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Home , Abe Lenstra, Adrie Koster, Almelo, De Vijverberg, Dick Lukkien, Erik ten Hag

HOLLAND 2018-19

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Cars Jeans Stadion i n tr o

Station to stadium The has one major international airport in Amsterdam, with direct rail nationwide connections, and a budget hub in Eindhoven. Flights also go to - and Groningen.

Trains (ns.nl/en) and local public transport are served by one single The Big Three of Ajax, clubs comes from a different town sales (involving registration in Dutch) nationwide OV-chipkaart. It can only be and PSV have played all 62 – Ajax Amsterdam have not had a are the norm. purchased (€7.50) at Dutch stations or seasons since the professional league credible local rival since the 1970s. This to Sittard, a drive of three hours and sales points. Top up at machines then was founded in 1956 – and won all but in turn means that clashes are fiercest The byzantine system of promotion just over 300km. The first-rate Dutch touch in and (don’t forget!) touch out on six of them. between Den Haag and Amsterdam, from the second-tier rail system runs on a nationwide chip trams, buses and train platforms. Groningen and , Feyenoord means that half the league reaches card also valid for public transport The top league in the Netherlands and pretty much anyone else. It gave the end-of-season promotion play offs. everywhere. Groundhopping, assuming Purchasing individual tickets is also keeps interest alive by having four rise to a shocking hooligan problem This, in turn, means that a modest you can get a ticket, couldn’t be easier. possible. For train tickets, except at clubs play off for the fourth European later addressed by out-of-town, high- club with a modest pedigree, such Amsterdam Schiphol airport, there’s a place – among them possibly 2009 security stadia and ClubCards, limiting FC Emmen in 2018, can be elevated Most clubs play at modern grounds, charge for payments with foreign credit champions AZ Alkmaar, perhaps admission to members only. to play the likes of Ajax and PSV. But some overhauled or rebuilt around the cards and not in cash. Vitesse or ADO Den Haag, however obscure the town, distances time of Euro 2000. Holland failed in its maybe . These days, many low-risk fixtures in the Netherlands are relatively short. bid to co-host the 2018 World Cup but Much of Holland is rural – Fortuna have open ticket sales although, the Big The longest trek in 2018-19 Eredivisie, the standard of facilities remains high, Sittard, say, feels like the middle of Usually with the exception of Three excluded, stadium capacities are running almost the entire north-south with beer served at most grounds and nowhere. Most clubs encourage cyclists Rotterdam, each of the 18 top-tier modest. Pay-on-the-day is rare, online extent of the country, is from Groningen designated family-friendly sectors. and provide suitable facilities.

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Major roads and motorways do not involves three rounds, the relegation require toll payments. Parking in battlers joining at round two. Again, i n many cities is limited although most away goals, extra-time and penalties have park & ride schemes (P+R- count. tr locaties). On Sundays, street parking is often free. The Eerste Divisie consists of 20 o teams, including the youth sides of GRONINGEN Tables & trophies Ajax, PSV, Utrecht and AZ, who cannot The Eredivisie consists of 18 teams be promoted to the Eredivisie. In who play each other home and away. 2018, won the league but Heerenveen At present, the winners do not gain automatic promotion went to runners- automatic admission to the group stage up . of the Champions League but enter the EMMEN third qualifying round. The runners-up The Eerste Divisie operates a period team league drop down to the amateur ALKMAAR go into the second qualifying round and system. The season is divided into four Derde (‘Third’) fourth tier. Those third-place finishers into the second quarters – the best team in each period finishing 15 and 16 play off with the qualifying round of the Europa League. qualifies for the promotion play-offs. clubs finishing 2-4 in each of two Derde The four highest-placed finishers in leagues, Saturday and Sunday, whose ALMELO For another berth in that same round, the overall season table, excluding champions go up to the Tweede. amsterdam the four teams finishing 4-7 play off in period champions, also qualify. This two two-legged semi-finals and one creates the eight play-off participants Below the Derde is a six-layer amateur two-legged final, away goals, extra- from the Eerste. One team winning pyramid, from Hoofdklasse to Eerste THE HAGUE UTRECHT time and penalties deciding factors. two or more periods passes a play- Klasse and way down to Vijfde Klasse. ARNHEM Doetinchem The winners of the Dutch Cup qualify off berth down the overall table. With These, too, are divided into Saturday Rotterdam for the third qualifying round of the youth teams from major clubs excluded and Sunday leagues, and regionally. Europa League – and the from promotion, in practice this means Shield, the Dutch Super Cup curtain- teams finishing tenth usually reach the Each match in the KNVB Beker, the raiser, against the league champions. If play-offs. Dutch Cup, is settled on the day, after TILBURG the cup winners have already qualified extra-time and penalties if necessary. for Europe, their slot is passed down, Relegation from the Eerste is easy to The First Preliminary Round in EINDHOVEN with the eighth-placed league finisher figure out – there isn’t any. The Dutch August involves 58 amateur teams venlo making the Euro play-offs. FA decided to keep the professional from the Derde Divisie and district Eerste and third-tier, semi-pro Tweede cup tournaments. Bizarrely, 32 play The last-placed team from the top (‘Second’) Divisie, separate. Tweede each other, but 26 receive byes to the division drops into the second-tier champions, in 2019 potentially historic Second Preliminary Round a few Eerste Divisie. Sides finishing 16 Amsterdamsche FC, do not go up. days later. This brings together the 16 SITTARD and 17 take part in the play-offs (aka winners, those 26 given free passage Nacompetitie) with eight promotion Tweede teams can, however, be and 12 clubs from the semi-pro Tweede hopefuls from the Eerste. This process relegated. The bottom two of the 18- Divisie. This produces 27 winners.

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Contents The main tournament starts with the ADO Den Haag

First Round in September: those 27 i n 4–5 Amsterdam winners, all 34 professional clubs, the PSVs of this world always drawn 6 Ajax tr away, plus three also-rans from the 7–8 Rotterdam

Tweede. 9 Excelsior o 10 Feyenoord From there, it’s a straight knock-out 11 Alkmaar (no seeding) up to the final in May, at 12 AZ Alkmaar Feyenoord’s De Kuip in Rotterdam. 13 Almelo 14 Season’s dealings 15 Arnhem The Eredivisie starts in mid-August 16 Vitesse Arnhem and takes a winter break just before 17 Breda Christmas. It restarts the third week 18 NAC Breda of January then runs up to mid-May. 19 Doetinchem 20 A typical weekend would involve a Friday evening game at 8pm, 21 Eindhoven Saturday ones at 6.30pm, 7.45pm 22 PSV Eindhoven and 8.45pm, then Sunday ones 23 Emmen at 12.15pm, 2.30pm and 4.45pm. 24 FC Emmen The last two league rounds are 25 Groningen synchronised at 2.30pm on each 26 FC Groningen Sunday. 27 The Hague 28 ADO Den Haag Saturday afternoon games are rare. 29 Heerenveen Occasional midweek games take Entry level a Dutch address. Pay-on-the-day is to-date resource, city-by-city, club- 30 SC Heerenveen place at 6.30pm, 7.45pm and 8.45pm. Despite the ClubCard system, most rare. Tickets are around €20, slightly by-club, to the game across Europe 31 Sittard On the plus side, match times are set clubs make low-risk home matches, less behind the goals, more along and North America. Using only original 32 Fortuna Sittard in stone until season’s end. perhaps a dozen league fixtures of the sidelines. Prices increase by 20% photos and first-hand research, taken 33 Tilburg the 17, open to all. Apart from the for a visit by the Big Three and local and undertaken over five seasons, The Eerste Divisie kicks off, breaks Big Three and Heerenveen, stadium rival. A stand is a tribune, a sector, vak. liberoguide.com has been put together 34 Willem II and restarts at the same time, capacities hover around 20,000, some Uitvak is the away sector for bezoekers, to enhance every football weekend and 35 Utrecht finishing earlier in May to allow for even lower than 10,000. As the average visitors. Euro night experience. From airport to 36 FC Utrecht the play-offs. Games are played at Eredivisie gate is 18,000, this means arena, downtown sports bar to hotel, 37 Venlo 8pm on Fridays, with one at 8pm on that ticket availability is often at a Welcome to liberoguide.com! liberoguide.com helps you get the best 38 VVV-Venlo Mondays, and occasional Saturday premium. Online sales require Dutch- The digital travel guide for football out of your visit to football’s furthest 39 Zwolle evening/Sunday afternoon fixtures. language registration and, sometimes, fans, liberoguide.com is the most up- corners and showcase stadiums. 40 PEC Zwolle

liberoguide.com 3 HOLLAND 2018-19 Amsterdam www.liberoguide.com/amsterdam

St James’s Gate Amsterd a m

These days, when Ajax triumph, the the cleaners 5-0 in the Dutch Cup. AFC whole city turns out for celebrations on are currently challenging for promotion the Leidseplein. This square will also from the semi-pro Tweede Divisie to be the scene of serious fan carousing reach this same second tier in 2019- in 2020 when Amsterdam co-hosts the 20. At the Goed Genoeg, the wonderful Euros. clubhouse bar overlooks the pitch and the one main stand lined with AFC- The Olympic Stadium, where Ajax issue red-and-black seating. played major matches for nearly 70 years after the 1928 Games held Bearings here, is still frequently used. Due Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport is 9km for demolition in 1987, taking with it (6 miles) south-west of the city centre, memories of the 1962 European Cup connected by regular train (€4.30) Final and 1981 UEFA Cup Final second to Centraal station and Amsterdam leg between AZ Alkmaar and Ipswich, Bijlmer ArenA (€3.90), both about this heritage landmark has been 15mins away. There are shared or of intelligent football played by young many Dutch international matches continually renovated and improved private taxis bookable on the airport Amsterdam players nurtured or moulded at the club. since. In 2018, it was renamed the since the late 1990s. website, prices starting around €30. . Forward-thinking and multicultural, Three waves of star teams have The city’s second club, and its oldest, is City transport consists of buses, Amsterdam is represented by a made their mark in Europe and won It’s a world away from the Amsterdamsche FC. Founded in 1895, trams, four light rail/metro lines flagship club in its own image: Ajax. silverware: the Ajax of Johan Cruyff of neighbourhood feel of the club’s AFC run Saturday and Sunday teams, and ferries, accessed by the national This successful school of footballing the 1970s; the Ajax of former home of De Meer, where Ajax plus several at youth level. The club OV-chipkaart (€7.50) available at excellence is as global a brand as the (with Cruyff as coach) of the 1980s; and icon Johan Cruyff was raised. As a boy, moved to its current home, Sportpark station machines, tobacconists and three crosses of the city emblem. ’s young Ajax of the 1990s. Cruyff lived nearby and his mother Goed Genoeg on De Boelelaan, near convenience stores. A single journey The latter heralded a new era, with the took in the club’s laundry. A young Amsterdam Zuid station, in 1962. In without the OV-chipkaart is €3. There The famous thick red stripe running opening of the futuristic Amsterdam Johan would hop over the road to turn September 2018, it witnessed a rout are also cards for 24-hour (€7.50), 48- down the white shirt of Ajax is a symbol ArenA in 1996, a host of Euro 2000 and out for the boys’ team. when AFC took second-tier Telstar to hour (€12.50) travel, and so on.

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Hotel Internationaal Amsterd a m

Bed The Tara on nearby Rokin provide a Iamsterdam (iamsterdam.com) has a nice pub feel with TV sport in focus. hotel database and there’s a tourist office with hotel booking outside Further towards the Red Light district, Centraal Station. the Old Sailor is an age-old corner spot dotted with TV screens for Convenient for the ArenA, right on football gawping, with a lively, chatty the Bijlmer ArenA station concourse, clientele creating a constant buzz NH Carlton Amsterdam the Hampton by Hilton Amsterdam around the bar. is business-friendly, with a bar open to all pre- and post-match. A short Internationaal features a 90-year- Close to Rembrandtplein, hotels Beer Another tourist haunt is the Heineken walk from Overamstel station, on the old bar at street level and affordable allow for easy barhopping. The Hotel Sports bars and football-focused Experience, with its own brew pub, No.50 metro line to the stadium, the rooms above. Atlanta above the St James’s Gate pubs abound, particularly on just behind which O’Donnell’s goes big towering Mercure Hotel Amsterdam pub is comfortable and affordable. Rembrandtplein and around. on live sport and live music – it has a City has a gym and sauna. Also Round the corner from Centraal, the Also nearby are the three-star NH These include the Satellite Sports large terrace, too. near Overamstel is the mid-range Grand Hotel Amrâth Amsterdam Schiller and the NH Carlton Café and St James’s Gate, along Bastion Hotel Amsterdam/Amstel. offers five-star luxury in a beautiful Amsterdam, built for the 1928 with pubs such as the Three Shop old shipping house. Just along a few Olympics. Sisters, the Old Bell, Hoopman, The COPA Football Store near Hotels cluster around Centraal buildings, rooms at the warren-like and, in the same family, the Hole in Centraal is an Aladdin’s cave of Station. These include, at the but boutique Mansion can be found for For the budget-conscious, Amsterdam the Wall. goodies, with everything from a gateway to the Red Light district, the a snip on booking sites. has a number of hostel-like hotels moped plastered in Panini stickers Prins Hendrik, best known for its and superior hostels. Hotel The Coco’s Outback is a popular Aussie to Tibetan national football shirts. unfortunate footnote in music history For something more individual, the Globe contains private rooms as sports pub nearby, with 30 screens Much comes from people’s own – it was here that jazzster Chet Baker WestCord Art Hotel Amsterdam near well as dorms, plus one of the city’s and attractive drinks deals. Round attics, giving the stock a real personal jumped to his death. A plaque marks Museum Het Ship features original biggest sports bars. St Christopher’s the corner, Regular & Jack shows touch. ‘My First Football Shirt’ is one his memory – a bar beside the lobby is works by controversial artist/musician at the Winston is a superior hostel most games in a lively, up-for-it particular line. Angelo and Joël are open to the public. Nearby, the Hotel Herman Brood. with an equally central location. atmosphere. usually happy to show you round.

liberoguide.com 5 HOLLAND 2018-19 Ajax www.liberoguide.com/ajax

For visits of clubs such as Willem j A II, you pay €26 for a seat behind the goals, €31-€36 (€22 for over-65s) a around the corner flags, and €52 for x a place over the halfway line. Note that online sales are Dutch-only but relatively easy to negotiate.

For all queries, tweet Ajax Fancare at https://twitter.com/ajaxfancare.

