the Old Town begin on Plac Zamkowy (B- Stay on the left fl ank of the Old Town to check out the linking the Cathedral to the Royal Castle. This was built after free, so those not willing to spring for a ticket for the 2) under King Sigismund’s Column. There isn’t a more area around ul. Piekarska and ul. Rycerska (B-2), once a failed assassination attempt on Sigismund III. The King es- entire tour can still visit this section of the Castle.QB-2, popular meeting place in the city, and not a minute of the home to a small square used for executions. Nicknamed caped unharmed, but the hapless hitman, Michał Piekarski, Pl. Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek- day when the steps to the statue aren’t besieged by dating ‘Piekarka,’ this is where witches and other ne’er do wells were found himself skinned alive, stretched by four horses and krolewski.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thur 10:00 - 20:00. couples, school kids and skateboarders. Erected in 1644 by burned at the stake, hung, or beheaded. Marking the end of then chopped into pieces with an axe! Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour Sigismund’s son, Władysław IV, the twenty-two metre col- Piekarska, just outside the old city walls, check out the sword You yourself are now within horse-stretching dis- before closing. Admission 22/15zł, family ticket umn was designed by Italian architects Augustyn Locci and waving fi gure of Jan Kiliński - a legendary Polish patriot and tance of your starting point by Sigismund’s Column. 14zł per person. Sun free. Poniatowski apartments Constantino Tencalla, and the fi gure of Sigismund ranks as hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. Tadeusz Kościuszko Point your fatigued fi gure in the direction of Krakowskie 14/7zl, family ticket 6zl per person. Sun free. Guides Poland’s second oldest monument - the oldest being the himself once lived nearby at Szeroki Dunaj 5; this wide street Przedmieście and prepare yourself to take the path of in English 110zł, audioguides 17/12zł. YU Neptune Fountain in Gdańsk. Local legend asserts that Sigis- was formerly home to Warsaw’s fi sh market, while the nar- Kings along The Royal Route. Cue fanfare!

84 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 85 The Royal Route The best Baltic amber in Warsaw Warsaw’s famed ‘Royal Route’ links the city’s three Royal res- to celebrate the coronation of Stanislaw II August Ponia- idences, starting from the Royal Castle on Plac Zamkowy, towski in 1789, when the astounding sum of over two mil- via Łazienki Park’s Palace on the Island, en route to Wilanów lion złoty was spent entertaining 4,000 guests. Some will Palace in the district of the same name. Covering 11km in say it was money well spent; Poniatowski proved to be one length, this main artery through the city takes in a great of Poland’s fi nest monarchs and the constitution of May 3, range of Warsaw’s historic buildings, parks, churches and 1791, signed on these very grounds, is recognised as Eu- monuments, making a trek down the ‘path of the Kings’ a rope’s fi rst. When Poland regained independence in 1918 ‘must-do’ part of any visit to the city. The heart of the route, the reconstructed building was commandeered to serve as along Krakowskie Przedmieście and Nowy Świat, will also home to the Polish Prime Minister and his Council of Min- lead you past, or more likely into, a grand selection of hos- isters. It saw more momentous events in 1955, this time telries, restaurants and shops. Granted, a few of the further when the Warsaw Pact - the Soviet Union’s answer to NATO out parts of the route may not be anything to write home - was ratifi ed within its walls. In 1989 round table talks about, but it really is worth making the eff ort in order to vis- between the communists and the opposition were held it the beautiful Wilanów Palace, gardens and parkland. We here, paving the way for political freedom, and in 1994 it let you know what not to miss in our walking tour below. was appointed as the offi cial home of the Polish President - though current president Bronisław Komorowski has opted KRAKOWSKIE PRZEDMIEŚCIE to reside at the Belvedere Palace (ul. Belwederska 56, G-5). Krakowskie Przedmieście is easily one of Poland’s most pres- The Prez obviously needs classy neighbours, so next door tigious and well-known streets. It stretches from the Royal you’ll fi nd the elegant and recently overhauled Bristol Castle (Pl. Zamkowy 4, B-2) in the Old Town until it blends Hotel (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, C-2). A brass into ul. Nowy Świat. With the Royal Castle and Old Town cov- plaque boasts of its many famous guests: Picasso, Nixon ered extensively elsewhere in the guide (see Sightseeing), we and Dietrich, to name but a few. Across the street, the begin our stroll from the sabre-rattling King Sigismund’s current building of the Ministry of Culture and Art (ul. Kra- Column just outside the castle. This popular meeting point kowskie Przedmieście 15) is also home to its own historical sees its steps visited by buskers, tourists and white-gowned factoid - it was here that Napoleon met his paramour Marie brides in search of memorable snaps. From this point head Walewska at a ball held in his honour. to St. Anne’s Church (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 68, B-2), a neo-classical eff ort that survived the war but came within Why all the young, fresh faced kids? Well, you’re in War- a whisker of collapse when work on the W-Z street tunnel in saw University-land. The Uni’s main campus lies behind 1949 caused several landslides; it took a team of 400 workers the grand gateway at ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 26/28 two weeks to shore the foundations and stabilise the soil, but (C-2). Dating from the 17th century the main building, Modern and traditional the real hero of the hour was Romauld Cebertowicz - a pro- known as ‘Villa Regia,’ was remodelled and renovated sev- fessor who invented a way of solidifying the soil via the use eral times before Warsaw U was established here in 1819. of electrical currents. The interior of St. Anne’s is fi ne, but the The uni had a tough time under Russian rule; closed in re- jewellery real reason for visiting is the viewing platform, which off ers taliation for the 1830-31 Uprising the university continued impressive views of the Old Town and a distant shot of the to operate underground, though by 1859 the Tsar calmed with red and white National Stadium. down enough to rubber stamp the creation of a School of amber Medicine. Today, with some 57,000 students on the roll call, natural A short stroll will take you to the Adam Mickiewicz monu- the university stands out as the largest and arguably best DESIGNERS QUALITY ment (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 5, B-2). This statue was in Poland. Notable alumni include former Israeli premier erected in 1898 - the centenary of the birth of Poland’s best- Yitzhak Shamir, writer Witold Gombrowicz, award-winning loved bard. Unveiled at a time of Imperial Russian repression hack Ryszard Kapuściński, the late president Lech Kaczyński the very creation of his likeness was regarded as something and poet Julian Tuwim. of a bombshell, and over 12,000 patriotic Poles turned up to cheer the ribbon cutting. Standing just behind Mr. Mickiewicz is a 1784 pink building recognisable for having a chunk missing from its facade, and the 17th century Carmelite Church next door (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 52/54, B-2) is one of the best examples of the classical style to be found in Poland.

Stop for photos by the stone lions and stern looking guards outside the Presidential Palace (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 46/48, C-2). Construction on the palace Silverline began in 1643 at the behest of Stanisław Koniecpolski, Rynek Starego Miasta 9/11/13, Warsaw although he died before it was completed. It passed into the hands of various aristocratic families and in the 18th OPENING HOURS: century it became the famed venue for lavish society ban- Mo-Fri 10-19 t Sat-Su: 10-17 quets - none being more extravagant than the party held King Sigismund’s Column Photo by Stanisław Kłosin

facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 87 The Royal Route Palace of Culture & Science the Russian governor in 1863. Infuriated Cossack troops re- Built using an estimated 40 million bricks and housing 3,288 acted by launching a piano once tickled by Chopin out the rooms the Palace’s purpose was to serve as not just party window, though nowadays the drama is limited to dancing headquarters but also ‘the people’s castle’, with invitations to in the basement club or dining on the elegant ground fl oor. the annual New Year’s Eve Ball issued to the best workers in socialist Poland. Regardless of this the building became an Back onto Nowy Świat you should now be in sight of our object of hatred and the palace was seen as no more than city’s famous plastic palm tree which stands on the de a symbol of Russian hegemony. Viewed from a distance – Gaulle roundabout at the intersection of Al. Jerozolimskie apparently it can be spotted from 30km away – the palace and Nowy Świat. Created by artist Joanna Rajkowska, the appears a faceless monolith. Viewed closely several intricate palm links the fauna of the city of Jerusalem with its name- details appear in focus. Under Stalin’s orders architects trav- sake avenue ‘Jerozolimskie’ in Warsaw. Before reaching the elled around Poland’s key cultural sights, from Wawel to palm tree, however, one must stop off at an oasis, and Zamość, observing Polish architectural traditions, hence the ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście there is no place better than the legendary rat-like maze numerous crenulations, courtyards and motifs. of Pawilony (The Pavilions) located behind the gates at Once inside the ground fl oor becomes a maze of halls and Head across the street to visit the Church of the Holy Cross number 22. Klaps (ul. Nowy Świat 22/28, Pavilion 12a, C-4) corridors, with chambers named after Eastern icons – Yuri (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, C-3). This is the famed fi nal is a can’t-miss experience if you like your décor to include a Gagarin, Marie Skłodowska-Curie (a famous communist resting place of Fryderyk Chopin’s heart, which was sealed wall of plastic boobs and beer taps crowned with vibrators! sympathiser), etc. Brass chandeliers hang over clacking in an urn at his own request and placed behind a tablet fea- parquet fl ooring, secret lifts lie hidden around and allegori- turing his likeness, becoming a place of pilgrimage for his Before crossing the busy roundabout keep your eyes peeled cal socialist reliefs take inspiration from ancient mythology legions of fans. Finish your Krakowskie Przedmieście wan- for a poignant Socialist Realist mural of a girl holding a pis- – it’s easy to imagine Bond snooping around planting listen- der with a visit to the Nicolaus Copernicus monument, tol - one of the earliest tributes to the Warsaw Uprising. Once ing devices. The crowning glory of the ground fl oor is the located opposite the church, appropriately seated in front safely across de Gaulle roundabout, you will be greeted by a Sala Kongresowa, a decadent red theatre space apparently of the Polish Academy of Sciences (ul. Nowy Świat 72, C-3). monument to the great General himself. Behind him stands inspired by La Scala. Holding 2,880 its original use was to host The monument was unveiled in 1830 and has seen plenty the hulking edifi ce of the former Communist HQ at Nowy party conferences, though through the years it became bet- of action, particularly during WWII when the Nazis added Świat 6 (C-4). Completed in 1948, rumours that it was secretly ter known as a concert venue – hosting acts as diverse as the a bronze plaque suggesting the astronomer was actually connected by a tunnel to the Palace of Culture appear unsub- Rolling Stones in 1967 and the Chippendales in 2006. German. In 1942 a brave boy scout removed the plaque, stantiated, but you have to love the irony that it briefl y served Given that the building boasts over 3,300 rooms there is causing the Nazis to remove the monument and bomb as home to the stock exchange; today the building hosts nu- not a lot to see, unless you’re into conference facilities, so several others as retribution. Fortunately Copernicus was merous offi ces, a Ferrari dealership and Cuda na Kiju - one of visitors are best directed to the terrace on the 30th fl oor. To recovered and restored following the war. The controversial Warsaw’s best real ale multi-tap bars. Scurry along this fairly get there you’ll need to buy a ticket, after which you’ll be plaque can now be seen in the Historical Museum of War- uninspiring stretch of Nowy Swiat to Pl. Trzech Krzyży (C-4), Palace of Culture and Science shepherded into an old-style lift complete with a lovely lift saw (Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, B-1).QB-2, C-3. home to the beautiful 19th century classical style St. Alex- attendant who has probably been doing the job since the ander’s Church (ul. Książęca 21, C-4). The surrounding area is PALACE OF CULTURE AND SCIENCE building opened.QB-4, Pl. Defi lad 1, tel. (+48) 22 656 76 home to some of Warsaw’s top boutiques, including the likes (PAŁAC KULTURY I NAUKI) 00, www.pkin.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission for the NOWY ŚWIAT of Burberry, Zegna and Escada.QC-3/4. For all the aggressive westernisation that has overcome viewing level is 18/12zł. Group ticket for more than 10 Nip across the ul. Świętokrzyska intersection and Krakowskie Warsaw, the four decades of communism have yet to be people 10zł per person. YN Przedmieście suddenly becomes the New World! The story completely erased from the face of Warsaw.. You couldn’t of ul. Nowy Świat (New World Street) dates back to medieval FURTHER ON miss this hulking giant of a landmark if you tried. MUSEUM OF TECHNOLOGY times when it was traversed by Kings on their way between From Plac Trzech Krzyży (C-4), Warsaw’s ‘royal route’ Originally commissioned by Stalin as a ‘gift from the Soviet (MUZEUM TECHNIKI) Warsaw and Kraków, with the fi rst settlements appearing in continues down the Embassy-land of Aleje Ujazdowsk- people’ the 231 metre structure actually takes its inspiration A vast collection dedicated to the history of everything the area during the 17th century. Levelled during WWII, the ie past the Ujazdowskie and Łazienki Parks (G-4), down from the capitalist world, namely the Empire State Building, technological inside the equally enormous Palace of Cul- street found itself rebuilt in rather uniform neo-classical style, ul. Belwederska (G-5), ul. Sobieskiego (H-6) and Aleja but, believe it or not, was specifi cally designed to include ture & Science, this museum is only missing a map. Truly as returning it to its predominantly Art Nouveau pre-war Wilanowska to ultimately end at Wilanów Palace - the infl uences from all of Poland’s architectural styles. Stalin huge, and clearly laid out by somebody with a sadistic style was simply unfeasible. Nowy Świat, along with its little 17th century private residence of King Jan III Sobieski. had sent a secret delegation to New York to learn both sense of humour, the scores of rooms are scattered willy off -shoot streets, has long been seen as one of THE places to While a walking tour of the remaining 10km isn’t re- about the building and American construction methods, nilly and organised with what appears to be a contemptu- be seen and is home to numerous shops, bars and eateries. alistic, or especially rewarding, Łazienki and Wilanów though the outbreak of WWII meant that it wasn’t until ous disregard for reason and logic. Highlights include a cav- Expect a myriad of modern and traditional restaurants and are both required visits for getting a broader sense of 1952 that his architects were able to commence putting alcade of impossible-looking motorbikes and aeroplanes, coff ee shops, including the popular Bierhalle microbrew- Warsaw’s history and former glory as the grand capital their knowledge into practice. Lev Rudynev, the brains be- a room packed with 19th century musical boxes, historical ery which makes an ideal pitstop at ul. Nowy Świat 64 (C-3), of a vast and wealthy commonwealth stretching from hind the equally monstrous Lomonosov University in Mos- cars like a 1936 Lux-Sport limousine chassis and a small ex- before shoving off to snap a pic of the former home of cult the Baltic to the Black Sea. We detail both destinations cow, was put in charge of the design and set about making hibition celebrating space exploration that could do with writer and Anglophile Joseph Conrad at number 45. If it’s extensively further on in our Sightseeing section, and the building into one of the most notorious examples of some serious updating. Decorated with lace curtains and too early in the day for a hefty German style beer, drop into though both could occupy the better part of a day on Socialist Realist architecture in the world. Over 5,000 work- staff ed by an army of sinister-looking old ladies, this mu- the renowned Café Blikle (ul. Nowy Świat 33, C-3), famous their own, you can also easily continue your tour from ers were ferried in from the Soviet states and housed in a seum guarantees that you won’t learn a thing no matter for once serving doughnuts to a young and sweet-toothed purpose-built village in Jelonki, west Warsaw, where they how hard you try, but it’s a strangely rewarding experience the bus stop at the southern end of Pl. Trzy Krzyży. To Q Charles de Gaulle. Just across the street you will fi nd super get to Łazienki Park, simply hop on bus numbers were eff ectively cut off from the outside world. Working that really has to be seen to be believed. B-4, Pl. Defi - trendy ul. Foksal (C-3) for more gastronomic and drinking 116, 166 or 180 and get off two stops later at around the clock, it took them just three years to complete lad 1, tel. (+48) 22 656 67 47, www.mtip.pl. Open 09:00 opportunities; follow it to its end to see Zamoyski Palace ‘Łazienki Królewskie.’ For Wilanów, take bus 116, the Palace. In all 16 died during the construction, though - 17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission (ul. Foksal 1/2/4), a neo-renaissance pearl designed by Mar- 180 or E-2 and get off at ‘Wilanów’ 25mins later. despite the Olympian eff orts of the labourers Stalin never 14/8zł. Family ticket (up to 5 people) 30zł. Guided tours coni and the scene of a botched assassination attempt on lived to see his pet project completed. in English - additional 50zł per group.

