N.Y. FashionThe We Inside: Pg. 27 CHINA HIT LIST/3 DEBATING THE ISSUES/28-29 WWD

Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • September 30, 2004 • $2.00 List ekFavo rite WWDTHURSDAY s Sportswear Polly Wants A — Miuccia Prada, who launched the trend for eccentric femininity that has ruled the runways for several seasons now, went in a new direction this time. Her terrific spring collection for Prada, in fact, was full of tailored, even sporty looks, along with others that were more embellished, featuring, for example, embroidery and appliqué. Here, her playful shift with an appliquéd parrot, part of a bird motif in the line. For more on the shows, see pages 8 to 11. Seeking Russian Gold: Despite Turmoil, Brands RushtoBooming Market By WWD Staff PARIS — When “Jenny From the Block” — better known as Jennifer Lopez — decides to open her first store in the world in Moscow, you know something is going on in the neighborhood. Indeed, and retail firms are heading to Russia in droves, attracted by a vibrant economy, a free-spending elite and what’s perceived as pent-up demand for style and status. While there is nervousness about the market and its stability — fueled by the Beslan terrorist attacks earlier this month, the murder of the American editor of Russian Forbes See Brands, Page12 PHOTO BY MAURICIO MIRANDA MAURICIO PHOTO BY WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION In Milan, Prada went tailored, Burberry Prorsum got citified, ™ 8 showed variety at and Angela Missoni hit the right notes. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based GENERAL on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated Fashion and retail firms are heading to Russia in droves, attracted by a 1 vibrant economy, a free-spending elite and a demand for style and status. LOOKING BACK The U.S. textile industry plans to file China safeguard petitions as early as Today’s best styles borrow from previous decades 3 Oct. 7 against 20 import categories valued at over $2 billion last year. With the first debate between President Bush and Sen. John Kerry set for “Last night, I decided to have a ‘me’ night. delicious colors like lime, mango, coral and fuschia.” 28 tonight, where they stand on the issues will further crystallize with voters. I stocked up on all of the fall fashion magazines and Color is definitely an important factor in retro- rented some old classic films,” relates Deb, a 34-year inspired dressing, agree the experts, both for now and old working mother of one. “I couldn’t believe that the coming spring season. “The palettes are very soft MARKETS some of the more beautiful and elegant on the and feminine in keeping with the styling,” maintains DENIM DISH: Calvin’s Choice in denim…Carhartt jeans on auction…Mavi screen looked remarkably like the styles on the pages Brooks. “Look for greens, yellows and lilacs. There 24 steps it up…Lee Denim Day eyes $7.5M…YMI’s ad push. of the current magazines.” She continues, “I’ve always will also be plenty of florals.” Details will be in ACTIVE: Smaller firms and niche brands, facing the dominance of Nike, loved Breakfast at Tiffany’s for Audrey Hepburn’s abundance as well. “There are ruffles, bows and ties and 25 Adidas and Puma, are embarking on strategies to pump up business. unbelievable sense of style, and other very feminine details; women BEAT: Spring was in the air at two trade shows in Manhattan, the venerable it’s great to see little cocktail want to feel pretty,” she adds. 26 Fashion Coterie and newbie The Train New York. dresses, elegant skirts, cardigan “There is a decidedly feminine sweaters, turtlenecks and belted feel to all of the looks,” asserts trench coats offered today.” Horowitz. “And with that, expect EYE “Fashion is definitely showing to see one of the biggest dress “” is a throwback to the prime-time soaps of the its love of history this season, seasons ever; dresses almost 4 Eighties…The Parker hotel rises in the desert…Teen Vogue’s PYTs. with inspiration drawn from always make an elegant and lady- Paris Preview appears on pages 15-23. many decades, including the like statement.” Forties, Fifties and Sixties,” Confirms Novobatzky, “Dresses Classified Advertisements ...... 30-31 observes Betsy Thompson, are very important, and there has To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is spokesperson for Talbot’s, the been great interest in them over [email protected], using the individual’s name. national retailer. “More than the last few months. It used to be WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. ever, women are putting their all about sleeveless, but now, VOLUME 188, NO. 69. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional own stamp on their wardrobes women are finally receptive to issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three by mixing new favorites with sleeves, mostly cut at the elbow.” additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 retro finds, dressy eveningwear Today’s retro chic is all about West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; “There is definitely a more ladylike Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, with daytime classics, men’s a melding of items from many Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior wear tailoring with ladylike turn to fashion right now. The looks different decades, according to Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at glamour, clean lines with note- are sweeter and feminine.” Talbot’s Thompson. “There’s the – Robin Brooks, additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration worthy details and shots of poncho, a slightly bohemian nod No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. Luca Luca POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. color with luxe surface interest.” to the Sixties and Seventies, and FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR “There is definitely a more ladylike turn to fashion there’s a floral brooch, which is affordable ladylike DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is right now,” agrees Robin Brooks, spokesperson glamour from the late Forties.” required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production for Luca Luca by Luca Orlandi, a collection of chic Borrowing key items and looks from different correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, fashions for modern women. “The looks are sweeter decades is just one way that today’s styles stand on please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild and feminine.” their own. “The Forties and Fifties were more about magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive “It’s wonderful to take references from the past one look; today, women are making each piece these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. and update them in fashion,” shares Marianne work,” considers Luca Luca’s Brooks. “They are WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND Novobtazky, who owns an eponymous boutique in mixing and matching pieces with jeans and different TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART Manhattan’s Soho District. heels and flats. It’s a look unique to one’s self.” WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED Concurs Shari Horowitz, a fashion consultant and “We are merely taking references from the past TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE trend observer based in New York City, “It just goes and updating it,” affirms Novobatzky. “It’s not ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. to show that what’s old can be new again. Fashion exactly the same thing it was before; our silhouettes right now is taking its are a little looser and the cue from simpler times. Sources of Clothing Ideas waist is dropped slightly.” In Brief However, these looks 03Q2 04Q2 +/- Thompson from Talbot’s themselves are anything adds, “Fabric innovations but simple; they are highly Already Own & Like 69.8% 71.5% 1.7 and clever blends continue ● FINALIZED DEAL: In an effort to increase its off-mall expansion, polished, sophisticated, and Store Displays 56.4% 53.3% -3.1 to keep things current Sears, Roebuck and Co. said Wednesday that a prior agreement classic styles that resonate People See Regularly 39.5% 36.3% -3.2 and, more importantly, with Kmart Holding Corp., in which it will acquire ownership or with so many women.” comfortable for the wearer. leasehold interest in 50 Kmart locations for $575.9 million, has In Catalogs 41.0% 39.7% -1.3 been finalized. Sears has paid 30 percent, or $172 million, of the An air of familiarity is A chameleon fabric like Family Members 32.2% 34.2% 2.0 total purchase amount to Kmart and will pay the remainder when certainly important for cotton has proven key it officially takes over the stores around April 2005. In addition to Commercials and Ads 31.5% 37.5% 6.0 women when shopping because it can take on an the Kmart transaction, Sears confirmed that it will be making for their wardrobes, Fashion Magazines 35.8% 34.0% -1.8 entirely new look thanks to lease payments to Wal-Mart under subleases for six Wal-Mart according to the Cotton Sales People in Stores 16.7% 19.3% 2.6 blending, finishes, washes stores. Thanks to both deals, Sears said it is doubling its store Incorporated Lifestyle or textural weaves.” base in San Diego and significantly increasing the total number of Celebrities 15.4% 20.3% 4.9 Monitor™. When asked All of these options at stores it has in Florida, the Northeast and Puerto Rico. for their sources of clothing ideas, an outstanding retail is precisely what today’s female consumer is ● 71.5% of women credited garments that they seeking, according to the Monitor. When asked GEM SNATCH: Two diamonds, together worth approximately 11.5 million euros, or $14.2 million at current exchange, were already own and like. The second most popular about their typical new clothing purchases, 58.7% stolen Monday from Chopard’s stand at the Biennale des inspiration was store displays with 53.3%. of women stated that they were buying new and Antiquaires held at Paris’ Carrousel du Louvre. A white 47-carat When asked exactly what some of these key retro different, while 37.7% claimed that they were diamond and a blue 15-carat diamond valued at 6 million euros, looks are, Luca Luca’s Brooks points to a well replacing current items. or $7.4 million, and 5.5 million euros, or $6.8 million, respective- coordinated mix of separates. “I think one of the “What we’re seeing today are not replicas from the ly, were stolen between 3 p.m. and 3:30 p.m. from their glass dis- most important looks for the coming season is Luca past, but fresh twists on old favorites,” concludes play case, according to a police spokesman. There were no wit- Luca’s grey knee length skirt with embroidered Thompson. “All you have to do is simply make it all nesses. A spokesman for the Geneva-based jeweler confirmed flowers, paired with a cardigan in lilac with a bow your own.” the theft but declined further comment. at the waist.” Jackets are also important, too, as This story is one in a series of articles based on findings ● SHIP RECH: French fashion house Georges Rech has been Brooks relates. “Little fitted tweed jackets can be from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ granted three months bankruptcy protection by Paris’ commer- worn with pants or skirts. It’s a look that is really tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these pages, cial court. Owned by Swiss equity firm Leman Capital, Rech em- driven by separates.” each story will focus on a specific topic as it relates to the ploys 230 people in and 70 abroad. Leman, which recent- That all important jacket is a smartly fit one today, American women’s wear consumer and her attitudes ly sold its other fashion interest, , to Hong Kong’s according to Novobatzky. “The jacket is well cut and behavior regarding clothing, YGM Trading Ltd., said it was “actively studying financing possi- with shorter butterfly sleeves which is a fresh look appearance, fashion, fiber selection and bilities to keep the house running.” Rech had sales of about 180 from the Fifties and Sixties. I am creating them in many other timely, relevant subjects. million euros. or $222 million at current exchange, last year, about a third of which came from licensing royalties in Asia, ac- cording to Rech’s Internet site. WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2004 3 WWW.WWD.COM Industry to Seek Limits on 17% of China Imports

By Kristi Ellis percent of the U.S. market share and 50 percent of the accession. [Aldonas] also has made the point that the world market after the quotas expire. administration will consider petitions case by case, and WASHINGTON — The U.S. textile industry plans to file The Bush administration last month determined the when the U.S. industry presents solid evidence of mar- safeguard petitions as early as next week against some industry has a right to file petitions based on the threat ket disruption or threat of market disruption, we will 20 apparel and textile import categories from China val- of market disruption, rather than waiting for actual dis- enforce our trade laws-agreements on their behalf.” ued at more than $2 billion last year, including cotton ruption to occur. That was a key victory for the U.S. tex- The associations plan to file the petitions to counteract trousers and knit tops, WWD has learned. tile sector because it allows the industry, employing what they claim will be a death knell for their industry, The anticipated action to limit Chinese imports will thousands of workers in key political battleground states imperiling the remaining 696,500 U.S. jobs associated with intensify the pressure on the White House during the in the presidential contest, to proceed with the petitions. apparel and textile production, and also putting at risk final run to the Nov. 2 presidential election and force the Jim Leonard, deputy assistant secretary of textiles, many of the 30 million apparel production jobs worldwide. Bush administration to weigh domestic manufacturing apparel and consumer goods at the Commerce Department, However, the explosive battle over surging textile and concerns against import interests and the potential of met with a group of textile executives from North Carolina apparel imports from China has prompted strong warn- straining diplomatic ties with China. ings from Beijing and dramatically pitted importers The American Manufacturing Trade Action The U.S. textile industry will and retailers against the textile industry. In the U.S., Coalition, National Council of Textile Organiza- seek limits on such categories it has pressured the Bush administration to either tions, National Textile Association and American as cotton trousers and knit voluntarily initiate the safeguards or accept and Fiber Manufacturers Association are expected to tops from China. approve the petitions. On the international front, file the petitions on categories that represented 17 representatives of U.S. textile associations have percent of all Chinese imports last year on a dollar joined 38 other executives from global textile and basis. They are: women’s and men’s cotton and apparel industry groups and are currently in Geneva man-made fiber trousers, women’s and men’s cot- to rally support among trade diplomats ahead of a ton knit shirts, women’s and men’s man-made fiber crucial WTO meeting Friday that will examine the knit shirts, cotton sheets, cotton underwear, man- ramifications of the quota phaseout. made fiber underwear, wool trousers, cotton yarn, The spate of China safeguard petitions is expect- knit fabric, cotton and man-made fiber , cotton ed to trigger a strong reaction from China, which and man-made fiber robes and dressing gowns, has insisted it will not bow to U.S. pressure to cotton sweaters, dress shirts and possibly a man- extend the restraints on certain of its products, as made fiber fabric category, according to industry well as from U.S. importers and retailers, which sources. continue to challenge the administration’s right to The Bush administration invoked China safe- review the petitions based on threat under its cur- guards last year on five of those categories — rent procedures, as well as under China’s WTO knit fabric, cotton and man-made fiber bras, and accession agreement. cotton and man-made fiber dressing gowns and The U.S. Association of Importers of Textiles & robes. Their inclusion in the anticipated filing Apparel lashed out at the textile industry’s efforts next week is a reapplication for a second year. in a letter sent to WTO ambassadors Wednesday. The U.S. textile and apparel industries are The association urged WTO officials to stay com- bracing for a seismic impact when global quotas on appar- on Wednesday to reiterate the administration’s position on mitted to the phaseout of quotas and accused the domes- el and textile imports are lifted on Jan. 1 per an agree- the China safeguards, according to a Commerce spokes- tic textile industry of “scare tactics and gross exaggera- ment reached by the World Trade Organization nations. woman. She said Leonard restated Commerce tions,” that led to the imposition of restrictions on trade The U.S. is the largest textile and apparel importer in Undersecretary Grant Aldonas’ recent statements. in textile and apparel from developing countries. the world, importing more than $77 billion worth of tex- “The textile quotas will come off Jan. 1, 2005, because Under the current safeguard procedures, once the tiles and apparel in 2003. Of that total, more than $61 bil- that is what the last administration negotiated as part of petitions are filed, the Committee for the lion was in categories that were still subject to quotas, the Uruguay Round in 1994,” Aldonas has said, accord- Implementation of Textile Agreements has 15 days to according to the textile coalition. Some categories had ing to the spokeswoman. “And the U.S. will consider peti- decide whether it will accept them for review. Following already been liberalized over the 10-year phaseout period. tions based on threat because that is what was negotiat- that is a 30-day public comment period. CITA then has 60 According to recent studies, China could capture 75 ed under the textile safeguard during China’s WTO days to review the petitions and render a decision. Barnes Unveils Star-Studded Collection By Jackie Cooperman rayon moisturizing mask, cut with eye, nose and mouth holes. Reflecting his Hollywood NEW YORK — Scott Barnes, makeup artist training, Barnes has made holes to stars such as J. Blige, Sarah extra large, to allow for simultaneous eye- Jessica Parker and, until last June, brow plucking and lash tinting. Jennifer Lopez, is about to share his prod- “I don’t know anyone who has five ucts, and his penchant for “making women minutes just to sit with a mask on their look expensive,” with a more pedestrian face,” Barnes said. A constant doodler, clientele. Barnes has made the packaging intrigu- Starting with an Oct. 9 launch at Saks ing, introducing a bento box-like makeup Fifth Avenue’s flagship in New York, Items from the Scott Barnes collection. kit containing his core products, and sell- Barnes will be selling his eponymous ing a trifold mirror to allow women to see 130-stockkeeping-unit line to Saks doors above and below their eyes. in Detroit and , and will com- Prices range from $12 for a set of false plete a rollout to four Holt Renfrew eyelashes to $48 for a bottle of Body doors in Canada. This follows a limited BEAUTY BEAT Bling. First-year retail sales estimates for launch of the brand on QVC last spring. the color line are about $8 million, said “I’m with all these people in Hollywood spin, that, while he has not Barnes’ general manager, Michelle Hollywood all the time and it’s so inter- spoken to Lopez since her wedding, “I Williams. Barnes’ Web site, scottbarnes- esting to see real women,” Barnes said, still love her, she’s like family.” beauty.com, will be selling products by during a recent interview in his white lily- A publicist for Lopez, reached the end of October, Williams noted. filled Manhattan apartment. “They’re Wednesday, declined to comment. Scott Barnes This spring, Barnes also is planning to actually appreciative…as opposed to the While Barnes said he’s not writing a launch a men’s treatment and color line, a million-dollar Hollywood shoots, where gossip book, he is shopping around for a product goes on the skin, and “luminizing” women’s fragrance, and more women’s no one’s appreciative.” publisher to sell a how-to beauty book oil and mist that can be mixed with foun- treatment products. He’ll introduce a If Barnes a bit bitter, it may be called “It’s Only Makeup.” dation to give skin a sheen. Barnes men’s fragrance either next spring or for because of his falling out with Lopez, with “I really love to take people and work eschews traditional lipstick in the line, fall 2005. whom he’d worked closely for the last four on their image,” said Barnes, a former selling gloss and liquid lip color instead. And if that’s not enough to keep him years, using her as inspiration for his painter who still uses his Cuisinart to for- The line contains products inspired by busy, Barnes will be auditioning the make- product, Body Bling, a tinted, shimmering mulate the initial batch of many of his some of Barnes’ famous clients, including up artists to work the counters at Saks and moisturizer that carries. The two products. “I feel like an image maker, Lil’ Kim, for whom he’s named Gold Holt Renfrew, working on music videos haven’t spoken since Lopez’s impromptu more than just a makeup artist.” Digga’ lip gloss; Scarlett Johansson, who and editorial shoots and trying to further wedding last June, when Barnes claims he Barnes’ line, a 20-item portion of which inspired a lip gloss called Scarlet Starlet, his own television career. He just finished did the makeup for the star and her wed- he originally featured in a QVC appear- and even Lopez, for whom he created the a pilot for the E network and is a consult- ding party but was never paid. He dis- ance last April, includes a cream-based liquid lipstick shade Suggestive. Barnes ing beauty expert for the syndicated show missed as “nonsense” rumors that she’d foundation that can be thinned out “so it also sells false eyelashes called Marissa Life & Style, with Kimora Lee Simmons. fired him after learning he was planning doesn’t go on pasty,” he noted; a cold-fused (sic) for the iconic Marisa Berenson. “It takes a lot of time and attention, to write a tell-all book about the diva. liquid foundation that Barnes said has Primarily a color line, the range but I love it, so it’s okay,” said Barnes, “That’s ridiculous. How can you fire technology to prevent it from oxidizing; includes a few treatment products to declaring, with only the sheerest hint of someone who’s freelance?” he asked, eye shadows containing multiple pig- address Barnes’ “obsession” with perfect irony, “This is Scott’s world. I can do any- adding quickly, with characteristic ments, so that the colors change as the skin. Among them: a Japanese-produced thing I want.” 4 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM

DESERT FANTASY A room at The Parker. PALM SPRINGS, Calif. — Beginning next month, the desert will have a new hot spot, Le Parker Meridien Palm Springs, or simply, The Parker. For his first hotel project, designer Jonathan Adler imagined the house of an eccen- tric, well-traveled, Old World great aunt whom he dubbed Mrs. Parker. To that end, the 131 rooms, 12 villas and guest house (formerly Gene Autry’s residence) ooze Adler’s eclectic yet com- fortable style, juxtaposing Edwardian chairs with a Moroccan rug and ultramod- ern cube beds with Danish tapestries. “The trend in design is to make ho- tels all about the cleverness of the designer, but this is more about a residential feel that’s happy and chic,” Adler says. While the property has a Palm Springs pedigree — it was former- ly Autry’s Melody Ranch and Merv Griffin’s Resort and Spa — Adler sought to restore the Rat Pack glamour that he adores. “We tried to erase some of the Merv-goes-to-Versailles quality and add more fabulous, because I love that desert fantasy one Facing, from left, Eva Longoria, can have here,” he says. Teri Hatcher and Marcia Cross Teri Hatcher and Marcia Cross While much of the hotel is a homage to Adler’s muse Mrs. inin “Desperate“Desperate Housewives.”Housewives.” Parker, the restaurant, Mr. Parker’s, is meant to be “the lair of her dissolute husband. It’s a gothic castle with louche psychedel- ic overlay and semierotic art on the walls.” Nicolette The result, says Adler, should convince guests to return time Sheridan Sheridan and again. “Palm Springs makes me a feel a lot groovier than I am. I would be perfectly content to live the rest of my life in one of the rooms.” — M.M.

Longoria in Eduardo Lucero.