Shops Ajax On the west side of the main entrance of the ArenA, the Ajax Record Dutch champions Ajax (english. Fanshop proffers classic white/red ajax.nl) are four-time winners of combination shirts, along with away Europe’s premier trophy. Ajax have tops of black with gold shoulders. always placed belief in youth, the classic example being all-time club icon Tours Johan Cruyff. Dutch/English-language stadium tours run every half-hour most days Formed at the Café Oost Indië on (not match days), departing from the Kalverstraat in 1900, Ajax came to the main entrance and lasting for 75min. Johan Cruyff ArenA fore in the 1960s. An adventurous team under , starring teenage Bars prodigy Cruyff, won three straight Dutch Old boy then led Ajax to outlets in Bijlmer, south-east of town. Allow 15 mins. The previous stop of Many gather in town at the Café titles. four straight titles from 2011 to 2014. Zuid (gates G-J, M) is the home end. Strandvliet is also reasonably close Monico on Rembrandtplein and/or In 2017, a young Ajax side under Peter At the opposing Noord (A-C, K), away and more convenient for the Noord Café Hesp near Amstel station on Ajax adopted , a fluid Bosz froze in the Europa League final fans are allocated sectors 416 and end. Weesperzijde before heading to the system of interchanging positions, against Manchester United, but gained 417 through gate K in the north-west ArenA. conducted by Cruyff. Ajax dominated the much acclaim on the way. corner. Ajax tours and the Fanshop The station is on a direct train line At the main entrance to the stadium, European Cup, before Cruyff headed for are found at the main entrance, from Schiphol Airport, journey time chain venue FEBO has a terrace, two . He returned to coach Ajax to a Now manager is counting Hoofdingang (gates D-F). 15 mins. TV screens inside and live music laid European trophy in 1987. on stellar Dušan Tadić and on before and after matches. Nearby Donny van de Beek to garner further All transactions are by credit card. Tickets is a popular nameless bar by gate Under Total Football follower Louis European glory. Tickets are only available from the Zuid G – look out for the Grolsch van Gaal, a buccaneering Ajax swept to Transport Ajax website – availability is usually and Guinness signs. Grolsch is also Champions League glory in 1995 with a The 52,000-capacity Johan Cruyff Metro line 54 runs to Station Biljmer limited to lesser-attractive league the attraction at the Grand Café 3 & 1-0 win over Milan. ArenA is surrounded by commercial ArenA from Centraal, direction Gein. fixtures. 20 on De Passage.

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Cup in 1966 while Excelsior have only R reached the final once, the derby clash a otterd of 1930 that saw the Kralingers go down 1-0 to Puck van Heel’s Feijenoord.

Bearings Rotterdam The Hague Airport, used by British Airways and Dutch budget m carrier Transavia, is 5.5km (3.5 miles) north of Rotterdam. De Schouw Bus No.33 runs from the terminal ago. A season later, Sparta lost in the building to Rotterdam Centraal (every relegation play-offs. 10-15 min, journey time 20min). For this and all journeys in the Netherlands, Feyenoord are based south of the Maas you require an OV-chipkaart – €1.83 in working-class Feijenoord – the club’s will be deducted for the airport- name was changed to help foreigners Centraal journey. The card itself will pronounce it. Sparta sit in the western cost you €7.50. Otherwise, a single residential district of Spangen, Excelsior journey on Rotterdam public transport in eastern Kralingen near Erasmus of metro, trams and buses is €3 from University. the driver (valid 1hr). A day pass from machines at metro stations and RET While Feyenoord enjoy the biggest outlets is €7.50. All three grounds are populist support in the Netherlands, too far to walk from Centraal – you’ll and sympathetic Excelsior generate need to use the trams that run outside respect for their solid fan base, Sparta the main entrance. The city centre is a are generally dismissed as being 10min stroll from the station. Home of 15-time Dutch champions Across town the previous week, modest the unjustifiably favoured club of the Rotterdam Feyenoord since opening in 1937, De Excelsior had put the party on ice by establishment. Competition with The airport-recommended taxi (+31 Kuip witnessed crazy scenes 80 years achieving a shock 3-0 win over their Amsterdam may drive the agenda, in 10 262 0406) to town costs nearly €30. Rotterdam prides itself on being the later when returning hero bigger city rivals. The result gave terms of staging prestigious events and Stadstaxi Rotterdam (+31 10 81 82 82 3) biggest of Holland’s big three football grabbed a hat-trick in the last game rise to an ugly street battle between the bitter Feyenoord-Ajax rivalry – but quotes €23. cities, ahead of Amsterdam and of the 2016-17 campaign to bring Feyenoord fans and police – but granted everyone wants to beat Sparta. Eindhoven. While trailing behind both the league title to Rotterdam for the Excelsior another season in Holland’s From the rail terminal at Amsterdam in terms of silverware, this lively port first time this century. The next day, Eredivisie. For 2017-18, Rotterdam had During Feyenoord’s long wait for Schiphol Airport, a direct frequent train contains the country’s de facto national upwards of 150,000 celebrated outside a full complement of three teams in another Dutch title, Sparta and to Rotterdam Centraal takes 25min and stadium, De Kuip, stage for the final of Rotterdam’s City Hall, the main street of the top flight, the third being venerable Excelsior yo-yo’d between top and costs €14.70, again with a chipcard. The Euro 2000 and ten European deciders. Coolsingel awash with red and white. , dominant a century second tiers. Sparta last won the Dutch slower service (50min) is €2.40 less.

liberoguide.com 7 HOLLAND 2018-19 Rotterdam www.liberoguide.com/rotterdam

restaurant of the Hotel Bazar are R more typical of what you’ll find here. a otterd Opposite, Wunderbar is choosy about its music, with a more Caribbean/ junkyard feel inside, and nightspot/live venue WORM upstairs upstairs.

Those after a wider range of ales m should head for the nearby Proeflokaal Rheijngoud, with 21 types on tap and more than 100 by the bottle. On Nieuwe Binnenweg, the Kraftbar R’dam Bed provides rarer beers with scheduled TV Rotterdam Tourist Office (en. football while Café Stalles is an age- rotterdam.info) has a database of local old favourite. accommodation. Around the commercial centre, Paddy The only hotel near De Kuip is the Murphy’s is pretty much the only modest Benelux above vintage Feije bar football-focused expat-type pub in Café Schuyer at Beijerlandselaan 47A. town. The Café Purser on Keizerstraat appeals to the post-work party crowd, Also convenient are the upscale chain showing TV sport, as does Café hotels that line the No.23 tram route Spiegel on Westewagenstraat, with a from Centraal to the stadium. These mainstream live-music agenda. include the distinctive Inntel Rotterdam De Witte Aap Centre, near Leuvehaven metro and A great football bar for locals is Erasmus Bridge, with its panoramic the Eetcafe Schieland by the Hotel views and eighth-floor spa. Also near the Nearby but in a quieter immediate Schiekade, the Hotel Rotterdam City A few paces from the main strip, Rotterdam City on Schiekade. river, the Thon is the Rotterdam branch locality, the cosmopolitan Bilderberg is a comfortable option with images of Panenka is a text-book example of Feyenoord iconography, such as of this mid-range Norwegian chain. Parkhotel caters to the business De Kuip in its equally neat café. how to convert a standard old café original newspaper cuttings of crowd and discerning weekending into a cult football bar by means of a the 1970 European Cup Final, will Cheaper options around the bar vortex couples. Round the corner, the Under the orange umbrella of easyJet, retro theme, ie an unfashionable Czech hopefully survive the renovation of of Witte de Withstraat include the Breitner exudes old-school charm easyHotel on Westblaak is handy and penalty pioneer. autumn 2018. Home Hotel on the bar strip itself, an with its friendly staff and cosy bar. affordable. 80-room lodging suited to long- and If you just need a quiet one on Witte Around the Old Harbour, the Dutch short-term stays. Alongside, the exotic- Several hotels surround Centraal Beer de Withstraat, De Schouw is a lovely Maritime Pub is not as venerable as looking Hotel Bazar reflects the ethnic station, most strikingly the towering Rotterdam’s bar zone is Witte de bar decked out in old beer ads and a it makes out but provides tourists kaleidoscope of food in the restaurant Rotterdam Marriott immediately Withstraat, and streets nearby, such as little Feyenoord iconography. Crowded with a pleasant waterside backdrop downstairs. opposite. A short walk away on Nieuwe Binnenweg. inside and out, De Witte Aap and the nonetheless.

liberoguide.com 8 HOLLAND 2018-19 Excelsior www.liberoguide.com/excelsior

negotiate. Higher-risk fixtures are E only open to club-card holders. xcelsior

The standard prices are €18 for the Robin van Persie or Erasmus Tribune, and €23 (€18/€10) to sit in the Rob Albers Tribune. On match days, prices rise by €5. For top fixtures such as Ajax, advance tickets are €30. The home end, the south stand, was named after old boy Robin van Persie. Email [email protected] for all The Noordtribune behind the opposite ticket enquiries. goal is divided into the Excelsior4All Tribune and the away sector Shop (Bezoekers Tribune) nearest the Rob A handful of regular souvenirs is Albers Tribune on one sideline. On the available from the stadium bar on facing sideline is the main stand, the match days, staff happy to open up to Henk Zon Tribune, with press and VIP any visitor who may turn up during the sections. In one corner between the week. home end and the Rob Albers Tribune Woudestein is the Erasmus Tribune. Bars Upscale destination restaurants of Rotterdam near the Erasmus Transport stand either side of the main road by Excelsior University. From Centraal, via Beurs, tram the stadium, contemporary Fred and Nos.21 and 24 stop at Woudestein more rustic IDRW, both kitchens run Older than Feyenoord, SBV Excelsior It was here, in this eastern district (15min, direction De Esch), on the by star chefs. (sbvexcelsior.nl) have benefitted of Kralingen, where the club was main road by the stadium. from a player-share agreements formed in 1902. They played on the The match day-only supporters’ with their more celebrated city rivals open ground of Woudestein, where Tickets bar in a stand-alone building by the to help gain top-flight status, most their stadium of the same name is Given the 4,400 capacity, tickets for stadium car park shows evidence of recently in 2014. still located. De Kralingers would Eredivisie games can be in short Robin van Persie’s visit, with pictures eventually acquire another nickname, supply and are only offered for the of the star player from boyhood and a Towards season’s end in 2016-17, the Oud-papier club, as Excelsior leave for Feyenoord in 1999 – and Robin van Persie, Erasmus and Rob handwritten note of thanks. Another the former satellite club caused a remained in the hands of owners fame. Albers Tribune. mural illustrates Excelsior history, huge upset by tonking Feyenoord involved in paper recycling. with photos of former club officials 3-0 at home, the result halting With a stadium, now officially named Tickets are available in person from and their paper-recycling van. the visitors’ run to a long-awaited A row between a teenager Robin van Van Donge & De Roo, of 4,400 the stadium office (Mon-Tue, Thur-Fri title. The unexpected result led to Persie and then coach capacity, Excelsior are always the 9am-12.45pm, 1.15pm-5pm) or online, Alongside, De Courant accommodates violent clashes in this leafy part saw the later Manchester United star most modest outfit in the Eredivisie. Dutch-only but reasonably easy to business clients on match days.

liberoguide.com 9 HOLLAND 2018-19 Feyenoord www.liberoguide.com/feyenoord

Supporters Home town, one by the main entrance of Feyenoord Centraal station.

Tours & museum Stadium tours take place Wed-Sat, booked at the FanShop or on the club website. An English-language audio guide can be downloaded – details from the FanShop.

A visit to the Feyenoord Museum is part of the tour or it can be visited separately (€5/€2.50) on Wednesday and Saturday afternoons.

Bars At Beijerlandselaan 47, the Café Schuyer is an age-old Feyenoord haunt. By the Stadion Feijenoord tram De Kuip Tickets stop are family-friendly eateries and Foreigners may purchase tickets for leisure attractions. ‘kuip’) of a stadium, it was built in two Feyenoord City will be a new, home games – though they must Feyenoord tiers set on top of each other, without 63,000-capacity stadium. Construction show ID when collecting them on At the stadium, on the first floor view-restricting supporting columns. should begin in 2019, with Feyenoord match day. Many games sell out but of the Maasgebouw, Brasserie De Ajax are moneyed, PSV run by playing at the new arena by 2022-23. there’s an online service for those with Kuip operates Mon-Sat from 9am a multinational – 2017 Dutch Chosen to host 11 European finals less demand. Prices start at around until 4pm/5pm. On match days, it’s champions Feyenoord (feyenoord. including Euro 2000, regular venue Transport €30-€35 for seats at either end, in members- and usually reservation- com) are the people’s team. The day for Dutch Cup finals, De Kuip shares On match days, ticket-holders the Tribune only. If you’re here for the stadium tour, after that title win, 150,000 gathered national duties with Amsterdam may travel free on public transport or Tribune. It’s €40- you can enjoy a Club Zuid sandwich around Rotterdam’s City Hall to – it was here that Graham Taylor and a special train runs from €60 in the Olympiatribune and the and a draught Brand to go with it. celebrate. A fairy-tale hat-trick by famously imploded on the touchline Centraal – the terminus is Maastribune along each sideline. Dirk Kuyt brought the Dutch crown to in 1993. across Olympiaweg facing the During the game, the Heineken sold at De Kuip, Feyenoord’s revered home, Olympiatribune. An English-speaking receptionist can kiosks (pay with tokens, betaalmunten) for the first time since 1999. The home end is the Gerard Meijer help with enquiries on +31 10 292 38 89 is 2% ‘events beer’. After the match, it Tribune (aka Stadiontribune), colour- From stand C beside the main or email [email protected]. switches to regular strength. The stadium stands in the former coded yellow, with away fans usually entrance of Centraal station, tram shipbuilding district of Feijenoord allocated sector GG in the green, No.23 (every 7-10min) takes 20min Shops The Feyenoord faithful gather at the south of the Maas, where the club Willem van Hanegem Tribune (aka to reach Stadion Feijenoord, calling There are two Feyenoord FanShops Supporters Home bar, its interior a was founded in 1908. A bowl (or tub, Marathontribune) opposite. at central Beurs. behind the Maastribune, and two in history of red-and-white worship.