88 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 89 Praga Praga BUILDINGS STS. MICHAEL & FLORIAN CATHEDRAL GETTING TO PRAGA Although in a sorry state of disrepair, much of Praga sur- This giant gothic cathedral vived the war. Nowadays, to walk around the bullet-scarred viewable from across the By Public Transport: tenement houses found by the riverside is to immerse Vistula in Warsaw proper was From Centralna the 160 bus will take you across the yourself in pre-war Praga. The oldest surviving residential built in reaction to the build- river and drop you at the Park Praski stop, a great place building in the district can be found on (H-1) ul. Targowa ing of an Orthodox Church to begin your tour of Praga (you can nod at the bears 50/52. Built in 1819, it once housed a Jewish Synagogue and a number of other struc- as you disembark). If you’re in the Old Town simply walk and bears a Hebrew inscription dating from 1934. Note that tures on the Tsar’s orders in the down the steps near the Royal Castle to Al. Solidarnosci at press time the buildings were covered with a protective latter half of the 19th century. and the Stare Miasto tram stop and every tram heading sheet due to impending renovations. A certain Pole by the name over the river (23, 26) stops at Park Praski as well. These of Father Ignacy Dutkiewicz same trams will return you to the Stare Miasto as well. KOŚCIUSZKOWCÓW MONUMENT decided to hit back with the (POMNIK KOŚCIUSZKOWCÓW) construction of a huge new By taxi: A formidable monument erected in 1985 to act as a memo- Michał Dżurak/Wikipedia/CC Catholic church, which was You can also take a taxi which should cost around rial for those who fought in the First Polish Infantry Division. BY-SA 3.0 consecrated in 1901. Unsur- 20-30zł and should take you from the centre area to Formed in Russia, the division attempted to cross the Wisła riv- prisingly this vast Gothic beast was blown to pieces by the Gritty. Bo-ho. Up-and-coming. There are a lot of terms be- Ząbkowska in less than 20 minutes. Please remember er several times without success, in a bid to support the 1944 Germans in September 1944 and is now almost exclusively ing tossed around to describe Praga, the eastern district that the price and time depends on the traffi c, so your Uprising.QG-1, ul. Wybrzeże Szczecińskie, Near Port Praski. the work of ongoing reconstruction between 1947 and of Warsaw that hugs the Vistula River, and they’re all fairly journey may be longer during rush hours. 1970. Featuring a pair of steel-tipped 75-metre steeples, the apt. Praga has long been regarded as off -limits to West- ORTHODOX CHURCH OF ST. MARY MAGDALENE church, which includes a photograph of what remained of it ern visitors thanks to its criminal underclass and imposing astated as Warsaw proper (which isn’t really saying much if Constructed between 1867 and 1869 to a design by Mikołaj after the Nazis dynamited it on the left wall as you enter, has tower blocks, but a revival of sorts now makes this section you’ve seen the condition Warsaw was left in). The Russians, Syczew, St. Mary Magdalene’s was originally built for the a rather plain interior though the vaulted ceilings are well of town worthy of emphasising - especially if you prefer to again, arrived in Praga in July 1944 and stopped at the Vis- large congregation of Russians living around Jagiellońska as worth a look at if you’re in the area.QG-1, ul. Floriańska 3, see the city’s artsy underbelly and get away from the well- tula, famously leaving the Polish Home Army dangling dur- well as people arriving from the East at the nearby Wileńska tel. (+48) 22 619 09 60, www.katedra-fl oriana.home.pl/ trodden tourist path in Old Town. The area is still at least ing the Warsaw Uprising. train station. Now belonging to the independent Polish cms/. Open by prior arrangement. fi ve years away from being hipster-soaked Brooklyn or Autocephaly Orthodox Church, this stunning, fi ve-domed boho Montmartre, but that’s exactly why now is the time Today working-class Praga is the standard-bearer for cool, building features a breathtaking golden interior and some ZĄBKOWSKA to go: a visit will mean you can say you saw the evolution especially among those who fi nd the tourist-heavy Old unusually cheerful abstract designs. One of only two Or- Nowhere is Praga’s revival better illustrated than ulica in progress. Town too Disneyfi ed and the sterile clubs of Warsaw proper thodox churches to survive a demolition campaign in the Ząbkowska, the natural gravitational point for all the Boho as distasteful. Folks here prefer their bars dark and their fun 1920s, it’s easily the best-smelling church in Praga thanks to and artistic types who have recently materialized to up- In practice and geographically Praga has always been set improvised, and visitors can easily spend a day checking the heavy burning of rich incense.QG-1, Al. Solidarności grade the district. Originally lined with timber frame houses, apart from Warsaw proper. Until 1791 the district was its out the sights and an evening enjoying the often impres- 52, tel. (+48) 22 619 84 67. Open 11:00 - 15:00, Sun 12:00 Ząbkowska experienced a fi erce blaze in 1868 that led to own separate town and the inability to build a permanent sive beer selection. - 16:00; Sat open during mass only. wooden lodgings being replaced with tall tenements, all but bridge between Praga and Warsaw until the mid-18th cen- one surviving WWII. Post-war neglect hit the street hard, with tury surely proved a factor in the separatism (ferries in the AGNIESZKA OSIECKA MONUMENT RÓŻYCKI BAZAAR Ząbkowska allowed to fall into such disrepair that plans for summer and a stroll across the iced-over Vistula in the win- Agnieszka Osiecka (1936 - 1997) was a Polish poet and jour- Once regarded as Warsaw’s premier bazaar, the rambling wholesale demolition were seriously considered. However ter were the main option for transit in the pre-bridge days). nalist, and the author of over 2,000 songs, many of which Bazar Różyckiego has seen its popularity wane since 1989. it survived, and today restoration work has seen many of Finally in 1791 King Stanislaw August Poniatowski attached were turned into pop hits. She’s also known for a particularly Black market trade once thrived under Nazi and communist buildings returned to their former glory, streets repaved and the district offi cially to Warsaw, dissolving it of its indepen- grisly connection to the Swinging Sixties; her fi rst marriage governments, but nowadays the historic market (it began in galleries opened. For some the very name Ząbkowska is syn- dence (at least on paper). ended in tragedy when her husband, Wojciech Frykowski, 1901) is a ghostly image of its former self. Once considered the onymous with lively bars fi lled with student revolutionaries. became one of those slain by Charles Manson’s family of place for cardigans, fi rearms and spurious goods, it’s now a Praga wasn’t given much time to enjoy its new status as weirdos in what would turn out to be one of the crimes mildly depressing look into working class Warsaw life. Visitors ZOO part of Warsaw thanks to the The Battle of Praga in 1794, of the century. The statue is located in Praga Południe, a could easily outfi t an entire polyester wedding thanks to the If the bears piqued your interest in animals then head to which saw an aggressive invasion by the Russian army. more modern section of Praga (note the surrounding em- heaps of vendors selling cheap wedding dresses, tacky kiddie the nearby Warsaw Zoo, which was opened in 1928 and Following the quick but devastating battle the Russians bassies) than Stara Praga. To round out your visit check out tuxes and chintzy mother-of-the-bride gowns.QH-1, ul. Tar- covers an area of 40 hectares. More than 5,000 species call burned the entire district and massacred the 20,000 Poles Osiecka’s favourite café, Maska, which stands around the gowa 54, tel. (+48) 22 619 44 06, www.bazarrozyckiego.pl. it home and that includes all the biggies you’d expect: lions, living there. During World War II Praga wasn’t quite as dev- corner from her monument.QH-2, ul. Francuska (corner Open 07:00 - 17:00, Sat 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. gorillas, giraff es and elephants to name a few. As with every of ul. Obrońców). major Warsaw landmark, the zoo has plenty of war stories. It was bombed at the beginning of the confl ict and by 1945 BEARS TOURIST INFORMATION all the animals had either been killed, deported to the Third Strangely enough, bears have been living on the con- Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo direc- crete island in Praski Park since 1949; over 400 have been PRAGA TOURIST INFORMATION tor, Jan Żabiński, became something of a hero; wounded reared here before being packed off to zoos, safari parks (PRASKA INFORMACJA TURYSTYCZNA) during the 1944 Uprising, Żabiński helped save countless and circuses around the globe. Although the bears look Info on the local area and guided tours in English and lives by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the grounds of rather sleepy they can still pack a punch. Several years Polish, as well as an application for smartphones that the zoo. The zoo offi cially re-opened in 1949.QC-1, ul. Ra- ago a drunken idiot was savaged after jumping into the off ers a tour of Praga in English.QH-1, ul. Ząbkowska tuszowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41, www.zoo.waw.pl. enclosure. The three current well-rested residents are 27/31, tel. (+48) 22 670 01 56, www.totu.travel.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00; Sat,Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Last entrance called Tatra, Mała and Sabina.QC-1, Praski Park (from al. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 1 hour before closing. Admission 20/15zł. Children un- Solidarności), tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41. der 3 years free.

90 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 91 Copernicus Science Centre Copernicus Science Centre GETTING IN

COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE (CENTRUM NAUKI KOPERNIK) QG-2, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.kopernik.org.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. From September open 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Note that the Planetarium has diff erent opening hours. Open 09:30 - 21:00; Fri, Sat 08:30 - 21:30. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Ad- Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre mission 25/16zł, family ticket 66zł. (2adults+2children). Use of the labs, which are only available to individuals While the world’s attention was drawn towards the highly on the weekends, costs an additional 9zł. Note that you Roots of Civilisation, Bzzz! (for preschool children) and must buy a separate ticket for the Planetarium. Admis- VISITING TODAY visible, round-the-clock construction of Warsaw’s amazing Y RE:generation (for young adults) on the ground fl oor, and new stadium on the right bank of the Wisła, work was also sion 18-23zł/13-18zł, family ticket 49-64zł. Arriving at the main doors at the north end of the build- Humans and the Environment, LightZone and On the Move being carried out across the water on a building that has ing, you will be met by the centre’s very own Robothespian. located upstairs. Each area demonstrates a range of phe- since outshined the stadium now that the Euro 2012 hoop- deeply religious country. In that sense, giving t he centre A fully programmable humanoid robot, the Robothespian nomenon by way of experiments, button pressing, quizzes la has died down. Built on time and on budget (well, just the name of the man who did so much to end the church’s was developed in Britain by the Eden Project in Cornwall. and in some cases physical exertion with the aim of helping about), the Copernicus Science Centre (CSC) - which stands monopoly of education in the fi rst place is little short of a He speaks, interacts, mimics and performs, and visitors you to discover the secrets of the world around us. almost directly opposite the stadium along the river - has masterstroke. can prompt him to make a number of sounds, speech and established itself as one of Warsaw’s top tourist attractions. Not that Copernicus did it all his own way; in the aftermath movements by the adjacent control panel. This will keep the Additional hands-on activities geared especially towards of the tragic death of Polish President Lech Kaczynski in kids busy while you queue at the central ticket desk where teens can be found in the Re: generation Zone, where April 2010 the president’s political party, PiS (Law & Justice), you will be given a set of credit card-style entrance passes. visitors over 14 can experiment with psychology, sociol- GETTING THERE lobbied heavily to have the CSC renamed for him. The re- You should keep hold of these as not only do they allow ogy, economics or biotechnology through 80 multimedia The centre can be found in the shadow of the Świętokrzyski quest was politely, respectfully, refused. you to enter and exit the building throughout the day, but exhibits – we swear we’ve never seen teens more eff usive Bridge on the banks of the Wisła River. A journey to the CSC Given the stunning, futuristic sight - all glass and steel - that they will also become your ID card as you move through the and excited as they tried to identify a monkey’s emotions, from the centre of Warsaw should take around 10 minutes. greets visitors at the €93 million (half of which came from exhibitions, many of which allow you to record your results or fi nish lyrics to popular songs. There’s also four interactive Buses 105, 118 and 127 will drop you at the Biblioteka Uni- the EU, half of which came from the Polish taxpayer) CSC (which are stored and then emailed to you afterwards). labs dealing with chemistry, biology, physics and robotics wersytecka stop, requiring a short walk around the corner today, it’s a little ironic that the building’s origins are slightly that off er supervised experiments for kids over 13 (instruc- to the unmissable building. Buses 102 and 162 will drop more humble. The idea of creating the centre fi rst took Passing through the barriers, the fi rst display you come to tions are in Polish however) and an outdoor Discovery Park you at the Pomnik Syreny stop with the CSC clearly in sight. shape at the informal Science Picnics - outdoor science, is a huge swinging ball. The ball swings backwards and for- fi lled with installations lining the Wisła. Alternatively visit the ‘About us’ section of the English lan- culture and art events aimed at the general public that wards, periodically knocking over mallets that strike a bell guage website www.kopernik.org.pl, where you can get di- have been held in Warsaw’s Rynek Nowego Miasta since as they fall. These bells are lined up around the swinging It’s easy to declare that the centre is well-worth a few rections by car, by bus, or by foot by typing in your address. 1997. The idea of the picnics (which were organised by Pol- ball in a circle and although the ball swings in a straight line hours of your time and will impress you with its design skie Radio, strangely enough) was to bring popular science backwards and forwards, the knocking over of the mallets and range of experiments. Factor in the main fl oor caf- to the masses through hands-on experiments. Each year, as proves that the earth is constantly, actually rotating. eteria and the packed Science Store (potentially the best INTRODUCTION the numbers of scientists, universities, schools and mem- spot for children’s gifts in Warsaw) and it’s a one-stop day A rare example of European Union funding being used bers of the general public taking part grew, it became clear Having admired this, the interactive exhibitions begin. First of fun. The staff is keen, very helpful and English-speaking; in a genuinely visionary way, the CSC is many things, not that there was an expanding interest in science in Warsaw, of all, register your card with your name and email address we saw many interacting happily with kids and helpfully least (in the words of Poland’s Education Minister shortly while the large numbers of foreign visitors who came to at one of the terminals so that you will be identifi ed as you controlling the chaos. If there is one gripe we have it would before the opening) an attempt to restate the case for the events suggested that there was an untapped market progress through the CSC. You currently have over 350 concern the Robotics show, which can be found inside the science and research in what can still be an intensely and in the region for hands-on scientifi c learning. Construction experiments to visit, spread over two fl oors and six areas: Roots of Civilisation section. The 20-minute show we saw of the CSC was the natural next step, though it took a num- told an embarrassingly bad story about a robot that wants ber of years to secure the site and funding. to become human in order to marry a princess, and used Given the ad hoc Science Picnic origins of the CSC, it is language that seemed slightly out of reach for young chil- no surprise that the museum (if we can call it that) was dren. The various accents can also be baffl ing (one robot opened in a slightly ad hoc, it-will-be-all-right-eventually sounds like a drunken Sean Connery) and the robots them- fashion. The opening show, Wielki Wybuch (The Big Bang), selves are like stiff mannequins that move back and forth directed by Peter Greenaway and Saskia Boddeke, was a on a small track. Completely skippable. little underwhelming (and at certain points quite bizarre), while visitors to the centre in the fi rst couple of weeks were Considering the size and scope of this operation, one mi- greeted by an annoyingly large number of ‘this exhibit is nor fl aw in an otherwise awe-inspiring complex is a feat temporarily out of order’ signs. Yet throughout 2011 as unseen in Warsaw. And if truth be told, it would have been the CSC rolled out sections of the museum to the public very hard to imagine such a potentially world-class visitor it quickly became clear that this is unquestionably the very attraction being built in this city just a few years ago. Yet best science centre in Europe, and today visitors can enjoy here it is, which ought to be worth an exhibit in and of itself Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre a fully completed attraction. Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre about how the impossible can become possible.

92 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 93 Łazienki Łazienki up games of cricket, softball, football or whatever else it is people get up to in parks in the western world, Łazienki takes a very stern ‘look but don’t touch’ attitude when it comes to its lawns. If you don’t believe us, try sitting on a Łazienki lawn and see what happens. That said, the park has recently added two zones where you’re allowed to have a picnic. Progress!QG-4, ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 00 28, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Open from dawn till dusk.

MUSEUM OF HUNTING AND HORSEMANSHIP (MUZEUM ŁOWIECTWA I JEŹDZIECTWA) North of the Palace on the Island, the Museum of Hunt- ing & Horsemanship is worth a quick visit.QH-4, ul. Szwoleżerów 9, tel. (+48) 22 522 66 30, www.muzeum. PALACE ON THE ISLAND (PAŁAC NA WYSPIE) warszawa.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. The Palace on the Island is Łazienki’s raison d’etre. The pal- Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. ace - completed in 1683 to designs by Tylman Gamerski Admission 3-8/2-5zł. Thu free. - was originally a bathhouse, converted into a residence in the late 1700s (after being bought by Stanisław August MYŚLEWICKI PALACE (PAŁAC MYŚLEWICKI) Poniatowski). The palace is built on an artifi cial island that Make sure you have time too for a guided tour of the mag- divides the lake into two parts, and is connected to the nifi cent, semi-circular and recently restored Myślewicki Pal- surrounding park by two colonnaded bridges. The façades ace. The residence of the king’s nephew, Józef Poniatowski, are unifi ed by giant Corinthian pilasters that link its two the palace is very much ‘as was’ complete with original fl oors and are crowned by a balustrade that bears statues murals, furniture and art.QH-4, ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) of mythological fi gures. The northern façade is relieved by 22 506 00 28, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Open 09:00 a striking central portico, while the southern façade’s deep - 18:00, Mon 11:00 - 18:00. Admission 6/4zł. Thu free. central recess lies behind a screen of Corinthian columns. Anyone who still thinks that Warsaw is a city of concrete up in 1958. During the summer impressive concerts take Guided tours in English 70zł per group. Y Today a museum, almost all of the palace can be visited and cement has clearly never been to the city’s lung, the place around the statue almost every Sunday at 12:00 and (though currently the fi rst fl oor is off limits), including the incomparable Łazienki Park (G-4). Quite simply, this glori- 16:00 (the last concert of the season is on September 28). main reception room, Solomon’s Hall, decorated in the ous, 17th century park, spread over 74 hectares, is one of Almost hidden in the trees a few metres from Chopin is the most extravagant of Baroque styles with a series of paint- the jewels in Poland’s crown, which might explain why half astonishing Temple of the Sibyl (closed to the public), an GETTING TO ŁAZIENKI ings depicting the History of Solomon. They were executed of Warsaw chooses to spend its summer Sundays here. Fear 1820s replica Greek Temple built entirely of wood. Look out Any number of buses stop in front of the park’s three for King Stanisław Augustus in 1791-93 by Marcello Bac- not though, for so big is Łazienki that it never gives the too for a gaggle of other little buildings here such as the main entrances, on Al. Ujazdowskie, including Nos. 116, ciarelli and depicted the monarch himself as the biblical impression of being crowded, and even on the busiest of Hermitage, the Egyptian Temple and the Water Tower. king. Many of the king’s personal rooms are also open to Q 166 and 180. From the city centre however perhaps the days you will always be able to fi nd a quiet, shady corner None are currently open to the public. G-4. easiest way of reaching Łazienki is to take a tram from the public, set in their original context. To get the best somewhere. out of the palace we recommend taking one of the excel- Centrum to Pl. Unii Lubelskiej, and walk 100 metres Q ŁAZIENKI PARK (PARK ŁAZIENKOWSKI) along Bagatela to the park’s southern entrance, in front lent guided tours (call ahead to book such a tour). G-4, BELVEDERE PALACE (BELWEDER) The name Łazienki means baths and is derived from the of the Belvedere Palace. Orientation around the park is ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 00 28, www.lazienki- Head next for the Belvedere Palace residence of the Pol- park’s centrepiece and best-known attraction, the Palace relatively easy given the prominent placement of maps krolewskie.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Mon 11:00 - 18:00, ish President from 1918 to 1995 (Presidents Aleksander on the Island. The palace was originally built in the 17th and signs - in Polish and English - in key locations. There Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 20/15zł and comes Kwaśniewski and Lech Kaczyński opting to live in the Presi- century as a private bathhouse for Stanisław Herakliusz is also a very good Łazienki complex map (again, in Pol- with headphones. Free on Thurs and daily from 17:00- dential Palace on ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście) this is once Lubomirski, owner of the adjacent Ujazdów Castle and 18:00; Fri, Sat 19:00 - 20:00. Guides 100zł per group up to ish and English) which can be picked up for free from Y again the Warsaw residence of the Polish president (now much of the surrounding land (and much of Poland, come the Palace on the Water or any of the museums in the 25 people. To arrange guide call (+48) 22 506 01 70. Bronisław Komorowski). Built in 1694 but thoroughly re- to mention it). The bathhouse was bought by the last king park. If you enter the park via any of the entrances on Al. modelled in 1818, the building is predictably off limits. For of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, in 1772 and con- Ujazdowskie, chances are you will end up, willingly or the best views of the palace and some outstanding photo verted into a private residence (and taking the name Palace not, via some surprisingly hilly paths set with tall trees, opportunities you should look at it from Al. Ujazdowskie: it on the Island). It was at this time that the grounds were for- at the vast artifi cial lake in the park’s centre, straddled is a wonder of Neo-Classical design, complete with tym- mally laid out as a private garden, most of the landscaping Q by the magnifi cent Palace on the Island. In doing so panium and oversized Corinthian columns. G-5, ul. Bel- being carried out to the designs of Karol Ludwig Agricola however, you risk missing out on a few treasures, so try wederska 56. and Karol Schultz. Today dotted with many palaces (big and to circumnavigate the park instead. small), summer houses, pavilions, mansions, cafes, restau- While you can buy tickets for each Łazienki attraction CHOPIN MONUMENT & TEMPLE OF SIBYL rants, lakes and theatres, Łazienki off ers much to see and to individually, you can also purchase a one-day ticket or (POMNIK CHOPINA I ŚWIĄTYNIA DIANY) make the best of it you should plan to spend a full day here. two-days combined ticket which off ers single-access On entering the park proper, make your fi rst port of call One word of warning however before you pack a picnic to a chunk of the attractions (Ujazdowski Castle, The the Chopin Monument, sculpted by Witold Szymanowski and the cricket set: Łazienki, for all its charms, is further evi- Museum of Hunting and Horsemanship and the Bo- and unveiled in 1926. It depicts Chopin sitting right here in dence of the fact that many Central Europeans have never tanical Garden are not among them). A one-day ticket Łazienki, next to a willow tree. The original sculpture was quite grasped the idea of what parks are actually for. With is 30/20zł, two-day tickets 35/25zł. destroyed during WWII, and the one we admire today went superbly kept grass at every turn, perfect for picnics, pick

