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43 ETHNIC FOODS Features Ethnic cuisine continues to heat up in  Canada, as Korean, Mexican and Middle 18 WHAT’S THE SCOOP? Eastern gain favour By Laura Pratt From froyo to ice cream, local-leaning sus - tainable cool treats are winning favour By Liz Campbell 47 MEAT + VEG From bacon and charcuterie to vegans and flexitarians, meat eaters and vegetarians alike NG 26 A NATION’S PRIDE are winning favour on the plate INI Anita Stewart is the voice of an enduring L D By Liz Campbell UA conversation about Canada’s culinary identi - CAS ty, influencing a new age of national pride in a wealth of local ingredients 51 CASUAL DINING Homestyle comfort food (with a twist) and By Brianne Binelli premium ingredients are driving the casual- 1 food trend By Jackie Sloat-Spencer 5 30 A TANTALIZING TALE Toronto’s iconic Cookbook Store celebrates 67 MOVING FORWARD The future of foodservice shone brightly at 30 years in business by taking a look back 54 CULINARY MAP the 2013 NRA Show By Jackie Sloat-Spencer By Alison Fryer & Jennifer Grange 56 A TIME TO REMEMBER Six Canadian chefs share their favourite food 33 FOOD GLORIOUS FOOD memories Departments By Rosanna Caira 2 FROM THE EDITOR 57 STAR PERFORMERS 3 MASTHEAD 35 SUSTAINABILITY A look at the food-preparation equipment Foodservice operators know sustainability is 5 FYI

S that’s turning heads By Denise Deveau E important, but do they know it’s a commit - 9 FROM THE DESK OF ROBERT CARTER G

A The Pickle M I ment to continuity and not a marketing 11 WE’VE ANALYZED THIS: X

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M campaign? By Mary Luz Mejia 60 STILL BUZZING

Y Coffee takes centre stage as chains continue Emma Cardarelli, B

Y 72 CHEF’S CORNER:

H to battle for customer share Nora Gray, Montreal P A R

G 39 HEALTHY EATING By Christine Lafave Grace, Technomic Inc.

O Nutrition information on restaurant menus T O H

P is the hot-button health issue in foodservice

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V this year. What’s coming next for the O C industry? By Rebecca Harris

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 1 FROM THE EDITOR

For daily news and announcements: @fsworld on and Foodserviceworld on . Twitter Facebook

A SIhaGt fouNr-let terO worFd st arTting HaElso abToutI lMess oEbvioS us things, like with F always sparks conver - employment and people’s health.” sation? If you said food, That message was echoed recently by you’re absolutely right. Never before has author Michael Pollan, during a food been as talked about, as dissected stopover in Toronto to promote his new Wor as analyzed as it is today. Consumers book, Cooked . In an interview with are hungrier than ever for information CBC’s Matt Galloway, the erudite writer on new restaurants, hot chefs and new touched on the subject of burgeoning menu items. And, you can’t get away food activism, when he urged those in from the topic of food no matter where the audience to move away from fac- you live or who you are. Even the Pope tory-produced food and get back to and Prince Charles, the Prince of Wales, their kitchens to prepare food that is weighed in on various aspects of the honest, sourced locally and cooked with food debate recently. wholesome ingredients. First, Pope Francis made headlines The new fascination with food bodes when he stated that “throwing away well for food purveyors in restaurants food is like stealing from the table of the and grocery stores, but with that intense poor and the hungry.” In his weekly interest comes the need for greater address in St. Peter’s Square, the Pontiff responsibility and transparency, both stated, “The culture of waste has made about the provenance of food and its The new fascination us insensitive even to the waste of food production. And, activism is starting at a and disposal of food, which is even more younger age. For example, when a youth “ with food bodes well despicable when all over the world in the audience asked Pollan what advice for food purveyors in unfortunately, many families are suffer - he would give a grade-seven student, restaurants and gro - ing from hunger and malnutrition. other than to learn to cook, the food Once, our grandparents were careful not activist reflected for a moment, and then cery stores, but with to throw away any leftover food.” He responded thoughtfully, urging the stu - that intense interest added: “Consumerism has led us to dent to call upon a food lot and organ - comes the need for become used to excess, and daily waste ize a field trip with his classmates. “If of food, to which, at times, we are no they say, yes,” explained Pollan, “it will greater responsibility longer able to give a just value.” provide you with a great lesson, and if and transparency, both Then, in early June, as reported on they say, no, it will provide you with a about the provenance FoodNavigator.com, while speaking at great lesson,” at which point the audi - the Langenburg Forum 2013 in ence broke into spontaneous applause. of food and its produc - Germany, Prince Charles attacked the Change is coming, and it’s coming faster tion food supply chain. “The aggressive than you think. It’s a reality the foodser - search for cheaper food” needs to be vice industry can no longer afford to ” replaced by more sustainable and locally ignore. driven production, he said. “It may Scan to watch latest appear that things are well. Big global F&H Live! videos corporations may appear to be prosper - ing out of operating on a global mono - cultural scale, but … if you drill down into what is actually happening, things are not so healthy. I am talking about obvious things like the vitality of the soil Rosanna Caira and local ecosystems, the quality and Editor/Publisher availability of fresh water and so on but [email protected]

2 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM PRESIDENT & GROUP PUBLISHER MITCH KOSTUCH [email protected] EDITOR & PUBLISHER ROSANNA CAIRA rcaira@ kostuchmedia.com ART DIRECTOR DAVID HEATH dheath@ kostuchmedia.com CONTRIBUTING DESIGNER MARGARET MOORE ASSOCIATE EDITOR BRIANNE BINELLI bbinelli@ kostuchmedia.com ASSISTANT EDITOR JACKIE SLOAT-SPENCER jsloat-spencer@ kostuchmedia.com WEB COMMUNICATIONS SPECIALIST MAYA TCHERNINA mtchernina@ kostuchmedia.com PRODUCTION MANAGER DEREK RAE drae@ kostuchmedia.com DIRECTOR JIM KOSTUCH jkostuch@ kostuchmedia.com

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MONTHLY NEWS AND UPDATES FOR THE FOODSERVICE INDUSTRY

FTheo Tocronuto-bsas edF Coanardiwan Raesrtadurant Investment Summit highlighted the importance of customer engagement BY BRIANNE BINELLI FYI E N Y E T T A W

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t was a day of networking, industry analysis and conversation recently, as nearly 200 foodservice executives and media gathered at the Hilton Toronto hotel for GE Capital’s Iannual Canadian Restaurant Investment Summit (CRIS). Dan McPhee, account executive for Google, kicked off the conference by explaining how CONNECTING WITH to use his company’s analytics to gain a competitive edge. “[Technology] is changing the way QUEBEC people live their lives,” affirmed McPhee. To help appeal to today’s informed customer, the Quebec was a topic of ongoing exec showed attendees how to use Google Trends to track Google queries and compare discussion at Toronto’s Canadian searches for other brands. “You can see where your competitors are strong, and you can make Restaurant Investment Summit this decisions based on that. It’s simple.” spring. “We view Quebec as one of The theme of change and evolving customer needs permeated the discussion as Robert the most underdeveloped areas in Carter, executive director, Foodservice Canada, for the NPD Group research firm, took to the Canada,” said Robert Carter, stage. The analyst reviewed statistics from the annual GE Capital-commissioned “Canadian Chain Restaurant Industry Review.” Prepared by the NPD, in collaboration with Toronto’s executive director, Foodservice FsStrategy, the study revealed that, although sales are expected to grow by 3.6 per cent to Canada, for the NPD Group research $67.9 billion in 2013, overall foodservice traffic remains relatively flat. “Customers are going firm. And, although many executive out to eat a little less, and that’s creating challenges,” said Carter. “There’s a lot of operators conference panellists warned that a fighting for 0.1 per cent of the market share.” move into the French-speaking, One such contender is the Starbucks Coffee Company, which was highlighted in a Q&A “somewhat foreign” province may call with Starbucks Coffee Canada’s Annie Young-Scrivner. Andrew Bell, a Business News Network anchor, talked to the president about the brand plan to open more than 150 stores for brand re-invention, The Keg across Canada this year, its partnership with Target Canada and the new name of its blonde Steakhouse & Bar’s David Aisenstat roast. True North, which was named by a customer, is set to launch in the summer along with was positive. “It’s a great market,” a line of packaged foods. Meanwhile, the Starbucks promise was the centre of conversation. said the steakhouse’s president and “Our mission is to inspire the human spirit,” said Young-Scrivner, stressing the brand goal to CEO. “[Quebecers] love going out, connect with the customer. And, as that customer continues to evolve, it’s clear enriching the drinking and eating.” in-store experience is essential to the foodservice industry’s success story.

When designing or renovating a restaurant, it’s about maximizing efficiency and generating customer appeal, THE DEVIL IS IN THE DETAILS according to the experts from the design and construction breakout session at the recent Canadian Restaurant Investment Summit in Toronto. “It’s a complex beast to build a restaurant, and if you don’t do it well, it will cost you,” said Robert Downey of Toronto’s BLT Construction Services. “Your CM should give you a paper list and a detailed budget as well as a construction schedule,” stressed Downey. “These tools help [the] client and tell them they know what you need. Don’t worry the client [with] too many details, but the message you give should be clear.” — Rosanna Caira

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 5 FO R M FYI OR EVE E FO NT OD S, V SER ISI VIC T EWO RLD .CO COMING M EVENTS PTheOre’sP a h-oUt nePw t riSo oHf poOp-uPp Canada’s Fruit & Veg Tech X- restaurants on Toronto’s waterfront July 10-11: Change (CFVTX), 1195 Front Rd., St. Williams, that’s giving new meaning to healthy Ont. Tel: (226) 381-0282; email: eating on-the-go. The operators of [email protected]; website: fruitveg.ca. Blue Goose, Sully’s Honest Dogs and Lobster Roll offer snacks that are free We Care Camp Day Visit, Easter from antibiotics, steroids, pesticides JSeualyls 1C6a: mp, Camp Woodeden, London, Ont. Email: [email protected]; website: and animal by-products, sold out of friendsofwecare.org. reclaimed shipping containers that are run on solar power. Blue Goose’s Women’s Foodservice Forum menu offers organic wraps with beef, JAunnlyu a2l 9E-x3e1c: utive Summit, JW Marriott, roasted chicken or baked rainbow trout, with heirloom tomato, creamy apple and fennel Chicago. Tel: (800) 351-0232; email: slaw and chimi churri ($3 each), while Sully’s Honest Dogs offers regional specialties such [email protected]; website: sum - as “The Danforth” hotdog, topped with tzatziki, olive tapenade and feta ($4.95). The mit13.womensfoodserviceforum.com. project also gives fledgling chefs experience in their trade. “This project, for me, is about giving students a first job, in a very fast-paced atmosphere, whereby they will be better Western Foodservice and suited to the growing restaurant industry in Toronto,” says chef David Chrystian, of AHousgp.i t1al8it-y2 E0x: po, Los Angeles Convention Toronto’s Victor Restaurant, who oversees the three concepts. The shops will be open Center, Los Angeles. Tel: (800) 840-5612; email: [email protected]; web - until October. site: westernfoodexpo.com.

Icons & Innovators Breakfast Seerpiets. w26ith: Vikram Vij, Toronto Region Board of Trade, Toronto. Tel: (416) 447-0888 x236; email: [email protected]; website: kostuchmedia.com.

RESTAURANT BFormUerZ ToZp Chef winner Dale MacKay is opening a new restaurant called Ayden Kitchen & Bar in downtown Saskatoon this summer. The menu will feature local meats, including fresh and cured sausage, duck confit and light salads… Mavi Grill WEST-COAST INVASION is a new eco-friendly Turkish concept in Browns Socialhouse is roaring up the West Coast, with four new Richmond Hill, Ont., specializing in the openings in the last two months, including its latest unit in New donair kebab. Dishes include a slow- Mavi Grill Westminster, B.C., as well as units in Nanaimo North, B.C., roasted chicken kebab plate, served with rice and coban salatasi ($12)…Authentic Italian cuisine is at the heart of Cibo Wine Stonebridge, Saskatoon and Village Green in Vernon, B.C. Bar , a new 200-seat concept in Toronto. The menu features fresh pasta and bread “Browns Socialhouse is growing at a rapid pace to keep up with made in-house, homemade ingredients, local produce and fresh spices… Burrito market demand,” said Bruce Fox, COO and VP, Development, Del Rio has opened its second location in Winnipeg, at 775 Corydon Ave., offering Browns Restaurant Group. “At the start — and heart — of every Mexican staples such as carnitas filled with pulled pork, Mexican rice, vegetarian Browns Socialhouse is an entrepreneurial franchisee who wants black beans or refried pinto beans, cheese and salsa ($6.95)… Peter Martin’s has been shuttered after a local developer bought the historic building in which it to build a business hands on and fill a unique niche that bridges resided. The Kitchener, Ont.-based restaurant served new-world cuisine such as the gap between neighbourhood pub and an accessible, casual poached Arctic char with sautéed new potatoes, arugula and orange carrot reduction fine-dining experience.” The premium-casual concept will ($27)... Sbarro , the Melville, N.Y.-based Italian chain, has announced plans to open expand by six more units by 2014 and is expected to land in 20 new locations in Ontario, including units in Scarborough, Toronto and Ottawa. Ontario in two years. Opening a new restaurant? Let us in on the buzz. Send a high-res image, menu and background information about the new establishment to [email protected] .

6 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FYI

WHITE SPOT IN BRIEF , the wholly MTY Tiki Ming Enterprises Inc. owned subsidiary of , TURNS 85 MTY Food Group Inc. In 1928, White Spot founder has acquired for $1.05 million. SushiGo Nat Bailey opened Canada’s MTY Food Group has also acquired most of first drive-in in Vancouver and the assets of , including Extreme Brandz premiered the car-hop con - , and Extreme Pita PurBlendz Mucho cept; today White Spot serves , for $45 million...New liquor laws in Burrito more than 12-million guests Saskatchewan and Manitoba have come into each year and claims to buy effect. For example, now sports stadium more local products than any operators in Saskatchewan are allowed to other full-service restaurant determine the number of drinks to sell to chain in B.C. The company spectators instead of two per purchase, and execs are celebrating 85 years restaurants in Manitoba can now serve alco - in business by offering a special commemorative menu featuring original items such as hol without a meal… has embraced Subway Chicken Pick’ns ($11.99), Meatloaf Dinner ($12.99) and Bumbleberry Pie ($4.99). “For more antioxidant-rich sandwich toppings by many British Columbians, White Spot is a home away from home,” says Warren Erhart, introducing spinach and avocado to its president of the restaurant chain. “As the overwhelming number of guest stories attest, I’m ingredient profile... has Niagara College proud to say we’ve become part of the fabric of the province. Great value and uncompro - been awarded the 2013 Gold Program mising taste in a family friendly setting; that’s the way Nat Bailey wanted it.” Excellence Award by the Association of Canadian Community Colleges (ACCC) for

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 7 FYI

Bruce Scott Fox Ward its Brewmaster and Brewery Operations Management diploma program, which is the OBITUARY Dave Barlow passed away in June, first of its kind in Canada. following a short battle with cancer. He was the former COO of Harvey’s Restaurants and VP, Purchasing for Cara PEOPLE , department head of John Carlo Felicella Operations Limited. Culinary Arts at the foodservice contain - Vancouver Community Dale , will lead Culinary Team Canada at er... College Neal Brothers Graves the in Erfurt, , a Toronto- 2016 IKA Culinary Olympics Foods Inc. Germany… has left his post as SUPPLYisS thIeD neE w commercial sales based distribution com - Matt Blondin Scott Hinckley head chef at Toronto’s director at , based in Orem, Utah. pany, introduced kettle- Momofuku Blendtec ... is the new executive The company has also teamed with San style chips in flavours Daish ō JP Pedhirney chef at Calgary’s Antonio, Texas-based , to introduce a such as Maple Bacon, Muse Restaurant and Lancer ... is the new beverage station for smoothies and frozen Himalayan Pink Salt, Lounge Tallis Baker-Voakes chef at ., a coffee drinks, using refrigerated bag-in-box Sweet & Smoky BBQ as well as Pink Salt and Paintbox Catering & Bistro Inc full-service restaurant-and-catering opera - ingredients... is the new director of Vinegar... Jeff Biel Manitowoc Foodservice Ovens tion located in Toronto’s Regent Park com - Marketing at , based broke ground on its Scotsman Ice Systems and Advanced Cooking munity... announced in Vernon Hills, Ill. The company was also new 30,000-sq.-ft. ovens expansion project Browns Socialhouse three new appointments to its executive recently named soft-pretzel chain in Cleveland, Ohio. It will feature new quali - Auntie team, including , EVP; 2012 Supplier of the Year... ty systems, computerized work instructions, Scott Ward Bruce Anne’s Todd , COO and VP, Development; and is the new VP, Sales and Marketing at lean work-flow systems and state-of-the-art Fox Dale Griffith , director of Real Estate. , based in Menomonee Falls, warehouse operations. G Graves Alto-Shaam Wis... has introduced a new 6.6-lb. Nutella

Combine breathtaking wine country with professional development. Kraft Works is sending TWO lucky winners to Napa Valley, California for 5 days to attend  e Culinary Institute of America’s Worlds of Flavour® International Conference & Festival, November 14-16.

• Roundtrip airfare & transportation to the conference • 4 nights’ stay at Rancho Caymus Inn • Conference fee to this limited-registration 3-day event • Total prize valued at nearly $3,000!