liberoguide.com 10 HOLLAND 2018-19 Alkmaar www.liberoguide.com/alkmaar

Golden Tulip Alkm r aa

Café ’t Hartje

Bed deals at the relaxing College Hotel Alkmaar Tourist Information Alkmaar by canalside Molenbuurt. (vvvhartvannoordholland.nl) has a hotel database and booking function. Beer Two sport-friendly bars stand out in Just the other side of the ring road particular. Gunnery’s by the canal on from the stadium, the Golden Tulip is Verdronkenoord is the only Irish-style a top-quality four-star, with a spa and pub, with regular parties, quality pub restaurant with its own wine cellar. The grub and the screening of most major bar is also handy pre-match and there’s sport channels. Facing it over the clubs in the last 55 years to break the with one change at Amsterdam free parking. water, Tante Sannie is ideal for match- Alkmaar Ajax-PSV-Feyenoord tripoly of the Sloterdijk. From Amsterdam Centraal watching and DJ parties. Dutch game. (€7.50), it’s 35-40min. Around the city centre, the King’s Inn North of Amsterdam, Alkmaar is on Koningsstraat is an ideal solution for The Hielander on Ridderstraat is more home to one of the most successful All would point to Alkmaar being one Trains and local buses run on the OV- a mid-range stay, a hotel/hostel mix. a Scots restaurant and whisky bar, Dutch sides in recent years. Alkmaar of Holland’s historic football hubs. But chipkaart system (€7.50) though paper Also central, in a higher bracket, the with evening-opening and reservations Zaanstreek, AZ to all, have qualified AZ are a modern phenomenon – as the tickets can be bought at Schiphol and Grand Hotel on Gedempte Nieuwesloot recommended at weekends. for Europe every season but two since club’s former title of AZ ’67 indicates, a on board local buses in Alkmaar. comprises 11 high-class rooms in a 2009 – when they won the title. reference to the year of its formation. suitably grand, historic building. For locals’ bars, head for the Houttil side Before AZ ’67 there was Alkmaar ’54, Alkmaar station is 10min north- of focal Waagplein, such as fun-focused Fans of Dundalk, Benfica and Lyon and before Alkmaar ’54 there was a west of the walkable city centre. The More affordable, set right across from Café ’t Hartje and more football-friendly have discovered a pretty, medieval, modest local amateur scene. stadium is in the far south of town, a the train station, the Hotel Stade Café Berrie’s at No.24. canal-ringed town, with a stadium on bus or taxi journey away. en Land is clean, convenient and the city outskirts to the south. UEFA Bearings comfortable, with 22 en-suite rooms Finally, for a huge range of beers, you’ll Cup finalists in 1981, thrice Europa From Amsterdam Schiphol Airport, Taxi Tervoort Alkmaar (+31 72 220 and rates including breakfast. It offers find 18 types on draught at the classic League quarter-finalists in recent 48km (30 miles) south of Alkmaar, a 1393) is a reliable local firm offering cheap weekend deals in December and Odeon on Hekelstraat, which also takes years, AZ have been only one of two frequent train (€9.50) takes 50min, airport transfers. January. There are further weekend its pool and live music seriously.

liberoguide.com 11 HOLLAND 2018-19 AZ Alkmaar www.liberoguide.com/azalkmaar

AFAS Stadion of the AFAS Stadion, you need a AZ Alkm Clubkaart, free from the club’s Dutch- only website.

The pricing system is similarly byzantine, with five categories of

matches. The cheapest tickets are raa in sectors K and M, either side of the away supporters, with prices set at €20, rising to €30 for Ajax, PSV and Feyenoord. A decent seat in sectors P, Q and R in the Molenaar-tribune runs between €30 and €40, according to the opposition.

With capacity at 17,000 and an average gate of 15,000, availability is limited.

Shop & Museum The Fancentrum (Mon 1pm-5pm, Tue- Sat 10am-5pm, match days) through the main entrance offers match in 1964, AZ are backed by art- Home fans gather in the Van der after the game – naturally, it is in heavy scarves and frilly pennants. Alongside AZ Alkmaar collecting financier, Dirk Scheringa. Ben-tribune, aka Ben-Side end. Away demand. is a display of vintage shirts, archive In 2006, Scheringa unveiled a new supporters are allocated sectors photos and souvenirs from AZ’s Dutch champions in 2009, AZ (az. stadium on the southern outskirts of K and L of the Alkamaarder Hout- The stadium is otherwise poorly European travels. nl) are enjoying their best period town. Built at a cost of €38 million, tribune, in one corner of the opposite served by city buses. From Alkmaar since the early 1980s. Back then, it matched the ambitions of well goal. The main stand, Victorie-tribune, station, the hourly No.163 (direction Bars coach George Keßler and striker supported Dutch club trying to break houses the club offices while behind Uitgeest) runs to Stadionweg and the The only venue near the ground is the took The Cheeseheads to into the Big Three. the facing sideline, the Molenaar- half-hourly No.4 to Rhijnvis Feithlaan, smart café/restaurant by the lobby a league title and a European final. tribune honours the brothers whose just behind the Golden Tulip Hotel of the Golden Tulip Hotel. Truffels, The current purple patch dates back The turning point came under Louis business savvy created the modern- near the stadium. Each journey is 10- where reasonably dressed supporters a decade, encompassing a second van Gaal in 2009 when AZ pipped day club. 12min, 8-9 stops each. gather for a pre-match drink. Dutch crown and the opening of a Ajax to the title. new ground, the AFAS Stadion. Transport Tickets At the ground, the Grand Café Van Regular European qualification, The stadium is too far to walk from In theory, tickets are sold at the Gaal overlooking the pitch is open Only one of two sides to break the a Dutch Cup win in 2013 and two town. On match days, a free shuttle Fancentrum (Mon 1pm-5pm, Tue-Sat Mon-Fri 8.30am-5.30pm, offering Ajax-Feyenoord-PSV monopoly on Europa League quarter-finals have runs from Alkmaar station from two 10am-5pm) at the stadium and online. breakfast and lunch. On match days, Dutch football since DWS Amsterdam since kept the club in the Dutch elite. hours before kick-off, then back again In practice, given the limited capacity it’s reservation-only.

liberoguide.com 12 HOLLAND 2018-19 Almelo www.liberoguide.com/almelo

Almelo Café de Stam Almelo

Were it not for local club Heracles, recent if brief competitors in the Europa League, there would be little reason to visit Almelo. A grey former textile town, Almelo has been put on the map by football.

The city council, which financed the construction of the club’s Polman Stadion in 1999, renamed the club Heracles Almelo. Now when the ‘Heraclieden’ compete in Europe, as in 2016, the world sees ‘Almelo’. Previously, the club existed as AVC, then SC ’74.

Carrying the club name of yesteryear, Van der Valk Theaterhotel amateurs AVC Heracles still wear the same black-and-white stripes as their forebears, and play at the same Bearings Journey time is 1hr 50min, either The top-quality Van der Valk Beer Bornsestraat ground as Heracles did The nearest Dutch airport to Almelo direct service or changing at Theaterhotel on Schouwbergplein has Almelo’s modest drinking options dot for most of the 20th century. It was here is underused Groningen 86km (53.5 . various lodging options, from budget to the pedestrianised centre, in particular that Heracles led their two title-winning miles) away. Qbuzz buses Nos.9 and an outdoor jacuzzi and views of Almelo. Grotestraat, where The Shamrock campaigns, the first under English 100 run to Groningen station 30- Two stations serve the town: Almelo, a lays on TV football and party nights. manager, Horace Colclough, in 1927. 40min away. From there, a regular 10min walk to the centre and, south of On equally central Marktstraat, the Huis Alongside, Café de Stam shows The ten Cate textile dynasty provided train runs to Almelo (€23) with one it, Almelo de Riet, a 10min walk to the van Bewaring offers contemporary Heracles games on a big screen. Over the wherewithal. change at Zwolle, journey time 1hr stadium. It’s a 3min rail hop between comfort in a converted jail. The best the road, ’t Hookhoes offers prime 40min. them – it would be a good 30min walk. rooms come with a roof terrace – one has beers plus, bizarrely, an Escape Room The move from Bornsestraat to the its own sauna. game. Polman Stadion in 1999 kept the ten Dutch trains and public transport run Taxi Oost Almelo (+31 546 455 755) are Cate connection. The Almelo textile on the nationwide travel card, the OV- based by the main station. Just outside the town centre, the Preston Towards the main square, Brasserie De company diversified, creating artificial chipkaart (€7.50). Palace provides access to a subtropical Linde has a nice terrace, as does NeilZ grass. Since Heracles gained promotion Bed water park, games, a cinema and live on Marktplein. Still on Grotestraat, the in 2005, top Eredivisie sides have run Amsterdam Schiphol is 159km (99 Dutch- and German-language Uit in music. landmark Taveerne ’t Wetshuys dates out onto ten Cate turf at the Polman miles) away. From the terminal, a Almelo (uitinalmelo.nl) has a database back to 1691, when the ten Cate textile Stadion. train runs direct to Almelo (€23). of accommodation. All B&B options are a fair trek from town. family first set up in Almelo.

liberoguide.com 13 HOLLAND 2018-19 Heracles Almelo www.liberoguide.com/heracles-almelo

is pretty good for many games – and in Her three sections of the stadium – provided you purchase several weeks in advance. a cles Almelocles Admission is €21 for the outer sectors in the home end and most seats behind the opposite goal, €26 in the outer sectors in B and F in the sideline Joop Schuman Tribune and €29 in middle sectors C-E there. A levy of €5 is charged for the visits of Ajax and Almelo de Riet (every 30min daily), a Feyenoord. journey of three minutes. From de Riet station, head down Rietstraat then For all information, email Ticketing@ over main Henriëtte Roland Holstlaan heracles.nl or call +31 546 817 070. and you’ll see a complex of sports pitches ahead. Just over Weezebeck Shop canal is the Polman Stadion – allow Choose between away light blue or 10-15min from de Riet station. classic black-and-white bar scarves, shirts of similar colour, or pick up a Closer to the ground, bus Nos.21 ‘Wij Zijn Heracles’ bottle opener at the runs from Almelo main station every FanServiceShop. 30min to Almelo Stadion, a journey of under 10min. Bus Nos.22 and 66 stop Bars at Almelo, Frederik van Eedenstraat If you’re coming from de Riet and the Polman Stadion by the canal, a 7-10min walk to the park, the first thing you’ll see is the stadium through the park or keeping Oranje Nassau clubhouse, with scarves Opened in 1999, it was revamped and Velten Tribune, named after another to the main roads, turning right at the around the bar. Heracles Almelo expanded in 2015 to accommodate a Heracles legend. roundabout. total of 12,080 seats. The home end Near main entrance to the stadium, The success of Heracles Almelo is named after Steve Mokone, the Skyboxes and VIP places now line Tickets Wok In Vuur En Vlam is a large Chinese (heracles.nl), European competitors in first black South African player to the Frits van der Elst Tribune, with Tickets are distributed for buffet restaurant – think meal and not a 2016, Dutch Cup finalists in 2012, is a star in Europe, whose two seasons at the best affordable seats in sectors several games in advance at the swift beer. relatively recent phenomenon. Heracles in the 1950s prompted a book C-E over the halfway line in the Joop FanServiceShop and online. For low- Heracles have been a top-flight and film about his life. Schuman Tribune opposite. risk fixtures, the FanServiceShop sells At the ground, Hart voor Heracles fans proposition since 2005, after the local on the day. gather in the Supporters Kavee ‘t Hart council linked the town’s name to the At the other end, away fans are Transport while those lucky enough to gain entry club’s and financed the construction of allocated sectors GG and HH (Ingang/ The easiest and quickest way from With average gates around 11,000 to the VIP bar will have a luxurious view the Polman Stadion. Gate 6) in the corner of the Folkert town is to take the train from Almelo to and a capacity of 12,080, availability of the pitch.

liberoguide.com 14 HOLLAND 2018-19 Arnhem www.liberoguide.com/arnhem

Near the station, the Best Western Arn Plus Hotel Haarhuis is named after the family who ran it a century ago. Destroyed in World War II, it h was rebuilt and reopened in 2013. em Nearby is the Hotel Old Dutch, a friendly guesthouse with a bar- restaurant.

Stylish B&B Vesting 10 sits in a grand property on the corner of Coehoornstraat.

With no hotels near the stadium, the Holiday Inn Express Arnhem at Nieuwe Oeverstraat 50 on the south Café Meijer side of town should be a reliable and convenient choice. Arnhem Bars There’s a bar zone around the focal De Wacht Bearing the yellow and black of Korenmarkt, where you’ll find Gelderland, Vitesse Arnhem are the Murphy’s Home and TV matches. oldest professional club currently A state-of-the-art stadium in Arnhem A mate of Roman Abramovich, Hertogenbosch, Amsterdam Schiphol Mick O’Connells also shows sport competing in the top-flight Eredivisie. South ushered in the European era. Chigirinski created close ties with is the best option, with direct trains while music-oriented The Move is a Frowned upon in Holland for also being A host of Euro 2000, the pioneering Chelsea and sacked managers at will. every 30min (1hr 15 journey time, rare case of a bar being named after the first Dutch club to have a moneyed GelreDome, with a retractable roof €17 single). If you’ve just missed one, a Roy Wood group. foreign owner, Vitesse have a history and convertible pitch, witnessed Pippo With their first major silverware after change at Utrecht. more linked to England than the Inzaghi convert a penalty for Italy and 125 years of activity, the Dutch Cup in At Beekstraat 2, Café Meijers is a former USSR. Bon Jovi strut their stuff that same 2017, Vitesse remain a major player The Dutch train network runs with lovely old-school Dutch drinking summer. in the domestic game. How they’re the OV-Chipkaart (€7.50) also valid spot. Locals also gather at De Wacht The railway hub of Arnhem is best perceived in Holland is another matter. for local transport in towns and cities. at Bovenbeekstraat 1, an intimate known for its Bridge Too Far, the scene The Yellow-and-Blacks, meanwhile, Arnhem’s consists of trolleybuses, bohemian place with a savvy, of war-time heroics made famous in sank lower down the league and Bearings unique in Holland. Arnhem Taxis can regular clientele. film. Originally Vitesse were a cricket deeper in debt. Georgian businessman Arnhem has no airport. Eindhoven’s be contacted on +31 26 260 2626. club that played along Rijnkade by the Merab Jordania, a during is 90km (56 miles) away, Amsterdam’s Best of the bunch is the Café Dutch branch of the Rhine, near the Dinamo Tbilisi’s golden years, took 106km (66 miles). As Eindhoven Hotels Heeren van Aemstel on a corner of bridge that would later become so over but things got messy when requires a bus from the airport into Visit Arnhem (en.visitarnhem.com) has Kortestraat, an atmospheric hang- famous. Aleksandr Chigirinski stepped in. town, then changing trains at ’s a database of hotels. out for old Vitesse fans.