Jonathan Adler’s Suburban Chic rendering of Mr. Parker’s. UNIVERSAL CITY, Calif. — What is “Desperate Housewives”? A reason to watch television that doesn’t involve courtrooms, boardrooms or espionage, but rather adultery, mystery and great clothes. Not since the deliriously over-the-top soaps of the Eighties has prime time eye® seen such a juicy cast of women, with pitch-perfect wardrobes and storylines to match. If the manicured gardens and perfectly pastel houses of “Desperate Housewives” seem slightly unreal, it's because, like everything on Universal Studios’ back lot, they’re just a facade. Beyond the Bates Motel and the artificial lake where the “Jaws” shark resides lies Wisteria Lane, the fictional setting for the ABC show that premieres on Sunday. It’s where Bree Van de Kamp, played by “Melrose Place” alum Marcia Cross, waters her lawn each morning in piped cardigan sets, matching visors and pearls, and where , played by Latin bombshell Eva Longoria, seduces the lawn boy wearing La Perla . In the wardrobe trailer, designer Cate Adair toils to make each woman look the part. “We wanted a heightened reality, and for some of that, particularly Marcia’s character, I went back to Fifties and Sixties iconography,” she says. “The girls are prepared to run with it. They have seven to nine costume changes per episode, be- cause Bree wouldn’t water the lawn in the same outfit as she would wear to see the principal.” Cross says, “Bree is pretty buttoned-up and pretty darn conservative.” Kate Bosworth Her neighbor Susan Meyer, a divorced book illustrator played by Teri Hatcher, is much more re- inin KatayoneKatayone laxed. Her wardrobe contains colorful pieces by Joie, Walter, Free People, Loy and Ford, Twelfth Street Samaire Adeli and Juicy by Cynthia Vincent, Rebecca Taylor and Nanette Lepore. Armstrong in with Michelle “What makes our show different than what you had on ‘Sex and the City,’ which really was about the Petro Zillia Trachtenberg in relationship among four women, is you’ve got individual dramatic storytelling going on,” says Hatcher. and James Moschino and “They’re also willing to look at the dark side of friendship. It’s not all about, ‘It’s great hanging out and Perse, right, Citizens of getting our nails done.’ I keep thinking Sarah Jessica [Parker], who was so brilliantly fashion-ized in with a friend. Humanity jeans. her show, would be the antithesis of Susan. While Susan would fantasize about looking that great, she would not know how to put that together. She’s a hard character to define fashion-wise because she’s NOT ANOTHER TEEN PARTY: West Coast sensual but accidental and not perfect.” PYTs proved last week that there is more to On the other hand, the resident man-eater Edie Brick, played by Nicolette Sheridan, wears deliber- teen fashion than Juicy and Abercrombie. ately sexy satin and leather pants. At Teen Vogue’s Young Hollywood party at Felicity Huffman, who plays harried mom Lynette Scavo, says her wardrobe is more utilitarian. “I Chateau Marmont, the looks ranged from didn’t have the clothes inform my character. I think about what Lynette does all day and I need comfort- vintage vixen to punk rock princess to able pants and comfortable shoes that I can run after small boys in.” Grecian goddess, accessorized with The only housewife without children is Gabrielle Solis, an ex-runway model who’s bored with subur- handsome young men. (There were a few bia. Her wardrobe includes sexy halter tops, tons of bling and 4-inch Manolos. “I feel like a Barbie doll older guys in the crowd, too, including in my fittings because there are no limits,” says Longoria. “Gabrielle’s not confined by the definition of Bruce Weber, Mario Testino and Matt Dillon.) a normal wife. And she is always inappropriately dressed. She will go to the supermarket in a gown and But a few ladies came with their equally a funeral in a low-cut dress. I’m surprised that she’s friends with these women or that they are friends stylish moms: Gia Coppola and Jacqui Getty, with her,” she laughs. Dakota Johnson and Melanie Griffith, and One of the pilot episode’s funniest moments is when Gabrielle steals away from a black-tie gala to Sonja and Nastassja Kinski. Whomever the mow the lawn because her dalliance with the lawn boy is about to be discovered. “That’s classic chaperone, there seemed to be so many Gabrielle, and classic everyone on the show because it’s a moment of desperation, of ‘This is the only underage girls being served that even 21- Dakota Johnson and choice I have, mowing the lawn in an Eduardo Lucero gown and an updo.’ That's where the dress be- year-old Kate Bosworth was shocked. “Are Melanie Griffith comes a character.” they even checking IDs here?” she asked. Melanie Griffith

— Marcy Medina OF ABC HOUSEWIVES” PHOTOS COURTESY “DESPERATE www.sergiorossi.com New York Beverly Hills Costa Mesa Bal Harbour Ala Moana Waikiki 6 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Wal-Mart Shifts Execs to Get Fresh Outlook NEW YORK — Wal-Mart Stores Inc. named Lucy apparel and home private brands and packag- Cindric as senior vice president and general ing.” Waltuch works out of Wal-Mart’s New York merchandise manager of its ladies’ wear divi- “trend office,” which she opened one year ago. sion, replacing Celia Clancy, who was named Claire Watts, executive vice president of ap- vice president of brand strategy. parel and home products, said “[Cindric] will be The company also said Lisa Waltuch, creative bringing a fresh approach to our ladies’ apparel director for product development, will have an division while [Clancy] will be adding a missing expanded role. dimension to our merchandising efforts, and As part of these changes, the girls’ division [Waltuch] will continue our quest to improve the moves to children’s apparel from ladies’ wear. look and feel of our brands.” “With this change, Andy Cindric joined Wal-Mart Barron, senior vice presi- Lee Scott, president in 2003 after working as a dent and general mer- senior executive at May chandise manager, will and chief executive Department Stores Co. now oversee men’s appar- Clancy joined Wal-Mart in el along with baby, infant- officer of the retailer, 1997 after holding various Debra Messing and toddler, boys’ wear and positions at Bradlees Pamela Michaelcheck Richard Lambertson at girls’ wear,” the retailer said profit growth for Stores. Waltuch’s career and Michael Gould Bloomingdale’s SoHo. said in a statement. began at Wal-Mart in 2000 Cindric’s appointment the Wal-Mart stores when she served as creative involves overseeing the re- director for walmart.com. tailer’s ladies’ intimates, exceeded sales, but At a Goldman Sachs sportswear, juniors’, ac- conference earlier this tive, outerwear, swimwear, there was more work month, Lee Scott, presi- Party On plus sizes and accessories dent and chief executive segment — a position pre- to be done. officer of the retailer, said NEW YORK — Bloomingdale’s has been in a festive mood lately, viously held by Clancy, profit growth for the Wal- staging parties at both its uptown and downtown stores here. The who “will step into a new role within the product Mart stores exceeded sales, but there was more SoHo location recently toasted the cast of “Will & Grace” to cele- development team.” work to be done. brate the NBC show’s seventh season and the release of the com- The company said Clancy will relocate to Scott said the company’s basics business re- panion album “Will & Grace: Let the Music Out” with a party at- New York “to act as a liaison between key sup- mains strong and there’s been “some improve- tended by Venus Williams, Joan Collins, Richard Lambertson pliers and Wal-Mart while helping interpret key ment in fashion.” He said the George apparel and John Varvatos, as well as the four stars of the show. trend statements for each brand.” line was doing well, but the sales performance Bloomingdale’s often holds events tied to movies and plays, The retailer said Waltuch will “expand her re- “needs to be broader-based within the store.” and is selling the CD in some of its stores. “We believe in the nat- sponsibilities to include design direction for all — Arthur Zaczkiewicz ural synergy of entertainment and retail,” noted Tony Spring, senior executive vice president of marketing. And last week, the chain’s 59th Street flagship held a fashion presentation and luncheon chaired by Somers Farkas, Kristen S&P Change Might Hit Wal-Mart Stock Solsvig Galev, Cynthia Lufkin, Pamela Michaelcheck and Barbara Stovall Smith to benefit the Southampton Fresh Air Home, a camp NEW YORK — Shares of Wal-Mart Stores Inc. index, Weinswig expects investors to turn over for physically challenged youth. Among designers and socialites who may be subject to significant volatility as fund 159 million Wal-Mart shares worth $8.4 billion. came out were Jeffrey Chow, Nicole Miller and Francisco Costa, as managers adjust their portfolios after ratings “The company still has millions of shares well as Muffie Potter Aston, Grace Hightower and Tara Rockefeller. firm Standard & Poor’s shifts the weighting of available for repurchase,” said Weinswig in the Held in the designer collection area on the fourth floor, the event the S&P 500 Index, said Deborah Weinswig, re- report released late Tuesday. “The demand for raised more than $40,000 from ticket sales and a portion of proceeds tail analyst with Citigroup Smith Barney, in a Wal-Mart stock on the day of the rebalance may from sales of Bloomingdale’s designer collections that day. research report. exceed supply.” The report, which still rates the stock with a In Weinswig’s report, she expected Wal- “buy/low risk” rating, came as Wal-Mart in- Mart to increase its share repurchase pro- creased its share repurchasing program. gram as a result of the S&P index change. Wal-Mart’s stock closed Wednesday up 0.4 The retailer did just that. Wal-Mart’s board percent to $53. Its 52-week high is $61.31, and of directors authorized a $10 billion stock the low is $50.50. buyback program on Wednesday, which re- The changes in the S&P 500 involve a “full- places the company’s prior $7 billion repur- float” adjustment, where shares available only chase program. for open market trading will be counted in the In a separate report, Weinswig said she is index. Weinswig predicts Wal-Mart will be the “encouraged by the announcement, as this hardest hit of all the S&P 500 companies by the sizeable share buyback could more than offset move because its weighting in the index will anticipated turnover from the S&P’s move to a decrease the most. free float methodology.” Following the change in weighting of the — Dawn S. Kissi

Ferragamo’s SoHo Space on Market NEW YORK — The ranks of luxury stores in pleased with the performance of its SoHo store. SoHo are thinning. The company, which has adapted the merchan- Ferragamo on Monday said its downtown dise mix to appeal to SoHo shoppers, sells lots store, a 5,200-square-foot space on two levels, is of sunglasses and accessories. being actively marketed by CB Richard Ellis. But it’s no secret that selling in “Ferragamo USA Inc. has placed the retail SoHo has been tough for some. space located at 122 Spring Street on the market,” , Yves Saint Laurent, H. Stern and said Massimo Ferragamo, chairman of the U.S. af- Ermenegildo also made commitments to Nicole Miller, Susan Bodnar and Muffie Potter Aston filiate of the Florentine luxury house. The store the neighborhood, but either occupied their at a fund-raiser for the Southampton Fresh Air Home. at a fund-raiser for the Southampton Fresh Air Home. will remain open until a new tenant is found. spaces briefly or never moved in.

PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO AND STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY The decision to market the space was Luxury firms in SoHo were hurt when tourism prompted by several business factors, according dried up as a result of 9/11 and the ailing economy. to Ferragamo. “This is an advantageous mo- Tourism has never fully recovered. Brokers said ment to entertain offers on the property,” he many spaces have been vacant for some time and said. “This is a real estate opportunity, inde- most new deals are being signed on Broadway pendent from the retail business.” rather than the interior streets of SoHo. Ferragamo is asking $200 a square foot for Other stores being openly marketed in- the prime location on Spring Street and the cor- clude the Barry Kielselstein-Cord boutique ner of Greene Street, a price brokers said is re- on West Broadway. alistic. Three years ago the same space would “We think the strength right now is on have rented for $300 or $350. “There’s been a Broadway and it’s being driven by the strength TIGER BUTTON CO., INC. tremendous softening in the market,” said of Bloomingdale’s,” said Bette Ende, manag- TIGER TRIMMING, INC. Caroline Banker, a broker at Douglas-Elliman. ing director of PBS Realty. “Contemporary Prada, , , Ferragamo merchandise is more compelling to office 307 West 38th Street New York, NY 10018 and Burberry opened stores in SoHo in 2000 and workers and residents and that’s having an ef- (212)594-0570 800-223-2754 FAX (212)695-0265 2001. Barbara Cirkva, executive vice president fect on retail.” email: [email protected] www.TIGERBUTTON.com of fashion at Chanel Inc., said the company is — Sharon Edelson

8 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2004 A Sporty Dim Miuccia Prada took her Prada collection in a tailored and sporty direction…Christopher Bailey’s Burberry Prorsum line was stylishly citified…and K

Prada: Miuccia Prada is the most exciting designer Prada Burberry Prorsum working in fashion today — and probably the gutsiest. Her impact over the past decade has been incalculable, with no competitor able to close in on her milan particular turf. One reason is that if a fashion designer can be even part artist, Prada is. At the same time, for all her otherworldly, tiara-wearing iconoclasm, she has a remarkable cultural intuition with a velvet-gloved finger positioned firmly on the pulse. Hardly content to create high-minded, wearable art on a fashion island, Prada instead manipulates her artistic sensibility for commercial purposes. Hence the amazing installation that greeted guests arriving at her show on Wednesday: enormous screens along two walls, flashing projected images and news tickers parodying current events with a combination of real and distorted information. The work, a collaboration between Prada and Rem Koolhaas’ AMO, was designed for her Los Angeles Epicenter in the unabashed interests of empire-building. And, as everybody knows, it’s some kind of empire. That’s because the merch — from the wear-everyday cashmere sweaters to highly embellished skirts to robotic Gumby key chains — is fabulous, and because Prada knows when to say when. So excuse her for moving on from her recent fragile, feminine eccentricity that has so inspired designers the world over. Now, she’s on to something sportier, a Burberry look with its own plentiful peculiarities Prorsum in an apparently grounded package — and only she could pull it off so masterfully. “This is how to dress for life,” Prada said after the show. “We are living in the middle of the world. The collection is done for living now.” Touché. Prada has always maintained that her past informs her present, which is why she started her vintage reissues at retail. It’s also why this collection borrowed obviously from past efforts in little decorative mirrors and, more importantly, in the emergence of a now-fresh silhouette, unfussy and short, with an emphasis on tailoring. It harkened to her Geek Chic moment back when, which may be why she signed on one of her long-ago models, Kristin McMenamy, to open the show. Still, the mannish cuts revealed in, for example, a jacket belted over a striped sweater and sensible shorts, were only the start of Prada’s new, antifragile attitude. She also loves a clean-cut shift and fuller dresses, worn most often with terrific flat sandals. She worked these in sturdy, high- interest fabrics — burlap; intriguing photo prints — colored from the rich, earthen palette of a dark fairy tale. And, while she started out with relative austerity, she built up to a crescendo of decoration that involved weighty jewelry, embroidery, appliqués and some major bird imagery. This ranged from a snappy shift with parrot appliqué to a Leda- and-the-swan-neck dress that rang a distant Björk bell (without looking foolish), to a frock fashioned quite remarkably from a bounty of peacock feathers. Individually, the clothes looked great. As a collection, they indicate Prada’s readiness to lead fashion away from its current preoccupation with froth. In fact, she chose the aviary motif because, she said, birds represent Prada “beauty, vanity, strength, freedom and warriors.” All, perhaps, a reflection of how Prada sees herself, and why she is so fearless.

Burberry Prorsum: Delightful, from start to finish. The clothes were delightful. The fresh-faced models were WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2004 9 WWW.WWD.COM

delightful. Grown-up Kate Moss sitting in the front row now looking faux-undone was delightful. The white Burberry- checked planters filled with hydrangeas at the entrance were delightful. And the fact that the designer has so distinctive a take on pretty was the most delightful of all. Let’s face it, given fashion’s current mode, many designers find themselves on a collision course to pretty, their collections converging so closely as to seem interchangeable at times. Happily, Christopher Bailey has steered Burberry Prorsum miles away from that road much traveled, joyriding instead on a path all his own, one that drives all of Granny’s tchotchkes back to mension the attic, which, at this point, looks increasingly like where they belong. Rather, he prefers a take on pretty that is ultramodern and looks totally undone, in that Karl Lagerfeld’s Fendi looks were creatures of considerable variety. perfect Brit sort of way. Bailey’s girls are city types with a nature fetish. They co-opt flower patterns from Wedgwood china Fendi Fendi (and bold graphics from Clarice Cliff) to step lively on terrific wedge shoes. They can make a picnic anytime, anywhere in skirts that mimic Amish quilts. And, of course, they love long walks in the rain, the better to show off a dazzling array of trenchcoats, from wide, romantic smocks to a hipped-up take on a child’s sunny yellow slicker. But mostly, these girls love to pull on sundry pieces with little apparent forethought, stepping out fresh-faced and quietly eccentric to seize the day. Truth be told, of course, such a girl considers each mix oh-so-carefully. How else to radiate charm in the perfect pale knit cardigan with a jeweled tie over a floral shirt and vibrant metallic skirt, or a draped-up goddess dress under a chill-chasing cardigan and wooly fringe scarf with a predatory spider brooch perched just so? Bailey has exercised similar clever calculation in shaping Burberry Prorsum, and in so doing, has given youthful, street- worthy style a thoroughly engaging dose of feminine wiles.

Fendi: “I am new fashioned,” crooned the soundtrack at Karl Lagerfeld’s Fendi show. Everybody knows that Lagerfeld, who has been designing at Fendi for more than 35 years, is quite a modern guy. Yet just to drive the notion home, he flooded the spring runway with a truckload of far-flung ideas before you could utter a quick, “What-the- heck?” Many of these looked great. But the message of his mix might take the rest of us another 35 to sort out. The mood was, in a broad sense, painterly. Lagerfeld never committed himself to a tangy bright or an autumnal palette, deciding instead to flit between the two. Abstract prints lent some dresses a punched- up edge, as with one in bright yellow streaked Missoni with bands of ultraviolet and orange. Murkier tones and macramé trimmings created a earthy vibe. Which is to say that Lagerfeld never puts a limit on his inspiration, either. There was a vague Seventies feel to jersey dresses, smartly bound with contrasting trim or fastened with a row of simple ties down the front; a snappy storybook doll moment with puffed-up peach sleeves and a pretty princess dress, and fine-tuned minimalist gowns trimmed with sleek silver links. Then came trapeze-cut chiffon dresses dotted with colorful bits of fluffy fur the size of cotton balls. If variety is the spice of fashion, then Lagerfeld’s ladies are the new spice girls. Lagerfeld proved — yet again — that his imagination knows no bounds. Fendi’s execs are keen on building the business in major new ways. And for his part, clearly Lagerfeld is keen on taking the house in bold directions. In order for the rest of the world to keep up, however, he may need to slow down the informational flow or give the rest of us a better map.

Missoni: Like a cool slice of watermelon on a red-hot day, out came Angela Missoni’s charming spring collection, as heralded in look number two by — what else? — a sweater graced with an appliquéd still life of fruit. Throughout, Missoni took a languid approach that kept the whole collection floating right along. She delivered flou, without going overboard. She used ruffles without going frilly. She Missoni kept the look sweet, while never losing her grip on the hip factor. She hinted at retro, without launching into time travel. And the mood was pitch perfect. Missoni’s light touch kept her family’s famous knits featherweight, whether in the form of sweaters that slid off the shoulder or subtly sexy knit lace dresses in raspberry red or tangy lime. But the bulk of the collection was made up of dreamy dresses of the flirty, fluttering variety. Missoni sent these out in bevies under shrunken cardigans or tiny fur vests. Some of her floral sundresses came wrapped round and round with sporty ribbon belts. Others, decorated with a leafy patch of sequins here and there, offered a more offbeat look. Meanwhile, a whiff of Seventies nostalgia came into play with those cut in a wistful wisteria print shot through with disco gold and the occasional kimono sleeve nodded towards a distant geisha inspiration. But why stretch? This collection’s roots are most deeply grounded in a very

PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI, DAVIDE MAESTRI AND MAURICIO MIRANDA MAESTRI AND MAURICIO GIANNONI, DAVIDE GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY pretty reality. Not fantasy land, but dreamy nonetheless. 10 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2004 For m, Fu nction a nd At Bottega Veneta, showed looks with a low-key luxury…at D&G, the theme was “Blue Hawaii”…an

Bottega Veneta: A genius once suggested that Bottega D&G form should follow function. And so it should, even at a fashion show, an event Veneta with a number of quite specific functions: to allow a designer to present his vision for Bottega a season clearly and concisely, exactly as Veneta he chooses, and allow retailers and editors an opportunity to experience and respond to that vision, while seeing the clothes. So it’s surprising that Tomas Maier chose to show his Bottega Veneta collection in such a peculiar manner, especially since he’s determined to expand the image of the house from its accessories origins to that of a complete ready-to-wear house. First, no one working the door knew how to work a door (always a pleasure). Worse, once herded inside in packs of 20, guests found it nearly impossible to see the clothes fully. Those who managed to muscle their way through the standing-room-only crowd for a decent position near the runway simply could not concentrate on the clothes in a manner conducive to doing their jobs D&G properly. Maier said the collection was about “low-key luxury that’s never in your face.” That sense manifested itself most dramatically in a woven croc Cabat bag requiring 25 skins to the tune of 65,000 euros — even close up, who knew? — but the real stunner was a terrific bag in gold metallic leather. As for the clothes, they displayed an ease of proportion with a Seventies nod that looked fresh, if sometimes a little clunky. Throughout, the designer played softness against structure, the former appealing in fluid printed silk dresses and skirts, the latter in sturdy cottons with a jaunty spirit that turned sloppy on occasion, as in the too-wide pants. But the bigger problem was that one just did not leave this sorry presentation with a solid sense of what Maier wants to say as a designer.

D&G: It’s never too hard to the season’s theme upon entering a D&G show. If the runway is set up like a cutesy thrift store, expect a vintage motif. If there’s a DJ parked front and center, get milan ready for club gear. This season, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana decorated their D&G set with a few palm trees and a tiki bar. And clothes that said “Aloha” circles. And Mandelli worked pastels to cheekier effect in little tops and in — adorable tropical printed shirts and jeans airbrushed burnout florals. But when she closed the show with some wacky numbers cut from across the rear with hibiscus blooms — weren’t far behind. crinkly, shiny black silk, you couldn’t help but wonder if she was heading back into The designers, however, were dually inspired not only by the clouds. “Blue Hawaii,” but by the star of that beachy 1961 classic, Elvis Presley. Last season, his granddaughter, Riley Keough, walked the D&G show, but this time, the King Anna Molinari: Designer Rosella Tarabini’s spring collection for Anna Molinari was himself put in an appearance on dozens of photo-printed T-shirts. Moving on from schizophrenic, to say the least. Setting the scene with a runway bathed in deep blue beach boy to rockabilly pinstripes to later Elvis moments, the designers sent out loads light, while Marilyn Manson covered the Eurythmics’ “Sweet Dreams” in a Linda of rhinestones, coating the lapels of a gold leather jacket in glitz and decorating a pair Blair “Exorcist” voice, hardly seems the way to go when the program notes cite of cropped pants with a glam sunburst. While a few pieces — acid-washed denims and “luxury and innocence.” grotesque — took the trash quotient beyond the limit, Dolce & Gabbana Tarabini’s girls started out all right. Crisp short suits with shrunken jackets in always manage to make most of their most over-the-top ideas wearable. Case in point: turquoise and fuchsia were cute when paired with floral tiered tops. The sweetness a slinky tropical rhinestone miniskirt glistening with tropical flowers. It’s sassy enough continued in a glam-rock way, with loads of sparkly metallic disco shorts paired with to suit a rock star’s kin, and pretty enough to leave a regular girl all shook up. floaty blouses and embroidered satin blazers. But things got really weird when black-and-white lingerie looks ruled the runway, followed by a slew of Edwardian- Krizia: Calling all occupants of interplanetary craft. It seems as if Mariuccia inspired gowns in an unflattering explosion of chiffon. Tarabini is at her best when Mandelli has abandoned you for spring and returned to Earth after last season’s she controls her enthusiasm, but this season, it seems, she just threw caution to the jaunt into outer space. Her feet may not always be planted firmly on the ground, but winds. this Krizia collection is a big improvement. In a nod to the Far East — and all those Japanese retailers in the front row — Tr end Les Copains: Who can resist the breathtaking beauty and glamour of Capri Mandelli opened with a gold floral dress, a white cotton suit and a dress stamped to and the Amalfi coast with their picture-perfect beaches, turquoise waters and look like crocodile, all cinched with black leather obis, as well as a trio of black-and- masses of bougainvillea? Not Trend Les Copains designer Antonio Marras, whose white floral print silk dresses. Just the sort of fare that is sure to rake in the yen. show backdrop depicted that leisurely panorama and whose endearingly sweet Pastel pink knits were nice and light when paired with silk skirts printed in abstract collection couldn’t have been more fitting. WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2004 11 WWW.WWD.COM

Trend Les Copains Fashion Scoops

BLONDE AMBITION: There’s a new calm attitude chez Versace these days. The ultrasvelte Glitter Donatella clocks in every morning by 10, getting straight to work. She’s also changing her collection m.o. just a bit. In addition to showing only Versace and not Versus, she has not invited a single celebrity to grace her front row on Friday night, and has ditched her nd Anna Molinari did glam-rock looks. traditional post-show megafete. “I went back and forth about celebrities, but decided that I really want to focus on the clothes only,” Versace said Wednesday. “Besides, there were Anna enough stars in New York.” After the show, an intimate dinner for 40 or so at her apartment Molinari will replace the traditional bacchanalian festivities. Other changes are in the works as well, including refocusing and renaming the house’s secondary lines under a new, to-be-determined label, and moving the design staff from Via Gesu to expanded quarters at the company’s headquarters on Via Manzoni, with Gesu being converted to a showroom. “After the departure of Tom and Dom, everybody kept looking to us for news,” said a staffer. “Now we really have a lot going on.”

