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Tuesday, February 12, 2013 Women's Wear Daily $3.00 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2013 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00 Available at: 68 Greene Street - Soho | 5th Ave. at 54th Street NEW YORK WOMAN EVA MENDES WWD MILESTONES TO DO LINE FOR DENNIS BASSO AT 30. SECTION II NEW YORK & CO. PAGE 4 POP-UP STRATEGY Dior In Major Push Of Raf Simons’ Line By MILES SOCHA PARIS — Raf Simons’ fi rst collection for Dior is arriv- WWD ing at retail this month, accompanied by fanfare on a global scale. Dior is orchestrating a series of pop-up shops with TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2013 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00 key wholesale partners in the coming weeks, trans- planting the decor and atmosphere of Simons’ ready- to-wear show in Paris last September to retailers in- cluding Joyce in Hong Kong, 10 Corso Como in Milan, Maxfi eld in Los Angeles, Isetan in Tokyo, My Boon in Seoul and I.T. in Beijing. “This is a new New Look,” declared Dior chief ex- ecutive Sidney Toledano, referring to the extravagant, fan-skirted silhouette that catapulted the French house to international fame in 1947 — and to Simons’ critically acclaimed reinterpretation of the founder’s legacy. Green Toledano cited a groundswell of excitement among buyers for Dior’s new artistic director of women’s haute couture, rtw and accessory collections, and a desire to animate Simons’ debut effort’s arrival in stores. “We had a lot of demand, and we didn’t want to be everywhere,” Toledano said in an interview. Spanning window displays, special furnishings, Light photo exhibitions and even a playlist of electronic music by French DJ Michel Gaubert, the installa- With a Forties heroine on her tions — some measuring several hundred square mind, Carolina Herrera sent out feet — are slated to last for up to three weeks. The a collection full of glamour fi rst debuted earlier this month at Jeffrey in lower Manhattan in tandem with New York Fashion Week. and gumption. Shoulders An 11-day residency at Colette kicks off during were defi ned, waists Paris Fashion Week with an in-store cocktail party, were tiny and furs were where Dior is to launch the second issue of its in- house magazine, with model Natalia Vodianova on ultraluxurious, such the cover in a hip-fl ared tuxedo jacket. Dior also as this emerald plans an exhibition of photos by Willy Vanderperre fox jacket over a and watercolor illustrations by Swedish artist Mats Gustafson at the concept store. wool fl annel skirt “We wanted our customers to be introduced to the and leather and new generation of Dior in an exciting and unique suede gloves. SEE PAGE 4 For more on the collections, see pages 12 to 18. Milan’s Export Drive By LUISA ZARGANI MILAN — Exports are turning into the Italian fashion COLLECTIONS industry’s saving grace more and more, as sales out- side Italy are expected to reach the highest level ever in value in 2013. FALL Also of note is the fact that exports are increasing- NEW YORK 2013 ly shifting toward emerging countries and, for the fi rst time, sales outside the European Union will overtake those within that area. In the fi rst nine months of 2012, exports to Brazil, Russia, India and China gained 13.4 percent com- pared with growth of 1.2 percent in the rest of the world. According to Fashion Economic Trends, a study distributed by Italy’s Chamber of Fashion, in 2013 exports are expected to grow 2.2 percent to 44.3 billion euros, or $60 billion at current exchange, while industry revenues are expected to drop 3.5 per- cent to 58.2 billion euros, or $78.5 billion. “This [is] on condition that the new government will immediately put in motion measures to limit fi s- cal pressure,” said the study. If not, sales could show a double-digit drop. Preliminary 2012 industry sales showed a 5.4 percent decrease to 60.3 billion euros, or $81.3 billion. Elections in the country are slated for Feb. 24 and 25, toward the end of Milan Fashion Week, which kicks off on Feb. 20 with Gucci and wraps up on Feb. 25 with the Giorgio Armani show. The elections pres- ent an additional variable for fashion executives fac- ing reduced consumer spending, widespread unem- ployment and a lackluster economy. PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER SEE PAGE 20 2 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2013 WWD.COM BEAUTY BEAT L’Oréal Net Gains 17.6% in 2012 THE BRIEFING BOX (4.7 percent),” according to initial IN TODAY’S WWD By JENNIFER WEIL Jean- perspectives published by Andrew Paul Wood, an analyst at Sanford C. PARIS — L’Oréal registered a Agon Bernstein & Co. “In [fourth-quar- 17.6 percent rise in 2012 net in- ter 2012], L’Oréal saw most regions come and said it is “well-pre- and businesses deliver above ex- pared” to outpace the beauty pectations.