Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels Warsaw NNo.o. 882,2, AAugustugust - SSeptembereptember 22014014 The Warsaw Uprising Awe Inspiring - 70 Years On inyourpocket.com ł No. 82 - 5z ȱȱ¢ȱȱȱ ȱȱ¢ȱȱ ȱȱȱȱ ȱ ȱȱĴȱȱ ǯȱȱŝǰȱ£ ȱǯǯǯȱ ǯȱŘŘȱŞŚŞȱŗŘȱŘśǰȱǯȦ¡ȱŘŘȱŞŚŞȱŗśȱşŖ ǯǯǯȱȱ ȱȱȱ ǯ£ǯǯ ǯ ȱ ȱȱȱȱȱǰȱ¢ȱȱ ȱȱ ȱȱȱ ȱȱȱ ȱȱ¢ȱ ȱ ȱ Ěȱȱȱȱ¢ȱ¢ǯ ȱȱȱȱȱȱȱ dz Contents Feature Further Afi eld Warsaw Uprising 8 Łódź 106 Arrival & Transport 12 Leisure 108 City Basics 18 Shopping 112 Culture & Events 20 Directory 118 Restaurants 26 Hotels 120 Cafés 57 Maps & Index Street Index 124 Nightlife 58 City Centre Map 125 Sightseeing City Map 126-127 Essential Warsaw 71 Country Map 128 Sightseeing 72 Listings Index 129 Old Town 84 The Royal Route 87 Features Index 130 Palace of Culture and Science 89 Praga 90 Copernicus Science Center 92 Łazienki 94 IN PRINT Wilanów 97 Jewish Warsaw 100 ONLINE Chopin 103 ON YOUR MOBILE PLAC TEATRALNY 3, WARSAW TEL. +48 601 81 82 83 Monument to the Warsaw Uprising Photo by Zbigniew Furman. Courtesy of Warsaw Uprising Museum. [email protected] 4 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com Foreword Welcome to Warsaw and the 82nd edition of Warsaw Publisher In Your Pocket! Summer is in full swing and the city is IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. absolutely sizzling. It’s the perfect time to take advantage ul. Sławkowska 12, 31-014 Kraków the capitals’ many fi ner points - exploring the parks, [email protected] gardens (beer) and breathtaking urban riverwalks (take www.inyourpocket.com a walk on the wild side!). It’s also the heart of the tourist season, so if the weather’s down when you’re in town, head Company Offi ce & Accounts General Manager: Małgorzata Drząszcz, 606 749 676 to one of the cities amazing museums. We recommend Accountant: Joanna Szlosowska, 58 555 08 31 the Copernicus Science Center which you can read all about on page 92 (TIP-make sure to book tickets way in Circulation advance to avoid long lines) and also possibly the best 25,000 copies published every two months museum in the country - the Warsaw Uprising Museum. Editorial This Uprising Museum has particular importance in this Editor: Thymn Chase; Contributing Writer: Mat Fahrenholz; summer of 2014 as Warsaw celebrates 70th Anniversary Research Manager: Anna Hojan; Researchers: Oliwia Hojan, of the Warsaw Uprising. On this heralded occasion WIYP Kalina Klimaszewska, Sandra Wilczewska; Layout: Tomáš takes an in depth look at the Uprising - from it’s earliest Haman; Events: Anna Hojan, Janina Krzysiak; Photography: beginnings to the fi erce guerrilla fi ghting in the streets and All photographs In Your Pocket unless otherwise stated; Cover tunnels to the bloody aftermath and its enduring legacy. © Zbigniew Furman. Courtesy of Warsaw Uprising Museum. Read more in our feature on page 8. As always, you can let Sales & Circulation us know what you think about Warsaw and our guide on Kraków/Katowice/Tarnów Manager: Facebook (/warsawinyourpocket.com) or old-fashioned Monika Szymanek 668 876 351 email: [email protected]. Warszawa/Łódź Manager: Marta Ciepły 606 749 643 Wrocław/Poznań Manager: Agata Trocha 606 749 642 Gdansk/Bydgoszcz Manager: Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824 FEATURE Copyright Notice & Editor’s Note Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP Sp. z o. o., IYP City To gain perspective on just how Guides Sp. z o. o. Sp.k. Maps copyright Agencja Reklamowa POD important the Warsaw Uprising is ANIOLEM. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be and what it means today to a rebuilt reproduced in any form without written permission from the Warsaw and resurgent Polish nation, copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under one must look through the fractured license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania prism of Polish History. We put the tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent Uprising in it’s proper historical from paid-for advertising. We have made every eff ort to context and suggest where you can go in the city to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no learn more about this vital event (page 8). responsibility for changes and errors. ABOUT IYP We have come a long way in the 22 years since we published the fi rst In Your ESTONIA Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania RUSSIA LATVIA - so much so that we are today the NORTHERN LITHUANIA IRELAND largest publisher of locally-produced IRELAND BELARUS NETHERLANDS city guides in the world. The recent POLAND GERMANY UKRAINE publication of a guide to the islands BELGIUM CZECH REPUBLIC of the Dutch Caribbean - our fi rst in AUSTRIA HUNGARY the Western Hemisphere - has taken SWITZERLAND ROMANIA GEORGIA SLOVENIACROATIA the number of guides published each ITALY BOSNIA SERBIA BULGARIA year by In Your Pocket to well over fi ve MONTENEGRO FYR MACEDONIA million, spread across more than 100 ALBANIA GREECE cities on three continents. And there is more to come: make sure you keep up DUTCH CARIBBEAN with all that’s new at In Your Pocket by SOUTH AFRICA liking us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or following us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). 