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by Donald E. Pszczola

More Fuel for the Sweet and Savory Fire

sensations are blurring that they become so exciting in the formulation. Does that caramel have a salty taste? Is that ginger I detect? Or pink grapefruit with a spicy kick? With all of the different taste sensations possible, the five basic tastes remind me of the Chicago seasons. While we technically have four seasons (winter, spring, summer, and fall), in reality, every month is a separate season—a combination of the previous month’s weather and the next month’s. And with these 12 seasons—some of them changing in a matter of days or even hours—living in Chicago may be unpredictable, but it sure is exciting. And the same thing holds true for food formulating with the taste groups. (I might add that it is only fitting that “the Windy City” is the home of so many different ethnic Here’s some tasty mathematics for you. Take a strip of plus a sweet and creamy and you get a… Well, I’ll let you finish the sweet-savory equation. As this form of new math proves, anything goes in today’s cuisines.) food formulating computations. Photos ©iStockphoto.com/busypix (left) and nazarethman (right) For consumers who can’t really choose between sweet and salty, more products are appearing in the mar- he sensation of taste can be categorized into five ketplace that can satisfy both moods. For example, Mars basic groups—sweet, salty, sour, bitter, and North America recently launched its M&M’s® Tumami—with the tongue identifying each type in a Brand Snack Mix, which can satisfy consumers’ desire for distinct way. And keep in mind that it was not really that a creamy-crunchy-sweet-and-salty snack all in one bag. long ago that taste was perceived four ways with the The product is available in three options: M&M’s Brand somewhat mysterious umami the most recent addition to Milk Chocolate Candies Snack Mix (M&M’s Brand Milk that club known as the Basic Tastes. Chocolate Candies, mini chocolate chip cookies, peanuts, However, even with the addition of umami, I would and mini pretzel twists), M&M’s Brand Dark Chocolate argue that this group is actually much larger if we were to Candies Snack Mix (M&M’s Brand Dark Chocolate consider all the taste pairings that are possible, especially Candies, raisins, almonds, and mini pretzel twists), and the sweet and savory ones, as this article will address. Or M&M’s Brand Peanut Chocolate Candies Snack Mix if we wish to simplify matters, we might (perhaps with a (M&M’s Brand Peanut Chocolate Candies, mini shortbread Sweet and savory pairings provide new inspiration, helping formulators to escape the confines of traditional rules and pursue new roads in terms of flavor, texture, and the creation of healthier foods.

little tongue in cheek) call this group “swavory.” That cookies, almonds, and mini pretzel twists). might open the door to other interesting namings as well. recently launched a “bacon ” for However, the real point here is that I think it is essential the summer; it’s made up of ice cream, chocolate that we focus on these pairings if we are to fully compre- syrup, caramel, bacon crumbles, and a piece of bacon. hend the realm of today’s food formulating, which is so The shows another way that bacon can be com- influenced by different global tastes that are evolving into bined with ingredients such as chocolate, caramel, or fruit the mainstream. to provide a formulation with a sweet-savory sensation. It would be an understatement to say that when sweet Furthermore, bacon’s smoky saltiness can help enhance and savory tastes are combined or doubled up, they make the sweetness and flavor of ingredients such as choco- for a dimension of flavor like no other. And it is precisely late. The and the role of bacon in the because the borders between the different taste creation of sweet-savory formulations is the topic for a pg 50 09.12 • www.ift.org [INGREDIENTS]

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recent blog post (see below). cheeses, and as a marinade or glaze Calif. (phone 650-824-6395, www. Products such as sweet and for steak, chicken, salmon, pork, or blueberry.org), chutneys, barbecue savory snack mixes and bacon sun- turkey. And, yes, these special jellies sauces, salsas, and dressings pro- daes are only the tip of the iceberg as can even help spice up a peanut but- vide interesting opportunities for the potential of sweet-savory combi- ter sandwich. Yogurt products can product development with blueber- nations continues to grow, especially incorporate sweet and savory combi- ries. I think this has been true for in restaurants and specialty stores or nations such as salted caramel, while awhile now, which, if anything, is a as the subject of food blogs from a tequila cocktail can fuse mango tribute to the versatility of this little around the world. Imagine the dis- and chile. blue-colored berry that provides so tinctive blend of Dijon , Some of the flavors that we will many functionality and nutritional horseradish, and garlic in Grey be looking at in this article, such as benefits. Especially successful is the Poupon Bistro Sauce with orange salted caramel or bacon, have really contrasting heat of various peppers marmalade, orange zest, ginger root, exploded onto the scene in recent with blueberries—the ground ancho and chervil leaves added to create a times. Other ingredients have had a chilies and seranos in a duck breast sauce with a different kind of sensa- longer relationship with an opposite dish; the blueberry-jalapeno lime tion. Jellies (usually perceived as a partner in the revolving wheel of salad dressing; and a red pepper- sweet condiment) can be made with taste sensations. Blueberries—and blueberry condiment for steak. When figs, guavas, or passion fruits that are their sweetness in savory formula- it comes to sauces, blueberries form then paired with a blend of hot pep- tions—would probably be a good synergies with cayenne, garlic, mus- pers to provide sweet heat to example of this. As noted by the U.S. tard, tamarind, wasabi, mint, and hamburgers, hot dogs, meatloaf, Highbush Blueberry Council, Folsom, many others. Cookies with a sly