THESE ARE NOT THE OFFICIAL RULES. NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. Contest is open to foodservice professionals who are legal residents of Canada and aged 21 years or older. Contest begins on June 3, 2013 at 9:00am ET and ends August 30, 2013 at 4:00pm ET. To enter, log onto www.kraftfoodservice.ca and follow the onscreen instructions to enter. Prizes/Approximate Retail Value (ARV): Two (2) Grand Prizes, each consisting of a trip to Napa Valley, California, USA to attend the Culinary Institute of America’s Worlds of Flavour® International Conference. Must correctly answer mathematical skill-testing question. Odds of winning a prize depends on the number of eligible entries received. A random draw for both Grand Prizes will be held in Chicago, Illinois at 10:00am on September 3, 2013 from all eligible entries received. For o cial rules and complete contest details please visit www.kraftfoodservice.ca.

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SA looUk atM threMe straEtegRic tre nSds pToiseUd toD shaYpe thNe indOustrTy in E201S 4 he summer months are upon us. The such dramatic consumer behaviours as the consuming. As such, they are seeking more weather is warm, the kids are out of latest gluten-free phenomenon (see story on innovative, bold and exciting menu items and Tschool, and summer vacations are in p. 11). According to NPD’s MenuTrack, the demanding greater choice. According to full swing. For most Canadians, summer is a mentions of gluten-free items increased by 36 NPD’s “Full-Service Dining Report: What time to relax, but, for many in the foodservice per cent on menus across Canada in 2013, Customers Want,” 70 per cent of full-service industry, it’s the beginning of strategic plan - which is an example of how consumers are dining customers are seeking greater menu ning for the upcoming foodservice year. To responding to a greater understanding of the variety. This demand has created an opportu - get a head start, check out three of the NPD effects food has on their bodies. This is forcing nity for today’s savvy restaurateurs to pro - Group’s five strategic trends predicted to today’s restaurateurs to provide greater trans - mote menu innovation as a strategic shape the restaurant industry in 2014. parency on menu ingredients, create healthy approach to increase guest counts. Focusing menu items as well as offer insight on the ori - on limited-time offers as a tactical approach gins of foods on their menus. Armed with helps establish a competitive point of differ - THE EDUCATED CONSUMER Once they have become connected, the increasing awareness and food knowledge, ence, resulting in more customers while cater - Internet is one of the last things consumers today’s educated consumer will have the ing to the desire for menu innovation. During are willing to give up. Connectivity is king, greatest impact on the restaurant industry in 2014, menu innovation will be a core focus for and the dramatic rise of smartphone use 2014 and beyond. restaurateurs and, as a result, limited-time ensures we are connected at all times. This offers will become a key strategy used more constant connectivity has provided today’s aggressively throughout 2014. MENU INNOVATION DRIVEN BY consumers with a wealth of knowledge and an LIMITED-TIME OFFERS incredible desire to learn. The desire to learn In a foodservice marketplace that is struggling PRICE OPTIMIZATION has created an educated consumer who is to increase guest counts, every opportunity Is it time to review your pricing strategy? It is changing the way today’s companies — should be considered. Menu innovation is a well-known fact that once they’ve decided including restaurants — do business. Such a one such area of opportunity. Today’s educat - on a restaurant, Canadian consumers are less consumer is responsible for numerous trends ed restaurant customer is exposed to and motivated by price than they are by food qual - over the past few years and may be behind understands more about the foods they are ity and/or menu innovation. According to NPD’s Guest Count Driver analysis, which uncovers the top attributes that increase guest counts at restaurants, menu pricing rarely emerges as a primary factor. Therefore, TOP MENU ITEM HEALTH CLAIMS (average occurrences per menu) restaurateurs who discount and deal to drive guest counts may be leaving money on the table. Although, price can attract customers, it I 2010 4.8 Increase of needs to be considered more strategically. I 2011 36% in 2013 Instead of focusing on price, consider the 3.5 over 2011 I 2013 greater impact of value. Today’s restaurant

2.8 consumer has a clear idea of what value means to them, and it’s not just price. 1.1 1.3 1.3 According to findings from NPD’s Guest 0.7 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.7 0.5 0.5 0.3 0.5 0.5 0.3 0.4 0.1 0.3 0.2 Count Driver analysis, the top three attributes GLUTEN- LOW CAL WHOLE HEALTHIER LOW FAT LOW SODIUM TRANS FAT- FREE WHEAT OPTION FREE of value are: quality, good taste and conven - ience. Focusing on the entire value equation provides an opportunity for savvy restaura - teurs to increase average eater checks and increase revenue in a market struggling with increasing guest counts. G

Robert Carter is executive director, Foodservice Canada, with the NPD Group Inc. He can be reached at [email protected] for questions regarding the latest trends and their impact on the foodservice business.

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 9 We’ve been cracked, crushed, bitten, dunked and drowned... yet we still manage to come out on top. With its distinctive brand recognition, your customers value the consistency and quality that comes from Premium Plus crackers—it’s why we’re the #1 soda cracker in Canada!

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WE’VE ANALYZED THIS

ickle Barrel has been a brand’s healthy-eating innova - fixture on Toronto’s tions and its newer Glow Fresh restaurant scene for Grill concept. Pmore than 40 years. And, some seven years F&H : What influenced your ago, a vision to offer diners decision to be become an healthier food options became a early advocate of healthful reality with the help of Rose menu items? Reisman, a nutritional consult - Peter Higley: Our philosophy ant, celebrity cookbook author has always been about providing and caterer, who is the name a comfortable, fun atmosphere behind the city’s Glow Fresh with quick, efficient and friendly Grill and Glowpress at Dine on service, fantastic food and unbe - 3 Yorkdale. Reisman’s philoso - lievable value. Beginning in phy of leading a healthy, bal - 1971, we were about comfort anced lifestyle is evident on and fun foods for people eating Pickle Barrel’s menu. In fact, her out. But, about seven years ago, celebrity and nutritional expert - we started to see changes in ise guided the development and what our customers were enhanced the popularity of requesting. It’s very important LEADING Pickle Barrel’s limited-time pro - for us to be on trend, so we Pickle Barrel’s long-time focus on healthy motional gluten-free menu. launched our Pickle Barrel ‘Art- TeatinHg isE evo lvCing Hwith Aits liRmiteGd-timE e Recently, F&H caught up of-Living-Well’ menu with all gluten-free menu with the face behind the scenes, items [containing] about 500 Peter Higley, president of Pickle calories each. It was more popu - Barrel. The leader discussed the lar with our female customers at

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 11 “Packed from Fresh Tomatoes, G Not from Concentrate”...

President Tom Cortopassi (kneeling) and “Coach” Dino Cortopassi (standing) in one of our tomato fields in Stanislaus County, California

Since 1942, our Restaurateur customers’ success Whether your restaurant has a long family history, has depended on the superior taste of the food they or whether you’re the founder, you can depend on our serve and of our products. family making the best “Real Italian” tomato As a family-owned business, it feels good knowing products...always Packed From Fresh Tomatoes, that so many of our customers have relied on our Never From Concentrate...generation after generation! “Packed From Fresh Tomato” products from generation to generation. Tom Cortopassi Dino Cortopassi 95354 Toll Free 1-800-327-7201 President/Owner Coach/Owner

      Generation after Generation.

tomato fields in Stanislaus County, California

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STANISLAUS The “Real Italian” Tomato Company Pack ed Fro E Fres m RAT T h Tom NT 1202 “D” Street Modesto, CA 95354 Toll Free 1-800-327-7201 M COaNtoCeEs! ©2006 Stanislaus Food Products FRO NOT

      WE’VE ANALYZED THIS

Menu selections with wide variations in sodium content Pickle Barrel Nutrition Breakdown -

Serving Calories Fat Carbohydrate Protein Sodium Size (g) (g) (g) (g) (mg)

Classics and Favourites - Deli Sliders ** 333 710 27 63 41 3,050

Art-of-Living Menu - Sundried Tomato Burger 427 670 26 66 45 750

Burgers - Greek Feta-Cheese Burger 371 700 44 28 43 460 - Canadian Cheddar Cheese 425 790 37 33 74 1,760 Burger

** Denotes menu items with more the 2,000 mg of sodium

Nutrient Analysis by Roxanne Williams using EHSA Nutritient Database and Genesis Software from recipes provided by Pickle Barrel first, but that started to change. corn-based pasta, quinoa and choices and gluten-free menu F&H : When it comes to Pickle Barrel was one of the first pulled pork on a bed of mashed selections. healthy food options, are to offer a burger without a bun. potatoes. There are no gluten- there any areas where Rose Reisman’s signature Sun containing grains [such as wheat F&H : So, how have you Pickle Barrel and/or Glow Dried Tomato burger [without a — including kamut and spelt — achieved success with fall short? bun] is featured on our ‘Art-of- barley, rye and triticale or even PH: We know the sodium con - healthy menu items? Living-Well’ menu [which has] oats, which may contain gluten PH: Staff training is key. Our tent is high in our corn beef and calories identified on the menu. through cross-contamination staff is trained to know about Montreal smoked meat; it’s just Our Greek Feta Burger on our with menu items]. the better quality ingredients we the reality of those products — regular burger menu is also are using. [What’s more,] we they remain very popular. About identified as a Rose Reisman sig - make our food from scratch on 65 per cent of the menu items at F&H : Has Pickle Barrel’s nature item, implying a healthi - the premises, we shop at The Glow are truly healthy choices. “Art of Living Well” or er choice; it’s also served with - Toronto Food Terminal two to We have really healthy selections “Gloriously Gluten-free” out a bun. three times per week, and we available and promote them menu led to increased have great food photography on using Rose Reisman’s celebrity. sales? PH: It has been more about the menu. The fresh, healthy We don’t need to promote the F&H : How do you promote doing the right thing — offering items look terrific. We use our smoked-meat sandwiches [at healthier items to your a choice. We have a kids’ menu menus as a means of communi - either restaurant]. People choose Pickle Barrel customers? PH: At first, healthier items were that features fresh fruit, because cating with our customers, not what they want to eat. When denoted on the menu. People parents wanted to ensure better only about the menu items, but they are eating out they want took to it. More recently, with choices for their children when we provide them with informa - choice, and we provide that Rose Reisman’s help, we have eating out. Fruit is, of course, tion to help them understand choice. developed a complete gluten- more expensive, especially on a why we are offering the foods free menu. She worked with great value kids menu. We also we [offer]. Our relationship with F&H : What are your future Pickle Barrel’s chef to perfect continuously tweak our ingredi - Rose Reisman has been invalu - plans for the company with gluten-free menu items that are ents to use only omega-3 eggs able to not only offering healthi - regard to healthy eating? delicious and suitable for any - and zero trans fat. These are er choices but understanding PH: Our philosophy of fantastic one, whether they have a gluten things we must do to provide how to develop recipes that are food and unbelievable value is sensitivity or intolerance. Her the choices our customers are healthy and taste fantastic. Her not going to change. We will approach is to [offer] food looking for. It’s simply a must to philosophy of eating well and continue to watch food trends everyone at the table can eat. sustain your business — to have living well resonates with our and be on trend. Healthy eating The gluten-free menu features a the choices customer want, and customers and staff. is on trend. lot of fresh foods and innovative listen to their requests. More gluten-free carbohydrates like and more they want healthier

14 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM It’s always good business to serve your customers what they want.

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DentsuBos

T H3C 2M7 T F

? 2013

M WE’VE ANALYZED THIS

ers to the hidden calories, sodi - Barrel provides some caloric should reassess the original THE ANALYSIS Pickle Barrel’s gluten-free menu um and fat in the side dishes information on its menu, it only recipes to see where salt can be wins points for its fresh ingredi - and sauces. lists lower calorie choices. What’s cut. Consumers only have to ents and tasty combinations. Pickle Barrel is making more, Pickle Barrel lists nutri - look to Pillers and Maple Leaf The regular menu itself is espe - inroads to promote healthier tion information for all its menu deli meats to see that it’s possi - cially helpful, because each food eating, and foodservice opera - items online, but since the infor - ble to significantly lower salt category includes information tors should take note of the mation is not shown on the content in the brine and still about how to ensure side dishes chain’s decision to use a celebri - menu, it’s not likely to be seen preserve the great taste. G and sauces are served gluten- ty nutritionist as consumers by most diners. free. For example, the Pan- often take advice from profes - Salt is another concern at Every other month the “We’ve Seared Atlantic Salmon is sionals they know and trust. Pickle Barrel. On the chain’s Analyzed This” column offers accompanied by the following website, items that have 3,000 insight into healthy menu initia - notes: “Please request no sauce mg or more of the mineral are tives at various restaurants. It’s NExT STEPS or seasoning on the salmon” and In April, a report by Toronto flagged, but this is an excessive written by registered dietitians “request to change the accompa - Public Health advocated devel - amount of sodium and requires from the Oakville, Ont.-based niment of potatoes and vegeta - oping legislation to require attention ( see chart on p. 14 ). Food Systems Consulting Inc., a bles to a simple julienne veg - restaurant chains to include The restaurant’s smoked meats Canada-wide consulting group etable stir fry with oil and gar - caloric and sodium counts on are prepared with salt brines specializing in healthy eating lic.” Most customers who have a their menus, since studies show and are noticeably high in sodi - away from home. For more infor - gluten intolerance will be aware diners underestimate the calo - um as are the pickles served. So, mation, visit foodsystems.com. of these cautions, but notes ries and sodium in their restau - since Pickle Barrel staff makes directly on the menu alert din - rant meals. And, while Pickle its deli meats, management

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FLoRcOaZl EinNg rFedUiNen: ts and unique ice-cream flavours and froyo are winning fans at Vancouver’s Earnest Ice Cream ( top left, above ) Menchie’s (right, below ) and Ontario’s Slickers (left )

18 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 FOOD FILE

WHAT’S TSHE From froyo to ice cream, local-leaning, Csustainable cool treats are winning favour OBY LIZ CAMPBELL O P? Pavlov’s dogs have nothing on the salivation with which most Canadians greet the tune of an ice-cream truck. We love frozen treats. But pre-packaged Fudgsicles have given way to scoops from a growing number of neighbourhood ice-cream or frozen-yogurt shops. And, the key word is often local.

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 19 FOOD FILE

YMEoHnt rFeOalR’s YeOhG YUoRgTu:r t bosses are planning to double their 15 units by the end of next year

THE POWER OF FROYO Aaron Serruya, president and CEO of Markham-based Yogurty’s Yogurt Inc. and Yogen Früz, notes the pitfalls and agrees. As Canadians look to be reassured about what’s in the food they consume, they want to feel “Our summer months are incredibly busy, good about their indulgences, too. Often sourced with local ingredients, many of these treats but he’s on mark for winter.” Serruya’s team offer a degree of virtue. is already researching additions to its two Indeed, making such snacks appear less about indulgence and more about health is cata - successful concepts, including Belgian waf - pulting a range of low-fat, live-culture frozen yogurts (a.k.a. froyo) into retail nirvana. Last fles, a breakfast offering of fresh yogurt year, according to NPD Group Canada, out-of-home ice-cream sales declined by three per with fruit and veggies (picture tomatoes, cent, but Canadians still enjoyed 181-million servings. By contrast, out-of-home sales of froyo cucumber and balsamic vinegar on Greek numbered 10-million servings, an increase of 24 per cent over the previous 12 months. yogurt), and cakes and novelties, all This rapid expansion appears to augur well for the category. But, there is a caveat. “It’s part - designed to expand the market through dif - ly a reflection of increased units opening in the past year,” says Robert Carter, executive direc - ferent dayparts and seasons. tor, Foodservice, for NPD Group Canada. “I don’t believe you can sustain a chain concept on Marvin Gurman, who with his twin, Jon, one specific menu item. With so much competition, they have to expand the menu, or they’re developed Yeh Yogurt from a Montreal going to be in trouble.” froyo shop, agrees the market is getting sat - urated, but he’s not worried. He anticipates the chain’s 15 locations in Eastern Canada, Ontario and Quebec will double by the end INGREDIENT OF THE MONTH: GINGER Ginger, from the root of the ginger plant, is mentioned in the writ - of next year. From the outset, Yeh included ing of Confucius and in the Koran, where it’s referred to as a spiri - smoothies, waffles, crêpes and even coffee, tual and a heavenly herb. In the Middle Ages, it was thought to but the brothers believe froyo will continue prevent the plague. But its stomach-soothing properties and to be the main draw. “This is one of the strong flavour profile make it a great addition to rich ice cream. fastest-growing sectors in food today,” says Such a dessert not only tastes good but aids digestion. Powdered Gurman. “The small players are falling, but ginger doesn’t cut it, but fresh, firm roots add real zing to many the big companies will stand.” different dishes. Paired with tart flavours such as rhubarb or And, the winners in the industry are lemon, you’ll find this flavour on the menu at many artisan ice- cream shops. It also makes a snappy contrast to sweet desserts. playing into the healthful properties of the At Vancouver’s L’Abbatoir, sticky toffee pudding is topped with gin - frozen delight. “The health trend is one of ger and honey ice cream ($10) and at Toronto’s CN Tower, pineap - the important features that’s helping to ple tart tatin is served with butternut squash and ginger ice cream propel the frozen yogurt industry,” says on a prix-fixe menu. Michael Shneer, master franchisor of

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want it to taste like yogurt so they can feel that they’re eating better,” laughs Yogurty’s Serruya. But, there appears to be no limit to the zany flavours being developed. Menchie’s just introduced three cereal flavours: fruity cereal, peanut-butter puffs and cinnamon sugar. The chain also wins for zaniest combo: maple bacon doughnut. Though Yogurty’s might top that; they’re develop - ing a kosher bacon flavour.

