Fuel for the Sweet and Savoryfire

[INGREDIENTS] by Donald E. Pszczola More Fuel for the Sweet and Savory Fire sensations are blurring that they become so exciting in the formulation. Does that caramel have a salty taste? Is that ginger I detect? Or pink grapefruit with a spicy kick? With all of the different taste sensations possible, the five basic tastes remind me of the Chicago seasons. While we technically have four seasons (winter, spring, summer, and fall), in reality, every month is a separate season—a combination of the previous month’s weather and the next month’s. And with these 12 seasons—some of them changing in a matter of days or even hours—living in Chicago may be unpredictable, but it sure is exciting. And the same thing holds true for food formulating with the taste groups. (I might add that it is only fitting that “the Windy City” is the home of so many different ethnic Here’s some tasty mathematics for you. Take a strip of bacon plus a sweet and creamy ice cream and you get a… Well, I’ll let you finish the sweet-savory equation. As this form of new math proves, anything goes in today’s cuisines.) food formulating computations. Photos ©iStockphoto.com/busypix (left) and nazarethman (right) For consumers who can’t really choose between sweet and salty, more products are appearing in the mar- he sensation of taste can be categorized into five ketplace that can satisfy both moods. For example, Mars basic groups—sweet, salty, sour, bitter, and Chocolate North America recently launched its M&M’s® Tumami—with the tongue identifying each type in a Brand Snack Mix, which can satisfy consumers’ desire for distinct way. And keep in mind that it was not really that a creamy-crunchy-sweet-and-salty snack all in one bag. long ago that taste was perceived four ways with the The product is available in three options: M&M’s Brand somewhat mysterious umami the most recent addition to Milk Chocolate Candies Snack Mix (M&M’s Brand Milk that club known as the Basic Tastes. Chocolate Candies, mini chocolate chip cookies, peanuts, However, even with the addition of umami, I would and mini pretzel twists), M&M’s Brand Dark Chocolate argue that this group is actually much larger if we were to Candies Snack Mix (M&M’s Brand Dark Chocolate consider all the taste pairings that are possible, especially Candies, raisins, almonds, and mini pretzel twists), and the sweet and savory ones, as this article will address. Or M&M’s Brand Peanut Chocolate Candies Snack Mix if we wish to simplify matters, we might (perhaps with a (M&M’s Brand Peanut Chocolate Candies, mini shortbread Sweet and savory pairings provide new inspiration, helping formulators to escape the confines of traditional rules and pursue new roads in terms of flavor, texture, and the creation of healthier foods. little tongue in cheek) call this group “swavory.” That cookies, almonds, and mini pretzel twists). might open the door to other interesting namings as well. Burger King recently launched a “bacon sundae” for However, the real point here is that I think it is essential the summer; it’s made up of vanilla ice cream, chocolate that we focus on these pairings if we are to fully compre- syrup, caramel, bacon crumbles, and a piece of bacon. hend the realm of today’s food formulating, which is so The dessert shows another way that bacon can be com- influenced by different global tastes that are evolving into bined with ingredients such as chocolate, caramel, or fruit the mainstream. to provide a formulation with a sweet-savory sensation. It would be an understatement to say that when sweet Furthermore, bacon’s smoky saltiness can help enhance and savory tastes are combined or doubled up, they make the sweetness and flavor of ingredients such as choco- for a dimension of flavor like no other. And it is precisely late. The bacon sundae and the role of bacon in the because the borders between the different taste creation of sweet-savory formulations is the topic for a pg 50 09.12 • www.ift.org [INGREDIENTS] More Fuel for the Sweet and Savory Fire continued... recent blog post (see below). cheeses, and as a marinade or glaze Calif. (phone 650-824-6395, www. Products such as sweet and for steak, chicken, salmon, pork, or blueberry.org), chutneys, barbecue savory snack mixes and bacon sun- turkey. And, yes, these special jellies sauces, salsas, and dressings pro- daes are only the tip of the iceberg as can even help spice up a peanut but- vide interesting opportunities for the potential of sweet-savory combi- ter sandwich. Yogurt products can product development with blueber- nations continues to grow, especially incorporate