94 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 95 Łazienki Wilanów of Łazienki’s fi nest buildings. But - as is so often the case manor house was built in 1680, expanding in two stages - what the Nazis couldn’t do the communists could, and into a palace during the years 1681-1696 under the su- though the original walls and foundations remained struc- pervision of Agostino Locci to his own design. It is within turally sound in the 1950s Poland’s communist authorities the central part of the palace where you will see the living decided to tear down the shell of the building and place quarters of King Jan III Sobieski and his French queen con- a military theatre on the site. Common sense prevailed sort, Marie (or Marysieńka as she was aff ectionately called however, and the 1970s saw Ujazdowski rebuilt to its origi- by Sobieski and still is by Poles today) in what is the original nal plans. It today plays host to three large exhibition halls part of the palace. dedicated to showcasing the very best of contemporary art inside; fi nd a wild mix of the good, the bad and the ugly, After Jan III Sobieski’s death in 1696, his widow returned to featuring the work of Poland’s leading contemporary art- France and the palace through their sons became the prop- ists here. Worthy and undoubtedly necessary, the gallery erty of Elzbieta Sieniawska. She continued to develop the also houses a very good bookshop and a café, which has Photo by W. Holnicki palace most notably the two wings which were built in the a terrace whose views over the park, Warsaw and what years 1720-1729. Sieniawska, like many of the subsequent appears to be half of Poland are jaw dropping. Due to the It is very easy to visit Warsaw and imagine its history owners, honoured Sobieski by conserving much of the pal- “Zielony Jazdów” project, till 14/09 the exhibitions are open stretches no further back than the communist post-war ace in memory of the victorious king. It was to become a royal THEATRE ON THE ISLAND (AMFITEATR) for viewers Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00.QG-4, ul. Jazdów 2, tel. era and that of WWII when the city was eff ectively wiped residence again in the early 1730s during the reign of August Crossing the tail of the serpentine lake, follow the path that (+48) 22 628 64 08, www.csw.art.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, from the map of Europe. But that would be to only under- II the Strong. Over the next two hundred years the palace leads along the embankment until you hit the Amphitheatre, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes stand a small part of this city’s and country’s history. The became the property of a succession of the most important also known as the Theatre on the Island. The theatre hosts before closing. Admission 12/6zł, Thu free. U nation’s capital has been in Warsaw since the late 16th Polish families including the Czartoryskis, Lubomirskis, Po- productions throughout the summer, though unless you century and at one time was the centre of the burgeoning tockis and Branickis and each left their mark as they expand- fancy seeing Henry V in Polish these will hold little interest Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, a union which lasted ed and developed the property. One of its most enlightened for foreign visitors. (There are exceptions: ballet and contem- over 200 years and whose territory at once stretched from residents was Stanislaw Kostka Potocki who in the early 19th porary dance performances sometimes get put on here). It the Baltic to the Black Sea (incorporating much of modern century, at a time when Poland as a country ceased to exist is enough just to admire the setting before heading for one day Poland, Ukraine, Belarus and the Baltic States). With so because of the Russian/Prussian/Austrian partition, made his of the kitsch (one features an enormous swan) but irresistible much of pre-war Warsaw destroyed there are few places collection of art and access to the royal apartments of King gondolas that ferry up and down the lake all summer until to experience what this must have been like more than at Jan III Sobieski available to the public. Keep an eye out for the the end of October. A short trip costs 8/6zł per person, and Wilanow’s palace and gardens. words ‘Cunctis patet ingressus’ on the palace fl oor signifying trips depart throughout the day - you may have to wait for the that the palace and its collection were ‘open to all’. boat to fi ll up before the gondolier sets off however.QG-4. The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fi tting monikers applied to this splendid late 17th-century Palace which can UJAZDOWSKI CASTLE (MUSEUM OF MODERN be found in the Warsaw district of Wilanów, 10 kilometres GETTING TO WILANÓW ART/CSW) (CENTRUM SZTUKI WSPÓŁCZESNEJ south of the city centre. Essential visiting for all who come The Palace and Gardens at Wilanow can be reached ZAMEK UJAZDOWSKI) to soak up the capital’s lavish culture and wish to under- best of all by bus or taxi directly from the city cen- A castle of some description has been on found on this site stand a little more about ancient Poland, Wilanów is more tre. The city’s metro system does run to a stop called since the time of the Masovian Dukes (1300s), but the Ujaz- than just a Palace - it represents an era from which much Wilanowska but this is about 5km from the palace and dowski Castle we see today was completed in a baroque has been lost. The palace, park and surrounding ensemble will involve taking a bus from outside of the station. style in 1730 for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski (it was WHITE HOUSE & ORANGERY (BIAŁY DOM I of buildings represent the height of Polish Baroque and this his bathhouse that later became the Palace on the Island STARA POMARAŃCZARNIA) is one of Poland’s greatest national treasures.The sprawling BY BUS and gave Łazienki park its name). Ujazdowski survived two Not quite as grand as the Belvedere but equally impres- 45-hectare setting is also full of things to do, from visiting From Old Town: centuries before being gutted by fi re during WWII, and was sive is the little White House a gorgeous summer house the superb Poster Museum next door to renting a rowing From (B-2) Pl. Zamkowy take buses 116 or 180. Journey indeed lucky to escape total destruction: the retreating Na- built in 1774 for the king’s sisters which displays a fi ne boat on the Palace’s lake. If the weather’s good and you’ve takes about 35 minutes. zis actually tried to blow it to pieces, as they did a number collection of period furniture and decorations. It is open got time to spare, it’s easy to spend an entire and thorough- for visitors from April 15 and the price of admission is ly rewarding day here. From Pl. Trzech Krzyży: 6/4zł. A few steps away is the impressive Old Orangery, From (C-4) Pl. Trzech Krzyży take buses 116, 180 or E-2. one of very few surviving court theatres in the world. It HISTORY Journey takes about 25 minutes. The bus stops can be dates from 1774 and is still used today to host chamber found at the southern end of the square on Al. Ujaz- concerts, as well as being a popular wedding venue for Wilanów gets its name from the Warsaw borough in which dowskie. Warsaw’s wealthy. Part of the building houses a museum Wilanów Palace is located. First mentioned in the 13th cen- of sculpture. From here head back past the White House, tury as Milanów, the then tiny village changed hands sev- From the centre: resist the temptation to head straight for the Palace on eral times before being bought in the 17th century by the From (B-4) outside the Cepelia store on Marszałkowska the Island and instead head south, towards the New family of Stanisław Leszczyński. Leszczyński began building take bus 519. Orangery. Built in cast iron and glass it was designed a Palace here, but the project was halted by the Deluge and by Józef Orłowski and opened in 1861. It is home to the the subsequent capture and plundering of the region by Q From Warszawa Centralna train station: upmarket Belvedere restaurant. G-4, ul. Agrykoli 1, the Swedes. In 1676 the abandoned Milanów was bought Take bus 519 or 700 from the southbound stop on (A- tel. (+48) 22 506 00 28, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. by King Jan III Sobieski looking for a country retreat away 4) ul. Chałubińskiego. Journey takes about 30 minutes. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Mon 11:00 - 18:00. Orangery ad- from Warsaw, and he ordered a new Palace to be built on mission 10/5zł. Thu free. Guided tours in English 70zł the site. Originally called Villa Nova (New Village), the name All buses stop directly outside the palace gates. per group. Y was soon polonised to the one it’s known by today. A brick

96 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 97 Wilanów Wilanów The palace avoided the fate of the city of Warsaw and sur- ciated architecture were recently the subject of a major THE WILANÓW vived the war virtually intact although its collections were revitalisation program and during work on the Baroque JAN III SOBIESKI PALACE MUSEUM seriously looted. Confi scated by Poland’s post-war Com- garden a series of archaeological digs discovered sev- munist government, Wilanów became part of the National eral artefacts, including ceramics dating from the 12th Jan Sobieski was born in Museum in Warsaw and was painstakingly renovated dur- century. Now the gardens have been restored to their Olesko near Lwow (now ing the 1950s and early 1960s, opening its doors to the appearance during the time of King Jan III Sobieski.QO- Ukrainian Lviv) in 1629. His public again in 1962. Today it is the subject of a 32 million pen from 09:00 till dusk. Admission 5/3zł, Thu free. father was a Polish-Lithuani- zloty revitalisation program which is overseeing conser- Note that an obligatory 0zł ticket is still required on an nobleman who ensured vation work in the royal apartments and archaeological Thursdays. Really. Y young Jan and his brother research of the area. The gardens have also recently been received a fi rst class education and they both went onto restored to the splendour they enjoyed during Jan III So- POSTER MUSEUM (MUZEUM PLAKATU) study at the Jagiellonian University in Krakow before Jan bieski’s time. Housed inside the Palace’s former indoor riding area, the travelled abroad. He studied military history and tactics Poster Museum features two large halls full of wonder- including signifi cantly as it would turn out in Turkey (as LAKE & ISLAND ful posters from all over the world. At over 55,000 pieces, an envoy of King Jan II Casimir) where he learned the There’s also a natural lake found behind the Palace, where this is reportedly the largest poster collection to be found Tartar language in the 1650s. Sobieski also spoke French, Photo by W. Holnicki seasonal gondolas complete with gondoliers and rowing anywhere. The museum focuses on the artistic merits of German and Italian and during this time met major Euro- boats can be hired for leisurely trips on the water that will the posters rather than their documentary value and plays pean political fi gures including Louis II deBourbon, Wil- THE WILANÓW PALACE MUSEUM (MUZEUM begin again in May (weather permitting). A trip here will host to a cycle of temporary events and exhibitions. As liam of Orange and Charles II, where it is clear that he PAŁACU KRÓLA JANA III W WILANOWIE) reward you with a glimpse of Enrico Marconi’s strange, a contrast to the historic palace and collection of paint- learnt the value of diplomacy as well as military might. The fi rst museum at Wilanów was opened in 1805 by Gothic-inspired pump room, and an adventure to the Park’s ings next door, this makes for interesting additional place the palace’s owner at the time, Stanisław Kostka Potocki. Jan Sobieski would have a lifelong love of France island reveals a monument to the Polish soldier, Captain to visit while in Wilanów.Qul. S. K. Potockiego 10/16, The current museum, which takes up a substantial por- thanks in part to his French wife Marie (or Marysienka Ksawery Burski, who served in the army of the Duchy of tel. (+48) 22 842 48 48, www.postermuseum.pl. Open tion of the Palace’s interior, comes in two parts. Having as he fondly named her) whom he married in 1665 and Warsaw and who gave his life at Wilanów fi ghting the Aus- 10:00 - 16:00, Mon 12:00 - 16:00; Wed, Sat, Sun 10:00 - bought your ticket in the ticket offi ce near the gate, enter fathered 14 children with (of whom 8 survived). trians at the Battle of Raszyn in 1809. 18:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admis- the wing on the right and descend the stairs. Heading Having returned to Poland Sobieski went on to serve sion 10/7zł, Mon free. through a small room containing some old royal coach- with distinction in the Battle of Warsaw (1656), where PARK & GARDENS es, head up the stairs into the fi rst part of the museum he led a Tartar cavalry regiment, and the Polish Swed- The 45 hectares that make up Wilanów Park grew over ST. ANNE’S CHURCH (KOŚCIÓŁ ŚW. ANNY) - The Polish Portrait Gallery - featuring portraits from the ish wars (1655-1660) among others. In 1666 he sided the centuries according to the particular fancies of its A church on this site dates back to the 14th century when 16th to 19th century. Wander through room after room with the king Michał Korybut Wiśniowiecki during the owners. The Park’s present form dates from the exten- the wooden church of St. Leonard was built here. This was of portraits of the rich and the powerful including some Lubormirski rebellion and added another major victory sive and mostly faithful renovations made during the replaced by a Gothic wooden construction and graveyard fascinating Polish coffi n portraits of important fi gures. If to his list by defeating the Turks at the Battle of Chocim 1950s, overseen by the architect and historian Professor in the 16th century and it wasn’t replaced with a brick one portraits are your thing you will fi nd this very interesting in 1673. It was this victory allied to his reputation as a Gerard Ciołek (1909-1966). Made up of a series of indi- until well after the time of Jan III Sobieski in 1772. The new although the lack of description and in some cases even strong leader, astute military tactician and a canny po- vidual gardens, the Park includes a two-level Baroque church was called St. Anne’s and was founded by Prince the name of the people portrayed is rather frustrating. litical knack that would result in him being elected as garden, a Neo-Renaissance rose garden, a classical Eng- August Adam Czartoryski to a design by Jan Kotelnicki. The tour leads you around the top of the house and Polish King the following year, in 1674. lish landscaped park and the so called English-Chinese Czartoryski’s grand-daughter, Aleksandra Lubormirska Po- then downstairs once more where you will fi nd your- landscape park. The nearby Orangery and its garden tocka, decorated the church with art in the period 1799- Sobieski inherited a nation virtually penniless from 50 self in the residence of the palace. Featuring suits of serves as a splendid venue for outdoor classical music 1831, the most precious of which is the Annunciation to years of continuous war and set about stabilising the armour, Etruscan vases, a room featuring magnifi cent concerts during the summer season. The park near the the Virgin Mary in the main altar. country’s borders through treaties and strategic battles. frescoes uncovered during restoration work after the Orangery, East, North and Rose gardens and their asso- Between 1857 and 1870, Aleksandra’s son August and his It is for this combination of wisdom and bravery that he war, residential rooms, an exceedingly rare 18th-cen- wife extend the church to a design by Henri Marconi. The is well remembered today. tury glass grandfather clock and even a private chapel church gets a Neo-Renaissance look and the marvellous there is a lot to admire. The central part of the lower Sobieski’s greatest moment, however, was to come in dome is added. In the gardens surrounding the church fl oor is the most impressive. It is here that you will fi nd 1683. Having marched through most of the Balkans a building you will fi nd terracotta shrines marking the four- the private apartments of King Jan III Sobieski and his vast Turkish army was massed on the outskirts of Vien- teen Stations of the Cross while within the church, in the wife while the wings house the apartments of the sub- na threatening to overwhelm the Christian world. Led crypt under the chapel, are the tombs of the Potocki family. sequent owners of the palace. It is quite easy to spend by King Jan III Sobieski a joint Polish/German/Austrian The church suff ered damage during both world wars and a couple of hours wandering around the palace but be army scored a magnifi cent victory in a daylong battle was even used as an internment camp by the Nazis, who warned that it tends to fi ll with schoolchildren during on 12 September 1683 vanquishing the Turks. Sobieski also looted and damaged it. The church bells dating from the week and tourists at the weekends so there’s not re- led a charge of Polish hussars breaking the opposition 1723 and 1777 survived thanks to the bravery of the local ally a best time to visit. The Palace is open 09:30-16:00, lines and sending the Turks into disarray. Sobieski en- people who hid them and these are now housed in the Sun 10:30 - 16:00, Tue closed. Last entrance 1 hour tered the abandoned tent of the Turkish commander newly built Third Millenium Tower. before closing.Qul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) Kara Mustapha in the early evening signifying vic- The church is a particularly beautiful one to visit nowadays 22 544 27 00, www.wilanow-palac.pl. Open 09:30 - tory and parts of that tent are today on display within thanks in no small part to the work of the parish priest 16:00, Mon 09:30 - 20:00; Wed, Sat 09:30 - 18:00, Sun Wilanow Palace. The Turks were to name Sobieski ‘The Bogusław Bijak and it is protected as part of a complex of 10:30 - 18:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Lion of Lechistan’ (Lechistan being an ancient name of parks, buildings and original roads running into the centre Admission 20/15zł, Sun free, but you must obtain Poland) while Danzig astronomer Johannes Hevelius of the city as a national Historic Memorial.Qul. Kolegiacka an obligatory ticket for 0zł (we’re unfortunately not would name a newly discovered constellation Scutum 1, tel. (+48) 22 842 18 01, www.parafi awilanow.pl. Open kidding). Audioguide (available in English, French, Sobiescianum (Sobieski’s Shield) after him, quite an ac- 08:00 - 17:00, Sun 14:00 - 17:00. No visiting during mass German, Italian, Russian and Spanish) 12zł. YU colade for a still living, non-astronomer as was Sobieski. Photo by W. Holnicki please.

98 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 99 Jewish Warsaw Jewish Warsaw From the beginning conditions in the city were harsh; re- In Rozwadow Dr. Eugeniusz Lazowski, a graduate of covered Nazi fi les show that while ethnic Germans were Warsaw University, is credited with saving approximately granted a food allowance totaling 2,613 calories per day, 8,000 Jews after putting his medical knowledge to use. Jews and other groups deemed ‘sub-human’ were expect- Having injected the town’s Jews with a benign form of ed to survive on 184 calories. Unsurprisingly a black mar- typhus he then informed the Nazis that an epidemic was ket supported by a smuggling network ran rife, with some at large. Terrifi ed that it would spread, the Nazis quaran- 80 percent of the food in the ghetto supplied through ille- tined the town and left it to its own devices. Known as ‘the gal means. Still it was not enough and as the noose tight- Polish Schindler,’ Lazowski saved 12 ghetto communities ened starvation became the principal enemy. In 1941 over in this crafty manner. “I was not able to fi ght with a gun 100,000 died in this way, their bodies often left to rot in or a sword,” Lazowski said. “But I was able to fi nd a way to the streets. Of the 800 ghettos scattered around the Third scare the Germans.” In Kraków a gentile pharmacist named Reich Warsaw was the largest and also the deadliest. At its Tadeusz Pankiewicz was given special permission to re- zenith approximately 380,000 residents found themselves main in the ghetto and exploited this to lend aid to the squashed into the ghetto, with an average of eight people Jews. Medicine and vaccines were distributed for free, to a room. Yet amid this sea of suff ering a remarkable so- and his pharmacy - now a museum - came to double as cial scene fl ourished, as proved by the meticulous ghetto a centre of underground activity. Regarded as a hero, Pan- diaries kept by Emanuel Ringelblum. Although murdered kiewicz’s role in the Holocaust is remembered in Thomas by the Nazis in 1944, Ringelblum, an intellectual and social of their boltholes by fl amethrowers and gas. On May 8 Ger- Kenneally’s epic Schindler’s Ark. activist, kept volumes of notes documenting the day-to- man forces surrounded the principal command post of the day life of ghetto inhabitants. It is from his painstaking rebels on ul. Miła 18 and rather than face capture Aniele- Another doctor, Irena notes we learn of the soup kitchens and charities that ex- wicz and his cabal opted for mass suicide. Sendler, is credited isted, of the musical concerts and cabarets and the fi fty or with rescuing over 2,500 so underground newspapers that circulated amongst the By May 16 the Uprising was over, with German commander Jews from the Warsaw Collection of Shalom Foundation by Gołda Tencer - Szurmiej masses. Jurgen Stroop announcing, “The former Jewish quarter of ghetto. Born in 1910, Warsaw is no longer in existence.” With the fi ghting over Sendler had a long The illusion of a self-contained, cruel, but surviving parallel the rest of the ghetto was levelled, and its inmates either history of sympathis- At the time Hitler chose to expand Germany’s territories world was shattered in 1942 when the Wansee Conference sent to Treblinka or assigned to Gęsiówka (ul. Gęsia), a ing with the plight of under the odious excuse of providing ‘living space’ for the rubber-stamped plans for the ‘fi nal solution to the Jewish small concentration camp. It is estimated that some 15,000 the Jews and was sus- German people, Warsaw’s Jewish population numbered question’ and the fi rst deportations to death camps began Jews survived the war hiding out on the Aryan side. Today pended for three years 350,000 and growing. Neither pogroms nor the occasional in July. Over the next few weeks around 265,000 Jews were Warsaw’s Jewish population is estimated to stand only at from Warsaw Univer- boycott of Jewish businesses deterred Jews from settling harried to a waiting area known as Umschlagplatz, from around 2,000 and eff orts are underway to gradually reintro- sity after voicing her in the Polish capital and only New York could boast a larger which they were loaded into cattle wagons destined for duce the city’s hollowed out Jewish culture. vociferous opposition Jewish community. Yet within six years Warsaw’s thriving the Treblinka gas chambers. A year later a new action to to segregated benches Jewish scene was all but wiped from the map, with over 90 thin the ghetto was launched, and by April 1943 a fi nal and was active in the percent perishing either in the Ghetto or the gas chambers push to completely liquidate the biggest ghetto began. For HEROES IN HORROR underground the moment the war broke out. Aided by of Treblinka. too long the Jews had been limited to passive resistance, Sometimes it takes tragedy to create heroes. This is never her colleagues she forged over 3,000 documents to help but now, with rumours circulating about death camps, a truer than with the Holocaust, a black time where Nazi ter- Jewish families, and later headed the children’s section Although anti-Semitism was by no means rare Poland was band of ill-equipped insurgents faced up to the full weight ror was answered with dignity and courage. Anti-Semitism of Zegota - a secret organisation that was a ‘Council to seen as a relative safe haven, and it drew settlers forced of the Nazi military machine. Led by Mordechaj Aniele- was common in pre-war Poland (in fact so clear was this di- Aid Jews.’ Using the fi erce-looking court building on into fl ight by more discriminatory regimes elsewhere. By wicz, the Jewish Fighting Organization (ŻOB) launched the vide that the inter-war years saw seated segregation in such Solidarnosci as her bridge from the ghetto to freedom the inter-war years the Jewish population had made sig- Ghetto Uprising on April 19, 1943. Numbering a few hun- grand institutions as the local university) and under Nazi she smuggled countless children inside parcels and nifi cant contributions to the social, political and cultural dred the Jewish fi ghters continued their dogged resistance, occupation collaboration was commonplace - denouncing boxes. The children were then sent to live in convents fabric of Poland, a contribution that would eventually be but faced with heavy artillery and even Stuka Dive Bombers Jews and revealing hiding places brought considerable fi - and rectories, but not before she recorded their identi- extinguished by the monstrous racial policies of the Nazis. it was a doomed struggle. Vicious street-to-street, house- nancial reward. Worse still, there were several instances of ties in a glass jar she kept buried at home. Her actions When Warsaw fell following a brief yet brutal siege the to-house battles ensued, with insurgents often burnt out Poles actively taking part in pogroms and ‘Jew hunts,’ the aroused the attention of the Gestapo, and in 1943 she city’s ancient Jewish population was damned to destruc- most notorious occurring in the town of Jedwabne in 1941. was arrested, tortured and sentenced to death. A bribe tion. By 1940 Jews were forcibly penned into an area that It was here on the 10th of July that a mob of Poles rounded from Zegota saved her life, but nonetheless she was left already housed most of the Jewish population. On March up nearly 400 Jews and marched them to a barn which unconscious in a forest, with both her arms and legs bro- 27, 1940, the Judenrat, a Jewish council answerable to the was subsequently torched. It’s a shameful episode in Polish ken. She was offi cially declared dead by the Germans, Nazi’s whims, was ordered to build a wall around the ghetto history, and one immortalised in Jan Gross’s book Neigh- and spent the rest of the war in hiding. But even peace and a resettlement deadline of October 15 was handed to bours. Nevertheless, such events should be off set by stories brought no respite; she was persecuted by the commu- the city’s Jews. Failure to move into the assigned area was of those who risked life and limb to help the persecuted. nist authorities on account of her wartime relations with punishable by death. Spanning 18 kilometres and enclos- Poland was at the forefront of Nazi terror, and the punish- the exiled government, and faced constant harassment. ing 73 of Warsaw’s 1,800 streets, the area was carved into a ment for sheltering Jews was death. The policy was unique In 2003 Pope John Paul II sent her a letter praising her for ‘small’ and ‘large’ ghetto, the two linked by a wooden bridge in the occupied territories, and ruthlessly enforced. Even so, courage, and later that year she was awarded the Order standing over ul. Chłodna (E-2). Today an installation titled it is estimated that over three million Poles actively helped of the White Eagle - Poland’s highest civilian decoration. ‘Footbridge of Memory’ stands at this spot, with optical Jews to survive and Yad Vashem has recognised over 6,000 She died in 2008, though even now remains a target of fi bres illuminating the former handrails over the street at Poles as being ‘Righteous Among Nations’ - more than in hate for some; in July 2010 her grave was vandalised with night. Collection of Shalom Foundation by Gołda Tencer - Szurmiej any other country. the words ‘Jews Out.’