WE ALL SCREAM FOR ICE CREAM Ice cream, too, is breaking the rules when it comes to flavours. Where is it written that frozen desserts have to be sweet? Heston Blumenthal’s signature bacon-and-egg or mustard ice cream is no longer considered unusual. And, in Canada, chefs are chang - ing the dessert menu landscape with some unique flavour profiles. Vancouver’s Meat and Bread lives up to its name with a maple bacon ice-cream sandwich ($3). In Toronto, Canoe serves birch tart with caramelized pears and parsnip ice cream ($12), while Café Boulud offers a caramelized Gala apple with lemon chiboust, and Breton honey and olive ice cream ($11) . In St. John’s, N.L., chef Michelle LeBlanc of Chinched Bistro TFhUeN C FaOlifOoDrn:i a-based Menchie’s concept offers a fun in-store experience

Menchie’s, a California-based company with more than 230 locations worldwide, including 45 in Canada. “Yogurt is low fat, it’s good for you, and it’s delicious,” says Shneer. Menchie’s has low-carb and sugar-free flavours. And, Spoon Me!, with three locations in Winnipeg, promotes its 250 flavours as having 85 to 130 calories. In fact, most chains aim for reasonable calorie counts. While froyo has been around for decades, the new twist is self-serve, pay-by-the-ounce, with a host of toppings — healthy ingredients with decadence available for those who want to indulge. But, the popularity of froyo reflects more than yummy snacking. “We’re not in the frozen- WE’RE NOT IN THE yogurt business, we’re in the entertainment business,” says Shneer, echoing a precept of FROZEN-YOGURT Baskin-Robbins founder, Irv Robbins, “We sell fun, not ice cream.” BUSINESS, WE’RE IN Consequently, most locations sport more primary colours than a preschooler’s crayon box. THE ENTERTAINMENT And, what’s more fun than adding your own Smarties, gummy worms or candy? The guilty BUSINESS. can add a sprinkle of healthy açai, cranberries or granola. But, the hottest new toppings hail — MICHAEL SHNEER, from the Far East. They are mochi, tiny balls of glutinous rice or popping boba, small tapioca MASTER FRANCHISOR, beads filled with various juices. MENCHIE’S Want to know what flavours are trending in foodservice? Just visit a froyo shop. Most offer a bewildering palette of tastes. The hottest new flavour is Greek yogurt, and everyone has a ver - sion of it. Cake and cookie flavours appeal to the young, and fruits in season appeal to everyone. “ In areas with high Asian populations, green tea and taro are hot sellers. Curiously, tart — the flavour that most closely approximates natural yogurt — has a huge following. “I think [fans] 22 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 FOODSE”RVICEWORLD.COM A customized banking plan for your franchise business.

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partners a blueberry tartlet with sour cream ice cream and candied lemon ($9). She also scoops flavours such as sunchoke and lemon zest, juniper and coconut or beet sherbet ($9). In the truly unique category, chef David “OUR CUSTOMERS ARE FOLKS WHO VALUE THE Chrystian’s foie gras ice-cream sandwich IMPORTANCE OF served between two oatmeal raisin cookies BUYING LOCALLY.” “True Chefs want to create their has earned many blog mentions for Toronto’s — BEN ERNST, underlying cooking profiles Victor Restaurant. OWNER, EARNEST ICE CREAM without relying solely on This passion for interesting flavours has circuit boards and probes.” turned small, seasonally operated ice-cream shops into meccas for ice-cream junkies – Rupert Boreland, Executive Chef, CCC looking for unusual tastes, such as hot chilies paired with cinnamon and chocolate at “ McKay’s in Cochrane, Alta., or green raisin- laced curry cashew ice cream at Dee Dee’s in Peggy’s Cove, N.S. NPD’s Carter isn’t sur - BRAINS prised. “Ethnic spices and exotic fruits are growing, so anything with stronger flavour profiles is in,” he says. Beyond flavour, customers want to feel good about what they eat and many inde - BRAUN pendent shops are answering that call. Dee Dee’s uses local or Fair Trade ingredients, ” High-efficiency, boiler-free organically grown when possible. And Earnest GBS CombiStar ovens: Ice Cream’s name says it all. The Vancouver company not only sells scoops from a bicycle control, choice, creativity cart, but the ice cream is hand-packed into refillable glass jars. “We wanted to highlight the ingredients of B.C. and make it sustain - ably,” says Ben Ernst, owner. “Our customers are folks who value the importance of buying locally.” The most popular flavours are “what - ever’s in season,” salted caramel and whisky hazelnut made with real whisky and nuts the Earnest team roasts in-house. “It’s the prep work beforehand that’s cru - cial,” says Peter Pesic, co-owner with Anne

IWn aH 2A00T6’ sStu dYyO titlUedR “I cFeA CVreOamU HRedITonEic sF aLndA PVeOrsoUnaRlit?y,” Dr. Alan R. Hirsch, M.D., F.A.C.P. of the Smell & Taste Treatment and Research Foundation in Chicago, correlated flavour preference and personality traits. Some 700 volunteers, between 24 and 59, underwent psychological testing. Based on this and their ice-cream flavour choices, he developed a correlation, which he § describes as “a kind of Rorschach test,” adding, “I’ve seen a trial attorney use CombiStar ovens put you in control. it to evaluate jurors.” Here’s an abbreviated version of his findings: Lively, dramatic, seductive and flirtatious, coffee ice-cream lovers Coffee: Everything Chef needs. approach life with gusto, enjoying every minute. Charming and engaging in social situations, in business PERIOD. Rocky road: rocky-road fans are aggressive and goal-directed. Thoughtful, logical, intuitively oriented, Strawberry aficionados Call for a dealer nearest you. Strawberry: Call for a dealer nearest you: carefully weigh all options before making decisions. Colourful, dramatic risk takers, fans of vanilla ice cream rely more on Vanilla: (888)-402-1242 intuition than logic. www.gbscooks.com FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM Kitzler, of Slickers, a popular stop for locals and visitors to Bloomfield, Ont. The Slicker’s team creates small batches of ice cream with extraordinary flavours such as rhubarb and ginger (local rhubarb and house-made candied ginger) and campfire (complete with burnt marshmallows). Apple pies and butter tarts to crumble into the eponymous flavours are baked in-house, too. “Our appeal is that we achieve the taste cleanly — we don’t use artificial flavourings.” But the Canadian winter presents a challenge for artisan ice-cream producers. “We’re very weather dependent,” acknowledges Ditta Kasdan, owner of Dee Dee’s. Its hand-packed, small-batch products are often sold in specialty grocers or served in local cafés. And, Kasdan is opening a café in Halifax. The large chains face the same challenge. At U.S.-based Baskin- Robbins’ 105 Canadian outlets, sales of its famous ice-cream cakes offset the drop in winter cone revenues. Cold Stone Creamery co- brands many of its 149 locations with Tim Hortons to tempt cus - tomers into eating a healthy lunch followed by a slightly more deca - dent dessert. And, at most of Burlington, Ont.-based Dairy Queen’s 650 outlets, Grill & Chill offers a food menu alongside its classic soft-serve. All three have also introduced smoothies and lower fat options, but that’s not necessarily what consumers want. “Our customers have told us clearly they regard a visit to DQ as an indulgence,” says Denise Hutton, VP, Marketing, Dairy Queen Canada. “They love our Blizzards and don’t want to count calories.” Indeed, at Baskin-Robbins, pralines and cream and Jamoca Almond Fudge remain top sellers. “We haven’t seen health concerns really affect sales,” says Bill Mitchell, president, Baskin-Robbins, U.S. and Canada. “Actually, Canadians prefer the indulgent flavours.” However, the recent trend toward small desserts has prompted ice- cream chains and chefs, such as Toronto’s Brandon Olsen of The Black Hoof, to introduce small ice-cream bars ($5). And, Toronto’s La Carnita serves the Latin version ($3.50) called paletas. At The Wooden Monkey in Halifax, Dee Dee’s maple walnut ice cream is sandwiched between two house-made ginger cookies ($6.50). It’s a trend Sandra Sturgess, director, Brand Development, Cold Stone Creamery, says they’ve noted. “The introduction of the pre - mium quality ice-cream bars actually grew the ice-cream category.” So, they recently introduced their Oh So Dreamy ice-cream bar, which has proven popular with on-the-go Timmy’s customers. In fact, small means big revenues for Mini Melts. You’ll find them in Cineplex theatres in most provinces and in major amusement parks. Ice-cream kernels come in cool flavours such as Oreo Cookies and Cream, Banana Split and Moose Tracks. Customers get them by the scoop ($3.75 to $4.75 for a typical five-ounce cup), and it’s easy to mix and match flavours. Ketu Patel, co-owner of Calgary-based Mini Melts Canada, says the company isn’t stopping there. Expect to see a new product just developed in Korea — bite sized balls of sorbet. Whether it’s giant scoops or mini servings, ice cream continues to enchant customers. According to Technomic, a Chicago-based research firm, 2013 stats show 29 per cent of customers chose ice cream for dessert in family restaurants, and 15 per cent chose it in upscale spots. As of 2012, more than 40 per cent chose ice cream for après dinner snacking. And, that’s the scoop. G

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM PROFILE

A NATION’S PRIDE

Anita Stewart is the voice of an enduring conversation about Canada’s culinary identity, influencing a new age of national pride in a wealth of local ingredients

BY BRIANNE BINELLI

nita Stewart asked, and Canadians sighed a collec - tive “count us in.” The World’s Longest Barbeque was set to get underway at 6 p.m. on the August long weekend of 2003, and Elora, Ont.’s culinary sweetheart was continuing her crusade to promote A Canadian nosh. At the time, the financial repercussions of mad cow disease (BSE) were ravaging the Canadian agriculture industry, and Stewart launched the bar - becue in response to the sanction on Canadian beef exports levied by our trading partners. The cattle industry was almost completely shut down, and millions were being lost each day, but the event was a vote of confidence for our farmers. Since then, the barbecue — which was celebrated from Beijing to Victoria — has evolved into Food Day Canada, a party in support of our nation’s table. But, this labour of love has been a long time coming. Rewind to 1974. At the time, Stewart was a busy mother of four boys, who unwittingly opened a new chapter in her life when she worked with local par - ents to compile a cookbook of recipes, named The Juice and Cookies Cookbook ; the project was launched to raise money for a cooperative pre-school. “We cut everything by hand, every page [with] paper cutters, and then we bound it with a cerlox plastic binding, sold them for $5 and then opened our nursery school,” recalls the culinary activist, noting one of her earlier crusades that funded the Elora Co-operative Pre-school, a successful institution, which remains today. But, it wasn’t until 1984 that Stewart “backed into” work as a magazine journalist, after co-authoring The Farmers’ Market Cookbook with Jo Marie Powers. “I didn’t realize that I was supposed to write articles and become a personage in the food industry before I wrote a book,” she admits with a

PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRISTOPHER DEW

26 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 27 PROFILE

Canada, which chose her to co-host two Today, there is a dramatic shift in the per - media breakfasts — one at the 2010 ception of Canadian food, so it makes sense Olympics in Vancouver and the other at the that the cheerleader of our national field was 2010 Calgary Stampede. And, in the next handpicked to become the inaugural Food couple of years, her work began to saturate Laureate at the University of Guelph, a natural the country’s consciousness in earnest. She progression after Stewart’s years of work at the was named the year’s Food Ambassador for institution. “Anita’s commitment to Canadian the Ontario Farm Fresh Marketing cuisine is unparalleled, and through her work § A BEACON Association, presented with a Doctor of Laws with the University of Guelph, we hope that (Honouris Causa) from the University of we will be providing support to help her take FOorF y eCarsH, AAniNta GSteE wart has been Guelph and appointed to the Order of it to another level,” says Julia Christensen exploring Canada’s landscape of Canada for her contributions as a journalist, Hughes, dean, College of Management and ingredients. One of her fondest memories was traversing B.C.’s author and culinary activist and for her pro - Economics, University of Guelph. lighthouses — where food is only motion of food in Canada. The two-year appointment puts the per - delivered intermittently and workers Such accolades are numerous and sonality at the forefront of events and univer - largely live off the land — while con - applauded by Stewart’s peers who under - sity initiatives; she’s taken part in a Q&A at ducting research for The Lighthouse stand the depth of her commitment to the Toronto’s Food on Film series and given chefs Cookbook . “I remember being on cause. “One of the things that’s amazing from across the country tours of the universi - Egg Island and the lighthouse keep - about Anita is she’s done this on her own,” ty, among other contributions. “Since Anita er and his wife were both there, says Dr. Rob McLaughlin, PhD, the former has come on board, we’ve started declaring and, she said, ‘he makes wine out dean of Agriculture at the University of the university to be Canada’s food university of everything that doesn’t move.’ I Guelph and former chair of Guelph Food in a much more pronounced way,” affirms think she was right,” says Stewart, Canada, who’s now retired. He initially Christensen Hughes. “Anita’s work has helped fondly recalling the memory of blackberry wine. worked with the writer during the launch of reinforce that message. And, work she’s doing Northern Bounty, approximately 20 years is helping the university to bring an increased ago. “She’s fundamentally doing this because focus on Canadian food and local food.” laugh. “It was the time in which Canada was she truly believes this is the thing to do, and But, that doesn’t mean Stewart offers a one- stretching and growing up and looking she cobbles it together, and she makes it sided approach to her food mandate. “If around and going ‘Hey, you know what? We work. And, quite frankly, it’s amazing how there’s anything that I do as a food laureate or have a cuisine.’” And, Stewart was preparing she doesn’t lose her energy or her enthusiasm a gastronomer it’s really trying to bring bal - to promote that heritage after being pegged and start to get frustrated, because not every - ance to a conversation, so that as many sides as to write a Farmers’ Market supplement with body immediately sees what she’s about and possible can be seen so we can make reason - Powers for Canadian Living magazine. lines up to help or to pay for it.” able judgements of where we’re going,” Afterward, the rising star began to sniff out Stewart admits her plight’s been she says. local ingredients — and her modus operandi tough, and as a single parent who But, just because we’re embark - was born. It was a precursor to her eventual put herself through graduate DID YOU KNOW? ing on a new era in food, that mission statement, which stipulated her plan school on a line of credit in her Three of doesn’t mean the speaker, broad - Anita Stewart’s “to actively promote the growth and study of 50s, you know she’s committed. caster, journalist, food advocate four sons our distinctly Canadian food culture.” “It’s very difficult. You talk are chefs. and author of 14 books, is ready Along the way, Stewart continued to write, about Canadian cuisine, and peo - to slow down. At press time, she churning out cookbooks and magazine arti - ple look at you with these blank was madly preparing for Food Day cles, before founding a pivotal conference stares, and then you have to start explaining, Canada. The August gathering has evolved named Northern Bounty in 1993. “It was the again and again and again,” she says, recalling from backyard celebrations of Canadian food first time Canadians had gathered to celebrate how the Northern Bounty days were forma - to an event that is uniting restaurants and the and discuss our national food traditions, tive moments in an industry, which has public in a common goal to celebrate the ingredients and reality,” she recalls. A year changed dramatically since she began her nation’s table. “Anita has this charming habit later Cuisine Canada was born as an alliance work. “In the days when I started to write, the of shaming everyone into saying, ‘This is of culinary professionals who crossed career further away [an ingredient] was, the more Canadian,’ we should be proud of it,” notes boundaries and spanned the nation. The first exotic it was considered to be — and sexier. McLaughlin. And, it’s a sure bet she can count of its kind, it helped propel the regional food And, if it were from close to home it was on the country’s foodies to celebrate our dis - movement forward and had a profound commonplace and of little value. And, things tinctly Canadian ingredients as we gather at impact on Canada’s culinary fabric. have changed dramatically; it’s completely tables and barbecues across the country Moving forward, Stewart worked for reversed now. The closer to home it is, and Saturday, Aug. 3, and raise a bottle of micro- everyone from the University of Guelph to the more stories you can tell about a particu - brew to the true north, strong and free. G the CBC and Agriculture and Agri-Food lar peach … the more valuable it is.”

28 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM Sweet success

Sticky Spicy Sweets and Wings

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30 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM RETROSPECTIVE A Tant alizing Tale Toronto’s iconic Cookbook Store celebrates 30 years in business by taking a look back There were those who said it would never last three years, let alone three decades. But, in hindsight, it’s now apparent April 4, 1983, was the best time The Cookbook Store could have opened.