sweet and savory combi- ries. I think this has been true for in restaurants and specialty stores or nations such as salted caramel, while awhile now, which, if anything, is a as the subject of food blogs from a tequila cocktail can fuse mango tribute to the versatility of this little around the world. Imagine the dis- and chile. blue-colored berry that provides so tinctive blend of Dijon mustard, Some of the flavors that we will many functionality and nutritional horseradish, and garlic in Grey be looking at in this article, such as benefits. Especially successful is the Poupon Bistro Sauce with orange salted caramel or bacon, have really contrasting heat of various peppers marmalade, orange zest, ginger root, exploded onto the scene in recent with blueberries—the ground ancho and chervil leaves added to create a times. Other ingredients have had a chilies and seranos in a duck breast sauce with a different kind of sensa- longer relationship with an opposite dish; the blueberry-jalapeno lime tion. Jellies (usually perceived as a partner in the revolving wheel of salad dressing; and a red pepper- sweet condiment) can be made with taste sensations. Blueberries—and blueberry condiment for steak. When figs, guavas, or passion fruits that are their sweetness in savory formula- it comes to sauces, blueberries form then paired with a blend of hot pep- tions—would probably be a good synergies with cayenne, garlic, mus- pers to provide sweet heat to example of this. As noted by the U.S. tard, tamarind, wasabi, mint, and hamburgers, hot dogs, meatloaf, Highbush Blueberry Council, Folsom, many others. Cookies with a sly IngredienTalk: front that caught my attention. Most signs the store. They were carrying large signs in front of ice cream shops usually show a that said, “Pigs go home. Leave ice cream Sweet and savory combinations have smiling cow—after all, what better symbol alone.” Or “Save your bacon. Stay where become very popular in the marketplace. At for ice cream than that particular animal. you belong.” Or “It’s the end of the world. one time, bacon would have been found with But this one depicted the face of a pig. I Stop your bacon blaspheming.” your eggs, but today it can be found in sweet probably would have mistaken this place to I looked nervously at the cows. One of applications such as ice cream. One of the be some kind of sausage store if I hadn’t them threw their cud at the window. most recent examples of this is Burger King’s seen the words “Oinks—Best Bacon Ice “Oh, don’t mind them,” said the owner. “bacon sundae.” But when you think about Cream Around.” Curious, I decided to go in. “That’s what happens when they’re out to it, is bacon’s expanding use really that A little bell squealed as I entered, and pasture too long.” Then he turned to the unusual—the stuff that only dreams are once inside I saw a variety of ice cream cows. “Go get jobs, you bovines.” made of? I don’t think so. Bacon’s ability to and frozen dessert products that looked I figured when the pigs showed up, put new twists on traditional applications is familiar and yet seemed different. (How there might be trouble so I quickly ordered the subject of this month’s blog, which fits like a dream.) For example, I came across a one of the bacon-ice cream products and appropriately within the context of the “pigsicle”—a strip of bacon that was was about to sample it when my alarm September Ingredients article on sweet and encased in a frozen ice on a stick. Then I clock went off, proving that it was all savory combinations. And bacon is not the saw something called “baconana.” This indeed just a dream. only savory ingredient that pairs well with a product was a frozen banana covered in I remembered thinking as I showered sweet partner. And vice versa, I might add. If chocolate studded with bacon pieces. that morning, I suppose there was a you have thoughts, dreams, or visions on There were many other products in this chance that some of these products might how to further promote a sweet-savory sen- store such as a scoop of ice cream reach the marketplace. I mean when pigs sation in food formulating—and you’re an wrapped in bacon in place of a waffle fly. I laughed a little sarcastically and put IFT member—visit www.ift.org, type in your cone. Or a milk shake with pieces of bacon the dream behind me. name and password, click on the IFT floating inside. (Didn’t the bacon get That afternoon, I had a taste for a Community button, and go to the blog sec- soggy?) Or a banana split with bacon shav- Whopper with Cheese and Bacon so I went tion.

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