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Tatler-July-2019.Pdf 110 FAR AND AWAY THE WONDERS OF CAMBODIA From the magnificent temples of Angkor Wat to the wilderness of the rainforest, then on to the regal splendour of Phnom Penh, Norah Casey discovers the magic of Cambodia. AFTER 20 YEARS OF TRAVEL WRITING I’ve in north-western Cambodia, and the gateway to come to appreciate the many facets that make a the incredible remains of the Khmer civilization. country beautiful. When I’m asked what’s the one It was hardly recognisable from my last visit nine place I recommend visiting, I always say Cambodia. years ago. Like most other Cambodian towns and My first visit was back in 2010 and I was mesmerised cities, the people of Siem Reap fled from the brutal by the people, so welcoming and gracious after Khmer Rouge to the countryside in 1975. Since Pol everything they have endured. Pot’s death in 1998, the tourism industry revitalised This time I went slowly but with a huge back to Angkor Wat to surge over the past revisit these magnificent decade. The old colonial temples, but we also buildings, shopping and ventured further afield, commercial districts kayaking through are still at the heart the water villages on of the town centre, Asia’s largest lake and but there’s a distinct travelling deep into the hipster vibe to a new rainforest of Cambodia. generation of hotels, We spent our final guesthouses, craft shops days following the in and restaurants around footsteps of Jackie the Wat Bo and Psar Kennedy in the regal Leu areas. splendour of Raffles in Phnom Penh, sipping tea WHAT TO SEE in the classy Elephant Cambodia is home to Bar with the Royal over 4,000 temples Princess Sita Norodom, the niece of the current but the most revered are on the doorstep of Siem King of Cambodia. It was quite the trip. Reap. Angkor Wat is the largest religious monument There are many things I love about Cambodia but in the world and considered to be one of the the people are what won me over when I first visited, ‘seven wonders’. But it was almost lost to future so proud of their Khmer heritage and culture. generations. In 1992 it became a World Heritage Art and craftsmanship is ever present and central Site. At the time, illegal excavations, pillaging and to Cambodian life. And the food is quite unlike even land mines threatened to destroy the site and it anywhere else in Asia with strong French influences was added to the List of World Heritage in Danger and an emphasis on fresh vegetables and fruit served sites. Restored and protected by UNESCO, this simply. incredible temple complex was moved off the danger Our first stop was list in 2004. My guide for the day was Lors, born in a Siem Reap, a town small village north of Siem Reap, an amiable expert APSARA: THE ROYAL DANCE irishtatler.com itaug_norahtravel_NC2.indd 108 04/07/2019 16:12 ANGKOR WAT 111 on the history of the Angkor temples (booked through guide. Before long we were kayaking in the tranquil liveit. Indochineex.com). waters, gliding through the floating villages and Angkor Wat Temple: The most significant and world flooded forests, while keeping a watchful eye for the famous temple in the park is Angkor Wat, the one the many rare birds that thrive in this incredible vast entire site is named for. The distinctive ancient stone inland sea. The ebb and flow of the Tonlé Sap means façade appears on the nation’s flag. the villagers have to move homes, Teams of elephants and men built shops, schools depending on the TA PROHM TEMPLE Angkor Wat in the 12th century for water level. As the sun set and the King Suryavarman II as a spiritual fishermen headed home we toasted home for the Hindu god Vishnu. the quiet splendor of the lake, If you are short on time, Angkor a million light years away from Wat should be top of the list. This the bustle of Siem Reap. magnificent temple is a treasure Exploration and expert trove of art and incredibly intricate guides at Indochineex.com. wall carvings depicting Hindu legends. Robam Apsara: Part of The ‘Tomb Raider’ Temple: The the Khmer culture for jungle had all but subsumed the more than 1,000 years, beautiful temple of Ta Prohm when this classic Cambodian French archaeologists rediscovered royal dance is mesmerising Angkor Wat in the 20th century. and well worth doing the During the restoration work of this “The jungle had all ‘tourist’ thing of catching ancient Buddhist monastery, the a performance. We went precarious co-dependency of the but subsumed the to Apsara Terrace at THEAM’S HOUSE giant strangler fig tree roots and the Raffles Grand Hotel the loosened stones was maintained. beautiful ‘Tomb D’Angkor for the show and The two survive in tandem, buffet. See Raffles.com. creating such a unique façade that it Raider’ temple of Ta became world famous because of its Markets: Also known