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Wwdinternationaltrades WWDINTERNATIONALTRADESHOWSSECTION II BOUNCINGThe economy is still the number-one topic in global trade showB circles,ACK as organizers say they’re starting to see their countries’ fortunes turn around. S E G IMA CHAPMAN/GETTY S. GARY BY PHOTO 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MAY 19, 2010 SECTION II INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS Premiere Classe/Who’s Next in January. AITRE M DOMINIQUE BY Outlook Brightens in City of Light PHOTO By Katya Foreman and Joelle Diderich anticipate, the fashion evolution of our exhibitors,” said Scherpe. For its sixth edition, running June 2 to 3, Denim by Première Vision will move PARIS — Salon organizers here cited a sharp uptick in applications for exhibition to a more central Paris location at the Halle Freyssinet, in the city’s 13th ar- space from quality brands and producers for the coming sessions, which they hope rondissement. The event has introduced a Future Denim Designers Award under indicates a parting of clouds. the aegis of denim guru Adriano Goldschmied. Supervised by Rad Rags’ Umberto “It’s another sign that the market is picking up,” said Philippe Pasquet, chief Brochetto, a group of students from London’s Central Saint Martins school will executive officer of Première Vision, which has trimmed the duration of its fall compete for the award. session to three days from four, running Sept. 14 to 16, to better reflect visitors’ Among new kids in town, Designers & Agents, which holds seasonal shows in compressed agendas. Los Angeles and New York, will launch its first Paris edition this fall. Dubbed D&A Pasquet said the aim was to optimize the textile salon’s organization as a com- Paris, it will bring a select crop of American brands. pact one-stop shopping experience. The event is part of the Première Vision Pluriel The salon will be held Oct. 1 to 4 at Gallery Nikki Diana Marquardt in the Marais network of complementary shows, which includes Indigo and Expofil. district. Future editions will expand to include an international group. Following a dismal year, with a 23 percent “For the American designers who have a de- plunge in apparel production in France and simi- finitive style that can translate abroad, Paris lar setbacks for producers across Europe, Pasquet presents a great opportunity… to meet buyers said things were beginning to look up. from around the world,” said Barbara Kramer, “Certain firms have returned to pre-crisis lev- the fair’s co-founder. els of production, which is starting to compensate Participating brands include Calleen Cordero, for their losses,” he said. R13, Michelle Mason, VPL by Victoria Bartlett A spokeswoman for the Premiere Classe and and Lutz & Patmos. “The dollar now has great Who’s Next trade shows also reported that or- value against the euro, so pricing allows for good ganizers were overwhelmed with the level of margins for retailers,” noted co-producer Ed demand from brands. The Paris shows are due Mandelbaum. to run concurrently on Sept. 4 to 7 at Porte de Muriel Piaser, the newly named director of Versailles, with a second session for Premiere the Prêt à Porter Paris, noted, however, that Classe scheduled for the city’s Jardin des many contemporary brands and secondary Tuileries venue Oct. 1 to 4. lines have lost interest in the traditional trade Among new developments, meanwhile, global show format. trade fair organizer Messe Frankfurt is moving Brands like Paul & Joe and Antik Batik have into the realm of ready-to-wear with the recent dropped out of Prêt à Porter’s September show A fashion student acquisition of Paris-based Ethical Fashion Show. in Paris in recent years because most buyers had works on a toile at Messe Frankfurt — which runs 31 textile trade already closed their budgets by that date, forc- Texworld in Paris. shows, including Texworld — said it planned to ing organizers to rethink both the format and the surf on the growing interest in green, fair trade timing of their offer. and sustainable fashion to grow the show in Paris and then expand abroad. Piaser’s proposition is a revamped version of Before by July, the inter-sea- “I had felt for some time that Messe Frankfurt’s portfolio was lacking finished sonal trade show launched last year. The 2010 edition will be held at the former products,” explained Michael Scherpe, president of Messe Frankfurt France. Stock Exchange building in central Paris on July 4 and 5, just before the start of Texworld, which will run Sept. 13 to 16 at Le Bourget, is also upping its fash- couture week. ion quotient following the appointment this year of designers Grégory Lamaud and The highlight of the event is a series of fashion shows branded Paris Fashion Louis Gérin as artistic directors. The fall edition also will feature a first: creations