Exploring Boston's Religious History

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Exploring Boston’s Religious History

It is impossible to understand Boston without knowing something about its religious past. The city was founded in 1630 by settlers from England, Other Historical Destinations in popularly known as Puritans, Downtown Boston who wished to build a model Christian community. Their “city on a hill,” as Governor Old South Church Granary Burying Ground John Winthrop so memorably 645 Boylston Street Tremont Street, next to Park Street put it, was to be an example to On the corner of Dartmouth and Church, all the world. Central to this Boylston Streets Park Street T Stop goal was the establishment of Copley T Stop Burial Site of Samuel Adams and others independent local churches, in which all members had a voice New North Church (Now Saint Copp’s Hill Burying Ground and worship was simple and Stephen’s) Hull Street participatory. These Puritan 140 Hanover Street Haymarket and North Station T Stops religious ideals, which were Boston’s North End Burial Site of the Mathers later embodied in the Congregational churches, Site of Old North Church King’s Chapel Burying Ground shaped Boston’s early patterns (Second Church) Tremont Street, next to King’s Chapel of settlement and government, 2 North Square Government Center T Stop as well as its conflicts and Burial Site of John Cotton, John Winthrop controversies. Not many John Winthrop's Home Site and others original buildings remain, of Near 60 State Street course, but this tour of Boston’s “old downtown” will take you to sites important to the story of American Congregationalists, to their religious neighbors, and to one (617) 523-0470 of the nation’s oldest and most www.CongregationalLibrary.org intriguing cities. 14 Beacon Street [email protected] Boston, MA 02108

Congregational House: 14 Beacon Park Street Proceed down Tremont and past the Granary Burying Ground (if you are so inclined, stop in for a visit) to the corner of Tremont and Park.

Corner of Tremont and Park the top of Beacon Hill. Streets Park Street has a long and colorful

history. William Lloyd Garrison, the Park Street Church was organized in famous abolitionist, gave his first anti- 1809, when all but one of Boston’s slavery speech in its pulpit; the song Congregational churches (Old South) “My Country ‘Tis of Thee” was sung for the first time on Park Street’s steps. The first Protestant missionaries to Hawaii were commissioned in the sanctuary, and evangelist Billy Gra- ham’s began his famous Boston Cru- sade here in 1950. Park Street Church sits on Boston’s famous “brimstone corner,” a site long associated with Leave the Congregational House and cross Beacon to the opposite protest and free speech—one reason side of the street, near City Convenience. Look up at the Congrega- why its Mayflower Pulpit jutting out tional House building façade. from a second-storey window in the front of the church, still faces Boston The building which stands at 14 Bea- tional House hosts a diverse array of Common. con Street, just half a block from the nonprofit organizations, as well as the Massachusetts State House, was for Congregational Library and Archive. Today Park Street is a thriving church many years the unofficial headquarters with multiple worship services on of the Congregational churches in the The front façade of the building in- Sunday. It is also a site of the Free- United States. Completed in 1898, it cludes four large bas-reliefs, each de- had become Unitarian. Park Street’s dom Trail, and during the spring and housed many denominational organiza- picting an important ideal of the Con- founding members were determined summer months historical displays and tions, including the original Library and gregational churches. The bas-reliefs to restore an orthodox presence in tours are available for all visitors free the American Board of Commission- are carved from Knoxville marble, downtown Boston. They selected a of charge. ers for Foreign Missions, the nation’s known for its pinkish-gray coloring, prominent street corner and erected a oldest Protestant missionary society. and are six feet wide and five feet tall. building with a spire measurably taller In subsequent years, 14 Beacon Street They were originally designed by Do- than the Massachusetts State House at would become an address familiar to mingo Mora, a Spaniard who was una- Congregationalists around the world. ble to continue his work due to the

Spanish-American War of 1898. We hope you enjoyed your short journey into Boston’s religious past. In the 1960s, most of the Congrega- Mora’s work was completed by tional Christian churches became part Stadtler, a Swiss artist who worked Those who want to know more are always welcome at the Congrega- of the United Church of Christ, and from plaster casts when carving the tional Library & Archive (we are open Monday through Friday, 9:00 a.m. the denominational agencies followed tableaux on the building. to 5:00 p.m.). With advance notice we are glad to conduct tours for to new headquarters in New York and visitors. later Cleveland. Today the Congrega-

Tremont Temple Religious Faith Law Cross Tremont Street and turn left, heading toward Citizens Bank. Continue down Tremont until you are about halfway down the block, just outside 73 Tremont, and look across the street.