100 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 101 Jewish Warsaw Chopin Finally, Jan Karski is remembered in the history books as A FOOTBRIDGE OF MEMORY (KŁADKA PAMIĘCI) the age of eight had already performed at what is now the the man who tried to stop the Holocaust. Born in Łódź in One of the most recognisable images of the Warsaw Presidential Palace. Yet in spite of his obvious talents ap- 1914, Karski’s photographic memory and fl uent command Ghetto is that of the footbridge constructed over ul. plications for a state grant were repeatedly refused. Nev- of foreign languages caught the attention of the Polish Chłodna to connect the large and small ghettos. To ertheless, his childhood was happy, and the gingerbread diplomatic services, landing him prestigious posts abroad. commemorate that spot is one of Warsaw’s newest eating Frederic received gushing reviews in local columns With Europe gearing up for war Karski joined the horse artil- memorials: a pair of metal poles connected via opti- and press. lery, with his unit captured by the Red Army. Karski avoided cal fibers which, after the sun sets, project the shape A diligent student he was educated at home for the fi rst death in the forests of Katyń when he escaped from a train of the footbridge over the road via light. Designed by 13 years, before attending Warsaw’s Lyceum, and then the transporting him to a POW camp and headed to Warsaw Tomasz Tusch-Lec and installed in September 2011, the Warsaw Music Conservatory. He continued to blossom to join the Polish underground. Realising the value of his memorial also has viewing windows inside the poles under its director, the Polish composer Joseph Elsner, who remarkable memory his superiors employed Karski as a cou- where visitors can flip through images of life in the War- was wowed by Chopin’s musical mastery. He graduated rier, a perilous position that involved crossing frontlines in saw Ghetto.QD-2, Intersection of ul. Chłodna and ul. from the Conservatory in 1829, the same year he was to order to swap information with allies. One such foray saw Żelazna. meet Konstancha Gładkowska, and his unrequited love for him captured by the Gestapo while crossing the Slovakian her inspired many of his early compositions. Tatra Mountains. He slit his wrists following an intense bout MONUMENT TO THE GHETTO HEROES Within three weeks of graduation he made a sparkling of torture, and was locked in a closely guarded hospital in (POMNIK BOHATERÓW GETTA) foreign debut in Vienna, before returning to Poland to per- Nowy Sacz. Determined not to lose their star courier a crack Designed by Natan Rappaport, the monument pays tribute form the premier of his Piano Concerto in F minor. Already team of Polish troops broke him out and Karski resumed his to the heroes of the Ghetto Uprising of 1943. Found be- recognised as an amazing talent, Chopin started showing duties. In 1942 he was chosen to undertake a daring mis- tween (E-1) ul. Anielewicza, Zamenhofa, Lewartowskiego the signs of illness that would continue to blight the rest sion to meet Wladyslaw Sikorski - Prime Minister of Poland’s and Karmelicka it is here that the heaviest fi ghting took of his life. A keen traveller (on record is a tour of Europe un- government-in-exile - in London, the purpose being to replace. In an ironic quirk, the stone cladding on the monu- dertaken in 1826 during which he visited Dresden, Kraków, veal the extent of German atrocities in occupied Poland. To ment was originally ordered from Sweden by Hitler for a Prague and numerous other places as a tourist), Chopin set gather information he was smuggled into the Warsaw ghet- victory arch.QA-1, ul. Zamenhofa. off to play in Vienna in November 1830, following a farewell to and given a graphic tour of the hunger and horror mani- party in a Wola tavern. festing behind the walls. The experience proved so powerful NOŻYK SYNAGOGUE (SYNAGOGA NOŻYKÓW) Unbeknownst to him at the time, that was to be his last that Karski later found himself questioning his own memory Built between 1898 and 1902 in a neo-Romanesque taste of Warsaw. By the end of the month Poland had risen and decided a second visit was in order to convince him that style, this was the only Warsaw synagogue to survive in rebellion against the ruling Russians. Dissuaded from what he had seen was real. This time, disguised as a Ukrai- the ravages of war. It was fully restored between 1977 joining the uprising himself Chopin drew inspiration from nian guard, he infi ltrated a transit camp in Izbica and wit- and 1983. Now open for worship.QE-3, ul. Twarda 6, events to write his masterpiece, Revolution. Passages of his nessed random brutalities as well as cattle wagon transports tel. (+48) 22 620 43 24, www.warszawa.jewish.org. 2010 saw the country toast Chopin with champagne; Po- Stuttgart diary record his torment: “Oh God, do you exist? leading Jews to the gas chambers. He successfully made it pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Fri 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - land’s greatest composer, and Warsaw’s favourite son, a Or are you yourself a Muscovite!” Choosing to stay in exile to England and was granted an audience with foreign sec- 20:00. Closed Sat. No visiting during services. Groups man who has lent his name to everything from vodka to Chopin settled in playboy Paris where he was welcomed by retary Antony Eden as well as Sikorski and the leader of the of more than ten should reserve in advance. Admis- airports (and even an asteroid). For 2010 marked the 200th Polish émigrés, as well as upcoming composers and high Jewish Bun. Maddeningly, his testimonies fell on deaf ears. sion 6zł. N anniversary of Fryderyk Chopin’s birth and saw the city cel- society. His friends numbered Berlioz, Bellini (who he is bur- In the following decades his attempt to stop the Holocaust ebrate his life with amongst other things the opening of a ied next to) and Mendelssohn, as well as high profi le Poles was allowed to gather dust, and only came to public atten- OKOPOWA STREET JEWISH CEMETERY fabulous new museum. like the uncrowned King, Prince Adam Czartoryski and tion with the release of the 1978 epic fi lm Shoah. He died in (CMENTARZ ŻYDOWSKI) bard Adam Mickiewicz, while his dapper dress and natural 2000, eight years after his Jewish/Polish wife, herself a Holo- A beautiful and poignant place to visit. The cemetery was charms attracted a string of adoring females. caust survivor, committed suicide. originally founded in 1806 and currently houses around CHOPIN - LIFE & TIMES Drawing on his Polish upbringing the 1830s saw Chopin 250,000 tombs. Amongst those buried here are Ludwik Za- And what a life it was. Of course, in the spirit of all the greats enjoy an impressively productive spell, composing a series menhof, inventor of the international language Esperanto. there’s a considerable element of mystery surrounding the of acclaimed polonaises and mazurkas. Ill health followed WHAT TO SEE QD-1, ul. Okopowa 49/51, tel. (+48) 22 838 26 22, www. man. Say it very, very quietly, but there’s even dispute as him however, so much so that when he was taken ill on a JEWISH HISTORICAL INSTITUTE beisolam.jewish.org.pl. Open from 10:00 till dusk, Fri to his birthday and parentage. Most sources agree he was trip to meet his parents in 1835 some Polish scandal sheets (ŻYDOWSKI INSTYTUT HISTORYCZNY 09:00 - 13:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission born on February 22, 1810, yet some claim his family could reported him dead. IM. EMANUELA RINGELBLUMA) 8zł. be found celebrating his birth on March 1. At the time of He wasn’t, and the defi ning point of his life was to oc- A chilling recollection of Polish Jewry and the only institu- his death only Jane Stirling, his Scottish benefactor, claimed cur two years later when he met the controversial author tion in Poland focusing entirely on the study of the history TRACES OF THE GHETTO to know the truth, and this she wrote on a piece of paper George Sand (yes, that’s a woman). His fi rst impression is and culture of the Polish Jews. This amazing building houses Following the Ghetto Uprising the whole area was lev- before burying it with him. Furthermore, while most accept recorded as being surprisingly acid: ‘what an unpleasant permanent and temporary exhibits relating to secular and elled so few traces remain. If you duck into the court- he was the son of a French expatriate some experts argue woman’, he is known to have commented. Already se- religious Jewish life in the country from its beginnings to the yard at (E-3) ul. Sienna 55 you will see a remaining part he was the bastard child of an unnamed aristocrat. The cretly engaged to a 17 year old Polish girl, how Chopin’s annihilation during WWII and beyond. As well as an excellent of the ghetto wall complete with a commemorative truth has been lost to time. life would have evolved if he had never seen Sand again is bookshop, the institute’s museum, opened in 1948, features plaque. Somewhat impressively, the local government One thing we can be certain of, and that’s his birthplace - open to speculation. Instead he embarked on a torrid nine a large interactive display in the entrance hall that allows its have decided to honour Warsaw’s Holocaust history by the town of Żelazowa Wola fi fty kilometres west of Warsaw. year aff air with this classic ‘scarlet woman’, with one stage of users to fi nd out about Jewish life in any part of the country. introducing a ‘ghetto trail’. Developed with the help However, he stayed there for just a year, with the family their rocky relationship marked by a stint in an abandoned They are several temporary exhibits on the Warsaw Ghetto of the Jewish Historical Institute the route has seen moving to Warsaw in 1811 after his ‘father’, a man who’d monastery on the island of Mallorca. including a documentary in 4 languages. Essential visiting. the boundary of the former Ghetto outlined on pave- fought the Russians in the Napoleonic Wars, found a job Racked with chronic lung problems and a near perma- QB-2, ul. Tłomackie 3/5, tel. (+48) 22 827 92 21, www.jhi. ments, as well as the appearance of 21 dual language as a French tutor. nent cough, the faltering aff air spun out of control when pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. Last information boards positioned in places of particular By all accounts he was a prodigy from the offi ng. The young Sand, a loose-moraled man-killer, serialised the novel Lu- entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/5zł. interest. Frederic started learning piano at the age of four, and by cretia Floriani in a Paris newspaper in 1846. The boorish,

102 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 103 Chopin Chopin asexual antihero is commonly recognized as being a par- CHOPIN MONUMENT (POMNIK CHOPINA) FRYDERYK CHOPIN ody of Chopin. Broke, ill and now broken-hearted, Chopin Don’t dare miss a visit to the art nouveau Chopin Monu- ŻELAZOWA WOLA MUSEUM led an increasingly miserable and secluded life. He fi nally ment (G-4) next to the Botanical Garden. Set in the midst passed away in his Paris apartment aged just 39 - though of a rose garden it was erected in 1926, the work of ac- ŻELAZOWA WOLA - BIRTHPLACE just like his birth, his death is equally contentious; some claimed sculptor Wacław Szymankowski. As part of the The Chopin clan left for Warsaw in the autumn of 1810, believe tuberculosis as the cause of death, others a malady Nazi brutalization of Warsaw it was dynamited by Ger- but even so Żelazowa Wola clearly held fond memo- such as emphysema or cystic fi brosis. If you believe the man busybodies on May 31, 1940. The following day an ries for the family. Close friends with the neighbouring stories he carried a lock of Sand’s hair till the day he died unknown patriot had placed a placard on the smolder- Skarbek family the Chopins found themselves return- (though by the same token he is also alleged to have car- ing ruin declaring: ‘I don’t know who destroyed me, but ing frequently for their holidays, and we know for fact ried an urn of Polish soil). Buried in Pere-Lachaise cemetery I know why; so I don’t play the funeral march for your the composer spent Christmas here in 1825 and New in Paris, on his insistence his body was cut open (he was leader’. A plaster-cast of the original model allowed the Year in 1826. The ZW manor house which saw the birth petrifi ed of being buried alive) and his heart later interned statue to be rebuilt and a reconstruction was unveiled in of Chopin is thought to have been built at the tail end in a pillar of Warsaw’s Kościół Świętego Krzyża. His funeral 1958.QG-4, Łazienki Park. of the 18th century, and came into the ownership of was as weird as his life, delayed for two weeks while church Countess Ludwika Skarbek in 1801. Adam Towiański, authorities debated whether to grant his wish and allow CHURCH OF THE NUNS OF THE VISITATION who resided there between 1859 and 1878, was the Touted as one of the most high tech in Europe the mu- Mozart’s Requiem to be sung at his funeral (the point of Visit the church that Chopin attended in his youth by pop- fi rst to raise the idea of turning the manor into a place seum offi cially opened in the spring of 2010 to help mark contention being the presence of female singers). Re- ping into this baroque beauty. Pride of place goes to the of memory, and he set about restoring the complex to the 200th anniversary of one of Poland’s most famous garded as the pinnacle of the Romantic style his music and original organ which our man himself played during a part its Chopin-era glory. A change of ownership saw the sons. Taking up four fl oors the museum features an inter- legend survive to this day. time stint as a school organist. A plaque outside confi rms project stall for a decade and it was only in 1891 that active style and shares in the life of Chopin from start to the Chopin connection: ‘In honour of Fryderyk Chopin, work was resumed on building a Chopin museum. fi nish leaving absolutely no detail out. Among the 5,000 who played on the organ in this church as a pupil of the Thwarted by a lack of funds these eff orts didn’t get exhibits are a lock of hair, his school exercise books, a sweet WHAT TO SEE Warsaw Lyceum in the years 1825-1826’.QC-3, ul. Kra- much further than the unveiling of a Chopin monu- box, a gold watch presented to the ten year old Frederic ŁAZIENKI PARK kowskie Przedmieście 34, tel. (+48) 22 826 65 85, www. ment, and for the next couple of decades work didn’t by an admiring Italian singer and the passport he used to Our youthful cherry-cheeked hero frequently gave con- wizytki.waw.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, so much stall as die. enter England. So comprehensive is the collection it even certs in the Belvedere Palace (G-5, ul. Belwederska 52), then 15:00 - 16:30, Sun 13:15 - 16:30. No visiting during mass Poland regained her independence in 1918, and the features the last letter he wrote to his family and dried the stamping ground of the Russian aristocracy. It was here please. related surge in national pride and patriotism saw fl owers from his deathbed. Also, of course, are several he played for the Tsar’s brother, Great Prince Konstanty, new eff orts to commemorate Chopin’s legacy. The paintings and sculptures (including his death mask), and whose numerous duties included being the commander- HOLY CROSS CHURCH (KOŚCIÓŁ ŚW. KRZYŻA) building was granted historic status and in 1928 the a recreation of his Paris drawing room and even an intrigu- in-chief of the Polish Army. So taken was he by Chopin’s No Chopinologist can leave Warsaw without fi rst visit- property was purchased by a Sochaczew-based Cho- ing section on the women who made the man. skills that he persuaded him to pen a march to be played ing the fi nal resting place of his heart (the rest of him pin society. Restoration on the buildings was initiated during military parades. being in Paris’ famous Père Lachaise cemetery). Added in 1930, as were plans to landscape the gardens, and However, what really revolutionizes this museum is the Elsewhere in Łazienki don’t dare miss a visit to the art nouveau to the church in 1882 his heart was sealed in an urn and buoyed by donations the curators started amassing way your route is conducted. Aside from an avalanche Chopin Monument (G-4) next to the Botanical Garden. Set in then placed behind a tablet bearing his likeness spe- a stack of Chopin memorabilia, among them a Pleyel of e-books, audio-visuals, music games and touchscreen the midst of a rose garden it was erected in 1926, the work of cially carved by Leonardo Marconi.QC-3, ul. Krakowskie piano. Disaster struck in the familiar form of the Ger- options, the museum allows visitors to ‘adapt their trip acclaimed sculptor Wacław Szymankowski. As part of the Nazi Przedmieście 3, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 10, www.swkrzyz. man army: the outbreak of war in 1939 saw a German to their particular circumstances’. Put simply those enter- brutalization of Warsaw it was dynamited by German busy- pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 14:00 - 16:00. No visiting unit billeted here, and the building was looted and ing can choose exactly what they want to see, and how bodies on May 31, 1940. The following day an unknown pa- during mass please. damaged. much they want to know about it. Even better are the triot had placed a placard on the smouldering ruin declaring: By the time the Chopin Institute was awarded trust of micro-chipped tickets that can be swiped along diff er- ‘I don’t know who destroyed me, but I know why; so I don’t the house in the late 1940s the house found itself in ent interactive exhibits to allow the visitor to hear music, play the funeral march for your leader’. A plaster-cast of the AND THE REST a sorry state of rot. Working round the clock to restore stories or watch a fi lm. One area that was particularly original model allowed the statue to be rebuilt and a faithful It didn’t have a Starbucks and it didn’t have Coffeeheav- it Żelazowa Wola was re-opened to the public on the popular is the musical Twister game, which had normally reconstruction was unveiled in 1958. An identical replica can en, but even back in those days Warsaw had a thriving centenary of his death in 1949. stoic middle-aged tourists leaping from spot to spot as be found at Japan’s Hamamatsu Academy of Music. café culture. This wasn’t lost on Chopin who would fre- Today no original fi xtures and fi ttings remain, and even music played. Mr Chopin, welcome to the 21st century. quent now defunct venues such as Pod Kopciuszkiem the original layout has been altered somewhat. Even so, the house has been fi lled with period keepsakes, instru- As for the building, that’s worth getting to know as well. CHOPIN BENCHES and Dziurka on ul. Miodowa. One venue that has sur- ments and paintings, and visitors all attest to the haunt- Located in the Ostrogski Palace the structure housing the The good city of Warsaw has devised one more way to vived is Honoratka, named after it’s proprietor Honorata ing spirit of Chopin that hangs in the rooms. museum is something of a Warsaw landmark, and was bring Chopin to the people, and that’s by way of fi fteen Zimerman, and a particular favourite stomping ground Outside the landscaped gardens make for a nice week- originally designed by Tylman van Gameren. In the past musical benches that have been placed at key sites con- of the composer. He was also an avid reader, confess- end walk, and feature four Chopin monuments includ- it’s been home to everything from a Napoleonic military nected with his life. Made of cast iron and polished black ing to visiting the Brzezina Bookstore (again, now gone) ing one obelisk dating from 1894. hospital to the riotous Morgan’s Pub, and its catacombs stone these benches, designed by Professor Jerzy Porebski, on Miodowa every day, as well as stocking up on sheet Żelazowa Wola is 54km west of Warsaw and can be are said to be home of the legendary Golden Duck; a feature a button which when pressed have been designed music in Dal Trozza on Senatorska. Elsewhere the build- reached by catching a mini-bus at ul. Marszałkowska princess charmed by the devil before being transformed to unleash a thirty second torrent of Chopin. They also ing on the corner of ul. Kozia and Trębacka formerly (next to Rossman) courtesy of Motobus. QŻelazowa into a beaked amphibian.QC-3, ul. Okólnik 1, tel. (+48) come equipped with a route map as well as brief expla- housed the Royal Post Office, and it’s here that Chopin Wola 15, tel. (+48) 46 863 33 00, www.chopin. 22 441 62 51, www.chopin.museum. Open 11:00 - nations in Polish and English as to the site’s relevance to forwarded his luggage from before departing Poland museum. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Museum closed Mon 20:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before clos- Chopin. However, that’s not all. These benches see Chopin for what would prove to be his last time. Finally there’s (park open). Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 22/13zł, family ticket 62zł, Sun free. go techno: each one comes inscribed with a special code Powązki Cemetery, where his parents lie in plot 9-IV-1. ing. Admission 7/4zł for the park, 23/14zł for park Number of visitors is restricted, so it is advisable to - take a pic on your phone, then send it to the instructed Józef Elsner, his mentor and teacher, can be found at and museum. Thu free. N reserve tickets in advance by email or phone. YU number and you’ll be rewarded to free access to Chopin plot 159-V-1. melodies, facts, fi gures and photographs.