…only dermatology and market’s growth this year. luxury were below, the latter being The firm’s net profits reached a bigger worry given that it has 2.87 billion euros, or $3.69 bil- STEPHANE DE BOURGIES PHOTO BY been the major driver of L’Oréal lion, in the 12 months ended Dec. market share, even in the more growth in recent quarters.” 31, it said Monday after the Paris difficult markets of Western In the period by geographic Bourse closed. L’Oréal’s operating Europe and the United States.” zone, sales rose 3.2 percent in income was up 12.3 percent to 3.7 Agon lauded innovation stem- Western Europe, 14.8 percent in billion euros, or $4.75 billion. ming from each of the company’s North America and 11.3 percent Company sales in the period divisions and major business seg- in new markets. In division terms, increased 10.4 percent to 22.46 ments, and he highlighted that revenues gained 5.3 percent for Lauren Remington Platt billion euros, or $22.88 billion. “2012 also marked a milestone professional products, 8.7 per- at Indochine. For more, On a like-for-like basis, revenues in the acceleration of the group’s cent for consumer products, 12.3 see WWD.com. advanced 5.5 percent. internationalization, as the ‘New percent for L’Oréal Luxe and 8.6 LEXIE MORELAND PHOTO BY Dollar figures are calculated Markets’ became the number-one percent for active cosmetics. The at average exchange for the pe- geographic zone. Body Shop’s sales were up 9.8 Raf Simons’ first collection for Dior is arriving at retail this riod to which they refer. “Lastly, the profits and cash percent, while dermatology rev- month, accompanied by fanfare on a global scale. PAGE 1 The full-year operating prof- flow have grown very strongly, enues grew 4.8 percent. its and organic sales were in line reaching record levels and con- L’Oréal said it will propose at Exports are turning into the Italian fashion industry’s saving with UBS’ estimate, according firming the power of our business its next annual general meeting on grace more and more, as sales outside Italy are expected to to analyst Eva Quiroga in a re- model,” he continued. April 26 a new share-buyback plan reach the highest level ever in value in 2013. PAGE 1 search note published Monday. L’Oréal’s fourth-quarter 2012 amounting to 500 million euros, or Jean-Paul Agon, L’Oréal chair- sales grew 9 percent to 5.73 bil- $669.3 million at current exchange, Bobbi Brown, through a licensing agreement with Safilo Group, man and chief executive officer, lion euros, or $7.43 billion. On in the first half of this year. will launch a line of optical frames and sunglasses. PAGE 4 said that 2012 “was a good year a like-for-like basis, the French “We are facing the future with for L’Oréal on many fronts. The beauty giant’s revenues gained optimism and confidence,” stated Eva Mendes has signed a multiyear agreement with New York group achieved strong sales 5.3 percent in the three months. Agon. “The group is thus well- & Company that includes launching a sub-brand bearing her growth and once again demon- The quarterly top-line growth prepared to outperform the mar- name and becoming the retailer’s ambassador. PAGE 4 strated its ability to outperform was “slightly ahead of consensus ket in 2013 and to achieve another the beauty market and to gain (5.1 percent) and our expectations year of sales and profit growth.” Billabong International Ltd. has named Peter Bryant group executive for commercial operations. PAGE 6 Susan Sokol Said Resigning From J.Mendel Post Amazon.com, Apple and QVC have the best mobile commerce introduced several new categories, platforms, according to ForeSee, a firm that analyzes and measures By LISA LOCKWOOD Susan such as handbags, home design and customer satisfaction. PAGE 6 Sokol fashion accessories, and broadened NEW YORK — Susan Sokol is said to its reputation beyond luxurious fur Europe’s economic uncertainty didn’t stop the creativity of the have resigned as president and chief coats. The company began offering a high-end Italian textile firms that presented innovative products operating officer of J.Mendel, a post wider price range and more diversi- at the 16th edition of Milano Unica. PAGE 8 she has held since October 2008. fied collection, showing four times a Sokol declined comment Monday, year instead of twice, and refining its Despite the tough economic climate, the atmosphere was and a spokeswoman for J.Mendel would logo, image and packaging.
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