BIRDS OF A FEATHER: It looks like Daphne Guinness, a recent contributor to Tatler magazine, has landed a bigger fashion assignment. Way bigger. Word has it the ultrachic brewery heiress has been tapped by François Henri Pinault as a special fashion consultant for Gucci Group. The scope of her responsibilities could not immediately be learned, but it is understood she will lend her unerring eye to various brands. She’s certainly no stranger to many in the group, as she counts Alexander McQueen among her London friends. Neither Guinness nor Pinault’s representatives could be reached for comment.

PRESLEY POWER: Dolce & Gabbana made their fair share of Elvis references at their D&G show Tuesday. Word has it the duo might be ready to focus their attention on the women in the King’s life. The designers are said to be reuniting Priscilla Presley, Lisa Marie Presley and her daughter, Riley Keough, who last season walked the runway for the designing pair. Bally The three are expected to sit front and center at the show Friday and attend an evening party at Dolce & Gabbana’s new Via Della Spiga flagship to celebrate a limited-edition tome called “Music,” featuring photos of musicians wearing the through the years.

DRESS CODE: Karl Lagerfeld’s request that photographers wear black suits and white shirts to his Chanel show next week in Paris is irking many a tripod holder, with some calling for a strike — and others holding out for free clothes. “If he gives me a suit, I’ll wear it,” said Bruno Rinaldi, a shutterbug for Italian Vogue who bears a passing resemblance to Jerry Garcia. For now, he’s mulling the prospect of turning up for the show in an English derby to protest: “That I have to go out and buy a jacket and pants for this is just wrong,” he said at the Fendi show Wednesday. Pit regular Dan Lecca went further, calling the request “a little fascist.” Besides, he’s not sold on the suggested attire, which Chanel says is to match the show decor. “I never wear a white shirt with a black suit because I look like a waiter,” he quipped. Still, not all paparazzi are convinced that Lagerfeld is out of line. “I think it’s wonderful,” said Steve Wood, a freelancer. “I think the photographers are the ones that were bringing the level of everything down. We might as well wear nice clothes.”

COSTUME DEPARTMENT: Dennis Hopper, in Milan for Dennis Hopper the presentation of Hogan — where his daughter backstage at Marin, the former Elle fashion editor, now works on Missoni. special projects — also took time out to catch the Missoni show Wednesday morning. But he had movies on his mind. He’s about to direct “Genuine Article,” a “caper” starring Elizabeth Hurley. Could he be on the lookout for her wardrobe during Milan Fashion Week? “I’m always looking for ,” he said with a chuckle. “But I’m sure Liz Hurley will

PHOTO BY DAVE YODER DAVE PHOTO BY be looking on her own.”

With a nod to the good old times — think Jackie O strolling the paths of Ravello — Marras’ girls bounced down the runway in happy-to-be-here clothes: Twin sets with appliquéd flowers tumbling down the front were paired with frothy skirts; flare-’n’- flounce dresses came in striped and dotted patchwork; cropped boxy jackets were PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY detailed with sequins and tossed over shorts. Throughout, Marras worked it all in a EMMANUELE SARDELLA PHOTO BY genteel palette of lime green, ecru and salmon pink. And he threw a lot of lively Giorgio at the Armani/Vanity Fair Oscar party; accessories into the mix, including clutches, bamboo-handled baskets, strands of pearls Paul Marciano and friends at the Guess anniversary celebration. and cork-wedge sandals in fabrics that matched the clothes. Perfect for la bella vita. CROWD CONTROL: Milan’s party scene kicked into high gear Tuesday night as Giorgio Armani Bally: Luca Rangonesi, the ready-to-wear designer at this leather-goods house, bases hosted a Vanity Fair windup at his subterranean Armani Privé club. While designer his design process on two tried-and-true theories. First, his customers — more working Lawrence Steele was freaking out to Le Chic on the dance floor, Armani, dressed in a moms than high-glam types — prefer quality over dazzling effects, and second, the mandarin jacket, schmoozed a crowd thick with retail heavyweights. The possibility of clothes back up the brand’s core business — accessories. rubbing elbows with a Guess girl at the firm’s hot-ticket 20th anniversary party across town For spring, Rangonesi sent out a collection of comfortable, travel-friendly leather caused a mob scene outside Spazio Strato. As the crowd to get in swelled, an impromptu pieces and outerwear, done up with small details such as zips, slits and the occasional street party got under way. So who needs Paris when you’ve got Milan? ruffle. Taking a cue from the company’s Rainforest project — a limited-edition Nature Bag in leaf-printed satin — the designer also took a walk on the wild side with jungle prints that he fashioned into everything from see-through blouses, snug jackets and KEEPING IT SURREAL: Tod’s chief Diego Della Valle plans to entertain the fashion crowd shorts to hats, satchels and beribboned wedges. He managed to tame it all with plum Friday — and show off his latest wares — with a surreal presentation staged by Dante suede jackets, a black oiled peccary blazer and a cotton and silk trenchcoat. Ferretti and inspired by Giorgio De Chirico. The renowned set decorator, who collaborated The wide-ranging accessories collection, designed by Johnny Coca, who joined the with Della Valle last season in re-creating an Italian garden complete with statues, will company in May, blends basics with a soupçon of the season’s trends. Among the reproduce some of the most famous Italian squares to reinforce the company’s link with the standouts were strappy wooden wedges, cherry red sandals that tie around the ankle “Made in ” tradition.

and napa satchels in baby blue. MIRANDA MAESTRI AND MAURICIO DAVIDE PHOTOS BY 12 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2004 Brands Rush Into Russia Continued from page one lines. “Over the next three years, we expect would become billionaires. We need went through a devastating crisis in the and the economic impact of the struggles of an increase of 25 percent per year in keep- stores like Gap, Marks & Spencer, H&M.” Nineties as domestic demand plummeted oil producer Yukos, executives overall ing with the growth of the local economy.” The Metro Group, ’s fourth- and cheap cotton imports from Central believe the country continues to represent a Despite Russia’s proximity and repu- largest retail group and the world’s fifth Asia dried up. That has seriously dented mother lode for fashion and luxury brands. tation for high-end consumption, many largest, has been active in Russia since the industry’s export potential, as well. In “I have customers coming in to the European luxury players only recently 2001. It operates seven Metro Cash & 2002, Russian exports of textiles and store and buying 700 socks because they arrived on the scene. But all were aware Carry wholesale hypermarkets and will footwear amounted to just 0.6 percent of wear them once and then throw them of the spending power of the richest open up to eight Cash & Carry stores in the country’s overall exports, or some $540 away,” said David Gisi, managing director Russians, having welcomed them at bou- Russia this year, a spokesman said. million. Official imports in the two cate- of the men’s fashion division of Mercury, tiques in European fashion capitals and In 2003, Russia accounted for sales of gories were 4.4 percent of total imports, or one of the biggest luxury players in the resort locations. 510 million euros, or $628.3 million at cur- around $1.58 billion. The actual figure, country. “They consider Rolex to be Yves Carcelle, ceo of , was rent exchange, out of group sales of 53.6 bil- however, is likely to be significantly higher, almost like Swatch.” vacationing in Dubai around New Year’s lion euros, or $66.03 billion. Metro cites a with gray- and black-market imports still Rebounding swiftly from an economic Eve and he estimated about 60 percent of “first-mover advantage” to being the first rampant. Torgovaya Gazeta, a Russian crisis in 1998, retail sales in Russia are the tourists there were Russian nationals. big international player in a new market, trade journal, estimates that the share of growing by an average of 9 percent a year, Vuitton opened its first boutique in especially for securing the best locations. imports in many clothing categories hov- reaching $119 billion in 2002, according to Russia only 18 months ago — but in grand Plus, Metro has the further advantage of ers at 70 to 80 percent of the total. the most recent government figures. All style, with a “global store” selling all cate- actually being invited into new markets. In general, the Russian clothing indus- told, Russia’s 143 million citizens wield gories of product, from leather goods and A Metro spokesman said the retailer is try has found it difficult to compete with some $280 billion in total spending power. shoes to rtw. At present, sales are growing often instrumental in introducing or estab- inexpensive imports from Turkey and While most foreign retail investment at a pace in excess of 30 percent on a like- lishing a value-added tax system in the China. However, a few domestic brands to date has been in food and general mer- for-like basis, and Vuitton this summer countries in question, consequently provid- are emerging. chandise, spending on fashion is consid- opened a location in Moscow department ing the governments with a continuous Among the most successful is Gloria erable. Goskomstat, Russia’s national sta- store GUM with an entrance on Red source of revenue. This is the case in Serbia. Jeans Corporation, which last year report- tistics agency, says an average of 13 per- Square — within view of Lenin’s tomb. Even in countries where there is VAT, many ed sales exceeding $100 million. Located cent of household spending goes to cloth- Making an observation echoed by most small-scale retailers often don’t pay it, the in the Rostov region, an impoverished ing and footwear. The Russian clothing luxury players, Carcelle noted that spokesman explained. “We offer very rea- coal-mining area in Southern Russia, market is estimated at about $10 billion to Vuitton sells a higher percentage of rtw in sonable prices, and so many of these small Gloria expects to produce 15 million to 16 $12 billion. Brands as diverse as Levi’s, Moscow, especially men’s rtw, than in any retailers start buying their ranges at Metro, million pairs of jeans this year under its Hugo Boss, L’Oréal and Benetton have other market. and thus do pay VAT,” he said. own brand, plus some 4.5 million pairs as been present on the market for more than Ditto for Hermès International. While L’Oréal, beauty’s behemoth, staked its a subcontractor for Levi Strauss. Gloria a decade. More recent arrivals range jeans retails for as little as $14, but the from Burberry and Louis Vuitton to the company is highly profitable with earnings German discounter Metro Group. last year of $12 million. It’s now branching And investments in Russia are expect- into knitwear, with a new line of T-shirts ed to continue. A recent survey by and sweatshirts, officials say. “We’re going Chicago-based AT Kearney management down the same road as any major jeans consultants rated Russia as the most producer in the world. We’re growing, and attractive emerging market for retailers in that process, we’re expanding our prod- for the second year in a row, beating India uct range,” said Maria Ostrovskaya, man- and China, in second and third, respec- aging director of Gloria. tively, in its 2004 rankings. While imported clothing abounds, To be sure, the luxury crowd is cashing there are still relatively few international in on Moscow’s big spenders, with many clothing retailers in Russia, after Next brands reporting annual sales growth and British House left in the wake of the there in the range of 20 to 30 percent or 1998 financial market crash. But others more. Christian , for example, cites may move soon to fill the void. year-to-date sales growth in excess of 50 Fast-fashion behemoth H&M has sig- percent in Russia and ranks its Moscow naled that it’s eyeing the Russian market — flagship fifth in terms of volume among its hardly surprising given the runaway suc- network of about 170 stores. cess of another Swedish retailer, Ikea. The “The business is very good,” said Dior furniture giant opened three Russian stores president Sidney Toledano. “Russians like in 2000, and has said it will open a mall and to spend; they like to have fun, go out and to its first regional store in Kazan soon. party, and they like fashion. Also, men like “There are incredible opportunities,” to buy gifts for the women in their lives.” said Robert Pesser, retail manager for “It’s a very fashion-driven clientele — The Benetton store in Moscow. Eastern Europe at Amsterdam-based they love color, print, patterns — and Mexx, which is owned by Liz Claiborne have a more bold approach to buying,” rtw represents only about 15 percent of the claim on the Russian market in 1990. Its Inc. “Russians have a hunger for fashion. agreed Rose Marie Bravo, chief executive French brand’s sales worldwide, executive sales soared 39 percent in Russia last year But the Russians are also sparking busi- of Burberry, which opened its first vice president Christian Blanckaert noted and have multiplied by 2.5 times since 2000. ness elsewhere. They are traveling — and Russian location last March in Moscow. the figure is well over 30 percent in its Its Vichy brand, introduced in Russia in buying — all over Europe.” “There’s really an enthusiasm for fashion Moscow store. “Russian people love our 1998, is now available in 2,500 pharmacies Indeed, Pesser said Russia could poten- and luxury.” ready-to-wear, especially our men’s ready- there and is the number-one skin care tially assume the same importance as the A recent survey of the Russian market to-wear, which is a huge success. [Hermès brand in the country, according to the firm. U.S. He said the company has seen like-for- by Pambianco Consultants in Milan men’s wear designer] Veronique L’Oréal has adapted its brands at a like growth of more than 20 percent over showed 98 Italian brands present with Nichanian’s style is very appreciated in local level to better meet the needs of the last few years. Mexx opened its first 326 stores, and 23 French brands operat- Russia and I’m sure the new [women’s col- Russian consumers. For its L’Oréal Paris store in Russia in 1998 and today operates ing 40 stores. Pambianco pegged the lux- lection] by will be, too. brand, for example, it tweaked its meth- 10 units in Moscow and three in St. ury share of the fashion market in Russia They are waiting for it.” ods of communication with customers. Petersburg. Elsewhere in the country, the at about $600 million, with growth of Harald Stolzenberg, ceo of beauty firm “Technical advice is a key element of firm has some 70 franchised units. Pesser about 6 to 8 percent expected for the next La Prairie Group, describes Russia as a success in Russia, where consumers said there are plans to introduce other Liz two or three years. polarized market, where top-level and expect information on the most ‘technical’ Claiborne-owned brands in Russia. “Russia is a country of culture and his- mass brands work. products, such as hair color, skin care, and Russian retailers are on the move, as tory. They know what a watch is and they “Of course, our parent company makeup,” the company said. well. Russia’s biggest retailer, the dis- know what fine jewelry is,” said Bernard [Beiersdorf] does fantastically with “Consequently, [L’Oréal Paris] has designed counter Pyaterochka, plans to launch 155 Fornas, president of Cartier Nivea,” he said. “The problem is in the new counters called ‘Espace Beaute,’ in new stores this year, most of them outside International. “The potential is not only middle. Russia is not exactly what I’d call which consumers can receive diagnosis of the Moscow and St. Petersburg regions, in the domestic [Russian] market. But it’s a democratic market.” from beauty advisers.” according to the AT Kearney report. also elsewhere, because the Russians are As the AT Kearney survey pointed out, Also at a local level, L’Oréal’s Garnier Pyaterochka had sales of $930 million last traveling and spending money on luxury low per capita spending remains a risk brand tackled the effects of Russia’s year. products.” for foreign retailers. Russian per capita harsh winters by launching Total Comfort Still, most of the foreign fashion players Cartier, which has been present for spending of $1,950 is only half that of in November 2003. The skin care product surveyed by WWD said they see limited four years in Russia, now operates four neighboring Lithuania, at $3,750. was developed especially to meet the expansion potential beyond the capital. shops, including a 5,000-square-foot flag- “The great question is, ‘How will the needs of the Russian market as 39 per- “The consensus today is the big money ship in Moscow. middle market develop?’” according to cent of women in the country have very is in Moscow,” said Carcelle at Vuitton. “Russia represents the best ‘emerging’ Aliona Doletskaya, editor in chief of dry skin. “We might even open a third store in country for our fashion house,” said Paolo Russian Vogue, which was founded six On the apparel side, foreign retailers Moscow before going into St. Petersburg.” Di Spirt, ceo of Emanuel Ungaro, which has years ago just as the country went into an face little competition from Russian mak- “Outside of Moscow, the potential is opened two franchised boutiques in economic crisis. “That’s where the ers, which compete mostly at the low end limited,” agreed Ralph Toledano, presi- Moscow in the past two years and has begun biggest gap exists right now, and I think if of the market against cheap Asian imports. dent of Chloé, which opened its first unit distributing its ready-to-wear and diffusion H&M were to set up in Moscow, they Russia’s textile and clothing industry in the capital in June. WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2004 13 WWW.WWD.COM

Indeed, regional variations in spend- for brands including Paul Smith, Russian genes, said Ella Krasner, a Olsen twins. The Mary-Kate and Ashley ing are huge. Nationally, monthly per Burberry, Christian Lacroix and . London-based Russian socialite and television series is already a hit among capita income averages about $140, Chanel has been present in Russia with writer. “Even middle-class people in young Russian teens and the twins recent- whereas Muscovites take in about $400. beauty products for two years through an Russia will save up money to buy a Prada ly graced the cover of Russian Elle Girl Even though only 7 percent of the popu- affiliate, and should end 2004 with more bag and Gucci shoes. It comes from being there. “We are seriously considering lation lives in the sprawling capital, it than 150 points of sale. A spokeswoman deprived for so many years.” Russia for 2006. Every day that goes by generates an estimated 25 percent of the said the beauty business is expected to Benetton, which has 115 stores in 39 becomes more viable due to the country’s total retail volume. grow 50 percent this year. She noted Russian cities, said the typical Benetton Westernization of the market, but we think Last year, rents for prime real estate in Russian consumers have a taste for its most customer in Russia is a middle-class it is between a year and a half to two years Moscow were $1,340 a square meter, accord- expensive beauty products, in large-size woman aged 20 to 35 with a monthly short of where it should be for our needs.” ing to the Economist Intelligence Unit. formats, and a craving for new products. income of $300 to $750. She buys clothes Others take a slightly more cautious Russia’s other populous cities, some Benacin noted he sees future growth in shops about once every four months. view. flush with oil money, include Samara, coming from cities and towns beyond the Benetton said its marketing research “Growth in Russia has been big, dou- Volgograd and Togliatti, which are seen capital, adding that Inter Parfums has shows the Russian woman is most con- ble-digits, but there will be a ceiling one as the next focal point for retail expan- seen the pace of its sales growth slacken cerned with quality, product assortment, day,” said Chopard’s Scheufele. “It will be sion. Other secondary cities include over the past two years due to stepped-up brand name and where it is made. like it was in the Middle East, which grew Ekaterinburg, Novosirbirsk, Perm and competition in Moscow. “You must have a brand. The Russian and grew and then suddenly hit the top. I Rostov. Russian customers are stereotyped for consumer needs and wants brand aware- think Russia still has a lot of potential Giorgio Armani is sticking with the big having flashy tastes, but some observers ness,” agreed Michael Rosenblat, ceo of and it should continue to grow very fast cities. The Italian designer operates two say the market is evolving quickly and Germany’s Tom Tailor, which currently over the next five years.” freestanding stores and three shop-in-shops becoming more sophisticated. boasts more than 40 points-of-sale in Dorota Gutkowska, general manager in Moscow. The plan is to add another of Levi Strauss in Eastern Europe, said Giorgio Armani boutique in Moscow and the Russia doesn’t hold as much potential as first Emporio Armani unit in St. Petersburg, Moscow remains an the Central European countries that just but not before the end of 2005 or early 2006. attractive market for many joined the European Union. She noted “What’s interesting is that there are Western brands despite that Levi’s has been sold in Russia since only two ‘lifestyle metropolises’ — name- recent turmoil in Russia. the early Nineties, with distribution at ly Moscow and St. Petersburg,” said a present through 103 Russian stores, 31 of spokesman for Germany’s Hugo Boss, which are Levi’s-only stores. Five stores which has been on the Russian market are in Moscow. A 2,000-square-foot flag- since 1992 with men’s wear and since ship opened early this summer on 2002 with women’s. “And in between, Tverskaya Street, a favorite shopping des- there are a further 25 cities with popula- tination for young Muscovites. tions of a million or more, which require “Nevertheless, in the longer term, the other strategies than is the case in fash- sheer size of the country and its con- ion-conscious Moscow.” sumer base makes Russia a market with Some firms are making inroads interesting development opportunities beyond the capital, such as Sonia Rykiel. for branded goods companies,” she said. “We’ve been in Russia for seven years. On the West Coast, doing business with We started in Moscow and St. Petersburg,” Russia is seen as too problematic due to a said Didier Grospiron, Rykiel’s interna- plethora of reasons ranging from strong- tional commercial director. “But now we’re men to style. sold in about 20 cities throughout Russia.” “Well, it’s the [cold] weather there and But a scarcity of prime retail space, the currency exchange for two things,” especially outside of Moscow, is consid- said Ilse Metchek, executive director of ered a key challenge. the California Fashion Association, who According to an executive at one large said California manufacturers tend to not Russian apparel brand: “There’s little do business with retailers in Russia. “And, competition between those shopping cen- it’s the size of the people. Our manufactur- ters with spacious retail floors, so they ers are oriented to juniors’ and contempo- charge inordinately high rents, creating rary and if you just envision Russians, obstacles for retailers’ expansion.” there aren’t too many manufacturers here The complexities of the Russian mar- that make things warm and large.” ket make having a partner a necessity, West Coast contractors are not sourcing according to most observers. goods from Russia, either. “I can only sur-

