©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

GERMANY, & ’S BEST TRIPS AMAZING 33 ROAD TRIPS

Marc Di Duca, Anthony Ham, Anthony Haywood, Catherine Le Nevez, Ali Lemer, Craig McLachlan, Hugh McNaughtan, Leonid Ragozin, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Benedict Walker, Kerry Walker SYMBOLS IN THIS BOOK CONTENTS History & Essential Top Tips Culture Photo

Link Family Walking Your Trips Tour

Tips from Food & Drink 5 Eating Locals PLAN YOUR TRIP Trip Outdoors Sleeping Detour 4 Welcome to , Austria & Switzerland...... 7 % Telephone i Internet E English- Number Access Language Menu Classic Trips...... 8 h Opening Hours W Wi-Fi Access c Family- Friendly Germany, Austria p Parking v Vegetarian & Switzerland Highlights Map...... 10 # n Nonsmoking Selection Pet-Friendly s a Air- Swimming Germany, Austria Conditioning Pool & Switzerland Highlights...... 12 If You Like...... 22 MAP LEGEND Need to Know...... 24 Routes Trips Trip Route Trip Numbers City Guide...... 26 Trip Detour Linked Trip Trip Stop Germany, Austria Walk Route & Switzerland by Region...... 30 Tollway Walking tour Freeway Primary Trip Detour Secondary Tertiary Population Lane Capital (National) Unsealed Road Capital ON THE ROAD Plaza/Mall (State/Province) Steps City/Large Town Tunnel Town/Village Pedestrian Overpass Areas NORTHEASTERN Walk Track/Path Beach Cemetery GERMANY...... 33 Boundaries (Christian) International Cemetery (Other) Along the State/Province Park Cliff Forest 1 Baltic Coast...... 5 Days 37 Reservation Hydrography Urban Area Design for Life: /Creek Sportsground 2 Bauhaus to VW.... 2–4 Days 47 Intermittent River Swamp/Mangrove Transport Canal Airport Lakes & Treasures of Water Cable Car/ 3 –Western Dry/Salt/ Funicular Pomerania...... 2–3 Days 55 Intermittent Lake Metro station Glacier Parking S-bahn station Highlights of Highway Markers Train/Railway 4 Saxony...... 5–7 Days 63 Highway marker Tram U-bahn station Central Germany’s 5 & Palaces...... 3–5 Days 73

Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book CONTENTS

.Berlin & the Jewels of Eastern Cologne & the 6 Brandenburg...... 4 Days 81 b Valley...... 4 Days 149

Via Regia...... 5–7 Days 89 Romantic 7 c ...... 5–7 Days 157

German Avenues 8 Route...... 5–7 Days 101 d Valley...... 2–4 Days 169

German Wine e Route...... 2–4 Days 177 NORTHWESTERN GERMANY...... 121 SOUTHERN GERMANY....189 North Sea 9 Bergstrasse...... 2–4 Days 193 Coast...... 5–7 Days 125 f German Fairy-Tale a Road...... 5 Days 135 German g Road...... 7 Days 201

Northeastern Germany Northwestern p Germany p

Southern Germany p Austria p Switzerland p

3 Contents cont.

The Romantic SWITZERLAND...... 335 h Road...... 10 Days 213 Northern i Glass Route...... 7 Days 227 t Switzerland...... 3 Days 339 Lake Geneva & Western German Alpine u Switzerland...... 4 Days 347 j Road...... 7 Days 235 v Geneva to k ...... 7 Days 247 Zürich...... 7 Days 355 w The Swiss Fantastic Alps...... 7 Days 365 l Road...... 4–6 Days 255 Graubünden x & Ticino...... 5 Days 377 Schwarzwald‑ m hochstrasse...... 2–4 Days 263

AUSTRIA...... 273 ROAD TRIP Along the n Danube...... 2–4 Days 277 ESSENTIALS

Grossglockner o Road...... 5–7 Days 285 Germany, Austria & Switzerland Driving Guide...... 391 & p ...... 5–7 Days 295 Germany, Austria & Switzerland Travel Guide...... 396 Castles of Language...... 404 q ...... 2–4 Days 305 Index...... 407 Salzkammer‑ r gut...... 5–7 Days 313