Just a year before opening in Toronto, in the autumn of 1982, the publication of several books changed the world of cookbooks and cooking forever. At the top of the scale, Glorious Food and Martha Stewart’s Entertaining ushered in the era of the “cof - fee-table” book. Although the recipes within it were not necessarily complicated, the heavy paper and masses of gorgeous colour photographs gave the average reader access to a world of wealth. Soho Charcuterie and The Silver Palate Cookbook , based on a New York restaurant and Upper West Side food, respectively, were not as elegant but equally as influential. The latter, from Workman Publishing, with its colourful CELEBRATION : Alison Fryer has sidebars, became the blueprint for cookbooks for years to come while its recipe for been managing Toronto’s Cookbook Chicken Marbella still graces buffet tables 30 years later. Collectively, these cook - Store for 30 years books convinced home cooks they could be their own caterers. Stepping back, in the ’70s, haute-cuisine restaurants embraced French cooking. Then dubbed nouvelle cuisine , chefs dropped the heavy cream sauces and let the essence of the main ingredient shine. Likewise, plate presentation was pared down to enhance rather than mask the look of a dish. But, as a new decade dawned, some cooks faltered. In less practiced hands, nouvelle cuisine devolved into a practice where a chef threw a strawberry and a slice of kiwi on whatever was being served — fish, roast beef, lamb — and called it a masterpiece. Looking back, the seemingly lackadaisical cooking makes sense. At the time, there was a disconnect between the books that chefs were using and the dishes they wanted

BY ALISON FRYER AND JENNIFER GRANGE • PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARGARET MULLIGAN FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 31 RETROSPECTIVE

new generation of meat enthusiasts, encour - aging chefs to use the whole beast. All of this reduces kitchen waste, creating a more effi - cient, sustainable and profitable kitchen. Echoes of past trends continue to rever - berate. Flip through the recent Sat Bains’ Too Many Chiefs Only One Indian to see how the great play between texture and colour in the best of nouvelle cuisine has translated to the techniques of the 21st century. It’s just a mat - THE GREAT PLAY BETWEEN TExTURE AND ter of time before the architectural plate COLOUR IN THE BEST OF NOUVELLE CUI - returns. The late, great Jean-Louis Palladin, SINE HAS TRANSLATED TO THE TECH - of the Watergate Hotel in Washington, D.C., NIQUES OF THE 21ST CENTURY was a master of this form. Memorialized in Jean-Louis: Cooking with the Seasons , such art was best expressed by a breathtaking black- and-white block of potato slices layered with black truffles. Overall, it’s clear there’s much irony in the “ modern culinary world. While chefs are inter - ested in locavore cooking, they also search for to create. The Escoffier Cookbook , Wenzel’s acute sense of place, not far behind. inspiration from afar by seeking stage posi - Menu Maker , The New International That sense of place, now so important, fol - tions, particularly in Denmark, Spain and Confectioner , Le Repertoire de la Cuisine and lows the rise of fusion food. Hugh Australia. In the name of molecular gastrono - Herings Dictionary were the tomes on which a Carpenter’s 1993 cookbook, Pacific Flavors , my, they use food additives, which wouldn’t chef built his career. Their weightiness was was one of the first books to marry Southeast be accepted in packages from big suppliers. symbolic of the heavy cuisine codified within. Asian in”gredients with western techniques. Yet, ingredients with a pedigree are also Books were authored by pioneers of the new Like nouvelle cuisine , what began as a great important — think heirloom vegetables and wave of French cooking, including Paul Bocuse, idea degenerated into a sometimes horrible meat from pastured heritage animal breeds. the Troisgros brothers and Alain Senderens. cacophony of flavours on the plate — think Perhaps these examples, which seem to repre - The chefs shared their recipes but not necessar - Italian, Mexican and Asian ingredients com - sent contradictions, prove that in today’s ily their philosophy, and, there weren’t many peting for attention. But, the trend did intro - modern culinary world, we can have it all. colour photos to guide the reader. duce some positive ideas to the industry. It Today, an increased number of home That is in sharp contrast to the contempo - brought the Australians and their restrained kitchens have professional equipment such as rary equivalent. When perusing books writ - approach to fusion cooking to the attention multi-burner stoves, sub-zero refrigerators ten by today’s chefs — Thomas Keller, René of North American cooks and diners. Twenty and immersion circulators. Restaurant Redzepi, Ferran Adria, Andoni Aduri and years later, the worst examples of fusion menus often mirror what the customer Magnus Nilsson — cooking philosophies cooking have been replaced with more judi - would formerly have cooked at home — with and photographs are front and centre while cious approaches that weigh the reality of vegetarian, vegan, raw food and gluten-free the recipes almost seem an afterthought. place with the appropriateness of interna - selections now taking centre plate. So, 30 Such books are proof of today’s chef person - tional ingredients. years after The Cookbook Store opened, the alities, which are aided and abetted by the These days, environmental considerations blurring of lines between home and profes - proliferation of cooking shows and the rise of are also influencing how chefs interpret sional kitchens that was prevalent in the social media. In the 1980s, such an online fusion cooking. For example, in the recently spring of 1983 has now come full circle. G power was unimaginable. published Smoke and Pickles , Brooklyn-born Look at that list of names of today’s afore - Korean American, Edward Lee, blends the Alison Fryer has been the manager of The mentioned culinary stars, and you notice flavours and techniques used by his Korean Cookbook Store since its inception in 1983 and another change. The chefs are American, family to bring a new zip to the most insular is a frequent media source for her expertise in Spanish, Scandinavian, while the French of American regional cuisine. With pickling cooking and cookbooks. Jennifer Grange, assis - influence has all but disappeared. Instead, the and smoking common to both cultures, his tant manager at The Cookbook Store, has a Spaniards, masters of molecular gastronomy, version of fusion makes perfect sense . background in journalism and cooking, and have become the chefs most likely to be Moreover, Fergus Henderson of St. John in has been working at the store since July 1983. copied, with the Scandinavians, and their London has brought nose-to-tail eating to a For more details, visit cook-book.com.

32 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOOD GLORIOUS FOOD

“Food, glorious food! ionel Bart, the lyricist who wrote the famous song, “Food We're anxious to try it. Glorious Food,” knew what he was talking about when he Three banquets a day — penned the lyrics to the opening song for the musical inspired by Charles Dickens’ novel . In it, the Our favourite diet! Oliver Twist protagonist not only dreamt and fantasized about food but postulated whether it was actually worth the wait. The fas - Food, glorious food! Lcination with food is one of life’s constants, but never before has it been What wouldn't we give for as pervasive and as deep-rooted as it is today. So, it seems a fitting That extra bit more — way to introduce The Food Issue, which offers an in-depth, fun look at That's all that we live for how food is shaping the restaurant industry. Why should we be fated to Turn the page for insights into five key food trends, from sustainabil - Do nothing but brood ity (p. 35) to healthy eating (p. 39), ethnic foods (p. 43), the meat and On food, vegetarian evolution (p. 47) and casual dining (p. 51); there’s a lot to chew on. We’ve devoted our entire summer issue to this important Magical food, topic, dissecting the key trends impacting the way we eat, the ingredi - Wonderful food, ents and flavours we gravitate towards and the chefs who inspire us at Marvellous food, every turn, changing the way we look at food and the dishes we crave. Fabulous food” It’s more than a fascination; it’s an obsession. We hope you bite into this issue and find it to your liking. Bon Appétit!

— Rosanna Caira, editor and publisher

35 39 43 47 51

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With the magazine app, yFoouo cdasne ravcice sasn adl lH thoesp laitatelistyt issues. View the entire issue page by page or jump directly to your favourites. All the departments and features you’ve come to know and love, all at the tap of a screen

Search “Foodservice and Hospitality magazine” in the App Store. SUSTAINABILITY THE CIRCLE OF SUCCESS

Foodservice operators know sustainability is important, but do they know it’s a commitment to continuity and not a new mar - keting campaign?

BY MARY LUZ MEJIA

rom organic, locally says Clark. sourced and ethically pro - In Toronto, at Brad Long’s Fduced food and beverages, Cafe Belong at the Evergreen to environmentally sound recy - Brickworks, the LEED-con - cling practices, the idea of sus - structed and engineered building tainability has gained main - is just part of the chef’s sustain - stream traction in foodservice in ability plan at the restaurant. “I the last 10 years. give the staff the opportunity to Robert Clark, who helmed the understand where the ingredi - kitchen at Vancouver’s sustain - ents come from, why we use able-seafood maverick C Restaurant them, what we do with them and for 15 years, and is now opening how each ingredient con - the Ocean Wise-certified sustain - tributes,” he says. “People are able seafood concept, The Fish simply encouraged to under - Counter, believes sustainability is stand their food now, as opposed more than a marketing tool. Part to ingesting and moving on.” of it is the desire to access the Long, one of the biggest advo - very best ingredients to create cates of sustainable food prac - beautiful dishes. “I want to pre - tices in Canada, has been culti - serve the sustainability of my vating relationships with farm - profession, because the more ers, artisanal food producers, restaurants that get pre-cooked, Canadian wine and beverage pre-cut, pre-portioned food, the makers and suppliers for more we lose our craft. There is decades. He aims to source “Best- drive away. In fact, Smart adopt - locally sourced food and bever - no joy in opening a bag and hav - in-Class ingredients” (98 per cent ed the invaluable supplier con - age at restaurants and grocery ing a Rational range ‘cook’ it for local and organic) that admitted - tacts from his property’s prede - stores, likely because this attrib - you,” he says. ly cost more but contribute to cessor Michael Howell, who was ute strongly enhances con - At Vancouver’s Fish Counter, food he’s proud of and his cus - chef and owner of the much- sumers’ taste perceptions.” Clark will work directly with tomers enjoy. lauded Tempest restaurant. Like For all three chefs, the key is Pacific Northwest fishermen to Meanwhile, 12 minutes down Clark, Smart cut out the middle - value, not cost. Clark advises cut out the middleman and offer the road from Front and Central man. The result? “People are will - food operators wanting to make the freshest, seasonal, sustainably restaurant in the university town ing to pay a little more for good responsible choices to start with caught hauls of the day to restau - of Wolfville, N.S., former engi - product prepared well, especially one menu item and gauge cus - rants and retail customers. neer and project manager- if they like your story and what tomer demand. If that doesn’t Patrons unsure of how to prepare turned-chef/owner Dave Smart you stand for,” says Smart. work, try another. “The goal is to sardines, for example, can watch sources most of his own produce Research by the Chicago- make sustainable choices, not to Clark and his staff grill them and from his local farm community. based research firm Technomic put people out of business. If we then choose to eat in or take out. He’s built a relationship with an Inc. backs up this observation. can put a man on the moon — Integrity in labelling species cor - organic farmer to grow what he And, the recent “Healthy Eating we’re capable of anything. Don’t rectly will also be of utmost needs, how he needs it. His pro - Consumer Trend Report” states: say you can’t, because you can. importance in boosting the cus - teins come from another ethical, “More than a third of consumers The question is do you want to?” tomer/fishmonger relationship, sustainable supplier, also a short are willing to spend more for challenges Clark. G

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 35 SUSTAINABILITY

CHANTERELLE & FARRO SALAD Recipe by Dave Smart, chef and owner of Nova Scotia’s Front & Central

Sautéed Chanterelle Mushrooms Ingredients 1 lb chanterelle mushrooms 1/4 cup unsalted butter to taste salt to taste white pepper

Method Clean and trim chanterelles well. Cut large mushrooms into smaller pieces.

Heat butter in a sauté pan over medium- high heat.

When milk solids start to brown, add mushrooms and cook for about one to two minutes.

Remove from pan, and transfer to a DAVE SMART, paper towel-lined baking sheet. Season NOVA SCOTIA At Wolfville, N.S.’s Front & Central, chef with salt and white pepper. SUMMER Dave Smart will prepare a summer salad of Find out how chefs are using sautéed chanterelles with pea purée, farro, Pea Purée Ingredients cFhaAnterVellesO thisU seaRson ITE micro basil, crispy prosciutto and Parmesan 1 cup fresh peas salt, finished with a vinaigrette of camelina 1/2 cup vegetable stock Summertime in Canada heralds the much- oil (derived from the Camelina sativa to taste salt anticipated chanterelle season, or in common oilseed) and apple cider vinegar (it will sell to taste white pepper kitchen vernacular, the hard-working beauty for between $12 and $14). For Smart, the 3-4 drops truffle oil of the mushroom world. The golden-hued best part is that the mushrooms are foraged Method wild mushrooms that some experts say are in nearby woods by a local forager who Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil singularly spectacular when they’re from keeps the harvest locations top secret. and prepare an ice bath. Canada, are versatile and delicious, with a fra - grant, earthy aroma. We asked three chefs Blanch peas for one minute and BRAD LONG, what they’ll be doing with the beauties this immediately transfer to ice bath to stop TORONTO cooking. When completely chilled, summer. At Toronto’s Cafe Belong, Brad Long will be transfer peas to a blender and add grilling Bison steaks with sautéed vegetable stock. chanterelles (mid $40 range). He’ll feature ROBERT CLARK, them for brunch alongside an egg main that Purée until smooth, adjusting consistency VANCOUVER “There’s nothing better than chanterelles will roll out each weekend during the season. with vegetable stock. Season with salt and pepper, adding truffle oil (if using). simply cooked in butter, lemon juice, white “I love the unique perfume that chanterelles wine and thyme” says Robert Clark, a veter - give when they are dry and perfect from the Farro Salad an Vancouver chef who’s preparing to open forest. They always sell well, and once they Ingredients The Fish Counter, an Ocean Wise-certified start coming in, I use them everywhere and 1 cup farro sustainable seafood concept. He hopes to use anywhere as they boost other flavours thanks 1/2 tsp Dijon mustard the mushrooms as part of a warm weather to their umami,” says Long. “They are a gor - 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar 1/2 cup camelina oil go-to side dish to accompany his many fish geous colour and, like everything that has a to taste salt preparations. “I’m still playing around with season, the anticipation has built up from to taste white pepper what I’ll do with them exactly, but this sim - the wait since last season.” 1/4 cup basil, fresh and cut chiffonade ple recipe is a strong contender.” And, Clark 1/4 cup shallots, minced has exceptional choice given that British

Columbia, and the Queen Charlotte Islands CONTINUED ON PAGE 38 in particular, produces clean, sturdy specimens.

36 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM SUSTAINABILITY

PUTTING NOVA SCOTIA FRONT AND CENTRAL Sometimes unexpected finds leave Dave Smart happily awestruck. The chef and owner of Front and Central in Wolfville, N.S., had one such moment when he dis - covered a maple syrup producer in Aylesford, N.S. “It’s better quality than the stuff I was getting, less than the big-box supplier, and it blew my mind it was so good. A four-litre jug was $20 cheaper and, the best part is, I can touch the tree where it came from,” enthuses Smart. The chef hopes his small-plate, contem - porary Canadian menu with ingredients “grown in my own backyard” encourages comfort. He uses sous-vide technology to one such example. “This dish needed a bit of “My customers are conscious of what prepare juicy proteins and flavour-popping a boost and the gastrique does that — it they eat and where their food comes from. ideas from his travels. props up the low end of the dish as gnocchi They know who Al is and they trust him — The chef’s chive gnocchi with oyster can sometimes be heavy.” The gastrique is for me, that’s a great transparency piece that mushrooms, kale, ricotta and truffle oil fin - sourced at Al Stewart’s Organic Farm where my servers and front-of-house share with ished in a maple ginger gastrique ($14) is it’s grown for Smart who washes and bags it. diners who then don’t mind paying a little

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more for excellent quality,” says Smart. sources. It’s about leveraging relationships CONTINUED FROM PAGE 36 It’s the same with the sustainable land- with producers and farmers who do it right Method based fish from Sustainable Blue — a Bay — and welcoming wine tourists from Cook farro in pot of salted water. Farro should be covered by at least two of Fundy-based fish producer that uses Halifax, for example. For Smart, spotlight - inches of water. clean, cutting-edge aquaculture technology ing the terroir in which his food is sustain - — the lamb that grazes on Nova Scotia’s ably sourced is paramount to offering an When farro is tender, but still has some Annapolis Valley grasses and the nearby experience for which he’s proud. bite, drain and rinse well under cold award-winning wines and ciders Smart water. Transfer to paper-towel lined baking sheet to dry.

To make vinaigrette, whisk mustard and apple cider vinegar together. Add camelina oil in a steady stream while whisking. Season with salt and white pepper.

Combine cooked farro, basil and shallots. Add vinaigrette (to taste).

Parmesan Salt Ingredients to taste grated parmesan cheese

Method ® Transfer grated parmesan cheese to a parchment-paper lined baking sheet in a thin layer.

Place in a 425°F oven until golden brown — for six to eight minutes.

When cooled, break parmesan into a coarse 'salt.'

Crispy Prosciutto Ingredients 2 tbsp vegetable oil 4 slices prosciutto

Method Heat oil in a large sauté pan. When oil Leading Professional Chefs is hot, add slices of prosciutto and sauté until almost crisp. Prosciutto will Toward Tomorrow... continue to crisp as it cools.

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•Patented,state-of-the-arthandledesign To plate •DistinctiveDex-Tex™Armadillotexture Spoon pea purée on plate. •Softcomfortwithsolidhandlecontrol •Stain-free,high-carbonsteelblades Top purée with farro salad and sautéed •Ultimate,longlastingsharpedges chanterelle mushrooms. Sprinkle parmesan salt over the salad. See your Dexter-Russell® Lamplough Cutlery LTD. Garnish with micro-basil and pieces of distributor today or see us at 5501 Vanden Abeele crispy prosciutto. www.vloknife.com Montreal, Quebec H4S 1S1 Tel. 514-335-7883 • Fax: 514-335-9651 Yield email: [email protected] ©2006 Dexter-Russell, Inc. www.dexter-russell.com 4 Servings   : 6     38 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM HEALTHY EATING THE GREAT DEBATE

Etreme Pita

Nutrition information on restaurant menus is the hot-button Extreme Pita health issue in foodservice this year. What’s coming next for the industry?