88 Tremont Street

By the early nineteenth century, Con- gregationalists had many religious neighbors on Beacon Hill. In 1838 Timothy Gilbert, an antislavery activist, left the wealthy Charles Street Baptist Church to protest their refusal to seat an African American in his rented pew. The first carving, looking from left to The second carving depicts the sign- Gilbert’s “free church,” later named right, commemorates the Pilgrims’ ing of the Mayflower Compact on

Tremont Temple, opened its sanctuary observance of the Sabbath on Clark’s November 11, 1620, in Cape Cod to anyone who wished to worship and Island in Plymouth Bay on Sunday, Harbor (Provincetown). The tableau thus became one of the city’s first December 20, 1620, and speaks to represents the Puritan belief that interracial congregations. the ideal that one should “worship there should be “rule under law by

according to conscience.” consent of the governed.”

By the late nineteenth century, Trem- ont Temple’s large theatre-style build- Education Philanthropy The present building was erected ing was Boston’s largest indoor space. after fire destroyed the previous one The church helped pay its bills by rent- in 1893, and it was modeled after a ing its facilities to all comers—revivals, Venetian palace. By the early 1900s animal shows, abolitionist meetings, Tremont Temple was nationally fa- and political rallies. In its early years, mous for vigorous revival preaching the Congregational Library even rent- and for the thousands of people from ed space in the old Tremont Temple rural New England, the Canadian building. Maritimes, and around the world who flocked to the “stranger’s Sabbath home,” sometimes impeding traffic on Tremont Street. Today the church houses several racial-ethnic congregations. The third carving represents the ideal The final carving shows John Eliot The Granary Burying Ground is of “education for service” and shows preaching among the Native Ameri- across the street from Tremont Tem- the General Court of Massachusetts cans at Waban’s Wigwam, Nonantum ple and just below the windows of founding Harvard College at New- in 1642 and symbolizes the ideal of Congregational House. It is the final town (Cambridge) in October of philanthropy and “community wit- resting place of many members of 1636. ness.” Third Church, including “witch judge” The Granary Burying Ground Samuel Sewall.

King’s Chapel & King’s Chapel Burying Ground The First Congregational House Continue up School Street and cross to the other side at the cross- From the sidewalk in front of City Convenience, facing the walk in front of Old City Hall. Keep walking up School Street until you Congregational House, proceed left, to the corner of Beacon arrive at King’s Chapel. and Somerset, walking away from the State House. Stop at the corner. Corner of School and many of its most famous members are Tremont Streets buried here: John Cotton and Gover- nor John Winthrop, as well as Hezeki- The Corner of Beacon & ah Usher, the colony’s first printer King’s Chapel was the Anglican church Somerset Streets and publisher, and Charles Bulfinch, established by Edmund Andros, who famed architect of many Boston land- The Library’s original home was a man- was appointed royal governor by King marks. sion at 23 Chauncy Street (near the old James II in 1686. Needless to say,

Jordan’s and Filene’s department stores Andros was not a popular figure in in Downtown Crossing). In 1871, after Boston, and during his three short the collection had outgrown this space, years as governor was forced to re- the American Congregational Associa- main at home for fear of his safety. tion purchased the Somerset Club The colonists were used to managing House and the Gardner Estate, owned their own affairs, and they resented by the family of Boston philanthropist ed a central location for Congrega- the presence of an Anglican chapel in Isabella Stewart Gardner. The two tional organizations previously sited all the heart of Congregational Boston. buildings were remodeled and two around the city. The reading room years later, in 1873, the first Congrega- was large and gracious, and the Library The King’s Chapel Burying Ground is tional House was dedicated. collection continued to grow. To help right next door to the Church, down cover costs, the Congregational Tremont Street. Though named for its This building, sitting at the very top of House also rented space to several proximity to the Chapel, its historic Boston’s oldest neighborhood, provid- businesses, including a carpet company connection is with First Church, and and Professor Robert R. Raymond’s School of Oratory and Elocution.