IngredienTalk: front that caught my attention. Most signs the store. They were carrying large signs in front of ice cream shops usually show a that said, “Pigs go home. Leave ice cream Sweet and savory combinations have smiling cow—after all, what better symbol alone.” Or “Save your bacon. Stay where become very popular in the marketplace. At for ice cream than that particular animal. you belong.” Or “It’s the end of the world. one time, bacon would have been found with But this one depicted the face of a pig. I Stop your bacon blaspheming.” your eggs, but today it can be found in sweet probably would have mistaken this place to I looked nervously at the cows. One of applications such as ice cream. One of the be some kind of sausage store if I hadn’t them threw their cud at the window. most recent examples of this is Burger King’s seen the words “Oinks—Best Bacon Ice “Oh, don’t mind them,” said the owner. “bacon sundae.” But when you think about Cream Around.” Curious, I decided to go in. “That’s what happens when they’re out to it, is bacon’s expanding use really that A little bell squealed as I entered, and pasture too long.” Then he turned to the unusual—the stuff that only dreams are once inside I saw a variety of ice cream cows. “Go get jobs, you bovines.” made of? I don’t think so. Bacon’s ability to and frozen dessert products that looked I figured when the pigs showed up, put new twists on traditional applications is familiar and yet seemed different. (How there might be trouble so I quickly ordered the subject of this month’s blog, which fits like a dream.) For example, I came across a one of the bacon-ice cream products and appropriately within the context of the “pigsicle”—a strip of bacon that was was about to sample it when my alarm September Ingredients article on sweet and encased in a frozen ice on a stick. Then I clock went off, proving that it was all savory combinations. And bacon is not the saw something called “baconana.” This indeed just a dream. only savory ingredient that pairs well with a product was a frozen banana covered in I remembered thinking as I showered sweet partner. And vice versa, I might add. If chocolate studded with bacon pieces. that morning, I suppose there was a you have thoughts, dreams, or visions on There were many other products in this chance that some of these products might how to further promote a sweet-savory sen- store such as a scoop of ice cream reach the marketplace. I mean when pigs sation in food formulating—and you’re an wrapped in bacon in place of a waffle fly. I laughed a little sarcastically and put IFT member—visit www.ift.org, type in your cone. Or a milk shake with pieces of bacon the dream behind me. name and password, click on the IFT floating inside. (Didn’t the bacon get That afternoon, I had a taste for a Community button, and go to the blog sec- soggy?) Or a with bacon shav- Whopper with Cheese and Bacon so I went tion. You’ll find that sweet-savory is a ings on top. There was also a vat of vanilla to Burger King. Imagine my surprise—or partnership that works! ice cream below a sign that read: “Flavor was it horror?—when I saw being adver- of the Month—Bacon.” Someone sure had tised there, a bacon sundae, made up of a sense of humor here. I mean what wasn’t , chocolate syrup, cara- Pigging Out on Ice Cream bacon? mel, and bacon crumbles and a piece of I was about to sample a product when I bacon. At first, I thought I was still dream- The other night I had a dream. I was pass- heard cows mooing angrily, and through ing—I mean dreams can play those kinds ing by an that had a sign in the window, I saw them picketing outside of mental games with you, making you pg 52 09.12 • www.ift.org savory side can pair a traditional alternatives, ranging from stevia ingredient such as the blueberry to monk fruit, are finding their with caramelized garlic, thyme, way into a variety of products, salted pistachio, and aji chile and the sweetness they provide peppers. In addition to blueber- may find its way into the creation ries, another early example of of sweet and savory combos. the sweet-savory partnering Likewise, a wide range of salt probably would be the combining replacers and technologies may of chocolate and spices to create satisfy the savory end of these mole. Actually, this partnership taste duos. had its roots way back in the time Sweet and savory pairings of the Aztecs. So you might say provide new inspiration, helping that the modern formulator still formulators to escape the con- has a few things to learn about fines of traditional rules and sweet and savory duos. pursue new roads in terms of Interestingly, recent ingredi- flavor, texture, and the creating ent developments may also help of healthier foods. There are feed the fire of sweet and savory many reasons, I think, why sweet combos in the marketplace. As and savory is so popular now, we have seen in recent years, and any discussion will include many new sweetener the number of different kinds of question what is reality. I was cookie or an ice cream? I going to ask one of the workers wouldn’t have been that to pinch me, but I figured she shocked to see a bacon-fla- might get the wrong idea. The vored dog biscuit—everybody slogan, “Have it Your Way,” loves bacon, including our four- probably can be taken only so legged friends (well, maybe not far, and she might even “crown” disgruntled cows), but that me in a way that I wouldn’t like. approach clearly has extended Besides, I didn’t see any cows to sweet human foods as well. picketing, and so I figured that And there’s no need to ask this must really be happening. Freud why. Combining bacon After a minute or two (the with ingredients such as choco- time it takes to get your fries late, caramel, or fruit can fresh), I began to realize that I provide a formulation with a shouldn’t really be that sur- sweet-savory sensation. prised. I mean this “bacon Furthermore, bacon’s smoky sundae” was just another sign saltiness can help enhance the of the growing presence of sweetness and flavor of ingre- bacon in non-savory applica- dients such as chocolate. tions. Think about it. Today, The use of bacon can also bacon can be found in choco- serve another purpose—it can late, cookies, maple bacon help put a new twist on ice pudding, butter blends, waffles cream. When you think about it, with jalapeno bacon, bacon- ice cream has a pretty basic wrapped plums, pancake and ingredient listing. In addition to bacon cupcakes, and, of course, milk solids and milkfat, a for- now in ice cream at Burger mula can contain components King. So anything is possible. It such as sweeteners, flavorings, made me realize that reality can emulsifiers, and stabilizers. In be stranger than any dream you the cold light of standard of iden- come up with today. I mean, a tity, it all sounds pretty simple, few years ago, who would ever and one might not expect a imagine a bacon flavor in a great deal of innovation in this »»