liberoguide.com 15 HOLLAND 2018-19 Vitesse Arnhem www.liberoguide.com/vitesse-arnhem Vitesse Arn Vitesse h em in mind, this all-purpose arena on Vitesse Arnhem Arnhem’s southern outskirts has a 25,000 capacity for football and around The news that an ex-Gazprom 40,000 for the likes of AC/DC and Lady director, Valery Oyf, had taken over Gaga. Supporters are up close to the Vitesse Arnhem (vitesse.nl/en) in pitch, a detail insisted upon by Aalbers. 2018 raised few eyebrows in Holland. Also connected to Millhouse Capital The stadium is arranged in two tiers that manages the assets of Roman around the ground, with West the main Abramovich, Oyf is the latest in a line stand (Hoofdingang), Oost opposite, of ex-Soviet entrepreneurs overseeing and Noord and Zuid behind each goal. GelreDome the club, dating back to 2010. Away fans are usually allocated the sectors 125/225 and 126/226 of the But it was long-term chairman Noord end nearest the Oost Tribune, station, with the same €4.50 return Oost (Charly Bosveld) Tribune on the and-black merchandise. Current Karel Aalbers who took Vitesse from through gate Q. The Zuid (Theo Bos) fare for everyone else. sidelines is €25, rising to €45 for the second tops are navy blue with neon forgotten lower-leaguers in the mid- Tribune is the home end. best seats in the West (Just Göbel) blue sleeves and markings. 1980s to Europe. After a long gap Tickets Tribune. Under-16s are charged between the national league final in Transport Advance tickets are available from around two-thirds of these prices. Bars 1915 and promotion in 1989, Vitesse From Arnhem Centraal, trolleybus the MijnVitesse store at the ground Home fans swarm to the maintained an impressive domestic No.7 runs every 15min and takes less and online from the club. Tickets are For the visits of Ajax, Feyenoord and Supportershome Monnikenhuize record through the 1990s. Aided by than 10min to reach the GelreDome, also sold at the stadium on the day, PSV (aka Topwedstrijden), prices rise set up in the stadium grounds and strikers such as , Vitesse five stops away. Only season-ticket with a €2 surcharge and the need to around 20%. the Fanzone inside. Away fans and finished in the top six of the Eredivisie holders are entitled to free transport produce ID. neutrals have to make do with the for 13 straight seasons, taking on up to 2hrs before and after the For all details, email fanservice@ coffee, soft-drink and fast-food the likes of Real Madrid, Parma and match; otherwise pay the driver Home fans in the Zuid (Theo Bos) vitesse.nl or call +31 26 880 7337. outlets set up on Horecaplein Bordeaux in Europe. €4.50 for a return ticket. Tribune pay around €20 depending outside the main entrance or the on the opposition, similarly at the Shop Vitesse-branded drive-in hamburger Aalbers also conceived of the A shuttle bus for season-ticket other end, the Noord (Edward Sturing) Club shop MijnVitesse at the stadium chain nearby. Any proper drinking GelreDome. Built with Euro 2000 holders is also laid on from the Tribune. A half-decent seat in the proffers match tickets and yellow- needs to be done in town.

liberoguide.com 16 HOLLAND 2018-19 Breda www.liberoguide.com/breda

O’Mearas On Nieuwstraat, the Hotel a Bred Nassau Breda offers chic lodging, contemporary cuisine and cocktails. Also on the south side of town, the four-star Golden Tulip Keyser provides suitable comfort and convenience.

Beer Pubs and bars dot the historic city centre, with many options around Vismarktstraat. journey time) also runs every half- hour. Right by the main church, O’Mearas provides plenty of TV football. Nearby Breda station is north of the city centre on Schoolstraat, Mad Molly’s is run by a 10min walk away. For the stadium, a friendly couple and shows live sport. you’ll need a local bus, run by Arriva. Alongside, Dunne provides a late-night drinking option. The service also runs on the chipkaart system but you can pay on board, €3.75 On Vismarktstraat itself, Catch 22 is for one journey (ritkaart), €6 for a one- known for its plentiful beer choice. day pass (dalurendagkaart). On Grote Markt, Heeren van Breda million construction cost. The club sold Bus Nos.400 and 401 run every specialises in beers from nearby Breda the ground to the City, which now runs 10-15min from outside Arrivals to Taxi Breda (+31 76 522 8888) has Belgium, with occasional live music. the 19,000-capacity venue north-west Eindhoven station, journey time 20min. a fixed prices for airport transfers, Café Vulling offers pool, darts and Pretty Breda has a long-established of town. €100 from Eindhoven, Rotterdam or board games, its charming interior football culture that surpasses nearby Tickets are €4.24 from the machine Antwerp. done out with old beer posters. Tilburg for passion. Co-host of the Women’s Euro 2017, the at the stop or online from Hermes. stadium was renamed after NAC’s most The same journey costs €2.20 using Bed A few doors along, Café Sam Sam While flagship team NAC Breda only revered player, Antoon ‘Rat’ Verlegh. the nationwide travel card, the OV- By the station, the Apollo Hotel Breda specialises in local gin, jenever, while has one distant Dutch title and a Dutch The is the home of chipkaart (€7.50), also valid for rail City Center fills a former post office ’t Hart van Breda is a local touchstone. cup to show for more than a century of The Rats, the NAC yellow army. journeys. with 88 arty rooms. activity, the game’s significance here is Nearby Café De Bommel on Halstraat underlined by the city council stepping Bearings From Eindhoven station, a half-hourly Right by Grote Kerk, the three-star has live sounds and organised football in to save the debt-ridden club in 2002. The nearest airport to Breda is train takes 35min to reach Breda (€11). Hotel Sutor is handy for local nightlife. tournaments. Eindhoven, 51km (32 miles) away. Nearby, a landmark on Grote Markt Having built the FUJIFILM Stadium in There is no public transport between From Amsterdam Schiphol airport, since 1937, the Stadshotel de Klok has By the station, De Pint welcomes new 1996, NAC were struggling with the €13 the two. a direct train to Breda (€19, 50min a suitably old-school restaurant. arrivals with Dommelsch beer.

liberoguide.com 17 HOLLAND 2018-19 NAC Breda www.liberoguide.com/nac-breda N NAC Breda A C a Bred Returning to the top-flight Eredivisie in 2017, NAC Breda (nac.nl) are arguably the most passionately supported club in the Netherlands outside of the Big

Three.

NAC’s only title win so far, in 1921, involved Antoon ‘Rat’ Verlegh. His 40- year service to Breda was recognised when the new-build stadium adopted The main stand, Hooftribune, is split his nickname in 2006. into three tiers with a dividing row of business seats. The single-level Built at a cost of €13 million, the Eretribune runs along the opposite stadium was opened a year after sideline. ’s departure to Celtic in 1995. Transport The Rat Verlegh has its own Stadion With improvements and expansion stop on the No.2 bus from Breda rail to 19,000 capacity, budget cuts led to terminus. Exiting the station, veer Rat Verlegh Stadion relegation in 2015, after 15 straight right and head for the furthest bus seasons in the top tier. Facing eternal stop, Perron J. Buses leave every rivals Willem II in the play-off, Breda 15min Mon-Fri, every 30min Sat & [email protected] or call +31 76 521 Shop Bars won the first leg 2-1, only to fall to lose Sun. Journey time is 12min. 4500. The modest NAC Fanshop is on There are no outlets around the 3-1 in Tilburg. Lunetstraat by the Service- & stadium, not even at the Stada Stores To walk from the station takes 25min, Ticket sales are two weeks in advance Informatiedesk. There’s just enough shopping centre alongside. A year later, Breda’s Cyriel Dessers keeping on the north side of the canal online (voetbal.iticketsro.com/nac_ room for a few rails of yellow-and- claimed a play-off hat-trick in then right up Lunetstraat. breda). black shirts, with a smaller selection On match days, home fans gather Nijmegen to restore top-flight status. of second-choice white varieties. at the Café Beatrix on Lunetstraat. Tickets For most fixtures in 2018-19, prices Round the corner, well-heeled visitors Fanatical NAC fans occupy the With promotion in 2017, availability for are set at around €20 for the B-Side Museum are entertained at De Parel van het B-Side, Vak E behind the north goal many home games is limited. With a and Vak G behind the goals, €25 in the The NAC Museum (Wed 1pm-4pm Zuiden (‘The Pearl of the South’), on Lunetstraat. Supporters in the capacity of 19,000, the average gate for sideline Eretribune and €30-€35 in the or email [email protected]) was sponsors and friends at De Cordial. opposite end create an echo chant, 2017-18 was just under 18,500. main Hoofdtribune. funded and assembled by Breda offset by noise from visiting followers fans. Note the commemorative watch Visiting supporters should drink in alongside in sectors H/I at corner A NAC clubcard is free but distribution A premium is added for top fixtures, presented to Fanny Petit for winning town – and remember that football in (Hoek) 4 of the Zuidtribune. is to a Dutch postal address. Email for which a club card is needed. the 1921 national title. Breda is pretty partisan.

liberoguide.com 18 HOLLAND 2018-19 Doetinchem www.liberoguide.com/doetinchem

Raedthuys D Doetinchem oetinc

Regular competitors in Holland’s top flight, promoted back up in 2018, De Graafschap are the creation of a near h blind football enthusiast whose legacy em lives on in a grass-roots fan culture second to none in the Netherlands.

There is no place called De Graafschap. ‘The County’ are based in Doetinchem, the largest community in a rural area known as the Achterhoek. De Graafschap are the Achterhoekers, or the Superboeren (‘Super Farmers’).

The concept of the club as ‘The County’ and its blue-and-white colours come from founding father Johan ‘Joop’ Trinity’s Roodbergen, failing health when he set the best option, a live-music venue with up De Graafschap in 1954. It then took a TV screen for matches. the club nearly 20 years to reach the Bearings overall journey time 1hr 45min-2hrs, There are two hotel options in town. top-tier Eredivisie. Dutch trains and public transport run around €20 single. The most central, Stadshotel De Round the corner by the cathedral, on the nationwide OV-chipkaart (€7.50) Graafschap, sits behind the main Paddy’s is the only pub in town, with The Superboeren were transformed system. Doetinchem station is south of town a square, with doubles in the €100 range. Guinness and Grimbergen on draught, a in the early 1970s by coach Piet de 10min walk away. The stadium is a 10min Breakfast can be enjoyed on the roof decent menu and a TV for sport. Visser, later right-hand man to Roman Eindhoven Airport is 86km (53 miles) walk in the opposite direction, away from terrace. Abramovich at Chelsea. At Doetinchem, south-west of Doetinchem. Outside town. Alongside, locals fill the terraces of the de Visser’s mastermind midfielder was Arrivals is the stop for the No.401 bus A short walk north, the upscale bar/restaurants on the main square, the , and this combination to Eindhoven station (every 10-15min, Local buses are run by Arriva. Taxi firm Ruim Zicht fills a stately property on elegant Grand Café de Bank, funkier swept De Graafschap to the Eredivisie. journey time 20min). From there, Spenzer (+31 6 3650 2009) offers a set Ruimzichtlaan, with fine cuisine and a Trinity’s, food-oriented ’t Zusje and Later de Visser helped find the Doetinchem by rail takes 2hrs via fare to/from Eindhoven or Amsterdam fashionable bar. sleek Stadscafé Simons. players for Hiddink to make PSV an ’s-Hertogenbosch and Arnhem, single airports of €120. international success, and engineered about €20. Beer For a real beer bar, the wonderful the appointment of his former charge Bed The main bar strip is Grutstraat, just Raedthuys by the Town Hall changes as Chelsea manager – it all started at From Amsterdam Schiphol or Doetinchem has a VVV tourist off the main square, where thousands its selection every month. Currently , the club’s home since its Centraal the train requires a change information office (vvvdoetinchem.nl) but celebrated after promotion in 2018. Run you’ll find cool UTberg from nearby foundation. at Arnhem or Utrecht then Arnhem, no English-language online resource. by the affable Tom Wonnink, Merleyn is Vragender.

liberoguide.com 19 HOLLAND 2018-19 De Graafschap www.liberoguide.com/de-graafschap D De Graafschap e Gr

Cult club from the rural east, the Super Farmers of De Graafschap aaf (degraafschap.nl) gained promoted to

the Eredivisie in 2018. Four times this sc century, the boys from Doetinchem have bounced back up to the top flight ha p after a season or two of scrapping in the Eerste. With only three games won over the first half of the 2018-19 campaign, a play-off at the end would actually count as a bonus. atmosphere in. Current capacity stands at 12,600. A return to top- This is the kind of community flight football in 2018-19 means a club whose supporters fill the bar near full house every home game. they built themselves by the main entrance of the De Vijverberg, just Standing sections 15 and 16 are south of Doetinchem station. immediately behind the goal in the home Spinnekop end. Away fans are It was here that De Graafschap allocated 550 seats in sectors 13 and played their first professional game 14, set by the corner with the main De Vijverberg in 1954. De Vijverberg was knocked Vijverberg Stand. up with wooden stands and a 12,500 capacity, shortly after the club’s Transport online. Tickets then become available Ticket prices are affordable – around either side of the game. Away tops for foundation. Wood was then replaced The stadium is 10-15 minutes from three to four weeks in advance, again €16 behind the goals and in the 2018-19 are canary yellow. by concrete and the modern-day Doetinchem station – turn right as online. These must be printed not corners, and around €20 in the sideline stadium took shape. The West Stand you exit, head down Terborgseweg downloaded onto a mobile, as the Roodbergen Stand. Under-17s are Bars became the Spinnekop home end, then follow the signposts as you veer stadium gates do not have suitable charged around €10-€12. There are no bars or restaurants in in honour of Liverpool’s Spion Kop. diagonally left at the junction for scanners to read them. Online the immediate vicinity of the stadium. Opposite was the Groenendaal Stand, Lijsterbeslaan. There’s no bus stop in registration and purchase is Dutch- Supplements are added for the visits Home fans and neutrals gather in the and along the sidelines were the the immediate vicinity of the stadium. only. of Ajax, Feyenoord, PSV and Vitesse Supporters Kantine just inside the north Roodbergen Stand and south A taxi would be around €6. Arnhem. main entrance, where scarves from Vijverberg. There are no match-day sales. scores of clubs dangle over an island Tickets Shop bar. Beer here, and at kiosks behind the The rebuilt De Vijverberg was Admission to most matches is For information, contact the club on The match-day only De Graafshop Spinnekop, is Grolsch, purchased with intimate and closer to the pitch, exclusively to holders of a De +31 314 368 450 (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm) proffers blue-and-white merchandise tokens (munten) available from vendors with the corners closed to keep the Graafschap ClubCard, available free or email [email protected]. by the main entrance for one hour alongside.

liberoguide.com 20 HOLLAND 2018-19 Eindhoven www.liberoguide.com/eindhoven E ind h o Eindhoven

The industrial city of Eindhoven is home to two venerable clubs. Current champions PSV dominated the Dutch v game under Guus Hiddink in the 1980s en and mid 2000s.

Holland’s second most titled club is linked to the company they are named Facing it across Vestdijk, the Hotel NH after, Philips. The firm developed with Collection operates a Lazy Sundays the town around it. scheme for 3pm check-outs.

Shortly before the Philips brothers, Clustered around focal Markt, the Gerard and Anton, opened a sports Crown Inn is a reasonable three-star field for their employees in 1910, local while on the same corner, the Queen football enthusiasts founded EVV has rooms to match its grand café Eindhoven. downstairs.