BY REBECCA HARRIS

’ll have the Angus effective, and if governments care Bacon & Cheese burger about the health of their con - “I with 780 calories and stituents, then they’ve got to fig - 1,990 milligrams of sodium, ure out a way to do that better,” please. Hold the fries.” Sound says Bill Jeffery, national coordi - odd? Well, nutrition information nator, Centre for Science in the tucked behind counters in fine Public Interest, an Ottawa-based print could one day be a thing of health-advocacy organization. past, as health advocates push for The Canadian Restaurant and mandatory calorie and sodium Foodservices Association (CRFA) counts to be displayed on restau - opposes mandatory labelling on rant menus and menu boards. menus. “It would be very chal - In April, Toronto’s Board of lenging to provide calories on Health called for mandatory menus and menu boards because menu labelling at chains with of the customization in a restau - more than 10 restaurants or at rant operation,” says Joyce least $10 million in annual sales. Reynolds, EVP, Government The Board said if the province Affairs at the CRFA. has not passed a law requiring So, the CRFA is working on a menu labels by Sept. 1, the city national, voluntary framework should implement its own bylaw. based on B.C.’s Informed Dining In Ontario, NDP MPP France program, introduced by the B.C. Gélinas tabled a bill called government last year. Participating “Healthy Decisions for Healthy restaurants supply nutritional tional information is supplied in operators may push their suppli - Eating” for the third time. The information in an appendix to a separate pamphlet. “Most peo - ers to reduce sodium in certain bill, re-introduced in April, the menu or a brochure. “We feel ple have come to expect that ingredients. “Even though it will would require chain restaurants we’ve got a solution that meets the restaurant food is a little heavier be small increments over time, it with five or more locations in information needs of customers,” than what you would make at will make a significant difference Ontario, and sales of at least $5 says Reynolds. home,” says Pamela Waring, mar - in the long term,” she says. million a year, to post calorie To date, 26 restaurant chains keting manager at De Dutch. While no one knows how the counts next to each menu item. have joined B.C.’s Informed “[But] they like the idea that if menu-label debate is going to Items containing high sodium Dining program, including new they ask for it, they can get it.” play out, the issue is not going levels would also be flagged. additions such as Boston Pizza, Displaying calorie and sodi - away. “We’ve got great natural And, while Mississauga, Ont.- McDonald’s, Pizza Hut and Tim um counts could have an unin - experiments in other jurisdic - based Extreme Pita is one chain Hortons, which will roll out the tended benefit: product reformu - tions to see the future of how that posts calorie counts on its program by the end of the year. lation. “Restaurants that provide things could pan out in Ontario menus, many restaurants only Surrey, B.C.-based De Dutch nutrition information want that or [nationwide],” says Leslie provide nutritional information Pannekoek House Restaurants information to look good,” says Whittington-Carter, Ontario on brochures and websites. “It was one of the program’s original Katie Jessop, national business government relations coordina - seems painfully obvious that the participants. The Informed development manager for the tor at Dietitians of Canada. “It way restaurants are providing Dining logo now appears on Heart & Stroke Foundation’s would be great to see a consistent nutrition information is not every menu page, and the nutri - Health Check program. And approach across the country.” G

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 39 HEALTHY EATING

THE SALT CONNECTION According to the Toronto-based Dietitians of Canada association, the average Canadian takes in 3,400 mg of salt per day, more than twice the recom - and residents. mended limit. And, Wilson trained staff on better plate pres - high intake of sodium entation and scratch cooking, replacing increases the risk of high pre-assembled meals with healthy, freshly blood pressure, which can lead to heart dis - cooked items ( pictured above ). The final 50 ease, stroke and kidney disease. Health recipes take into account allergies, vegetari - Canada reports about 77 per cent of the an diets, food intolerances and medical sodium Canadians consume comes from DOCTOR’S requirements — on a budget of $7.46 for packaged, processed and restaurant foods. Finding a fix for Toronto-based three meals a day per person. In 2010, The Sodium Working Group, POroviRdencDe HEealthRcarSe’s m enu woes “Patients have very specific needs, but chaired by Health Canada, released its rec - certain dishes cross a number of different ommendations for salt reduction after two- Fish polonaise with lemon or coq au vin? diets,” says Wilson. Given the tight budget, and-half-years of work. Among the recom - No, these aren’t the daily specials at a fine- and need for efficiency, a dish that’s gluten- mendations, were voluntary reduction of dining restaurant. They’re now on the menu free will also be vegetarian and low sodium. sodium levels in restaurant foods and at Toronto’s Providence Healthcare after a “The goal is to cross as many diets as you mandatory sodium and caloric information foodservice makeover by Mark Wilson, pres - can with one recipe.” to be placed prominently at chain restau - ident of Mark Wilson Culinary Consulting The trend for allergy-free, low sodium rants. In February 2011, Health Canada qui - in Toronto. and healthier foods is increasing, not just in etly disbanded The Sodium Working Group, Like many healthcare facilities, Providence healthcare, but throughout the foodservice a major cause for concern among health Healthcare, a rehabilitation and long-term industry, says Wilson. “Chefs need to look at advocacy groups. care facility, was faced with shrinking food this closely and work with their distributors budgets. The result was using more pre- and manufacturers to find solutions.” packaged meals at a time when patients require fresh, healthy food and have special dietary requirements. Hired to transform the menu, Wilson got the cooks, well, cook - ALLERGY ing again. “Many of the cooks have been there for AboLutE 2.5R-mTillion 20 or 30 years and were mostly unmotivated Canadians suffer from to do better,” says Wilson. “They were doing a food allergy, or 7.5 the same menu over and over again … and per cent of the population, instead of using their skills they were basi - according to a 2010 national survey. The cally opening and re-therming prepared research, conducted by Montreal's McGill products. There was no passion or enjoy - University Health Centre, found that 1.9 per cent of Canadians have a ment in their work.” peanut allergy; 2.4 per cent have a tree-nut allergy; one per cent have a From September to December 2012, fish allergy; and 20 say they’re allergic to sesame. In March, the Wilson worked with the Nutrition and Food Canadian Restaurant and Foodservices Association launched “Food Services Department at Providence Allergies: A Guide for Restaurants,” a primer to help restaurant staff Healthcare to retrain staff, improve the better understand food sensitivities and what can be done to avoid quality and variety of the food and enhance potentially life-threatening allergy-related incidents. the overall dining experience for patients

40 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM HEALTHY EATING

According to very real demand for these options, partic - new data from ularly in the restaurant industry.” The NPD Restaurant operators are responding to Group, inter - the increased demand for gluten-free menu est in gluten- options. According to NPD’s MenuTrack, and wheat- which analyzes menu trends of the top 53 free menu Canadian restaurants, there were 36 per items has cent more mentions of “gluten free” on increased 137 menus in 2012 than there were on menus per cent in the last in 2011. “Gluten free” is also the top menu three years. “We have item health claim, with 4.8 mentions per been tracking the eating menu, compared to the next distant health habits of Canadians for 20 years, claim, “low calorie,” which has one mention HOLD and the one consistency is that people are per menu. THE doing their best to make healthier choices, In April, Surrey, B.C.-based De Dutch GlLutUenT-fEreNe items take on new impor - both at home and when dining out,” says Pannekoek House Restaurants launched a tance at restaurants Robert Carter, executive director of gluten-free menu at its 23 locations. Foodservice at The NPD Group, while Gluten-free pannekoeks, made with rice Restaurant operators are getting wise to commenting on the company’s CREST flour, are made in advance and frozen. wheat. The rise of celiac disease, along with MenuTrack study. “Whether the decision to When a customer orders one, added ingre - a general concern about wheat consump - eat gluten-free meals is the result of actual dients such as fruit and meat are placed on tion, has created a meteoric rise in demand intolerances or simply interest in exploring top of the pannekoek. (For traditional pan - for gluten-free products. a new diet, the fact remains that there is a nekoeks, which come in 50 varieties, the

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ingredients are cooked within.) “We were seeing more requests IF YOU’VE GOT AN APPETIZER for gluten-free items, so it was filling a need in the market,” says Pamela Waring, marketing manager at De Dutch. “There’s THAT’S NOT SELLING, SWITCH always that one customer in a group of four who has an issue.” OUT THE REGULAR FLOUR FOR Mark Wilson, president of Toronto’s Mark Wilson Culinary CHICKPEA FLOUR, BECAUSE Consulting, says offering gluten-free items doesn’t have to mean reinventing the wheel. “If you’ve got an appetizer that’s not sell - “THEN YOU’RE APPEALING TO ing, switch out the regular flour for chickpea flour, because then GLUTEN-FREE AND CELIAC you’re appealing to gluten-free and celiac customers.” CUSTOMERS Even having just one or two gluten-free options could save potential lost business. “It answers the question of the [big] group who calls and says, ‘one of us is gluten-free. What can you do for us?’” says Wilson. “If you don’t have an answer, they will find someone who does.”

TDhIDe UYnOiteUd KSNtaOteWs i?s leading the way in mandatory menu labelling. In 2008, New York City became ” the first jurisdiction in the U.S. to pass legislation that required chain restaurants to identify calorie § levels on their menus. In 2010, Congress passed a law requiring restaurant chains to publish calorie counts on menus and menu boards. The Food and Drug Administration is working on new regulations.

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42 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM ETHNIC FOODS A CULTURAL MOSAIC

Ethnic cuisine continues to heat up in Canada, as Korean, Mexican and Middle Eastern gain favour

BY LAURA PRATT

he oft-repeated declara - Banh Mi Burger ($12.95), rein - tion, “if you’re human, venting the Korean sandwich in a Tyou’re ethnic” has plenty vehicle with which Canadians are of applicability in modern more comfortable. Canadian cuisine. Nearly a quar - “We always hear about what’s ter of consumers polled for going to be hot, but some things Technomic’s recently published don’t pan out,” says Dana “Canadian Ethnic Food & McCauley, a well-known trends Beverage Consumer Trend and innovation expert and VP of Report” say they order more eth - Marketing for Plats du Chef, a nic foods and flavours today than North American purveyor of they were eating a year ago. And, high-end frozen foods. “Korean more than half of respondents is definitely one that did.” She told the Chicago-based research points out that a couple of years firm they’d like to see more eth - ago, bibimbap and kimchi were nic options at restaurants. As the pretty foreign concepts and that country’s palate evolves, some the Korean tacos sold from so-called “ethnic” foods are Vancouver food trucks during emerging as more dominant the Olympics were a novelty. than others. Below are details about the front-runners. Boston Pizza’s butter MExICAN chicken fettuccine and “Mexican foods and flavours are Banh Mi Burger becoming more firmly KOREAN Consumers are more educated entrenched on Canadian restau - Korean components and sauces.” And, while the trend is migrating and adventurous with food than rant chain menus,” according to Similarly, Peruvian food con - to the full-service restaurant ever before, says Michael Gray, Technomic. The key, says Gray, is tinues to attract attention. level, with restaurants such as director of Culinary and execu - that the offerings be authentic. According to Technomic, this Toronto’s Mideastro, most of the tive chef at Boston Pizza. Such “We’re not looking for some san - cuisine can uniquely shine Middle-Eastern action currently characteristics find ample play in itized, creative version; we’re alongside Asian ingredients or as lives in the quick-service space, Korean fare, a cuisine with a willing to take the leap and come part of an Asian-style preparation. with hotspots such as Dr. Laffa widening influence that’s often out of our comfort zone, says and Ali Baba, both in Toronto, the result of a marriage with Robert Carter, executive director gaining ground in this category. MIDDLE EASTERN mainstream dishes. At Boston of Foodservice for the NPD Group. Part of the Middle-Eastern push There’s opportunity to adapt Pizza, for example, the chef at And, in the spirit of food is the perception that this type of the exotic flavours of this food Canada’s largest casual-dining fusions that are characterizing food is good for you, suggests type for the palate of a more con - restaurant jazzes up many of the this next crop of cuisine develop - Carter. “There’s a bit of a health ventional customer. Boston Pizza 110 menu items — including ment, Technomic predicts that halo to ethnic foods, including is preparing to launch a butter pizza, pasta, wings, burgers and “the next trend in Mexican cui - Middle Eastern,” he says. chicken pizza ($10.49) and but - sandwiches — with Korean sine calls for the development of Authenticity, flavour and share - ter chicken flatbread ($12.99) in flavours so they’re more Asian-fusion offerings that pair able portions, says Technomic’s September, while butter chicken “approachable.” Last summer, traditional Mexican flavours and report, are also important expla - fettuccini ($16.25) will be intro - the restaurant chain rolled out a preparations with Thai or nations for this cuisine’s surge. duced in the fall. G

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 43 ETHNIC FOODS

 PFindA outN howT chRefs aYre u sFingA GoVchujOang Uto spRice IupT thEeir K orean cuisine You may know it as Gochujang or, simply, “Korean ketchup,” but, either way, this late 16th-century, favourite is the go-to mother condiment of Korean spices. It’s a fer - mented paste made of glutinous rice powder, puréed soybeans, salt, garlic, onion and — the magic kick - er — red chili powder. It’s sweetened with sugar syrup and MIDDLE- buried in earthware to age. Spicy, EASTERN INVASION salty and sweet, gochujang is Falafel World, a nearly employed liberally by Koreans as 30-year mainstay in everything, from vegetable dip to Toronto’s Bloor West salad dressing. It’s also an important Village, is one of those places ingredient in bibimbap, tteokbokki, locals sing about passionately. It gochujang stew and bibim guksu. Keep was cool before the cuisine it purveys reading to find out how chefs are using had influenced North American menus, the condiment in their kitchens. and it’s hung on ever since, thanks to well- loved owner Hafiz Halabi’s enduring com - mitment to authentic cuisine. Fans rave about the freshness of ingredi - double-fried, and the meat inside is ten - THUMBS UP KOREAN ents here and linger particularly on the hum - der and juicy. If you’re not convinced, RESTAURANT, TORONTO mus ($3.81, small), made in the back with a Thumbs Up Korean Fast Food is a Anju’s tasting sampler offers a trio of whack of garlic in vast silver bowls. There’s bustling restaurant in the heart of flavours: salt and szechuan pepper, also chicken schwarma sandwiches ($5.53) Toronto’s Koreatown, where students teriyaki and gochuajang. Napkins are with tender meat, lots of delicately flavoured and young families gather to scarf essential. tabouli ($3.33, small) and a smattering of hot mandu, gamjatang and bulgogi with sauce. The plates with hummus, tabouli, cab - dumplings. But it’s dukbokki ($6.50), a JOON’S KOREAN bage, lettuce and three falafels ($7.08) are Korean rice cake served with vermicelli RESTAURANT, TORONTO generously portioned and reasonably priced. and cabbage and bathed in gochujang, DakGalBee ($8.25) is a boneless chicken And, there are grape leaves ($1 apiece) and that is the showstopper. Dukbokki is a dish served in the semi-basement of this salads, such as tangy lentil with onion famous South Korean dish made in a Koreatown no-frills staple where ingre - ($2.86). fiery sauce that has a healthy dollop of dients are ordered and wait staff oversee For vegetarians, Falafel World’s tightly gochujang paste at its heart. an at-table preparation that sends per - wrapped schwarma and falafel sandwiches fumed temptation up your nostrils and are popular. Meanwhile, the “Janina” sand - into your soul. In addition to the spicy, ANJU, CALGARY wich ($4.43) is an off-the-menu favourite Perched on a quiet street on the edge of marinated, dark-meat main player and a that’s made with hummus, lentils, eggplant, downtown, in what looks to be a con - side of spicy fermented cabbage, diners cabbage and tabouli stuffed in a pita. And, if verted two-story house, sits Anju. Here, choose add-ons such as sweet potato, you ask for the “combination” sandwich cooks prepare a slew of fragrant Korean rice, rice cakes, ramen and — spectacu - ($5.53), you can sample the best of both of vittles for a flock of hungry Calgarians. larly praised by fans — cheese. The Falafel’s Worlds: half schwarma, half falafel. Most celebrated is the signature dish, resulting concoction is a stew of meat, Falafel World’s no-frills, counter-service- Gochujang Korean Fried Chicken ($13), veggies and rice in a thick wash of only space is tight for strollers, and its interi - or Gochujang KFC, as it’s affectionality gochuajang. Portions are designed to or may need a bit of a refresh, but this much- known. The dish features a pound of share, and beer is an excellent chaser. loved source of local Lebanese cuisine is here enormous chicken wings elaborately Joon’s is one of only a handful of restau - for the long haul. coated with a spicy/sweet gochujang rants where this speciality is served. sauce. The wings are super-crispy and

44 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM ETHNIC FOODS

CRISPY CALAMARI WITH PICKLED HOT PEPPERS Recipe by Michael Gray, director of Culinary and executive chef at Boston Pizza

IDnigprpeidnige nStas uce to taste mayo to taste garlic aioli to taste lime pinch saffron (optional)

Method Use mayo as a base and combine finely minced garlic and lime juice to desired taste.

Add saffron to colour the sauce; the longer it sits in the sauce, the deeper the colour release and flavour. COMING IN IDnugsretidnige nFtlsour 2 tbsp all-purpose flour 1/2 tsp salt OCTOBER 1/4 tsp Spanish smoked paprika 1/4 tsp ground black pepper

Method Combine ingredients to make dusting flour. MARKETING

ICnaglraemdaierni tas nd Peppers ISSUE: 2 cups vegetable oil (for frying) 12 oz squid, cleaned and sliced into 1/4” rings (tentacles included) 3 oz pickled hot banana pepper rings SOCIAL to taste lemon to taste parsley MEDIA Method In a heavy-bottomed pan, heat the oil to 360°F. (Note: If it’s too hot the calamari will burn; if it’s not hot enough the FOOD: Kids’ Meals calamari will soak up the oil.) EQUIPMENT: From Drain the squid and toss in the seasoned flour with the pickled pepper rings to coat well. Shake off the excess Combi-Ovens to Wood-Burning dusting flour, and fry for approximately 90 seconds. Ovens

Drain the fried calamari and pepper mix on kitchen paper to remove excess oil. POURING FOR PROFITS: The BAR Report Cut lemon wedges and caramelize on the grill.