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benefits they offer to today’s food formulator, caramel mochas as well as salted caramel ranging from salt reduction strategies to squares. stimulating the consumption of vegetables to When I wrote about new developments in satisfying consumers’ desire for adventure. ice cream (see the March 2012 Ingredients This article will look at a variety of sweet and section), references to salted caramel came savory prototypes, the ingredients that are up several times. For example, when the Ice used in them, and the opportunities that they Cream Technology Conference of the are creating in the marketplace to further International Dairy Foods Association hon- stimulate the sweet and savory trend. Or ored the top frozen dessert innovations in the should I say provide more fuel for the sweet dairy industry for 2011, Salted Caramel and savory fire? Chocolate Pretzel ice cream, developed by SensoryEffects Flavor Systems (www.senso- Salty Caramel Grows in Popularity ryeffects.com), was selected as the most When Bell Flavors & Fragrances Inc., innovative prototype flavor. The salty sweet Northbrook, Ill. (phone 847-291-8300, www. treat consisted of a combination of dark bellff.com), released its report of the top 10 chocolate flakes and textured swirls of salty flavor trends for 2012, salted caramel topped pretzel variegate, added to caramel ice cream that list, with the company predicting that in a natural dulce de leche base and egg cus- this sweet-salty combination would have the tard base. The article also mentioned that biggest impact on the food and beverage Ben & Jerry’s recently introduced a vanilla industry. And it certainly seems that this pre- ice cream with salted caramel swirl and diction held true, as its growing popularity fudge-covered potato chip clusters, and could easily be seen in restaurants and retail Kerry Ingredients & Flavors, Beloit, Wis. stores. Take Starbucks, which offers salted (phone 608-363-1200, www.kerry.com),

IngredienTalk: (continued)

category. But ice cream (and other frozen Consumption of four of these ) keeps evolving—frequently tak- would be the equivalent of all the calories ing nontraditional directions as it reinvents you would be allowed in a day. In an age of itself to provide new opportunities in flavor, obesity (and related problems such as dia- texture, stability, and health. Bacon then betes and heart disease), I’m not sure this can be one way to reinvent this product. is the kind of product you would want to There are many other ways as well. In tout. However, there is always the possibil- Germany, Wild Flavors developed an inno- ity that these health reasons could prompt vative concept that provides a new taste the use of some innovative ingredients to sensation through the combination of a reinvent the bacon sundae. For example, creamy ice cream and a liquid core. you can use bacon-flavored ice cream According to the company, “a change in instead of strips of bacon. Or you can the freezing point keeps the filling in the develop a similar product with new sweet- core liquid, while the outer shell is frozen.” ener blends that can help reduce the The filling, which is more liquid than a tra- amount of sugar. ditional topping, has a viscosity Anyway, if you do this, you can have comparable to honey. The liquid core, or such a product in a more healthy way. In center filling, is available in brown and fact, it might be a good idea for Burger King fruity preparations. (Now all they have to to amend its “Have It Your Way” to “Have It do is add bacon to the formula.) in a Healthy Way.” Otherwise, this may not So, when you think about it, is the use of be the kind of ice cream you want the bacon in ice cream really that crazy after all? masses to pig out on. There is one aspect of Burger King’s Oh, by the way, did I mention that BK “bacon sundae” that is somewhat trou- might also have a chili cheeseburger ice bling, especially if you think in terms of cream sundae as well? health. The new dessert has 510 calories, If you have any thoughts on bacon and 18 grams of fat, and 61 grams of sugar. ice cream as a sweet and savory combina- (That is enough to give you a case of the tion—and you’re not afraid of picketing cold sweats in the middle of the night.) cows, let’s IngredienTalk. pg 54 09.12 • www.ift.org [INGREDIENTS]