In the 1870s and 1880s the Congrega- For a small contribution you may visit tional House at the corner of Beacon inside King’s Chapel. The central and Somerset was fast becoming the aisle, the fenced altar section, the denomination’s spiritual home. It was stained glass and ornamentation, and the physical expression of a growing the pulpit set off to one side pose a unity, gathering ground after the sharp contrast to the spare interior of churches joined together under the Third Church, symbolizing the deep framework of a National Council in social and theological differences be- 1871. But the Somerset Street building tween Anglicans and Congregational- was also becoming too small. In 1896, ists. the building was sold and lots purchased at 12 and 14 Beacon Street, where the Congregational House stands today.

French Huguenot Church John Cotton

Cross to the other side of Washington Street and across the Turn down Somerset and cross the street when able. Across square in front of Borders to the corner of School Street. Turn from Suffolk University’s Nathan B. Miller Residence Hall you left up School Street and continue a short way until you reach will see a set of stairs. These steps will lead to a large plaza. 24 School Street. You will find a plaque on the left side of the Cross the plaza to the shorter of the two round brick struc- entrance. tures. Pemberton Square – Plaque Commemorating the “French Saints,” there are records of Plaque Commemorating John private complaints about the Hugue- Cotton French Huguenot Church not tradition of celebrating Christmas (which many in the Colony would John Cotton (1585-1652) was the Boston’s first French Huguenot have considered idolatry) and kissing minister of the St. Botolph’s church in Church was organized in 1716 by in public. Boston, Lincolnshire, England. A Protestant refugees from France. Its learned and highly respected leader of appearance marks a new stage in Bos- The church, whose membership in- the Puritan movement, he ran afoul of ton’s religious history: after Massachu- cluded Peter Faneuil of Faneuil Hall Anglican Archbishop Laud, the leader invite him to be their pastor. setts Bay lost its original charter and of the Church of England who regard- fame, was always small and it disband- Cotton became a major figure in Bos- fell under the authority of the English ed him as a dangerous upstart. Cotton ed in 1748. The building was sold to ton’s cultural and religious life; the city crown in 1684, new laws required th left for New England to become min- the 11 Congregational Church, and in fact took its name from his former “toleration” of other Protestant faiths. ister of Boston’s First Church in 1633, then became the site of the city’s first church in Lincolnshire. He was in- The path was not always smooth, public Roman Catholic mass, celebrat- sharing his duties with John Wilson. however. Although Boston authorities volved in controversies with Anne ed by French naval chaplain l’Abbe de Hutchinson and Roger Williams, both did set aside some money to assist the la Poterie in 1788. When Cotton arrived here he was granted no special rank or privilege. under fire for disturbing the close-knit Congregational churches emphasized doctrinal unity of the city’s Puritan the equality of all members and re- churches. He was also a prolific writer, quired everyone to provide a public penning several treatises and the pref- account of their conversion and to ace to the Cambridge Platform of promise to live an upright life. Cotton 1648, a document known as the therefore had to stand for questioning “constitution” of the Congregational by the congregation and, once admit- churches. Cotton was also one of the ted to membership, wait for them to chief contributors/translators of the Bay Psalm Book, the first book pub- lished in the Massachusetts Bay Colo- ny.

This plaque notes the site of Cotton’s home on Pemberton Hill, one of the three hills on the original Shawmut Peninsula where Boston was founded (the other two are Beacon and Fort Hill, forming the “Trimountain,” from whence Tremont Street got its name).

