Pearson Redux Rethinking Tradition Vikram Vij's My

MIX IT UP A snapshot of three of Canada’s PEARSON top drink slingers REDUX Celebrity chefs help reinvent the foodservice scene at Toronto’s international airport

RETHINKING TRADITION Non-traditional foodservice operators are creating new efficiencies amidst old challenges PLUS VIKRAM VIJ’S MY SHANTI MAKES ITS Classic comfort sweets are inspiring DEBUT contemporary desserts

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14 24 Features

18 THE CHERRY ON TOP Chefs dish up 41 IF THE SUITE FITS Induction sweet nostalgia with classic, comforting technologies are increasing efficiencies desserts By Lindsay Forsey as cooking island add-ons By Denise Deveau 24 YYZ FOOD FLIGHT PLAN Since 2011, almost 30 food and beverage units have been added or redeveloped at Canada’s Departments largest airport. Will the changes make Toronto Pearson International Airport a world-class food hub? By Ian Harrison 2 FROM THE EDITOR 5 FYI 33 ADAPTING TO CHANGE Non- 14 NOW OPEN: My Shanti, South traditional segment caterers are finding Surrey, B.C. new ways to serve a unique demographic 17 FROM THE DESK By Laura Pratt OF ROBERT CARTER 48 CHEF’S CORNER: 39 THE BAR IS OPEN From Toronto’s David Gunawan, Farmer’s Jen Agg and Halifax’s Jenner Cormier Apprentice Restaurant, Vancouver to Quebec’s Véronique Rivest, today’s bartenders and sommeliers are creating their own rules By Jennifer Febbraro OVER]; DREAMSTIME.COM [BARTENDER MIXING DRINK]; LAURA LEYSHON [FOOD SHOT] C OVER]; DREAMSTIME.COM [BARTENDER PHOTOS: CINDY LA [CANOE BUTTER TART,

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER 2014 1 FROM THE EDITOR

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A NEW SEASON

ho needs a calendar to tell with new products in hopes of wow- you it’s a new season when ing today’s fickle consumer. While Tims Wyou can feel the change in recently introduced a new dark roast, the air. Autumn may mark the return Second Cup followed suit by introduc- to school and cooler weather, but it also ing a new “white” coffee. On the ham- marks the return to a back-to-business burger front, where burger wars are just mentality. In fact, it was late summer as intense as coffee wars, new joints are when news hit that American burger popping up daily, while existing chains chain Burger King and Canada’s iconic are introducing new variations on a doughnut chain Tim Hortons were join- theme, including the “stuff’d” burgers, ing forces (see story on p. 5). recently offered for a limited time by The merger heralds a new chapter Oakville, Ont.-based Works Gourmet in the Canuck company’s illustrious Burger Bistro. history (it celebrated its 50th anniver- Even the staid non-traditional cat- sary this past spring). And while no one egory (hospitals, universities and air- knows what changes will be made over ports) are being reinvented (see story the coming years, Tims aficionados can on p. 33). Earlier this year, Toronto’s only hope their perennial favourite will Pearson International Airport, for exam- retain the charm and character that ple, introduced a series of new food con- has endeared it to fans for five decades. cepts (see story on p. 24). Once havens for Consumers and pundits alike agree you mediocre food priced exorbitantly high, Change has become couldn’t get a bigger story than this many airport managers are now looking “ pervasive in the one, which was splashed across every to celebrity chefs to bring new lustre to competitive food- Canadian newspaper and on every web- their offerings. site, taking Canadians by surprise as Speaking of new, we’re pleased to service industry everyone was enjoying the last vestiges announce the launch of our new website where mergers of summer. Just a week earlier, Tims had at foodserviceandhospitality.com. After and acquisitions made the headlines by introducing a countless hours of development, the dark roast in an attempt to offer con- revamped, modified, re-engineered and are almost daily sumers a more intense flavour — its first responsive website promises to deliver fodder as companies coffee introduction in half a century, what today’s sophisticated readers want. continue to gobble further heating up the coffee wars, which On the print side, we’ve recently added have never been as intense. a new column called Now Open to our each other up like Change has become pervasive in the editorial mix, highlighting a new res- yesterday’s dinner competitive foodservice industry where taurant every month, because, as we all mergers and acquisitions are almost know, in today’s world, it’s all about the ” daily fodder as companies continue to next best thing. gobble each other up like yesterday’s dinner. A few months ago, Cara and Prime made headlines through parent company Fairfax’s acquisition of Cara. One wonders what other block- buster deals are on the horizon and how the foodservice industry will change as a result. Rosanna Caira Competition is increasingly fierce Editor/Publisher today. Companies outdo each other daily [email protected]

2 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER 2014 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM HOW DO YOUR SANDWICHES STACK UP?

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ILLUSTRATIONS: DREAMSTIME.COM MONTHLY NEWS AND UPDATES FOR THE FOODSERVICE INDUSTRY FYI COMBINE AND CONQUER Burger King and Tim Hortons aim to grow their global presence as one new parent company

BY JACKIE SLOAT-SPENCER

TAX onsolidation continues to reshape the restaurant industry. Several months after DIVERSION? Toronto-based Fairfax Financial brought the industry’s biggest casual-dining players C— including Cara Operations and The Keg — under one umbrella, there’s news of “This is not a tax-driven another game changer. In late August, Tim Hortons and Burger King announced a merger deal,” says Alex Behring, that will create a new parent company based on Canadian soil, with details about the location executive chairman of and date of the change sparse at press time. Burger King and managing What is known is that the new publicly traded company will create the globe’s third-larg- partner of 3G Capital, a Rio est quick-service threat, generating $23 billion in system sales across nearly 18,000 units. Its de Janeiro-based invest- largest shareholder, 3G Capital, a Rio de Janeiro-based investment firm, which owns 70 per ment firm, addressing the cent equity in Burger King, will control 51 per cent of the new venture. But, Tim Hortons will concern that a new parent be “at the very heart of this new company,” says Marc Caira, CEO of Tim Hortons. “We will company combining Burger have the ability to be bolder and better positioned to take our brand quickly and efficiently King and Tim Hortons stands to a global customer base,” Caira adds, emphasizing the merger will have no impact on Tim Hortons’ franchisees, as Tims will continue to operate as an independently managed brand to save by setting up shop from its headquarters in Oakville, Ont. “In a nutshell, what this transaction will do is give us in Canada. “Burger King’s a chance to share with the world what Canadians already know and love,” he says. effective tax rate is currently Thanks to Burger King’s nearly 14,000 units across 98 countries, Tims will be better- in the mid- to high-20 [per positioned to plant roots across the globe by tapping into Burger King’s existing franchise centage], which is pretty system, rather than starting from scratch in new markets, speculates Doug Fisher, president much in line with the current of FHG International Inc., a Toronto-based franchising consultancy. And, the partnership effective rate in Canada. will help Tims gain traction in the U.S., where it previously struggled to expand. “Having a Additionally, Burger King’s partner like Burger King who understands the U.S. market could provide Tim Hortons with headquarters will remain in options on how to penetrate that market better,” Fisher explains. Miami, and the company will Miami-based Burger King also stands to gain from Tim Hortons’ 50 years of coffee- continue to pay the same slinging experience. Fisher predicts the burger giant may swap its Seattle’s Best Coffee (a federal, state and local wholly owned subsidiary of Starbucks) with Tim’s roasts; it may also use Tim’s technology and product lines, helping it compete with McDonald’s McCafé program. “[Burger King is] taxes,” he adds. getting unbelievable expertise in the execution [of] coffee programs,” Fisher says.

COOL CAPTAINS Executive jobs and duties will be shuffled in line with a deal that will bring Tim Hortons and Burger King together to become a new parent company. Alex Behring, managing partner of 3G Capital and executive chairman of Burger King, will lead the new global company as executive chairman and director. Meanwhile Marc Caira (left), CEO of Tim Hortons, will become vice-chairman and director, while Daniel Schwartz, CEO of Burger King, will become group CEO. ILLUSTRATIONS: DREAMSTIME.COM ILLUSTRATIONS:

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER 2014 5 FYI

COMING WHITE HOT EVENTS What’s white, foamy and serves up a caffeinated kick? Second Cup’s OCT. 25: Canadian new Flat White espresso beverage. The chain’s leadership hosted an Hospitality Foundation all-white shindig last month during the Toronto International Film Ball, Metro Toronto Convention Centre, Festival at its 289 King St. W. location to celebrate the Flat White Toronto. Tel: 416-363- launch and announce more details about a company transformation. The 3401; email: chf@theohi. espresso-based coffee is handcrafted with a double shot of Second Cup’s rich ca; website: thechf.ca Espresso Forte, velvety steamed milk and a thin layer of micro-foam. The term “Flat White” originated in Sydney, Australia in the mid-’80s and, since then, the coffee-forward beverage NOV. 3-4: 2014 Connect has grown in popularity around the world. The beverage is now available in Second Cup stores across Show, Vancouver Canada, and the team will be hitting select markets across the country, serving Flat Whites out of a bev- Convention Centre erage truck. “It’s a good indication of the innovation and excellence that’s to come at Second Cup in the West, Vancouver. future,” shared Alix Box, president and CEO at the Mississauga, Ont.-based Second Cup Ltd. “We’re on Tel: 604-628-5655; an exciting journey of great transformation to restore this iconic Canadian specialty coffee company to email: samantha@ something really special, and Flat White is just the beginning.” Some of the rejuvenation efforts in the connectshow.com; website: connect near future include a new loyalty program as well as a “Store of the Future,” a revamped Second Cup show.com location, at 289 King St. W., designed by Toronto’s II by IV Design. — Jackie Sloat-Spencer