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syrup) and the type of fat (butter, described (or should I say “carmel- margarine, or vegetable fat) used. ized”?) her latest food Caramel is one of the most popular obsession—sweet, salty caramel. In flavors in the U.S. market. To put this her article, “My Love Affair with into context, since 2006 approxi- Salted Caramel,” she noted that mately 31,000 new food and “salted caramel is the class A drug of beverage products have been the confectionery world.” Here is an launched in the U.S. Of these, more interesting excerpt from the piece: than 1,045 (around 3.3%) are flavored “And this salted caramel thing has with caramel. The vast majority of lasted … The history books have yet these are confectionery—others are to be written, but all evidence points hot drinks, baked goods, cereals, ice to the birth of salted caramel as creams, and savory snacks. being in late Seventies Brittany … At Sweet and savory combinations can provide a fresh perspective that balances modern tastes with cultural authenticity, as demonstrated by these Korean BBQ wings. Or Now imagine taking this popular this stage, salted caramel existed these combos can help make eating veggies a more exciting experience. Take sweet flavor and adding a new dimension to predominantly as a piece of confec- squash combined with red curry. it by giving it a salty taste. In the July tionery. But fast forward a decade, Photos courtesy of McCormick & Co. Inc. 2012 Ingredients section, I wrote and Pierre Herme, the French patis- about how a condiment such as but- sier known as “The Picasso of highlighted a prototype ice cream, ter can be infused with different Pastry,” had created the salted cara- Salty Caramel Toffee (brown sugar flavors to provide a new twist to a mel macaroon and there has been a base blended with swirls of salty traditional product. Like these sticky drip-by-drip of salted caramel caramel variegate and toffee candy). twisted butters in the marketplace, ever since.” She described salted PreGel America, Concord, N.C., salted caramel may achieve that caramel that she experienced in a recently introduced a new beverage same kind of end. The current popu- liquid-centered, wafer-thin choco- concept, Cafettone™, a creamy con- larity of salted caramel suggests how late from L’Artisan du Chocolat as “a coction made with Salted Caramel popular a sweet and salty combina- fierce golden trickle of a substance and a shot of espresso . The tion can be in the marketplace. at once sweet, smoky, salty, and shelf-stable, instant ready-to-use Furthermore, we know what hap- utterly, indescribably beguiling.” powdered mixes require only the pens when a salty taste is added to Who am I to argue? addition of water or milk. (Sugar, fla- caramel, but how about a spicy one? vor, stabilizers, and emulsifiers are Not too long ago, Chicago-based What Sweet and Savory already blended into the mixes to Dishoom Foods Inc., a specialty/eth- Combos Can Do For You ensure consistency while maintain- nic food manufacturer and Two new flavors to thePerfect Pinch ing the highest quality standards in wholesaler of snacks and foods, Salt-Free Seasoning Blend line from taste and texture.) launched Cobra Corn®, a popcorn McCormick & Co. Inc., Hunt Valley, What makes salted caramel so seasoned with Mumbai Masala Md. (phone 410-771-7301, www. popular? According to a report, (Bombay Spice), a special blend of 10 mccormick.com), provide sweet and Success with Caramel Flavors: An “mouth-watering” Indian spices and savory combinations that can add a Essential Guide for Product seasonings. Now the company is new and more flavorful dimension to Developers, released by Synergy adding a new popcorn snack to the salt-free products. Fiesta Citrus is Flavors Inc., Wauconda, Ill. (phone family. The snack has the flavors of described as a vibrant blend of 847-487-1011, www.synergytaste. caramel, cardamom, and ginger, brown sugar, garlic, cumin, chili pep- com), caramel is one of the most ver- which will incorporate the popular per, lime, and lemon. Southwest satile and widely used confectionery tastes of Indian chai tea on every Sweet ‘n’ Smoky consists of a tangy products. Typically, caramel confec- crunchy kernel. Also, to further stim- bold blend of brown sugar, smoked tionery has a special sweet taste and ulate creativity, this snack can be paprika, chipotle chili pepper, and an appealing brown color. The basic added as an inclusion or topping to tomato. formula is a cooked solution of sugar, chocolate ice creams, soups, salads, Earlier in the year, McCormick’s corn syrup, milk solids, and fat. The , potato salad, and Flavor Forecast 2012 featured (not too relative ratios of these ingredients other products. It can also be used as surprisingly) a variety of savory- and how they are processed deter- an alternative to croutons. sweet combinations, reinforcing the mines the consistency, texture, and And in a kind of a bizarre finish to growing popularity of this trend. For taste of the finished product. this story, British food writer Nigella example, the use of sweet and savory Caramel has a wide range of Lawson allowed herself to be slath- pairings is one way that chefs are properties depending on the type of ered in a salted caramel sauce for a celebrating the heritage of cuisine, sugar (white, brown, cane, or corn cover of Stylist magazine. Lawson honoring its traditional ingredients pg 56 09.12 • www.ift.org [INGREDIENTS]

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and techniques. These combinations The use of sweet and savory fla- and fennel). Possible dishes might can preserve these roots by applying vors can make eating your veggies a include Squash Ribbon Salad with a fresh perspective that balances more exciting experience, allowing Red Curry Vinaigrette and Curried modern tastes and cultural vegetables to shine through in ways Butternut Squash with , authenticity. previously not thought of. Eggplant, Leeks, and Toasted Squash Seeds. Take this BBQ with a global for instance, can replace meat in “Culinary trailblazers are cooking twist—Korean Pepper Paste (with dishes because of its substantial outside the lines by discovering, rein- sesame, Asian pear, and garlic) that texture and hearty flavor. When venting, and even playing with food,” provides a combination of sweet, paired, sweet honey and the fiery noted the McCormick report. “We savory, sour, and bitter. Korean North African condiment, harissa, now have the freedom to explore and Pepper Paste—made from chile can add a special intensity, elevating enjoy whatever foods we want, powder, glutinous rice powder, fer- eggplant to a starring role in many whenever we want.” The use of mented soy beans, and salt—has international cuisines. Honey- sweet and savory flavors can offer a been used to flavor stews, soups, and Harissa Sauce can add a vibrant “no boundaries approach” where marinades, or as a condiment at the color and bold flavor. Potential dishes anything goes. Take sweet soy with table. In one Korean barbecue recipe, might include Eggplant & Goat tamarind and black pepper for a Galbi, thinly sliced beef short ribs are Cheese Torte with Honey-Harissa steak sauce with an Asian flair. wrapped in jicama (a sweet root veg- Sauce or Roasted Eggplant Bisque Sweet soy—a flavoring in its native etable that looks like a turnip) and with Honey-Harissa Sauce and Indonesia—is a savory-sweet, topped with refreshing Asian pear Parmesan Crisps. Or how about molasses-like sauce (also known as slaw (soy sauce, honey, rice vinegar, sweet-fleshed squash combined with kecap manis). Together with black sesame oil, crystallized ginger, cin- red curry and savory pancetta pepper and tamarind, these ingredi- namon, and Asian pear) for a creative (unsmoked cured in salt ents can help bend the boundaries take on tacos. and spices such as nutmeg, pepper, and bring new inspiration to a