104 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 105 Łódź Russian and German economic markets led to strikes and ŁÓDŹ IN YOUR POCKET civil unrest that were to become a feature of inter-war Łódź. Things were about to get worse: the outbreak of WWII saw Łódź may look like it’s pro- Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels the city annexed into The Third Reich. nounced Lodz, but it most cer- öGě The following six years of occupation left the population May - August 2014

in the country, and a direct prod- inyourpocket.com and cultural institutes decamp to the nearest big city; that uct of the Industrial Revolution. 1Ź]î city was Łódż, and today the town can boast a rich cultural And while Łódź cannot boast the twee charisma of heritage, with Poland’s leading fi lm school, one of the most Prague and Kraków a scratch of the surface rewards the important modern art galleries in Europe, and an exciting intrepid traveller with a city stuff ed with wacky stories, underground culture. dark history and some of the countries fi nest after-dark Today Łódź is a city slowly rediscovering itself, growing in venues – you’ll fi nd them all inside our 13th issue of confi dence and coming to terms with its patchy history. Łódź In Your Pocket; Poland’s fi rst comprehensive Eng- Overlooked by many visitors to Poland, this is a city full of lish-language guide to the city. hidden charms: from the awesome palaces that belonged to the hyper-rich industrialists who made the city, to Eu- rope’s longest pedestrian street (Piotrkowksa) to the largest GETTING TO ŁÓDŹ municipal park in Europe. You’ll fi nd everything you need Łódz lies 140km south west of Warsaw and is easily ac- to know about the city in our print guide to Łódź, as well as cessed by train. When modernization fi nishes Łódz will our full content online at www.inyourpocket.com. be within an hour’s reach of Warsaw, but for the time being journey time is around two hours and fi fteen minutes, while they continue to work on the new high speed link. If MANUFAKTURA you’re travelling from the capital you’ll need to book a ticket How many times have you heard a shopping centre call running to Łódź Kaliska train station (Łódz Fabryczna is un- itself ‘More than a shopping centre?’ In the case of Manu- der construction until 2015). The city centre is best reached faktura, for once the hyperbole is entirely justifi ed. For this by taxis. Taxis stand directly outside the main entrance the is indeed more than a shopping centre. In fact, we really train station, though travellers should only use cabs that are shouldn’t be calling it a shopping centre at all. Covering a clearly marked. space of 150,000m2 Manufaktura does of course feature a mall with endless shopping opportunities, but that would not tell the full story. SOME BASICS Manufaktura today is the result of Poland’s largest renovation Łódź fi rst appeared in written records in 1332 under the project since the reconstruction of Warsaw’s Old Town in the name of Łodzia and remained little more than a rural back- 1950s. Originally a series of factories that were constructed water for the following centuries, with a population num- in the latter part of the 19th century the restoration of the bering just 800 as late as the 16th century. old factories quite simply has to be seen to be believed. En- The birth of modern Łódź as we know it can be traced to ter through the Poznański gate, where workers used to fi le 1820, when statesman, philosopher and writer Stanisław through everyday on their way to the mills, and you’ll ar- Staszic began a campaign to turn the Russian-controlled rive at the projects ground zero: the 30,000m2 Rynek (main city into a centre of manufacturing. The fi rst cotton mill was square). Featuring Europe’s longest fountain the square is the opened in 1825 and by 1839 the fi rst steam-powered fac- cultural hub, with restaurants, fi tness club and IMAX cinema tory in Poland and Russia was offi cially christened. A mas- crowded around it. A full program of events is planned to sive infl ux of workers from as far afi eld as Portugal, England keep things lively, including pop concerts, beer festival and and France fl ooded the city, though the mainstay of the big screen showings of sports events. town’s population remained Poles, Germans and Jews. Manufaktura is visited by close on 20 million visitors a year Within a matter of decades Łódź had grown into the big- and has become the new heart of the city. For the more gest textile production centre in the Russian Empire, during languorous character two electric tramlines have also been which time vast fortunes were made and lost by the major added to ferry visitors from one end of the complex to the industrialist families. other. And in spite all of this Manufaktura remains very By the outbreak of WWI the town stood out as one of the much a work in progress with new additions and changes most densely populated cities on the planet with a popula- happening all the time. The complex can boast a state of tion of approximately 13,000 people per square kilometre. the art 4-star Andels hotel, a Museum of Art as well as the But hard times were around the corner; the inter-war years History of Lodz museum set in the palace of the former mill signaled an end to the town’s Golden Age, and the loss of owner Izrael Poznanski.

106 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com Leisure Leisure BOWLING & BILLIARDS ARCO BOWLING ALLEY Two ﬂ oors, 32 lanes, restaurant and club. 80-150zł per lane per hour, shoes and instructor included.QD-5, ul. Bitwy Warsza- wskiej 1920r. 19, tel. (+48) 22 668 75 91, www.arco-bowling. pl. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.

ENTERTAINMENT CENTRES HULAKULA LEISURE CENTRE Includes a bowling alley, club, restaurant, pool hall, climbing wall and indoor playground for children.QC-2, ul. Do- bra 56/66 (University Library), tel. (+48) 22 552 74 00, www.hulakula.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Wed 12:00 - 01:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.

SPIN CITY Admission for bowling is 40-99zł per hour. Features a bowling alley, a bar with pool tables and darts and a video games area.Qul. Powstańców Śląskich 126A (Cinema City, Bemowo), tel. (+48) 22 560 42 42, www.spincity.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00.

FITNESS & GYMS HOLMES PLACE At 3,800m2 this is Warsaw’s largest fi tness centre and in- RosRososeGe Garda dene iinn WilWillanóann wwP Parkark | PhoPh tot byy W.W HolHoolnicn kki cludes a 25 metre pool, cafe and latest in hi-tech equipment.QE-3, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton Warsaw Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 356 59 04, www.holmesplace.pl. Open Need a break from sightseeing? Warsaw off ers plenty of and 7zł for each hour after that up to 12 hours. There’s 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. diversions that will let you relax away from the crowds a 272zł fee for exceeding 12 hours, and a whopping whether you prefer leisurely exploring a local park, engag- 1,770zł cost for replacing a lost or damaged bike so PURE HEALTH AND FITNESS ing in something active or winding down with a visit to one behave yourself. When you return the bike, which Third fl oor of Złote Tarasy, with facilties including gym, of the city’s many spas. can be done at any of the stations, you make another jacuzzi, sauna and solarium.QA-4, ul. Złota 59 (Złote phone call confirming the return and you’re finished. Tarasy), tel. (+48) 22 379 77 77, www.purepoland.com. Q BIKE RENTAL en.veturilo.waw.pl. Open 06:00 - 22:30, Sat 08:00 - 22:30, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. VETURILO WYGODNY ROWER Warsaw has cemented its big-city credentials by Choose from two diff erent styles of bicycles for cruising GOLF introducing a city-wide bike rental fleet, and the around the city at this cafe/boutique/bike shop. An hour GOLF PARK DRIVING RANGE numbers are impressive. With 160 stations spread goes for 10 zł, 2 hrs/18zł and 4 hrs/25 zł while a full day For 25zł you get 50 balls for use on the driving range. throughout Warsaw Śródmieście, Bielany Targówek, will cost 40zł and 24 hours 50zł. All rentals require a return- Qul. Vogla 19 (Wilanów), tel. (+48) 22 424 70 83, www. Żoliborz, Ochota, Praga Północ, Włochy, Bemowo, able deposit of 200zl or 50 euros.QC-3, ul. Smolna 10, tel. golfparkspoland.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00. Wola, Wilanow, and Ursynow and offering 2,500 bikes (+48) 787 38 63 86, www.wygodnyrower.pl. Open 11:00 there’s no question you’ll be spotting the silvery fleet - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. GOLF PARKS POLAND flying through the city’s streets. And why not try A driving range and six-hole course for 30zl per hour. one yourself? The system is ridiculously easy: set up Qul. Vogla 19 (Wilanów), tel. (+48) 22 424 70 83, www. an account online (en.veturilo.waw.pl is the English- HULAKULA BOWLING golfparkspoland.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00. language site) and pay the initial 10zł fee. Once you’re ALLEY registered you can visit any of the stations and select QC-2, ul. Dobra 56/66 HORSE RIDING your ride, which has its own individual code. Simply (University Library), tel. dial the enter your phone number, your PIN and the ANKA RANCHO HORSE RIDING (+48) 22 552 74 00. Open Q bike’s code, and you’ll receive the number to unlock 12:00 - 24:00, Wed 12:00 - 01:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, ul. Wawrzyniecka 25, Glinianka, tel. (+48) 602 30 48 the bicycle from the stand. Then you’re off! The first Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. 61, www.ankarancho.pl. Open Sat, Sun only: 09:00 - 20 minutes are free, and from there you pay 1zł for 21- 35-125zł per hour. Shoes included. 13:00, 15:00 till dusk. Phone reservation 2 days in ad- 60 minutes, 3zł for the second hour, 5zł for the third, vance. One hour horse riding 50zł.

108 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 109 Leisure Leisure WILCZENIEC COUNTRY CLUB which has expanded spa services like massage and micro- BOAT RENTAL English speaking instruction also available.Qul. Kościelna dermabrasion.QC-3, ul. Nowy Świat 58a, tel. (+48) 22 & RIVER CRUISES Droga 10, Łomianki, tel. (+48) 22 751 97 77, www. 826 81 01, www.franckprovost.pl. Open 07:00 - 23:00, wilczeniec.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. 60zł/45 Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. minutes of riding in a closed corral with assistance, 40zł/45 minutes riding outside the corral on your own. HOLMES PLACE PREMIUM Spa, fi tness, swimming pool, wet and dry sauna as well as Q beauty & spa OUTDOOR ATTRACTIONS beauty treatments. One day pass: 100zł. G-5, ul. Belwed- erska 23, tel. (+48) 22 851 05 63, www.holmesplace.pl. & PARKS Open 06:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. HELICOPTER.PL See Warsaw from above in a Eurocopter courtesy of He- NEW TK /K /NVRS@ÿB®V6@QRY@VX 6@QRY@V@ licopter.pl. Flights depart from Bemowo and last 30 min- SALON KOSMETYCZNY 15-115 , 3 utes, fl ying over the Wisła and National Stadium.Qul. A centrally located beauty salon and spa off ering a vast Photo: Michał Matuszewski/Flickr.com/CC BY-SA 2.0 Księżycowa 3 (Bielany), building #15, tel. (+48) 509 26 range of treatments, massages and related complicated 04 00, www.helicopter.pl. looking procedures to help make you look and feel like a RIVER FERRIES million dollars (approx. 3 million PLN!). Constantly keeping SUNGATE BEAUTY & SPA In the summer ferries pootle back and forth across the an eye on the latest European and International trends in The menu of services available at Sungate is staggering: Wisła at four strategically-placed points: Cypel Czernia- RACQUET SPORTS the beauty market. Members of the 15-115 team are well from facials and every imaginable type of massage (shea kowski - Saska Kępa (H-3), Poniatowski Bridge - National CITY SPORTS CLUB known for their regular appearances in the Polish media butter to aromatherapy) to waxing and nailcare they have Stadium (H-2), Podzamcze - Zoo (B/C-1) and Łomianki - Located on ul. Domaniewska, they off er a variety of sports and will be sure to off er you some of the best advice, care you covered from head to foot. Package for couples, wom- Nowodwory. These crossings are phenomenally popular instruction and facility rental for tennis, swimming, golf, and pampering in the city.QC-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19, en and just regular folks who like to indulge are also avail- and unfortunately passenger numbers are limited, so the squash, dance and climbing walls. Tennis is perhaps the tel. (+48) 501 01 51 15, www.15-115.pl. able.QB-3, Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. (+48) 517 3-4 minutes it would take to make the crossing often ends most popular with numerous courts available (60-100zł/ 01 28 80, www.spasungate.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00. up being a lot of time spent in a queue to get on board. Still, per hour), lessons with an English-speaking instructor (60- it’s a novel way of getting across the Wisła without having 180zł/per hour), equipment rental (by prior arrangement) ZOO to cross a bridge, though the ferries end for the season on and social lessons for expats.Qul. Domaniewska 41a (Mo- SWIMMING August 31.QŁomianki - Nowodwory ferry runs week- kotów), tel. (+48) 695 83 68 80, www.citysportsclub.pl. AQUAPARK WESOLANDIA days 13:00 - 19:00 on the hour Sat, Sun and holidays Open 09:00 - 18:00. Includes a junior swimming pool, Jacuzzi, slide, fi tness 10:10 - 20:15. Cypel Czerniakowski - Saska Kępa and centre. Length 25m, depth 1.1-1.8m.Qul. Wspólna 4 Podzamcze - Zoo ferries run weekdays 12:30 - 19:15, SQUASH CITY (Wesoła), tel. (+48) 22 773 91 91, www.wesolandia.pl. Sat, Sun and holidays 10:00 - 20:05. Poniatowski Bridge - Nine air-conditioned courts. A second location at Mal- Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. 12-20zł per National Stadium ferry runs weekdays 12:45 - 19:30, Sat, borska 51-53 features six courts and the same prices hour. All day tickets 30-32zł. Sun and holidays 10:10 - 20:15. Admission free. for admission.QAl. Jerozolimskie 179 (CH Blue City, Ochota), tel. (+48) 22 499 64 66, www.squashcity.pl. WODNY PARK WATER TRAMS Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. Admission Here’s the best pool of the lot with facilities including sau- From the 1st of May ZTM (the local public transport net- 45-65zł. nas, steam rooms, snow cabins, solariums as well as loads work) set sail on the Wisła for the summer season. The of slides and other recreational facilities. Prices range from ‘water tram’ is not only a handy way to get around, but 20-26zł/12-20zł per hour, with a reduced ticket to the spa SPA & BEAUTY Q a unique if brief way to do some sightseeing. The route Opened in 1928, Warsaw Zoo covers an area of 40 hect- available Mon-Fri until 17:00 for 20zl. ul. Merliniego 4 (Mo- off ers splendid views of many top attractions, including ALCHEMY DAY SPA ares and attracts some 500,000 visitors each year. Four kotów), tel. (+48) 22 854 01 30, www.wodnypark.com. the National Stadium, the Copernicus Science Centre, Pamper yourself at one of Warsaw’s most established day elephants, a family of seals and a lion were added to the pl. Open 06:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. (Spa open the Old Town and Royal Castle. Don’t forget to take your spas. Alchemy off ers a full range of beauty treatments current collection of reptiles, birds and tigers. Conditions 11:00-22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-22:00. Admission 27-42/20zł). copy of In Your Pocket along for the ride so that you can and relaxation therapies using some of the fi nest natural have improved dramatically in recent years, though a read up on all of these places as you glide by. products from around the globe. If the sterile, hospital- visit here will do little to change any opinions you have On the weekends you can catch the Zefi r river cruiser like look of many modern spas isn’t your thing then this is on locking animals in cages. As with every major War- out to the popular lakeside town of Serock; the trip the perfect place for you. The location itself, a 1920’s town saw landmark, the zoo has plenty of war stories. It was takes all day and leaves from Cypel Czerniakowski (H- house apartment with a great sense of history, makes you bombed at the beginning of the confl ict and by 1945 www.15-115.pl 3) at 09:00, arriving at the pier in Serock at 12:15. After feel relaxed and at home the moment you set foot in the all the animals had either been killed, deported to the a rather brief stop-over of 90 minutes the vessel heads door. Forget all the madness going on outside and just let Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. back to the big city, docking in Warsaw around 19:00. the goodness wash over you!QG-5, ul. Klonowa 20/1, tel. Q Zoo director, Jan Żabiński, became something of a hero; Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19 H-3, Cypel Czerniakowski, tel. (+48) 801 04 44 84, (+48) 22 849 32 56, www.dayspa.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, wounded during the 1944 Uprising, Żabiński helped www.ztm.waw.pl. Water tram runs Fri at 11:00, 13:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. 00-508 Warsaw save countless lives by sheltering Jewish orphans inside (vis-à-vis SMYKa) 15:00; Sat, Sun 11:00, 13:00, 15:00 and 17:00. The the grounds of the zoo. The zoo offi cially re-opened in trams end for the season on August 31. Special water FRANCK PROVOST Q tel. 22/ 468 08 68, 1949. C-1, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 501 015 115 tram tickets can be purchased for 18/9zł at departure French-trained English-speaking stylists off ering unisex 41, www.zoo.waw.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00; Sat,Sun www.15-115.pl points or on board; standard ZTM bus and tram tick- hair treatment and styling from 100zł to 350zł. Manicure 09:00 - 19:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. ets are not valid. Daytrips to Serock cost 36/18zł. and pedicure also available as well as cosmetic products Admission 20/15zł. Children under 3 years free. by L’Oreal and Kerastase. Also at ul. Puławska 25a (G-5),

110 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 111 Shopping Shopping

TAX FREE

SouSo venircity

Paris, London or New York it ain’t, but hard-core shoppers SISTER can still fi nd plenty to spend their well-earned lolly on. War- Sis will defi nitely become suspicious of your new found eye saw is seeing true growth in the array of shops available for design if you pick her up a fashionable felt bag embel- and the number of big-name labels that are opening store- lished with an embroidered traditional folk motif from the in the City. Choose from pieces by Polish artisans and fronts. Whether it’s western-style malls, designer boutiques, immensely popular and trend-setting Polish design shop ALCOHOL top designers, plus high quality jewellery made with dusty family stores or antique markets, a day spent shop- Goshico. If the bag’s a bit much, go for something smaller BODEGAS SANTA RUFINA other precious stones. Also visit they’re other high ping can result in both bargains and treasures, and there like an iPhone case from the equally cool accessories range. Under the same ownership as the La Vina tapas bar, street location at ul. Nowy Świat 59.QB-1, ul. Rynek are plenty of gifts to be had for everyone on your list (in- this little wine shop stocks about 50 refined wines Starego Miasta 9/11/13. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun cluding yourself); below we list some recommendations: CHILDREN from a number of Spanish provinces north of Madrid. 10:00 - 17:00. The fl agship store of the EMPiK department store stocks a great As well as the full range of wines from the owner’s WIFE/GIRLFRIEND range of kid’s toys and games. In the mayhem you’ll fi nd sur- own Santa Rufina vineyard, he has personally sourced ART STUDIO JEWELLERY SCHUBERT Poland is well known as THE home of amber, so grab a real Polish cuddly toys battling it out with the latest blockbuster an outstanding selection via his own personal con- There’s no end to the amber off erings you’ll fi nd near the piece of jewellery made from this Baltic treasure at the ap- movie fi gurines, both computer and board games, plus loads tacts and his passion for the wines of northern Spain. Stary Rynek, and here’s another. Helpful salespeople and propriately named World of Amber. For “Darling, I’ll love of other creative things for little tykes. For young boffi ns we Being the sole importer means that you will not find more forms of amber - - bracelets, earrings, pins, oh my! - - you forever” gifts, check out the credit card busting, luxury recommend you raid the Science Store at the Copernicus Sci- these wines anywhere else in the city. So go ahead, than you can imagine.QB-2, ul. Piwna 12/14, tel. (+48) 22 goods worlds of VITKAC or the Likus Concept Store. ence Centre; games, experiments and books for all ages await. impress your friends!QD-6, ul. Bohdanowicza 3, 635 29 38. Open 09:00 - 20:00. tel. (+48) 22 824 00 33, www.bodegassantarufina. HUSBAND/BOYFRIEND MOTHER pl. Open 15:00 - 20:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. GALERIA BURSZTYNEK One word: vodka. Another word: smalec. Take home Po- You can’t go far wrong by getting mama some of PL’s fa- Closed Sun. The Całka family have been in the amber business for land’s famous nectar and a container of savoury, spreadable mous Bolesławiec Pottery from the store of the same two generations and their love of this gift of the Bal- lard and you’ll make any man happy. Krakowski Kredens name. The mainly blue and white ‘peacock eye’ patterns EKSKLUZYWNE ALKOHOLE M&P tic coast makes Galeria Bursztynek the store to visit for carries tasty tubs of smalec (as well as dozens of other hold something of a cult status and a great range is avail- Wines and assorted alcohol from Poland and across the stunning jewellery and artefacts, all produced in their Polish foodstuff s that make perfect gifts), while you’ll fi nd able from Cepelia. The neighbours will be in awe when world.QE-3, ul. Pańska 81/83, tel. (+48) 22 652 85 22, own workshop. Not content with just selling you a popular Polish vodka brands like Żubrówka and Belvedere they drop by for tea and a gossip. www.wina-mp.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. unique souvenir from your trip to Warsaw they are also in any alcohol shop. Closed Sun. keen to educate customers about the history of amber, FATHER the craftsmanship involved in working the resin and its BROTHER If your dad is anything like ours he can lose hours of his life many uses throughout the ages. In order to do this, they What brother couldn’t use a Prussian helmet or a bobble- in interesting vintage bookshops. Warsaw is packed with AMBER & JEWELLERY have turned part of their glamorous Old Town empo- head of a long-deceased dictator? Check out our markets them, and Antykwariat Lamus is one of the best for old ART GALLERY AMBER SILVER LINE rium into a permanent and fascinating museum display. section, where places like Koło Bazar and Targowisko postcards, unique prints, old books and yellowing maps This gorgeous gallery specialises in luxury handcrafted Also at ul. Zamoyskiego 45a/2 (H-1).QB-1, ul. Długa Bakalarska promise an array of oddities and treasures that from bygone days. Remember to ask about restrictions on jewellery of the amber variety. This is the flagship loca- 8/14 lok.70, tel. (+48) 508 51 16 80, www.bursztynek. brothers will appreciate for their sheer quirk. certain pre-1945 items being taken out of the country. tion of what is the largest and oldest Amber dealers co. Open 10:00 - 20:00.