NOV. 20: Hospitality Professionals Association TRUMP GETS INKED Conference and IT Exhibition (HOSPACE Toronto’s Ink Entertainment and Oliver & Bonacini 2014), Sofitel London Restaurants (O&B) have joined forces to breathe Heathrow, London, new life into the Trump Hotel Toronto’s culinary England. Tel: +44 (0) concepts. Replacing Stock restaurant and Suits Lobby 203-418-8196; email: Lounge, the partners have unveiled America and The [email protected]; website: hospace.net Calvin Bar, with splashy new looks by Toronto’s II by IV Design. Helmed by O&B chef Anthony Walsh, NOV. 20-23: Gourmet America serves gourmet fare with regional flavours, Food and Wine such as Foie Gras Buckwheat Flapjacks with peach CHEFS Show, Metro Toronto caramel and peanut marzipan ($27) and Slow-Cooked HIT THE Convention Centre, Sockeye Salmon topped with guajillo chili, rancho Toronto. Tel: 905-522- gordo legumes and corn smut ($40). It’s “like eat- BIG APPLE 6117; email: foodand- ing your way across Route 66 by way of private jet,” East Coast toques invaded the James [email protected]; describes Michael Bonacini, O&B co-founder and Beard House in New York in late website: foodandwine- partner. Meanwhile, The Calvin Bar offers high-end July to prepare a special “Tour of expo.ca bar snacks and creative twists on classic cocktails, the Eastern Provinces” themed din- DEC. 5: The 2014 such as the Hazelnut Fashioned, made with Bulleit, ner. (From left: Peter Dewar, Nova Pinnacle Awards, Frangelico liquor, dark caramel syrup and Angostura Scotia Community College, Kentville, bitters ($19). The Fairmont Royal N.S.; Adam Blanchard, Five Brothers York, Toronto. Tel: Artisan Cheese, St. John’s, N.L.; 416-447-0888 x236, Andrew Hodge, Holiday Inn St. John’s email: talexandrou@ PHOTO: JEFFREY GURWIN [JAMES BEARD HOUSE] kostuchmedia.com; web- Government Centre Hotel, St. John’s, site: kostuchmedia.com N.L.; Shaun Hussey, Chinched Bistro, St. John’s, N.L.; Roary MacPherson, Sheraton Hotel Newfoundland, St. FOR MORE John’s, N.L.; Roger Andrews, Relish EVENTS, Gourmet Burgers, St. John’s, N.L.; VISIT and Angie Ryan, Sheraton Hotel ) http://bit.ly/FHevents Newfoundland, St. John’s, N.L. The Calvin Bar

6 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER 2014 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM PHOTO: JEFFREY GURWIN [JAMES BEARD HOUSE] FYI

IN BRIEF Restaurateur Frank Di Benedetto has purchased Surrey, B.C.- based Abc Country Restaurants, which has more than 25 locations across B.C. and Alberta...The management at Smoke ‘N’ Water has scrapped the restaurant’s no-tipping policy. The casual-dining restaurant, which opened in Nanoose Bay, B.C. in May, paying servers an hourly wage of $20 to $24, brought tips back to the table after customers demanded the option...Vancouver-based White Spot has opened a two-level, 8,200-sq.-ft. flagship location inside a 100-year- old building in Vancouver, marking the 66th and largest full-service restaurant in the chain...Pizza Nova, based in Toronto, has released its new app for the iPhone and Android. Users can view the Pizza Nova menu, locate a nearby store and save their favourite orders... Executives from The Melting Pot are hoping to ignite a passion for fondue in a new generation of Canadians. With one unit in Edmonton, the Tampa, Fla.-based casual-dining leadership team is actively seeking franchisees in Toronto and Mississauga, Ont., as well as Vancouver and Calgary...Café Boulud and D Bar, located inside Toronto’s Four Seasons Hotel, now produces food that supports the Vancouver Aquarium’s Ocean Wise program, serving sustainable seafood dishes such as potato-wrapped striped bass with pommes purée, glazed leeks, watercress and sauce meurette ($39).

RESTO BUZZ

What’s been promoted as a trashy saloon has landed in historic Old Montreal, with the opening of The Jack Saloon Vieux- Montreal. Executive chef Dave Struggle Boudreau offers a menu of smoked meats and burgers, including barbecue ribs Mahony & Sons ($19 half-rack/$29 full-rack), and an Australian Mediterranean burger topped with grilled marinated beets, blueberry mayonnaise, basil and melted goat cheese (five ounce, $12.50/10- oz., $16)…Mahony & Sons has unveiled its third Irish public house at Stamps Landing in Vancouver, featuring 600 seats spread across two levels and four waterfront patios. Its centrepiece, a two-level back bar, combines traditional and contemporary Irish influences, while the kitchen serves casual comfort food with authentic Irish influences, including Irish Stew, featuring slow-simmered lamb shank and vegetables in Guinness demi-glaze with mashed potatoes and garlic toast ($21.95)…Vancouver’s new Lebanese eatery, Jamjar, ushers in an authentic dining experience with hot and cold “mezze” plates such as mint labneh ($9) and homemade lamb sausages ($9), with a complement of Mediterranean-spiced cocktails...Breakfast franchise Sunset Grill, based in Mississauga, Ont., opened its first unit outside Ontario in St. Albert, Alta. and unveiled a new location in downtown Toronto...Pizza Pizza added a new 16- seat restaurant at 13237 Yonge St. in Richmond Hill, Ont.

Opening a new restaurant? Let us in on the buzz. Send a high-res image, menu and background information about the new establishment to bbinelli@ kostuchmedia.com.

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM Job # 14-IW-0031 Client IMAGEWEAR / J-STEP Date AUG 11/14 Ver # FNL Job FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY MAGAZINE Specs 8.125” x 10.875" + bleed 4C process NOTE: Please run the ads in the order that they appear in this ﬁ le. Page 1 appears ﬁ rst followed by page 2-3 spread.

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PEOPLE Well-Being Movement...Dale Colbran has the new Ungava Gin. Made in Frelighsburg, Ken Otto resigned signed on as the new director of Business Que., Ungava Gin is available in Quebec, as COO of Development, Eastern Canada for the Ontario and Alberta...Niagara-on-the-Lake, Boston Pizza in Vancouver-based Browns Socialhouse as it Ont.-based Diamond Estates launched two September. A gears up to open its first location in Ontario new wines that salute the 100th anniversary replacement was this month in Erin Mills. of the First World War: the 1914 Honour, yet to be named a crisp white wine; and 1914 Valour, a bold at press time... SUPPLYSIDE red. In other beverage news, Niagara’s Small Corbin Tomaszeski Roger Matthews, Brad Willis has transitioned from his role Talk Vineyards unveiled its new Shiny Apple EVP and CFO as CFO of Beverage-Air, a division of Ali Cider, featuring a full apple complexity with of Panera Bread Company, based in St. Group, to becoming CFO of Ali Group notes of pear and carmelized toffee apple… Louis, Mo., has left the chain to pursue other North America, based in Vernon Hills, Ill. Dare Foods Limited, based in Kitchener, opportunities. Bill Moreton, executive vice- In his new role he will oversee financial Ont., has introduced new peanut-free snacks, chairman, has replaced him as interim CFO matters involved in the group’s companies including Dare Bear Paws Morning Snack until a replacement is named...Food Network ...Chicago-based Unilever Food Solutions Wowbutter and Strawberries, and Bear Paws personality Corbin Tomaszeski has landed has found a creative way to recommend Minis Chocolate Chip and Wowbutter... at The Westin Harbour Lipton Specialty Teas to its customers. It’s Sheboygan, Wis.-based Vollrath has released Castle in Toronto as the rolling out new packaging that matches its 2014-15 Equipment and Smallwares hotel’s new executive teas to a consumer’s mood. The company catalogue, featuring a new look with easy- chef. He will craft fresh has also introduced two new teas, Green to-scan product guides and more product and healthy dishes Tea Açai & Blueberry as well as Green Tea pictures. It’s available at vollrath.com… for the hotel as part Cranberry Pomegranate…Six rare botan- Canadian Linen, a Minnetonka, Minn.-based of Stamford, Conn.- icals, including Nordic Juniper, Wild Rose uniform rental and linen-supply company, is Dale Colbran based Westin hotels’ Hips and Labrador Tea, are used to make celebrating its 125th year in business.