pg 58 09.12 • www.ift.org condiment culture. A classic breakfast combo of sweet-and-savory combinations, ranging from steak and eggs can be elevated out of the ordinary savory cupcake hors d’oeuvres to vanilla by a drizzle of steak sauce made from sweet soy marinades. sauce and tamarind paste. Or sweet soy, tamarind The traditional perception of a cupcake is that paste, and chile sauce is another way to add excite- of a sugary sweet confection, observed David ment to those veggies, as demonstrated by Tofu, Michael, but not all cupcakes require a sweet tooth. Butternut Squash, and Brussels Sprout Skewers. “The long, winding road of the cupcake trend has In this collision of influences, the all-American blueberry meets a staple of Mexican cooking (corn masa) and India’s versatile spice (cardamom), tran- scending meal times and regional borders. Arepas are lightly fried cornmeal rounds served throughout Latin America in both sweet and savory dishes. In Spiced Duck Arepas with Blueberry Port Sauce, Arepas are topped with sliced duck breast and a blueberry and Port Sauce. Blueberry-cardamom flavor can add exotic sweetness to atole, Mexico’s traditional warm masa beverage. Or try a dessert tamale (made with authentic tamale flavor) with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a drizzle of blue- berry-cardamom sauce. Today, culinary explorers are seeking out com- binations that can create powerful, harmonic bursts of elemental flavors for the ultimate taste experience. Sweet and savory is one way of doing this. The cooling blend of cucumber and melon gets an invigorating kick from lively dill and mint. The combination of dill and mint adds both an expected savory backbone and a subtle herbal sweetness, according to the report. Imagine these two unusual formulations: Dill-Mint Ice Cubes and Cucumber- Herb Gazpacho with Watermelon Croutons. Sometimes the most memorable food is often the simplest. Cooks are focusing on highlighting quality ingredients without complex presentations. Sweet and savory combinations can play a role here as well. When vanilla is paired with the creamy richness of butter, the duo elevates baked goods. But new savory applications are bringing the pair- ing to the forefront, with prototypes such as Vanilla-Butter Shrimp Rolls and Gnocchi in Vanilla Brown Butter Sauce with Baby Spinach and Toasted Hazelnuts. Swapping spices and herbs for salt and fat can result in flavors that are vibrant enough to stand on their own. Take the pairing of red tea with cinnamon and plum to create Roasted Pork Tenderloin with Cinnamon-Plum Stuffing. The sweet and savory stuffing of plums and sausage gets its deep, earthy aroma from steeped red tea and cinnamon, a per- fect counterpoint to roasted pork tenderloin.

Not All Cupcakes Require a Sweet Tooth At its 2012 Innovation Roadshow, David Michael & Co., Philadelphia, Pa. (phone 215-632-3100, www. dmflavors.com), highlighted several