The North End Old South Meeting House

Turn towards 3 Center Plaza and take the steps located between 2 Continue down Washington Street, headed towards Old South and 3 Center Plaza. These will take you to Tremont Street. Using the Meeting House on the corner of Washington and Milk Streets. crosswalk directly in front of the stairs, cross Tremont half-way, paus- ing on the triangular island in the middle of the street. Ahead and 310 Washington Street deered the Third Church sanctuary for an Anglican service on Easter Sun- slightly to the left, you will see City Hall. Use this as your point of ref- erence for the next two sites. Boston’s Third Church was formed in day, held while angry parishioners 1669 by members of First Church who were forced to wait outside in the cold. On December 16, 1773, the The North End is one of Boston’s objected to the “Half-Way Covenant.” This was a measure instituted by the Boston Tea Party began with a meet- oldest and most religiously diverse ing in the Old South sanctuary, where neighborhoods. To the left of City Congregational churches allowing a special form of membership for people Sam Adams called on his Sons of Lib- Hall, you can see the spire of the Old erty to get rid of the tea sitting on North Church, where Paul Revere is who were not able or ready to give a public testimony of faith. Halfway ships nearby in the harbor. said to have hung his famous lanterns. Founded in 1723, it was the second members could have their children British authorities did not forget. They Anglican church—the official church of baptized but could not participate in turned Old South into a riding school the English crown—to be built in Bos- the Lord’s Supper (a community ob- for British cavalry, tearing out the ton. servance memorializing the death of pews and burning them, as well as a Christ). Proponents of the controver- good portion of Rev. Thomas Prince’s The North End was also home to a sial measure hoped it would keep famous library. number of Congregational churches, families coming to church and under New North Church including Second Church, established the regular influence of Sunday ser- Third Church, also called South in 1650 for those living in the area. mons. Opponents worried that it Church because of its location, be- The so-called “church of the Mathers” most notoriously in the witch trials of would create lukewarm faith. came Old South in 1717 after another ordained many famous ministers, in- the 1690s, but was more widely New South was organized nearby. The Like many of Boston’s Congregational cluding Increase, Cotton, and Samuel known for his wide learning and schol- building you see now was built in churches Old South played a political Mather, as well as Ralph Waldo Emer- arly accomplishments. 1730, remaining behind as an historic as well as religious role. In the 1680s, son. Cotton Mather, grandson of First structure after the congregation relo- when the English crown sent Edmund Church’s John Cotton, participated North End Congregationalists had a cated to the Back Bay in 1875. Andros as governor, he comman- complicated history. In 1714 a group of congregants broke off from Second If you wish to see more of Old South Church and formed New North you may enter for a small fee. The Church (see etching). Later, a group interior provides a wonderful example from New North left to form the of Congregational architecture, with New Brick Church. When Second box pews and a plain white interior Church’s building was ordered torn devoid of stained glass or religious down for firewood in 1775—their images. There is no central aisle or an minister John Lathrop was an ardent altar; a small wooden Communion patriot—the displaced congregation table simply lifted up from the base of joined with the New Brick Church. the pulpit. The pulpit, set high and in Second Church moved to the Back the center of the long wall, highlights Bay in 1914, and joined with First the Congregational insistence on the Church in 1970. preached word rather than liturgy or sacraments.