Carinthian s Lakes...... 2–4 Days 323

4 10 200 km GERMANY, 0 100 miles e# 0 DENMARK 200 km G T R 100 miles earn the antasies and the AUSTRIA & e# 0 0 DENMARK horrors in the stories o the #] G T R S lensbur rothersearn the ri antasies and the SWITZERLAND #] horrors in the stories o the \# Binz all nder r S R R lensbu rothers ri #\ Stralsund the spell o the astlelined #] iel #\ Binz HIGHLIGHTS riersapeR along R the allorld nder S #]ostock #\ Stralsund aosthe spell hine o the astlelined #] iel riersape along the orld Lübeck #\ ar ^# Wism #] ock aos hine S ost ck Norddeich Lübe ^##\ Wismwaerrin \# ever ^# Sch \# ^# #] cecin #] #] remerhaven Hamburg haven POLAND Norddeicilhmhelms ^# \# ever #] in \# #] #] erhaven ^#Hamburg cec Look out for the Classic Trips stamp Leeuwarden roninen rem \# Lneurg #\ #] helmshaven POLAND ilm #] Bremen bur ^# Leeuwarden roninenlden \# Lneurg #\ #] e #] rBrremen G R ^# a ldenbur ollo one o erans ost e e b BERLIN rr l pitrese treelined driing a #_ G R S ERLANDS m rotesollo one o erans ost on our favourite routes in this book. NETH e #] otsdam s #] olfsbur b P BERLIN Hanover ^# l #_ pitrese treelined driing #] ei S LANDS m #] snabruck raunsch rotes NETHER #] otsdam #] nschede s #] m#]olfsbur#] debPur Hanover ^# ildeshei a #] ei Dessau- #] sna#]bruieclkefeld raunsch s #] sslau \# rstadt Cottu en hede #] nster Ro Luthe \# ime nsc #] ldesheim #]ade\#bur #] i R Wittenerg h Dessau- h in #]ielefeld Brocken s e e sslau \# rstadt Cottu en i #] nster ) Ro Luthe \# ime n (1141m \# Hoyerswerda #] elsenkirchen R Wittenerg #\ hi #] #] inen #] h n ^# ^# und tt rocken alle uisbe ureg Dortm B D in l (1141m) ^# werda hen asse Hoyers d elsenkirc Kellerwald- #] #\ refel #]#] rtal #] ttinen #] Leipzig rf ^#^# ^#upDpoertmund Edersee ybural#]le G R DüDssueisldbourg #] nal Park re ^# olinen Natio assel ^# Castles palaes and ortresses d Kellerwald- #] Erfurt en refel #] rtal otha Leipzig Dresd ^# #] upspceh Edersee Kellerwald ^# ur #] era galoreG along this rote R ro German Avenues Düsseldorf ^# eri Park #] reyb #]ena #] erg Cologne #]olinen National National Park #] Chemnit^# S Vaalserb ladbach \# Siegen annheiCastles palaes to areth and ortresses (321m) a Erfurt Dresden R#]achen ald oth ^# era#]ickau #]#]oenrnisch Kellerw #] #]ena galore along this rote ro Signal derg Cologne ^# National Park #] #] hemnit S Vaalserbe ladbach \# iegieesnsen GERMANY #] uhl C annhei to areth Bo(3tr2a1nmg)e he Acht S \# RR#] acHhoen #] ickau (694m) (747m)#] onn al de R SiBgEnLGIUM iessen GERMANY #] uhl 8 nge #] \# Botra Hohe Acht oblen 101 Bu(6u9r4gpmla)Ratz (747m) T R R Route...... 