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SPARKLE AND SHINE Vikram Vij pumps up the volume at his shiny new restaurant, My Shanti PHOTOS: LAURA LEYSHON [LARGE PHOTO, LEFT; TWO FOOD SHOTS]; CURVE COMMUNICATIONS [ALL OTHER PHOTOS] COMMUNICATIONS TWO FOOD SHOTS]; CURVE PHOTOS: LAURA LEYSHON [LARGE PHOTO, LEFT;

14 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY SEPTEMBER 2014 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM NOW OPEN

MY SHANTI STANDS OUT like a sparkling diamond inside an otherwise unassuming strip mall in South Surrey, B.C. Covered from head to toe in shiny, reflective surfaces, reminiscent of the tiny, intricate mirrors sewn onto a sari, My Shanti opens into a darker, more Bollywood-esque 4,000-sq.-ft. dining room and patio, with 88 seats inside and 30 outside. My Shanti, which translates to “my peace,” is based on a culinary story inspired by owner Vikram Vij’s annual travels around India, visiting various food stalls and executive chefs across the country. He teamed with Vancouver’s Bricault Design, which designed his restaurants Vij’s and Rangoli, to bring his vision to life. The menu features palate-teasers such as wild boar kebabs with south Indian chutney, from Chhatra Sagar ($13.50); cauliflower with potatoes and fenugreek leaves, from Delhi ($12.75); and beef short ribs topped with saffron coconut cream curry, from Calicut ($24.50). It also features boozy, spiced cocktails, such as the Badam da Naasha cocktail with vodka, almond milk, saffron water, cardamom and pistachio ($8). — Jackie Sloat-Spencer PHOTOS: LAURA LEYSHON [LARGE PHOTO, LEFT; TWO FOOD SHOTS]; CURVE COMMUNICATIONS [ALL OTHER PHOTOS] COMMUNICATIONS TWO FOOD SHOTS]; CURVE PHOTOS: LAURA LEYSHON [LARGE PHOTO, LEFT;

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER 2014 15

FROM THE DESK OF ROBERT CARTER

VISION 2020: TAKE TWO The second instalment of a two-part examination into the next seven years in the quick-service restaurant industry

he September instalment of this col- rate drops, daily pressures will continue to umn provided a window into what support the need for convenient meals. As a Tthe quick-service restaurant (QSR) result, off-premise customer traffic at QSR is landscape is expected to look like in 2020, forecast to grow by 10 per cent up to the year according to key findings from NPD’s 2020. Unfortunately not all QSR segments report “Vision 2020: The Future of QSR in will be part of the off-premise growth. Canada.” Last month’s column examined Ironically, quick-service pizza units — the the report’s findings that increased compe- segment that relies the most on off-premise tition and ethnic influences will shape the traffic — appears to be falling out of favour landscape in 2020. This month it’s time to with consumers due to innovative retail fro- examine convenience and snacking trends. zen pizza and the lack of menu innovation from quick-service pizza operators. The net CONVENIENCE WILL BE KING effect will be a decline in customer traffic of The 2020 restaurant market will be driven three per cent running up to 2020. to 2020. The growth drivers of a.m. snacking by convenience. Today, 58 per cent of res- are primarily a result of the generation fol- taurant meals occur off-premise via drive- SNACKING IS ON THE RISE lowing millennials. Post-millennials (aged thru, delivery or take-out. The growth of The snacking dayparts, defined as the meal zero to 19), who have grown up integrat- off-premise restaurant meals has increased occasions after breakfast and before lunch ing restaurant meals into their daily rou- five per cent annually during the past five (a.m. snack) as well as after lunch and before tine, will gravitate to quick-service coffee years, with no indication consumers will dinner (p.m. snack), are poised for strong houses, upscale burger restaurants and the temper their desire for quick, convenient growth during the next five years. The a.m. fast-casual segment for decadent caffeinated restaurant meal solutions. And, as the econ- snacking daypart is forecast to experience beverages, indulgent baked goods and inno- omy strengthens, and the unemployment increased customer traffic by 13 per cent up vative snack items. The afternoon snacking daypart is also expected to become popular Youngest Generations to Drive Industry Growth Leading to 2020 at QSR. This time will be popular among boomers seeking a daily social, treat-based POST-MILLENNIALS BACK-END MILLENNIALS FRONT-END MILLENNIALS occasion. As a result, customer traffic at the 0 to 19 20 to 29 30 to 39 p.m. snacking daypart is forecast to grow seven per cent leading up to 2020.

THE RESPONSE Easy-to-prepare, portable menu items — such as sandwiches, specialty beverages as well as in-home meal solutions from an outside source — will be popular in the next five years, driven by the growth of off-premise restaurant occasions. Similarly, baked goods and innovative snacks are expected to grow in popularity, too. QSR operators should consider both trends when deter-

Growth F 2020 vs. 2013 +9% Growth F 2020 vs. 2013 +7% Growth F 2020 vs. 2013 +9% mining menu strategies in what’s predicted Gen X, younger and older boomers and mature traditionalists will influence foodservice eating to be an otherwise flat market in the years trends less as their populations shrink and many of them become empty nesters and retire. leading to 2020. l

Robert Carter is executive director, Foodservice Canada, with the NPD Group Inc. He can be reached at [email protected] for questions regarding the latest trends and their impact on the foodservice business.

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER 2014 17 FOOD FILE THE CHERRY ON

CHEFS DISH UP SWEET NOSTALGIA WITH CLASSIC, COMFORTING DESSERTS BY LINDSAY FORSEY TOP

Childhood memories are sweet, especially when they involve dessert. Maybe you remember grandma’s butter tart, with its perfectly runny filling baked in a flaky pastry cup; mom’s apple pie, spiced with cinnamon; or the sound of the ice-cream truck bell ringing on summer

afternoons. More than just pleasant recollections, SWEET INDULGENCE

The butter tart at Toronto’s PHOTO: CINDY LA those candy-coated flashbacks are influencing Canoe restaurant feeds dessert menus in Canadian restaurants, into the customer’s desire for desserts inspired by from fine-dining to casual fare. classics from their childhood

18 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER 2014 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOOD FILE PHOTO: CINDY LA PHOTO: CINDY LA

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER 2014 19 FOOD FILE

Comfort foods, deconstructed classic desserts and artisanal ice cream are a few of the top trends listed in the “Restaurants Canada 2014 Chef Survey,” conducted by Toronto market research firm BrandSpark and based on responses from more than 400 profes-

sional chefs across the country. The icing INGREDIENT OF THE MONTH: PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM [SEA BUCKTHORN BERRIES]; CINDY LA [CHOCOLATE TORTE] on the cake? People are most willing to pay SEA BUCKTHORN BERRY more for made-from-scratch desserts tied This sunny-coloured berry packed with pro- to quality and nostalgia, according to “The tein, fibre, antioxidants, vitamins and miner- Canadian Dessert Consumer Trend Report als is popping up on restaurant menus. 2013,” published by Chicago-based research Touted as a powerful superfood, the tiny fruit originated in the Himalayas but is now MADE WITH CARE firm Technomic. Plus, nearly 40 per cent of Rustic sweets made with consumers surveyed are seeking the desserts grown all over the world, including Canada. wholesome ingredients Sea buckthorn berry is tart when eaten raw, are key trends on today’s they enjoyed as children. so it’s usually cooked down into jams and dessert menus with dishes “People are embracing rustic baking and such as the Sugar Pumpkin syrups. “It brings a tropical acidity, similar Pudding Cake at Calgary’s warming comfort food that is meant to be to passion fruit or sour pineapple and River Café and Callebaut shared,” confirms Andrew Winfield, execu- an orangey-yellow colour,” says Anthony Chocolate doughnuts from tive chef at Calgary’s River Café. “A great Calgary-based Jelly Modern Walsh, corporate executive chef at Toronto’s Doughnuts, where the treats dessert evokes a memory. Our version of a Oliver and Bonacini Restaurants (O&B). are made from scratch s’more, for example, reminds people of sit- O&B sources its sea buckthorn berries from ting around a campfire roasting marshmal- Quebec and uses them to make stuffed lows.” The Wood-Fired Oven Kahlua-and- doughnuts at its Bannock location as well Espresso S’more ($3) is made with organic as custards and other desserts.