“Finding the right partner is the NIKISHIN/GETTY IMAGES, ANDREA JEMOLO/CORBIS PHOTOS BY mise that labor costs there are not as biggest challenge,” said Burberry’s cheap as China,” said Joe Rodriguez, exec- Bravo, who works with Jamilco. The new Burberry utive director of the Garment Contractors “I would dissuade anyone who plans to store in Moscow. Association, noting even Vietnam or do business in Russia without a local Cambodia would be more logical alliances partner,” agreed Caroline Scheufele, vice because of their geographic proximity to president and creative director of California. “Whenever an American or Chopard, which works with Mercury. “It’s Californian sources elsewhere, they’re just too complicated, between the lan- looking primarily for the lowest costs. I guage and the mentality.” would think they have other options here.” Grospiron at Rykiel agreed. “The On two separate occasions since 2001, country’s too different and the laws are a Russian delegation of retailers, includ- different. You need a partner to help ing GUM, came to Los Angeles to buy understand.” He added that one concern goods. They went home empty-handed. in Russia is getting paid. “We always ask “[The retailers] were commenting on to be paid in advance because you don’t the fact that California style and American know where the money’s coming from style [are] so different from European and when it may dry up,” he said. style, and European fashion is what Multinational perfumeries are choos- Russia is leaning toward,” said Olga ing to ally with local chains in Russia, Karasik, a corporate attorney who accom- according to Rimma Chainikova, a con- panied the Russians on their tour. “On the sultant with Moscow research group BKG flip side, they were finding it’s very diffi- Consultancy. cult to sell Russian [goods] here. There’s a “To construct stores so far from our clash on every style level.” [home] base would be complicated and Leon Max, owner of maxstudio.com in require a high level of investment,” said Daniele Ballestrazzi, a general direc- Russia. “Especially in women’s, clothes Pasadena, Calif., with 150 contemporary Marcel Frydman, president of Marionnaud, tor at Versace, said Russians tend to go have to be sexy. They want a tighter fit, stores worldwide, grew up in St. which has a franchise deal with Arbat for more of a “total look” than American shorter skirts, low rise. If it’s not sexy Petersburg and defected to the U.S. in the Prestige. “We could open one or two stores, and Western European customers, who enough, they won’t buy it.” mid-Seventies. He, too, has shunned but to cover the country would be a costly are more individual and self-confident. Most foreign players play down the doing business in Russia. “There’s a dis- ambition and would take a lot of time. He said Russian customers like to risk of economic or political turmoil. tinct lack of enforceable commercial Franchising doesn’t cost Marionnaud any- shop in big stores and boutiques in “We expect the economy in Russia will codes and contractual laws there,” he thing at all, so it means we don’t take any Russia or make purchases while travel- grow continuously,” the Metro spokesman said, noting that, just after the Soviet financial risks.” ing, with tastes ranging from flash to sub- said. “Our investments in these markets regime, there was even significant Already, Russia’s beauty scene is domi- stance. “The fashion and trendy are very are long-term oriented.” amounts of unclaimed retail real estate in nated by international brand names, well-received, but the Russian consumer “Russia has a very good chance to be cities like Moscow and St. Petersburg. which command 53 percent of total market likes to buy both trendy clothes as well as among the top seven European markets in “No one knew who owned the properties. share, according to Staraya Krepost. classic tailored suits,” Ballestrazzi said. three to five years,” said Martin Shankland, And up until a few years ago, one would Among the top-ranking multinationals are Russian Vogue’s Doletskaya said high- managing director of Adidas Russia. have to have protection from strongmen L’Oréal, Procter & Gamble and Beiersdorf. end shoppers are increasingly discerning, “We believe that the Russian market to do business and not be bothered with Indeed, competition in fragrance and even if they love recognizable fashion. has a voracious appetite for anything local bandits. I’m quite sure it’s still a cosmetics in Russia’s capital city is now “The women who do have money go for American, even more than in the markets problem around Russia. Also, there’s a as fierce as in more mature markets. the best: If they buy Vuitton, it will be the where the Mary-Kate and Ashley brand is growing middle class but a slow-growing “Today in Moscow, you can find the golden ostrich coat,” she said. “They want present,” said Robert Thorne, president of middle class. There are very few credit same offer as any Sephora in Paris,” said what’s most expensive, most fantastic and Dualstar Entertainment Group, the licens- cards in use. I’m better off opening a store Philippe Benacin, president of Inter most chic. Russians generally think big.” ing and production firm of the Mary-Kate in Glendale, [Calif.,] — and they speak Parfums SA, which holds beauty licenses A love of fashion is built into the and Ashley apparel line co-owned by the Russian just as well there.” 14 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM WWDWalkthrough: Ann Taylor

By Anamaria Wilson toe pumps, full skirts, sequined capelets) Nude strappy sandals. — I was ready for something as conven- NEW YORK — Let’s face it, Ann Taylor has tional as Ann Taylor. never been an emporium for the perenni- The store on Madison Avenue at 59th ally hip. I haven’t shopped there with any Street was a treat. It was expansive — sort of zeal since my college formals and, three floors and a mezzanine — and at sadly, that was about a decade ago. lunchtime it wasn’t particularly busy. The Occasionally over the years I’ve wan- mannequin and table displays featured dered in with my mother to help her find the green-printed dress and an array of things, but rarely anything for me. trousers and knit tops. After pouncing on However, after seeing the company’s the rack of dresses and rifling through new ad campaign for fall, shot by Annie them to find my size, I regained Leibovitz and, to celebrate its 50th my composure. After that, anniversary, featuring 50 models though, instead of some of all ages like , Patti sort of epiphany, it just Hansen, Angela Lindvall and felt like any Ann Taylor Frankie Rayder in clothes store. I could have been in that were pretty and even hip, Raleigh or Dallas, shop- my interest was piqued. ping with my mother or There was one piece in partic- even for my mother. ular, a green vintage-looking However, looking printed shirtdress modeled by around and sifting through

Karen Elson that looked very the racks more carefully, GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTOS BY Fifties, but right on trend. But it did- some cute and stylish pieces n’t stop there. The models also sported emerged. In a rather manic fashion, I great tweed jackets, satin blouses and lit- toured the first floor, gathering up a rose tle black cocktail dresses that were, well, tweed jacket, a dove gray silk charmeuse if not reminiscent of Holly Golightly, then blouse with silk covered buttons and deli- at least some TV movie version of her. cate puffed sleeves, a pale lime chiffon pretty. It would have worked So after New York Fashion Week — trimmed satin shirt, a black bouclé pencil well as a shell under a jacket, but during which I’d spent several days not skirt, a cashmere V-neck and a long- was a touch too blousy to be called only staring at models flaunting spring sleeved knit top that tied at the neck. After flattering. looks but editors and buyers sporting piling up an impressive armload of goods, Conchita was very diligent their own takes on fall’s fashions (round- a saleswoman by the name of Conchita about checking in to see if I need- asked very graciously if she could start a ed other sizes and also to get my The dove gray silk dressing room for me. Her manner was so opinion on it all. charmeuse blouse. lovely she could have been offering after- She took my things to the reg- noon tea as she led the way to a spotless ister as I trooped upstairs to check and spacious fitting room. out the rest of the goods. All the man- The much-coveted green dress fit per- nequins or bust displays around the fectly, but was also beautifully made store were merchandised well with with silk covered buttons, a side zip- cardigans shown fastened snugly with per to aid in slipping it on, a skinny sparkly brooches, blouses topped with The green vintage-looking printed shirtdress. yellow belt and even a half crino- strands of pearls and purses festooned line sewn onto the matching green with big Carrie Bradshaw flowers. On the pink-and-white tweed ones, which were . All for $199. mezzanine there were more tie blouses, too cute for me, but also roomy, colored The cashmere V-neck was but in silk, which I thought might work leather totes, which were alluring if I’d nice, but a touch boxy and itchy, better. The second floor was a marvel, been in the market for a bag. so for $120 it was a no. The black too. The shoes were cute (snobbery aside, Back downstairs, I tried on the ruby tweed pencil skirt, while the right I generally wear designer shoes, so for me skirt and the tie blouses. The skirt looked size, just wasn’t a flattering fit. Plus to even consider a pair of Ann Taylor terrible on; every bulge was, well, divulged. there was an additional seam that ran heels was surprising), especially a nude The blouses were sweet, but sweeter in parallel to the waistline, but about two pair of sandals with a thin stacked wood- editorial layouts and ads than on me. inches below it (almost a yoke but not en heel. The best part was that they were Conchita rang up the shoes, dress and quite) that made it all the worse. Other only $108 (turns out they were on sale for the dove gray blouse for a total of $417.55. women I’ve spoken with also have had $86.40, even better). I slipped on the heels and wore them the trouble with the fit of the skirts. One The salespeople on two were equally rest of the day. They remained comfort- found them too tight in the hip and too magnanimous in their service and in able throughout. I’ve worn the green loose in the waist, while another found relaying specifics on some of the evening- dress twice since; my mother loved it and the additional seam profoundly unflatter- wear separates. There was a ruby colored so did the überfashion-y girls at work. ing. The knit necktie top was cute, but not satin skirt with chiffon inserts that was It will be interesting to see if the com- me. The dove gray blouse with a hidden beautiful. There weren’t any of the black pany keeps up this handful of spot-on side zip was darling ($99), while the pale cocktail dresses in the ads, though there styles and becomes another place to shop lime chiffon and satin top, at $79, was were a lot of handbags. Not only salmon for me — and my mother. Pamela Anderson Supports the Troops By Karyn Monget inspired from her “Baywatch” gig on TV, Anderson said, “Guess what? I’ve tried on everything and everything works. Yes, the NEW YORK — “I’m going to see the Navy. I hope somebody lingerie actually works — it’s been Pamela tested and ap- shows up. That’s all I care about,” quipped Pamela Anderson proved.” The swimwear is licensed to California Sunshine, Wednesday on her way to officially unveil her line of licensed while others include lingerie by Vandale Industries, sportswear lingerie to a crew of 3,200 aboard the aircraft carrier USS by the Turk Group, footwear by Top Shoes, Belts by French Ronald Reagan in San Diego. One Navy officer was hand- LeCompte, and costume and silver jewelry by Lucas Design. picked to be Anderson’s escort and guard, a job Anderson jok- Another license that hasn’t been wear-tested but was ap- ingly referred to as “one of the tougher assignments.” proved by Anderson is a line of nonleather pet accessories Noting it was “all in a day’s work,” Anderson said the mar- called Pamela Pets, which she said was well received at the itime visit would include promotional stops at two Navy ex- MAGIC show in Las Vegas earlier this month. The line, pro- changes to plug a new line of nonleather Pamela Anderson duced by Chrome Bones, is inspired by her love of animals and shoes and her new novel, “Star: A Novel,” which spotlights the Star, her golden retriever. “I just love the Ultrasuede and can- sexual exploits of a Hollywood starlet. Released in August, vas leashes and all of the sparkly little things with little bones 150,000 copies have been sold and it’s in its second printing, and sayings like ‘Feed me’ and ‘Spoil Me,’” said Anderson. said Anderson, who will be doing a four-day book tour in the She added she’s planning to do two additional licenses: U.K. beginning in London Oct. 19. home accessories and children’s wear. “A home license and a Asked what she was wearing for the sailors, Anderson kid’s license are what I want to do next, really cute surf and replied, “I thought about dropping by Trashy Lingerie for an Malibu styles for boys and girls like little baggy shorts and outfit, but I’m playing it by ear. I’m not going as Marilyn beanies. I really want to work on building the licenses. I’m not Monroe. I’ll wear something simple, like a pair of jeans and doing it to get rich. I feel like I’m kind of jumping on the band- one of my T-shirts.” wagon a little bit, but for 10 years, people have been asking me Pamela Anderson Regarding her licensed products, which include swimwear to do a bathing suit line, ever since ‘Baywatch.’” WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2004 15

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P ARIS PREVIEW

Galeries Lafayette’s Madamet André he Bureaunew Politique schoolMona new teen floor. A few freshly minted retailers get set to greet the fashion crowd. By Robert Murphy Former Philippe Stark underling Kristian Gavoille designed it with simple sophisti- cation, including white leather stools and splashes of red on the walls. FALL’S CROP OF NEW SHOPS HERE COME IN ALL SIZES, FROM MADAME “We were shooting for a real Parisian feeling,” said Blonde. “We want it to show our André’s tiny and quirky boutique to Benetton’s sprawling flagship on the personal aesthetic. We’ve even asked designers to do limited editions for us.” Boulevard Haussmann and Galeries Lafayette’s 43,000-square-foot basement floor Meanwhile, Blonde said the small shoe store she operates on the nearby Rue des geared to teens. Canettes would be transformed into a vintage footwear showcase. Painted pink and packed with vintage jewelry, shoes, kimonos, slinky lingerie Jewelry house , part of the LVMH Moët Louis Vuitton stable, and brands like Gilles Dufour and Japan’s Bapy, Madame André is run by Chloé has given its revamped shop on the Place Vendôme more personality. Architect Jean- Para, a former fashion editor at Numero magazine who’s married to the popular Michel Wilmotte designed a sleek space with exotic-wood paneled walls. He linked Paris graffiti artist known as André. the ultramodern space downstairs to Chaumet’s gilt paneled first-floor museum. The (André is also behind the offbeat Black Block shop opened last year at the Palais inaugural exhibition features jewelry Napoleon gave to the women he loved. de Tokyo contemporary art museum.) Additionally, jewelry designer Marie-Helene de Taillac will open her first Paris “We wanted something very personal,” said Para. “We couldn’t do big, so we boutique at 8 Rue de Tournon, on the Left Bank, in early October. went eclectic.” Lingerie queen Chantal Thomass has staged a retail comeback on the Rue Saint- It might be petite, but Madame André is symbolic of a young generation of imag- Honoré. The space is pink and boudoir-themed, well-suited to her lacy confections. inative Parisians who are creating an alternate shopping experience. Para’s hus- Galeries Lafayette’s teen floor — dubbed VO — boasts a streetwear ambiance, band even decorated T-shirts, sweatshirts and blouses with customized ribbons replete with booming techno music mixed by a resident DJ installed in a camper. emblazoned with graffiti. VO has a “custom studio” where shoppers can customize their purchases and Ramdane Touhami’s Bureau Politique shop on the Rue des Ciseaux, on the “XXL” fitting rooms for groups of friends to try on clothes together. Left Bank, also captures the indie spirit. With a log-cabin facade, it hardly looks Merchandising is inventive. There is a “denim bar” with about 20 brands; a “must- like a clothing shop. But inside it’s studiously chic with polished hardwood floors, have alley” to find the latest hot styles, and a selection of Manga comics. A cafe has antique chandeliers and shelves covered in tartan fabric. washing machines where customers can sip a smoothie while doing laundry. “I wanted it to go against the grain,” explained Touhami, who also designs the Also on Boulevard Haussmann is Benetton’s new 40,000-square-foot, five-floor men’s wear offered inside. “I wanted something chic, but also something wacky.” megastore. Luciano Benetton said the unit, close to competitors Hennes & Mauritz On the nearby Rue Bonaparte, Mona Blonde has opened Mona, a 1,500-square- and Zara, is part of the Italian firm’s push to increase its profile in France, where foot shop clothes from Lanvin, Alexander McQueen and Azzedine Alaïa, it already operates 150 units. “We plan to open another 20 stores in France over the as well as shoes from Michel Vivien and Pierre Hardy. With no exterior markings, next two years,” said Benetton. “They’ll not be megastores like this one, but small- it’s a discreet presence just off the well-beaten Saint-Germain shopping circuit. er units. The megastore is for image, the smaller stores are for profits.”

striking presence with olive skin and deep green eyes. fashion festival in Hyeres, France, a few years ago, Anastase ones to watch “The clothes are sexy and modern,” she added. “They’re has used his drawings to illustrate advertising campaigns feminine and elegant, but with a rock ’n’ roll twist. I want to and in magazine fashion spreads. He also designed shoes make girls feel confident and pretty.” for France’s Eram. By Robert Murphy He said all his artistic activities come from a similar Charles Anastase, winner of a prestigious grant this year from urgency to give his fantasy world voice. “I like transforming Paris has long been a hotbed for young design talent. Here’s France’s ANDAM fashion foundation, will make his Paris the world,” he declared. a look at a few new names vying for the spotlight. runway debut Oct. 4. His style is playful and feminine, and he describes his effort for spring as being inspired by fairy Having honed his skills working three years with Hedi Slimane Anahita Vessier, 28, gives reworked vintage clothing a new tales of all sorts, from Grimm’s to “Alice in Wonderland.” at Dior Homme, Nicolas Andreas Taralis, 29, struck out on his spin, combining ethnic frills with an element of Parisian cool. “I like the idea of a giant girl wearing a shrunken own in March with a capsule collection. This season he’ll stage She founded her label — Anahita — this year after jacket,” the 25-year-old designer explained. “The color his first runway show, on Oct. 5 at the Rive Gauche nightclub. working at Vivienne Westwood, Nicole Farhi and E2. “I was patterns on the dresses are almost hallucinogenic.” Taralis, who studied at the Parsons School of Design and ready to do my own thing,” she explained. Like many young designers who have trouble finding a the University of Vienna, blends elements of punk rock and Her style is part party girl, part French sophisticate with backer, Anastase has learned to be self-reliant. His mother army uniforms for a style he calls “androgynous with a strict cocktail dresses in bright colors decked out with graphic knitted the one-of-a-kind sweaters in his collection, and he’s silhouette. I feel that they are clothes to be worn at night.” Seventies-style sequin decorations. Blouses reveal the navel, uncovered several small ateliers outside of Paris to sew up Coats and trousers, for instance, are decorated with and military vests are embroidered with fruit. his creations. bands and utility straps. “There is a fetishistic part in the “The creations are all one-of-a-kind,” said Vessier. “I like the human, artisanal touch,” he explained. collection,” said Taralis, who was born in Canada. “There’s But what sets Vessier apart is Striking in Anastase is his a little punk rock to it, too. The that she doesn’t only scour flea talent for drawing. Many of the collection’s all black and white.” Anahita Charles markets for old frocks, which Vessier prints in his collection are ultra- Denim, from miniskirts to she then recuts and decorates realistic renderings of his friends, Anastase tight trousers decorated with — she also travels abroad in and he has made a collection of spangles, adds another masculine search of old fabrics. ornate hand-painted silk T-shirts. aspect to his designs. “I learned a Nicolas A recent trip to Iran yielded His drawings are also featured in lot with Hedi, but I’ve always Andreas several bolts of richly a porcelain collection that he has thought of myself as a women’s Taralis embroidered silks. “The next created with Jacqueline designer,” said Taralis. “But when collection is inspired by Champagne. I do feminine and soft, it still has

Afghanistan,” explained Vessier, a Since participating in the a uniform side to it.” THIERRY CHOMEL AND STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTOS BY

OCTOBER / DECEMBER 2004

FASHION SHOWS CULTURAL EVENTS IN PARIS JOURNÉES DU PRÊT-À-PORTER OPÉRA DES COUTURIERS OPÉRA NATIONAL DE PARIS BASTILLE ET DES CRÉATEURS DE MODE Pelleas et Melisande by Claude Debussy 2005 Spring - Summer Ready-to-Wear Collections October 4 -12 OPÉRA NATIONAL DE PARIS GARNIER L’Italiana in Algeri by Gioacchino For information, please contact : Rossini Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers THÉÂTRE DES CHAMPS-ELYSÉES et des Créateurs de Mode La Cenerentola by Gioachino Rossini Tel. : +33 (0)1 42 66 64 44 www.modeaparis.com EXHIBITIONS MUSÉE D’ORSAY New York et l’art moderne TRADE SHOWS MUSÉE DE LA MODE ET DU TEXTILE WORKSHOP Le Cas du Sac October 7-11 Cercle Républicain & Hôtel Régina FONDATION PIERRE BERGÉ – Tel : +33 (0)1 44 54 10 90 YVES SAINT LAURENT Yves Saint Laurent dialogue avec l’art LE SHOW-ROOM HORTENSIA DE HUTTEN October 7-11 MUSÉE GUIMET Espace Richelieu Lumières de soie Tel : +33 (0)1 44 74 60 21 FONDATION CARTIER POUR L’ART TRANOÏ CONTEMPORAIN Paris Designers Show Pain Couture by Jean-Paul Gaultier October 7-10 Bourse du Commerce MUSÉE MAILLOL Tel : +33 (0)1 53 01 84 93 Serge Poliakoff TRANOÏ SUR SEINE CENTRE GEORGES POMPIDOU Paris Designers Show Sons & Lumières October 7-10 Emmanuel Saulnier 30, Quai d’Austerlitz Tel : +33 (0)1 53 01 84 93 MUSÉE DU LUXEMBOURG Veronese Profane ATMOSPHERE D’ÉTÉ October 7-10 Jardin des Tuileries & Hôtel Saint James For further information, please contact : Tel : +33 (0)1 44 94 70 00 The Office de Tourisme de Paris www.paris-touristoffice.com 19 Vendôme October 8-11 19 place Vendôme Tel : 01 42 86 98 28 PREMIÈRE CLASSE The Fashion Accessories Trade Show October 8-11 Jardin des Tuileries-Terrasse des Feuillants Tel : +33 (0)1 40 13 74 70 PARIS SUR MODE October 8-11 Jardin des Tuileries-Terrasse des Feuillants Tel : +33 (0)1 49 09 60 00 18 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2004

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P ARIS PREVIEW

A few spots for relaxing, dining, shopping and appreciating culture during collections. — Chantal Goupil, Robert Murphy, Emilie Marsh, scene Brid Costello and Gretchen Worsely

BABY BOOM: Celesta, a trendy new boutique in the Marais, AT THE SAVOY: Guy Savoy, the beloved three-star chef, believes a taste for fashion starts early: from newborns to strikes again with Le Chiberta, a chic new bistro. Designer age eight. “The [children’s retail] market in Paris needed a Jean-Michel Wilmotte created a predominantly black trendy multibrand store for infants,” said owner Marlène decor, with a large Bertrand Lavier painting in one dining Pellici, who also designs a small collection of her own. Up- room and a red Gérard Traquandi in the other. Whether and-coming European labels such as Pilar, Rita Co Rita, starting with vichyssoise with watercress or egg in a veg- Simple Kids, Essentiel and Maan are among the upscale etable and mushroom aspic, the mouth waters. And it gets brands on offer. The 3,000-square-foot emporium also sells better with John Dory fish with tomatoes, leeks and melted toys and is equipped with giant televisions blasting nonstop parmesan, or Espelette pepper pigeon with tender string cartoons to keep the kiddies occupied. Meanwhile, the Left beans. And anyone could just melt for the praline choco- Bank also has a new addition for new additions: late fondant. Serendipity specializes in designer furniture and Le Chiberta: 3 Rue Arsène Houssaye, 331-53-53-42-00. decorations for toddlers. Celesta: 23 Rue Debelleyme, 331-42-72-15-59; Le Chiberta is Guy Savoy’s newest outpost. Serendipity: 17 Rue des Quatre-Vents, 331-40-46-01-15.