5–7 Days CH CZE (559m)R R Frankfurt BELGIUM ^# #\ a REPUBLIC rion o historial aintness #] oblen#] in tz iesbaden Hanau rnning throgh aarias Buurgplaa #] #\ Bayreuth CZECH T R R (5U59XmE)MRBOURG Frankfurt Pleň S L ain ^# #\ UBLIC estern rion reaheso historial aintness Trier #]armstadt ai REP #] iesbaden#] Hanau #]rbur n rnning throgh aarias #] #] #\ Bayreuth XEMBOURG Pleň S LU ain #\ estern reahes #_ er #]armstadt rlangen #] Tri #]rbur URG#] aiserslautern nheim LUXEMBO #] #]#]an C#_ITY #\ rlangen cken Ludishafen G R aarbr erslautern LUXEMBOURG #] ais am h#]e#]inannheim ae the high road throgh #] eensbur CITY \# erans slie o ropes top cken Ludishafen #] Regen G R aarbr #] e S #] am heinarlsruh \# peasae the high road throgh #\ eensbur u ngolstadt on raena German Fairy-Tale #\ #] au \# Regen erans slie o ropes top FRANCE Porzheim S #] arlsruhe a \# nu peas onau anube #\ b nau ngolstadt #\ on ut rea e #] #\ Landshau FRANtCrEasbour KniPeboisrzheim e a #_ R ub #] n ]# Pöchlarn _# usbur sin u Lin onau anube o \# lm \# n #] rei b aun#\ ^# s n #\ e r i a LAVA e #] ach Landshut BRATIS e engen VIENNA l trasbour Kniebis u l h a e n #_ e R on b #] ]# Pöchlar _# a u \# n usbur^# reiicshin Lin ^# o \# lm Mun \# n #] raun 135 s A Road...... 5 Days i bur a AV L e rei IS e ar #\ enach #\ n BRAT l Colm e eng u munde n #\ l au a ndserg i h reis La e #]im on h m Lech ^# unich ^# R a M bur \ e rei MCuollhmoaurs#e Stein am #\ mundAeUnSTRIA #\ n Feldberg au #\ ndserg i reis La #]im93m) Rhein h (14 h R \# am Lec ^#Salzburg e hm USTRIA Mulhous ^# berg Stein a e n A #\ Feld in ^# egenz n sel(1493m) St GRahlelienn Br R Ba \# ^# Zugspitze ra ^# 963m) r bs ^# he (2 #] n u #] ou Zürich NinSTE^#IN egenz n LIECHeTnE Br R sbruck #\ Basel St Gall ^# pitze nn R Rennweg #] ne ^# #_ Zugs ra iel Lucer VADUZ (2963m) Grossglockner ur bs ^# #] ) #] ou ienne Zürich^# SchwHyTzENSTEIN (3798m #_ LIEC nnsbruck R #\ ennweg RY #] BERN R rhorn in R HUNGA iel Lucerne Stanse UheZ#_^ ner ra Klagenurt ^# VAD Grossglock u ]# aribor iennenterlakenSWITZERLA^#NSDchwyz (3798m) Romantic #_ #] LOVENIA CROATIA BERN R n n S e Stanserhor hei ^#Chur ra Klagenurt Lausann R n u ]# aribor ^# RFinsteraaNrhDor ITALY R nSctheirlltahkorennSWITZERL)A Triglav #]) (4274m 864m) SLOVENIA CROATIA \# (2970m (2 ushaonnnoen- R La e R raarhorn R G R ^#s-Bains n n Finste ITALY Triglav ^# le hSchilthor (4274mLo) carno (2970m) #] T S he greatest (2864m) ist and trn along three o c Geneva\# honon-#\ y e o the great otdoors peret striasG ost spetalar R 157 les-BaMinasrtighnn carno S Rhine ...... 5–7 Days Lo ^# R he greatest ontain passes Chamoni #] orn #] se peas gorgeos glaiers ist and trn along three o M#\ atterh are T S Genevalanc R #\ S Mt B (3883m) #] mo erdant© SHUTTERSTOCK / alles strias ost spetalar (4807m) Martigny Co o the great otdoors peret S R ontain passes Chamoni #] rhorn ella se peas gorgeos glaiers atte i are © SHUTTERSTOCK / c R M S Mt Blan (3883m) #] #] #\ mo erdant alles Maus across the river near the (4807m) Co iella village of Wellmich. Shortly