Wearing the blue and white colours The Pullman Eindhoven Cocagne of the city, the Eindhovense Voetbal appeals to demanding business Vereniging were the people’s team, travellers. The equally central Boutique while the Philips Elftal, from 1913 Hotel Lumière probably wins out in the Philips Sport Vereniging, were EVV were relaunched as FC Eindhoven concourse to Eindhoven train station Bed Eindhoven’s hotel style wars. representatives of privileged, successful in 2002, based at Jan Louwers Stadion near the city centre. It also calls at Eindhoven Tourist Office (thisiseindhoven. industrialists. in Eindhoven’s leafy southern outskirts. PSV’s stadium, two stops from the com/en) has a hotel database. Beer station terminus. Tickets are €8 from Bars line Stratumseind. Sgt Pepper’s EVV, today FC Eindhoven, first met PSV The is conveniently the driver or €2.20 is docked from Near the PSV stadium, the Inntel Hotels (No.49) and the Tipsy Duck (No.26) show in the Lichtstad (‘City of Light’) derby located on the bus route from Eindhoven the nationwide travel card, the OV- Art Eindhoven is set in the former Philips football on TV, as does nearby O’Sheas. in 1915. Either side of World War II, the Airport, a short hop from the train chipkaart (€7.50). factory. If you’re staying at the airport, the Blauw-witten outshone their local rivals. station. Tulip Inn is built into the terminal. Close to the station along The city’s bus network runs on the Dommelstraat, the Trafalgar has been PSV stepped up a gear in the 1970s Bearings same chipkaart system – or pay €4 Towering outside the train station, The in operation since 1973. After-hours fun under coach . Ten years Eindhoven Airport is 7.5km (4.5 miles) upon boarding. Eindhoven is mainly Student Hotel also offers rooms to and live music can be had at concert later, Hiddink’s PSV won the European west of town. walkable, even the PSV stadium. tourists. venue Effenaar and cocktail/DJ haunt Cup and the Lempkes (‘Light Bulbs’) Plein 4. Around the corner, snooker club made regular appearances in the Bus No.401 (every 10-30min) takes Pin Taxi Eindhoven (+31 611 48 38 28) Walking distance away, the Crown Hotel Rex opens late while D’N Hertog serves Champions League. 20min to run from the terminal charges €26 from the airport to town. Eindhoven is a branch of the Eden chain. rare Belgian beers.

liberoguide.com 21 HOLLAND 2018-19 PSV Eindhoven www.liberoguide.com/psv-eindhoven

PSV Eindhoven De Aftrap VPS E ind h o

Runaway Dutch champions in 2015, last-gasp title winners in 2016, triumphant in 2018, PSV Eindhoven are based at the ground built by and named after their backers: Philips. v en

A works team, Philips Sport Verenigeng were formed at a company dinner to celebrate Dutch independence from Napoleon. PSV were crowned champions in 1929, by regional play-off.

Stadium and team improved after the war, PSV becoming Holland’s first club to appear in the European Cup. Philips Stadion van der Kuijien) is a popular match-day With old boy Kees Rijvers as coach, bar while the De Blauwe Lotus serves PSV won the UEFA Cup in 1978. Ten The Philips Stadium co-hosted Euro from the station, past Media Markt up bicycle bells and flip-flops. Look out quality Asian cuisine. Pick of the bunch is years later, under Guus Hiddink, a 2000 when its all-seated capacity Mathildelaan. for the 1913 collection of fashionable de verlenging (‘Extra Time’), a large bar/ side starring and reached 33,000. Here Figo’s Portugal tops and T-shirts. restaurant decked out in iconography of stormed the Dutch league came back from 2-0 down to beat Tickets PSV history. The bar leads to a VIP area and snuck through to win Europe’s England 3-2. As Dutch fans require a Club Card to Tours & museum of the ground where the match can be premier trophy on penalties. attend a game, a package is the only The PSV Museum (€7.50/under 13s enjoyed over local Bavaria beer. Current capacity is 35,000. Away way to see a league game at PSV. €5) covers the history of the club in Three months later, Philips unveiled supporters are allocated upper sector entertaining detail. It can be visited For hot drinks and snacks, Caffee 1913 a modernised stadium with a friendly MM between the Noord and West A silver package is €62.50, a gold one as part of a Dutch-language tour is by entrance 15. against Milan, PSV old boy stands, accessed through gates 35 €122.50, depending on ticket category. (€16.50/under 15s €14.50, booked in and all. and 36. For Ajax and Feyenoord, prices rise Dutch through the club website. For Over the road from the club shop, De to €85/€150. For all enquiries, email enquiries, email tours@.nl. Aftrap is a supporters’ bar done out in With stars such as Ronaldo, Transport [email protected]. colourful graffiti. Slightly further away, Romario, and Ruud van The stadium has its own stop on the Bars by the Inntel Hotel Art, Usine is a café- Nistelrooy, PSV won a dozen Dutch same bus line (No.401) that runs from Shop Around the stadium, Avant Garde is restaurant in an old industrial space, titles in 20 years – but never another the airport to the train station. From By entrance 17, PSV FANstore is the an upscale eaterie, Coen & Willy (a with deckchairs spread out in warm European trophy. town, walk ten minutes turning right club’s expansive outlet for mugs, reference to post-war stars Dillen and weather.

liberoguide.com 22 HOLLAND 2018-19 Emmen www.liberoguide.com/emmen

Stads-Hotel Boerland station itself, the B&B Villa Emmen on E Stationstraat is a friendly option. mmen

Central, comfortable Stads-Hotel Boerland on Hoofdstraat offers half- and full-board deals, and doubles at €85.

Multicoloured Hotel Ten Cate provides contemporary lodging on Noordbargerstraat, its restaurant equipped with a big TV screen.

Beer Bars and cafés line central Marktplein/ Hoofdstraat and fill the nearby retail hubs – but few alleviate the sense of drinking in a 1970s’ shopping precinct.

One happy exception is De drie De drie Paardjes Paardjes, a lovely, lived-in pub whose wooden interior is brightened by framed Emmen were crowned Sunday Amateur miles) from Emmen. From the Local buses are run by Qbuzz – use football shirts and TV match action. The Emmen champions in 1975, encouraging the terminal, a train takes 2hr 15min to your chipkaart or pay the driver €2.70 other bar with local character is Pierrot move to a new-build sports park on the reach Emmen (€27), also changing at on board for a Eurokaartje paper ticket. on Matissepassage, TV football part of When FC Emmen gained a surprise eastern outskirts of town. Zwolle. For the quickest service from its old-school allure. promotion in 2018 to the Dutch Amsterdam Centraal (2hr 10min), you Taxi Dorenbos (+31 591 303 535) can Eredivisie, few fans will have relished With Emmen’s top-flight status in 2018- need to change at Almere and Zwolle. be booked online (taxidorenbos.nl). Back on the main square, Café de the trip to a planned city in deepest 19, De Oude Meerdijk has seen its 8,000- Zwetser puts on DJs at weekends while rural Drenthe. Emmen usually gives plus capacity put to the test. Dutch trains and public transport Bed De Brasserie alongside offers 150 the outside world one reason to visit: across the country run on the To stay over near the stadium, the B&B beers by the bottle and has a Belgian its zoo. The last time this happened was in 2005, nationwide travel card, the OV- ‘t Oosterveld at Splitting 10 provides beer café on the top floor. when a young opened the chipkaart (€7.50). Touch in and touch loft-like rooms at around €60 a twin. While some 1.5 million people a year scoring for eventual winners Argentina out at the start and end of your journey. For something more party-oriented, come for a Wildlands Adventure, FC to beat Colombia here at the FIFA U-20 Also convenient and far closer to head round to Dalipassage, where Emmen, even during their promotion World Cup. Emmen train station is north of the the town centre, functional four-star DJs spin until late at the Grand Café season of 2017-18, struggled to attract mainly pedestrianised town centre a Fletcher Hotel Emmen stands by the Karakter. Alongside, the PLEIN Grand more than 3,000 for home games at De Bearings 10min walk away. The stadium is way stop for the No.12 bus that serves Café does twofer beers during happy Oude Meerdijk. Amsterdam Schiphol is 196km (122 out east – you’ll need a bus or taxi. the stadium and the station. For the hour.

liberoguide.com 23 HOLLAND 2018-19 FC Emmen www.liberoguide.com/fc-emmen F C

FC Emmen EMMEN

Formed in 1925, professional since 1985, FC Emmen reached the Eredivisie for the first time in 2018. Making their top-flight debut at Den Haag, Emmen won 2-1 but thereafter the campaign proved a predictable struggle, with heavy defeats at Ajax and PSV. In his first post as head coach, should be credited with getting Emmen up – then picking up vital points against Eredivisie clubs of considerably higher pedigree.

Emmen are based at De Oude Meerdijk, built in 1977. First named the Meerdijk Stadion, then Univé, then most recently JENS Vesting, the stadium comprises four stands. Home ultras, the Brigata De Oude Meerdijk Fanatico, gather in sectors 25 and 26 of the Tribune, named after Emmen’s most famous old boy. At FC Emmen when playing in the Eerste from station 15min). Hourly bus No.26 Sales start a week before any upcoming Bars the opposite end is the Noordtribune, Divisie. does the same journey, calling at fewer home game, at 12.30pm on the Thursday. There are no bars in the business where there are 400 seats for away stops, in 10min. park surrounding the stadium but two fans in sectors 14 and 15 closest to the The stadium sits in a business and sport Seats are only available in the restaurants facing each other across Oosttribune. park, surrounded by other pitches. The Taxi Dorenbos (+31 591 303 535) quotes Oosttribune (€20, under-20s €16, under- nearby Meerdijk offer meaty mains and few notable features are the match-day €15 from station to stadium. 11s €12) and behind the goals in the Jan standard beers: US-style Steakhouse Along the sideline parallel to supporters bar, and the club museum, van Beveren and Noordtribune (€16, €13, Goodfella’s and standard Dutch De Stadionplein and car park, the main a modest free-of-charge display open Tickets €10). Prices rise by 20% for a visit by Serre. Hooftribune was renovated and during office hours. While FC Emmen remain a top-flight Ajax, PSV and Feyenoord. expanded as part of the 2001 rebuild. proposition, filling De Oude Meerdijk Under the Oosttribune, the spacious, With seats in bright red, it contains the Transport to its 8,300 capacity, tickets are at a There are no sales at the ground. TV-equipped match-day Dug-Out press area and skyboxes. The pitch is The stadium is on the eastern outskirts premium and distributed at two per bar is run by Emmen supporters and artificial. of town, too far to walk from the centre person online – to members only. Shop welcomes friendly neutrals, while the or station. Bus No.12 runs from stop Contact [email protected] to arrange On match days, a kiosk operates by Brigata Fanatico ultras have their own For 2018-19, a capacity 8,300 or near it H at the station, via the centre, to membership, provided you do not hold a the stadium gates, stocking a modest little hut behind the Zuidtribune home almost tripled what was the norm for Stadionplein (every 30min, journey time clubcard for any other Dutch team. selection of red-and-white souvenirs. end.

liberoguide.com 24 HOLLAND 2018-19 Groningen www.liberoguide.com/groningen

Groningen Gronin

A major northern trading centre, Groningen has recently been a regular destination on the European football g en circuit.

Flagship club FC Groningen, competitors in the top-flight Eredivisie De Groote Griet every season but two since 1980, were Dutch Cup winners in 2015. to Groningen – change at Zwolle if Groningen came good in the 1980s, you’ve just missed one. Note that trains when the Koeman brothers made their run direct from Zwolle to Gronigen debuts. In 2005, the club moved to the Europapark beside the stadium new Stadium, at a leisure hub – otherwise from Amsterdam, change south of town, Europapark. at Groningen Hoofdstation.

Bearings TaxiCentrale Groningen (+31 50 549 Used by Flybe for flights from London- 7676) quotes €30 from Groningen Southend, Groningen has its own airport. airport, 14km (nine miles) south- On Oosterstraat, the Hotel On the main square, three-star Hotel Foreigner-friendly pubs with TV west of town. Shuttle bus 100 and Bed Schimmelpenninck Huys has a de Doelen is, for price and location, sport include The Dog’s Bollocks on scheduled service Qbuzz No.9 run to Toerisme Groningen (toerisme. brasserie and in-house bakery. ideal, with the Drie Gezusters café Oude Boteringestraat, O’Malley’s on the main train station, Hoofdstation, groningen.nl/en) lists local hotels. downstairs. Oosterstraat and the Pacific Aussie journey time around 35min. The fare The affordable Pension Tivoli on Pub & BBQ next door. A fire in 2018 is €3 with a nationwide OV-chipkaart Near Groningen station, the Martini Kleine Haddingestraat is basic but Beer gutted much of the Pacific but it (€7.50), valid on trains and all public opened in 1871 – today it’s a decent cheap. Reception operates afternoon- Student-swamped Groningen is chock- should reopen in 2019. transport across Holland. Otherwise, three-star with a quality restaurant. In only. a-block with bars. Starting on the main buy a €5 Eurokaartje (valid 90min) the same group, the Bud Gett Hostel square of Grote Markt, De Groote Griet On Gedempte Kattendiep, O’Ceallaigh from the driver. For shorter journeys on central Rademarkt offers double At the other end of the scale, the has a huge screen for soccer and a features traditional music while in town, there’s a 1hr €2 Eurokaartje. and triple rooms as well as dorms, Prinsenhof on Martinikerkhof is spacious terrace in summer. Alongside Chaplin’s Pub has TV football. Hoofdstation is a 5-10min walk from the and 24hr reception. where distinguished guests and are the Drie Gezusters coffeehouse city centre. dignitaries stay in 34 individually and its busy stablemate, Hoppe. Jut en Jul at Rademarkt 5 is a The City Hotel Groningen is a handy designed rooms. Over on Oude friendly spot with full focus on From Amsterdam Schiphol 192km mid-range option on Gedempte Boteringestraat, Groningen Hotel De Behind, there’s another bar hub on football when it matters. Graceful (119 miles) away, an hourly train (€26, Kattendiep, with a sauna and roof Ville also features historic touches, Poelestraat, with lively venues such Café de Sleutel is set on the journey time 2hr 10min) runs direct terrace. with modern amenities. as Oblomov and the Feest Café Klein. Noorderhaven waterfront.

liberoguide.com 25 HOLLAND 2018-19 FC Groningen www.liberoguide.com/fc-groningen

Hitachi Capital Mobility Stadion Tickets are later sold at convenience F C

store Primera, such as the one at Gronin Nieuwe Ebbingestraat 2 near the NH Hotel de Ville.

Purchases are possible with a credit card issued by a non-Dutch bank but the obligatory registration process is in g en Dutch. You can email the club at info@ fcgroningen.nl or call +31 50 5 87 87 87.