Celesta targets trendy kids. Xavier Veilhan’s “Light Machine, No. 3, The Eye.”

ARTFUL ABUNDANCE: Fall is a feast for art lovers in Paris. Besides a round of blockbuster museum shows — including the Modern Art Museum’s exhibition of Maurizio Cattelan in the chapel at the Beaux-Arts and the Veronese show at the Luxembourg Museum — Pierre et Gilles are showing new work at the Emanuel de Noirmont gallery, and the Bernadette Corp. is making the transition from fashion to art at Yvon Lambert, who is also featuring Jenny Holzer. PAST PRESENT: Fashion More fashion crossover acts icons never die in France; include Hedi Slimane, they get the museum whose photos of rock PRIMPING IN PARIS: Hair chain Jacques Dessange marked treatment. At least, that’s concerts are on display at its 50th anniversary by sprucing up its 10,764-square-foot the case with Sylvie Galerie Almine Rech, and flagship. It features endless styling, treatment and coloring Vartan, the pop chanteuse Frank Perrin, the founder stations, a nail bar and private VIP rooms. In the basement, who first gained of Crash magazine, who will the Rose Institute offers the sumptuous “Soins aux Fleurs,” popularity in the Sixties. show pictures of the runway or “Treatment With Flowers,” a two-hour extravagance The Galliera museum of juxtaposed with joggers at that includes a body scrub, a long soak in a bath filled with fashion has organized an Jousse Enterprise. Over at rose petals and essential oils, a full body massage and exhibition around the the Pompidou Center, head-and-shoulder touches with tuning forks. Meanwhile, evolution of Vartan’s style, French artist Xavier the new Arc de Triomphe Hilton has unveiled Spa Mosaïc, including her wedding Veilhan is exhibiting his a 4,300-square-foot spa using Decleor and Carita products. gown for her marriage to striking “light machines” The space, which also includes a hammam, a sauna and a former husband Johnny and installations in his first fitness center, features a hydro-tonic Jacuzzi that massages Hallyday, France’s answer solo show. Concurrently, the every muscle. A 20-minute eye contour treatment costs $37 to Elvis. The show, which Pompidou has “Sound and (30 euros), while a 90-minute intense moisturizing facial is runs Oct. 14 to Feb. 27, Light,” exploring those $138 (112 euros). corresponds with Vartan’s themes with works by Dessange Paris: 39 Avenue Franklin Roosevelt, 331-43-59-31-31. revival tour, for which Sylvie Vartan’s Chanel outfit. Pierre Huyghes, Bill Viola Spa Mosaïc: 51/57 Rue de Courcelles, 331-58-36-68-09. Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld and Bruce Nauman. Also has whipped up her costumes. notable are Chinese artist Galleria: 10 Avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie; Wong Du’s installations, on 33-156-52-86-00. view at the Palais de Tokyo.

A room at the Hotel de Sers. SERS AND HIS: Paris’ “golden triangle” has gained another exclusive four-star hotel. Situated off Avenue George V, what used to be the Marquis de Sers Hotel received an overhaul to restore 19th-century details, but within an overall contemporary scheme. French architect Thomas Vidalenc mixes modern and classic styles, and the 52 rooms and six suites are all bright and spacious. A majestic staircase leads to a bar with a restored marble fireplace and parquet floor, while a long gallery leads to the restaurant and a courtyard. Standard rooms start at $480, while a breathtaking panoramic suite goes for $1,300. Hotel de Sers: 41 Avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie, 331-53-2375-75. Jacques Dessange after its makeover.

20 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2004

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P ARIS PREVIEW lancel’s new thrust

By Robert Murphy to riff on its classic “bucket” bag. “Asking outside talent to design prod- ucts is something that we’ll probably continue,” Guichot said. “We’ve COULD LANCEL BECOME THE FRENCH COACH? also revitalized the creative process and brought in more free- The 128-year-old accessories firm’s president, Isabelle lance designers.” Guichot, certainly hopes so, and she has set the ball rolling by Lancel declined to provide any figures, but market sources revamping designs, introducing snappier advertising (featuring estimate the business generates about $100 million in rev- Liz Hurley for fall) and angling to build business in the key U.S. enues annually. and Japanese markets. Guichot said leather goods make up the lion’s share of “The brand’s been dusty,” acknowledged Guichot, who took Lancel Lancel’s sales, with gifts and watches comprising the rest. She the reins at the Richemont-owned firm last year. “But we’re president declined to project a sales impact of the new strategy, but said waking it up, introducing more exciting products and a wider Isabelle she is shooting for “important” panoply of prices.” Guichot. growth over the next few years. Guichot, who also oversees Richemont’s Van Cleef & Arpels This month, Lancel reopened fine jewelry business, sees Lancel filling an undersupplied — its 7,000-square-foot flagship on but increasingly important — niche: affordable luxury. the Place de l’Opéra, which had “There’s huge potential for luxury access products from a been under renovation for a strong brand,” she asserted. With the average price for a handbag in year. Guichot described the airy the 200 to 300 euro range ($245 to $370 at current exchange), design as more in line with the she calls Lancel “democratic luxury. But we’re not com- company’s future. promising on design.” Meanwhile, next year another To wit: Lancel has invited four young designers — large shop is slated to bow on the Tim Van Steenbergen, Yazbukey, Erick Champs Elysées. All told, Lancel Halley and Xavier Delcour — has 60 shops in France, 10 in the rest of Europe and 30 in China. At present, the brand has no retail presence in the U.S. But this November it will relaunch in America, where the company has had an on-again, off-again presence, with a showroom presentation in New York. The Guichot said she expects to remodeled sign about 20 accounts for in- Place de store shops with major retailers l’Opéra in the U.S. over the next couple flagship. of years. Likewise, Lancel will A redesigned “bucket” bag by Xavier Delcour. relaunch in Japan this year.

Azzedine Alaïa in his Paris alaia’s alley boutique.

AZZEDINE ALAIA IS A RELATIVELY DISCREET And so when will the next one be ready, exactly? presence on the Parisian fashion scene, prone to “I’ll let you know,” he said with a coy smile. working at any and all hours of the day or night — Alas, his on-my-own-terms spirit is intact, along breaking only to share meals in his massive kitchen with a mischievous streak well known among his with a far-flung group of fashion friends. intimates. As much as he is driven to work, he loves And it’s been an exceptionally busy year. During gossiping, telling funny stories and lavishing atten- Paris Fashion Week, Alaïa will finally unveil his long- tion on people he likes. awaited three-room hotel — named after the Yet he’s clearly proud of the commercial momen- address, 5 Rue de Moussy — and also invite buyers to tum of his business. In Paris alone, he recently chris- see a new summer 2005 collection. tened major in-store shops in Galeries Lafayette and Not bad for a designer known for a my-way-or-the- Le Bon Marche. highway stubbornness that in the past meant sporadic This month, he opened a shop at his friend Rei Yet Alaïa assured that nothing has changed in the way collections and infrequent deliveries. He may still be a Kawakubo’s latest out-there retail venture: her he does his business. “They leave me free, and freedom painstaking perfectionist, but a streak of efficiency and Dover Street Market emporium, which mixes Comme is very important to me,” he said. “It’s an ideal marriage.” energy has swept into his fashion house since Prada des Garçons brands with other designers in a market- Alaïa’s ready-to-wear collection is produced by a Group purchased 100 percent of it four years ago. like, industrial setting. There, Alaïa sells not only his network of directly managed external suppliers, with To wit: Net sales at Alaïa more than doubled last shapely, sexy clothes, but also select pieces of mid- part of the collection — and all couture — produced year to 5.3 million euros ($6.5 million at current century furniture and jewelry. directly in his Paris atelier. At present, Alaïa counts exchange), and a “very positive” trend has continued Besides his low-key flagship on Rue de Moussy, about 50 employees. into 2004, according to a Prada spokesman in Milan. Alaïa has about 110 wholesale clients, from specialty Over the past year, Alaïa’s complex in the Marais In an interview, Alaïa confessed: “It’s more my tem- stores in small Italian resort towns to major presen- — where he also lives — has been an active con- perament to do only two collections a year, but I do four.” tations at Barneys New York. struction site. “It works very well in the ,” he said. Besides the hotel, he’s planning a new boutique “They are very loyal.” for shoes and handbags adjacent to the clothing Julie Gilhart, vice president and fashion director store, as well as a gallery to feature design objects he at Barneys, confirmed that the Alaïa business has likes, such as those by his friend Marc Newson. advanced as deliveries have improved. Other product categories are in the works — includ- “People are able to showcase Alaïa more,” she ing a line of sunglasses and a fragrance — but only on said. “It allows his devoted customer to get merchan- his own terms, which have not yet been satisfied. dise — and buy more — and to attract new clients. Meanwhile, Alaïa himself oversaw every detail of “In terms of design, he just gets better and bet- the hotel, from the multi-branch Serge Mouille lamps ter,” Gilhart continued. “He always does new things, to the placement of furniture by Jean Prouvé and but always in the same vernacular. And the quality is Pierre Paulin. excellent.” The 1,300-square-foot suites, which rent for 400 To be sure, being part of Prada Group has helped euros ($490) a night, were conceived as apartments, Views of the hotel suites, which Alaïa vastly expand his collection of footwear and hand- with complete kitchens, flat-screen TVs and Internet feature midcentury furniture. bags — and the designer is full of praise for the assis- access. The staff serves continental breakfast, and can tance of Prada design director Fabio Zambernardi. arrange for food deliveries from the neighborhood. ANCEL PHOTOS BY PHILIPPE GONDER AND PATRICIA CANINO; ALAIA BY STEPHANE FEUGERE CANINO; ALAIA BY PHILIPPE GONDER AND PATRICIA ANCEL PHOTOS BY L WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2004 21

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P ARIS PREVIEW leroux forlaroche

“CLASSIC AND CHIC” IS HOW HERVE L. LEROUX DESCRIBES HIS DEBUT collection for the house of Guy Laroche, which he will unveil on the runway here Oct. 10. “There’s nothing wrong with the word classical,” he said. “I like that a woman can take one of my dresses from the closet three years after she bought it and still wear it.” Leroux, known as Hervé Léger until Max Azria ousted him from his namesake house in 1999, was hired in June by Hervé L. Laroche. He follows a flood of designers including Ronald Leroux van der Kemp, Sophie Sitbon, Mei Zaio Zhou and, most recently, Laetitia Hecht, all of whom had little success catching the industry’s eye. Leroux, who earned wide recognition at Leger for his flattering band dresses, hopes to build Laroche into a respectable name again. “It’s a good brand,” he said. “It still stands out in people’s minds.” Leroux expects support from the house’s new owners, YGM Trading Ltd., a publicly traded clothing firm in Hong Kong that bought Laroche in June from Switzerland’s Leman Capital. Laroche managing director Jean-François Ferrandiz said the house plans to open a boutique in Paris early next year and build its business in the U.S. Last year, Laroche did some 10 mil- lion euros, or about $12 million, in sales, mostly from licensing royalties. Known for his sculptural evening gowns, Leroux said he would concentrate on eveningwear at Laroche. “I like making dresses,” said Leroux, who will continue to operate his own made-to-measure business on the Left Bank in Paris. Those clothes are sold in Bergdorf Goodman. Leroux said he gravitates to “timeless” fashion with a shot of sex appeal. Grace Kelly is among his style icons. For spring, his draped, body-conscious gowns are tempered by sleek suits for day. Much of Leroux’s work is in details and sharp sil- Two looks from houettes. “Laroche said a woman should be as beautiful when she enters a room Leroux’s first as when she leaves,” said Leroux, explaining draping at the back of several dress- collection for es and jackets. “I’m not interested in designing for fashion victims. I make clothes the house of to make women more beautiful.” Guy Laroche. — Robert Murphy inspired extravagance

IS THIS A TONY DUQUETTE “They’re all one-of-a-kind moment? It would seem so, with a pieces, mostly brooches, book by Wendy Goodman about bracelets and rings,” he said. the Hollywood decorator and his “After the maximalism of fantastical tastes in the pipeline minimalism, it’s time for Tony for next year. Meanwhile, a line of Duquette and one-of-a-kind Tony Duquette furniture is being pieces, which is really the readied for late 2005, and Paris- definition of luxury.” Gn’s based designer Andrew Gn has Duquette inspiration includes found inspiration in Duquette for chinoiserie to jewelry inte- his spring collection. grated onto clothes. Helena If minimalism is yesterday’s Rubinstein, one of Duquette’s story could there be a better poster most famous fashion clients, boy for the new neo-Baroque than also influenced Gn’s look for Duquette? He created luxury with spring. “It’s so damn rich,” exotic excess, cross-cultural refer- said the designer of Rubin- ences and by unapologetically stein and Duquette’s tastes using cheap materials such as for mixing the high and low Coke caps to make a mirror, or glu- to grandiose effect. To wit: ing plastic serving trays onto the Gn has embroidered coral ceiling at his Hollywood Hills stu- motifs on dramatic dresses dio. “It was Baroque-psychedelic,” and then embroidered them said Gn. “He mixed the real and with real coral, or embroi- fake. It was about being fabulous.” dered scores of semiprecious Duquette, who died at 85 in stones on tops and gowns. 1999, worked for socialites and Meanwhile, Gn said it’s all celebrities such as Doris Duke, J. for a good cause. In Nov- Paul Getty and the Duchess of ember, he’ll travel to Los Windsor. He also dazzled them Angeles for a trunk show with extravagant jewelry that where profits will go to Step mixed precious and nonprecious Up, a not-for-profit ovarian stones. Some of that vintage jew- cancer research foundation. elry will be used in Gn’s show, There will be a gala and a said Hutton Wilkinson, who was dinner in Tony Duquette’s Duquette’s business partner and Two looks by Andrew Gn inspired by Tony Duquette. former house. who now oversees his estate. — R.M. PHOTOS BY THIERRY CHOMEL PHOTOS BY 22 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2004

P ARIS PREVIEW paris show calendar

The following is the ready-to-wear show schedule. Times and locations are subject to change. Attendees are encouraged to confirm information.

MONDAY, OCT. 4 Bouffes du Nord, 37 bis Boulevard 4:30 p.m.: Comme Des Garçons, To 1 p.m.: Anabela Baldaque, Salle 5:30 p.m.: Lempicka, 9:30 a.m.: Isabelle Ballu, Bastille de la Chapelle, 18th be confirmed. Wagram, 39 Avenue de Wagram, 17th Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Le Nôtre Design Center, 74 Boulevard 8 p.m.: AF Vandervorst, Elysée 5:30 p.m.: Costume National, École 2 p.m.: Helmut Lang, 84 Rue 6:30 p.m.: Martin Margiela, Salle Richard Lenoir, 11th Montmartre, 72 Boulevard Nationale Supérieure des Beaux Georges Lafont, 16th Charlie Parker, Halle de la Villette, 10:30 a.m.: Wendy & Jim, Espace Rochechouart, 18th Arts, 14 Rue Bonaparte, 6th. 3 p.m.: Cosmic Wonder, Palais de 211 Avenue Jean Jaurès, 19th Saint-Martin, 199 bis Rue Saint- 9 p.m.: Yohji Yamamoto, Le Carreau 6:30 p.m.: Jean Paul Gaultier, 325, Tokyo, 13 Avenue du Président 8 p.m.: Alexander McQueen, Palais Martin, 3rd du Temple, 5/7 Rue Dupetit Rue Saint-Martin, 3rd. Wilson, 16th Omnisport Paris Bercy, 12th 11:30 a.m.: Bless, Carrousel du Thouars, 3rd 7:30 p.m.: Issey Miyake by Naoki 3:30 p.m.: Isabel Marant, École Louvre, Salle Soufflot Takizawa, Carreau du Temple, 5/7 Nationale Supérieure des Beaux SATURDAY, OCT. 9 Noon: Charles Anastase, UCAD, Hall TUESDAY, OCT. 5 Rue Dupetit Thouars, 3rd Arts, 14 Rue Bonaparte, 6th 10 a.m.: Nina Ricci, Museum des Maréchaux, 107 Rue de Rivoli, 1st 9:30 a.m.: , 15 Rue 7 p.m.: Hartmann Nordenholz, 1 4:30 p.m.: Viktor & Rolf, Espace National d’Histoire Naturelle, 36 12:30 p.m.: Tim Van Steenbergen, Cassettes, 6th Rue de Minimes, 3rd Ephémère Tuileries, Jardin des Rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire, 5th Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Gabriel 10:30 a.m.: Junya Watanabe, To be 8:30 p.m.: Fatima Lopes, Salle Tuileries, 1st 11 a.m.: Dice Kayek, Carrousel du 1:30 p.m.: Oscar Carvallo, Hôtel confirmed Wagram, 39 Avenue de Wagram, 17th 5:30 p.m.: Katty Xiomara, Salle Louvre, Salle Soufflot Meurice, Salons Pompa dour et 11:30 a.m.: Vivienne Westwood, 9 p.m.: Nicolas Andreas Taralis, Le Wagram, 39 Avenue de Wagram, 17th Noon: Paco Rabanne, Carrousel du Tuileries, 228 Rue de Rivoli, 1st Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Delorme Rive Gauche, 1 Rue de Sabot 6th 6 p.m.: , Couvent des Louvre. Salle Delorme 2 p.m.: Bruno Pieters, Espace Pierre 12:30 p.m.: Marithé & Francois Cordeliers, 15 Rue de l’Ecole de 1 p.m.: Cacharel, Carrousel du Cardin, 3 Avenue Gabriel, 8th Girbaud, Carrousel du Louvre, Salle WEDNESDAY, OCT. 6 Médecine, 6th Louvre, Salle Le Nôtre 3 p.m.: Sharon Wauchob, École Le Nôtre 9:30 a.m.: Andrew Gn, Carrousel du 7 p.m.: Véronique Branquinho, 2 p.m.: Yoichi Nagasawa, Carrousel Nationale Supérieure des Beaux 1:30 p.m.: ES, Atelier Richelieu, 60, Louvre, Salle Gabriel Elysée Montmartre, 72 Boulevard du Louvre, Salle Gabriel Arts, 14 Rue Bonaparte, 6th Rue de Richelieu, 2nd 10:30 a.m.: Lagerfeld Gallery, Rochechouart, 18th 3 p.m.: Chloé, Espace Ephémère 4 p.m.: Gaspard Yurkievich, Salle 2:30 p.m.: Christian Dior, Espace Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Delorme 8 p.m.: Dries Van Noten, Babcock & Tuileries, Jardin des Tuileries, 1st Wagram, 39 Avenue de Wagram, 17th Ephémère, Tuileries, Jardin des 11:30 a.m.: Melodie Wolf, Studio Wilcox, 80 Rue Emile Zola, La 4 p.m.: Junko Shimada, Carrousel du 5 p.m.: Christian Wijnants, Salle Tuileries, 1st 101, 1 Rue du Mail, 2nd Courneuve Louvre, Salle Soufflot Wagram, 39 Avenue de Wagram, 17th 3:30 p.m.: Moon Young Hee, Salle 11:30 a.m.: Stella Cadente, 5 p.m.: Hermès, École Nationale 6 p.m.: Lutz, Salle Wagram, 39 Wagram, 39 Avenue de Wagram, 17th Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot THURSDAY, OCT. 7 Supérieure des Beaux Arts, 14 Rue Avenue de Wagram, 17th 4 p.m.: Naco, Salle Wagram, 39 12:30 p.m.: Emanuel Ungaro, 10 a.m.: Stella McCartney, Palais Bonaparte, 6th 7 p.m.: Undercover, Théâtre des Avenue de Wagram, 17th Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Le Nôtre Brongniart, Place de la Bourse, 2nd 6:30 p.m.: Barbara Bui, Salle Wagram, 11 a.m.: Zucca, Garage de la 39 Avenue de Wagram, 17th Bastille, 45 Rue du Faubourg Saint- 8 p.m.: John Galliano, Théâtre de Antoine,11th l’Empire, 37 Avenue de Wagram, 17th 11:30 a.m.: Martin Grant, Cloître des Billettes, 24 Rue des Archives, 4th SUNDAY, OCT. 10 Noon: Léonard, Carrousel du Louvre, 9:30 a.m.: Rochas, Espace Salle Delorme Ephémère Tuileries, Jardin des 1 p.m.: Marongiu, Carrousel du Tuileries, 1st Louvre, Salle Gabriel 10:30 a.m.: Jean-Louis Scherrer, 1:30 p.m.: Michel Klein, 14 Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot Boulevard Haussmann, 9th 11:30 a.m.: Valentino, Carrousel du 2 p.m.: Tsumori Chisato, Carrousel Louvre, Salle Le Nôtre du Louvre, Salle Le Nôtre 12:30 a.m.: Collette Dinnigan, 3 p.m.: Atsuro Tayama, Carrousel du Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Gabriel Louvre, Salle Soufflot 1:30 p.m.: Guy Laroche, Carrousel 4 p.m.: Celine, Espace Ephémère du Louvre, Salle Delorme Tuileries, Jardin des Tuileries, 1st 3 p.m.: Louis Vuitton, Serre du Parc 5 p.m.: Jean-Luc Amsler, Salle André Citroën, Rue de la Montagne Wagram, 39 Avenue de Wagram, 17th de la Fage, 15th 5:30 p.m.: Hussein Chalayan, 4 p.m.: Yoshiki Hishinuma, Salle Couvent des Cordeliers, 15 Rue de Wagram, 39 Avenue de Wagram, 17th l’École de Médecine, 6th 5 p.m.: Lanvin, Salle Wagram, 39 6 p.m.: Impasse de la Défense, Salle Avenue de Wagram, 17th Wagram, 39 Avenue de Wagram, 17th 6:30 p.m.: , Palais Omnisport 6:30 p.m.: Veronique Leroy, Passage Paris Bercy, Salle Marcel Cerdant, 12th du Grand Cerf, 2nd 8:30 p.m.: Yves Saint Laurent, To be 7:30 p.m.: Fabrics Interseason, confirmed Studio 101, 1 Rue du Mail, 2nd 8 p.m.: Ann Demeulemeester, Carreau MONDAY, OCT. 11 du Temple, 2/4 Rue Perrée, 3rd 10:30 a.m.: Yuki Torii, Carrousel du 9 p.m.: Y’s/Y3, 211, Avenue Jean Louvre, Salle Gabriel Jaures, La Villette 11:30 a.m.: Lie Sang Bong, Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot FRIDAY, OCT. 8 12:30 p.m.: Hiromichi Nakano, École 10:30 a.m.: Chanel, Carrousel du Nationale Supérieure des Beaux Louvre, Salles Delorme et Gabriel Arts, 14 Rue Bonaparte, 6th 11:30 a.m.: Akris, Carrousel du 1:30 p.m.: Enzu Van, Salle Wagram, Louvre, Salle Soufflot 39 Avenue de Wagram, 17th Noon: Fifi Chachnil, Lido de Paris, 2:30 p.m.: Silvia Tcherassi, Carrousel 116 Avenue des Champs-Elysées, 8th du Louvre, Salle Soufflot 12:30 p.m.: Blaak, La Scala, 188 3:30 p.m.: John Ribbe, Carrousel du bis, Rue de Rivoli, 1st Louvre, Salle Gabriel 1:30 p.m.: Sonya Rykiel, Espace 4:30 p.m.: Walter Rodrigues, To be Ephémère Tuileries, Jardin des confirmed Tuileries, 1st 5:30 p.m.: Impasse de la Défense, 2:30 p.m.: Keita Maruyama, Hôtel Salle Wagram, 39 Avenue de Intercontinental, 3 Rue de Wagram, 17th Castiglione, 1st 6:30 p.m.: Xuly Bet, Carrousel du 3:30 p.m.: Rick Owens, Carreau du Louvre, Salle Gabriel Temple, 2/4 Rue Perrée , 3rd 7:30 p.m.: Katherine Pradeau, 4:30 p.m.: Christian Lacroix, École Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot Nationale Supérieure des Beaux 8:30 p.m.: Alphadi, Carrousel du Arts, 14 Rue Bonaparte, 6th Louvre, Salle Le Nôtre WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2004 23