Days, which will showcase spring 2011 designs for buyers and fall 2010 creations for by fashion students using exhibitors’ fabrics. the general public. Visitors will walk away with a look book and a video of the show, Following earlier collaborations with foreign fashion schools in the show’s which they can broadcast in-store. Designers & Fashion section, Messe Frankfurt called on students at France’s “These brands dream of having access to the catwalk, but they are not necessarily ESMOD to design the outfits. “Texworld is going to accompany, and in some cases able to do that,” Piaser said. “So we thought we would create a fashion week for them.” WWD, WEDNESDAY, MAY 19, 2010 3 WWD.COM Italy’s Vision Quest Pitti Immagine By Luisa Zargani The Jil Sander brand will be Pitti Uomo’s spring off May 21 to 23, Vicenzaoro Glamroom and Vicenzaoro guest of honor, while Haider Ackermann will headline Charm will be held May 22 to 26, and Vicenzaoro MILAN — Italian trade show organizers are staying true Pitti W. Ackermann is expected to unveil a special col- Choice is Sept. 10 to 14. to their missions, as they crystallize the benchmark lection conceived for the event. While conceding “there are some positive signals” in and direction of each show — a goal that is emerging Keeping an ear to the ground is key, according to the market, it is “still weak and volatile,” he said, adding as key in uncertain times. Mauro Muzzolon, director of Mipel, which has shifted that a stronger dollar may benefi t Italy’s exports. “Unica has become a reference point. The industry the leather goods expo to a Sunday-through-Wednesday “The markets grow globally and the areas of growth has approved its formula and views the exhibition as slot in the fall (Sept. 19 to 22). Traditionally, the show change constantly,” said Ditri, pointing to a need to useful,” said Pier Luigi Loro Piana, president of textile was held from Thursday to Sunday, but Muzzolon said boost business in Asia and South America. “These are show Milano Unica, running Sept. 8 to 10. Loro Piana said the change will help those “retailers that don’t have a markets that can be conquered only if we move active- Unica successfully overcame “the bleakest moments” of big staff ” attend Mipel. ly and if we build the right partnerships.” At the same the recession, which coincided with the September 2009 “Often leather goods stores in Italy work the most on time, Ditri said the organization should not neglect and February 2010 editions. “We are looking to the future Saturdays and are closed on Sundays and Mondays,” more established regions like the U.S., “because the in a positive way, the economy is changing and business is said Muzzolon. As for visitors from outside Italy, they expectations of customers there are very sophisticated picking up. We have received positive feedback on posi- generally attend Mipel during the week, he added. and require great skill to innovate and create.” tioning, both in terms of schedule and product.” Muzzolon pointed out that Mipel is opening up to new One event likely to be overhauled is AltaRomAltaModa, Raffaello Napoleone, chief executive offi cer of Pitti categories, expanding its custom jewelry offer, for ex- Rome’s couture shows. In April, Silvia Venturini Fendi, ac- Immagine, also stands behind the formats of the shows ample. “This is also a request we’ve received from retail- cessories director for her family’s venerable house, was set up by the Florence-based organization. elected to a three-year term as president of Napoleone said women’s pre-collection AltaRoma, which was founded in 1988. show Pitti W, which runs June 15 to 18 at The Mipel fair. Brimming with projects, Venturini Fendi the same time as men’s fair Pitti Uomo, “is said it was “key” to highlight Rome’s his- growing,” with a “focus on research” and toric couture houses and its local artisanal providing those companies that “don’t have patrimony, while at the same time boosting the necessary structure” with the means to AltaRoma’s talent-scouting objective. “Both present their pre-collections. are important to enhance our heritage and Likewise, the ready-to-wear and ac- to grow new big names for the future,” said cessories shows Pitti organizes in Milan Venturini Fendi, adding that she plans to — Touch, Neozone and Cloudnine — are draw back to Rome historical brands such as increasingly garnering attention for their Capucci, and that she is working on a proj- design scouting, said Napoleone. ect to this end with the founding designer. Massimiliano Bizzi, founder and presi- Venturini Fendi praised Rome’s “net- dent of White, touted this Milan-based show work of artisans” and said she aims to put as a “niche” exhibition — a mission he be- young designers in contact with this web lieves must remain White’s priority.
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