You’ll pay €18 for a seat in the corners and behind the goals, €25 down the sidelines and €29 for the best seats in sectors L and M. Prices increase by €4 for games with Heerenveen, Ajax, Feyenoord and PSV.

Shop All thing green and white are stocked in the FanCorner by the main stand and Tonny van Leeuwen Tribune.

The late 1990s saw a growing rivalry the Tonny van Leeuwen Tribune, is There are buses too, the No.5 every 10- Bars FC Groningen with Heerenveen, a Groningen- named after the goalkeeper who died 15min from the main square of Grote The Euroborg is part of the Europapark Friesland clash now referred to as in a car crash in 1971. Markt (€1.50 with a chipkaart), journey leisure complex out of the city centre Dutch Cup winners in 2015, FC the Derby of the North. Groningen’s time 20min. – you won’t find any street-corner bar. Groningen (fcgroningen.nl) are the reputation for fan trouble contrasted Visiting supporters are allocated the Pride of the North, based at a new-build with the family-friendly image of upper tier, sectors OO, PP and QQ, Tickets Stadium outlets fill FC Groningen stadium in a retail complex way south their regional neighbours. the corner where the Piet Fransen You don’t need a ClubCard (€5) for Horeca close to the Fan Corner. As long of town. Tribune meets the Koeman Tribune. most games, though it does give as you’re not an away fan, the most This began to change with the move you priority when tickets are first suitable spot is the Hattrick’s Pub, lined Today’s club, wearing the city colours to the new-build Euroborg in 2006, Transport distributed. General sale starts a with framed black-and-white photos of green and white, sprang from GVAV, easier to police. The renamed Hitachi The Euroborg is just across from few weeks before the match, online of FC Groningen action. For visiting formed as Unitas in 1915. British Capital Mobility Stadion has a the purpose-built Groningen (kaartverkoop.fcgroningen.nl) and supporters, there’s little nearby choice. military internees had a significant capacity of 22,550 – attendances are Europapark rail station. Trains leave in person, first at the FanCorner The Fair Play Casino serves soft drinks impact on how the game developed 20,000-plus – with four two-tiered frequently from Groningen main Groningen (Mon-Fri 10am-5.30pm, to over-18s only. Opposite, the outlet here. Be Quick, local rivals of GVAV, stands ranged close to the pitch. The station, 1 stop/3min away, €2.20 with Sat 10am-5pm) where the main stand at the Plaza Sportiva gym contains the became national champions in 1920. home end, sectors A/AA-H/HH in chipkaart. meets the Tonny van Leeuwen Tribune. Laifood pan-Asian eatery.

liberoguide.com 26 HOLLAND 2018-19 The Hague www.liberoguide.com/thehague

De Boterwaag For a decent internet cheapie, Th near a tram stop, three-star Hotel

Studio offers singles, doubles and one e H dorm.

ag ue Beer The city’s bar hub is in the tangle of streets around Papestraat and Oude Molstraat. Key venue there is the Muziekcafe de Paap, formerly the Het Hof van Berlijn café, where ADO Den Haag were formed in 1905, now a music The Hague venue.

In 2015, for the club’s 110th anniversary, Alongside, the wonderful De Libertijn is the mayor of The Hague opened a a convincing candidate for best bar in museum to ADO Den Haag. Playing town. Run by fans of Red Star Belgrade, in the municipal colours of green and it has pool tables and TV football. yellow, ADO have long been the city’s main representatives on the football Nearby, Cafe ’t Hoekpandje is another pitch – but all too rarely Holland’s flag- Bearings Chipkaart system. A single ticket is classic spot, a timeless corner bar bearers in Europe. The Hague shares its airport with otherwise €3.50 (valid 60min) from the dating back to 1874. Green-and-yellow Rotterdam. There’s no direct public driver, a day pass €6.50. ADO scarves (‘The Return of the A governmental centre of half a transport to The Hague, 20km (12.5 Legend’) surround old Tizer ads and a million people, the third largest city miles) away. From the airport, an HTMC taxi (+31 70 dartboard. in the Netherlands, The Hague has 390 77 22) local to The Hague charges always trailed behind the big three of Rotterdam city bus No.33 (every 10min) €45. Round the corner, flag-decked Ned Het Spinnewiel Amsterdam, Rotterdam and Eindhoven runs to Meijersplein station, where Kelly’s has been a stalwart pub for in footballing terms. Metro E (every 10min) serves Den Haag From Amsterdam Schiphol airport, decades. Centraal (26min). a frequent direct train to Den Haag Hofkwatier, including the Parkhotel, the Home of national champions in ice Central (€8.30) takes 30min. An HTMC Novotel Den Haag City Centre and the For live sport on big screens and hockey, rugby and darts, this city of For this and all journeys in the taxi charges €67. Paleis. sought-after beers, The Fiddler has embassies and international tribunals Netherlands, you require an OV- its own microbrewery and meal deals. has never laid on a heroes’ welcome for chipkaart (€7.50) – about €4.20 will Bed For historic character and boutique Nearby, the Huppel Pub is a popular the Dutch champions in peacetime. be deducted for the airport-Den Haag The Hague VVV Tourist Office (denhaag. touches, the Corona on Buitenhof is set spot. journey. com/en/tourist-office) has a hotel in a former Dutch coffeehouse. In 2007, ADO moved to the high-security database. Near the transport hub of NOI, close By day, the main square, Grote Markt, is Kyocera Stadion, renamed the Cars In town, public transport consists of There are no hotels near the stadium. to Centraal, Het Spinnewiel is a handy, a fair choice for drinks. De Boterwaag is Jeans in 2017. trams and buses, running on the same Many lodgings dot the historic affordable option. usually lively.

liberoguide.com 27 HOLLAND 2018-19 ADO Den Haag www.liberoguide.com/ado-den-haag

Cars Jeans Stadion A

ADO Den Haag D DO

The ADO of ADO Den Haag

(adodenhaag.nl) stands for ‘Alles H en Door Oefenen’, ‘Everything Through Practice’. For decades, though, the

flagship club of The Hague has had aag far too much practice at finishing mid-table.

ADO’s position of tenth in the all- allocated Gastenvak X, accessed via time Dutch league table is a poor gates 25-26, opposite. Alongside reflection on the third biggest is the family sector, named after city in the Netherlands and its one of Mansveld’s team-mates, Lex governmental centre. Schoenmaker.

Aiming to reverse this state of Neutrals are best located in the affairs, in 2014 wealthy Chinese sideline Haaglanded Tribune, press entrepreneur Wang Hui bought the and VIPs facing it in the Eretribune. club for nearly $9 million. Despite this, ADO remain mid-table. Transport There’s no tram stop by the stadium Moving to the Cars Jeans Stadion – the nearest one is Forepark, 10min motorway to Donau, bear left – the €12-€17/€14-€19 respectively. trophies won in ADO’s title years, 1942 in 2007, ADO are cheered on by from Den Haag Centraal by tram stadium is head, 7min away. A Club Card (€10) is required for and 1943. club mascot Storky. The new-build Nos.3 or 4, or metro line E (every games against Ajax, Feyenoord and stadium holds 15,000. Even of such a 5-10min, 10min journey time). Tickets Utrecht. Bars reasonably modest size, the ground The ticket office at the stadium opens On the way to the stadium from Forepark, has been nicknamed by fans ‘A Hague At Forepark, turn right at street Tue-Thur noon-6pm, Fri noon-8pm. Shop there’s only one venue: Sallo’s. This coffee’, always poured out to fill half level as you come out onto a main Tickets are also distributed at Primera The Fanshop behind the Aad Mansveld contemporary brasserie overlooks the the cup. road, Donau. Walk straight ahead, newsagents – there are a couple close Tribune sells all manner of green-and- business park that provides the weekday past various warehouses and Sallo’s to Den Haag Centraal. If buying in yellow gear, including car wing-mirror clientele here. Created with security in mind, the restaurant. The road bends right, person, you’ll need to show ID. covers, iPhone cases and greetings Cars Jeans Stadion features Happy bringing the stadium into view. Allow cards – new baby ones featuring the At the stadium, a hut behind the Aad Crowd Control, photos taken of each 10min. Online prices are €2 cheaper – for club stork, of course. Mansveld Tribune opens on match days for spectator as they enter the ground. most league games, €19 instead of home fans. The main outlet is the Brasserie Alternatively, get the train from €21 in the Aad Mansveld Tribune, Museum by the Zuiderpark corner (entrance 5-6). Home fans occupy the Aad Mansveld Centraal to Den Haag Ypenburg, 1 €27.50 instead of €29.50 in the Opened in 2015, the ADO Den Haag Match-day admission is by reservation only Tribune, sectors F-J. Away ones are stop (7min) away. Cross under the Haaglanden. For children up to 12, it’s Museum displays the medals and – contact [email protected].

liberoguide.com 28 HOLLAND 2018-19 Heerenveen www.liberoguide.com/heerenveen

Hajé Heeren v een

Bed the train to Heerenveen (€6) 20min The Heerenveen website away. (ngoudenplak.nl/English) has a Dutch- language accommodation database. Beer Bars are clustered where Vleesmarkt There are no hotels in the town centre. meets Oude Koemarkt, inside a bend in The closest one to town is the mid- the canal. Sport is usually a prominent range Hajé, near the junction for the feature – the sport of speed skating. A7 from the Businesspark Friesland- West and the A32 for the stadium. Café It Houtsje on Oude Koemarkt the actual capital, Leeuwarden. While journey time is just under 2hrs, a single To walk to the stadium about 1.5km displays a shirt signed by Olympic Heerenveen the Friesland patriots have been regular ticket €24. away, a canalside path runs by the champion Eric Heiden. The once football- European competitors, local rivals SC motorway. The centre of Heerenveen oriented Café Paul Kruger next door You would be forgiven for thinking Cambuur of Leeuwarden are in the Dutch trains and public transport run is the same distance. is now an extension of restaurant De that Heerenveen is the main city of lower-tier Eredivisie. on the nationwide OV-chipkaart (€7.50) Lachende Koe. Friesland, a defiantly independent system. Way south-east of both town and province at the northern tip of the Heerenveen’s home is the stadium, the Golden Tulip Tjaard Also here, Café Bleeker gets lively on Netherlands. Stadion, east of the compact town Heerenveen train station is north-west Orangewoud offers a spa, pool and Saturday nights, as does De Blauwe centre, named after the revered player of the centre – the stadium is south- restaurant a taxi journey away. The Kater diagonally opposite. Alongside, Its football club, Sportclub who led the club to nine northern east. To the right of the train station as four-star Fletcher Hotel-Restaurant Eetcafé de Buurman concentrates Heerenveen, wear the blue-and-white provincial titles during and after the war. you exit is the bus terminus, services Heidehof has tennis courts, a on grilled meat and beer. Nearby De stripes of the provincial flag, and play run by Arriva on the chipkaart system. bowling alley and a French-inspired Swetser on Vleesmarkt attracts a Frisian anthem ‘De Alde Friezen’ Bearings You can also pay on board, €2 per ride. restaurant. It’s linked to town and younger crowd with late-night party fun. before each home game. Amsterdam’s Schiphol airport is stadium by the hourly No.115 bus that 138km (86 miles) from Heerenveen. An The centre is compact and runs until late in the evening. By the canal on Nieuwstraat, But SC Heerenveen, ‘De Superfriezen’ hourly train runs direct to Heerenveen pedestrianised. Taxicentrale Heerenveen’s football fraternity gather at (‘The Super Frisians’) represent a – another service requires a change Heerenveen (+31 513 203 333) has a In Leeuwarden, the mid-range Oranje Café de Skoffel, an honest, hard-drinking modest community a third the size of of platforms at Zwolle. In each case, fixed rate for Schiphol airport of €149. opposite the station is convenient for bar geared towards rock music and darts.

liberoguide.com 29 HOLLAND 2018-19 SC Heerenveen www.liberoguide.com/sc-heerenveen

(ticketing.sc-heerenveen.nl) (Dutch- SC language only), through the club app Heeren on Apple and Android, and in person from the Feansjop club store behind the Westtribune on Abe Lenstra Boulevard.

A club card is not essential but check with supportersservice@sc-heerenveen. v nl or phone the club office (Mon-Fri een 8.30am-5pm) on +31 513 612 100. Pay on the day can happen but not for bigger seating’, ie many spectators will be on games. their feet at certain times of the game. This rounded approach to crowd The best seat costs €26 in the management ensures a lively sideline West- or Osttribune. It’s atmosphere every game – Frisian pride €23/€21 to sit/stand behind the goal does the rest. in the Noordtribune but availability is extremely limited at best, and €23 for Away fans are allocated the south-east a seat in the Zuidtribune end. For the corner of the ground, between the visits of Groningen, Ajax, Feyenoord and Zuidtribune and sideline Oosttribune, PSV, prices rise by €6. accessed through entrances L and M. Shop Transport Amid the blue-and-white merchandise Named after the best player to have Abe Lenstra Boulevard has its own in the Feansjop behind the Westtribune, SC Heerenveen come out of Heerenveen – in fact, one stop beside the stadium, served by bus you’ll find Heerenveen umbrellas, of the best to have come out of Holland Nos.17, 48 and 115 from the terminus frilly pennants and Nordic hats, and a European competitors ten times – the stadium is a modern arena of next to Heerenveen train station. It’s a surprising number of books related to since 1998, Sportclub Heerenveen 26,000 capacity. short journey and infrequently served at all-time best player Abe Lenstra. (sc-heerenveen.nl/welcome) not only weekends – you’re as well hopping into represent the modest community of Opened in 1994, the ground was a taxi or strolling across town, overall Bars Heerenveen but Friesland, a province expanded two-fold before Heerenveen walking time station to stadium 20min. Family-friendly outlets fill the Fryslân of northern Netherlands with its embarked on six consecutive If you’re in town already, it’s 7-10min via Fean Plaza, the largest supporters’ own flag, language and anthem. campaigns in the UEFA Cup/Europa Heerenveen fans proved themselves Van Kleffenslaan – the continuation of hospitality area in Holland. For a simple All combine for the displays of League, five of them lengthy and sensible enough to occupy a standing Nieuwstraat, site of fans’ bar de Skoffel. beer and snack, the main match-day regional pride whenever Heerenveen lucrative. Even in a poor season such section, Vak STA, behind the goal in the bar/restaurant by entrance A behind – Hearrenfean to locals, or ‘Fean’ for as 2015-16, average gates are 23,000- home Noordtribune – there’s no fencing Tickets the Westtribune has tables spilling short – stride out onto the pitch at the plus – anything less than a near full either. The sectors around it, 11, 13, Advance tickets go on sale several onto the forecourt and tasteful framed Abe Lenstra Stadion. house is rare. 411 and 414, are designated as ‘active weeks before the match, online images of Abe Lenstra inside.

liberoguide.com 30 HOLLAND 2018-19 Sittard www.liberoguide.com/sittard S Sittard itt

In a narrow strip of the Netherlands a squeezed between Belgium and rd , Sittard is a typical Limburg town, with a pretty market square and a strange local dialect. De Prins Flagship football club Fortuna Sittard celebrated their 50th anniversary in 2018 with promotion to the top-flight Eredivisie after an absence of nearly two decades. Fans turned Markt square into a field of yellow and green during the celebrations.