11 #] afterwards, you’ll spot Burg Rheinfels on the west bank above St Goar. German 8 St Goar Lording over the village of St Goar are the sprawling ruins of Burg Rheinfels GERMANY NORTHWESTERN (%06741-7753; www.st-goar. g de; Schlossberg 47; adult/child Castle Road ...... 7 Days 201 €5/2.50, guided mine tour €7/ free; h9am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 5pm Mar & Nov, guided mine tours by reservation) , once the Rhine’s mightiest fortress.

Built in 1245 by Count 12 Dieter von Katzeneln -

bogen as a base for his

ne HI R TIC n A Rom toll-collecting operations, its size and labyrinthine layout are astonishing. The Romantic Kids (and adults) will love exploring the subterra -

/ SHUTTERSTOCK © SHUTTERSTOCK / nean tunnels and galleries WHY THIS IS A (bring a torch). From St Goar’s northern edge, fol CLASSIC TRIP - h low the Schlossberg road MARC DI DUCA, Road...... 10 Days 213 to the castle. WRITER 54p167 The romance along this stretch of the Rhine is timeless. Poets The Drive » Take the five- and painters including Lord Byron minute car ferry across to the little village of St Goarshausen. and William Turner are among From St Goarshausen’s those who have been inspired by Marktplatz, follow the L338 as this castle-crowned, forest-and- it twists steeply uphill through vineyard-cloaked valley. A fabled thick forest for 1.2km and turn stop on the original European right onto the K89 for 2.5km to Grand Tour, the riverscape here is reach Loreley. German now a designated Unesco World Heritage site. It doesn’t get more classic than that. 9 Loreley The most storied spot j along the Romantic Alpine Road...... 7 Days 235 Rhine, Loreley is an enor - mous, almost vertical Above: Hunsrückbahn bridge (p161), Boppard slab of slate; it owes its

Right: Typical half-timbered house, Bacharach fame to a mythical maid - (p165) en whose siren songs Left: Statue of ‘Die Lorelei’, Loreley (p163)

163 haus’ leading lights lived. Quedlinburg, a Unesco 1 Dessau-Rosslau Juxtapose these with World Heritage town, is The former East German the 112-hectare Wörlitz one of the loveliest in the Grossglockner (GDR) town of Dessau- Park & Schloss Wörlitz region. Learn about its Rosslau, 130km south of (p50), the pinnacle of centuries-old Fachwerk Berlin, is best known for the Garden Realm which (half-timbered) houses being the birthplace of is 20km east of town (there are 1400 or so) in German Avenues the Bauhaus movement, on the L133. Return to the Fachwerkmuseum o but is also famed for the Dessau-Rosslau and head im Ständerbau (%03946- Route Gartenreich Dessau- southwest on the B185 for 3828; Wordgasse 3; adult/ Road...... 5–7 Days 285 8 NORTHEASTERN GERMANY Wörlitz, one of the finest 11km, for a peek at petite concession €3/2; h10am-5pm On this magic loop through the diverse natural beauty of the ancient states garden ensembles in Schloss & Park Mosigkau Fri-Wed Apr-Oct). Wander Germany. Begin at the (%039404-521 139; www.gar- freely around its enchant- of Saxony-Anhalt, Lower Saxony, Thuringia and Saxony, you’ll fall in love with Bauhaus sites: the tenreich.com; Knobelsdorffallee ing cobblestone streets the eye-catching villages of Quedlinburg and Goslar, perhaps take a steam Bauhausgebäude (p50), 3; palace €7.50; h10am-5pm and spectacular medieval erected in 1925–26 as a Tue-Sun May-Sep, Sat & Sun marketplace, where you’ll train to the top of a mountain, see where Bach was born and Goethe died, school of Bauhaus art, only Apr & Oct), a ‘miniature find a wonderful mix of keep watch from the Wartburg and ponder the histories written upon the design and architecture, Sanssouci’. original options for win- and the three Meisterhäu- ing, dining and resting 8

54p53 Ge R m A n Avenue S Rou T e culture-laden cities of Erfurt, Weimar, Dresden and Leipzig. ser (p50) where Bau- your head. Perched high #\ The Drive » From Schloss & on a 25m plateau above The Swiss #] Park Mosigkau, take the B185 town, Quedlinburg’s for 15km to the pretty village of Renaissance palace Köthen, where Bach composed houses today’s Schloss- 0¸ /· his Brandenburg concertos % B B182 A9 museum ( 03946-905 681; ode E #\ Lübben and The Well-Tempered Clavier. /·B81 lb Schlossberg 1; adult/conces- w e Lutherstadt Continue on the B185 for 45km \# Alfeld Goslar le Dessau- 365 /·B6 a Wittenberg sion €9.50/7.50; h10am-6pm Alps...... 7 Days Halberstadt #\ a Rosslau \# to the junction with the B6. #4 Wernigerode \# Stassfurt S % \# J Dessau- \# Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, to 4pm \# Follow the B6 for 20km, to \# #1 Wörlitzer S /·B87 R #3 c # /·B6 0¸ Elbauen h Quedlinburg. Nov-Mar), with fascinating Brocken #\ B185 w #\ #2 #\ E a (1141m) l r b z Ottonian-period exhibits #\ Aschersleben Köthen e e Osterode Quedlinburg E Harz NP l am Harz Wolfen s \# dating from 919 to 1056. t TRIP HIGHLIGHT #\ e /·A9 Torgau r Lutherstadt #\ #\ The Lyonel Feininger /·A14 Eisleben M /·B2 2 Quedlinburg Galerie (%03946-689 Göttingen #\ u l