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hors d’oeuvres lend themselves to note to the initial flavor and is then other savory possibilities, some of balanced with the plum-herb them incorporating sweet ingredients. combination. These might include pork and beans Aside from meat, vanilla is suit- with applesauce (there’s a sweet able in a variety of other savory ingredient), pizza with a topping (it dishes, including sauces, dips, comes to my mind that this topping spreads, and dressings. could be a fruit sauce such as blue- berry), seafood macaroni and cheese, Shaping Directions of Sweet and Savory the traditional BLT, and meatloaf with “Sweet and savory combinations . Or how about meatloaf with a seem to be popping up all over menus sweet potato frosting? of many restaurant formats,” noted Putting aside the cupcakes for a Jessica R. Jones-Dille, Associate moment (a difficult thing to do), David Director of Marketing for Wild Michael also featured vanilla mari- Flavors Inc., Erlanger, Ky. (phone 859- nades. Vanilla is arguably the world’s 342-3548, www.wildflavors.com). favorite flavor, yet it is rarely, if ever, “This version of ‘flavor fusion’ or thought of when it comes to the main ‘crossover flavors’ is also becoming course. Challenged by this notion, popular on store shelves. Fruit fla- David Michael took a look at vanilla vors and ingredients are often as part of the flavor experience to infused in traditional savory salad determine which vanilla variety best dressings, sauces, and meat mari- Today’s sweet-and-savory combinations can range from savory cupcake hors d’oeuvres to vanilla marinades for meat products. And with these possible complements a specific meat protein nades, while we see spices, herbs, combinations, the traditional perceptions of cupcakes and marinades are and why. With a marinade as the peppers, and even meats such as changing as well. Photo courtesy of David Michael & Co. experimental vehicle, coupled with bacon popping up in confections.” an accompanying flavor combination, Wild Flavors is no stranger to been paved with many different the company tested the contribution developing sweet/savory combina- stones—wedding cup ‘cakes,’ cock- of an array of different vanillas to tions. Some examples of their work tail-inspired flavors, miniature, uncover which works best. In work- include Blackberry BBQ Beef, Ginger super-expensive adornments, glu- ing with chicken breast, the company Plum Green Tea Vinaigrette, Georgia ten-free, and vegan among them,” selected a vanilla ginger-lime mari- Peach BBQ Sauce, Cider Molasses said Victoria Vayneberger, Marketing nade. “The sweetness and tenacity Vinaigrette, Apple Pear Honey and Consumer Insights Manager at of the Tahitian vanilla flavor profile in Mustard, Red Wine Peppercorn David Michael. “There’s no doubt this marinade brings out the subtle Chocolate Truffles, Orange Basil about it, the beloved miniature treat nuances of the chicken,” said Rooibos Tea, Passionfruit Chile Soda, is pliable in its acceptance of twists Vayneberger. The use of Supreme®, and Dark Chocolate Vinaigrette. The and spins.” David Michael’s cost-effective photo with this section shows the To demonstrate this, the company vanilla extract, fills in the back notes, Dark Chocolate Vinaigrette, which featured mini cupcake hors helps to maintain the vanilla charac- has a sweet-savory perception as it d’oeuvres, as an embodiment of the ter, and marries the ginger-lime into is a traditional vinaigrette with a dark savory take on the beloved cupcake. one continuous taste experience, she chocolate flavor blended in. Because Technically, these prototypes are added. of the fruit the salad contains, as well made with savory flavors, but In a similar fashion, the company as the sweeter dressing itself, the because they are incorporated into also tackled pork tenderloin to deter- prototype is a perfect example of the an application that is perceived as mine which vanilla flavor combination marriage of sweet and savory. The traditionally sweet, I thought it brings out the best flavor in the pro- vegetables in the salad, along with appropriate to include it in this article tein of pork products. The company the vinaigrette backbone, provide the about sweet and savory combina- chose a vanilla plum-herb marinade savory characteristic. tions. For instance, the company as an option for pork. In this mari- At the 2012 IFT Food Expo, the married traditionally savory flavors nade, Supreme is the backbone of the company highlighted a range of mini- with a complementary “frosting” vanilla flavor, enhancing the charac- sandwiches that featured sweet and pairing: savory chicken cupcake with teristics of the pork while still savory flavors. These included cheddar rosemary frosting, crab cup- allowing the vanilla to come through Sundried Tomato & Lemon Marinated cake with tomato herb frosting, and from the onset of the flavor experi- Chicken with Parmesan Garlic Aioli on filet mignon and fried onion cupcake ence. A more delicate bourbon Mediterranean Roll, Smoked Paprika with bacon frosting. These cupcake vanilla was used, which lends its top & Stout Turkey Breast with Apple pg 60 09.12 • www.ift.org Honey Mustard on Pumpernickel Roll, and sophisticated flavors have and Shredded Pork with Georgia increased in popularity, there has Peach BBQ Sauce and Cider been an increase in floral flavor Molasses Glazed Onions on Poppy trends as well,” said Jones-Dille. Seed Bun. “Wild sees this trend as an opportu- Because of the continuing popu- nity to develop products with floral larity of floral flavors, it would be components married with an array of interesting to speculate whether complementary fruit and spice fla- these flavors might also partner with vors. When floral flavors are joined sweet and savory combinations, pro- with traditional flavors and ingredi- viding further dimension to this trend. ents such as spices and herbs, For example, imagine a rose-flavored products may gain additional health salted caramel. Or a chocolate tea benefits for consumers.” A three- beverage with the scent of hibiscus some of floral flavors, sweet flavors, or orange blossom. It certainly seems and spice flavors could easily within the realm of possibility. Wild develop in such formulations as teas, Flavors has created a variety of floral functional drinks, energy drinks, flavor developments—jasmine, lav- juices, waters, carbonated soft This dark chocolate vinaigrette is a perfect marriage of sweet and savory. The ender, cherry blossom, orange drinks, confections, desserts, and, of traditional vinaigrette has a dark chocolate flavor blended into it, giving it a sweeter blossom, chamomile, mimosa, iris, course, culinary applications. characteristic with a savory backbone. Sweet fruits and savory vegetables in the rose, hibiscus, and chrysanthemum. Also available from the Wild port- salad add to the sweet-savory perception. Photo courtesy of Wild Flavors “Previously, marketing of botanicals folio are meat marinades for pork, as a primary flavor contributor was chicken, and steak made with flavor combine herbs, fruits, and vegeta- somewhat niche. As ethnic, fresh, systems (Farmstand Favorites™) that bles. In short, these are flavor