Anne Hutchinson’s House The “Manifesto” Church

Continue walking along Devonshire until you reach Water To the Right of City Hall Street. Turn right onto Water headed toward Washington Street. Stop at Washington and look across the street To the right of City Hall (the south- gan, a sharp contrast to the plain, una- west corner of the building) is the dorned worship typical of Congrega- likely location of Boston’s Fourth Con- tional churches. gregational Church. It was also known Corner of School and General Court of Massachusetts, as the Brattle Street Church, for the Benjamin Coleman, Brattle Street’s first charged with maligning the ministers Washington Streets family donating the land, and as the minister, was also a great supporter of of the colony. At first she matched her Manifesto Church, because of its pub- the First Great Awakening, an upsurge Anne Marbury Hutchinson was born in accusers text by biblical text. But lic disagreements with Congregational of religious fervor in the 1730s and Alford, England in 1591. She married when the case against her actually practice around church membership. 1740s. He hosted the famous English William Hutchinson in 1612 and emi- looked like it might fail, she sealed her preacher George Whitefield and grated to New England in 1634, fol- fate with the insistence that she had Founded in 1698, Brattle Street re- helped publicize the work of North- lowing her pastor John Cotton, whom such a close relationship with God flected growing dissatisfaction with the ampton pastor Jonathan Edwards, one she much admired. that she could actually hear “his own strict standards laid down by the early of the Awakening’s most fervent advo- spirit in my soul.” This was too much settlers. While the first Congregation- cates. Soon after the Hutchinson family set- for the assembled clergy, who found alists had required public testimony of tled in Boston and joined the First her guilty of insubordination and ban- personal conversion for all new mem- The etching below depicts Brattle Church, Anne began holding meetings ished her from the Massachusetts Bay bers, Brattle Street required only evi- Street’s second building, completed in in her house where church members Colony. dence of “visible sanctity.” Instead of 1773 after a previous wooden struc- discussed the sermon from the previ- requiring a lengthy commentary every ture was demolished. In 1871, shortly ous Sunday. Such meetings were not Six days after the Court’s ruling, Anne time the Bible was read in Sunday after the congregation moved to ele- necessarily a problem—good Congre- and her family moved to Rhode Island worship, the church allowed members gant new quarters in the Back Bay, it gationalists were expected to take the and, a few years later, to what is now the freedom to listen and reflect on disbanded and the building became preached word very seriously—but it Pelham Bay, New York. There Anne their own. Brattle Street was also the home to the First Baptist Church. was unsettling to have a woman in and her entire family save one were first church in Boston to have an or- charge. As Anne’s group grew to sixty killed in a raid by Native Americans in or more, and as she became increas- 1643. ingly critical of the Boston clergy, she attracted trouble.

Anne Hutchinson and the “Antinomians” who shared her criti- cisms worried that the Congregational churches were overemphasizing good behavior as a means of salvation, espe- cially with their strict requirements for membership. Only the grace of God could save, she argued, and anything else smacked of pride.

In 1637 Anne went on trial before the

First Church Quaker Meeting House

Finish crossing Tremont to the right side of Court Street, opposite Turn right down Devonshire Street, and walk until you reach the first Starbucks. Continue along Court Street, crossing Washington Street three-way intersection. and passing the Old State House. Stop on the sidewalk behind the Old State House and look to your right at the Wine & Spirits Store, located just to the left of the 1st National Bank of Ipswich.

State & Devonshire Streets constructing public buildings out of wood. The new First Church, known The founding of First Church in 1630 as “Old Brick,” is visible in the back- marks the founding of Boston. The ground of Paul Revere’s famous etch- first members originally settled in ing of the Boston Massacre. Charlestown in 1628, but were unable to find a good water supply; they glad- In the early 1700s, First Church minis- ly accepted John Blaxton’s invitation to ter Charles Chauncy became a leading join him on the nearby Shawmut Pen- critic of the Great Awakening and the insula where Boston is now located. highly emotional style of religion associated with it. Under Chauncy the The original First Church building, a church shifted its identity from Con- simple thatched-roof meetinghouse gregational to Unitarian, and parted erected in 1632, was the nucleus of ways with strict Calvinist orthodoxy. the developing town, located near the In 1880, the Church celebrated its waterfront and the Town House. The 250th anniversary by moving to Com- congregation rebuilt in 1711 after a monwealth Avenue in the Back Bay, fire destroyed their sanctuary and the where it still resides. city passed an ordinance forbidding Devonshire Street and Quak- ty. It did not help matters when a er Lane group of Quakers came up from

Rhode Island, naked and covered in In the early 1700s a Quaker meeting soot, to denounce the wickedness of house stood on this spot. This was a Third (Old South) Church in their significant achievement since for many meetinghouse. decades Quakers had been forbidden to enter the Massachusetts Bay Colo- In 1684, however, the English crown ny; those who persisted, including revoked the Colony’s original charter, Mary Dyer, were executed. Quakers and Massachusetts Bay became subject to English law, including an Act of were known for their fervent, some- Toleration issued in 1689. This meant times ecstatic religious practices, that Congregationalists could no long- based on their conviction that God’s er maintain their religious monopoly in “inner light” resided in every human Boston, and soon Quakers, Baptists, heart. This individualistic spirituality Anglicans, and others began to gain a put them at odds with the Congrega- visible presence on the outskirts of tional churches, which emphasized the Beacon Hill. importance of the gathered communi-