112 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 113 Shopping Shopping ANYTKWARIAT LAMUS 1 GET IT On fi rst glance you’ll spot the shelves packed with old Tax Free Shopping books and encyclopaedias and want to thumb your nose, Once youíve found that perfect item, remember to ask the shop but a further peek inside Lamus reveals bins of prints wait- As a traveler residing in a staff for a Tax Free Form when youíre paying for it. ing to be sifted through. Old Warsaw cityscapes, drawings of Polish fl ora and fauna and even the off bit of vintage non-EU country you are entitled erotica can be found by those intrepid enough to dig, and to claim back the VAT on your the walls are hung with old maps that are also for sale. Q purchases when you bring them B-1, ul. Nowomiejska 7, tel. (+48) 22 831 63 21, www. home. lamus.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. 2 STAMP IT You will find Global Blue Tax When youíre leaving the country to head home GALERIA ABO ART Free Shopping service in the or to continue your journey, take your Miniscule art gallery that sells only works by Polish artists. purchases, receipt and passport to the customs major shops of Poland. desk to get your Tax Free Form stamped. If Watercolours of Old Town landmarks, metal art, painted youíre travelling on to another EU country, get silks, glassware and jewellery all jumbled together for your the stamp on your Tax Free Form at your final perusal. A unique local off ering. Call ahead to make sure Spend a minimum of 200PLN, point of departure from the EU.

they’ll be open.QB-1, Rynek Nowego Miasta 17, tel. and save up to 12% of the (+48) 604 78 18 81, www.splendidbox.pl. Open 12:00 - purchase price. 3 REFUND 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Finally, show your stamped Tax Free Form and For more details contact: passport to our staff at Global Blue Customer LAPIDARIUM Global Blue Polska Sp. z o. o. Services or one of our partner refund points and We can (and probably have) spend hours at Lapidarium theyíll issue your refund immediately. wandering the cluttered rooms fi lled with all manner of Phone: +48 22 500 18 51 e-mail: [email protected] junk - - and we say that with love. Old uniforms, reproduc- The Global Blue Card tion propaganda posters, busts of Lenin, ancient record www.globalblue.com Your Passport to Great Savings, the World Over players and even old farm equipment fi ghts for your atten- (more information at GBís website) tion here. Give yourself time to wander and accumulate a weird selection for purchase. How to spot this place? Look GUSTAW for the antique bicycle and spindle sitting outside the MOLIERA 2 This shop cum gallery handles mostly amber and has re- entrance.QB-1, ul. Nowomiejska 15/17, tel. (+48) 509 FASHION & ACCESSORIES Exclusive two level boutique featuring collections by Val- cently expanded into gold and diamond jewellery. They are 60 18 94, www.lapidarium.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun GOSHICO entino, Salvatore Ferragamo, Christian Louboutin, Balmain, the oldest, largest and cheapest amber jeweller in the capi- 13:00 - 19:00. We can guarantee that you won’t have to walk very far before Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Moncler Gamme Rouge, Kenzo, tal and the only one approved by this sultry sap’s very own spotting one of Goshico’s handmade, felt and traditional folk de- Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s and Ralph Lauren.QB-2, ul. Mo- governing body (International Amber Association). Choose sign inspired embroidered bags on the arm of some trend-set- liera 2, tel. (+48) 22 827 70 99, www.moliera2.com. from pieces by Polish artisans and top designers. Also in the BOOKS, MUSIC & FILMS ting local. Due to the company’s phenomenal success the range Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Old Town at ul. Rynek Starego Miasta 9/11/13 (B-1).QC-3, AMERICAN BOOKSTORE continues to expand and now includes the likes of iPad/phone ul. Nowy Świat 59. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Located in the enormous Arkadia shopping complex, this cases, laptop bags and small accessories. Products are available TFH TYMCZASOWY BUTIK Closed Sun. is an excellent shop for English-language literature, though from numerous outlets around Warsaw but visit the city centre This one-time pop-up shop has set down roots fi nally, their stock is heavily infl uenced by the bestsellers list.QF- showroom to view the whole range or discuss having a custom which means you’ll know exactly where to fi nd the city’s W.KRUK 4, Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. (+48) 22 331 29 08, www. made item designed especially for you.QF-4, ul. Koszykowa hottest fashions. TFH’s new boutique displays an impressive Polish jewellery, amber and watches from various inter- americanbookstore.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 51a lok.37, tel. (+48) 501 80 88 78, www.goshico.com. Open selection of stylish t-shirts, handbags and hoodies from a national brand names including Emporio Armani, Rolex, 21:00. 09:00 - 17:00, Mon, Thu 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. variety of diff erent designers. Don’t forget to check out the Omega, Tag Heuer, Maurice Lacroix, Longines, Anne Klein. accessories and large pictorial books about - what else? Watches only available at these locations: (C-4) Pl. Trzech - fashion.QB-4, ul. Szpitalna 8, tel. (+48) 509 74 17 89. Krzyży 8 and Pl. Konstytucji 6 (F-4).QC-4, Al. Jerozolim- Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. skie 11/19, tel. (+48) 661 98 05 74, www.wkruk.pl. Open TAX FREE SHOPPING 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Non-EU residents are entitled to claim FOOD & SWEETS a VAT refund when the purchased ANTIQUES & ART GALLERIES goods are exported in an unused CUKIER LUKIER condition outside the EU in personal Warsaw’s very own Willy Wonka style boiled candy factory ANDRZEJ MLECZKO GALLERY luggage. Shop wherever you see the selling a vast range of naturally fl avoured sweets. Choose These anti-establishment, often blasphemous, damn funny Global Blue logo. The minimum to- from a great range of taste-bud tickling fl avours, includ- cartoons by Poland’s favourite cartoonist Andrzej Mleczko tal purchase value with VAT per Tax ing kiwi, rhubarb, aniseed and almost any berry you care are bound to remind you of someone you know (if you Free Form is 200pln. Keep the Tax Free Form, have it to mention. Lollipops come individually wrapped in all speak Polish, that is). Ideal for Polish friends and family, here stamped when leaving the fi nal point of departure shapes and sizes, from classic whirly-twirly designs through you can buy original works, prints, mugs, shirts, bedding to hearts and roses for that special sweet toothed person in Q from the EU and reclaim your money. For full details sets and posters. B-3, ul. Marszałkowska 140, tel. (+48) check www.global-blue.com. your life. Demonstrations of the candy making process are 795 02 98 29, www.sklep.mleczko.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. held four times a day and the whole shop can be booked

114 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 115 Shopping Shopping for private demonstrations and lollipop workshops, a great idea for a creative kid’s party.QB-4, ul. Emilii Plater 10, tel. SHOPPING MALLS (+48) 605 66 00 05, www.cukierlukier.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. FACTORY OUTLET URSUS This outlet centre is preoc- Krakowskie Przedmieście 47/51 SPECJAŁY REGIONALNE cupied with fashion, offering top brand names Mon-Fri 11.00-19.00, Sat 11.00-17.00 This restaurant and take away deli serves up meat and potatoes in all their varying Polish forms. Think Polish tapas at 30-70% discounts over THE BEST GIFT SHOP IN WARSAW! - it’s a great place to go and sample the full range of Pol- other shopping malls. Rec- ish sausage meat and ham. Take something from the del ognisable names among take home for later and wash it down with a regional wine, the brands include Desigual, Adidas, Reserved, Mango, nalewki or mead from their overfl owing alcohol cabinet. Guess and more. One of the only such outlet centres in QC-3, ul. Nowy Świat 44, tel. (+48) 662 25 42 15, www. Europe, you can access it by taking the SKM train from specjalyregionalne.pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Śródmieście and getting off at SKM Ursus, or by catching bus 127 at Dworzec Centralny and switching to bus 194 or 716 at PKP Wlochy. Your fi nal destination will be GIFTS & SOUVENIRS Ursus-Ratusz. Also at ul. Annopol 2 (Białołęka).QPl. Cz- BOLESŁAWIEC POTTERY erwca 1976r. 6 (Ursus), tel. (+48) 22 478 22 70, www. Brightly patterned hand-fi nished ceramics and tableware. factory.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. QA-4, ul. Prosta 2/14, tel. (+48) 22 624 84 08, www. ceramicboleslawiec.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat FACTORY OUTLET ANNOPOL 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. FACTORY’s second Warsaw location featuring: Nike, Adidas, • seashells, minerals and fossils Smyk, Ecco , Empik, Guess, Wrangler, Pepe Jeans and more. Q • silver and amber jewellery CEPELIA ul. Annopol 2 (Białołęka), tel. (+48) 22 441 90 00, • semiprecious stone necklaces Your fi rst stop for tacky souveniers. Amongst the tat also fi nd www.factory.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. • African and Asian handcraft traditional Polish handicrafts: table cloths, ceramics, glass Q • decorative stone products etc. Also at ul. Chmielna 8 (C-3). B-4, ul. Marszałkowska VITKAC 99/101, tel. (+48) 22 628 77 57, www.cepelia.pl. Open The giant glowing ‘Gucci’ sign will be your fi rst hint that 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. this isn’t your typical shopping centre, and the heavy security is the second. Shoppers can fi nd the popular Likus NEPTUNEA What else can you fi nd? We’ve spotted pre-war posters ad- Concept Store on the main level of the sprawling struc- SOUVENIRCITY A weird little fi nd selling decorative sea shells, minerals, vertising Polish toothpaste, early 19th century postcards, ture while labels like Givenchy, Armani, Dsquared2, Alex- in the heart of fossils, silver jewellery, oriental furniture and exotic crafts. prewar bathroom fi xtures and grandfather clocks. Vinyl re- ander McQueen, Gucci, Valention and Yves Saint Laurent Warsaw Old Town An absolute treasure, and a must visit if you’re looking cords go for as little as 1zł. The golden rule is to haggle at all are spread over the remaining four levels of shopping Świętojańska 25 street for a something a little unique.QB-2, ul. Krakowskie times. Paying the asking price means overpaying.QD-2, ul. space, with roughly three employees available for every tel. 22 185 58 98 Przedmieście 47/51, tel. (+48) 22 827 97 05, www. Obozowa 99, tel. (+48) 22 836 23 51. Open 06:00 - 18:00. browsing customer. The atmosphere is more museum opening 7 days a week neptunea.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. than mall, but if you’re looking to splurge on designer names then this is your headquarters. If maxing out your hours: 8:30 AM - 23:00 PM TARG DOBREGO JEDZENIA W FORTECY NEW Food, food and more food. Find fresh herbs and vegetables, credit card works up an appetite be sure to head to Res- classic souvenirs tauracja Concept 13, which off ers sweeping city views SOUVENIRCITY cheeses, meats, eggs straight from the chicken and eco Q and Located in the winding streets of the Old Town, this modern honey for sale. No defi nite closing hours as they stay open in a modern, open-concept space. C-4, ul. Bracka 9, BOLESŁAWIEC gift shop is the ideal place to pick up a memento of your later if people are still hanging around.QB-1, ul. Zakroc- tel. (+48) 22 310 73 13, www.vitkac.com. Open 11:00 visit to Warsaw or to snap up a few shiny and very reason- zymska 12, tel. (+48) 601 13 58 01, www.kregliccy.pl. - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. traditional polish pottery ably priced trinkets for ‘them back home’. Fridge magnets, key Open Wed only 08:00 - 17:00. rings, fi gurines, t-shirts and a whole host of other items em- ZŁOTE TARASY blazoned with the words ‘Warsaw’ or ‘Polska’ fi ll the store. They TARGOWISKO BAKALARSKA Located next to the central train station, the Złote Tarasy are also the only shop in the area to stock a great selection of Prior to the building of Warsaw’s new National Stadium complex signals a bold shift away from the out-of-town products from the legendary Bolesławiec pottery (JPII’s papal the site was home to the famous communist era Stadion malls found in Warsaw, and features familiar stores like pottery of choice) - you’ll recognise the patterns as soon as Dziesięciolecia (10th Anniversary Stadium), a monstrous, Marks & Spencers, Aldo, Poland’s fi rst Body Shop, Hugo you see them!QB-2, ul. Świętojańska 23/25, tel. (+48) 22 crumbling stadium which spent its last years as a huge out- Boss, Van Graf and EMPiK. For leisure, visitors can not 185 58 98, www.souvenir-city.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00. door market. After the market closed many of the vendors re- only visit Poland’s fi rst Hard Rock Café which is split over located here, making it the capital’s largest, most diverse daily 2 levels, but also a multiplex cinema and more than 20 outdoor market. Expect to fi nd loads of tat, clothes, foodstuff s, restaurants and bars spread over 5 levels. Designed by NAL PRO MARKETS Jerde Partnership International, the central showpiece is IGI DU perfumes, toys and a few oddities of dubious origin. With over R C O T WITH THIS AD ON ALL KOŁO BAZAR 500 pavilions and 700 market stalls, it’s a fun place to just wan- a 10,000m glass dome, fi tted with a special mechanism

ITEMS to both ﬁ lter sunrays and to stop snow from building

Quality ﬂ ea market held each weekend from dawn till dusk. der around and soak up the atmosphere. To get there take

M Q

D -10% IN THE

D up. A-4, ul. Złota 59, tel. (+48) 22 222 22 00, www.

N Attracting buyers and sellers from across the country this is bus 141, 189 or 401 to the ‘Hynka’ stop; or trams 7, 9, or 15 to E

I N O

P DISCOUNT STORE exactly the place if you’ve ever wanted to own a Prussian ‘Włochy-Ratusz’. Qul. Bakalarska 11 (Włochy), tel. (+48) 22 zlotetarasy.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. helmet or set of palace doors from India (yours for 16,000zł). 846 51 79, www.naszrynek.eu. Open 07:00 - 16:00.

116 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 117 Directory Directory SOUND GARDEN CONFERENCE CENTER 24-HOUR DENTISTS QD-7, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 18, tel. (+48) 22 279 14 07, EX-PAT ORGANIZATIONS POST OFFICES CCS LUDNAQG-3, ul. Ludna 10a, tel. (+48) 22 625 01 www.soundgardenhotel.pl. ALCOHOLICS ANONYMOUS POCZTA POLSKAQC-4, Pl. Trzech Krzyży 13, tel. (+48) 02, www.ccsludna.pl. QB-4, ul. Radna 14 fl at 3, www.warsawaa.org. 22 629 81 67, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. DENTALUXQD-6, ul. Racławicka 131, tel. (+48) 22 823 CONSULATES & EMBASSIES FANTASY ROLE-PLAYING GROUP 72 22, www.dentalux.pl. AUSTRALIAQB-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 11, tel. (+48) 22 [email protected]. POCZTA POLSKAQA-3, ul. Świętokrzyska 31/33, tel. 521 34 44, www.australia.pl. (+48) 22 505 32 18, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 24hrs. INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S GROUP OF WARSAW 24-HOUR PHARMACIES AUSTRIAQH-5, ul. Gagarina 34, tel. (+48) 22 841 00 81, Qwww.iwgwarsaw.eu. APTEKAQG-5, ul. Puławska 39, tel. (+48) 22 849 82 05, www.ambasadaaustrii.pl. PRIVATE CLINICS www.apteka.jollymed.pl. TOASTMASTERS CLUB DAMIAN HOSPITALQG-3, ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. (+48) 22 CANADAQC-4, ul. Matejki 1/5, tel. (+48) 22 584 31 00, Qtel. (+48) 696 292 451, www.toastmasters.org.pl. 566 22 22, www.damian.pl. APTEKA BEATAQE-2, Al. Solidarności 149, tel. (+48) www.canada.pl. 22 620 08 18. LUX-MEDQA-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Ho- FRANCEQG-4, ul. Piękna 1, tel. (+48) 22 529 30 00, GENEALOGY tel), tel. (+48) 22 33 22 888, www.luxmed.pl. www.ambafrance-pl.org. NATIONAL ARCHIVEQB-1, ul. Krzywe Koło 7, tel. BUSINESS ASSOCIATIONS (+48) 22 635 92 68, www.warszawa.ap.gov.pl. AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE GERMANYQG-4, ul. Jazdów 12, tel. (+48) 22 584 17 00, REAL ESTATE QF-3, Warsaw Financial Centre, ul. Emilii Plater 53, tel. www.warszawa.diplo.de. REGISTRY OFFICEQE-1, ul. Andersa 5, tel. (+48) 22 KNIGHT FRANKQC-3, ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. (+48) (+48) 22 520 59 99, www.amcham.pl. 443 12 30, www.um.warszawa.pl. 22 596 50 50, www.knightfrank.com.pl. IRELANDQC-4, ul. Mysia 5, tel. (+48) 22 849 66 33, BRITISH POLISH CHAMBER OF COMMERCE www.embassyofi reland.pl. LOCO REAL ESTATE AGENCYQA-4, ul. Sienna 72A QB-4, ul. Marszałkowska 89, www.bpcc.org.pl. INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS lok. 1101, tel. (+48) 515 00 01 45, www.n-loco.com. ISRAELQF-4, ul. Krzywickiego 24, tel. (+48) 22 597 05 AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW 00, www.israel.pl. Qul. Warszawska 202, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. (+48) 22 OBER-HAUS REAL ESTATE ADVISORS CONFERENCE CENTRES 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org. QF-4, ul. Koszykowa 59 lok. 2, tel. (+48) 502 10 10 60, NATIONAL STADIUMQH-2, Al. Ks. J. Poniatowskiego ITALYQF-2, Pl. Dąbrowskiego 6, tel. (+48) 22 826 34 71, www.ober-haus.pl. 1, tel. (+48) 22 295 95 55, [email protected], www.ambvarsavia.esteri.it. ECOLE ANTOINE DE SAINT-EXUPÉRY en.stadionnarodowy.org.pl. Qul. Nobla 16 (Praga Południe), tel. (+48) 22 616 14 99, TERRANUMQtel. (+48) 662 65 69 30, biuro@terranum. LITHUANIAQG-3, Al. Ujazdowskie 14, tel. (+48) 22 625 www.saint-exupery.pl. pl, www.terranum.pl. 33 68, pl.mfa.lt. INTERNATIONAL AMERICAN SCHOOL CURRENCY EXCHANGE NETHERLANDSQH-4, ul. Kawalerii 10, tel. (+48) 22 Qul. Dembego 18 (Ursynów), tel. (+48) 22 649 14 40, RELIGIOUS SERVICES 559 12 00, www.nlembassy.pl. www.ias.edu.pl. ST PAUL’S ENGLISH SPEAKING CATHOLIC PARISHQC-3, ul. Radna 14, tel. (+48) 600 38 49 16, NORWAYQG-4, ul. Chopina 2a, tel. (+48) 22 696 40 30, INTERNATIONAL EUROPEAN SCHOOL www.warsawcatholics.pl. www.amb-norwegia.pl. Qul. Wiertnicza 140 (Wilanów), tel. (+48) 22 842 44 48, www.ies-warsaw.pl. RUSSIAQG-5, ul. Belwederska 49, tel. (+48) 22 621 34 RELOCATION COMPANIES 53, www.rusemb.pl. PRE-SCHOOL THREE LANGUAGES AGS WORLDWIDE MOVERSQul. Julianowska 37, QC-2, ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 and 2, tel. (+48) 503 07 21 Piaseczno, tel. (+48) 22 702 10 72, www.agsmovers.com. SPAINQG-4, ul. Myśliwiecka 4, tel. (+48) 22 583 40 00, 19, www.3languages.pl. Q Currency exchange offi ces (‘Kantor’) are easy to fi nd www.exteriores.gob.es. MOVE ONE RELOCATIONS F-4, Al. Jerozolimskie Q in Warsaw, but as with any international destination, THE BRITISH SCHOOL ul. Limanowskiego 15 (Mo- 65/79, tel. (+48) 22 630 81 69, www.moveoneinc.com. Q it’s imperative to check the rates to ensure you aren’t SWEDEN G-5, ul. Bagatela 3, tel. (+48) 22 640 89 00, kotów), tel. (+48) 22 842 32 81, www.thebritishschool.pl. Q getting fl eeced. The general rule is you should never www.swedenabroad.com/warsaw. PRO RELOCATION B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. change your money at city entry points, particularly at THE ENGLISH PLAYHOUSE (+48) 22 630 61 00, www.prorelo.com. Q Q the airport where the rates are almost criminal. To help UNITED KINGDOM G-4, ul. Kawalerii 12, tel. (+48) ul. Płyćwiańska 14A (Mokotów), tel. (+48) 22 843 93 put your mind and your wallet at ease, we’ve assem- 22 311 00 00, www.gov.uk/government/world/poland. 70, www.theenglishplayhouse.com. TRANSLATORS bled a list of well-located exchange offi ces that won’t Q rip you off , and don’t take a commission. USA G-4, Al. Ujazdowskie 29/31, tel. (+48) 22 504 20 & INTERPRETERS Q Q 00, poland.usembassy.gov. LANGUAGE SCHOOLS AGENCJA MAART C-3, ul. Gałczyńskiego 3, tel. AUREX C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 33, tel. (+48) 22 626 EDU&MOREQB-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 44 lok.7, tel. (+48) (+48) 22 480 88 00, www.maart.com. 92 60, www.aurex.biz. Open 24 hrs. 22 622 14 41, www.polishonlinenow.com. KANTORQA-4, Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59 (level 0), EMERGENCY ROOMS AWANGARDA Q tel. (+48) 22 222 12 34. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun SZPITAL KLINICZNY DZIECIĄTKA JEZUS THE CENTRE FOR POLISH STUDIES B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 33/11 (5th fl oor), tel. (+48) 22 Q Q 09:00 - 21:00. A-4, ul. Lindleya 4, tel. (+48) 22 502 20 00, www. B-3, ul. Szpitalna 5/213, tel. (+48) 22 826 19 04, www. 629 92 44, www.awangarda.pl. szpital-clo.med.pl. learnpolish.edu.pl.