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smile I detect in his voice?) inclusion with much lower sodium In a recent interview with Food content than the actual thing. Technology, Roesken shared his Furthermore, it has no trans fat, and thoughts on the sweet-savory trend the intensity of the flavor can be and his company’s participation in manipulated, Roesken explained. developing ingredients that meet this “And in baking, we are seeing a trend. big shift toward herbs and spices,” The reason that sweet and savory he continued. “In conjunction with combinations are finding their way the rapid growth that the artisan into a variety of segments is the bread market has seen over the past result of a convergence of multiple 10 years, herbs and spices are finding food, societal, and demographic their way beyond bread to chips, trends, he noted. Americans are nutrition bars, and even cakes.” This becoming more adventurous in their emergence of spices should have a eating. They are embracing ethnic major impact on the further creation Caramel rolls—a sweet systems that incorporate sweet and foods more than ever before and of sweet-savory combinations. application—has a savory ingredients. Creating flavors realizing that they enjoy flavors out- dimension added to it by reminiscent of the country farm side of their time-tested comfort Jazzing Things Up encapsulated sea salt. Photo courtesy of QualiTech stand, prototypes include Peppery zone. Additionally and not entirely “Sweet and savory is the current Peach Pork, Honeyed Pear & Thyme unrelated, the “foodie” community trend in flavors these days,” stated Chicken, Blackberry BBQ Flank Steak, has taken a cue from the celebrity Catherine Armstrong, Vice President Nectarine Salsa, Autumn Apple chefs and is embracing new and of Corporate Communications at Rosemary, and others. unexpected flavor profiles, such as Comax Flavors, Melville, N.Y. (www. Another factor that can play a sweet and savory combinations. comaxflavors.com). “Consumers role in the development of sweet and Roesken discussed several continue to seek out interesting and savory combinations is the prolifera- sweet-savory developments that the contemporary taste fusions to jazz up tion of salt replacers and sweetener company has worked on. their usual menu.” alternatives. In Wild’s portfolio are “We observed the emergence of When tastes such as sweet and Taste Modification Solutions for caramel sea salt in coffee shops, and savory are paired together, it makes Stevia, which possess the ability to worked to translate it into an inclu- for a dimension of flavor like no other, dramatically reduce the negative sion that could be used in a muffin,” bringing a new excitement to the taste characteristics linked with ste- said Roesken. Other types of prod- palate. Here are just a few examples via. The company also offers a ucts that can take advantage of this of sweet and savory duos that the variety of versions of Sunwin Stevia flavor profile include breads, cakes, company offers that can bring a new (Reb A 95%, 60%, and 80%) that are bagels, tortilla chips, breading, bis- dimension to a formulation. conveniently blended with the taste cuits, waffles, donuts, cereal, and Pink Grapefruit Ginger delivers modification ingredients. The com- pretzels. “One application involves a the bitter sweetness of grapefruit pany customizes the blends for formulation to provide a melted with a ginger kick, for use in alcohol optimal balance and overall sweet- pocket of rich sweet caramel that is and beverages. Or Ginger Plum pro- ness profile. Several sweet and complemented by a salty impres- vides the ripe taste of plum with a savory combinations could easily sion,” he said. He added that “the touch of ginger spice, creating an incorporate stevia and its taste modi- caramel flavor in our bits can also be appealing mix for teas. There is also fication solutions. enhanced with smoky notes to pro- Lemon Ginger, which gives a spiced vide a three-dimensional flavor sweetness with tang that is just right Cool to Combine Sweet and Savory? profile—sweet, savory, and salt.” for candies and crème fillings. “It’s become cool to combine savory Bacon is a way to introduce salt And sometimes threesomes are and sweet,” said Rudy Roesken, into a sweet perception. According possible. Take, for example, General Manager/Corporate Vice to Roesken, what consumers like is Cucumber Melon Lime, which offers President for QualiTech, Chaska, that it adds richness. If you add that the crisp taste of cucumber with the Minn. (phone 952-448-5151, www. fatty, salty characteristic, you’re sweetness of melon and tartness of qualitechco.com), a manufacturer of developing a much more complicated lime for beverages. particulates, inclusions, and savory food product that is satisfying. What’s the end result? Well, some blends that can be used as delivery Applewood, Hickory Smoked, and of these duos are more compatible systems to provide flavor, functional- Maple Cured Bacon are popular fla- while others are more contrasting. In ity, mouthfeel, visual appeal, and vor profiles right now. In its portfolio, either case, the marriage brings a new healthful properties. (Is that a wry QualiTech has a kosher parve bacon excitement to the palate. pg 62 09.12 • www.ift.org Sweet and Savory Seasonings flavors with milk, honey, and maple. 30 g serving.) With Sta-Lite® polydex- A number of new sweet-savory sea- This seasoning salt, which includes a trose, this sauce also provides an sonings from Wixon, St. Francis, Wis. hint of whiskey bourbon, is used as a excellent source of fiber. The proto- (phone 800-841-5304, www.wixon. topical rub-on. type was made using the company’s com), help deliver a simple way to For sauce and dip seasonings, Rebalance™ formulation service that add a gourmet touch to meat, dips, Guajillo Fusion Sour Cream Sauce helps manufacturers reformulate for and sauces. These on-trend season- provides a surprising blend of flavors. less fat, sugar, calories, and sodium ings can inspire new products or It consists of Guajillo chile pepper, without compromising taste. reinvigorate old classics. roasted garlic, vinegar, and umami A second sauce prototype, Here are several examples of with sweet chile and honey. Korean Barbecue Sauce, delivers a meat seasonings, rubs, and mari- And for snack seasonings, try sweet and savory kick to foods. nades that provide a distinctive Zippy Chinese Mustard (sharp mus- Using the company’s Create™ formu- sweet and savory combo. Five Spice tard with a touch of honey suitable lation service, which helps Asian Seasoning for wet marinade for pretzels and other crunchy manufacturers design products with applications features bold soy, garlic, snacks) and Habanero BBQ (a mix of innovative taste or texture, it incor- and umami flavors from natural sweetness, mesquite, and heat). porates Vico™ SSD Seasoning bonito flakes that are paired with Granules to give marinades, cooking sweet pineapple, ginger, and brown Getting Saucy with Sweet-Savory sauces, or condiments a robust, sugar. The teriyaki-style seasoning Ingredient systems that reduce fat, savory flavor. The granules are said features top notes of Chinese five sugar, calories, and sodium without to be easy to work with in a season- spice. Another teriyaki-style season- compromising taste can help stimu- ing system. ing for wet marinades, Lemongrass late the development of sweet and Satay Garlic Marinade pairs sweet savory combinations, as demon- Almonds Provide a ‘Harmonious pineapple, ginger, and brown sugar strated by Tate & Lyle, Decatur, Ill. Medium’ for Sweet-Savory with bold soy and umami flavors. Top (phone 217-421-2331, www.tateand- A creamy sweet and savory combi- notes of lemongrass and garlic are lyle.com), using its innovative nation of almond milk, almond butter, offered by this marinade. Sweet & formulation services. toasted diced almonds, blueberries, Smoky Chipotle and Mango Rub com- A Sweet Chili Sauce, made with and tahini formed a cool treat, bines mango with the zip of chipotle, Splenda® sucralose and Krystar® Almond Blueberry Tahini Freeze, onion, garlic, and cilantro. Tangy crystalline fructose, contains half the highlighted by the Almond Board of Recado de Arbol Rub features cinna- sugar and 30% fewer calories com- California, Modesto, Calif. (phone mon, honey, lime, basil, and guajillo pared to its full-sugar counterpart. 209-549-8262, www.almondboard. chile pepper. And Whiskey Bourbon (Full-sugar Sweet Chili Sauce con- com), at the 2012 IFT Food Expo. Salt blends butter and chicken tains 12 g of sugar and 50 calories per Tahini, by the way, is a paste made