20 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER 2014 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOOD FILE

WHEN A about indulging,” he says. River’s bestsell- DESSERT IS ing desserts include anything chocolate and “ all things salted caramel, reflecting another MADE FROM prominent trend noted in the “2014 Chef SCRATCH Survey.” The Maple Wild Rice Pudding ($11) USING LOCAL, with huckleberry compote and citrus lace

IN-SEASON cookies is a signature favourite, as is the sea-

sonal Warm Pumpkin Sticky Toffee Pudding INGREDIENTS, ($11), on the menu throughout fall and win- PEOPLE FEEL “ ter and served with spiced crème fraiche. GOOD ABOUT “We source local wild rice from northern INDULGING Alberta and infuse the pudding with maple syrup, cinnamon, star anise and vanilla,” Winfield says. Diners anticipate these belly- warming delights. “We encourage a well- balanced enjoyment of dinner, including dark chocolate and a hand-crafted graham something sweet. It’s good to remind people cookie. All desserts are made in-house at about dessert before the end of the meal,” River Café, including the dozen-or-so he says. River Café’s dessert prices have ice creams and sorbets ($10) on offer, increased only slightly over the past 15 years, JUST A TASTE Big chunky slices of cake are featuring flavours such as maple corn and from an average of $8 to $10 up to an aver- being balanced with smaller anise hyssop. age of $10 to $11. “I think prices are due for portion options on Canadian dessert menus, such as the Winfield describes his customers as a more significant increase. The dishes are stuffed doughnuts at Vaughan, knowledgeable foodies seeking well-rounded profitable, but many of the products we use Ont.-based Swiss Chalet and the smaller Chocolate Tort at meals and often this means saving room in are pricey,” he says. “We make sure the sales Toronto’s Canoe restaurant their stomachs, and their wallets, for dessert. are there to make it work.” “When a dessert is made from scratch using While desserts aren’t the most profitable local, in-season ingredients, people feel good menu items, they are essential. At Toronto-

based Oliver & Bonacini Restaurants (O&B), the last bites of a meal are never an after- thought. “Understanding the importance of the whole meal is huge,” says Anthony Walsh, the O&B corporate executive chef, who oversees the menus at the company’s 12 restaurants, which range from casual cafés to

PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM [SEA BUCKTHORN BERRIES]; CINDY LA [CHOCOLATE TORTE] top fine-dining establishments. “Costs have come up over the past few years. The days of the $7 dessert are gone, and you’re not going to make a ton of money on it, but dessert is the happy ending to a great experience, and we bust our humps to make that happen.” Over the past few years some O&B restaurants have been leveraging sales by offering a selection of teeny desserts, such as a two- tablespoon-sized crème brûlée or a cheesecake lollipop. “Small-portion desserts are not as indulgent as having the giant slice of molten chocolate cake,” Walsh says. “A lot of people want just a small treat at the end of their meals.” Tiny desserts aside, other popular O&B sweets include Jump Restaurant’s Artisan White Chocolate Cheesecake ($9), double-baked in phyllo pastry with biscotti

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER 2014 21 FOOD FILE

SUPPLYSIDE INNOVATIONS

Chef Pierre LUXE LAYERS PIES from Peoria, Ill.-based Sara Lee combine gourmet recipes with familiar flavours: two fillings in two crusts, such as blueberry with lemon meringue. Pies are pre-sliced to reduce waste and cut costs. Thaw and serve.



VEGAN CAKES from Chicago’s Eli’s Cheesecake Company are made with silken tofu to create a creamy rendition of a classic. Available in Belgian Chocolate ON TREND Calgary-based Jelly Modern Doughnut’s Maple Bacon variety highlights two key Canadian Cheesecake and Carrot Cake dessert trends — doughnuts and bacon Cheesecake flavours.

crust and its Chocolate Layer Cake ($9), a inventiveness. It’s about those curious people decadent wedge made for two, served with in the back who create stuff that makes icy-cold milk. people smile.”  O&B desserts are made in-house at One of those folks in the back is Robert individual restaurants or supplied by the Gonsalves, the pastry chef at O&B’s upscale company’s bakery (not open to the public). Canoe, who is creating a fall dessert made It churns out take-away items, such as cook- with rye and apples and something new for  ies, for the company’s more casual eateries the Chef’s Menu using balsam fir. Canoe’s and handles all off-site catering. “We’ve been most popular desserts include its Chocolate operating our bakery for four-and-a-half Torte and Classic Canoe Butter Tart ($12 years now. It’s incredible to have complete each). “A good dessert is about balance,” he INDIVIDUAL CAKES from control over production,” says Walsh, who says. “You want something that is rich and Reading, Pa.-based Sweet is tuned in to the trend toward nostalgic acidic and texturally interesting.” Street Desserts include trendy desserts. “Customers are looking for tried- The trend toward familiar desserts is flavours such as Yuzu Lime and-true classics, like pies and cobblers. apparent across foodservice segments. At Cheesecake and Salted Caramel The approachability factor is big right now,” Swiss Chalet Rotisserie and Grill, a Vaughan, Cheesecake, offering a new take he says. Ont.-based Cara Operations’ brand, the des- on tradition. Small, circular serv- Incorporating hearty grains, such as sert menu is focused on pie and ice cream. ings replace the typical slice. kamut, buckwheat, millet and amaranth “Dessert has to fit with our vision of offering THE GLUTEN-FREE LINE into desserts is another trend noted on the uncomplicated comfort food done right. It from Vancouver’s Trumps Fine “2014 Chef Survey,” as well as at O&B. “We should bring you to a place of good memo- Food Merchants includes cup- always have customer welfare in mind, but ries,” says Lindsay Robinson, Swiss Chalet’s cakes and cookies, plus a we aren’t necessarily including more grains director of Marketing. The brand makes classic lemon bar, hazelnut for health reasons. It’s more about exploring some desserts in-house, while others are tartlet and more. flavours and textures,” Walsh says. “Dessert sourced from unnamed suppliers. Robinson has to have elements of fun, naughtiness and explains that shareable items are popular

22 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER 2014 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOOD FILE

choices: “Gone are the days of heavy, deca- shop in Toronto as well as kiosks inside chef, Atul Palghadmal, who stresses that the dent desserts for one person,” she says. Pusateri’s, Toronto-based gourmet food doughnuts are made from scratch, contain The trend towards smaller indulgences shops. Jelly will open another location in no additives or preservatives and include is also influenced by cost. According to Toronto’s financial district this fall with local, seasonal ingredients when possible. Technomic’s report, dessert remains a plans to hit Vancouver next. “People have a love-hate relationship with price-sensitive add-on where affordability The doughnut-centric operation is the doughnut,” he says. “They don’t see it as and value are key purchase drivers at both capitalizing on trends towards bite-sized a healthy option, but it’s such a good sweet.” limited- and full-service restaurants. Swiss portions, wholesome ingredients, budget- Catering and events make up a significant Chalet’s bestselling dessert — its signature friendly choices and traditional feel-good portion of Jelly’s business, with corporate stuffed doughnuts ($6 to $7) — hits the indulgences. Jelly offers a three-bite dough- clients ordering customized flavours, brides spot for both portion size and price point. nut ($2.25) and a regular-sized rendition choosing something more whimsical than “Guests want the indulgence, just less of it,” ($2.75) with flavours such as Classic Jelly, cake and parents spoiling kids on birthdays. Robinson says. “They also want something Callebaut Chocolate and Maple Bacon “Jelly doughnuts are something you can they wouldn’t necessarily make at home.” rounding out the bestsellers list. (Bacon is display on a dessert table and really make During the past few years, doughnuts yet another dessert trend noted on the “2014 a beautiful impression,” Palghadmal says. have experienced a revival, appearing on Chef Survey.”) The monthly feature dough- “That’s not something you could always say restaurant menus and inspiring new busi- nut has included the London Fog, with a about doughnuts.” With more than 8,000 nesses dedicated to the old-fashioned chai tea-infused glaze, whipped cream and Twitter followers, Jelly’s success proves that treat. Calgary’s Jelly Modern Doughnuts, sprinkles, and the Cherry Cobbler, stuffed the doughnut remains a sought-after sweet. co-owned by siblings Rita and Rosanne with cherry pie filling, then topped with cin- Twenty years from now, people will still Tripathy, opened its first location in April namon and streusel. get that warm, fuzzy feeling reminiscing 2011. Since then, the brand, applauded by Jelly has introduced more than 150 vari- about the chewy, circular delight, albeit with Martha Stewart and Oprah Winfrey, has eties since opening. “There’s so much you a more modern twist than the Hawaiian launched a food truck in Calgary and a can do with a doughnut,” says head pastry Sprinkle of days past. l PROFILE

YYZ FOODMARK MCEWAN used to avoid the restaurants at Canada’s busiest airport. “Pearson was always famous for no food to really bad food. I barely ate there,” says the Top Chef Canada judge, whose restaurant assets in Toronto include North 44, Bymark FLIGHT and Fabbrica. McEwan is a major player in a gambit by the not-for-profit Greater Toronto Airports Authority (GTAA), which manages, operates and maintains Toronto Pearson International PLANSince 2011, almost 30 food and beverage units Airport and is retooling its foodservice landscape. With consulting on two concepts, the have been added or redeveloped at Canada’s Fetta Panini Bar and Nobel Burger Bar under his belt, one of McEwan’s hurdles is to alter largest airport. Will the changes make dismally low expectations. There are signs of Toronto Pearson International Airport a shift. “We did $20,000 in sales one day at Nobel. This is at a burger bar in an airport. a world-class food hub? BY IAN HARRISON It’s remarkable.” As part of the GTAA’s phased upgrade, McEwan’s company also offers catering ser- vices, preparing and delivering up to 2,500 food units (think salads, sandwiches) to 10 restaurants managed by the New York-based OTG, one of three primary foodservice

24 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER 2014 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM NEW CHOICES The Toronto Pearson International Airport foodservice regenera- tion includes options for eating on the go and options for more leisurely meals at restaurants such as (clockwise from top) Mill St. Brewery, Boccone Pronto, Heirloom Bakery Café, Nobel Burger Bar, Marathi and the Fetta Panini Bar Subscribe Online IT’S EASY AS 1,2,3

1. VISIT FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM 2. CLICK ON THE SUBSCRIPTION BUTTON 3. COMPLETE INFORMATION REQUIRED ON THE ONLINE FORM

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SECURITY CHECK It’s not just passengers who require a stringent security check at the airport. Moving food in and out of Toronto Pearson International Airport also involves following many regulations and procedures. “There is no question the movement of goods into the airport is different and in many ways more challenging than a traditional restaurant would encounter,” says Janine Gervais, the associate director of the Retail and Food Programs at the not-for- profit Greater Toronto Airports Authority (GTAA), which manages, operates and maintains Pearson. “The GTAA has a comprehensive logistics program to facilitate the movement of goods at our airport. We have a centralized Logistics Centre (LC) that receives all items des- tined for our stores and restaurants. Our processes are strictly regulated from a safety-and-security perspective — all suppliers must be vetted and all items are kept in a strict chain of custody. Goods are received at the LC, screened, packed and then moved to tenant kitchens, storage rooms, warehouses and eventually on to our passengers’ plates.”