The club plays at the Fortuna Sittard Café Schtad Zitterd Stadion south of town, walking distance from the train station. Beer Bearings Bars and restaurants line the main The nearest airport to Sittard is square, Markt. The most prominent Maastricht Aachen 16km (ten miles) Eindhoven Airport is 84km (52 miles) Bed dates back to the late 1920s and was is Café Schtad Zitterd, a much-loved south-west of town. Arriva bus No.30 away, with a direct train connection In Sittard-Geleen (insittardgeleen. renovated in 2017. local landmark. Alongside, De Buren runs from the terminal to Sittard bus every 30-30min (45min journey time, nl) has a detailed hotel database in has a big screen for matches. Across station, by the train station, twice an €14 single). From the airport terminus, English. On the main square, De Limbourg the square, Café de Hollande also hour Mon-Fri, hourly at weekends. head straight out to the stop for the Sittard was restored in 2015 but shows games and offers many beers Journey time is 30min. No.401 buses to Eindhoven station Opened in 2013 right by Fortuna Sittard retains its historic look, its restaurant on tap and by the bottle. (every 10-15min, journey time 20min). Stadion, the Hotel City Resort offers terrace occupying a large space by St Dutch trains and public transport run match packages of an overnight stay, Michael’s Church. Further round the square, Tapperie on the nationwide OV-chipkaart (€7.50) From Amsterdam Schiphol, the train two-course dinner, ticket and free use of De Gats and Het Hophuys are also system. Touching in (and out!) with your requires a change at Utrecht, overall the extensive sports and spa facilities. Round the corner, the Hotel Merici ale specialists. Just behind on OV-chipkaart costs far less than buying journey time 2hr 10min, €25 single. features contemporary four-star Limbrichterstraat, De Kup is another a ticket from the driver. Facing each other over a crossroads rooms with flat-screen LCD TVs classic old bar woven into Sittard’s Local buses are run by Arriva. The between Sittard station and town and rain showers filling a former urban fabric. Also close to the square, Taxi Sittard Geleen (+31 46 26 00 206) city centre is a short stroll away, the centre, mid-range De Prins has been monastery. In the same price bracket, Café ’T Sjterfhoes dates back over a should charge around €40-€50 to/from stadium a 15min walk or quick bus in the hospitality trade for 80 years historic Casa Mia was converted into a century and puts up a screen for big the airport, a 15min journey by car. journey south. while family-run Oranje Hotel Sittard B&B in 2017. games.

liberoguide.com 31 HOLLAND 2018-19 Fortuna Sittard www.liberoguide.com/fortuna-sittard

Fortuna Sittard Stadion If there are any tickets left, the offices Fortun at the stadium open 1hr before kick- off. These hours are sometimes extended. The other option is ticket resales agency viagogo. a

For details on availability and S itt sales, email the club at tickets@ fortunasittard.nl. a

The best seats are in Vak A and D rd either side of the halfway line, €21 or €29.50 for premium ‘Topduels’. Fortuna Sittard Everywhere else, it’s €17.50/€25, plus discounts. These are all online prices Celebrating the club’s 50th – it’s €2 extra per ticket when bought anniversary by gaining promotion in person. to the top-tier Eredivisie in 2018, Fortuna Sittard (fortunasittard. Shop nl) divided their first five decades The Fanshop usually only operates between the first and second flights. on match days, with occasional Friday opening if Saturday demand will be During that time, Sittard reached two heavy. cup finals, losing both but gaining access to Europe, only to be tonked Home fans occupy the north goal, celebration. The other sideline stand around €8-€9. Coming back from the Bars by Everton on their way to the Cup- Fernando Ricksen Side. Visiting is divided into Vak C-E. stadium, it may be an idea to ask the Many gather at the Restaurant Winners’ Cup win in 1985. supporters are allocated a section adjoining hotel to call a cab for you Medals at the City Resort Hotel of the Zuidtribune nearest the main Transport – it’s €12 into town. behind the main stand. On offer The Fortuna Sittard Stadion features stand. This allows for easier policing Buses are hardly worth the bother. are Bavaria and Swinkels beer on a hotel alongside, with an ALDI along Madridstraat (surrounding From Perron D on the concourse Tickets draught, plus mixed meat platters supermarket within. streets are named after major alongside the Sittard train station, With most home games in 2018- and filling main dishes. European football cities, Milan, bus No.32 runs every 25-30min Mon- 19 either sold out or close to it, Capacity is 12,500, fine when average Madrid, Lisbon and… Zürich). Sat, hourly Sun to Parijsboulevard/ availability will be a real issue while Behind the main stand, by the gates were under 2,000 in the Stadion two stops away. You may as Fortuna are in the top flight. Fernando Ricksen statue, the Eredivisie. Even in the promotion The main stand, across from the well either walk or take a taxi. Head supporters’ match-day bar 10 Beers season of 2017-18, it was under hotel, is lined with skyboxes. Behind right out of Sittard station towards Online sales first require Dutch-only And A Hattrick would welcome 5,000. Now, with Ajax, Feyenoord and are the club shop and supporters’ the railway bridge, cross it and keep registration, although people living neutrals but not away fans. DJs spin nearest rivals Venlo and PSV coming bar, and a bust of cult hero Fernando going in the same direction, ideally up outside the Netherlands are not loud anthems for pre- and post-match to town, tickets are like hen’s teeth. Ricksen with his forearms clenched in Europaboulevard. A taxi should cost exempt. parties.

liberoguide.com 32 HOLLAND 2018-19 Tilburg www.liberoguide.com/tilburg T Tilburg il b ur

Between Eindhoven and Rotterdam, Tilburg lacks the illustrious football g heritage of either, the main square of this former textile hub filling with supporters Stadscafé Meesters whenever flagship club Willem II gain promotion or enjoy a cup run.

Nearest local rivals NAC Breda, with whom Willem II contest the Brabant derby, dismiss the club as ‘Stillem II’ (‘Silent II’).

Named after the Dutch monarch who fought alongside Wellington at Waterloo, Willem II, the Tricolores, sport the some venues in the pub hubs of Heuvel patriotic red, white and blue of the Dutch and nearby Piusplein, indicating the place flag. Tilburg was where Willem II, the is ticked off as part of a beer traipse. king, had his headquarters during the Belgian Revolution of 1830 – the modern- On terrace-lined Heuvel, Stoffel is good day border is now almost walking for seasonal beers. Alongside, the Café- distance from the town, and closer to the Bar Heuvel 15 puts the accent on wine, Koning Willem II Stadion that stands on while late-night Le Clochard is party- the town’s southern outskirts. a half-hourly train takes 20-30min to a day ticket (dalurendagkaart) €6. In town, the two hotels overlooking the focused. Look out for ‘3rd Half’ happy hour reach Tilburg (€7). Taxi Tilburg (+31 13 777 7777) quotes €69 main square of Heuvel are the Mercure on Saturday evenings, with seats on the Bearings from Eindhoven airport. Tilburg Centrum and, alongside, the heated terrace at a premium. Eindhoven is the nearest airport to From Amsterdam Schiphol airport, for independent City Hotel Tilburg, with a Tilburg, 31km (19 miles) away. Tilburg change trains at Breda or Den Bed traditional bar. Over on Paleisring, Ruby’s goes big on TV Bosch (’s Hertogenbosch), overall journey Tourist Office VVV Tilburg has no English- sport. On nearby Oude Markt, the Café Trains and local transport run on the time 1hr 30min, €19 single. language hotel information. By the station, Het Wapen von Tilburg is Anvers offers a choice of 100 mainly but Dutch OV-chipkaart (€7.50) system – top a hostel-like, old-school inn whose seven not exclusively Belgian beers, ten on up as you go. Tilburg station is just north of the town The nearest hotel to the stadium is a rooms, five of them twin, have shared draught. centre a short walk away. The stadium standard ibis just off the motorway but bathrooms. To the right as you exit the airport is on the southern outskirts and you’ll you’re far from town. Further along the The stately Stadscafé Meesters stands on terminal, bus Nos.400 and 401 (€3.50, need a bus or taxi. Local buses are run south ring road at Kempenbaan 2, the Beer the same narrow street, Monumentstraat, €2.20 with an OV-chipkaart) run to by Arriva on the OV-chipkaart system. A Bastion Tilburg is comfortable but still out Tilburg was built for a bar-crawl – in fact, as the Café Marinus, where Willem II were Eindhoven station 20-25min away, where single journey (ritkaart) is otherwise €3.70, of the centre. you’ll see ‘Kroegentocht’ displayed inside formed in 1896.

liberoguide.com 33 HOLLAND 2018-19 Willem II www.liberoguide.com/willem-ii

transactions in cash or by debit card Willem only. There are also print-at-home e-ticket sales at voetbal.iticketsro. com/willem_II/.

For low-risk games, there are also II

sales on the day from 90min before kick-off, by cash or debit card.

For all enquiries, contact +31 13 549 0590 or email [email protected]. Transport From perron 8 at Tilburg station, The cheapest seats are behind the Arriva bus No.8 (destination Het Laar/ south goal, sectors L and N, €22, Laarstraat; Mon-Sat every 20min, Sat M being €25. The home north end eve/Sun every 30min) takes 10min/8 opposite is season-ticket holders stops to reach Laarstraat. From the only. Opposite the main stand, the bus stop, keep walking in the same Lange zijde, prices are €27.50 and it’s direction for 200 yards along the main €35 in the main Eretribune. road of Oude Goirlese Weg – you’ll see the stadium diagonally opposite at the Games with Ajax, Feyenoord, PSV and main junction with Ringbaan Zuid. NAC Breda are all €5 extra (under- 12s €2.50) and require registration. Regional De Lijn bus No.450 (direction Koning Willem II Stadion Turnhout in Belgium) runs hourly from Shop Tilburg station (perron B), arriving To the left of the main entrance, the The club has long had a policy of in 1992 with the construction of the right by the ground at the Stadion stop Willem II Fanshop is a large store Willem II showcasing talent then selling on to present-day stadium. itself. with a black-and-white mural of the bigger clubs. Later Arsenal star Marc club’s title-winning team of the 1950s Named after the Dutch leader at Overmars played a season in Tilburg Capacity is an all-seated 14,500. Home Tickets and club mascot Kingo in various Waterloo later headquartered here, before joining Ajax, the revenue going fans occupy sectors A-C behind the A club card generally isn’t required forms. Willem II (willem-ii.nl/Willem-II) have towards the modernisation of the Kingside goal, filled with season-ticket for ticket purchase at Willem II. For rarely performed royal heroics on the Koning Willem II Stadion. holders. high-risk fixtures, though, such as Bars football field. Three times champions of the derby with NAC Breda, sales are There are no bars around the ground. Holland, once during World War I, twice The site, south of town towards the Away fans are allocated sector (Vak) D, limited to registered supporters at two In the main building, the large match- in the 1950s, the flagship club of Tilburg Belgian border, has seen football action segregated but right next to the home per person. day supporters’ bar, the Jupilercafé in has been bouncing for almost a century. First a municipal end. For certain high-risk games, D’n Beitel, opens from 2hrs before between top and second tier for most of sports park, it welcomed Willem II in against NAC Breda in particular, there is Tickets are sold at the stadium kick-off and also to screen Willem II the modern era. 1923. A long-mooted rebuild began an agreement not to allow away fans in. reception office (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm), away games.

liberoguide.com 34 HOLLAND 2018-19 Utrecht www.liberoguide.com/utrecht

Kafe België U Utrecht trec

Representing the historic destination of Utrecht, second only to Amsterdam h t during Holland’s Golden Age, flagship club FC Utrecht are a fairly modern construct.

The fourth largest city in the Netherlands, this railway hub lagged Utrecht at Janskerkhof offers late behind Arnhem and where Sunday check-outs and bike rental in football was concerned. Before a the Old Town. single Dutch league was created in 1954, amateur clubs from Utrecht Beer barely figured in the higher regional There are bars all over the city centre, division, let alone the national play- more bohemian ones at the southern offs. end near the university.

To redress this imbalance, the most Canal-facing Kafe België on prominent local sides combined to Oudegracht is one of the better create FC Utrecht in 1970. choices, big on football and bigger on Belgian beers. Laid-back Ledig Erf at With this new identity came an Tolsteegbrug stages beer festivals on its increase in hooliganism. The A nationwide OV-chipkaart (€7.50) is Taxi Utrecht 24 (+31 30 260 7000) same stretch, B&B Hartje is beautifully large terrace. Galgenwaard was rebuilt with security valid on trains and all public transport accepts credit cards and has a flat rate located by the canal. in mind in 1982. Since then, FC Utrecht across Holland. of €47 to Schiphol. Back on Oudegracht, grand Winkel have won three Dutch Cups and At the stadium end of the city centre, van Sinkel is a local landmark. Pub- competed regularly in Europe, hosting In Utrecht, local trams and buses Bed the chic Court Hotel on Korte like Florin on Nobelstraat hosts quiz Liverpool and Celtic at their compact are run by U-OV, €6.20 for day pass, Visit Utrecht has an excellent English- Nieuwstraat has a hefty price tag. nights and stand-up comedy – Mick ground south-east of the city centre, €2.90/€4.50 for a single ticket, from language hotel database. O’Connells on Jansdam has multiple surrounded by outlets, offices and a machines by platforms. Using the OV- Behind the City Theatre, the wallet- big-screen sport and pub grub. petrol station. chipkaart is much cheaper. The nearest lodging to the friendly Hostel/B&B Utrecht City Galgenwaard, ’t Singelhuis at Center provides dorm lodging and Another venue for football-watching Bearings Utrecht station is just west of the city Tolsteegsingel 44, is a high-end B&B private singles/doubles. The affordable is the ten-screen Pool Café on Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport is 53km centre – the stadium is south-east, with one room and one apartment – and Apollo Utrecht City Centre at Ganzenmarkt, with 12 full-size billiard (33 miles) from Utrecht. A regular and too far to walk – trams leave from rates to match. Just over the water, La Vredenburg 14 is a short walk from the tables. For an honest Dutch bar, Café de train direct from the airport takes the CS Jaarbeurszijde stop next to the Perle on Twijnstraat is of similar style train station. Stadsgenoot sits on Breedstraat north 30min to reach Utrecht Centraal (€9). station. and price, over €100/double. On the Also central, the Hotel NH Centre of the historic centre.

liberoguide.com 35 HOLLAND 2018-19 FC Utrecht www.liberoguide.com/fc-utrecht

form. Applicants may not hold F C U membership for any other Dutch club.