Transfer to a serving plate and garnish with grilled lemon To advertise, call wedges and chopped parsley. Pair with dipping sauce. (416) 447-0888, ext. 240 or visit our website, Yield foodserviceworld.com Serves two or three as a tapas-style appetizer

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 45

MEAT + VEG A TALE OF TWO WORLDS

From bacon and charcuterie to vegans and flexitarians, meat eaters and vegetarians alike are winning favour on the plate

BY LIZ CAMPBELL

he menu used to be easy speaks for many when he says, “I — meat, two veg, price. decided if I was going to contin - TWhat more did the cus - ue to eat red meat, then I owed it tomer need to know? to myself, as well as to the ani - But, today, the customer does mals, to take more responsibility need to know where and how the for the invisible but crucial trans - protein was raised, and that the action between ourselves and the two veg didn’t travel hundreds of animals we eat.” miles. They want to feel good Ethical and environmental about what they eat. And, they concerns have driven many want it to taste wonderful. Enter Canadians to vegetarianism. So, the socially conscious diner. now menus are sprouting lyrical “We see a strong move to options such as roasted eggplant, locally grown foods and a more zucchini, sweet peppers, arti - educated consumer,” says Robert chokes, white bean purée, crispy Carter, director Foodservice for polenta and tomato sauce ($40, the NPD Group Canada research Raymond’s, St. John’s, N.L.). firm. Today, chefs that deliver on “We’re getting away from this have become celebrities, and meat,” confirms Rose Reisman. their menus have made rock stars She designs menus for The Pickle of the farmers and producers Barrel, an Ontario casual restau - from whom they source their rant chain and Toronto’s upscale The Pickle Barrel ingredients. Glow Fresh Grill, as well as for Conscientious and local are her catering company. “We’re a vegetarian buffet chain, recent - the names of restaurants such as key descriptors. The Canadian using more grains like quinoa, and ly introduced flexitarian options. Au Pied du Cochon (Montreal), Restaurant and Foodservices lean cuts like flank steak in our Customers can garnish their veg - Beast (Toronto) and Wildebeest Association’s 2013 Chef Survey healthy menu. Vegetarian burg - etarian dishes with Nordic (Vancouver) trumpet their put locally sourced dishes and ers made from mushrooms and shrimp, Maritime crab or meaty menu. Nonetheless, most sustainability first and second in barley, or chickpeas, are popular.” Quebec chicken. It created a espouse the economic and envi - dining trends. Nutrition and While there are many shades furor in Quebec, but the hope is ronmental benefits of the nose- organics were third and fourth. of vegetarian — from strict it might attract a new group to to-tail approach. “I like to think Thus, forming alliances with vegan to allowing fish, eggs or the struggling chain. we helped to make pork belly local producers has become an dairy — a hybrid has entered the For most Canadians, however, and head cheese fine dining,” important part of the chef’s role, fray. Flexitarians espouse vege - meat rules the dinner plate and laughs Scott Vivian, the Beast’s and nowhere is this more critical tarian principles for many differ - steakhouses continue to thrive. chef and owner. than in sourcing meat. ent reasons, including ethical At Vancouver’s Black & Blue, The continued challenge is to The carnivore guilt trip creat - ones, but they are reluctant to guests dine on 8- to 24-ounce cater to this ever-growing menu ed by films such as Food, Inc. can give up meat entirely. steaks while overlooking the of criteria — local, healthy be partly assuaged by ensuring Indeed, the defection from the meat locker where choice, even meaty/meat-free, flexitarian, sus - the animal being consumed has strictly vegetarian camp includes rare cuts, are hung. tainable — while keeping prices been humanely treated. Michael restaurants. Montreal-based Le Though their menus feature at manageable levels. Enter the Pollan ( The Omnivore’s Dilemma ) Commensal, which started life as less aggressively carnivorous fare, socially conscious, creative chef. G

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 47 MEAT + VEG P H O T O

SCOTT VIVIAN, B Y

TORONTO M A R Y

For Scott Vivian, chef A R M

and owner of Beast in S T R O

Toronto, the biggest N challenge is the time G and commitment required to establish relationships with his suppliers. Some are easy, others require “a lot of patience.” From the outset, he supported 100km Foods Inc., which distributes local, sustainable, harvested-to-order fruits and vegetables in season, as well as dairy, free-run eggs, artisanally milled grains and flours and more. There were hiccups. “I had to under - Wild game — moose, Arctic hare, partridge stand what they were going through to get the STwHo cOhefPs oPffeIrN tipGs t oB soAurcGing local — comes from registered hunters, lamb from produce from local farmers,” says Vivian. ingredients a farm an hour away. He even has local for - “And, I had to tell them I was unhappy as well agers who supply mushrooms such as boletus as when I was happy, so they could monitor and chanterelles. “Sometimes I like to forage the products.” At the start, it was difficult get - JEREMY in the early morning,” he adds. “When mush - ting people to accept local foods, which often CHARLES, ST. rooms are that fresh, they taste wonderful.” cost more. “So, it was essential that it be as JOHN’S, N.L. One of his favourite ingredients is parsnips. good, or better than imports. Otherwise, it For Jeremy Charles, “They come from Lester’s farm, 10 minutes defeats the purpose,” he says. “I love shopping chef at Raymond’s in away,” he says. “I love root vegetables, but at local farmers’ markets, because nothing St. John’s, N.L., the parsnips have such a beautiful flavour and tastes better.” Every supplier is on Beast’s joy of working on the they’re versatile.” He might do parsnip chips website. “I used to list them on the menu, but Rock is sourcing his ingredients locally. or purée them with a hint of honey and but - it started to read like an ad. Now, if someone “We’re in a unique position in that we can get ter. “They pair well with so many different likes something, I direct them to the website so much of what we serve right here,” he says. proteins” he says. where there are links to the producers’ sites.”

AIT q uTicAk pKerEusSal oTf mWenOus? a cross the country might lead one to wonder if Canadian chefs aren’t confused. Take Jeremy Charles of Raymond’s in St. John’s, N.L., for example. He pairs proteins in remarkable and apparently delicious ways. Cod is partnered with smoked pork, braised short rib with hal - ibut, even smoked moose tongue with rabbit. “Combining different proteins that marry well keeps the dish interesting and costs down,” he explains. The Grove in Winnipeg pairs braised duck leg with roasted pork belly in a fig sauce, and Ottawa’s Metropolitan Brasserie serves chicken with smoked pork belly and a red wine demi-glaze. Vancouver’s Pied-à-Terre serves pork cheek, scallop, braised chicken and cauliflower ravioli in one dish. And, Scott Bagshaw, chef at Winnipeg’s upscale Deseo Bistro, teams pork belly with Serrano-wrapped prawn mousse and crisp chicken skin. No waste here. “Different textures and flavours — like creamy prawns and caramelized pork belly — can add a whole new dimension to the dish,” Bagshaw says. Such creative pairings stretch the supply of expensive proteins with less pricey partners, while offering diners more for their dining dollar. It’s a win-win.

48 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM MEAT + VEG

THE NEW NORMAL Scott Bagshaw understands the new dining scene. The chef and owner of Deseo Bistro in Winnipeg was a vegetarian himself for four years, “partly because of cost and partly because it was the moral high ground,” he acknowledges. “Then I tasted steak one day; it was an epiphany.” He joined the burgeoning flexitarian camp. At Deseo, both vegetarian and meat dishes grace the menu, but his early concern for sus - tainability has meant that Bagshaw takes a nose-to-tail approach, wasting no part of the animal. A self-trained chef, he has nonetheless learned from some of the best at restaurants in New York, Australia and Winnipeg, always adding new culinary styles to his repertoire. But it was a stage with Susur Lee and Jason Carter that took him to the next level. “They were incredible,” he enthuses. “I learned more in a month than I did in any other job.” At Deseo, Bagshaw designs a menu quar - terly. When creating, he likes to play with flavours and textures. A favourite recent addition is a tapas dish of black truffle and ricotta gnocchi with shavings of truffle, his own boar bacon, fermented black garlic and a garnish of crispy black quinoa ($16). “The caramelized bacon, creamy ricotta and tangy garlic contrast beautifully,” he says, adding proudly, “It’s one of those moments when you know you’ve made one of your best dishes.” In true flexitarian fashion, vegetarians can order this dish without the bacon. Indeed, that’s the point. Because everything is made from scratch, nearly all his dishes can be rejigged for special concerns — gluten or nut allergies, vegetarians, anything is possible. Deseo has garnered accolades from local restaurant critics such as Marion Warhaft of the Winnipeg Free Press and organizations such as Vacay’s Top 50 Restaurants in Canada (the only Manitoba restaurant on the list). Bagshaw loves what he does and it shows. He’s even tattooed ‘Chef For Life’ on his forearm.

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10:56:33 AM CASUAL DINING

KEEP IT CASUAL

Homestyle comfort food (with a twist) and premium ingredients are driving the casual-food trend

BY JACKIE SLOAT -SPENCER

ye-bye fine dining. Bacon Signature McWrap, which Today’s customers are for - is filled with lettuce, tomatoes Bgoing the frills and fre - and jalapeño monterey jack quenting food trucks, fast-casual cheese ($4.99 each). What’s favourites and charming restau - more, the definition of a snack is Mucho Burrito Panera Bread rants for savoury snacks, comfort now broader than ever, and it’s food and easy-to-nosh burgers, blurring the line between differ - sandwiches, wraps and smoothies. ent dayparts. “It’s going towards One key trend that’s taking more beverages, and we’re seeing centre stage is fast-casual dining, consumers are considering drinks, heralded for offering premium especially coffee, tea and smooth - ingredients at affordable prices. ies a good snack and [going to] “Consumers are starting to see restaurants more for that as [that] they can get really good well,” says Weikel. For example, food for a low price, so they are at Panera Bread, customers can trading up from fast food,” grab a fat-free superfruit power The Naaco Truck P

explains Kelly Weikel, senior con - smoothie, with Greek yogurt and H O T sumer research manager at ginseng (prices vary by location). O

( B O

Chicago’s Technomic research “[Casual food] comes and T T O firm. At Mississauga, Ont.’s goes with the ebb and flow of M

R I G

Mucho Burrito, customers can economics,” says Anthony Rose, H T )

B

pick up flour or whole-wheat who serves comfort food with a Y

Rose and Sons B R burritos filled with premium twist at his Toronto-based Rose Y C E ingredients such as pan-seared and Sons restaurant. “Ten years casual-food movement; the the “comfort-food zone” can also M E Y E tilapia (small, $7.19). Meanwhile, ago there was a ton of fine-din - meals-on-wheels provide the grab a mom-and-pop-style mac- R ,

P H

fast-casual burger chains, such as ing establishments in [Toronto]; perfect opportunity for chefs to and-cheese from Vancouver’s O T O

U.S. import Five Guys Burgers now, most of them have gone by showcase creative renditions of Reel Mac and Cheese, which ( B O T and Fries, offers made-to-order the wayside.” In a downturn, cus - street-food classics. For example, offers a rendition of the classic, T O M

patties dressed with premium tomers choose casual eateries Calgary’s Naaco Truck offers topped with fried egg and L E F T )

toppings, such as its hamburger that don’t hurt the budget, and tacos with an Indian twist, such caramelized onions ($9). And, B Y with grilled onions, mushrooms that trend has continued into as its Paunchy Pig Naaco on naan the handheld treats are also C O N N

and green peppers ($6.99). better economic times. Rose’s bread, filled with pork, Indian becoming a staple at premium- I E

T S

Snacks are also taking the concept plays on nostalgia, but it five-spice, seasonal vegetable casual chains such as Vancouver’s A N spotlight, since 56 per cent of offers more upscale food, such as salad with a roasted poblano Cactus Club Café, which offers G customers snack multiple times a fried rice with egg, pork belly, dressing, tamarind and pineap - Ocean Wise lingcod fish tacos on day, according to Technomic’s ginger, peanuts and china-town ple chutney as well as green hand-stretched tortillas ($14). “Canadian Snacking Consumer sauce ($14) or the patty melt onions ($10), with spiced green Weikel sums it up: “[Operators] Trend Report.” When customers burger, with grilled cheese, fried iced-tea ($3). “It’s all the flavours have to have something a bit dif - have less time for a sit-down onions, french fries and chili of a traditional Indian buffet, in ferent that makes them stand meal, wraps fill the need for a mayo ($16). one mobile, handheld platform,” out, that creates a signature that quick bite. One such example is Meanwhile, food trucks are describes Aman Adatia, co- will help drive consumer craving McDonald’s new Chicken and more than just a vehicle for the owner. Consumers stuck inside and sales.” G

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 51 CASUAL DINING

MFind Eout hAowT cheYfs a reF usAing VbacOon thUis seRasoIn TE

American columnist Doug Larson once said “Life expectancy would grow by leaps and bounds if everything smelled as good as bacon.” No longer just an accompaniment to eggs and toast, the protein is showing up in various incarnations, from braised pork belly to English-style rashers, to bacon jam (even bacon-flavoured mayonnaise and bacon salt is becoming a staple). Below is a look at how three chef teams are bringing home the bacon.

STEPHEN PYNN, JEFF ZIPP, RICHARD MULLEY, TORONTO VANCOUVER TORONTO At the Toronto-based Bannock restaurant, At The Mill Marine Bistro in Vancouver, In another twist, take the classic bacon Stephen Pynn, chef de cuisine, whips up a patio-goers can order multiple variations of sandwich and add a British/Irish influence, spicy bacon jam that serves as the founda - the Caesar. Its Albertan Caesar ($10) fea - and you’ve got the Full Monty sandwich, tion for his grilled cheese with house bacon tures whisky as a base and imparts savoury made at Toronto’s Rashers restaurant. and crisp apple ($15). To make the jam, he flavours similar to a steak; it feeds the “Typically North American bacon is taken combines bacon, chorizo, onions, garlic, appetite with a thick slice of bacon as a gar - from the belly of the pig, and peameal style maple syrup, coffee and Szechuan pepper - nish. “We start with a steak-spice-rimmed bacon is taken from the back of the pig, and corns, then adds house-made brioche, pro - pint glass and add vodka, Jack Daniels and the British/Irish-style of bacon, we call ‘the volone, brie and crisp apple before putting barbecue sauce to our signature house mix Rasher,’ is a combination of both, and it’s the sandwich together and slicing it ($15). of Caesar spices and Mott’s Clamato. The smoked in a similar way as strip [bacon] is “The coffee intensifies the bacon flavour and bacon garnish is the best part. It has great in North America,” says Richard Mulley, co- gives more depth to the jam. The chorizo colour and flavour on its own and tastes owner. The Full Monty ($7.04) is topped [adds] a little texture and spice, and the even better after marinating in the juices of with a fried egg, served with thick home- peppercorns [add] subtle flavour and the Caesar,” explains Jeff Zipp, assistant GM. sliced rasher bacon, juicy fried tomatoes and tongue-numbing quality,” he explains. “People get really excited about the idea of seasoned mushrooms with a choice of “Overall, the flavour is smoky, sweet and mixing bacon with alcohol,” he adds. “It’s homemade brown sauce or ketchup, all on a savoury, and mildly spiced — delicious. The like a marriage of two really indulgent white hamburger bun. “A lot of the taste sandwich is a classic, and we haven’t gone things you get to have at the same time.” comes from the fat,” explains Mulley. “So, too far from what people think a grilled you get the fat part of the strip bacon, you cheese should be,” adds Pynn. get that flavour profile there, but it has that meatier, round bit that you would find on peameal bacon, so it’s the best of both worlds.”

52 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM CASUAL DINING

BROTHER JUNIPER’S CORNBREAD GRIDDLE Recipe by Anthony Rose, owner, Rose and Sons, Toronto

Ingredients 2 cups all-purpose flour 1 1/2 cups yellow cornmeal or polenta 2 tbsp baking powder 1 1/2 tsp kosher salt 1/3 cup sugar SMOKED-MEAT MECCA 2 eggs Comfort food has staying power. Montreal-based Schwartz’s deli 1/4 cup butter (melted) has been serving its signature smoked-meat sandwiches since 2 1/2 cups buttermilk 1928, when Reuben Schwartz, a Jewish immigrant from Romania, 1 cup cheddar cheese (grated) founded the sit-down deli concept on Saint-Laurent Boulevard. Toppings Since then, Schwartz’s has become a can’t-miss spot for tourists 1/2 cup soft butter and lunchers, and it recently earned celebrity cred when Celine 1/2 cup maple syrup Dion became part-owner, and its products began selling in gro - 1/2 cup sweet 'n' hot chili sauce cery stores. 1 cup green onions (sliced) So, what’s the secret to attracting droves of diners? Frank Silva, long-time GM, explains the food’s simple appeal, by recalling a Method recent charity event where the team was serving sandwiches. In a large bowl, combine flour, cornmeal, baking powder, salt “There were shrimp and oysters around the area, but everyone and sugar. was lining up [at our booth] for a piece of smoked meat,” he laughs. “It’s a very simple meal, and it just tastes wonderful. And, In another bowl, combine eggs, melted butter and buttermilk. it’s been around for so long, and it hasn’t changed. We offer exact - Combine ingredients together and add cheese. ly the same thing we had in 1928.” Starting with brisket from

Amga foods, the meat is marinated in a secret blend of spices for Oil 12-inch cast-iron skillet. 10 days. The result is a classic smoked-meat sandwich ($6.65) with the choice of lean, medium or fat meat, piled high on rye Add batter and bake in a pre-heated oven at 350˚F for approxi - bread with yellow mustard and served with sides such as pickles mately 40 to 45 minutes (30 to 35 minutes in the baking dish) ($1.95), coleslaw ($2.75) and fresh, homemade french fries or until bread springs back when pressed in the centre or when ($2.95). a toothpick comes out clean. The restaurant is run by a brigade of 50 employees who take turns serving up to 1,000 customers a day in a 60-seat location. Just before serving, cut bread into wedges, brush with butter and griddle in a heavy skillet until toasted on all sides.