EASY AND CONVENIENT denly sexy airport foodservices space, hav- Three operators — New ing forged chef partnerships at New York’s York’s OTG, Bethesda, Md.’s HMSHost and Surrey, U.K.’s LaGuardia and JFK. Rick Blatstein, CEO, is SSP — are overseeing the a former restaurant and nightclub owner new foodservice options who asserts that his company delivers at the Toronto Pearson International Airport. The “restaurants inside airports,” rather than OTG plan includes Wi-Fi- airport restaurants. And, OTG claims its enabled iPads, which display menus in 20 different close to $11 per patron spend leads the languages, at restaurants industry in North America. such as Marathi ( ) above The chef-driven approach is deliberate. “We believe we can have great restaurants in airports,” explains Sean Aziz, director of Communications, OTG. “We work with operators at Pearson. The end result is a chefs who understand their market. That new spinoff, of sorts, for the Toronto-based insight allows us to create concepts that McEwan Group. “It’s [like] a new business,” are relevant.” begins McEwan, explaining how the com- The OTG blueprint seems radical on the pany’s duties at the airport expand beyond surface: upcycle wasteful terminal space into foodservice to include navigating customs, a profit generator with whiz-bang designs expediting, packaging, labelling, costing and Wi-Fi-enabled iPads, which display out, compartmentalizing units and creating menus in 20 different languages and allow retail goods. customers to order a glass of Pinot Noir OTG, the firm that recruited McEwan with the swipe of a finger. — and others such as chef Rocco Agostino, The suggestion that airports can, and sommelier John Szabo and baker Devin should, serve good food evokes a bygone Connell — is a relative upstart in the sud- age when some of the best restaurants in

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM THE 26th ANNUAL PINNACLE AWARDS 26

WHERE THE INDUSTRY COMES TOGETHER TO CELEBRATE EXCELLENCE

Last year, more than 500 industry executives came together in December to celebrate excellence.

This year, on Dec. 5, at Toronto’s Fairmont Royal DEC. 5, 2014 York Hotel, Rosanna Caira and the KML team will host the 26th Annual Pinnacle Awards, bringing together leaders from a wide spectrum of sectors THE FAIRMONT in the foodservice and hospitality industry to celebrate ROYAL YORK achievement. Awards will be presented in five categories for Foodservice and Hospitality including RECEPTION AT 11:00 a.m. (Company of the Year, Western Canada; Company FOLLOWED BY LUNCH AND AWARDS of the Year, Eastern Canada; Independent Restaurateur; PRESENTATION Chef of the Year; and Supplier of the Year) and four categories for Hotelier (Company of the Year, National and Regional; Hotelier of the Year; and Supplier of the Year). Additionally, KML will also be presenting the newly minted “Rosanna Caira Lifetime Achievement Award” to a shining industry luminary.

HOSTED BY

Rosanna Caira Michael Bonacini Kostuch Media Limited O&B Restaurants

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reboot with two veteran primary operators. “HMSHost and SSP [Canada] have been with us for decades,” explains Gervais, of the companies based in Bethesda, Md. and Surrey, U.K., respectively. “They’ve evolved. The GTAA’s decision to continue with them was based on sitting down and talking about where we wanted to go, where they were at that point in the contract and then working to deliver the vision together.” The GTAA’s primary goal was to generate more energy and buzz for the airport’s restaurants. HMSHost, OTG and SSP led the charge to identify key local chefs. The entire Pearson foodservice upgrade, which began in 2011, and is slated to continue into 2016, already features almost 30 new restaurants, representing all segments. Just to get a taste of what’s on offer, there’s Acer, a modern Japanese restaurant by chef Guy Rubino and from OTG; Boccone Trattoria Veloce, a trattoria and Boccone Pronto, its quick-serve counterpart from SSP Canada in partnership with chef Massimo Capra; and Asian Kitchen by Susur Lee, a new addition from HMSHost this summer. HMSHost, with a foothold in more than TRIED AND TRUE Customer 100 airports around the globe, and annual favourites such as Starbucks Coffee sales in excess of $2.7 billion, had an exist- and Toronto’s popular Caplansky’s Delicatessen (below) combine with ing partnership with Roger Mooking. So, newer options such as Camden the TV host and cookbook author consulted Food Co. and Corso to create buzz for the food at Toronto Pearson on menu improvements and helped with International Airport as part of a enlistment. One of the first calls was to the redevelopment plan that will continue into 2016 founder of Caplansky’s Delicatessen. The deli’s owner, Zane Caplansky, and HMSHost expect the two Caplansky’s the U.S. were in the likes of Chicago O’Hare and LAX. “Good food enhances the customer experience,” declares Janine Gervais, the associate director of the Retail and Food Programs at the GTAA. “In 2010 we took a long hard look at the retail and foodservices landscape at Pearson. It was lacklustre. So we set out to define a strategy to make the airport a premier gateway.” In the final analysis, no single airport served as a pro- totype for Pearson. Gervais contends that it was a matter of tailoring best practices to the Toronto market. The decision to take those culinary ideas to the airport’s two Terminals (1 and 3) led to a new partnership with OTG and a

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Delis at Pearson — the first of which time. You quickly realize the iPads are there, opened this summer — to do four times the because they don’t want to hire staff.” volume as the original College Street loca- OTG has responded to those concerns. tion in Toronto. “I had wanted to look at “The traditional restaurant environment franchising and growing my business. This is inefficient at airports, where time-man- is an ideal environment,” says Caplansky. agement is everything,” says OTG’s Aziz. “HMSHost is an incredible international He adds: “The potential lack of human franchisee. Some of the biggest brands trust interaction was a major question we had them, and we have a built-in market at the [with the iPad deployment]. But it’s been airport. It was a wonderful win-win oppor- the opposite.” tunity. We’re making the vast majority of Most pointed, however, was this com- the food the same as on College Street. ment from a Nuttall-Smith column in The pricing is the same as well.” March: “Two years ago, OTG management’s The HMSHost executive behind the Michael Coury told me: ‘Some of your best Pearson partnerships with Caplansky and restaurants downtown will now be in your other big names such as Lynn Crawford, airport.’ From what I tasted and experi- Susur Lee, Mohammed Fakih and John enced, that is not yet even close to being Placko is Karen Grezner. The company’s the case.” director of Restaurant Portfolio notes “We respect all feedback,” responds Aziz. that it requires effort and persistence to “The great thing about our concepts is that, convince high-profile chefs to license their because we own and operate our restau- names. Natural concerns about quality rants, we can make changes on the fly.” dilution, procurement, supply-chain How deeply star chefs dig in at Pearson management and personnel require may be a key factor in whether critics, and immediate assuagement. customers, embrace the airport’s metamor- “None of [the chefs HMSHost enlisted] phosis. “Each operator comes at it differ- were promoting their restaurants to be ently,” says the GTAA’s Gervais. “OTG hires franchised and run by someone else,” notes chefs to design menus. With SSP, a chef like Grezner. “And here I am saying we want Massimo Capra is here very often. I person- to license their brand at Pearson. It’s like ally have seen him on the line. As far as the letting go of their baby. So there is trepida- new restaurants from HMSHost chefs, like tion. They have to have the confidence that Lynn Crawford and Susur Lee, we’ll see how it’s not just fast-food we’re doing and that they evolve.” behind the scenes we have a full kitchen Overall, although the cost of the entire with real chefs and a real level of skill — Pearson revitalization hasn’t been disclosed, because every one of them has their name Gervais is optimistic the foodservice turn- on the door and on the menus.” about will be a success. “Toronto Pearson And, while the approximately dozen has seen a 26-per-cent increase in sales chef consultants involved in the Pearson across the board and a 15-per-cent to revamp will confront similar concerns, not 63-per-cent increase in the actual number all will be as hands-on as Caplansky. And of guest transactions per new or redevel- that concerns prominent food writers in oped retail location. I am very pleased with Canada, such as Toronto restaurant critic the evolution of our program. The opportu- Chris Nutall-Smith. After several visits to nity to enjoy a meal at an Italian restaurant FEEL BARRANCAS. the airport, The Globe and Mail columnist with nice wine, or conversely, enjoy Subway reserved his harshest criticism for OTG. or A&W is wonderful and demonstrates FEEL PASCUAL TOSO. “The initial promise from OTG was enor- variety and diversity. And we’re just 60 per Pascual Toso Malbecs originate in the dry and arid mous. A year later I went and the chef’s cent of the way there. Most of Terminal 3 terroir of Las Barrancas, Maipú, where we produce faces and names were nowhere to be found. will be redeveloped over the next year. By award winning wines known the world over. There are no real kitchens, because the ter- the time we hit 100 per cent of program minal’s ceilings are so high, the company turnover, lease renewals will start to come couldn’t install commercial exhaust systems. up and we will be working to reinvent our The prices are high, and the iPad ordering program to meet the needs of the next gen- system is awful. They try to upsell you every eration of passengers.” l TosoWines www.eurovintage.com FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM TOSO Reﬁned TOSO Premium CAMBRO.COM/PRO BREAK FREE. PROUP. RUST-EXTRACTOR PROFESSIONAL talents aremore valuablethanthat.With Camshelving corroded shelving. You’re aprofessional.Your timeand No onegoestoculinaryschool toscrapedirty, old, you’ll say goodbyeto rust forever. ® ,

PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM SEGMENT REPORT

ADAPTING TO CHANGE Non-traditional segment caterers are finding new ways to serve a unique demographic BY LAURA PRATT

ealthfulness, local food, innovation and value are a few factors powerfully influencing the non-traditional foodservice segment today. But while the trends reflect traditional foodservice, this landscape suffers the unique burden of fiscal restraints that impose a Hlimit on its expansion and innovation. With descriptors such as “variously institutional,” “commercial” and “near-to-home,” the non-traditional foodservice market provides service to a range of institutions. From university and college campuses, to hospitals, nursing homes, retirement homes and workplace cafeterias, this category is a collection of establishments where food is served to large groups of people who often eat many of their meals in one institution. PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER 2014 33 SEGMENT REPORT

BEHIND THE SCENES From feeding hordes of hungry college students, to catering corporate events and prepping healthy meals inside hospital cafeterias, contract caterers do it all. Last year, Canada’s top-five contract-caterers amassed nearly $3.4 billion in sales.

Compass Group Canada 2,508 units $1.8 billion

Aramark Canada Ltd. 1,550 units $994 million

Sodexo Canada Ltd. 500+ units *$546 million

Dana Hospitality Inc. 92 units $37 million

Marek Hospitality Inc. 19 units $16 million

*Denotes estimate

KNOW THY CUSTOMER vice. “People are always eating,” Matheson says. “So one of the chal- While a restaurant is a “special-occasion place,” the non-traditional lenges for operators is to have things available throughout the day.” category caters to a market whose customers are fed daily. “[So] Thankfully, an interest in raw, cold and hand-held foods has heralded the biggest thing with this segment is an interest in healthy food the replacement of salad bars with “cold bars” featuring vegetables, choices,” says Sandra Matheson, president of Oakville, Ont.-based dips and ethnic breads that can be left out for long periods of time. Food Systems Consulting Inc., which consults for traditional and non-traditional foodservice clients, including universities, hospitals CONSIDER COSTS and government agencies. “People are paying more attention to having But before food can be served at institutions, managers must first con- vegetables, fresh ingredients, protein, reasonable portion sizes.” sider capital investments and operating costs. These financial realities Proximity to other people is important in this foodservice environ- have led to dynamic changes within the industry, says Barry Telford, ment, too. In fact, some new seniors’ supportive housing projects are SVP Healthcare & Education at Sodexo, an international service being built with “tea kitchens” only — limited-cooking environments provider whose Canadian headquarters are in Burlington, Ont. Such that encourage residents to go to the dining room and partake in on- changes include the trend towards re-thermalization. In other words, site social offerings. a product is prepared off-site at a facility that produces food and sent Many retirement communities also feature food clubs, where a to an institution in a refrigerated or frozen state to be reheated for movie night showing of The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel, for example, multiple end users. might be complemented by the culinary accompaniment of an Indian This approach requires fewer staff and less kitchen space; instead, PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM meal. “That tells us that the social aspect of eating has become much all the establishment in question requires is equipment to reheat food. more evident,” Matheson says. “People are understanding that, living The process leverages savings through purchasing and larger produc- alone, they need to seek out social encounters, and one of the best tion runs. “There are real upsides to this,” says Telford. “The hospital times to do that is mealtime.” doesn’t have the same operational cost structures or the same focus on Meanwhile, mealtime is often in flux in non-traditional foodser- labour it did before.”

34 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER 2014 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM SEGMENT REPORT Merry Such practices are necessary, says Matheson, considering that the cost of food has been on the rise since 2008, with a spike in the last year or two. More than that, in Ontario, for example, the minimum MASHED wage hike in June, from $10.25 to $11 an hour, is being felt down the line. “When minimum wage goes up, everything else goes up, too,” says Matheson, explaining that it’s especially hard for her company’s clients, who aim to offer at least $1 more than minimum wage to attract workers. Add the $7 or $8 per-patient cost for daily meals in most health- care institutions, says Beth Hunter, program director at the Montreal- based J.W. McConnell Family Foundation, and you’ve got lots of expenses and not many ways to raise money within the health-care + realm for the adoption of local and sustainable fare. “Food is not considered an important central tool to building health, so it’s not a core cost that you can fundraise for,” explains Hunter of the non-profit that builds communities to develop people’s potential and contribute to the common good. “Funding for hospital food is very limited,” agrees Sharon McDonald, president of Compass Group Canada Healthcare in + Mississauga, Ont. At Morrison, the arm of Compass that provides hospital-based patient-feeding and retail and support-service business, the solution has been the introduction of Steamplicity, which replaces cold-plate retherm. “We’ve had challenges with this technology in terms of patient satisfaction and quality deterioration,” admits +

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McDonald of the process wherein food is fresh-plated, sealed and cooked under steam pressure. But the program offers a lot of efficiencies, too. “[It’s] the healthiest way to cook food in terms of retaining the nutrients,” McDonald says. More than that, the Steamplicity ‘TIS THE SEASON FOR MASHED. system — which has been installed in 13 hospitals across Ontario ® — requires little equipment, it offers environmental savings by using Bring fresh ideas to the table with Potato Pearls less water and fuel than conventional food-prep systems, and it has Mashed Potatoes. A few simple mix-ins add excitement significantly reduced food waste. to the menu and deliver results to your bottom line. For seasonally-crafted recipes, valuable menu strategies CREATE CHANGE and promotional tips, go to baf.com/SideWithProﬁ ts Universities and colleges are leading the charge in providing local, sustainable food. And their efforts, combined with those of local-food advocates such as chef/restaurateur Jamie Oliver, have influenced consumers who now demand better options. In turn, distributors have PHOTOS: DREAMSTIME.COM ™ baf.com responded with enhanced relationships with produce suppliers and increased fresh and local offerings. Still, says J.W. McConnell’s Hunter, enacting change in big institutions can be hard. In some cases, she says, the dietitians and food sup- ®2014 Basic American Foods. pliers are the barriers to transformation. “They’re used to working a Basic American Foods™ is a trademark and Potato Pearls® and Potato Pearls®. We make them easy – You make them amazing! EXCEL® are registered trademarks of Basic American Foods. 36 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER 2014 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM

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PHOTOS: DREAMSTIME.COM ally local,ally suppliers andchefs —either Sodexo-supplied or hospital initiative raw includes ingredients from theordering of approved, ide- to canalsolead interactions.life-sustaining nutrition meaningful The relationships in makingchange. supply-side changes; institutional culture andtherole andpersonal of improvedthey their menus food; local to how prioritize track they haveinstitutions who into offer such led how insights change will more healthy, local, sustainable food. Like-minded from individuals to procuring through thetransition walkparticipants Program will try’s nationalvoice for movement, thefood theInstitutional Food care andahospital. facilities the cafeterias, patientmealsandvending machines of one recipient. usethefundsto It provide will local, sustainable to food Quebec’s (CSSS)des is Sommets Sociaux Centre Service de et Santé and join J.W. McConnell’s program. collaboration training learning to support. eight receiveand selected Each will upto grant $75,000per and universities. such ashospitals,institutional settings long-term care centres, schools idea is to promote more the inclusion local, of sustainable in foods thisyear’swith itsInstitutional Food implementation Program. of The travels,”far food Hunter adds. how of impact isthatitcuts down food local on thetransportation of sustainable into food institutions andinto supply chains. Onebenefit system issue. isacritical “We’re working to more get healthy, and local communicating what’s possible.” champions,” shesays. “We wantto take thisto another level by better Hospital astheexceptions.Scarborough inOntario “We these need ColumbiaBritish in Vancouver, Dalhousie University in Halifax and by institutions such astheUniversity Winnipeg, of theUniversity of thatmaypractices entrenched.” be Shepointsto sourcing local done way,certain andmakingashiftmeanstakingmore andchanging time SEGMENT REPORT Meanwhile, Sodexo’s new Expressly for You shows program how Montreal’s with In partnership Food Secure Canada, thecoun- received organization The 20fundingapplications for theprogram J.W.The McConnell Family Foundation change inciting isfurther alternativeThe thefood isuntenable since of thesustainability three long-term vice todayvice issomuch more thanjust one more dinner.” l asapreventative,” atfood] [look shesays. “Non-traditional foodser they’re eatwhen people sick or older isimportant, today we to need their development or long-term centres andhospitalswhere thefood erties. “Whether it’s schools on where thekidseatis impactful thefood garden or salad. caesar baked lemon sauce dill salmon or loin alemon with wedge andaside flavour areaddressed. For be a example, mealmight typical Aramark a by thedoctors andnutritionists, presentation before and theissues of recommendationson thenutritional implemented diets andspecial their care,” of part says Lawrie. It’s why Aramark’s menu options build tomer’s overall healthandrecovery, andthemealsare a essentially inhealth-care environmentsfoodservice isto contribute to acus- byhigher between cent. 12and17per the overall experience, variety, rating taste, presentation and quality sion.” After the change, patients expressed increased with satisfaction their mealdeci- atthemoment of staff foodservice experience with to askquestions andhavethe opportunity areal discussion abouttheir thecustomer.with Patients went from minimal control to [getting] procured, prepared or delivered thefood; just theway we interacted didn’t menu itself “The change,” clarifies. Lawrie “Nor didtheway we thecustomer team member visits toby take afoodservice hisorder. evolved wish That into the “spoken menu program,” aprocess where- they’re —when truth tomoment deciding what of have for ameal.” to findaway to morewith ourcustomerspersonally atthe connect picture. health-care foodservice traditional He explains: “We wanted thenon- in Canada, of isabig interaction part thatsocial agrees and good, food. nutritious It’s agreat combination,” explains Telford. the patient, sothere’s relationship-building, good interaction social daily. ninetimes visits thoseinteractions,“Through you to get know or tomato from andpotato frittata meatloaf hostess abedside who scratch in clients’ on-site kitchens. Patients order mealssuch as turkey employees under Sodexo’s management —andpreparing mealsfrom J.W. McConnell’s Hunter alsoplaces value on food’s healingprop- course, isimportant, too.Of itself thefood for top priority “The Greg Lawrie, RVP for Aramark’s business health-care lineof -

PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM [BARTENDER PREPARING COCKTAIL] POURING FOR PROFITS

he word “foodie” has JEN AGG And, there’s plenty of the latter THE BAR been added to the dic- Widely known as the owner and in the male-dominated industry, Ttionary. But there doesn’t operator of Toronto’s acclaimed says Agg. IS OPEN seem to be an equivalent term Black Hoof, Jen Agg is also Regardless, in 2011 Agg From Toronto’s Jen Agg for someone who is interested a master mixer, opening the opened the rustic Cocktail Bar and Halifax’s Jenner in the creation and consump- Toronto bar Cobalt at 21. across the street from the Black Cormier to Quebec’s tion of alcoholic drinks — think Bartending made sense to the Hoof, where she bases her drink Véronique Rivest, today’s bartenders, mixologists, somme- entreprenuer who had noticed a creations on what she likes per- bartenders and sommeliers liers and their customers. This steady decline in the quality of sonally, not on trends. Customer are creating their own rules comes at a time when Canada’s alcoholic beverages being sold. favourites include the “Lavender award-winning bartenders and “In this culture, nobody knows Hound” ($9), a unique blend BY JENNIFER FEBBRARO sommeliers are being hired for what good is, and everyone of lavender gin, red grapefruit, their creativity and innovation, thinks ‘OK’ is great,” she notes. lemon and maldon and Satriale’s their ability to translate a mood Agg surmises she’s been success- Iced Tea ($11) made with with a single sip and their well- ful because she cares about the Amaro, Averna, Earl Grey gin, attuned sense of smell. Three quality of the drinks she serves. cucumber, lemon soda and salt. such individuals sat down with “Canada has a young food cul- And, Agg isn’t slowing down. F&H to share their inspirations, ture; we have a young culture Last year, she opened another philosophies and advice. in general and that’s pervasive,” drink-focused establishment — she says. “But I push for quality Rhum Corner, a creative take on and keep away from all the BS.” the Haitian café. The casual bar, conveniently located next to the Black Hoof, features an array of rums that are not available at your typical liquor store. One of the popular drinks is the Fresco ($10), which features a blend of pomegranate syrup, falernum (a Caribbean ginger-lime syrup) and imported Havana rum. Agg’s favourite is “Daiq’d Up” ($12), a double rum and Coke topped with a frozen lime. It’s another quality drink from the prolific entrepreneur. PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM [BARTENDER PREPARING COCKTAIL] PREPARING PHOTO: DREAMSTIME.COM [BARTENDER

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER 2014 39 POURING FOR PROFITS

classics is necessary. “Though it Pervenches from Farnham and is important to stay current, it Vignoble du Marathonien from doesn’t matter how good your Havelock. cocktail list is if you cannot Nevertheless, Rivest loves offer a guest a unique experi- sparkling wines best, noting ence,” he says. that many Canadian drink- ers don’t realize that some of VERONIQUE RIVEST the most incredible bottles In 2013, Véronique Rivest come from Canada. Four of became Canada’s top sommelier, her favourite sparklers include: placing second at the World’s Nova Scotia’s Benjamin Bridge, Best Sommelier Competition in which she compares to some Tokyo. In doing so, she became of the best Champagnes in the the first female to take the podi- world, Quebec’s L’Orpailleur um. Rivest spent years preparing Brut, Ontario’s Henry of Pelham for the competition. During time Cuvée Catharine Brut and B.C.’s off from her day job as the GM Blue Mountain Brut. JENNER CORMIER THOUGH IT IS and sommelier at Les Fougères Meanwhile, Rivest notes that Originally from Halifax, Jenner IMPORTANT TO in Chelsea, Que., she trained her wines from muscat grapes are Cormier, Canada’s 2013 Diageo “ STAY CURRENT, senses by blindfolding herself to hot sellers, while orange wines World Class Bartender of the IT DOESN’T learn how to discern a Riesling are for imbibers who want Year, now calls Toronto home. MATTER HOW from a Grüner Veltliner. something more experimental.

And, although the 28-year-old When it comes to recom- (Orange wine is made by mac- drink-slinger has worked in GOOD YOUR mending wine, Rivest under- erating the skins in with the Halifax, where he was involved COCKTAIL LIST IS stands it’s not about offering flesh of the grapes, granting it in the opening of The Middle IF YOU CANNOT “ guests what she likes. “There is a brownish hue and an almost Spoon Desserterie & Cocktail OFFER A GUEST a ‘rock star’ or ‘celebrity status’ bruised apple aroma.) Bar and the Noble cocktail A UNIQUE that is wrongly attached to the Having recently judged a lounge, he’s now surveying EXPERIENCE image of what a sommelier provincial sommelier competi- Toronto’s cocktail scene, having does. Many people, for instance, tion in Ontario, Rivest offers bartended at hubs such as Home will design a wine menu based advice to industry newcomers: of the Brave, a new King Street away anytime soon.” on their personal favourites, as “Persevere. No one wins com- West lounge and the Toronto But the explosion in cocktail opposed to reflecting — who petitions at 21, and there is a International Film Festival. experimentation and house- is the clientele, what’s on the reason for that.” She adds: “In Cormier’s main gig is work- made ingredients, such as bitters menu?” she says. wine-tasting, age is a bonus — ing with Diageo as a Canadian and shrubs, is inspired by today’s Last month, Rivest opened it connotes experience.” l Ambassador and drink consul- educated consumer. “People are Soif (French for ‘thirst’), tant for the U.K.-based company begging to really understand a wine bar in Gatineau, that touts a collection of alcohol and learn about what they are Que. “But don’t expect brands, including spirits, beer drinking,” explains Cormier. “It’s to see any ‘cool’ wines and wine. similar to how people are con- on the menu,” laughs “Toronto’s an inspiring place cerned about their diet and pay the owner. Rivest likes to for the cocktail industry,” says attention to the ingredients of curate a diverse wine list, the surfer-turned-serious bar- their food.” including many ‘under- tender. “And there are a lot of One of Cormier’s enduring dogs’ of the wine indus- trends we are seeing — with favourite drinks is the Sazerac try, those made in small Sherry, for example, which has with a base of cognac or rye. “I quantities, from organic also seen a big boom in London, like to add three or four dashes ingredients and mostly England and the U.S.” Cormier of Peychaud’s Bitters, a little locally made. These are also names Agave-based spirits simple syrup, and a couple of the wines she knows as an upcoming trend. “Tequila ounces of George Dickel Rye and loves — the ones and Mezcal have been gaining Wisky,” says Cormier. “Then “made with passion” attention from international I finish the drink with a zest she says. They include bartenders. That’s not going of lemon.” Understanding the Quebec wines Les