Tickets are distributed three weeks h trec before each match through the Fanshop by the main entrance and online. For less attractive fixtures, admission

can be bought on the day with a €1 t surcharge.

Contact [email protected] for all Current capacity is 23,750. The home information. Bunnikside occupies one end. Away fans are allocated sectors V and W of For most league games, admission is the Cityside (west) end nearest the €29 in the main stand, €23.50 in the Zuidzijde south sideline, whose U sector Zuidtribune opposite and €18.50 behind can also be used for visiting supporters. either goal. For games against the Big Three, it’s €39.50, €31.50 and €26.50. Transport Over 65s are charged at 25% discount, On match days, a shuttle bus leaves CS under-18s 40%. Jaarbeurszijde stop on the Zuid side of the Utrecht Centraal 90min before Shop kick-off, returning for up to 1hr after the At the main entrance, the FC Utrecht Galgenwaard final whistle. This service is direct but Fanshop stocks replica kits in standard far busier than regular public transport. red and white, and away light blue. Note never a prominent football hub in the an immediate effect since arriving in It requires a €2 token, sold at the pick- also the T-shirts (‘FCU Since 1970’) with FC Utrecht amateur era. September 2018, though he’ll be looking up points. images of the city skyline. for more goals if direct European Three-time Dutch Cup winners and With the backing of the local council qualification is to be achieved. Also from CS Jaarbeurszijde, city Bars regular European competitors, and Dutch FA, Utrecht were created bus No.41 takes 10min to reach Halte There are no bars near the ground, only FC Utrecht (fcutrecht.nl) haven’t from three long-established local From oval velodrome to hooligan-proof beside the outlets within the stadium building, dropped out of Holland’s top flight teams. Settling on a red-and-white kit rectangular football ground to 21st- stadium, leaving Perron D5 every 15min with varying degrees of suitability pre- since their formation in 1970. – the colours of the city’s coat-of-arms century all-seater, the Galgenwaard daily, running until after 11pm. or post-match. If you need Japanese – the new club adopted the stadium, has moved with the times in quite cuisine, Sushi Today can provide. Always behind the Big Three of Ajax, Galgenwaard, of its most successful dramatic fashion. Tickets Number Four is hired out according to PSV and Feyenoord – as typified predecessor, DOS. More than half the home games occasion while stylish bar/restaurant by the sale of a young Dirk Kuyt in Today it has four stands close to the during the domestic season require DITO behind the Zuidtribune might put 2003 – Utrecht represent the fourth Renowned coach of pitch, office blocks at each corner, a Clubkaart (fcutrecht.nl/clubkaart), on post-match DJs to encourage fans biggest city in the Netherlands, Zenit, Rangers and PSV fame has had and business around the exterior. issued free via a Dutch-only application to linger.

liberoguide.com 36 HOLLAND 2018-19 Venlo www.liberoguide.com/venlo

the same family, the Hotel American Venlo has 18 rooms and a brasserie. Also here, you’ll find the more down-to- earth cheapie, the Stationshotel.

Further into town, right on Parade, the Hotel Puur is trendier and more contemporary.

Alde Mert Beer Bars line the main street of Parade and sidestreets leading off it. At Venlo No.69, Shannon’s Irish Pub features live music, live TV sport and late Walking distance from the German opening hours at weekends. Next door, border in the far southern province alongside the Jan Klaassens Museum, of Limburg, Venlo is home to one the Café Vader Klaassens was once of the most venerable clubs in the run by the father of the famous VVV Netherlands. player, but has since been given over to the rock fraternity. Keef not Klaassens Founded in 1903, VVV-Venlo had their is given a prominent spot on the wall. heyday in the 1950s when two of the most revered names of the pre-Cruyff Opposite, the Café Mundo weekend era, and Venlo-born Jan nightspot shows games at weekends. Klaassens, ran out for The Good Old. Stadion was built to replace Dutch trains and public transport stadium a 15min stroll further from it, where VVV have been based since run on the nationwide OV-chipkaart town. Arriva buses leave from the Down a little passageway on Klaassens was Venlo through and 1972. (€7.50) system. Touching in with your concourse alongside station. Keizerstraat, De Klep serves sought- through. His father, Sjraar, ran a café OV-chipkaart to Eindhoven station will after ales on draught. Round the on Venlo’s main street, Parade, which Bearings cost just over €2, a loose ticket from Taxi Service Venlo (+31 6 230 3663) corner, Café De Keizer offers live later incorporated the cigar shop A number of airports surround the machine by the stop is €3.50. accepts credit cards. music and late-night pool. that VVV bestowed upon Klaassens Venlo. Perhaps the most convenient in gratitude once he retired. Twenty is Eindhoven, 71km (44 miles) away, From Amsterdam Schiphol, a direct Bed Back on Parade, Take Five is a popular years after his death in 1983, the with a direct train connection every train runs every 30min, €24, journey Venlo Tourist Information music café, De Galerie a busy little bar club transformed it into a one-player 30min (40min journey time, €10 time 2hr 10min. From Amsterdam (lustforlimburg.com) has a hotel while Locomotief shows major games museum, filled with memorabilia. single). From the airport terminus, Centraal, you need to change at database. on TV. head straight out to the stop for the Utrecht or Roermond. Klaassens played at De Kraal, whose Nos.400/401 buses to Eindhoven Immediately opposite the station, the In the centre by Markt, Alde Mert is restaurant still stands today. Also station (every 10-15min, journey time Venlo station is south of the town Hotel Wilhelmina is a cosy three-star an age-old landmark whose terrace on Kaldenkerkweg south from town, 20min). centre a short walk away, the with a decent restaurant. Nearby, in opens in summer.

liberoguide.com 37 HOLLAND 2018-19 VVV-Venlo www.liberoguide.com/vvv-venlo

VVV-Venlo Seacon Stadion – De Koel VVV-Venlo

Top-flight competitors VVV-Venlo (vvv-venlo.nl) have sniffed at the Dutch title only once, in 1961. The Good Old finished third, behind a 100-goal Feyenoord machine powered by former Venlo midfield legend Jan Klaassens. A Klaassens museum was later created business section behind. Opposite, the in the cigar shop VVV gifted him, and seated Zuidtribune is roofed. a statue stands outside De Koel, the club’s modest ground. The ticket office and club shop are at the main entrance. Today the 8,000-capacity Seacon Stadion – De Koel is named after its Transport sponsors. The stadium is a 15min walk down Kaldenkerkerweg from Venlo train In Holland, this quaint ground is known station, in the opposite direction to for the long staircase used by players town. From Perron C on the concourse to run down onto the pitch. As of 2013, by the station, bus No.2 runs every this pitch is artificial turf. 30min (every hr Sun) seven stops to Spechtweg, just off the main road to In 2017, the club assumed ownership the stadium 2min away. of the stadium, outgoing club chairman ClubCard is valid for five years and is Westtribune and Nordtribune at yellow-and-black first kits, the red Hai Berden instigating a €12.5-million Tickets issued free. €20 each. Covered seating in the change strip, badges, scarves and rebuild of De Koel starting in 2018. The Tickets become available two weeks Westtribune is €28. keyrings. result will be an all-covered stadium of before the match, first online, by A match-day ticket outlet also 12,000 capacity. creating an account at Dutch-only operates at the main entrance from It’s €33 to sit in the sectors (Z1-Z2, Z6- Bars Mijn VVV-Venlo (mijn.vvv-venlo. 90 minutes before kick-off – check Z7) of the sideline Zuidtribune nearest Just past the stadium on De Koel currently consists of five nl), then in person at the FanCentre with the club ([email protected]) the goals, €38 over the halfway line Kaldenkerkerweg, De Kraal is a standing sections in the Hai Berden- (Mon-Fri 8.30am-12.45pm, 1.30pm- about availability and any ClubCard (Z3-Z5). century-old rustic restaurant that once tribune, two standing sections 5pm) by the entrance to the stadium requirement. Tickets cannot be served VVV’s first ground of the same (Gastenvak) for away fans in the top on Kaldenkerkerweg. A €2.50 levy is arranged by email, however. For the visits of Ajax, Feyenoord and name. corner of the Westtribune behind charged for over-the-counter sales. PSV, a €10 levy is charged, and you’ll the opposite goal, with open seating The cheapest admission (€22.50, have to arrange a ClubCard. At De Koel, the Lindeboom in front and roofed alongside. For most games, a ClubCard is not under-18s €15, under-14s €10) is VoetbalCafé behind the main stand Open seating also lines the main required – the visits of Ajax, PSV and standing in the Hai Berden-tribune. Shop is a match-day bar for home fans and Nordtribune, with covered seats in the Feyenoord it is a prerequisite. The The cheapest seats are in the open The club shop at the FanCentre stocks neutrals, with music laid on.

liberoguide.com 38 HOLLAND 2018-19 Zwolle www.liberoguide.com/zwolle

Bilderberg Grand Hotel Wientjes Z Zwolle w olle The story of football in Zwolle, capital of province in north-central Netherlands, is one of merger, business and progress. Flagship club PEC Zwolle hide a whole patchwork of history behind their simple, three-letter acronym.

In 1910, at the Hotel Koenders on focal Grote Markt, two local clubs agreed to Voorstraat combine forces: P for Prins Hendrik, E for Ende Desespereert Nimmer and C for Combinatie.

In 1935, PEC moved into the municipal Gemeentelijk Sportpark, later referred to as Oosterenkstadion after the surrounding area. The club developed a rivalry with of Deventer, the so-called IJsselderby, (€21). Journey time is 1hr 10min. Dutch Bed another contemporary makeover of Beer and have been a top-flight fixture since trains and public transport across the Zwolle Tourist Information (zwolle. a landmark building, in this case the Bars dot the historic centre, with 2012. In 2014, they won the Dutch Cup. country run on the nationwide travel nl) has a simple but Dutch-only hotel former mayor’s residence. drinking and dining options on card, the OV-chipkaart (€7.50). Touch database. Melkmarkt. There the Belgische Keizer Until it was knocked down in 2007, the in and touch out at the start and end of In the city centre on Rode Torenplein, is one – its Zaal De Staminée has a pull- Oosterenkstadion was also the base your journey. Right beside the MAC3PARK Stadion, the more modest Hanze Hotel Zwolle down screen. Nearby, the homely De for Holland’s women’s football team. the four-star Hotel Lumen is part is set on the foundations of the Vier Jaargetijden offers sought-after Opened in 2009, the new stadium is Zwolle station is south-west of the city’s of the 2007-09 stadium rebuild. medieval gateway into town. Rates are Yakima Red on draught and Brewdog by now the MAC3PARK. It sits in a complex historic centre a short walk away. PEC’s On match days, you can hire one around €100-€110 without breakfast. the bottle. comprising training pitches, a hotel, stadium is a fair trek east of town. Local of the skyboxes or reserve a table retail outlets and, controversially, a buses, run by Regio IJsselmond, also at the upscale Bluefinger Lounge For a reliable mainstream chain, Voorstraat attracts younger drinkers, casino. run on the chipkaart system. A ticket is restaurant. near the historic centre but and who gather at student-only, multi- otherwise €2.30 from the driver. walking distance to the stadium, bar Het Vliegende Paard. The one Bearings By the station, stately Pillows Grand the Campanile on Schuttevaerkade pub in town is Sally O’Briens on Amsterdam Schiphol is 121km (75 Based near the station, Taxi Zwolle (+31 Hotel Ter Borch underwent a major comprises 55 doubles, four singles Bethlehemskerkplein, great for big- miles) from Zwolle. From the terminal, 38 337 7297) can run you to the stadium redesign in 2017. Alongside, the and a restaurant where a buffet screen TV football – and with 11 beers a half-hourly train runs direct to Zwolle for around €16. Bilderberg Grand Hotel Wientjes is breakfast is served. on draught.

liberoguide.com 39 HOLLAND 2018-19 PEC Zwolle www.liberoguide.com/pec-zwolle

PEC Zwolle Z PEC

Dutch Cup winners in 2014, PEC Zwolle w (peczwolle.nl) are still feeling the loss of coach , who bowed out in olle 2017 after taking his home-town club to Europe.

As a striker in the late 1970s, Jans also spearheaded Zwolle’s previous purple patch. To sit or stand behind the home north Apart from these two brief spells, goal is €18, to sit in the opposite Zwolle were mainly a second-tier Klaas Drost Tribune, €18-€22. Along outfit, representing a trading town in the sideline Fred Patrick Tribune, it’s Overijssel. €18-€31.50. For top games against Ajax, PSV and Feyenoord, prices rise The MAC3PARK Stadion (‘Mac Drie by €5-€6. Park Stadion’) stands on the site of the former Oosterenkstadion, built in Shop 1934. It was here, 50 years later, that Behind the main stand on Johan Cruyff played his last official Ceintuurbaan, the PEC Zwolle match, and the main stand was later Fanshop proffers home shirts of blue- MAC3PARK Stadion named after him. Following the 2007 and-white hoops, away tops in white rebuild, this became the Henk Timmer and third-choice in black. Tribune, a fans’ poll also deciding on Expanded to 14,000 capacity in 2018, No.3 leaves from Stand A3 outside holders of a ClubCard (€7.50, four- the Fred Patrick Tribune opposite and the MAC3PARK Stadion is perhaps the station, reaching ‘Stadion’ nine year validity) – applicants have to Bars the Klaas Drost Tribune behind the the only one in Europe with an area stops away in under 15min. The No.8 register online in Dutch and may not Behind the main stand, the Bluefinger south goal. Away fans are allocated the specifically for blind supporters. The sets off from Stand B. Bus line 1 be a member of another club. Restaurant in the Lumen Hotel offers three sectors nearest the Fred Patrick Blindentribune in sector 30 allows the from Stand A2 goes as far as Sophia pre-match meals with wine at around Tribune. sightless, and their companion (guide Hoofdingang, by the hospital, a Advance purchases are distributed €50/head. The good news is there’s dogs are not encouraged) to enjoy the short walk to the south stand. via the Fanshop and online. not only a Bluefinger Lounge bar, but The home north end was more named game thanks to a headset and warm it’s open 24 hours a day. Sensible non- by a public outcry when Marten Eibrink, drinks during the game. Tickets Most areas of the ground, apart hotel residents are welcome to use it. who had twice saved Zwolle from ruin, With capacity at 14,000 and average from the main Henk Timmer had not been among the suggested Transport gate of 13,000-plus, few tickets Tribune, will have some kind of Home fans gather in the Jupiler stand names. The PEC crew sit in upper Several buses serve the stadium are sold on the day. In addition, availability a few weeks ahead of Supporterscafe behind the home sectors 1-5, and stand in sectors 2-4. north-east of the town centre. The most home games are only open to time. north end.

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