It’s the steady volume that’s allowed Silva to keep his prices low as P H O well as cutting out the middleman by buying directly from suppli - T O

Drizzle with maple syrup and sweet ’n’ hot chili sauce, and ( T ers. “It’s been a tough year in Montreal, because of the bad press O

sprinkle with green onions. P

R I we’ve had with strikes and politics, and it’s been pretty negative G H T ) for a lot of businesses in Montreal,” he says. “But, not Schwartz’s Yield B Y

C

— we’re up.” 12 slices O N N I E

T S A N G

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 53 CULINARY MAP

Charting Success

Although it’s impossible to high - light all Canadian restaurants, below is a look at the new and off- the-beaten-path hotspots men - tioned in this special food issue

B.C. 1) Black & Blue, Vancouver 2) The Mill Marine Bistro, Vancouver 3) Wildebeest, Vancouver Yukon 4) De Dutch Pannekoek House Territory Restaurants, Surrey, B.C. Northwest Territories ALBERTA 5) Anju, Calgary 6) The Naaco Truck, Calgary Yellowknife Nunav

MANITOBA 7) Deseo Bistro, Winnipeg British Columbia ONTARIO 8) Bannock, Toronto 9) Beast, Toronto 10) Cafe Belong, Toronto 11) Falafel World, Toronto Alberta 12) Rose and Sons, Toronto 13) Thumbs Up Korean Fast Food, Manito Toronto Edmonton 14) The Pickle Barrel, Markham, Ont. Saskatchewan 15) Boston Pizza, Mississauga, Ont. 2 1 3 5 6 Victoria Vancouver QUEBEC 16) Au Pied de Cochon, Montreal 4 Calgary 17) Le Commensal, Montreal Regina 18) Schwartz’s, Montreal 7 Winnipeg

NOVA SCOTIA 19) Front and Central, Wolfville, N.S.

NEWFOUNDLAND 20) Raymond’s, St. John’s, N.L.

54 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM Iqaluit vut

Labrador Newfoundland Quebec St. John’s oba 20 Prince Edward Island Charlottetown Ontario

Quebec City Nova 19 Scotia Montreal Fredericton Halifax Thunder Bay 18 New Ottawa 16 17 Brunswick 14 15 11 13 8 9 10 12 Toronto

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 55 FAVOURITE FOOD MEMORIES

My meal in Chicago two years ago, at Alinea [was fab - ulous]. I took a long weekend ASix C aTnadIiaMn chEefs s hTareO their fRavouErite Mfood EmemMorieBs ER to go to Chicago and eat there. It raised the bar of what food could be for me. The technical side of cooking was My favourite food memories are always the “astounding, the flavours were moments — and there are lots of them — insane, the plating was per - when I get to share a meal with great friends fect — the colours, textures and family. I hope to repeat this forever, till — it changed the way I look the end. at food.

“— BRAD LONG , CHEF AND OWNER OF — DAVE SMART , CHEF AND CAFE BELONG , TORONTO OWNER OF FRONT & ””CENTRAL , WOLFVILLE , N.S. I was newly married and was just learning to cook. My husband wanted me to make his father’s favourite dessert for a family dinner — New York cheesecake. So, away I went and voilà! — the most beautiful strawberry-glazed “cheesecake you could ever imagine. I was so proud, Noma — I often reflect on why that was. and his father was impressed — until I cut into it. The First off, the service was impeccable, but they contents flowed out like rapids in a stream! What I didn’t make you feel like you were in a stuffy had made was a cheesecake smoothie! restaurant; it was the most relaxing 4.5 I grew up kosher in my house - hours I ever had. The main thing was the hold, and I remember when I tastes were so unique. Here, my palate was — ROSE REISMAN , A CHEF AND COOKBOOK was 12 or 13 years old, I went to exposed to unfamiliar flavours, after 30 years AUTHOR WHO DESIGNS MENUS FOR GLOW FRESH see Quest for Fire with my “of cooking. My favourite was the clear, earthy GRILL AND THE PICKLE BARREL , TORONTO uncle Herb, and we went for consommé with big lettuce leaves; I was mes - lunch at a shitty greasy spoon, merized by having food in my mouth and and he ordered bacon and eggs. ” wondering how on earth they did it. “I was flabbergasted, because he was Jewish as well. But I was — ROBERT CLARK , VETERAN fairly young and was like VANCOUVER CHEF ‘alright, well, I’ll have bacon and eggs as well,’ and that was the first time I ate bacon. My dad was a firefighter, and, one afternoon, I helped cook ”din - ner for the firefighters in the station’s big communal kitchen. I — ANTHONY ROSE , OWNER , peeled potatoes and carrots, helped with the roast beef, made the ROSE & SONS , TORONTO gravy. Learning how to make something great from such simple ingredients, and then enjoying the camaraderie of sharing it with these guys, who were heroes to me, was what sparked my ” “interest in cooking. I was seven-and-a-half.

— MICHAEL GRAY , ExECUTIVE CHEF , BOSTON PIZZA , CANADA 56 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 ”FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM EQUIPMENT

STAR A look at the food-preparation equipment tPhat’Es turRningF heOads RMERS

BY DENISE DEVEAU

ixers and countertop blenders for the ultimate brands in on size and function ality. SWEET SPIN : blenders are sta - drink preparations; as terms of functionality Nigel Babb, senior Philippe Vancayseele, of Callebaut’s Chocolate ples in fine din - well as multifunction and versatility. But, once operations manager for Academy in Quebec, ing and QSR operations units that can weigh, you move up the appli - Booster Juice in Toronto, uses his Thermomix to make ganache alike, but while the chop, blend, steam ance food chain, it gets agrees, noting that Mmachines’ basic mechan - and/or cook. more interesting. Vitamix blenders are ics haven’t changed much, Immersion and hand standard at the 300-store their functionality is tak - blenders, along with chain, due to their dura - COUNTER ing on a new spin for their various attachments bility, ease of use and INTELLIGENCE chefs who like to make — from blades to whisks Vitamix has become a power. “Most of our the most of a good thing. — have been a staple in fairly ubiquitous name stores have three to five John Placko, chef and kitchens since the 1950s. in foodservice opera - Advance or Quiet One culinary director at the They’re the go-to appli - tions that use countertop models,” Babb explains. Modern Culinary ances for on-the-spot food-prep units. “The mechanisms and Academy in Mississauga, puréeing, whipping and “They’re expensive but pricing are the same for Ont., classifies blenders basic chopping needs. powerful, and they don’t both. The Quiet One is and mixers into three key Placko notes the Bamix burn out,” Placko says, of just a bit more compact categories: portable/ SliceSy from ESGE Ltd. the machines that cost and quieter, of course.” immersion blenders; in Switzerland is one of $800 or more, depending Having relied on top-of-

WThHenE it ScoMmeAs tSo sHigBnaUturRe mGenEu Rite mSsH, SAmaKshEbuDrgOer WhasN gone retro with its hand- spun Häagen-Dazs shakes. The authenticity of the experience is enhanced by the three- and six-head Waring spindle drink mixers, which are displayed proudly in front of the cashier’s station. “Those mixers are the biggest workhorses in our opera - tions,” says Scott Crane, president of the Denver-based franchise, which has two locations in Calgary where milkshake sales per unit are higher than in the U.S. Given the richness of the ingredients, finding the proper equipment was necessary to churn out quality shakes, Crane explains. “We had to engineer the syrups because of the robustness of the ice cream. That’s why spindle mixers work better than blenders, because they can break up the fat content properly for consistent results.” He admits hand-spun shakes are a throwback to years past, but they work. “It isn’t quick compared to soft-serve out of a spigot, which is why you don’t see as many shakes, but the guests love it.”

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 57 EQUIPMENT

the-line blenders since vide people with more

PMAuCltiO-fuJnEcTt ioPnO fWooEdR -p: rep the company was found - simplicity, labour savings units are gaining popularity ed 13 years ago, Babb and consistent results prefers to invest in a when it comes to food high-end unit. “Some of preparation. That’s why our locations could be we’re seeing a lot more mixing 200 drinks per of them in kitchens blender per day,” he says. today.” “With a quality blender, Meanwhile, Patrick we can easily go five years Watt, founder and prin - without any problem s.” cipal of A Day in Life And, while the overall Foodservice design and blade configu - Development, a Saint rations haven’t changed John, N.B.-based consul - much during the past tancy, notes that the years, pre-programming Robot Coupe Blixers are features have been added becoming an increasingly to the mix. For Booster popular investment, Juice, these configurations because they combine are input at the factory mixing and blending into based on brand specifica - one. “A lot of institution - tions. The new feature al kitchens use them just allows users to execute for puréeing, but they different combinations of can also be used for pas - speed cycles with the push tries. It’s a product that’s of a single button. For underutilized but has a
example, one setting lot of potential.” could run at high speed Priced at $1,800, the for a few seconds and Thermomix is also gain -

then automatically adjust ing traction in the food - to a lower speed to allow service market, Placko fruit to drop to the blades says. “[It] will weigh the ICE for better blending. ingredients, blend and CRUSHING Newer Vitamix models cook as well as allow you feature the motor higher to pre-set times and POWER! in the housing, so they speed. You’ll see at least can sit above the counter - one or two in any good top deck, which increases restaurant; some have as air circulation and many as six, because they reduces the chance of allow for such precise ETL Listed overheating, Babb cook ing.” CSA C22.2 NSF-8 explains. Chocolatiers are fans of Thermomix, too. Philippe Vancayseele, BLE-310 IT’S COMPLICATED BLE-110 When it comes to more director of Callebaut’s Blenders thoughtfully designed to deliver the ultimate complex food-prepara - Chocolate Academy in combination of power, performance and convenience. tion needs, multifunc - St-Hyacinthe, Que., has With 3HP, speed and timer controls, the BLE-310 is built tion units are becoming been using the technolo - for the busiest bars and restaurants. The BLE-110 1HP bar blender delivers consistently smooth icy drinks at a price popular in restaurant gy for a long time. “It’s that will make you say “Cheers.” Both feature virtually kitchens. And, although used by more profession - unbreakable BPA-free Triton containers. some cost up to $5,000, als in Europe, many of Bar Maid... “Best in the Bar” for over 50 years. they can be invaluable, whom are using it more Bar Maid Corporation • Pompano Beach, FL Placko notes. “These for chocolate or ganache Tel: (954) 960-1468 • barmaidwashers.com multifunction tools pro - making,” says the Belgian

58 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM Callebaut director. Le Sélect Bistro in a base, freeze it in canis - It’s become so useful Toronto, has two ters, ‘pacotize’ it and end VENDOR INFORMATION that the chocolatier never Thermomix units in his up with an incredibly Check the cheatsheet below for names and coordinates travels without it. “It’s the kitchen, which he uses velvety smooth textured of a handful of vendors who sell food-prep machines. first thing I [take] out for making hollandaise produce. The yield is (bamix.com) when doing demonstra - and butter sauces. “They even higher than the Bamix of Switzerland (barmaidwashers.com) tions,” he says. So, what’s emulsify nicely and hold Thermomix, because you Bar Maid Corporation (blendtec.com) Blendtec the big draw? This the temperature, so you don’t lose anything in (dynamicmixers.com) blender system features end up with a superior the process.” Dynamic Hamilton Beach Commercial four knives instead of the product. It’s also really The beauty of top-rate (commercial.hamiltonbeach.com) traditional two; it allows nice for spice rubs, mixing and blending (pacojet.com/en) Pacojet for high-speed grinding because the revolutions equipment is that a wise (robotcoupeusa.com) Robot Coupe of food items such as are so fast you can pul - investment will stand the (thermomixcanada.ca) Thermomix Canada (commercial.vitamix.com) hazelnuts, without creat - verize them into pow - test of time. Ponzo’s floor Vitamix (waringcommercialproducts.com) ing dust or generating ders. You just throw in model Globe mixer that Waring Commercial too much heat. “More your cloves and black he uses for baking and For a complete suppliers’ list, check knives mean you can cut pepper and let it rip.” He bread making is six years the Buyer’s Guide at . faster,” adds Vancayseele, admits the machines may old and still runs smooth - foodserviceworld.com who mainly uses his be pricey but confirms ly; his Pacojet is seven Thermomix for ganache they’re worth the cost. years old and continues to preparation, although it’s Ponzo also inherited a do a bang-up job. “[The] also ideal for mixing Pacojet, which he uses to old food processor I use to dough and creams. make ice cream, sorbet grate cheese is probably as Albert Ponzo, chef at and purée. “You can take old as I am,” he jokes. G

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ZtakZes centre STIL LBUCosftfaege e as chINGains continue to battle for customer share

BYAS CSOHCRIAITSET EIDNITEO RL,A TFECAHVNEO MGICR IANCC. E POURING FOR PROFITS

anada’s foodservice coffee wars continue to deliver victory for caffeine-craving consumers. And, competition has remained hot over the past 18 months, with the biggest chains rolling out new espresso beverages and/or complemen - tary snacks in quick succession. The coffee business in Canada is as dynamic as its customers. In fact, 62 per cent of con - Csumers surveyed for Technomic’s “2013 Canadian Bakery & Coffee Café Consumer Trend Report” said they visit coffee cafés — defined as limited-service coffee-focused chains — at least weekly, and 12 per cent said they visit daily. Moreover, 34 per cent of coffee-café cus - tomers say their visits have increased in the past year. And, the sales numbers for Canada’s coffee segment are striking: in Canada, coffee cafés alone accounted for more than $7 billion in sales in 2011, or about 28 per cent of total industry sales, according to Technomic’s “2012 Top 200 Canadian Chains Report.” Restaurant chains’ efforts to capture more traffic and sales within this enthusiastic market were broad and varied in 2012 and into 2013. Chain execs have sought to appeal to consumers with indulgent new tastes — such as a range of sweet, dessert-inspired espresso beverages — while promoting good corporate citizenship and responsible coffee sourcing. Of course, targeting consumers where it matters most — their wallet — con - tinues to be crucial. McDonald’s and Tim Hortons pegged $1 as the sweet spot for several of its beverage pro - motions; both chains, in fact, are courting summer beverage seekers by offering a small iced coffee for $1. And, McDonald’s is expanding that deal by offering a medium for the same price; Tim Hortons extends the $1 promo pricing to iced lattes. Both are featuring other cold beverages at the $1 price point, too.

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 61 POURING FOR PROFITS

CDoIDns YumOeUr sK loNoOk Wto ? big brands more often than not: Ninety-one per cent § of coffee café visits and 70 per cent of visits to bakery cafes are to chains rather than independent concepts.

Overall, continued operator innovation — in prod - uct, convenience and the overall experience — is essen - tial in maintaining customer loyalty and growing sales.

PREMIUM PLAYERS Perhaps the biggest news story in Canada’s coffee wars in 2012 was McDonald’s nationwide rollout of its McCafé brand. First introduced in some Canadian McDonald’s stores in November 2011, the line of pre - tination for coffee. mium-positioned espresso-based beverages made with In April 2012, Tim Hortons returned McDonald’s 100-per-cent arabica beans, sought to steal business, premium-espresso volley, launching a line of iced lattes, not just from premium-espresso leader Starbucks, but also made with espresso from 100-per-cent arabica also from Tim Hortons, Canadians’ top restaurant des - beans, plus fresh two-per-cent milk. Consumers look - ing for a more basic cup of java also had expanded choices by the end of 2012. In November, following Coffee • Espresso • Cappuccino Tim Hortons’ success with its packaged coffee, 1-877-Go-Latte (465-2883) McDonald’s began selling McCafé Premium Roast take-home coffee at participating Canadian stores. The chain introduced the coffee, sold in a 340g bag, for $6.99.