WWW.WWD.COM in the bag

WHEN DID THE HANDBAG BECOME A FASHION ed at the time of the essay,” said Saillard. “Le fetish? It started with the sexual revolution in the Corbusier drew parallels between his architecture Seventies and snowballed as women came out of the and the minimalist purity of the Hermès bag.” kitchen and into the workplace. But even if handbags have only recently become a At least that’s the answer proposed by “Le Cas du fashion obsession, the vogue for vintage purses has Sac,” an exhibition of more than 400 bags at the deep roots, according to the exhibition. Museum of Fashion and Textiles here through Feb. 20. “It’s an old story,” explained Saillard. “The first (While the phrase translates to “The Case of the Bag,” wave for vintage began in the 19th century. Women the official English title of the exhibition and its would recuperate the hardware from 18th-century accompanying catalogue is “Carried Away.”) bags to make a new one.” Purses and handbags from Co-organized by Hermès, it traces the bag’s evolu- — Robert Murphy “Le Cas du Sac.” tion in civilizations across PETER HORNER AND E. BERRY J.M. TINGAUD, PHOTOS BY the world, from the Dark Ages to modern times. A dozen spe- cialists — in fields from nomad and Arab cultures to African and Native Ameri- 2005 spring-summer collection can art — contributed to the show. “The initial idea was that from 8th when you open someone’s bag and examine its contents, you know a lot about the per- son,” explained Stephane to 11th October 2004 Wargnier, Hermès’ corporate communications director. “The bag is emblematic of the self.” And what did women carry in their bags before mobile phones, car keys and paris lipstick? “In the Middle Ages, the bag had religious connota- tions,” said Olivier Saillard, the fashion museum conser- sur mode vator who co-organized the show. “Purses were richly decorated with ornate hard- future generation fashion exhibition ware. Inside, [women] car- ried relics, such as the hair of a saint.” Whether it was to carry food or to hide the letters of jardin des tuileries a lover, the bag has always mirrored changes in society, Saillard said. rue de rivoli In the late 19th century, for example, as the European elite began to travel, the first Goyard and Louis Vuitton modifications. 75001paris steamer trunks were born. The show draws parallels between these and the bags from 10 am to 7 pm Bedouins throw on the backs of camels. “Both reflect a nomadic culture,” Saillard said. Meanwhile, the handbag enjoyed the most popularity in periods when clothing was worn close to the body. “When fashions are close to the body, the bag is worn on the exterior of the 00 39 ITALY • A MON AVIS • ACCOSTAGES • AMERICAN RETRO • AOYAMA ITCHOME • ARAYAL • AUTRE CHOSE • BA & SH • clothes,” said Saillard, point- BELLVILLE SASSOON - LORCAN MULLANY • BENSIMON COLLECTION • BLANCS MANTEAUX • BP STUDIO • CADOLLE CREATION ing to the Middle Ages as a prime example. “In the 18th • CATHERINE ANDRE • CENTURY BOX • CÉZAR'S • CHARLIE-JOE • CHINE COLLECTION • CORINNE COBSON • CRISTIANO century, the clothes were FISSORE • DA-NANG/RANGOON STITCH’S • DEROMI • DES PETITS HAUTS • DIDIER LUDOT "LA PETITE ROBE NOIRE" • DONASSY voluminous, and the bag was hidden under the . • EAVIS & BROWN • EQUIPMENT • ESTRELLA G. • HALE BOB • HEIDE OST • HELENE CLEMENT • HONORE • HOUSE OF The Chinese didn’t have a DELPHINE • INIS MEAIN, IRELAND • IRENE VAN RYB • JENNY JEN • JEROME L'HUILLIER • JOE'S JEANS - RAW 7- LOONEY TUNES very strong bag culture until recently, because their - BC COMICS • JUST IN CASE • KEL EWEY • LEBOR GABALA • LEÏKO • LES PETITES • LIN'N LAUNDRY • LORENA ANTONIAZZI • clothes were traditionally LUNA BI • MADS NORGAARD • MAGASCHONI • MANUELLE GUIBAL • MARTUCCI ROMA • MICHAEL AZU • MIREYA RUIZ • very loose.” Function has always been MONICA • NO COLLECTION • NOON • OGGITERSEN • PALPITATION • PARRONCHI CASHMERE • PETROVITCH & ROBINSON • primordial to the bag — even ROBERTO COLLINA • RUE JACOB • SHE'S SO • SHI CASHMERE • SOIR DE LUNE • SOPHIA SWIRE LONDON • STELLA FOREST • in its most chic forms. For example, in a little- SURTAPEAU • SYLVIE SCHIMMEL • T YAMAÏ PARIS • TAKASHI YOKOYAMA • TIKI TIRAWA • ZANDRA RHODES known essay written by Le Corbusier in 1925, the archi- conception tect cites an Hermès bag as & coordination : an example of “the beauty of muriel guyot organisation : the functional.” “Bags were ultradecorat- tel 33 6 07 05 40 05 COMEXPO Paris

Conception : comexpo-studio© - illustration Cédric Martineaud. COMEXPO Paris 2004. Document non contractuel, susceptible de email : [email protected] tel 33 1 49 09 60 36 - fax 33 1 49 09 61 06 24 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Denim Dish Very Vintage The introduction of stonewashed jeans in the Seventies prompted some parents to grouse to their children about paying good money for a pair of pants that already looked worn out. Those are not the sort of people who’d understand Ellen Flanz. The Bozeman, Mont.-based dealer in vintage clothing plans to Calvin’s Choice in Denim begin a Web auction Friday for a pair of Carhartt jeans that she said Brooke Shields was just 15 years old when she cooed dates back to the Thirties. She plans to start the bidding at $7,500. It her famous line, “Nothing comes between me and my will be open on her Web site, VintageCoolThings.com, through Oct. 31. Calvins.” Twenty-four years later, is of- She said the jeans, which feature a buckle back and spots of fering 15-year-olds a new choice in jeans. whitewash, spent much of the past half-century-plus in the barn of The brand plans to roll out a new jeans line, Choice a now-deceased Montana rancher. Calvin Klein, for spring retailing, targeting what a “I got them at auction,” she said. “They almost threw them out. spokeswoman called an “energetic, youthful” consumer. The auctioneers said they were found in the barn on the ranch.” In April, Calvin Klein unveiled the Choice con- The jeans in question were part of a lot of four pieces, includ- cept, first on a line of innerwear that shipped for fall ing a pair of similarly old Lee jeans, a wool jacket and a pair of 2004 retailing. The Choice label also will appear on overalls that Flanz hasn’t yet identified — “they have these gor- a swimwear collection that, like the jeans, will ship geous trains on the buttons, like a locomotive.” Flanz said she for spring. paid “a few hundred dollars” for the lot. It’s part of a broader extension of the Calvin Klein The pockets of the jeans held a 1941 newsletter from a local business with licensee Warnaco Group Inc., which is Elks lodge and empty Lucky Strike cigarette packages. producing all three Choice product lines and also plans After selling the Lee jeans to a European designer for that brand to roll out a CK39 superpremium jeans line for spring. for a four-figure sum, Flanz, 40, said she talked with Carhartt execu- A spokeswoman for Warnaco called the launch tives about selling the jeans to them, though those talks failed to pan “part of the brand’s evolution.” out. It’s fairly common for fashion designers to buy back old pieces “Calvin Klein is developing a whole series fo- Vintage apparel dealer to use for inspiration — in the late Nineties, Levi Strauss & Co. cused on the contemporary buyer,” she said. “This is Ellen Flanz and her made headlines when it paid $46,532 for a pair of 201-style Levi’s just the next category.” Thirties Carhartt jeans. jeans, a predecessor to the 501 style, which dated to the 1880s. The brand will target girls aged 14 to 22. The Flanz — the daughter of William Flanz, who served as chairman of brand’s name, Choice, “speaks to girls who want Gucci in the early 1990s when it was owned by Investcorp — said she choices in their life,” the spokeswoman said. The line moved to Bozeman three years ago, planning to enroll in a Native offers a range of styles, including graf- American studies program at a local university. Instead, she wound up fiti denim washes, boot cuts, starting a vintage clothing company, which she calls Kakkoii Mono, a miniskirts and shorts. Choice differs Japanese phrase meaning “cool things.” Her business doesn’t focus on from CK Calvin Klein by offering denim, but deals mostly in designer apparel and accessories. younger, more fashion-forward sil- Beyond those looking for inspiration for new jeans designs, houettes. The line also includes Flanz said she thought the Carhartts might appeal to a mogul with knit tops, T-shirts, satin bombers a taste for the West. and tanks. “There’s a lot of people out here who have a lot of money and “Calvin Klein is known for fit,” big houses,” she said. “They like to have unusual early Western the spokeswoman said. “We pieces on their walls.” haven’t changed that. We just did- A detail from the Carhartt jeans. — Scott Malone n’t want young girls who wanted stylish jeans to have to wear their mom’s Calvin Klein jeans.” The company is targeting the line at a retail price range of $29 to $59 at specialty and Mavi Steps It Up department stores, suggesting a wholesale price range of Having grown into a $380 million around $15 to $30 based on company worldwide in 13 years, typical markups. Mavi is taking it up a notch and in- The firm declined to pro- troducing a line of premium denim

vide sales projections for the MITRA ROBERT KLEIN PHOTO BY CHOICE CALVIN that’s set to hit stores in November. new line, though company offi- The line will be called Nomad, cials and industry sources pre- which evokes the worldly, can’t- viously estimated the other seem-to-settle-down feel of the Choice collections would likely Turkish brand. represent incremental growth of “This is for our fashion-forward Warnaco’s Calvin Klein busi- client,” Laura Klindt, one of the de- nesses. Last year, Warnaco’s Lee Denim Day Eyes $7.5M signers of the brand, said in a sales of Calvin Klein products phone interview from Istanbul, came to $561.8 million, about 41 Lee Co. is on track to raise about $7.5 million at next where she was visiting a Mavi wash percent of its total revenues. Stretch week’s Lee National Denim Day, said vice president facility. “This line targets people Warnaco’s other businesses in- cuffed of marketing Kathy Collins. who are on the pulse of things. clude an extensive assortment of jeans from “It’s going to be another record-breaker,” she pre- Nomad is for people who want to intimate apparel, licensed Chaps the Choice dicted. get noticed.” products and the Speedo brand. Calvin Klein The event, in which employees at participating The Mavi name does not ap- — Lauren DeCarlo collection. companies pay $5 for the privilege of wearing jeans pear on the Nomad products, to work for a day, raises money for the Susan G. noted Paul Witt, director of market- Komen Breast Cancer Foundation, which funds re- ing and communications at Mavi. search into treatments for and toward an eventual Each style in the new collec- cure for the disease. It was first held in 1996 and has tion is named after a city: The YMI’s Ad Push raised $45 million over its history. boot-cut style is named San Collins said 25,500 companies have signed up to Francisco, the dark wash is The only thing skimpy about the new ad campaign by participate this year, which she said was a 10 percent known as the Bangkok and the moderate junior denim resource YMI Jeanswear is increase over last year. Retailers including Kohl’s Barcelona is a low-waisted, the models’ attire. Corp., J.C. Penney Co. and Goody’s Family Clothing straight-leg style. A first for the two-year-old Los Angeles line, the are among the firms participating in the event. While the regular Mavi line Mavi’s premium $1 million push is intended to build awareness of the The projected $7.5 million collection just beats is designed in New York and denim line, Nomad. YMI brand, said co-owner David Vered. He said the out the record of $7.4 million set in 2000. However, Istanbul, where the company launched in 1991, the line sells to 3,400 department stores nationwide and it’s below the $8 million target the event’s celebrity Nomad line will be designed by a collective of peo- competes in the crowded moderate denim market. spokesman, actor , set at an event pro- ple in Italy, Istanbul, the U.S. and the Netherlands. The campaign was created by D’Angelo Studios in moting the day back in June. The denim is imported from Japan, Italy and Spain, Los Angeles, which also works with contemporary “That was Charlie’s personal goal,” said Collins. “I and the jeans are manufactured in the same facility sportswear brand Hard Tail, and features images of think it may be somewhat in between” the two fig- in Istanbul as the regular Mavi line. young women wearing the jeans. One spot shows a ures, she added. “It makes complete sense that we did premium model on a dry ocean bed with the tail of a reptile at Sheen’s goal may also be the result of a friendly ri- now,” Klindt said. “The American market now appre- her feet. In another spot, she’s on her knees on a valry with his former high school classmate, Rob ciates stepped-up quality. A lot of people have been sandy surface revealing the back of her naked torso. Lowe. The only other male to have been picked for doing it, so it was long overdue.” Print ads will hit teen reads Seventeen, Teen the role, Lowe set the previous $7.4 million record. Nomad will wholesale for $69 to $99, whereas Vogue, YM and Teen People in October and will run A former personal assistant of Sheen’s died of Mavi wholesales in the $35 to $45 range. through December. YMI also placed ads on five bill- breast cancer, which raised his awareness of the While the current Mavi line retails in more than boards in L.A., clustered mostly in the downtown disease. 1,000 locations, Nomad will be sold in selected bou- Fashion District and around the Staples Center “She went from diagnosis to death in three tiques and department stores. neighborhood. Vered said the outdoor campaign will months,” Collins said Sheen told her. “It made him “We’re not trying to make this a $50 million brand,” expand to New York by spring. feel so helpless.” said Witt. “We want to align with the right merchants.” — Nola Sarkisian-Miller — S.M. —L.D. WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2004 25 WWW.WWD.COM Active Lifestyle Freshening Up for Spring

By Melanie Kletter The Marika Everlast is NEW YORK — Smaller and niche companies in activewear — facing a sector dominat- Group is updating its ed by giants such as Nike, Adidas and Puma — are embarking on strategies for spring introducingintroducing aa offerings for to increase their business and market share. brand called spring with more Everlast Worldwide is freshening up its women’s products with bold colors and new IconTMG. color and new silhouettes and plans to initiate an aggressive consumer advertising campaign. Lizgolf silhouettes. by Liz Claiborne is adding more luxury fabrics and increasing its offerings of special sizes. Newcomers, including Zeneration, are looking to break into the market, and The Marika Group is branching out with a high-performance brand called IconTMG. “Specialty stores are looking for new lines and they want to differentiate them- selves from the majors,” said Norm Zwail, president of the Marika Group, who said he sees more room for new brands in activewear. “At the same time, more companies will likely enter the mass channel, which creates other opportunities.” The $16.2 billion women’s activewear market has been particularly busy as brands such as Speedo enter the business, and big-name companies, including Nike and Danskin, expand their distribution by entering the mass channel. On the trend front, performance fabrics are key for active companies and a number of new collections incorporate materials with properties such as wicking, breathabili- ty and moisture-management. There are also a number of new collaborations under way, reflecting a strong trend in the sports arena as companies continue to link up with designers and celebrities. Adidas will roll out its new line designed by Stella McCartney in February, and its col- lection with Missy Elliott will start its second season in the spring. Another new sport collaboration is between tennis brand Ellesse and British fashion label Eley Kishimoto. The company is target- ing stores such as Barney’s Co-op and Fred Segal for distribution, said Stuart Hudson, Ellesse’s U.S. national sales manager. “This is a fun way to generate interest in our brand,” Hudson said, noting the collection will have limited U.S. distribution and will be sold worldwide. The initial products include miniskirts A look from Ellesse now has and cropped jackets in materials such as cotton and nylon with Zeneration, an a collaboration tennis motifs, and will wholesale for about $12 for a bandanna to $120 for a bomber jacket. activewear with British label Everlast’s spring offerings feature bright and bold hues newcomer. Eley Kishimoto. such as green and hot pink, and there are new silhouettes including a miniskirt and lower waistlines. Many products incorporate elements like mesh and stretch fabrics. There are also new hangtags for spring that identify the fabric content of the items. An advertising campaign for women’s will kick off in the spring in magazines such as Shape and Latina, said Seth Horowitz, Everlast’s executive vice president. The company is seeking to elevate its status and build its brand as some of its competitors move into the mass channel. “There are a lot of changes happening in the mar- ket now, and we see opportunities to expand into department stores and upper-end sporting goods chains,” Horowitz said. “We are planning strong growth from our women’s business in 2005.” Women’s now accounts for about 60 per- cent of Everlast’s domestic sales, he said. The Marika Group, best known for its yoga offerings, is starting IconTMG, a line combining technical fabrics with updated styling. “Our current brands are not positioned to capture the customer looking for more detailed garments at a cer- tain price point,” Zwail said. “This is meant for hard-core gym workouts and high-per- formance activities.” He said IconTMG targets a slightly younger and turquoise, as well as white and black. customer than the company’s core labels, Wholesale prices range from about $15 to $60, and the company is targeting bou- A spring look which include Marika, Shiva Shakti and Kiss tiques, spas, health clubs and department stores for initial distribution. Executives from Lizgolf The Sky, brands that are generally cotton- declined to give sales projections since they have just begun showing the line. by Liz based and have a relaxed fit. “We are trying to Among other niche companies, dance firm Capezio is starting the Red Label divi- Claiborne. bring a younger attitude to fitness,” Zwail said. sion, which has premium fabrics and sophisticated design elements, as well as a line He is targeting gyms and specialty chains as of separates in its Dancesport collection. “The Red Label is a fashion-forward line that well as a selection of department stores such as is cutting-edge as far as dance is concerned,” said designer Judy Spodek. “We are tar- Marshall Field’s. geting a higher-end customer with this collection.” The product offerings include cropped pants Red Label has deconstructed seaming and corseting details and wholesales from and sports bras as well as polyester and Lycra about $15 to $25. Spodek also noted that Capezio is expanding its offerings of separates spandex T-shirts and low-rise shorts. Wholesale in the Dancesport category, some of which have performance attributes. prices range from about $17.50 for bras to $22.50 Women’s golf apparel is another arena that has been generating more interest from for drawstring pants, and Zwail anticipates gen- brands and stores, and the offerings have been getting more fashion-forward in recent erating $10 million in sales within three years. seasons. Golf brand Greg Norman, a division of Reebok International, is among those Meanwhile, Zeneration is a new company expanding its selection of women’s offerings, which were introduced two years ago and based in New York catering to Baby Boomer include the company’s Play-Dry proprietary wicking fabric. active women who want comfortable clothing that “Women’s is a fast-growing part of our offerings,” said Suzy Biszantz, Greg Norman can be worn at the gym and elsewhere. president and chief executive officer. Women’s now accounts for 10 percent of the “We did a lot of research and found that many overall Greg Norman business, she said. “Color is key and the offerings are feminine women’s needs weren’t being met,” said company but have performance capabilities.” founder Amy Lee. “This is a collection for women And Lizgolf by Liz Claiborne Golf has introduced more luxury items into its offer- who want apparel for working out and for getting ings for spring. Among the new looks are a suede jacket and products with high-end groceries.” fabrics such as cashmere and silk. Lee, a native of Seoul, said the products were “Our spring 2005 marketing efforts will address Lizgolf as a multigenerational inspired partly by her native country. One of the brand and one that continues to be a multidemographic brand, i.e., a brand for busi- initial collections, called Bamboo, incorporates ness women, professional golfers, trade and leisure golfers,” said Fritz Winans, group bamboo fibers with cotton and stretch properties. president of Liz Claiborne Brands, who noted that the company has added sales reps Another collection, Balance, has layering fabrics and to gain more national distribution in golf specialty shops. “We’re a performance-ori- is available in shades such as tangerine, lemonade ented resource so we want to be where our customer wants to buy the product.” 26 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM The BeatX Bohemian Chic Rules the Season NEW YORK — The showers that drenched the East Coast this week are slightly reminiscent of spring, but the brighter side of the season was clearly evident at two trade shows that wrapped up this week: The Fashion Coterie, a fixture of the fashion business, celebrated its 18th year, while a newbie, The Train New York, marked its debut. — Lauren DeCarlo