as Psah Chas, appearance in the movie Lara Croft: Prohm” the Old Market is between Pub Tomb Raider. But the lichen covered Street and the river and great for a Ta Prohm is one of the most daytime browse. Sivutha Street is spiritual and atmospheric temples, full of shadows and the main thoroughfare and home to Central Market light and a testament to how precarious and precious and Angkor Night Market. The Made in Cambodia these ancient ruins are. market opens nightly and as the name says, everything sold is made locally. One of the loveliest places to visit, WHAT TO DO especially if you want to take home something truly Theam’s House: Set amongst tropical gardens, unique and authentic, is Artisans Angkor, home to Theam’s House is the home of Cambodian artist and traditional Khmer craftsmanship. designer Lim Muy Theam where his private collection and beautiful art, sculpture and lacquer work are Tuk-Tuks: We went everywhere on foot or by tuk-tuk, created onsite. Having spent decades reviving the still the quintessential way to get around. The good Cambodian art scene Theam now trains a team of drivers know exactly where to stop to get the best protégé artisans’ apprentices. See Theamshouse.com. views of the temples at sunset. It is worth befriending one and sticking with him for the entire visit, he will The Floating Villages: A real highlight of our stay be the best tour guide and ensure you get home safely was a boat trip on the Tonlé Sap lake, the largest each night. freshwater lake in Southeast Asia with one of the world’s most vibrant ecosystems. Even better, we had Phare: This Cambodian adventurer and conservationist Nick Butler as our Circus is a social SUNSET ON THE TONLE SAP LAKE irishtatler.com itaug_norahtravel_NC2.indd 109 04/07/2019 16:52 112 WAKING UP IN THE WILDERNESS FAR AND AWAY entrepreneurship project that teaches young people exceptional from the gleaming black and white tiled dance and acrobatics providing them with a living floors to the handcrafted furnishings and local art. The wage and a career. We caught one of the nightly well-stocked personal bar kept us hydrated over long performances – White Gold is an incredible journey lazy sun drenched afternoons and Salas was always on through theatre, dance and acrobatic feats. hand to serve lunch in the shade of the rooftop living See Pharecircus.org for tickets. room and breakfast in the morning sun by the pool. WHERE TO STAY My own personal space at Villa No 2 was matched with The curious traveller craves novel experiences, equally dramatic surroundings with towering sculpted adventurous stays in places with emotional facades including the giant ‘hands of meditation’ and engagement and an eco-extravagance which allows a mural of King Jayavarman. We didn’t venture too an immersion in beauty without damaging the far from our palatial home but on the first evening we planet. Making hotel enjoyed a contemporary experiences that twist on some classic reshape how we engage Cambodian dishes during with borrowed spaces a seven-course Khmer is the foundation for VILLA LIFE Tasting Menu at Shinta AT SHINTA Mani’s flagship Kroya Bill Bensley’s quest for MANI SIEM hotel design innovation. REAP restaurant. My first encounter with a Bensley designed Bensley Collection hotel was in 2009 Shinta Mani Wild: Zip when we checked lining across the trees into Hôtel de la Paix, to the landing bar for an unbelievably cool a welcome drink has oasis in Siem Reap (no to be one of the most longer there). This time exhilarating hotel I stayed in two very arrivals I have different, yet very distinctively Bensley- ever encountered. designed, retreats, both personally created Minutes later, I and operated by the designer. was stepping out ROOF TOP ENTERTAINMENT of the harness and Bensley Collection Shinta Mani Siem sipping the camp’s Reap: In a quiet cul-de-sac in the French signature tequila quarter by the river, three very different and pineapple Shinta Mani hotels co-exist, tailored cocktail, my for different travellers. I stayed at the heart hammering most exclusive of the three, in one of as loud as the the 10 opulent Khmer inspired villas at the flagship waterfall crashing beside the colonial tented lounge. Bensley-designed Shinta Mani Siem Reap. For a brief It was an invigorating start to a three day adventure period of time I stepped into the pampered lifestyle in the wilderness of Cambodia’s rainforest. It took of a luxurious villa resident with my own butler, the us many hours to get there, having flown from Siem ever attentive Salas, a nine metre personal lap pool Reap to Phnom Penh we drove for about four hours I could dive into from the bedroom, my own roof over increasingly rocky roads towards the Cardamom garden, an outdoor granite bath set in an atrium Mountains.
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