N.Y. FashionThe We Inside: Pg. 27 CHINA HIT LIST/3 DEBATING THE ISSUES/28-29 WWD Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • September 30, 2004 • $2.00 List ekFavo rite WWDTHURSDAY s Sportswear Polly Wants A Prada MILAN — Miuccia Prada, who launched the trend for eccentric femininity that has ruled the runways for several seasons now, went in a new direction this time. Her terrific spring collection for Prada, in fact, was full of tailored, even sporty looks, along with others that were more embellished, featuring, for example, embroidery and appliqué. Here, her playful shift with an appliquéd parrot, part of a bird motif in the line. For more on the shows, see pages 8 to 11. Seeking Russian Gold: Despite Turmoil, Brands RushtoBooming Market By WWD Staff PARIS — When “Jenny From the Block” — better known as Jennifer Lopez — decides to open her first store in the world in Moscow, you know something is going on in the neighborhood. Indeed, fashion and retail firms are heading to Russia in droves, attracted by a vibrant economy, a free-spending elite and what’s perceived as pent-up demand for style and status. While there is nervousness about the market and its stability — fueled by the Beslan terrorist attacks earlier this month, the murder of the American editor of Russian Forbes See Brands, Page12 PHOTO BY MAURICIO MIRANDA MAURICIO PHOTO BY WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION In Milan, Prada went tailored, Burberry Prorsum got citified, Karl Lagerfeld ™ 8 showed variety at Fendi and Angela Missoni hit the right notes. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based GENERAL on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated Fashion and retail firms are heading to Russia in droves, attracted by a 1 vibrant economy, a free-spending elite and a demand for style and status. LOOKING BACK The U.S. textile industry plans to file China safeguard petitions as early as Today’s best styles borrow from previous decades 3 Oct. 7 against 20 import categories valued at over $2 billion last year. With the first debate between President Bush and Sen. John Kerry set for “Last night, I decided to have a ‘me’ night. delicious colors like lime, mango, coral and fuschia.” 28 tonight, where they stand on the issues will further crystallize with voters. I stocked up on all of the fall fashion magazines and Color is definitely an important factor in retro- rented some old classic films,” relates Deb, a 34-year inspired dressing, agree the experts, both for now and old working mother of one. “I couldn’t believe that the coming spring season. “The palettes are very soft MARKETS some of the more beautiful and elegant fashions on the and feminine in keeping with the styling,” maintains DENIM DISH: Calvin’s Choice in denim…Carhartt jeans on auction…Mavi screen looked remarkably like the styles on the pages Brooks. “Look for greens, yellows and lilacs. There 24 steps it up…Lee Denim Day eyes $7.5M…YMI’s ad push. of the current magazines.” She continues, “I’ve always will also be plenty of florals.” Details will be in ACTIVE: Smaller firms and niche brands, facing the dominance of Nike, loved Breakfast at Tiffany’s for Audrey Hepburn’s abundance as well. “There are ruffles, bows and ties and 25 Adidas and Puma, are embarking on strategies to pump up business. unbelievable sense of style, and other very feminine details; women BEAT: Spring was in the air at two trade shows in Manhattan, the venerable it’s great to see little cocktail want to feel pretty,” she adds. 26 Fashion Coterie and newbie The Train New York. dresses, elegant skirts, cardigan “There is a decidedly feminine sweaters, turtlenecks and belted feel to all of the looks,” asserts trench coats offered today.” Horowitz. “And with that, expect EYE “Fashion is definitely showing to see one of the biggest dress “Desperate Housewives” is a throwback to the prime-time soaps of the its love of history this season, seasons ever; dresses almost 4 Eighties…The Parker hotel rises in the desert…Teen Vogue’s PYTs. with inspiration drawn from always make an elegant and lady- Paris Preview appears on pages 15-23. many decades, including the like statement.” Forties, Fifties and Sixties,” Confirms Novobatzky, “Dresses Classified Advertisements ..................................................................30-31 observes Betsy Thompson, are very important, and there has To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is spokesperson for Talbot’s, the been great interest in them over [email protected], using the individual’s name. national retailer. “More than the last few months. It used to be WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. ever, women are putting their all about sleeveless, but now, VOLUME 188, NO. 69. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional own stamp on their wardrobes women are finally receptive to issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three by mixing new favorites with sleeves, mostly cut at the elbow.” additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 retro finds, dressy eveningwear Today’s retro chic is all about West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; “There is definitely a more ladylike Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, with daytime classics, men’s a melding of items from many Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior wear tailoring with ladylike turn to fashion right now. The looks different decades, according to Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at glamour, clean lines with note- are sweeter and feminine.” Talbot’s Thompson. “There’s the – Robin Brooks, additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration worthy details and shots of poncho, a slightly bohemian nod No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. Luca Luca POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. color with luxe surface interest.” to the Sixties and Seventies, and FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR “There is definitely a more ladylike turn to fashion there’s a floral brooch, which is affordable ladylike DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is right now,” agrees Robin Brooks, spokesperson glamour from the late Forties.” required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production for Luca Luca by Luca Orlandi, a collection of chic Borrowing key items and looks from different correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, fashions for modern women. “The looks are sweeter decades is just one way that today’s styles stand on please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild and feminine.” their own. “The Forties and Fifties were more about magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive “It’s wonderful to take references from the past one look; today, women are making each piece these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. and update them in fashion,” shares Marianne work,” considers Luca Luca’s Brooks. “They are WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND Novobtazky, who owns an eponymous boutique in mixing and matching pieces with jeans and different TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART Manhattan’s Soho District. heels and flats. It’s a look unique to one’s self.” WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED Concurs Shari Horowitz, a fashion consultant and “We are merely taking references from the past TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE trend observer based in New York City, “It just goes and updating it,” affirms Novobatzky. “It’s not ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. to show that what’s old can be new again. Fashion exactly the same thing it was before; our silhouettes right now is taking its are a little looser and the cue from simpler times. Sources of Clothing Ideas waist is dropped slightly.” In Brief However, these looks 03Q2 04Q2 +/- Thompson from Talbot’s themselves are anything adds, “Fabric innovations but simple; they are highly Already Own & Like 69.8% 71.5% 1.7 and clever blends continue ● FINALIZED DEAL: In an effort to increase its off-mall expansion, polished, sophisticated, and Store Displays 56.4% 53.3% -3.1 to keep things current Sears, Roebuck and Co.