40 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER 2014 FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM EQUIPMENT

nduction equipment is IF THE heating up, as supply Iexpands to fit grow- SUITE FITS ing needs. Product lines Induction technologies are have multiplied to include increasing efficiencies as everything from counter- HOW SUITE IT IS cooking island add-ons top single and multi-hob Induction is a key com- ponent in many cooking burners to drop-in warm- suites, although all have BY DENISE DEVEAU ing units, woks and plan- unique options, including those at Toronto’s chas (for grilling). There’s Humber College (above even talk about induction and far left, top), Holland fryers coming to market College in Charlottetown (bottom), and those pro- soon. And, induction vided through Montague technology is finding a (above). The SinAqua from Cooktek has an home in kitchen suites induction-based, water- across the country. less drop-in food well (left) In Toronto, the Hum- ber College culinary induction labs showcase combi-ovens comprise cooktops with convection the latest innovations. the bulk of cooking ovens and under-the- Shonah Chalmers, pro- needs,” she says. “But counter refrigeration gram coordinator for many more [chefs] are and storage. Students the school’s Culinary using induction, and work on smaller suites Skills and Culinary we wanted to be on the with two burners and Management program, edge. Students need that gas ovens. says it’s very much in exposure.” Patrick Watt, con- keeping with the future At Humber, induction sultant with A Day direction of cooking. technology is integrated in Life Foodservice “Today, convection is into two cooking suites Development in Saint primarily found on the used by chef instructors. John, N.B., confirms baking and pastry side; The islands combine induction is playing a and traditional gas or four-burner induction big role in island suite

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A SUITE SOLUTION designs. “Garland [in holding drawers, refrig- into suites,” he notes, add- Mississauga, Ont.] has eration, plumbing and ing that induction burn- When it came time to replace the aging appliances at The built some heavy-duty garbage disposal func- ers give more options Old Fish Factory Restaurant in Lunenburg, N.S., owner induction units that drop tions. Add-ons can also for fitting fridges and Alan Creaser invested in a customized cooking suite, which in nicely to an island include pass-through ovens into cooking suites. includes the latest induction technology. suite. [Stockholm-based] and overhead shelves “Before ovens had to be He commissioned a suite configuration from Oakville, Ont.- Electrolux has also done as well as rails and spe- placed directly under based Tarrison that includes a new induction cooktop with four 3,000-watt induction burners. “We used to have six elec- well with this,” he says. cialty warmers. “Culinary elements. Now you have tric burners. There’s a huge difference between the amount And, incorporating schools really love them; much more flexibility.” of heat we used to generate and what we do now, because induction cooktops into their suites have pizzazz. The best suites have a induction only heats when something is on the burner,” suite designs helps create I’ve also seen small, basic single point of connec- Creaser explains. “We did have to do an electrical upgrade narrower surfaces, mak- ones at café sites,” the tion for gas, electrical and because of the power requirements. But nothing can touch ing a smaller footprint consultant says. water/drainage. “When it induction for speed and cost.” that requires less ventila- Tod Olson, project comes to doing rough-ins, The all-in-one suite on wheels has a 72-inch base with tion. “Then you can do manager for Trimen Food you only have to run one a four-foot work surface and a 24- x 36-inch grill from Fort raised grills and drop-in Service Equipment, Inc., connection into the curb Wayne, Ind.-based AccuTemp. The induction station, includ- fryers,” Watt adds. “The a distributor in Toronto, mounting. That’s a ben- ing the base and cooktop, costs approximately $14,800 big leap however is in won a 2011 Montague efit on the construction — $10,000 for the cooktop, $4,800 for the refrigerated base — and an additional $5,200 for the griddle. warming capabilities, Suite Dreams Design side,” Olson notes. Now everything is much more efficient — mussels can be which I wouldn’t be competition. Since then At Holland College’s ready to serve in just two minutes, compared to the usual six. surprised to see go into he has witnessed many Canada’s Smartest “Induction is efficient, fast and cuts down on excess heat and island suites soon.” cooking suite innovations. Kitchen, a research and energy. The staff and chef love it. And the cost of replacing Suites can be con- “[Induction is] getting development centre in pots and pans wasn’t that huge, about $1,500,” Creaser says. figured to incorporate integrated more and more Charlottetown, a sub-

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stantial cooking suite hardwiring for induction prep on the opposite Franworks Group of tion of a cooking suite. with six induction burn- and plumbing. side,” he says, adding Companies, which oper- “Take the cost of a nor- ers is used for product And, while a suite that the latest innovation ates locations under the mal cooking line and add development. Four peo- suits a research centre’s he has seen is a single- Original Joe’s Restaurant 30 to 40 per cent to that, ple can work comfort- needs, it’s not always the depth, double-sided & Bar, State & Main because of the finishing, ably on it, says Michael right choice for all opera- suite design. Kitchen Bar as well as detailing and assembly Bryanton, research tions. “I can see it in a A kitchen suite can Elephant & Castle Pub involved,” Watt says. and development chef. hotel prep kitchen, but also be difficult to and Restaurant brands, But, suite or no suite, Add-ons include a grill, sometimes you get a bet- reconfigure since it’s understands the limita- there is one unusual charbroiler and below- ter workflow in a typical highly customized. And tions of small spaces. problem chefs should the-counter refrigera- linear setup, depending if the kitchen is run- “A middle island can beware of when working tion units. There is also on the menu and if you ning gas, it requires a take up a ton of kitchen with induction, accord- a built-in sink, work need to configure set chimney, which could space, because you need ing to Susan Somerville, surfaces and a garbage pieces,” says Bryanton. restrict flexibility when so much area around dean of the School of collection space. “Having Olson agrees that not designing a system. “The it. Without a linear Hospitality, Recreation something in the centre all kitchens are ideal for upside is you can do [configuration], refrig- and Tourism for Hum- of the kitchen is a great a cooking suite. “You some funky things with eration setup can be ber College. It turns benefit location-wise, need to have a full walk- design. Montague out of tough,” Prescesky says, out some chefs ruined because we can place around area, because you [Hayward] California has noting that his kitchen their computers when other equipment around are working with twice as some of the nicest ones,” operations are run within placing them near the the perimeter. It’s a good much depth as a standard Watt notes. 3,900 to 5,300 sq. ft. stovetops, which have way to maximize space,” setup where you have the Jordan Prescesky, VP, Price, like space, can magnetic properties. says Bryanton. The unit hood against one wall Research and Develop- also be a challenge when “They learned the hard is stationary to enable and workspace and cold ment for Calgary-based considering the installa- way,” she quips. l

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FIELD DEFENDER David Gunawan lets the ingredients do the talking at Farmer’s Apprentice BY JACKIE SLOAT-SPENCER

n Chinese culture, festivals are a pretty big deal. In fact, it was dur- take something, cut it up, put it in the pan and call it our creation.” ing family food prep for these monthly celebrations in Singapore Partnerships with 15 farmers have afforded Gunawan intel on his pro- Iwhere chef David Gunawan was introduced to cooking. duce’s growing conditions and climate, he says, and he likes to honour Later, as a civil engineering student working part-time in the kitch- each ingredient by keeping it as close to its natural form as possible. en of a West Lafayette, Ind. restaurant, the Singapore native found “We get some of the best fruits from the region; you don’t want me to himself drawn to the behind-the-scenes lifestyle. “When everyone’s process those. [They’re] too nice to do anything to them,” he explains. working, you’re just waking up. [That was the] attraction, just being in The chef designs a daily evolving menu of farm-fresh ingredients, the background of society,” says the 33-year-old, who later abandoned which has included Heritage Mangalitsa pork with turnips, apricot engineering in favour of a hot stove. mostarda and mustard ($30) and a decidedly eastern-inspired dish of Over the next few years, the young self-taught chef worked his way Tamarind glazed sweetbreads, with cabbage, green curry and peanuts up the ladder, traversing the globe, jumping from cooking positions ($16) to appeal to Vancouver’s diverse Asian population. at Les Nomades in Chicago and West restaurant in Vancouver, to the Business at the cosy 28-seat restaurant (with an additional 10 seats acclaimed In De Wulf in Belgium, where he learned to inject his per- on the patio) is booming, averaging 80 to 90 covers and $4,000 in sales sonality into dishes. “When I got back from Europe I had a voice; I had on weekend nights. It’s garnered even more attention since Vancouver an opinion about food,” Gunawan recalls. Magazine dubbed Farmer’s Apprentice the city’s Best New Restaurant So, after helping open Wildebeest in Vancouver, he left to strike out and Best Casual-Dining restaurant.

on his own. Last summer, Farmer’s Apprentice Restaurant was born, “The most important thing is we abide by our own principles and PHOTOS: VENTURI + KARPA [DAVID GUNAWAN]; DREAMSTIME.COM [BITS & BITES] taking the city by storm with its hyper-local mandate and nearly all- philosophy, and we have integrity, and that is enough to justify what we organic menu. “We embody what is sustainable, what is ecologically do,” the chef sums up. He dreams of opening a restaurant on a farm. “If conscious, having a sense of awareness of the environment,” Gunawan we can do this on a larger scale, it will make a bigger impact in terms of describes, of the moniker. “As chefs, we seem to over-glorify ourselves. a local movement. Having that sort of independent restaurant flourish- We never pay tribute to the person who gives us the food.... We just ing under the farm-to-table movement is important for the future.” l

BITS & BITES Comfort Food Favourite Kitchen Craving: “I like a Technique: “If I had bowl of noodles. the means, I would

 It could be of any do open-flame cultural reference [cooking]... I just Favourite Fall — ramen, it could like that primitive Ingredient: “I be pho, it could be factor in using really like kale in beef noodles.” open flame.” the fall. It’s a lot  sweeter than in the summer.” Best Job Perk: “At this phase  of my life, it’s teaching people how to cook and the integrity of cooking.”

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