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Barbacoa Mini Tacos with Almond Crispy Treats with Chili Chocolate Mojo and Vietnamese Almond Raspberry Jam combined flavors Clusters. A Beer and Bacon Glazed from Southeast Asian cuisine with Almond Snack Mix was also created popular dessert flavors. by chef Cory Barrett, the pastry chef An exciting menu of food and for Iron Chef Michael Simon. beverage prototypes showcasing the best of Asian and Hispanic cui- Sweet and Savory Shines sines was featured by Symrise, At the 2012 IFT Food Expo, sweet- Teterboro, N.J. (phone 201-288- savory combinations had several 3200, www.symrise.com). Several shining moments. As these develop- of these were of a sweet-savory ments and prototypes may provide a nature. These included Asian Mint further stimulus to this trend, I Pesto Chicken with ume plum vinai- thought it would be appropriate, in grette, Lemongrass Poached Tiger closing, to review a few of them. Prawns with soy wasabi cocktail Pass the fried peas. Gold Coast sauce, Vanilla and Blood Orange Ingredients Inc., Commerce, Calif. Layered Panacotta enhanced with (phone 323-724-8935, www.gold- mango tarragon chutney, Lime Basil coastinc.com), had attendees try Gelee with Coconut Cream (a des- fried peas seasoned with such com- sert that includes tangy citrus, fresh binations as honey mustard flavor, green basil, and sweet young coco- chili lime lemongrass flavor, smokey nut), Guacamole with Roasted maple bacon flavor, and wasabi Jalapeno-Infused Tequila and ponzu flavor. Wasabi ponzu combines Grilled Pineapple, and Mayan such flavors as soy sauce, citrus, Chocolate Cake—a sweet choco- Whether it’s a Caribbean-influenced mini taco or a snack mix glazed with beer and bacon, almonds can play a key role in bringing sweet and savory components spices, and wasabi, which is similar late cake made with cocoa and together. Photo courtesy of the Almond Board of California to a hot mustard. accentuated with a hint of cayenne Several flavor profiles from vari- and cinnamon spice. from ground hulled sesame seeds ous regions such as India, Indonesia, A well-known Japanese chef used in North African, Greek, Madagascar, Mexico, and Tahiti once remarked, “I don’t like the Turkish, and Middle Eastern cuisines. were showcased by Sensient word ‘fusion,’ because it’s like I “When putting sweet and savory Flavors, Indianapolis, Ind. (phone always say, ‘fusion is confusion!’ together, almonds make for a harmo- 800-445-0073, www.sensientflavors. My food isn’t really fusion, but more nious medium for an eternal selection com). These included a number of of my interpretation of global cui- of flavors,” noted Chef John Csukor, sweet-savory combinations—Slow sine.” In the same sense, culinary expert for the Almond Board Cooked Beef Pot Roast with Bacon, sweet-savory (like all the other of California. Certain cultures such Roasted Poblano, and Honeycrisp taste combinations emerging today) as Southeast Asian, Indian, and Latin Apple Jam, Slow Cooked Chicken can be considered an interpretation American do this kind of pairing par- with Pineapple Aji Amarillo Glaze, and of our global cuisine. ticularly well, and these creative Lemon Pink Peppercorn Chocolate And it’s my bet—although I’m no pairings have stimulated the pres- Truffle. linguist—that these combinations, ence of “street foods.” Some Coating walnut halves with sugar, as they continue to expand into dif- examples might include a sweet and orange zest, salt, and natural orange ferent product categories, will speak savory empanada from Chile that had flavor produced a sweet-and-savory the language of many consumers, in dried fruits, nuts, and savory meat snack, Orange Glazed Walnuts, from and out of the mainstream. FT fillings; an exotic nut and fruit “mojo” California Walnut Board, Folsom, often presented with grilled savory Calif. (phone 916-932-7070, www. Donald E. Pszczola, meats throughout Caribbean- walnuts.org). Walnuts add taste, Senior Editor • [email protected] influenced Latin cultures of Puerto texture, functionality, and important Rico and Cuba; savory cracked pep- nutrients. per Papadum with sweet-spicy Flavor combo surprises were chutney; and nut- and seafood- filled presented in treat form by Spicetec www.ift.org summer rolls with sweet chili dipping Flavors & Seasonings, a business of Members Only: Read more about Sweet sauce. ConAgra Foods Inc., Omaha, Neb. and Savory online at www.ift.org. Type Csukor has developed a number (phone 800-921-7502, www.spicetec. the keyword into our search box at the upper right side of our home page. of sweet-savory recipes, including com). Coconut Lemongrass Rice pg 64 09.12 • www.ift.org