SPRING FORWARD The colors, floral prints and Amelia Toro’s floral blouse bright beads throughout and pleated skirt. Fashion Coterie made it easy to forget about the dreary weather. This year, the Fashion Coterie, produced by ENK International, welcomed 12,000 retailers and about 1,000 exhibitors over the three-day period, wrapping up today. “We were very pleased with the traffic turnout despite the rain,” said Elyse Kroll, executive director of ENK. “The crite- ria for exhibitors has been quite similar through the years,” she continued. “We look for quality, design point- of-view and craftsmanship. We try to avoid redundancy.” While the show occupies Piers 90, 92 and 94, the com- petition to get into Coterie is “out of control,” com- mented one spokesman. Labels such as Tori Tori Richard’s Richard brightened the Natalie dress. space with its Honolulu-in- spired floral prints and bright colors such as kiwi, strawberry and hot pink. The line wholesales in the range of $12 to $70 and retails at specialty stores across the country. The Brazilian label, Coven, marked its return to Coterie with knitwear inspired by the rain forest and birds. Peacock blues and greens were among the no- table hues, as well as styles such as balloon skirts and shorts. “We have big THE TRAIN PULLS INTO TOWN expectations for this show,” said the The Train New York brought a global sensibility to the West Side. designer, Liliane Rebehy Queiroz. The show drew about 60 vendors from countries such as France, South Korea, Beyond the floral and bright prints, Taiwan and Colombia, which showcased their wares for approximately 2,800 retail- embroidery, tunics and bohemian-chic ers over a three-day period that wrapped up Wednesday. looks ruled the piers. John Eshaya, a The Train, which took place on 11th Avenue between 27th and 28th Streets, was buyer from the California boutique organized by Fédération Française du Prêt à Porter Féminin and focused on inno- Ron Herman, said he was seeking vative artists from around the world. “There are very good labels out there, but “Malibu hippie-girl” looks. Vanessa something was lacking,” said Jean Pierre Mocho, chairman of FFPAPF. “We tried Witke, designer of the Toronto-based to fill the void by finding innovative, creative collections, and I think we’ve ful- label Ibisco, adorned her sheer tanks filled some part of the market.” The show will run twice a year. with tiny, glittering beads, or “sprin- Retailers seemed to agree with Mocho’s assessment. “These designs are cutting- kles,” as she called them. Her line edge but wearable,” said Kara Dougherty, owner of Pandora’s Box, a women’s bou- wholesales in the range of $69 to $159. tique on Martha’s Vineyard. Dougherty specifically liked the Chicago-based de- “We’re always coming up with new signer Michelle Tan, whose collection featured full skirts made with multiple fab- ways to reinvent timeless pieces,” she rics to create movement. “I like that they’re all handmade,” said Dougherty. said, holding up a cotton and nylon “They’re sort of fantasy-like.” Tan’s collection wholesales between $100 and $400. slim-fitting pencil skirt in classic white. Fashion consultant Stacy Albert Edan Scott Goldenberg, a buyer for Beaded was at The Train shopping for bou- Macy’s, said, “Business is getting tank and tique owners in New Jersey as well as stronger and the contemporary mar- skirt by clients in Malaysia and Taiwan. “This ket is where it’s at in terms of new- Adore. show has a European sensibility,” ness.” He liked looks from Chaudry Albert said. She liked that trends were and Priorities, which in its first day at consistent among designers. “When Coterie filled 400 orders for its bo- trends are easily recognizable, it’s hemian-inspired tie-dye dress. easy for the retailers,” she said. Albert While the hurricanes hindered noted that big trends for spring includ- sales in Florida, one visiting boutique ed “sparkle and shine” as well as full owner from Baton Rouge, La., said skirts, cropped, fitted jackets and lots they have actually helped her busi- of embellishment, like tanks from the ness. “We’ve had record days during Taiwanese label, Adore, that featured the hurricanes,” said Reagan Hoffman, beaded and sequined tops that whole- co-owner of Nanette Kadair Ltd. sale between $70 and $160. “People were off from work so they Marsha Posner, co-owner of JP went shopping and we had so many Associates, a buying office here that evacuees from New Orleans staying represents 30 specialty stores, thought with us, it actually helped business.” the show was particularly complemen- Hoffman and co-owner Sari Turner tary to specialty boutiques. She liked liked looks from Tibi, Kulson and the bouclé suits from French designer Milly. “We’re looking for lots of adorn- Edward Achour, which wholesale for ment and pieces with a Moroccan about $575, and the hand-printed tu- edge,” said Turner. nics from Tao Freedom of the Body. The denim companies appeared to Posner said she’s been surprised at be dressing it up. “It’s not your basic how well her businesses are doing. jeans-and-sneakers anymore,” said “Business has been excellent lately. I Goldenberg. Styles from Rock & have a lot of freedom. We’re constantly A rain forest- Republic mirrored Fifties looks with getting reorders,” she said. “Except for inspired look lots of cropped and cuffed pants. The areas where the hurricanes have hit — by Coven. denim line Evisu spiced things up by like my businesses in Palm Beach,” featuring colorful embroidered jeans. she quickly added. WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2004 27 WWW.WWD.COM TheWWDList

After the critics have spoken, consumers have a chance to weigh in. They cast votes for spring 2005 by visiting the Web pages of designers on Style.com, the site of Vogue and W, which, like WWD, are both part of Advance Publications Inc. For New York Fashion Week Favorites several seasons running the winner has been . While the usual suspects The 20 designers with the most page views on Style.com are all present and accounted for, one newcomer, Buddhist Punk’s Nick Morely, a during the first 12 days their collections were posted. London-based designer and favorite of aging rockers, squeaked in at number 19. MARC JACOBS IMITATION OF CHRIST Page views: 1,393,631 Page views: 657,992 For the third season in a row, Marc Jacobs’ WWD liked a beachy, bobble-trimmed Chloé- collection had the most page views of any New York inspired cotton dress and jersey dresses with designer on Style.com. He featured bow-necked gold and silver paillettes, but said most dresses 1 sweaters in ginghams and dots and full, swishing 11 “looked as if they were fashioned from colored skirts and dresses that WWD pronounced “divine.” mops.”

ZAC POSEN Page views: 931,702 Page views: 637,459 Posen, who moved up from number 11 to second Proenza Schouler went back to its roots for a place in the rankings, favored hourglass shapes, collection that brought to mind heiress Gloria maritime motifs and showstopping gowns for Guinness and her fun-loving friends. WWD said 2 spring. Some looks were a tad kooky. WWD said 12 the fashions should appeal to a “young and hip one riotous dress “looked like a Missoni gone mad.” crowd that wants jaunty, high-glam looks.”

CAROLINA HERRERA DIANE VON FURSTENBERG Page views: 921,258 Page views: 604,242 Herrera, who was inspired by Forties interiors, In an effort to expand her repertoire beyond the used aqua, red and ivory for sweaters, shorts and ubiquitous wrap dress, DVF showed dresses and swimsuits. Silk sundresses and camp shirts were gypsy skirts in linen and voile. She seemed more 3 wrapped at the waist and dresses and gowns were 13 confident than ever in her tailored looks. decorated with embroidery.

OSCAR DE LA RENTA BCBG MAX AZRIA Page views: 914,469 Page views: 601,365 , whose far-flung travels are often WWD said the embroidered peasant dresses, reflected in his clothes, made an ikat with the bold vests and folksy coats are better suited to the colors of India and featherweight caftans Broadway production of “Fiddler on the Roof,” 4 reminiscent of Saint Tropez in the Sixties. De la 14 but liked the fun cotton dresses in bright, cheery Renta also embarked on a nautical theme. colors.

RALPH LAUREN Page views: 851,355 Page views: 596,384 Ralph Lauren’s collection for spring, “De-lovely,” WWD saw hints of Azzedine Alaïa and Helmut was an homage to the refined style of Thirties Lang in Donna Karan’s collection which Hollywood. The glamorous clothes included featured utilitarian netting and laces in a palette 5 embellished sweaters, beaded jeans and period 15 of cool grays and the occasional blast of cobalt accessories, such as diamond brooches. and fuchsia.

MARC BY MARC JACOBS NARCISO RODRIGUEZ Page views: 844,804 Page views: 571,131 WWD found the Marc by Marc Jacobs collection The beaches of Brazil inspired Rodriguez, whose charming and quirky with its long, oversized, looks included a black stretch scuba T-shirt and printed tank tops, vests and blouses piled on one shorts. WWD said the designer’s forays into 6 another. Accessories included diamonds, beaded 16 solid color — he usually works with neutral cloches and a marabou tickler. shades — worked beautifully.

MICHAEL KORS Page views: 752,578 Page views: 552,875 Luxe materials such as cashmere, mink and python Hilfiger carried a sailing motif through to took a nautical turn in short skirts and sweaters. sweaters; billowing, printed cotton skirts; crisp Clothes ran the gamut from playful to ladylike. shirts, and what WWD dubbed “a delightful 7 WWD particularly liked Kors’ brown jersey dress 17 Gidget Goes Sexy in turquoise terry cloth with a jeweled-illusion neckline. trimmed in white.”

VERA WANG BILL BLASS Page views: 742,613 Page views: 537,300 Wang featured cashmere sweaters and kimono- A major improvement, if still a long way to go, style jackets in rich brocades. She used the brocade was WWD’s assessment of Michael Vollbracht’s to create skirts — straight, flared and pencil. Wang spring collection for Bill Blass. Vollbracht 8 also whipped up gauzy blouses and ethereal layered 18 mercifully eliminating the “embarrassing kitsch skirts. factor of his former shows,” said the paper.

ANNA SUI BUDDHIST PUNK Page views: 686,377 Page views: 536,948 Sui’s collection had shades of high-necked London-based Nick Morely held the first Victoriana, the Roosevelt military and runway presentation for his four-year-old label, Sacajawea chic. Flirty dresses layered over white Buddhist Punk. Morely, who has a strong rock 9 petticoats, ruffled jackets, antiqued denim and twill 19 ’n’ roll following, created what he called “his skirts would look right at home on the range. most feminine collection ever.”

CALVIN KLEIN KENNETH COLE Page views: 667,299 Page views: 472,900 Francisco Costa’s collection for Calvin Klein was “If Cole wants to be viewed as an apparel inspired by the work of Constantin Brancusi. WWD designer of weight, he needs to develop a clear said the jersey dresses and gowns were “the vision rooted in something more compelling than 10 essence of elegance.” 20 mere clothes, and translate that into the concrete stuff of fashion,” said WWD.

SOURCE: STYLE.COM. THE WEB SITE HAS A MONTHLY READERSHIP OF MORE THAN 900,000. THE AVERAGE AGE OF THE AUDIENCE IS 32, WITH A MEDIAN INCOME OF $68,000; 83 PERCENT OF READERS ARE FEMALE. 28 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2004 As Debates Begin,Where the Can

By Joanna Ramey President Bush speaks at WASHINGTON — Now it gets interesting. Voice of America Park in West Ever since Vice President Richard Nixon’s sweaty en- Chester, Ohio, on Monday. counter against the smooth-talking Sen. John F. Kennedy in the first televised presidential debates in 1960, the face-offs have proven crucial to who gets elected. Voters will get their first chance tonight to see President Bush square off with Democratic rival Massachusetts Sen. John Kerry in the first of three tele- vised debates scheduled this heated election year, which is entering its final stretch with Bush holding a small lead in most polls. Seeing the candidates tangle over issues in the 90- minute debates is key to convincing the all-important un- decideds and the so-called “persuadable” voters who are tentative about their candidate choice, said Larry Sabato, director of the University of Virginia Center for Politics. However, it’s impossible to forecast whether Kerry, who on his feet is “strong on substance,” or Bush, who “is much stronger in making a personal connection,” has an edge, Sabato said. The narrow slice of voters who say they are undecided — accounting for less than 10 percent of the electorate in a dozen closely contested states, including the first debate’s location, Florida — is expected to decide the presidential race. “One thing we have to realize is these so-called swing voters haven’t yet really paid attention to the election,” said Paul Herrnson, director of the Center for American Politics and Citizenship at the University of Maryland. “The issues are important. But just as important is how the candidates handle themselves, how they answer questions, and imagery and style.” The first televised debate, at the University of Miami in Coral Gables, will focus on foreign policy, including the war in Iraq and the fight against terrorism. The can- didates will be seated, according to terms negotiated by the candidates’ camps. The next debate on Oct. 8 in St. Louis will be open to any topic and cast in a more informal town-hall format, where candidates may stand and walk about while an- swering questions. The last debate on Oct. 13 in Tempe, Ariz., returns to the seated format and will focus on the economy and domestic policy. A vice presidential de- bate between incumbent Dick Cheney and North Carolina Sen. John Edwards is set for Tuesday at Case Western Reserve University in Cleveland. The differences between Bush and Kerry are quite stark on everything from the extent of hostilities in Iraq to The senator pokes at the administration’s trade and In a second term, Bush said his economic policies the health of the economy. For officials in the greater fash- tax policies as favoring foreign imports and outsourcing would be focused on: ion industry who’ve made their presidential preferences of U.S. jobs, which Kerry blames on the loss of some 2.5 ● Continuing with new trade-liberalizing pacts, in- public, opinions on either side are also quite definite. million U.S. manufacturing jobs, including some 350,000 cluding efforts to lower nontariff trade barriers. For example, Peter Bragdon, vice president and gener- in apparel and textile production, since Bush took office. ● Lobbying Congress to make permanent almost $2 al counsel of Columbia Sportswear, Portland, Ore., said In addition, Kerry has said the President’s unilateral trillion in tax cuts he furthered in his first term, which earlier this month that “if we ran our com- decision to go to war in Iraq, which the 9/11 range from accelerated depreciation of equipment to pany the way George Bush ran this country, Commission said had no ties to the 2001 lower rates on investment income. we’d be out of a job. terrorist attacks on the U.S., has wasted ● Eliminating the estate tax by 2010, which has been “If you want better and more affordable $200 billion in American taxpayer money gradually lowered since 2001. Election ● health care, more jobs, a cleaner environ- with no plan to bring peace there. As a re- Reforming the federal tax code. ment, energy independence and restoring sult, Kerry maintains the chaos in Iraq has On the trade front, Kerry would review all existing our respect in the world, then Kerry and 2004 unnecessarily created a new wave of ter- trade pacts to ensure fairness. He would lobby Congress Edwards are your choice,” Bragdon said, rorists hating the U.S., while draining mili- to repeal tax-deferral breaks for U.S. companies pro- according to his prepared comments is- tary and financial resources away from the ducing abroad for sale to the U.S. market, a move de- sued when 31 outdoor apparel and equipment company war on terror in Afghanistan and elsewhere. signed to discourage outsourcing. Kerry, who considers executives endorsed the Democratic ticket. If elected, Kerry’s economic plan would include: himself an internationalist and not an economic isola- By contrast, Hal Upbin, chairman and chief executive ● Targeting double-digit annual increases in health tionist as Bush contends, would also reward companies officer of global apparel maker Kellwood Co., who is a care costs through a series of tax breaks. operating in the U.S. by lowering their tax rate to 33.25 Bush backer, said, “The economy is sailing along, as ● The government underwriting catastrophic health percent from 35 percent. much as a president can influence it,” and for which he care expenses to lower premiums. Kerry’s outsourcing plan, which could hit apparel credits the Bush tax cuts. “By and large he has set the en- ● Allowing individuals to buy into affordable federal producers abroad, has its critics who argue it would vironment for the economy to continue growing, albeit at employee health insurance. cause U.S. corporations to change their relationship a slower pace.” ● Negotiating lower drug prices with pharmaceuti- with foreign affiliates to keep their tax status, among Although Upbin said his support of Bush’s policies in cal companies. other avoidance mechanisms. Iraq have dimmed since the increased hostilities there, Other Kerry plans include repealing Bush’s tax cuts As for the proposal’s effects on outsourcing, “If you “at this point I do think he is the better person to com- for households making more than $200,000. For the mid- could make it work, would it really make a difference?” plete the task at hand….I don’t have enough confidence dle class, Kerry would continue the President’s middle- Nigel Gault, an economist with Global Insight, asked rhetor- [Kerry] would do the right thing or do it any better.” class tax cuts, set to expire by 2010. ically. “It probably would not make a huge difference.” Bush and Kerry present competing philosophies For his part, Bush’s outlook on the economy is one of Gary Hufbauer, a senior fellow with the Institute of about how best to spur economic growth. recovery, an upbeat view based in part on job creation International Economics, agrees with the potential tax- “The theme that runs through President Bush’s pro- starting to pick up since August, productivity gains and shifting scenario, but he said Kerry’s intentions to cor- posals is all about letting markets work, getting govern- GDP growth since the spring 2001 recession. Bush argues rect disadvantages for U.S. companies against American ment out of the way and letting consumers and business his tax cuts, with low interest rates and inflation, pulled companies operating abroad aren’t misplaced. make the important choices,” said Retail Forward econ- the economy out of its doldrums, with the recession lasting However, “tax differentials are not the main reason omist Frank Badillo, in an analysis of the candidates’ just the third quarter of 2001, when GDP fell 1.4 percent. for offshore outsourcing, nor are they the main reason plans. Kerry “on the other hand, offers the prospect of a In addition, Bush argues his expansive policies to ne- for the trade deficit,” Hufbauer concluded in an analy- much more activist government that will give con- gotiate free-trade pacts and otherwise lower global trade sis of the Kerry plan. He said a better attack plan would sumers and businesses incentives to make certain deci- barriers encourage U.S. export opportunities, furthering involve changing World Trade Organization rules per- sions, such as adding jobs or going to school.” bolstering economic growth. While acknowledging some mitting countries to levy VAT and similar taxes on inter- Kerry argues the economy is lukewarm, given its slow manufacturing job declines can be tied to low-cost im- national commerce. creation of jobs to keep pace with new workers entering port competition, Bush generally regards this transition On Iraq, Bush considers his policies to be working to- the market. He cites declines in consumer discretionary as being part of a natural economic shift toward the cre- ward democracy there, despite escalations in violence income and slowing of retail sales as among the lacklus- ation of higher-paid jobs, in areas such as technology. and a dismal CIA assessment of conditions. The ter economic barometers that demonstrate the punch of “Jobs change in a changing world,” Bush said last President argues that the toppling of Iraq dictator Bush’s almost $2 trillion in tax cuts were short-lived. week on the stump. Saddam Hussein has made the world safer and opened WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2004 29 WWW.WWD.COM ndidates Stand on the Key Issues a key front to fighting terror in the Middle East. For employers, under the Kerry plan spending On health care, Bush would ask Congress to cre- would decrease $52.1 billion over 10 years and with ate tax-free health care savings accounts. Under Bush would decline $4.7 billion, according to the plan, consumers would have lower health care Lewin, which makes no judgment as to whose pro- premiums because of lower deductibles. The ac- posal is better. On the Record counts would be used to pick up health expenses Just as in health care, Bush’s tax plans are fo- not covered by insurance, which Bush argues cused on allowing taxpayers to keep more of their HEALTH CARE would stimulate wiser health care decisions and re- money. He argues this creates strong incentives for Bush: Create tax-free medical savings accounts to cover duce unneeded treatments. businesses and individuals to buy and invest. Retail what insurance doesn’t, while increasing deductible after The financial drag on business and the economy Forward’s Badillo said this trickle-down philosophy which insurance coverage begins. Intended to lower health as a whole by escalating health care costs and the was apparent in “the rebound at upscale retailers costs and increase the number of insured by lowering premi- uninsured is a key issue cited by executives affect- during the past two years” prompted by the reduction um costs. In first term, won Congressional passage of contro- ing bottom lines. Some 44 million Americans are under Bush in the top tax rate to 35 percent from 39.6 versial prescription drug benefit for low-income elderly, uninsured and are expected this year to generate percent for some 2.5 million households. These which critics argue is insufficient. an estimated $41 billion in uncompensated treat- households accounted for more than half the benefits Kerry: Increase health care tax credits for small businesses ment — 85 percent paid by federal, state and local of Bush’s tax cuts. by up to 50 percent. Chance for low-income individuals to buy governments — and accounting for about one-third However, Bush’s outlook, as well as Kerry’s tax into the affordable health plans offered to Congressional law- of the total $125 billion in total U.S. health care and governing plans, don’t adequately attack the makers. Government pays up to 75 percent for catastrophic costs, according to the Kaiser Family Foundation. ballooning federal deficit, now at $422 billion, ac- health care costs, saving up to $1,000 per worker premium. Cut According to The Lewin Group, a nonpartisan cording to several nonpartisan economists. They annual nonmedical health care costs for mostly paperwork by health care consulting firm, the Kerry plan would see the widening deficit as a millstone around the up to $350 billion. Require government to negotiate lower pre- reduce the number of uninsured by 51 percent to economy, which if not addressed will trigger high scription drug prices. 24.3 million, while increasing the federal govern- interest rates to keep pace with paying on what’s ment’s costs by $1.25 trillion over 10 years. The essentially a loan issued the government. ECONOMY/TAXES Democrat contends that the increased federal share Both Kerry and Bush said their plans would Kerry: Repeal Bush tax breaks for families making more would be largely paid for by rolling back Bush’s tax halve the deficit in five years — Kerry by urging than $200,000, including for dividends and capital gains, return- cuts for the wealthy and by efficiencies gained by Congress to follow pay-as-you-go budget rules used ing top tax rate to 39.6 percent from 35 percent and affecting trimming health care paperwork and lower drug in the Nineties to eliminate the deficit and Bush by about 2 percent of the population, or 2.5 million households. prices negotiated with pharmaceutical companies. curbing government discretionary spending. Campaign estimates $860 billion over 10 years would be saved Bush’s health plan would cover 8.2 million new Whether under Kerry’s or Bush’s plan, projected and used to pay for his health care and education plan. Low- to people, a 17 percent reduction of the uninsured, federal deficits “will be approximately equal,” conclud- middle-class taxpayers would keep Bush tax cuts, which for a and increase federal costs by $227.5 billion, the ed Mark Zandi, chief economist with economy.com, family of four with $40,000 in income amount to about $2,000 a Lewin group calculates. States would pay less in an analysis of the candidates’ tax proposals. year. Pay employer share of payroll taxes in 2005 and 2006 for health care under either plan, a reduction of $20 Global Insight’s Gault added, “Neither one of any net new jobs created by small businesses and companies af- billion under Bush and $343.5 billion under Kerry. them is facing a widening budget gap.” fected by outsourcing. Increase small business loan programs. Eliminate rules for companies to defer paying taxes on for- Sen. John Kerry acknowledges the eign subsidiaries until future profits are returned to the U.S., crowd at a campaign rally at the which is intended to encourage U.S. investment and discour- age outsourcing. There would be a one-time tax holiday for University of Pennsylvania Friday. repatriation of past offshore profits. Use tax-deferral savings to reduce U.S. corporate income taxes to 33.25 percent from 35 percent. Kerry claims his overall tax plan would create 10 mil- lion jobs in his first term. Create 3 million jobs in 500 days by increasing spending on highways, school construction, envi- ronmental clean up and other projects. Bush: Make permanent almost $2 trillion in tax cuts passed by Congress during his administration, now being phased in and set to expire by 2010. He credits his tax cuts with pulling the economy out of recession and its posts-9/11 slump. He would reduce business regulations to lower costs and increase U.S. energy production. He also would push Congress to set limits on class-action lawsuits and medical malpractice awards and would create $3,000 reemployment accounts to pay unemployed worker job searches. JOBS Bush: Would review increasing the minimum wage, but in the past he has opposed increasing it as injurious to economic growth. The President supports legal status for temporary im- migrant workers. In his first term, he changed rules on who qualifies for overtime pay and signed legislation repealing Clinton administration ergonomic workplace safety rules. Kerry: Would increase the minimum wage to $7 from $5.15 by 2007; repeal Bush changes to overtime pay rules, and insti- tute employer-mandated ergonomic injury safeguards, re- pealed under the Bush administration. He also would in- crease the employee child care tax credit to $5,000 from $3,000; expand after school programs, and support legislation to grant legal status to temporary immigrant workers. TRADE Kerry: Would renegotiate the Central American Free Trade Agreement to include stronger labor and environmental stan- dards, which would be required in all future trade pacts, and review existing trade agreements for 120 days to weigh fair- ness. He also would make “more forceful efforts” to bring the undervalued Chinese currency in line and launch an inquiry into China’s worker rights abuses; increase funding for trade agreement enforcement, and use unfair trade practice laws to counter violations. The candidate would strengthen must-buy- American-made rules for defense and homeland security sup- plies, including uniforms, and would press trading partners to lower paperwork and other barriers to U.S. export sales. Bush: Would continue to negotiate free-trade agreements and press for elimination of industrial tariffs among World Trade Organization members, and keep negotiating with the Chinese about bringing their overvalued currency and intel- lectual property violations in line. He rejects pressuring China with the threat of trade sanctions to conform and has supported government reviewing requests for new Chinese apparel and textile quotas based on threat of U.S. market dis- ruption. The administration has already approved three re- quests for new Chinese safeguard quotas. BUSH PHOTO HERBERT AP PHOTO/GERALD STEPHEN JAFFE/AFP/GETTY IMAGES; KERRY BY BY 30 WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2004