118 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 119 Hotels Hotels Warsaw is a business city first and foremost, and oc- SOFITEL WARSAW VICTORIA Are you tired of staying in standard hotels? cupancy rates reflect that. Prices dip the moment the QB-3, ul. Królewska 11, tel. (+48) 22 657 80 11, www. MEET THE CONCIERGE Feel at home in P&O Apartments in Warsaw. clock hits Friday, 5pm, and you’ll find some great dis- sofi tel-victoria-warsaw.com. 343 rooms (160 singles,

P&O Apartments offers you accommodation for rent counts available if you hunt around online. A good 170 doubles, 52 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). PTH6UFLKDC hhhhh in the center of the City for overnight stays or for lon- place to start is at poland.inyourpocket.com where ger visits and helps you to feel at home in Warsaw. our Hotel Calculator scours booking engines for the best rates based on your criteria (you can thank us THE WESTIN WARSAW HOTEL We offer professional service, quality and excellent later). The Warsaw hotel market reflects the city’s image QA-3, Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. (+48) 22 450 80 00, www. locations as well as competitive pricing. as the corporate briefcase of Eastern Europe and comes westin.pl/en. 361 rooms (345 singles, 345 doubles, 15 well equipped with five star offerings as well as a new suites, 1 Presidential Suite). PTH6UFKD land line +48 22 219 51 06, breed of options for thrifty travellers. Warsaw now has a hhhhh mobile +48 513 103 341 group of Golden Keys concierges and their tips for the e-mail: [email protected] coming months can be found in our Ask the Concierge Internet: www.pandoapartments.com.pl box. UPMARKET Warsaw, considered one of the greenest capitals in Eu- HILTON WARSAW HOTEL & CONVENTION rope, has so much to off er to guests coming to explore CENTRE Q the city. Why not take advantage of the wonderful CREAM OF THE CROP E-3, ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. (+48) 22 356 55 55, summertime, perfect for sightseeing, to see the beauty HOTEL BRISTOL WARSAW www.warsaw.hilton.com. 314 rooms (303 singles, of the Warsaw outdoors? QC-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. (+48) 303 doubles, 10 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). PTH6UFLKDCw hhhh On Saturday evenings I sincerely recommmend the 22 551 10 00, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl. 206 rooms famous “Jazz Na Starówce” (20th Jazz In The Old Town) (168 singles, 168 doubles, 37 apartments, 1 Paderewski Festival jazz event. In the very heart of the Old Town, on Suite). PTH6UFKDC hhhhh MERCURE WARSZAWA CENTRUM Q its main square, each Saturday at 7 pm (July and Au- A-4, ul. Złota 48/54, tel. (+48) 22 697 39 99, www. gust) open air jazz concerts are held. Among the artists INTERCONTINENTAL mercure.com. 338 rooms (23 singles, 305 doubles, 10 Q PTH6UFLKD hhhh that will perform this year, you will fi nd big names such A-4, ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. (+48) 22 328 88 88, www. suites). as Urszula Dudziak Superband, Roy Hargrove Quintet, warsaw.intercontinental.com. 414 rooms (336 singles, Ofi r Schwartz Trio and others. Make sure you make a 336 doubles, 78 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). MERCURE WARSZAWA GRAND PTH6UFLKDCw hhhhh Q booking in advance at one of Warsaw Old Town pre- C-4, ul. Krucza 28, tel. (+48) 22 583 21 00, www. miere restaurants, so then you enjoy both an excellent mercure.com. 299 rooms (86 singles, 207 doubles, 6 meal and drink while listening to live music. MAMAISON HOTEL LE REGINA WARSAW apartments). PTH6UFK hhhh Q Another event worth noting are the famous concerts of B-1, ul. Kościelna 12, tel. (+48) 22 531 60 00, www. Fryderyk Chopin music which since 1959 have been or- mamaison.com. 61 rooms (58 singles, 58 doubles, 1 NOVOTEL WARSZAWA CENTRUM Q ganized in Łazienki Park under the statue to the famous Penthouse, 1 Le Regina Suite, 1 Presidential Suite). B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. (+48) 22 596 00 Polish composer. The concerts are given every Sunday PTHUFKDC hhhhh 00, www.accorhotels.com. 742 rooms (50 singles, 679 PTHUFKD at midday and at 4 pm. The atmosphere is truly unique. doubles, 12 suites, 1 apartment). Relax on the grass and you will feel as if you are far away MARRIOTT hhhh Q from civilization and your day-to-day routine, while still B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. (+48) 22 630 63 06, being in the centre of the city. After the concert why not www.warsawmarriott.pl. 523 rooms (428 singles, 427 POLONIA PALACE HOTEL take a walk along the Royal Route towards Old Town and doubles, 31 suites, 60 apartments, 3 Vice Presidential QB-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. (+48) 22 318 28 00, PTH6UFLK make a stop at Hotel Bristol, founded in 1901 by another Suites, 1 Presidential Suite). www.poloniapalace.com. 206 rooms (198 singles, 198 famous Polish composer Ignacy Jan Paderewski. During DCw hhhhh doubles, 7 suites, 1 apartment). PTH6UFK Dw hhhh the summer you can sit on the terrace and enjoy live DJ music (Tuesday-Friday from 8 pm), selecting wines REGENT WARSAW HOTEL Q originating in the best known vineyards of the world G-5, ul. Belwederska 23, tel. (+48) 22 558 12 34, www. and accompanied by a wide choice of foods, including regent-warsaw.com. 246 rooms (88 singles, 129 dou- SYMBOL KEY local Polish cheeses. The wines and champagnes have bles, 17 suites, 1 Diplomatic Suite, 1 Presidential Suite). PTH6UFLKDXCw hhhh P N been handpicked by Robert Mielżyński, the most fa- Air conditioning Credit cards not accepted mous wine personality in Poland. More information can T Child-friendly H Conference facilities be found at hotelbristolwarsaw.pl. RIALTO If you need more recommendations please contact the Q F U F-4, ul. Wilcza 73, tel. (+48) 22 584 87 00, www.rialto. Fitness centre Facilities for the disabled Warsaw concierge at your hotel. We will be more than pl. 44 rooms (6 singles, 27 doubles, 11 apartments). For sun lovers we offer properties for PTH6UFKD hhhhh K Restaurant L Guarded parking on site happy to assist you in planning your stay. We will also Sale & Rental ensure that your visit to Warsaw is unforgettable, so on the Costa Del Sol in Spain. D w Visit our new and modern office Sauna Wellness that you will wish to return soon to draw from the spirit SHERATON WARSAW HOTEL in Marbella on Costa del Sol or call us Q 6 X of the city again. C-4, ul. Prusa 2, tel. (+48) 22 450 61 00, www.sheraton. Animal friendly Smoking rooms available Michał Borowiak +34 663 652 145; +34951245424 pl/en. 350 rooms (326 singles, 326 doubles, 18 suites, C PTH6U Swimming pool Head Concierge at Hotel Bristol, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Internet: www.pandoapartments.es 5 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). Warsaw FLKD hhhhh email: [email protected] Y WarsawPass tourist discount card Member of Les Clefs d’Or since 2010

120 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 121 Hotels Hotels RADISSON BLU CENTRUM HOTEL THE STORY OF SYRENKA QA-3, ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. (+48) 22 321 88 88, www. Stay up-to-date HOTEL CALCULATOR radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw. 311 rooms (284 singles,

The fi rst known mention of a mermaid as the symbol of 284 doubles, 26 apartments, 1 Presidential Apartment). Get the Best Rates on poland.inyourpocket.com PTH6UFKDCw hhhhh facebook.com/ Warsaw can be traced to a royal seal dated from 1390, WarsawInYourPocket The concept of In Your Pocket has always been though this one certainly wasn’t much to look at; de- to provide our readers and website users with as picting a hideous looking bloke with a dragons tail was RADISSON BLU SOBIESKI HOTEL Q much relevant information as possible about the as close as you’d come to seeing a marketing blooper E-3, Pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. (+48) 22 579 10 00, www. city they are visiting and to allow them to make in medieval times, so it’s no surprise that over the next radissonblu.com/sobieski-warsaw. 435 rooms (60 sin- up your own minds. In addition to the hundreds of few centuries this rather grim form was given a bit of gles, 328 doubles, 40 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). APARTMENTS PTH6UK hhhh hotel listings, with full descriptions and up-to-date plastic surgery – man was turned into woman, and the P&O APARTMENTS Q details (researched every 2-4 months), available on dragon became a fi sh. B-2, ul. Miodowa 12 lok.22, tel. (+48) 513 10 33 41, our website - poland.inyourpocket.com - we also www.pandoapartments.com.pl. 60 rooms (60 apart- off er a hotel price comparison function on our The legend has been debated and disputed scores of MID-RANGE ments). 6 times, and it’s safe to say short of inventing time travel website. Called HotelCalculator, this free service BEST WESTERN HOTEL FELIX compares hotel prices for the nights selected from we’re not going to become any of the wiser. Until that Qul. Omulewska 24 (Praga Południe), tel. (+48) 22 RESIDENCE ST. ANDREW’S PALACE time content yourselves instead by familiarizing yourself Q across dozens of diff erent web booking engines 210 70 00, www.bwfelix.pl. 228 rooms (96 singles, 121 B-4, ul. Chmielna 30, tel. (+48) 22 826 46 40, www. such as bookings.com, activehotels.com, laterooms. with the myth. First off is the one you’ll fi nd espoused doubles, 5 triples, 3 suites). TH6ULK hhh residencestandrews.pl. 24 rooms (24 apartments). within these humble pages; Prince Kazimierz, while PT com and hoteladvisor.com. You are then presented hunting in the marshlands that are now Warsaw, lost his with the best rates available online, which are often BEST WESTERN HOTEL PORTOS well below the offi cial rack rates. Once you select the bearings and faced a night in the open. Miraculously, a QH-7, ul. Mangalia 3a, tel. (+48) 22 207 60 00, www. ROOMMATE APARTMENTS mermaid emerged and guided the prince to safety by fi r- Q rate you want, you are transferred to the relevant bwportos.pl. 230 rooms (230 singles, 156 doubles, 8 B/C-4, ul. Hoża 27A/9, tel. (+48) 608 38 86 71, www. site, through which you book directly. It couldn’t ing burning arrows into the sky. Warsaw was founded out suites). TH6ULK hhh myroommate.pl. 8 rooms (8 apartments). TU of gratitude, and the mermaid adopted as its emblem. be simpler, more eff ective or more in keeping with our policy of providing unbiased information to our CAMPANILE NEW Story B, however, suggests that the Warsaw mermaid Q readers. Take a look at poland.inyourpocket.com the originally hailed from foreign climes. Accompanied by E-3, ul. Towarowa 2, tel. (+48) 22 582 72 00, www. WARSAW OVERNIGHT next time you are searching for a room in Poland and campanile.com.pl. 194 rooms (194 singles, 194 dou- Qtel. (+48) 883 11 77 42, www.warsawovernight.pl. 11 her twin sister the pair swam across the Baltic Sea, ar- PT6UK hhh P6U see what In Your Pocket with HotelCalculator can fi nd riving in Gdańsk. Here the sisters split, one swimming bles). rooms (11 apartments). for you. to Copenhagen and the other down the Wisła, fi nally CASTLE INN wriggling out of the bit of water bordering the old town. Q HOSTELS Local fi shermen soon noticed someone tampering with B-2, ul. Świętojańska 2 (entrance from Pl. Zamkowy), IN YOUR POCKET MOBILE their nets, freeing the fi sh in the process, and teamed tel. (+48) 22 425 01 00, www.castleinn.pl. 22 rooms (3 HOSTEL 36 singles, 18 doubles, 1 triple). TH6 Qul. Bokserska 36 (Mokotów), tel. (+48) 22 207 90 00, up to catch this pesky vandal once and for all. They In Your Pocket is now available on all smartphones www.hostel36.pl. 144 rooms (83 singles, 58 doubles). soon changed their minds once they saw her, and her via our responsive mobile platform, found at GOLDEN TULIP WARSAW CENTRE T6 siren like singing voice soon made her a fi rm favourite m.inyourpocket.com. Featuring more than 100 cities QE-3, ul. Towarowa 2, tel. (+48) 22 582 75 00, www. among the lads. All except for one, a greedy merchant across Europe, In Your Pocket Mobile is an invaluable goldentulipwarsawcentre.com. 143 rooms (142 singles, 142 OKI DOKI who decided to trap her and take her on tour, Elephant resource which puts our unrivalled content together doubles, 1 apartment). PTH6UFKD hhhh QB-3, Pl. Dąbrowskiego 3, tel. (+48) 22 828 01 22, www. Man-style, round the sideshows of Poland. His plan was with the technical capabilities of today’s smartphones. okidoki.pl. 37 rooms (1 single, 14 doubles, 2 triples, 8 soon foiled though after the son of a fi sherman heard In Your Pocket Mobile allows you to view all venues in a IBIS WARSZAWA CENTRUM quads, 100 dorm beds). T6G her haunting voice wailing from a shed. Alerted to her city on a map, quickly showing which are the closest QD-2, Al. Solidarności 165, tel. (+48) 22 520 30 00, kidnap the fi sherman hatched a daring plan to free her, to your current location. Smart fi lters can be used to www.accorhotels.com. 189 rooms (189 singles, 189 and in thanks to the townspeople who rescued her the ensure that only those places which matter to you are doubles). PTH6UK hh AIRPORT HOTELS Syrenka swore to make it her life’s mission to protect War- displayed. You can also leave comments about venues, COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT WARSAW AIRPORT saw. It’s this defensive stance of hers which explains why as well as rate them, right in the mobile platform. You MDM Qul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 01 00, you’ll see her armed to the teeth with a sword and shield. can even share your comments with your friends via QF-4, Pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. (+48) 22 339 16 00, www. www.courtyardwarsawairport.com. 236 rooms (113 sin- the most popular social networks. Point your phone’s Finally, you’ve got a third story to believe: back in an- hotelmdm.com.pl. 134 rooms (21 singles, 108 doubles, gles, 121 doubles, 2 apartments). PTHUFK web browser to m.inyourpocket.com now. cient times the city was defended by a noble griffi n 5 suites). TH6UK hhh hhhh who would frequently accompany fi shermen on their forays to the Baltic. It was during one such journey he METROPOLQF-3, ul. Marszałkowska 99a, tel. (+48) 22 HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS WARSAW AIRPORT met a mermaid. Love took its course and she returned 325 31 00, www.hotelmetropol.com.pl. 192 rooms (176 Qul. Poleczki 31 (Ursynów), tel. (+48) 22 373 37 00, to Warsaw where the two lived happily in the company singles, 176 doubles, 16 suites). T6UK hhh www.hiex-wa.com. 124 rooms (124 singles, 124 dou- of the locals. When the Swedes invaded Poland the grif- bles). PTHU hhh fi n was mortally wounded during the siege of Warsaw, and it was left to the Syrenka to pick up his arms and BUDGET SOUND GARDEN HOTEL join the defence of the city. Out of gratitude the people START HOTEL ATOS QD-7, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 18, tel. (+48) 22 279 14 11, of Warsaw chose to appoint her as the icon of the town, QH-7, ul. Mangalia 1, tel. (+48) 22 207 70 00, www. www.soundgardenhotel.pl. 206 rooms (201 singles, 161 placing her image on the city coat of arms. hotelatos.pl. 231 rooms (231 singles, 106 doubles, 109 doubles, 5 apartments). PH6U hhh triples). TH6ULK hh

122 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket August - September 2014 123 1 - ul. Nowomiejska Street Register 2 - ul. Piesza 3 - ul. Fandaminskiego