6 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com Warsaw Uprising any numerical supremacy the Poles could count on was ENOUGH WAS ENOUGH off set by a chronic lack of arms, and a complete dearth of August 1, 1944. Warsaw, subject to fi ve years of fascist heavy armour. Nonetheless the element of surprise caught hegemony, rose up in popular rebellion in what would go the Germans off guard, and in spite of heavy losses the on to be recorded as the largest ever uprising in the Ger- Poles captured a string of strategic targets, including the man occupied territories. With German morale in ribbons, old town, Prudential Tower (then the tallest building in a retreat from Warsaw in full swing, and the Red Army Poland), and the post offi ce. The fi rst day had cost the lives already on the east bank of the Wisła, no time seemed bet- of 2,000 Poles, yet for the fi rst time since occupation the ter than the present. Following close contact with the Pol- Polish fl ag fl uttered once more over the capital. ish government-in-exile, and assurances of Allied aid, the Home Army (Poland’s wartime military movement a.k.a Yet in spite of these initial successes there remained several the Armii Krajowy or AK) launched a military strike with concerns. Polish battle groups were spread across the city, the aim of liberating Warsaw and installing an indepen- and many had failed to link up as planned. More worryingly, dent government. several objectives had been met with disaster – the police district around (G-4) Al. Szucha remained fi rmly in German During the event the Red Army made no concerted at- hands, even more importantly, so did the airport. Hitler, tempt to help the Poles, while promises of Allied support meanwhile, was roused out of his torpor, screaming for “No proved largely empty. As for the Nazi hierarchy, they reacted prisoners to be taken,” and “Every inhabitant to be shot.” with blind rage to this stroke of Polish insolence, and what ensued was an epic 63 day struggle during which the Within days German reinforcements started pouring in, and Home Army faced the full wrath of Hitler. The most notori- on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through ous chapter of Warsaw’s history was about to be written. the western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men, women and children in what would become one of the most savage episodes of the Uprising. Indeed, it was to THE UPRISING prove a mixed fi rst week for the Poles. In liberated areas, Considering the epic scale of the bloodshed, and how behind the barricades, cultural life thrived – over 130 brutal Hitler’s tactics were in subjugating and eliminat- newspapers sprang up, religious services were celebrated ing each and every ethnic group, it’s little surprise Poland and a scout run postal service introduced. Better still, the gave birth to Europe’s largest resistance movement. Even fi rst allied air drops hinted at the support of the west. As it still, with the war moving towards its closing stages it was turned out, this was just papering over the cracks. The Ger- far from obvious that the resistance would abandon its mans, under the command of the Erich von dem Bach, partisan tactics and launch a bona fi de military assault on replied with heavy artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains the Nazis. By July 1944 the Red Army led by Marshal and tanks. Even worse, the practice of using Polish women Rokossovsky had reached the Wisla, and on July 22 a as human shields was quickly introduced. panicked Fischer ordered the evacuation of German ci- Phhotoo grag phph frof mmt the WarWa saw Uprising. Insusurgents on the baarricadeses on ul. Zielna observing the bombing of tht e PAST bub iltding. Phooto by EugE eniuszz Lokajski „Brok”. Courtesy of WarW saww Uprissingi Museum. vilians from Warsaw; sensitive papers were torched and The insurgents were a mixed bag, featuring over 4,000 destroyed, trains screeched westwards to Berlin and all women in their ranks, a unit of Slovaks, scores of Jews the signs suggested liberation was but days away. German liberated from a Warsaw concentration camp, a platoon intelligence was aware that an uprising was possible, yet of deaf and dumb volunteers led by an offi cer called Yo nothing seemed clear cut.