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Fax Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator. 212.921-8076 or E-mail [email protected] Fax resume: Mr. Adams 212-473-4281 Apparel Distribution Center DESIGNER HEAD WESTERN SOUTH CAROLINA Pattern Maker/Couture •Centrally Located • 73,000 sq. ft. VIVENNE TAM Experienced, well organized, team player. •Convenient Access to Interstates, Seeks exp’dDesigner, must be able to man- Draping & creating from sketch a must. Regional Airports, and Free Zone age team & budgets, strong organizational Full and part time positions available. •Experienced Work Force skills, detail oriented, great fashion sense, Fax resume: 212-481-1968 Readily Available in the Area. technical knowledge from sampling thru Call Blake toll-free @ 1-877-638-5841 Knitwear Sweater Co. prod., good communications w/ Orient A+. For Space in Garment Center has the following open Fax c/letter w/resume to (212) 398-9695 Helmsley-Spear, Inc. positions: Patternmaker/Production 212-880-0414 Designer (Manh): Create textile dsgns Branded sportswear & private label co. 1)Fit tech with 3+yrs exp & flat sketches for women’s intimate missy/women’s/petites. Maintain con- apparel using computer graphic dsgn sistent fit, specs, grading. Knowledge in LOWER YOUR RENT knits/wovens, fabric testing/shrinkage. Keep your image. Classier space for tools. Sketch rough & detailed draw- 2)Designer w/ junior back- ings & write specs in English & Brooklyn location. Fax resume w/ salary less. 1,500-10,000 sq ft. Allan Gallaway requirements: 718-499-4895 Attn: Tony. Bernstein R.E. 212-594-1414 Ext 251 ground with overseas Sinhalese. Create packaging dsgn & prep enhancements as needed. BA in product and domestic, Studio Art or Fashion Dsgn req. Must Showrooms & Lofts knowledge is a plus. BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS have at least 1 yr production exp w/in Great ’New’ Office Space Avail DENIM DESIGNER factory overseas. Must be fluent in Production ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Sinhalese. Fax resume to 212-213-2866, 3)Receptionist - to answer Attn: Baby Pardo. phones, maintain show Koos Manufacturing, manufacturer of some of Assistant SPACE FOR SUBLET room, send fed-ex 2-3 yrs exp liaison b/t NY office & do- Private Office & Cubicles Available mestic, overseas mfgs. MS Word, Ex- Prestigious Building 111 W. 40th St. packages, etc. the top premium denim brands, is looking to Designers Wanted cel, ADS, organized, detail oriented. Flexible Term, Call Heather (212) 382-6495 expand our design team. We are currently Fast paced Private Label Co. (Missy Fax res & sal reqs. 212 826-7068 Great environment. Please Sportswear, Knits & Wovens) is looking to fill the following positions. Pls note e-mail resume to looking for talented seasoned denim designers all candidates must be team players w/ [email protected] or to fill both head designer & assistant designer excellent communications skills, detail Production Assistant fax to 212 398 -5466 oriented and computer literate. Leading children’s wear importer seeks positions. Always dreamed of having access to DESIGNER an experienced production assistant. 3-5 yrs. Private Label exp. Must be Responsibilities include daily e-mail 1333 Broadway one of the world’s finest denim manufacturing able to work independently, possess communication with oversea factories Private furnished office available great follow through skills and be able and all phases of approval process. Ideal in active office. 8 x 10 office. facilities as your playground? We are eager to to interact with customers. The ideal candidates must have 2 to 3 years exp; Call 646-674-1044 Magaschoni candidate will have experience in both knowledge and understanding of gar- add talent to our team. L.A. based company. wovens and knits, with a focus on ment construction, knit and woven fab- Apparel Group print/embroidery development. rics; must be detail oriented with good Broadway Location Seventh Avenue Apparel Co communication skill, computer skill SHORT TERM (6 months) ASSOCIATE DESIGNER seeks experienced personnel Please fax resume: 323-567-8340 1-2 yrs. Private Label exp. Must be a and able to work under pressure. Also Office/Mini-Showroom - furnished, must be a team player. racks & grids. $600. 212-997-4300. hard working self-starter, able to assist to join our growing co. Attn: HR Dept or E-mail: [email protected] in all aspects of design development. Please fax resume & salary requirement ATTN: SM (212) 302-1856 to: 212-564-5201 Attn. CB Woven Designer Must have at least 5 yrs ex- Admin Since 1967 CAREERS IN APPAREL perience. Sketching ability a W-I-N-S-T-O-N In Production - Techn. Design + Design See Listings @ www.ApparelStaffing.com Dsgnr (Head)Boys Urbanwear/$80-100k+ Production Coordinator must. Tech knowl helpful. For leading branded Boy’s Urban Major private label company seeks a APPAREL STAFFING prod coord with import and domestic DESIGN*SALES*MERCH license,at mjr Children’s wear Co. Req: strong denim & woven bottom backgd experience. Must be organized/detail ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION oriented and able to follow production Asst. Woven Designer (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 Costing Coordinator w/5++ yrs related expr (Urban; men’s Sketching ability a must. Apparel company seeking experienced, or boys a must). Strong MAC skills. from cutting room thru shipping. energetic, detail oriented costing coor- E-mail resume: [email protected] Knowledge of logistics, customs clear- Must be computer literate. dinator. Must be computer literate and (Fax) 212-725-7116 (Tel) 212-481-1941 ance and computer literate a must. familiar with input of costing details Sourcing experience a plus. Full bene- Strategic Partnership/Indp’t Sales Rep Pls fax resumes in confidence such as CMT, YIELD, EST TRIM COST, fits, 401K. Pls fax resume: 212-244-4061. Canadian based vertical mfg. co. etc. for all apparel categories. Basic Specialized in private label of knit to 509-757-7814, or email: knowledge of garment construction EDI Administrator garments. Looking to enter in strategic [email protected] details needed. Hi-vol women’s sptswr mfr needs expe- partnership with company or ISR. Please fax resume to 212-382-2421 rienced, hi-energy pro to run busy data Must have relationship with large Attn: Elaine dept. Must know EDI. ASN, UPC 128 catalog/specialty retailers and dept Bar code Labels AS400. Excellent Production Coordinator ARTIST NEEDED Sweater company seeks organized stores. Pls. fax your interest to COUTURE SEWING Oppty. Fax resume: (212)764-5981 (905)474-3442 or [email protected] Versatile Graphic Designer needed to detail oriented individual to handle work variety of exciting projects: ad- Experienced couture sewer who development/production. Must have vertising, marketing / promotions, has worked with high quality outstanding communication & computer website creation. Production packages fabrics. Emphasis on eveningwear. skills. Please fax resume to: Please call: (212) 869-2296 Fabric Coordinator experience with prints, repeats, color We are a womens private label apparel (212) 302-6926 DESIGNER separations, embroidery etc. company seeking an experienced and Luxury Outerwear Co. with est’d. Photoshop & Illustrator skills a must. energetic individual to join our grow- Must be fast, & detail oriented. Customer Service/Sales Assistant ing fabric department. Min. 3 - 5 years private label and celebrity licensed Fax: 212-695-0203 Rapidly growing fast paced men’s appa- fabric sourcing experience. Some travel brands is seeking a highly talented email: [email protected] rel importer seeks sales asst for NY required. Merchandising background Production Coordinator showroom. Must be energetic, highly is a plus. Good computer skills required. Womens Apparel company seeking designer to join our design team. motivated with computer skills. Able to PATTERN/SAMPLES Please fax your resume experienced, detail oriented person to Experience with ladies outerwear Bookkeeper A/R attend national shows. Become part of to 212-382-2421 Attn: Anne assist with all aspects of production Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Credit & Collections Computer Care our talented team! Great opportunity! follow up. Prod. Development back- work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 and fur required. Must be creative, software experience a plus fast paced Fax resume: 516-621-2251 attn: Mel ground helpful. Must have good self motivated and a team player. environment. Company benefits. communication and computer skills. Fax resume 212-869-1938 Attn: Estelle Design FASHION OPPORTUNITIES Please fax resume to 212-382-2421 Excellent opportunity. Please Fax Artists - Designers - Merchandisers - Attn: Susan Patterns / Samples all resumes to: 212-760-1223 ASSOCIATE DESIGNER Production - Sales - Technical - Etc. Any Style, Perfect Fit REVUE, a better sptswr co, seeks moti- Call Barbara Murphy (212) 643-8090 (agcy) BOOKKEEPER vated, creative team player w/ability to Good Quality - Fast Service Woman’s Outwear Co. seeks bookkeeper to Call (212) 398-7700 or (917) 520-5377 spec & flat sketch, (knits and wovens), assist controller. Knowledge of A/P, A/R, fabric/trim R&D. Min 5 yrs experience Posting to G/L. Preparing trial balances, req’d. Pls fax resume w/salary history: FIT TECHNICIAN FREELANCE bank rec. computer knowledge a must, 212-398-6693 attn: Design Director Updated Sportswear Company seeks Fit Purchasing Agent PATTERNS, SAMPLES, AS/400 a plus. Fax resume to: Technician. Should be able to work with FASHION JEWELRY CO. PATTERNMAKER 212-594-3999 designer on all fittings and communi- Well est’d. co. seeks individual with 3-5 PRODUCTIONS Designer cate all fit comments and corrections years experience to place orders with All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Thorough experience needed BUYER to the overseas factories. Must be able overseas vendors. Production experience Call Sherry 212-719-0622. to fix Imported Fit Sample Assistant Designer to do all technical sketching in your a must. Fax resumes to: 212-564-8279 Patterns for Hi-Volume Pri- ASSISTANT BUYER Major Intimate Apparel Co. seeking an communications overseas. Any type of Tafford Mfg, a nat’l mail order retailer entry level Assistant Designer for the patternmaking skills you have would vate Label Casual Sportswear. of medical uniforms, accessories & Girl’s Underwear division. be a plus. Flat sketching-presentation PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Must be present @ fittings. shoes, has f/t position for exp’d Asst Ideal candidate should be very organized, boards, etc. a must. Fax Resume to Justin @ Buyer in Philadelphia Suburbs. Candi- detail oriented & a team player. You will Please fax resume to: (212) 768-8811 PRODUCTIONS date to assist buyer in purch fabrics & communicate with overseas office & facto- Receptionist/ Full servcie shop to the trade. Fine 212-944-2452. working with vendors. Requirements: ries, process artwork, prepare sampling / fast work. 212-869-2699. Word & Excel; excell comm, analyze production packages, and assist Designer Merchandise Allocator/to 32k+ Sales Assistant numbers, college deg, buying office in all phases of development, which For mjr children’s wear co. Upload EDI, Large packaging co. seeking a motivated, exp a +. Competitive salary & excell includes specs & garment details. Great expr allocate merch. to stores, prepare organized individual. Excellent entry Administrative Assistant benefits! E-Mail resume and salary to company & full benefits! Must be computer shipping orders, coord. w/ warehouse, level opportunity in fast paced environ- PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD Knowledge of chinese language. Great [email protected], Fax 215-283- literate. No experience necessary.Please work w/inventory reports etc. ment with tremendous growth potential. High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- opportunity. Fax Resume to: 212-382- 2754, mail: HR Tafford Mfg, 1370 fax resume to: S. Couper at 212-842-4020. E-mail resumes: [email protected] Must be computer literate. Please fax sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 3623 Welsh Rd; N. Wales, PA 19454. E.O.E. (Fax) 212-725-7116 (Tel) 212-481-1941 resume to: 212-279-6195, Attn: Ian/Gigi WWD, THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2004 31

Retail Sales Analyst SALESPERSON WARNACO SWIMWEAR, major Extremely reputable Madison Avenue manufacturer of such noted brands as boutique looking for experienced sales- Anne Cole, Nautica Swimwear, CK person. Must have experience within Swimwear amongst others has better menswear and/or womenswear immediate opening for Retail Sales industry. Looking for organized indi- Analyst. This individual will be respon- vidual to join hardworking team. sible for compilation and analysis of Email resumes to: [email protected] selling data from major retailers. Must be able to communicate with buyers to obtain selling information at earliest Store Manager date. Responsible for hiring models for Joseph, (London) High-end retail Clothing market week. Ideal candidate must be Co. seeks an accomplished individual PC literate and proficient in MS Word with a minimum of 5 years solid man- and Excel. Ability to create and link agerial experience and a successful sales Excel worksheets with formulas, record. Must be energetic, with good ability to navigate Internet, strong SALES MANAGER sense of fashion, style, and store mer- organizational and retail math skills. chandising ability. Excellent organiza- Must be able to multi-task and work in tional, communication, and interpersonal fast-paced environment. This position skills are required. Fax/E-mail resumes: is located in New York. Dynamite sales manager position open for start up 212-274-1142 / [email protected] For consideration please fax or email resume to: FAX: (323) 837-6401; or contemporary denim and related separate division. email: [email protected] W. Village Shop Equal Opportunity Employer Must be very experienced in start up sales. Equity position Busy W. Village, need management / sales pros. Min 1 yr exp in shoes / ac- SALES ASSISTANT might be available for the right dynamic person. cessories. Fax Alida 212-675-6360. Ladies apparel co. seeks assistant for Sales Executive. Must have knowledge All resumes and contacts will remain strictly confidential. of inventory control, ordering trim, monitor testing, work w/ assistant buyer. Must be organized, detail oriented with excellent follow up skills. Individ- Fax all resumes to (323) 887-8457 ual must be able to multi task. Please fax resume to: 212-997-5651 Sourcing/Prod’n Coord $43K Sales Trainee Wtd. Knits & Sweaters. Cost sheets Line updates. High energy apparel co. seeks bright, [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 energetic person w/ great communica- tion skills and an interest in sales. Will maintain showroom, good organizational SPEC TECHNICIAN and multi-tasking skills a must. Strong IMMEDIATE OPENING! Dynamic Junior denim company client follow-up and strong computer Ladies wear mfr. seeks exp’d Spec Tech. has the following positions open- skills a must. Must have knowledge of with computer & communication skills. Excel and digital imaging software. LEATHER/SUEDE SALES Extremely organized & detail oriented. ing in our New York office: Please fax resume to: Established leather & suede collection Please fax resume, Attention Summer Attention Tamar @ (212) 768-2835 looking for nationwide sales rep’s who (212) 302-3872 SALES EXECUTIVE travel & have extensive customer base with better to designer specialty stores. Junior Denim, min 3-5 yrs. denim Sportswear Sales Rep Proven product. Great Opportunity! SPEC TECH - P/T experience. Established ladies’ sportswear company Please fax resume to: (212) 244-9039 Needed for missy knit and woven SALES ASSISTANT looking to expand client base and cre- or Email: [email protected] sportswear company. First spec to fit- ate brand awareness. Seeks experi- ting and grading; cut & sew and full Assist Sales Manager enced and dynamic sales representa- fashion knits. E-mail resume & salary GIRLS 7-16 SALES EXECUTIVE tive with strong connection to major requirements to [email protected] Denim, Minimum 3-5 yrs. department stores and retail chains. Contacts with Kohl’s a plus. Please NEW CONCEPT/PATENT TECH DESIGNER experience girls sales. e-mail resume w/ salary requirements to Interactive children’s play & learn ORDER FULFILLMENT [email protected] for a Kellwood Div clothing line w/ many add-on related An intelligent source for warehouse and distribution Kellwood Div. seeks ind w/ stong Assist EDI Coordinator products for after market sale. Rep specing ability for dresses and suits. w/solid connections. P/F: 212-678-0999 services. Facing the challenges of the information age we Candidate must have min 3 years expe- Please fax resume to Human Re- bring to light the areas where your business excels and where rience. Strong knowledge of garment sources @212-719-1521 construction, experience in production you need better solutions to deliver product to customers. fitting and experience to create Tech Packs for complete garments mfr’d in Sales Executive Asia is required. Must have strong com- Prestigious fast growing Children’s munications skills and be computer lit- showroom is seeking an enthusiastic and erate w/ knowledge in Web PDB and experienced Sales Executive with previous Excel. customer base with department stores and New Boutique Opening Fax resume and salary to 212-719-3121 boutiques. Candidate must have strong October 21st EOE organizational and follow-up skills. Caesars Palace, Las Vegas Computer literate a must. Great Benefits Tech Designer-Sweaters package. Please e-mail at: Seeking a strong sales staff [email protected]. Import Sweater Co seeks exp’d indiv. Asst Managers: 2 yrs min. Call 620-223-2008 for fits, grading & extensive overseas exp. in retail management comm. Must have 3-5 yrs import sweater www.CIDISTRIBUTION.com exp. Brooklyn location. Fax 212.764.1825 Sales Associates: Retail sales background a must. NY, Palm Beach Technical Designer Designer Perry Ellis Int’l seeking Tech Designer Full and P/T availabilities. for Men’s jackets + dress pants. 5+ yrs Please fax resume to Just returned from Paris filled with exp, webPDM, Illustrator. E-mail (310)281-0005 Attn:Elizabeth ideas to add to your line. Call Bonnie resumes to [email protected] SALES MANAGER 212-886-4536 or fax (212) 536-5870. EOE/M/F/V/D. Seeking a seasoned professional w/ strong customer base and established Traffic Manager to $53K relationships with Major Dept Stores Fluent in Spanish. Central/ South America exp and Specialty Chains. Individual will Allen *Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 work closely with Exec Mgmt and will [email protected] be responsible for generating new busi- ness accounts. Sales exp in Sportswear apparel required. Must be aggressive, enthusiastic and detail oriented. Highly competitive salary & incentives. Fax: 310-886-3070 or E-mail: [email protected]

SALES PERSON Tracy Evans mfr of moderate price sptswr. seeks person w / exp in jr. & missy sptswr. Position includes Med & 401K. Fax resume to: Dave 212-869-5237

SALESPERSON Well established importer of fashion Men’s Sales Exec watches seeks Salesperson with strong Pro wanted w/ 5 yrs exp in connections to chain, dept. stores. men’s outerwear. Must have Please call: (213) 448-4703 or Email: dept & chain store contacts, [email protected] be aggressive and be a team player. Sales Reps Sales Professional NY based social occasion/eveningwear Nationally branded Mens, company looking to expand sales force Ladies, Kids Outerwear and client base, seeks experienced and company seeking reps for dynamic Sales Professional with strong NGC SQL Series Software www.ngcsoftware.com connection to major Dept. stores. built on Microsoft Technology our very successful outerwear All responses held confidential. product line. Many territories Please fax responses to: (646) 619-4201 open. 10 yrs exp. a must. Red Horse ERP Business Mgmt. Only est. pro’s need apply. e-SPS Sourcing/Production Mgmt. Sales Professional e-PDM Product Data Mgmt. Fax or email resumes to: Weare seeking a highly motivated indiv. 212-719-2051 or w/ contacts in the Dept & Specialty [email protected] stores for a new junior top license of a national brand. Salary + commission. E-mail resume to: [email protected]

Part Time Sales Person SALES PRO Needed For Newly Launched Well known mfr seeks a take charge Men’s Accessory Line person for moderate brand name suits. EXCELLENT OPPORTUNITY Must have extensive exp. Substantial New York (212)369-3778 [email protected] To grow with a New Company, salary plus incentives. Existing accts Experience Necessary/Contacts a Plus. avail. Med & 401K incld. Fax resume to: Miami (305)556-9122 Email: [email protected] Dave: 212-869-5237 The clock says 9pm. Jade’s no-iron shirt says 9am. TERS. ® of Cotton Incorporated. Service Registered Mark/Trademark © Incorporated, Cotton 2004. AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPOR PRODUCERS AMERICA’S COTTON

Today’s no-iron cotton isn’t afraid of a long day. Buy it for what it does. Buy it for what it doesn’t do. Cotton. The fabric of our lives.® www.cottoninc.com