1 Sierpnia D-6/7 Górnośląska H-3 Lwowska F-4 Płatowcowa E-6 Śliska A-4 29 Listopada H-4 Górska H-5/6 Łazienkowska H-4 Platynowa E-3 Świętojańska B-2 Aleje Ujazdowskie C-4, (G-3/5) Górskiego B/C-3 Łucka A-3 (E-3) Podchorążych G/H-5 Świętojerska A/B-1/2 (E/F-1) Andersa, gen. A-1/2 (E-1/2) Goszczyńskiego F/G-6 Madalińskiego F/G-5/6 Podwale B-1/2 (F-1) Świętokrzyska B/C-3 (E/G-2/3) 3 Anielewicza A-2 (D/E-1/2) Goworka G-5 Majewskiego D-5 Pokorna A-1 Tagore’a F-6 Archiwalna D-5 Graniczna B-3 Małachowskiego, pl. B-3 Polna F/G-4 Tamka C-3 (G-2) Armii Ludowej, al. F/H-4 Grodzka C-2 Malczewskiego F/G-6 Poniatowskiego, ks. Al. H-2 Targowa G/H-1 Bagatela G-4/5 Grójecka D/E-4/6 Mariańska A-3 Powązkowska D-1 Teatralny, pl. B-2 (F-2) Bagno B-3 Grzybowska A-3 (E/F-2/3) Mariensztat C-2 Powstańców Warszawy, pl. B-3 Tłomackie A/B-2 2 Banachago D/E-5 Grzybowski, pl. A/B-3 Markowska H-1 Poznańska B-4 (F-3) Tokarzewskiego-Karaszewicza Bankowy, pl. A-2 (F-2) Grzymały D-4 Marszałkowska B-2/4 (F-2/4) Promenada G-5/6 B-2/3 Barbary, św. B-4, (F-3) Hoża B/C-4 (F/G-3) Matejki C-4 Prosta A-4 (D/E-3) Topiel C-3 Barokowa B-2 Hynka D-7 Mazowiecka B-3 (F-2) Próżna B-3 Towarowa D/E-2/3 Barona D-2 Idzikowskiego G/H-6/7 Miączyńska E-6/7 Prusa C-4 Traugutta B/C-3 Batorego E/F-5 Infl ancka A-1 Miedziana A-4 (E-3) Pruszkowska D-6 Trębacka B-2 Bednarska B/C-2 Iwicka H-5 Miła A-1 (D/E-1) Przechodnia A-2/3 Trojdena, ks. D/E-5 Bellottiego D-2 Jaktorowska D-3 Miłobędzka E-6 Przemyska D-5 Trzech Krzyży, pl. C-4 (G-3) Belwederska G-5/6 Jana Pawła II, al. A-2/4, (D/E-1/3) Miodowa B-2 (F-1) Przyokopowa D-3 Tuwima C-3 Warsaw 1 Biała A-3 (E-2) Jana Sobieskiego G/H-5/6 Mireckiego D-2 Przyrynek B-1 Twarda A-3/4 (E-3) Uprising Białobrzeska D-4/5 Jasielska D-6 Mirowski, pl. A-3 (E-2) Ptasia A/B-3 (F-2) Tyniecka G-6/7 Monument Bielańska B-2 (F-2) Jasna B-3, (F-2/3) Młynarska D-2 Puławska G-5/7 Unii Lubelskiej, pl. G-4/5 Little Krasiński Insurgent Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. D-4/5 Jazdów G-4 Mokotowska C-4 (G-3/4) Pułku Baszta F-7 Ursynowska F/G-6 Palace Monument Bobrowskiego D-5 Jerozolimskie, Al. Mołdawska D-6 Pytlasińskiego G-6 Wał Miedzeszyński H-2/3 Boduena B-3 A/C-3/4, (D/G-2/4) Moliera B-2 (F-2) Racławicka D/E-6 Walecznych H-2 Bohaterów Getta A-2 (E/F-1) Joliot-Curie F-7 Moniuszki B-3 Radna C-3 Waliców A-3 (E-2/3) Bohdanowicza D-6 Kacza D-2 Mostowa B-1 (F-1) Rajców B-1 Wałowa A-1/2 (E-1) Boleść B-1 Kaliska D-4 Muranowska A-1 (E-1) Rakowiecka E/G-5 Warecka B/C-3 (F-2) Bonifraterska A/B-1 Kanonia B-2 Mysia C-4 Raszyńska E-4 Waryńskiego F/G-4/5 The St. Anne's Bracka C-4 Kapitulna B-2 Myśliwiecka G/H-4 Rejtana G-5 Wąski Dunaj B-2 Mostowski Armoury Browarna C-2/3 (G-2) Karasia C-3 Na Rozdrożu, pl. G-4 Rokitnicka E-5 Wawelska D/F-4 Palace Brylowska D-3 Karmelicka A-2 (E-1/2) Na Skarpie, al. G-3 Rostafi ńskich E-5 Widok B-4 Warsaw City Hall Brzeska H-1 Karolkowa D-2/3 Nabielaka G-5 Róż, al. G-4 Wiecha Pasaż B-3/4 Brzozowa B-1 Karowa C-2 (F/G-2) Nalewki A-1/2 Różana F/G-5/6 Wiejska C-4 (G-3) Bugaj B-1/2 Kasprzaka D-3 Narbutta F/G-5 Rozbrat G-3 Wierzbowa B-2 (F-2) Bytnara F-6/7 Kazimierzowska F-5 Narutowicza, pl. D-4 Rycerska B-2 Wiktorska F/G-6 The Great Canaletta B-2 Kępna H-1 Nehru H-5 Rynek Nowego Miasta B-1 (F-1) Wilanowska H-3 National Celna B-1/2 Kilińskiego B-1/2 Niecała B-2, (F-2) Rynek Starego Miasta B-1/2 Wilcza B/C-4 (F/G-3/4) Theatre Chałubińskiego A/B-4 (F-3/4) Klonowa G-5 Niemcewicza D/E-4 Rysia B-3 Wileński pl. G-1 Błękitny Chełmska H-6 Kłopotowskiego G-1 Niepodległości, al. F/G-4 Sandomierska G-5 Willowa G-5 Palace Chłodna A-3 (D/E-2) Kolberga F-7 Niska A-1, (D/E-1) Sanguszki B-1 Winnicka D-5 Chmielna A-4, B/C-3/4, (E-3, F-3) Kolejowa D/E-3/4 Niska D/E-1 Sanocka D-5/6 Wioślarska H-3 Chocimska G-5 Konduktorska G-6 Niżyńskiego Pasaż B-3 Sapieżyńska A/B-1 Wiślana C-2 Tomb of the Unknown Chodkiewicza E-5/6 Konopnickiej C-4 Nowiniarska B-1 Sasanki D-7 Wiślicka D-5/6 Soldier Chopina G-4 Konstytucji, pl. F-4 Nowogrodzka A/C-4 (E/F-3) Senatorska B-2 (F-1/2) Wiśniowa F/G-5, F/G-6 Warsaw Ciasna B-1 Konwiktorska A/B-1 Nowolipie A-2 (E-2) Schillera B-2 (F-1) Witosa, al. H-6/7 University Ciepła A-3 (E-2) Kopernika C-3 Nowolipki A-2 (D/E-1/2) Siedmiogrodzka D-3 Wodna B-1 Cicha C-3 Kopińska D-4 Nowowiejska E/G-4 Sielecka H-5/6 Wójtowska B-1 Lubomirski Corazziego B-2 Korotyńskiego D-6 Nowy Świat C-3/4 (G-2/3) Siemieńskiego D-5 Wolność D-2 Palace Czackiego B-3 (F-2) Kościelna B-1 (E/F-1) Oboźna C-3 Sienkiewicza B-3 Wołoska E/F-6/7 Czerniakowska G/H-3 Koszykowa E/G-4 Obozowa D-2 Sienna A-4 (E-3) Wolska D-3 Czerska H-5/6 Kotlarska D/E-2/3 Oczki E/F-3/4 Skaryszewska H-1 Woronicza E/G-7 Czeska H-2 Kozia B-2 Odolańska F/G-6 Skarżyńskiego D-5 Wronia E-2/3 Dąbrowskiego, pl. B-3 (F/G-6) Koźla B-1 (F-1) Odyńca F/G-6 Skierniewicka D-3 Wspólna A/C-4 (F-3) Dawna B-1/2 Krakowskie Przedmieście Ogrodowa A-3 (E-2) Skorochód D-5/6 Wybrzeże Gdańskie Defi lad, pl. B-4 (F-3) B/C-2/3, (F-2) Okólnik C-3 Sławińska D-3/4 B/C-1/2, (F-1) Radisson BLU Chopin Dickensa D-5 Krasickiego F/G-7 Okopowa 1/2-D Słoneczna G-5 Wybrzeże Helskie C-1 (G-1) Museum Długa A/B-1/2 (F-1) Krasińskich, pl. B-2 (F-1) Okrąg G/H-3 Słupecka D-4 Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie Długosza D-2 Krasnołęcka H-5 Okrzei G-1 Smocza D/E-1/2 C-2, (G-1/2) Dobra C-2/3 (G-1/2) Kredytowa B-3 (F-2) Oleandrów F/G-4 Smolna C-3/4 Wybrzeże Szczecińskie Dobrzańskiego A-3 Krochmalna A-3 (E-2) Olimpijska E-6 Sokola G/H-1/2 C-1/2, (G-1/2) Dolna G-6 Królewska B-3 (F-2) Olkuska G-6 Solec G/H-2/3 Ząbkowska H-1 Boutique Drewniana C-3 Krucza C-4 (F/G-3) Olszewska G-5 Solidarności, al. Zajęcza C-3 (G-2) Dubois A-1 (E-1) Kruczkowskiego C-3 (G-2) Olszowa G-1 A/C-1/3, (D/G-1/2) Zakroczymska B-1 Dzielna A-2 (D/E-1/2) Krywulta C-3 Ondraszka E-4/5 Sosnowa A-4 Zamenhofa A-1/2 (E-1) Dzika D/E-1 Krzywe Koło B-1 Opolski, pl. D-2 Spacerowa G-5 Zamkowy, pl. B-2 (F-1) Elektoralna A-2/3 (E-2) Krzywickiego E-4 Ordynacka C-3 (G-2) Spartańska E-7 Zamoyskiego H-1 Polish Army Emilii Plater A/B-3/4 (F-3) Książęca C-4 (G-3) Orla A-2/3 (E-2) Spiska D/E-4 Zapiecek B-2 Mercure National Museum Warszawa Esperanto E-1/2 Kubusia Puchatka C-3 Orłowicza G-3 Srebrna F-3 Zawiszy, pl. E-3 Centrum Museum Etiudy Rewolucyjnej E-7 Kusocińskiego G/H-4 Ossolińskich B-2 Stara B-1 Zbawiciela, pl. F-4 Filtrowa E-4 Kwiatowa F-5 Padewska G-6 Starościńska F/G-5 Zbierska G/H-5/6 Floriańska G-1 Lądowa G-5 Panieńska G-1 Starynkiewicza, pl. E-3 Zgoda B-3/4 Foksal C-3 (G-3) Lechicka D-7 Pańska A-3/4 (E-3) Staszica D-2 Zieleniecka, al. H-1/2 Franciszkańska A/B-1 Lenartowicza F/G-6/7 Parkowa G-5 Stawki A-1 (D/E-1) Zielna B-3 Francuska H-2 Lennona G-4 Pasteura D-4/5 Stefana Batorego E/F-5 Zimna A-3 Parkingowa Frascati C-4 Leszczyńska C-3 Paszyna D-1 Stępińska H-5/6 Złota B-3, A/B-4 (E/F-3) Fredry B-2 (F-2) Leszno D-2 Pawia A-2 (D/E-2, E-1) Sulkiewicza G-5 Zoli G-4 Freta B-1 (F-1) Leszowa E/F-4/5 Pawińskiego D-5/6 Szara G-3 Zwycięzców H-3 Furmańska C-2 (F/G-2) Lewartowskiego A-1/2 (E-1) Pereca A-3 (E-3) Szarych Szeregów D-3 Żelazna A-3/4 (E-2/3) Gagarina G/H-5 Lindleya A-4 (E-3/4) Piaseczyńska G-6 Szczęśliwicka D-4 Żelaznej Bramy, pl. A/B-3 (F-2) Gałczyńskiego C-3 Lipowa C-2 Piekarska B-2 Szczygla C-3 Żurawia B/C-4 (F/G-3) Gamerskiego B-2 Litewska G-4 Piękna F/G-4 Szkolna B-3 Żwirki i Wigury D/E-4/7 Geodetów D-5 Lubelska H-1 Piłsudskiego, marsz. pl. B-3 (F-2) Szpitalna B-3/4 Żytnia D-2 Gęsta C-2 Ludna G/H-3 Piwarskiego G/H-6 Szucha, al. G-4 Gibalskiego D-2 Ludowa G-6 Piwna B-2 Szwoleżerów H-4 H15

124 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com Ibis Stare Miasto

Powązki Cemetery

Castle Inn

Jewish Cemetery

Bristol Warsaw Copernicus Science Centre

National Stadium

Radisson BLU

Mercure Warszawa Centrum Novotel

Ibis Budget

H15

Radisson BLU Sobieski

Main Bus Station Ujazdowski Castle Botanical Garden Old Orangery £azienki Ibis Palace on the Island Warszawa Park Reduta Belvedere Palace

New Orangery

Łowicka

Team Hostel Lechicka Novotel Warszawa Airport

Królikarnia Palace Index

12 Stolików 33 Church of the Nuns of the Ibis Warszawa Centrum 122 Łazienki Park 94, 104 22 Bistro Burger 46 Visitation 105 Ichiban Sushi 42 Le Bistro Rozbrat 31 99 Restaurant & Bar 47 City Sightseeing Warsaw 72 Ignacy Paderewski 77 Le Cedre 84 45 All you need to Adam Mickiewicz Monument City Sports Club 110 Inaba 42 Legends British Bar & 76 C.K. Oberża 32 InterContinental 120 Restaurant 30 Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Club Mirage 66 Invisible Exhibition 83 L'enfant terrible 49 Literature 79 Coctail Bar Max 59 Jan Kiliński Monument 77 Leniviec 57 Adventure Warsaw 72 Copernicus Science Centre 92 Jedna Trzecia - beer bar 60 Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne know about where A Footbridge of Memory 102 Courtyard by Marriott Warsaw Jesuit Church 75 31 Agnieszka Osiecka Monument Airport 123 Jewish Historical Institute 102 Literatka 49 90 Coyote Bar & Night Club 69 Józef Piłsudski Monument 77 Madras 32 Alchemy Day Spa 110 CREATours 72 Kamanda Lwowska 55 Mamaison Hotel Le Regina American Bookstore 114 Cross-monument 77 Kaskrut 34 Warsaw 120 to sleep, eat, drink, Amigos 54 Cud Miód 47 Kiku Japanese Dining Gallery Marriott 120 Andrzej Mleczko Gallery 114 Cukier Lukier 115 42 MDM 122 And the Rest 105 Czerwony Wieprz 47 King Sigismund's Column 77 Meat Love 34 Anka Rancho Horse Riding 109 Dawne Smaki 47 Kitchen 28 Mercato 40 Anytkwariat Lamus 114 Delicja Polska 48 Klubokawiarnia Resort 52 Mercure Warszawa Centrum visit and enjoy Aquapark Wesolandia 111 Dom Polski 48 Klubokawiarnia Towarzyska 60 121 Arco Bowling Alley 109 Dos Tacos 53 Kokomo 69 Mercure Warszawa Grand 121 Aroma Espresso Bar 57 Dwie Trzecie 45 Koło Bazar 116 Metro Jazz Bar & Bistro 60 Art Gallery Amber Silver Line Dziurka od Klucza 39 Kościuszkowców Monument 91 Metropol 122 113 Eat Warsaw 72 Kraken Rum Bar 60 Military Cathedral 75 Art Studio Jewellery Schubert Ekskluzywne Alkohole M&P 113 Królikarnia 80 Moliera 2 115 113 Enklawa 66 Kuchnia Funkcjonalna 34 Momu Gastrobar 61 Atelier Amaro 47 Ethnographic Museum 79 Kufle i Kapsle 61 Monique Bakery & Wine 57 BarKa 67 Execution Sites 11 Lake & Island 98 Monument to the Ghetto Bears 90 FACTORY Outlet Annopol 117 La Pancia Piena 39 Heroes 102 Beirut Hummus & Music Bar 59 FACTORY Outlet Ursus 117 Lapidarium 114 Monument to the Warsaw ONLINE Belvedere 47 Five 34 La Viña 52 Uprising 11 Belvedere Palace 94 Florian 48 BEST WESTERN Hotel Felix 122 Folk Gospoda 49 BEST WESTERN Hotel Portos Franck Provost 110 122 Fusion 31 Besuto 42 Galeria aBo Art 114 Biała Gęś 47 Galeria Bursztynek 113 Bielański Bank 11 Galil 44 Blikle Café 57 Gallery of Paintings, Sculpture Bodegas Santa Rufina 113 and the Decorative Arts 80 Bolesławiec Pottery 116 Giancarlo Ristorante Italiano 39 Bristol Wine Bar 63 Golden Tulip Warsaw Centre 122 Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar 27 Golf Park Driving Range 109 BrowArmia 34 Golf Parks Poland 109 Buddha Indian Restaurant 32 Goshico 115 Buildings 91 Grand Kredens 34 Butchery & Wine 54 Green Bar 55 By Bus 97 Green Peas Eco Bar & Coffee 55 Café 6/12 52 Gustaw 114 Café Baobab 27 Haka Bar 59 Cafe Kulturalna 59 Halka restauracja po polsku 49 PRINT Cafe Próżna 57 Hard Rock Cafe 28, 60 MOBILE Café Vincent 57 Helicopter.pl 110 Campanile 122 Hilton Warsaw Hotel & Casa Pablo 52 Convention Centre 121 Castle Inn 122 Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Cepelia 116 Airport 123 Charlotte. Chleb i Wino 30 Holmes Place 109 China Garden 30 Holmes Place Premium 111 Chopin Benches 104 Holy Cross Church 74, 105 Chopin Monument 105 Hostel 36 123 Chopin Monument & Temple Hotel Bristol Warsaw 120 of Sibyl 94 Hoża 29 Church of the Assumption Hulakula Bowling Alley 108 Europe's biggest publisher of locally produced city guides of the Virgin Mary and of St. Hulakula Leisure Centre 109 Joseph 74 Hydrozagadka 60 Photo by Stanisław Kłosin poland.inyourpocket.com

128 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com Index

Multimedia Fountain Park 79 RAMEN BAR 29 Targowisko Bakalarska 117 Wabu Sushi Bar 44 Museum of Hunting and Regent Warsaw Hotel 120 TFH Tymczasowy Butik 115 Warsaw City-Tour 73 Horsemanship 95 Relax Cafe Bar 57 Thai Thai 55 Warsaw Museum 83 Museum of Independence 80 Residence St. Andrew's Palace Theatre on the Island 96 Warsaw Overnight 123 Museum of John Paul II 123 The Clash Restaurant and Club Warsaw Tortilla Factory 54, 64 Collection 80 Restauracja Kultura 36 67 Warsaw Uprising Museum 11 Museum of Priest Jerzy Restauracja Oliva 45 The Little Insurgent Warszawa Powiśle 66 Popiełuszko 80 Restauracja Różana 50 Monument 11 Warszawa Wschodnia 51 Museum of Technology 89 Restauracja Wilanów 36 The Pictures Art Bar Cafe 64 Wasabi 44 Muu Muu 54 Restaurant Jasna 24 36 The Westin Warsaw Hotel 121 Water Trams 110 Myślewicki Palace 95 Rialto 120 The Wilanów Palace Museum Wejman Winebar 63 Namaste India 32 Ristorante Il Cavaliere 40 98 White House & Orangery 96 Natara 54 Ristorante Repubblica Italiana To Lubię 57 Wilczeniec Country Club 110 National Museum 81 40 Tomb of the Unknown Soldier Wilczy Głód 38 Natu Rest & Wine 34 River Ferries 110 78 Wine Bar Mielżyński 63 Neon Museum 81 Roma 40 Tomo Sushi 44 Winestone 38, 63 Neptunea 116 Roma Bukieteria 41 'To Those Deported and Winiarnia Restauracja New Orleans Gentlemen's Room 13 Club & Lounge 67 Murdered in the East' 78 Superiore 38 Club 69 Roommate Apartments 123 Tourist Information 81 W.Kruk 114 Nicolaus Copernicus Różycki Bazaar 91 Traces of the Ghetto 102 Wodny Park 111 Monument 78 Ruins of the Rising 11 Trattoria Da Antonio 41 W Oparach Absurdu 66 Nike 78 Ryż i Ryba 43 Trattoria Rucola 41 WPT 1313 73 Norma 32 Salon Kosmetyczny 15-115 111 U Fukiera 51 Wygodny Rower 108 Novotel Warszawa Centrum Salto 29 Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Ząbkowska 91 121 SAM Bakery & Restaurant 36 Of Modern Art/CSW) 82, 96 Zapiecek 52 Nożyk Synagogue 102 Segway City Tours 73 U Szwejka 30 Żelazowa Wola - Birthplace Oki Doki 123 Senses 50 Veg Deli 52 105 Okopowa Street Jewish Sheesha Lounge 33 Vege Miasto 56 Złote Tarasy 117 Cemetery 102 Sheraton Warsaw Hotel 120 Veturilo 108 Znajomi Znajomych 66 Ole Tapas Steak Restaurant 53 Silk & Spicy 54 Vietnamese Restaurant Four Zoo 91 Opera 66 Skandal Bistrobar 36 Seasons 56 Żurawina Rest & Wine 39 Orthodox Church of St. Mary Skwer - filia Centrum VITKAC 117 Magdalene 91 Artystycznego Fabryka Trzciny OSP Saska Kępa 61 37, 64 Osteria 52 Słony 50 FEATURES INDEX OTO!SUSHI 42 Sofia 69 Palace of Culture and Science Sofitel Warsaw Victoria 121 Currency Exchange 118 89 Sokotra 46 Facts & Figures 18 Palace on the Island 95 Solec 44 37 Fotoplastikon 78 Panorama Bar & Lounge 61 Sol y Sombra 53 Healthy Eating 52 Papaya 54 SomePlace Else 28, 64 Pardon, To Tu 62 Soto Sushi 43 Hotel Calculator 123 Park & Gardens 98 Sound Garden Hotel 123 Jan III Sobieski 99 Parking Bar 62 SouvenirCity 116 Jazz 60 Paros 45 Sowa & Przyjaciele 50 Language Smarts 19 PATERA cocktail & sushi bar 43 Specjały Regionalne 51, 116 Piękna Bistro 60 Spin City 109 Market Values 18 Pies Czy Suka/Pure Bar 62 Squash City 110 Meet the Concierge 121 Piw Paw 62 St. Anne's Church 99 Multimedia Fountain Park 79 Plac Barcelona 63 Stara Kamienica 37 Presidential Palace 83 Plan B 64 Start Hotel Atos 122 Platinium Club 67 Station Warsaw 73 Royal Castle 85 P&O Apartments 123 St. Benno's Church 75 Saski Palace 82 Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra 64 St. Casimir's Church 76 Steak 54 Polish Army Museum 82 St. Francis Seraph Church 76 Tadeusz Kościuszko 75 Polonez klubokawiarnia 64 St. Mary's Church 76 Polonia Palace Hotel 121 Strefa Restaurant & Bar 37 The Eastern Wall 76 Poster Museum 99 Sts. Michael & Florian The Story of Syrenka 122 Praga Tourist Information 91 Cathedral 91 Tipping Tribulations 56 Pure Health and Fitness 109 Sungate Beauty & Spa 111 Train Smarts 12 Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel Syrena 78 122 Syreni Śpiew 64 Warsaw Street Murals 74 Radisson Blu Sobieski Hotel TAPAS Gastrobar 53 Warsaw Uprising 8 122 Targ Dobrego Jedzenia w Warsaw-Modlin Airport 14 Rain by India Curry 33 Fortecy 117 Wine Bars 63

130 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com