WHAT CONSUMERS CRAVE Whether buying coffee to make at home or grabbing it One Touch Barista on the go, convenience is key. More than seven in 10 Foaming Foaming coffee and bakery café customers listed convenience of location as a top reason why they choose one store over another. In another indicator of the importance of con - venience, 58 per cent of Canadian coffee-café orders are for takeout, according to Technomic’s “2013 Canadian Bakery & Coffee Café Consumer Trend Report” and 33 per cent are made at a drive-thru window. And, among consumers who say they are visiting coffee cafés more often, 58 per cent say they’re doing so because the con - cepts are conveniently located. Looking for new ways to offer convenience to guests, chain execs are turning to mobile payments and free Wi-Fi service. Tim Hortons announced in November that it would begin accepting mobile payments using select smartphones; McDonald’s trialed the same service in Toronto. And, last year, Tim Hortons started rolling out free Wi-Fi to its stores and introduced the Supramatic Inc. mobile application, TimmyRun, which is designed to Tel: 905-279-3666 - www.supramatic.com track group orders. Starbucks, too, has updated its iOS

62 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM POURING FOR PROFITS

THE TEA EQUATI N and Android apps, giving its loyalty club members easier mobile access to its MyStarbucks Rewards ea ranks far behind coffee in pop - information. ularity with Canadian consumers — especially as a foodservice BIG MOVES FOR BIG CHAINS purchase. More than three-quarters of But, in-store news aside, this summer, all eyes are on Canadian consumers (76 per cent) sur - Tim Hortons as former Nestlé executive Marc Caira takes the company’s reins from Paul House, who has Tveyed for Technomic’s “2012 Canadian worked at the chain for 28 years. In an article on Beverage Consumer Trend Report” said Maclean’s website, Canadian Business writer James they had consumed regular hot coffee in Cowan noted that Caira will likely have a short time to the past month; 54 per cent said the address one of the company’s most pressing concerns: same for hot tea. But, while 66 per cent U.S. expansion. Nearly at a saturation point in terms of of consumers said they had purchased Canadian units, Tim Hortons has struggled to build its coffee at a restaurant or other foodser - business south of the border, Cowan wrote. The chain vice operation in the past month, only 23 closed three dozen U.S. units in 2010, and U.S. same- per cent — less than half the share of tea store sales dropped 0.5 per cent in the first quarter, drinkers overall — said they had pur - compared with a decline of 0.3 per cent at domestic chased tea from a foodservice outlet. stores. Starbucks, on the other hand, looks to gain a This indicates significant opportunity for markedly larger presence in Canada, with plans to open restaurant operators to enhance and dif - more than 150 new locations — more than 100 of ferentiate their tea offerings. Some pro - which will be located inside Target stores. mote tea’s health halo, touting the offer - The game is heating up, and coffee remains one of ings as full of one thing (antioxidants, for the most interesting foodservice segments to watch. G example) or free from another (such as caffeine, preservatives). Last fall, Second Cup introduced orange spice tea, a “warm and soothing” caffeine-free choice described as offering a “sweet blend of STAND OUT WITH citrus fruits, tropical flowers and herbs.” A PRODUCT THAT’S Earlier in the year, Williams Fresh Café debuted made-in-house Freshly Brewed Ice Tea prepared “without the preserva - tives” and available unsweetened. Made with agave, the tea is positioned as a truly more-healthful alternative to traditional refined sugar. Capitalizing on the growing popularity of chai, a spiced herbal tea, unique several operators introduced chai-based beverages that appeal to the popular, SERVICE IDEAS familiar coffee platforms. Lettieri EXCLUSIVE Espresso Bar & Café debuted masala FLAME FREE™ chai organic tea, and Starbucks Canada THERMO-URN™ expanded its line of Tazo tea offerings MAINTAIN OPTIMUM with the new Iced Tazo Chai Tea Latte. FLAVOR FOR 6+ HOURS Quality of preparation is a selling point WITHOUT EXTERNAL for tea, too. In September, Tim Hortons HEAT expanded the availability of its popular Loose Leaf Steeped Tea to its Quebec stores, describing the orange pekoe tea as “steeped through a process that gen - SERVICE IDEAS, INC. tly coaxes out the flavour to produce a 2354 VENTURA DRIVE • WOODBURY, MN 55125 800-328-4493 • 651-730-8880 FAX • WWW.SERVICEIDEAS.COM consistently delicious cup of tea.”

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 63 POURING FOR PROFITS

And, Starbucks and 7-Eleven also got in on the salted-caramel flavour trend. Starbucks introduced a salted caramel FULL STEAM AHEAD mocha LTO last fall, and 7-Eleven debuted A look at three coffee menu a Skinny Salted Caramel Mocha, made with sucralose, in March. More recently, trends shaping the industry Starbucks added the Caramel Ribbon Crunch Frappuccino and the coffee-free BY CHRISTINE LAFAVE GRACE Caramel Ribbon Crunch Crème to its ASSOCIATE EDITOR, TECHNOMIC INC. frozen-beverage lineup for the summer. The drinks feature caramel syrup within cup of old-fashioned black java Canada’s leading coffee purveyors in the the beverage’s base and a layer of dark used to be enough to drive cus - past 18 months. caramel sauce, a caramel drizzle and a tomer engagement at coffee chains For coffee and espresso drinks, caramel- crunchy caramel sugar topping. across the country, but now the customer flavoured drinks in particular are on trend. Meanwhile, other new coffee-based wants it all — from better flavour options For example, last May, Tim Hortons rolled beverages from Canada’s biggest chains also Ato better pricing and sustainable product. out the Caramel Chocolate Brownie Iced satisfy a sweet tooth and a caffeine craving. Keep reading to find out exactly what’s Capp Supreme as a limited-time offering McDonald’s introduced two seasonal LTO winning their favour. (LTO); it was topped with a chocolate- McCafé mochas in the past year — pepper - flavoured whipped topping and brownie mint in November and raspberry in crumbles. In September, McDonald’s began January. At Starbucks, after a successful run SWEET, SALTY AND SAVOURY Decadently sweet beverages, balanced by offering caramel as an addition to its last summer, the Mocha Cookie Crumble savoury snacks and breakfast sandwiches, McCafé beverages and introduced a Frappuccino returned to stores in May. have dominated menu development at caramel hot chocolate and caramel mocha. Finally, Burger King made its entrance into

64 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM POURING FOR PROFITS the frozen-coffee-beverage market at the cheese, a folded egg and HP sauce on a a limited-time breakfast special this end of 2012, announcing the debut multigrain bagel. Starbucks added spring, featuring a six-inch Egg and of Frappes in two varieties, mocha Bavarian-style pretzels in asiago cheddar Cheese flatbread and a 12-ounce and caramel. and Stoneground Dijon varieties to its food coffee for $3. But, not all operators are selling indul - lineup in May. gent coffee variations — a few are focusing HEALTH, WELLNESS on espresso as a power shot and slightly BUNDLES OF BREAKFAST JOY AND WELFARE more health-conscious beverages. For Promotional pricing of coffee-and-break - As ingredient sourcing and example, Jugo Juice blends real banana and fast bundles continue to encourage regular sustainable agriculture contin - low-fat frozen yogurt with mocha iced cof - coffee customers to buy food or sample ue to gain attention from con - fee for its Banana Buzz Smoothie. new coffee beverages. At Tim Hortons, a sumers, healthful beverages are Meanwhile, operators have introduced limited-time promotion offered guests a also on the rise. As revealed in an assortment of portable savoury break - doughnut for 49 cents with the purchase of Technomic’s “2012 Canadian fast and snack selections to pair with these any coffee or hot beverage. And, Healthy Eating Consumer Trend sweet coffee treats. This spring, Tim McDonald’s rolled out a limited-time-offer Report,” consumers believe that Hortons added a Flatbread Breakfast combo of a small Premium Roast Coffee foods and beverages described as Panini, served on a whole-grain flatbread and a muffin for $1.39; customers were “natural” (69 per cent in agree - with a choice of seasoned egg or egg white, given Fruit & Maple Oatmeal for free with ment), “organic” (66 per cent), cheese, and sausage, hickory-smoked ham the purchase of any McCafé specialty cof - “local” (46 per cent), “sustainable” or hickory-smoked thick-cut bacon. fee. Just a few weeks later, for one week, (30 per cent) or “fair trade” (18 per And, Timmy’s and McDonald’s intro - Starbucks offered any breakfast sandwich cent) are at least slightly more duced new bagel sandwiches last year — for $2 with the purchase of any drink. healthful than those that are not. the former, a cheddar cheese bagel and the Even Subway, which has moved aggres - For example, a coffee purveyor’s latter featuring steak, sautéed onions, sively into the breakfast market, introduced cream or whole milk wouldn’t tradi - POURING FOR PROFITS tionally be associated with a healthful menu be sourced solely through the Tim Hortons McDonald’s has supported since 2011, pro - positioning, but today’s educated Coffee Partnership, an eight-year-old initia - vides Guatemalan farmers with technical consumers may be interested to know tive that aims to support coffee farmers in assistance on sustainable agriculture prac - whether the milk comes from locally raised Latin America. The Tim Hortons tices. grass-fed cows. Partnership Blend is now available at partic - It’s clear that as today’s consumer Sustainability is a hot-button issue for ipating Tim Hortons’ restaurants for $7.69 becomes increasingly demanding, coffee will coffee purveyors, too. In fact, 24 per cent of per 343-gram bag; and $1 from every pur - evolve further; those who keep on trend coffee and bakery café users surveyed for chase will revert to the partnership. with innovation and sustainable practices Technomic’s “Bakery and Coffee Café” For its part, in March, McDonald’s USA will be most primed for success. G report said they would be more likely to and McDonald’s Canada announced plans purchase — and willing to pay more for — to invest more than $6.5 million over four- Christine LaFave Grace is an associate editor items labelled sustainable. and-a-half years in a program to help 13,000 with Technomic Inc., a Chicago-based foodser - So, Tim Hortons is right on trend. In Central American farmers produce coffee vice consultancy and research firm. She can be May, the chain introduced the first coffee to more sustainably. The program, which reached at [email protected].

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MThe fOutureV of fIooNdseGrvice sFhonOe brRightlWy at thAe 20R13 ND RA Show BY JACKIE SLOAT -SPENCER ach spring, thousands of suppliers Derrek J. Hull, industry communications attendees also had access to 83 educational and operators gather in Chicago to and relations manager, NRA Show. seminars and presentations from big-name Eshowcase new wares and services The show’s hall was home to the chefs, such as Anthony Bourdain and while networking for four days at the annu - Alternative BiteStyle pavilion, dedicated to Chopped judge Maneet Chauhan. al National Restaurant Association products catering to various dietary restric - Meanwhile, the industry toasted out - Restaurant, Hotel-Motel Show (NRA Show), tions, such as gluten-free and low sodium standing operators at the second-annual now in its 94th year. This year, optimism diets. And, a National Foundation for Celiac Operator Innovations Awards, which recog - about the state of the industry and improv - Awareness booth was a resource for opera - nized Kennesaw State University as ing economy was palpable as more than tors interested in adding more special Innovator of the Year for its closed-loop 62,500 registrants from 100 countries, dietary options to their menus. Children’s waste-management program; the United flocked to The Windy City’s McCormick meals also took the spotlight, with products States’ Air Force for its food-transformation Place. such as gluten-free pancakes, powdered initiative and Ninety Nine Restaurants, for In addition to attracting 2,500 more peanut butter and fruit purée juices. New its food-allergy alert system, which mini - attendees than the previous year, the show smartphone-based technology, such as the mizes risk allergens via ordering, display sys - saw 10 per cent more registrations from the Ecoview: Energy Management System, was tems and tracking. lodging sector, and hosted more than 2,100 another draw. The app allows operators to Next year, the show is expected to grow exhibitors, including 68 Canadian suppliers, manage energy savings by controlling HVAC when organizers nearly double the size of its up from 46 last year. And, for the first time through their smartphone. companion International Wine, Spirits & since the recession, the show expanded into And, as operators turn their attention to Beer Event and move it to a bigger location a 57,550-sq.-ft. exhibition hall, packed with eco-conscious and socially responsible prac - within the exhibition. “We’re going to need a 433 exhibitors. “[The hall] had not [housed tices, Starbucks’ president and CEO, Howard bigger boat,” says Hull. In the meantime, the NRA Show] since the recession first Schultz, drew a crowd at the show with a check out what you missed at this year’s started, so it really [pointed] to the restau - special keynote speech on how to balance show, by perusing a list of product high - rant industry continuing that uptick,” raved the two trends while netting profit. Show lights on page 68. G

FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 67 NRA SHOW WRAP-UP

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flexibility to change the pan grammed blend cycles, an easy- 1. EASY BAKE 8. EVOLUTIONARY PLATING Equipex’s Sodir 16-inch pizza depth as required as the unit to-clean station and advanced Dudson’s new Granite pattern is ovens can bake fresh or frozen accommodates pans of various sound enclosure. now available as part of its pizzas in less than six minutes, depths, including six-inches, Evolution product line. The grey Blendtec using infrared quartz heating four-inches, 2.5 inches or 1.25 decoration gives it a stone-like, elements that reach 660°F. The inches. hand-made appearance with a 6. EASY APP oven has two different thermo - Electro Freeze’s quality manage - contemporary twist. What’s CookTek stats to regulate the inner baking ment smartphone app, Genni, more, the new pattern comple - chamber and to control the heat mobilizes the company’s new ments the Sand holloware line to 4. TREE OF LIFE under the brick deck stone for The Libbey Banquet Tree display Virtual Quality Management create a unique look. thin-crust or thick-crust pizzas. system is a versatile banquet sys - System in its Genesis Series Soft- Dudson Ltd. tem with square or rectangular Serve Freezer line. Using the Equipex plate holders and plates. It fea - app, operators can make prod - 9. COFFEE TIME tures a 28-inch centre pillar for uct quality adjustments, track The Melitta c35 serves coffee- 2. MARKETING MESSAGE The Ad-a-Glance Creation displaying flowers or signage, product volume dispensed and shop-quality espresso, cappucci - Station helps restaurant owners and the accompanying plate clean-cycle indications, as well no, latte and Americano bever - create customized displays for holders can be customized and as obtain statistical reports. ages, and it can be individually Tork Xpressnap dispenser sys - positioned around the pillar for programmed to create signature Electro Freeze tems. The add-on lets customers presentation flexibility, includ - beverages. With powerful and design a marketing message that ing 45-degree angles. precise grinders and alloy steel 7. PIZZA PURVEYOR can be attached to the dispenser. The Turbochef HhC 2020 rapid- burrs, the machine has long a Libbey Foodservice Ad-a-Glance includes a website cook oven can cook up to 60 12- service life with up to 80,000 program to design the message inch pizzas in an hour. Certified grinds. 5. STEALTH BLENDING and perforated card stock to The new Stealth blender by for ventless operation, the 2020 Melitta SystemService USA, print the message. Blendtec is so quiet, it can be features a compact 20-inch Inc. used in environments where low design and offers eight cus - SCA Tissue North America noise is critical. With an illumi - tomizable cooking profiles. It nated touch-control surface and also features a stackable design 3. HOLD ’EM UP The CookTek Adjustable speed slider, operators can fine- up to three ovens high, and has SinAqua Waterless Induction tune motor control and create multiple belt configuration Food Holding Well unit elimi - customizable blend cycles. Other options, including single, 50/50, nates water without compromis - features include a 15-amp motor, 70/30 or 65/35. ing food quality. And, there is blue LED display, 42 pre-pro - TurboChef 68 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM C C C Page 1 PRODUCT SHOWCASE GOOD! BETTER!! BEST!!!

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A FORCE Emma Cardarelli commands respect aOs chFef a nNd coA-owTnerU of MRontrE eal’s Nora Gray restaurant

BY ADRIAN BELL

mma Cardarelli has witnessed an evolution in professional of Cardarelli’s training was a trip to France for an unpaid stage. Staging kitchens. “There’s been a massive change. The first kitchens I in the Loire Valley was an invaluable experience, says the Montrealer. “I Eworked in were very sexist,” says the chef and owner of worked in a small town near Tours called Amboise. It’s in the middle of Montreal’s Nora Gray restaurant. “All the jokes were dirty, gross, castle country — castles everywhere — it was awesome.” derogatory things about women.” Fast forward to today and Cardarelli co-owns Nora Gray with two The chef, who’s been cooking since graduating university with a partners. The restaurant seats 45 and features a simple homestyle BA, takes comfort in knowing women in today’s kitchens aren’t derid - southern Italian menu. “I don’t like to overcomplicate things, so my ed the way she was. “Standing up, being a feminist — I was ridiculed. food is very simple. I don’t like too much manipulation,” she says, I have no problem saying I’m a feminist, but it’s a dirty word in the describing her technique. “It’s not about the newest, the fanciest, the kitchen to say that, or [it] was when I was starting out.” most complicated or how many organ meats are in one dish; I’m not The English and psychology major entered the ruthless culinary about layering too much stuff.” Cardarelli’s menu, which changes world by fluke. “My marks were nothing to write home about, so I every six weeks, features Quebec snow crab with fresh fava beans took a summer job to see what cooking was like,” she says. Her first gig ($16); Pacific Halibut agrodolce ($35); and Orecchiette with crispy at Lake O’Hara Lodge in Lake Louise, Alta. — where she excelled at headcheese and rapini leaves ($13/$25). P bread and pastry — is where she “fell in love” with the culinary world. Of course, like many chefs, a hectic schedule makes it difficult to H O T Bice, a heritage Montreal restaurant, was the then aspiring chef’s next carve out a life outside the kitchen. “I’m single — I’m married to my O G R A

stop and next source of inspiration. “They have a very serious pastry sec - job,” admits the 35-year-old. “I’ve been locked in a kitchen for years, P H Y tion, so, as pâtissière, I learned amazing stuff,” says Cardarelli. From so I’ve literally just gone on dates,” Cardarelli laughs. B Y

M there, her persistence paid off, and she landed a job at Globe — the resto And, finding a mate who understands the rigours of the kitchen is A R G A

where David McMillan and Fred Morin, current owners of Montreal’s another challenge. “That’s one of the biggest problems for me right R E T

Joe Beef, started out. “That’s where I met Fred, and he became my men - now; finding somebody who understands I’m not going to be around M U L L

tor. I bugged him for months before he had a position available for me,” for dinner all the time or [for] social occasions on weekends. That’s I G A laughs Cardarelli. “He really took me under his wing.” But the pinnacle the biggest negotiator.” G N

BITS & BITES Favourite Culinary heroes: comfort food: “I grew up watching “Vegetarian chili.”

Jacques Pepin, and 

I really admire Daniel 

Boulud as well —  and , Alice Waters she was a “Spring.  visionary.” Favourite season: Favourite It’s my favourite time of year right kitchen tool: now for food.” “A Cavatelli 72 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY JULY/AUGUST 2013 machine.” FOODSERVICEWORLD.COM

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Rose Packing Company | 65 South Barrington Road | Barrington, IL 60010 | ph (847) 3815700 | Toll Free (800) 3237363

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