#] Nordhausen eida d W e #\ #] Situated on a fertile plain 5930; www.feininger-galerie. /·A13 /·A38 Halle Wurzen at the northern cusp of de; Schlossberg 11; adult/ #H \# /· S /· A38 #^14 B6 #\ concession €6/4; h10am-6pm W p000 a # Riesa the Harz Mountains, little FG10 eine a L l e e Leipzig #\ rr a /·B4 \# Oschatz /·B6 Meissen #\ Freyburg /·A14 #] Grimma #\ #\ n #5 Mühlhausen /·B87 e E b l Dresden #\ #\ \# beln be a Naumburg r /·A4 1^#3 LINK 0¸ g # L1016 lo /·B7 /·A9 F YOUR /·B88 I# Fu Hainich NP Weimar 4 l Erfurt Altenburg #\ /·A72 Freiberg p000 FG TRIP da #\ \# Gotha ^# /·B7 #9 \# \# Eisenach#6 ]# #8 /· Bad #1]#0 Jena A4 ]# Highlights of German Fairy- Hersfeld /·A7 #] #] #\ #12 /·B19 /· Gera 4 Saxony a Tale Road 0¸L1026 B88 Chemnitz Teplice Pick up this scenic jaunt From Schmalkalden, Zwickau #] #\ ##\7 Annaberg in Dresden to immerse head southwest for Schmalkalden 1#\1 Buchholz # #\ \# yourself in Saxony’s 110km to Steinau to link #] Suhl Most Saalfeld #\ rich history and diverse up with this whimsical Fulda Meiningen #\ #\ Plauen \# #\ architecture. journey. Chomutov Eisfeld Oh re #\ W e rra re #\ Karlovy h Sonneberg #\ O e# 0 50 km Vary 103 0 25 miles Hof #\ #\ CZECH REPUBLIC Coburg #\ #_

CHINNAPHONG MUNGSIRI / GETTY IMAGES ©

The Swiss Alps 32 From Arosa to Zermatt, this zig-zagging trip is the A to Z of Switzerland’s astounding Alpine scenery, with majestic peaks, formidable panoramas, cable-car rides and local charm.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 7 DAYS 537KM / 333 MILES 77 km 612 km als GREAT FOR… ermatt A modern architectural Switzerland's Alpine jewel embellishes this heart beats remote spa town JG strongest here BEST TIME TO GO This trip can be done year-round, although certain mountain # Arosa lL passes may be closed to vehicular traffic. 2 rindelwald # # # tt R Anderma Schilthorn (2970m) ESSENTIAL #11 I PHOTO The Matterhorn

BEST FOR K OUTDOORS #12 Whatever the season, mK the Alps offer activities galore. letsch lacier A mesmerising marvel, viewed from on-high 538 km 365

LocationZermatt (p374)Caption details to go here

5 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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ACKNOWLEDGE- Front cover photographs Back cover photograph: MENTS (clockwise from top): Seeschloss Ort, Wallfahrtskirche St Vinzenz, Traunsee, Austria, Anna Climate map data adapted Heiligenblut (near the start of the Serrano/4Corners© from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & Grossglockner Road), Austria, McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Mathew Roberts Photography/ World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Getty© Climate Classification’,Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, Johann Strauss Denkmal, 1633–44. Vienna, Austria, Jon Arnold/ AWL© BMW Isetta Moto Coupe, Moselle Valley, Germany, Helmut Corneli/ Alamy©

THIS BOOK Walker. This guidebook was Book Designer & Cover produced by the following: Researcher Meri Blazevski This 2nd edition of Lonely Planet’s Germany, Austria Destination Editors Niamh Assisting Editors Nigel Chin, & Switzerland’s Best Trips O’Brien, Brana Vladisavljevic Andrea Dobbin, Trent Holden, guidebook was researched Senior Product Editor Sandie Jodie Martire, Rosie Nicholson, and written by Marc Di Duca, Kestell Lauren O’Connell, Kristin Odijk, Anthony Ham, Anthony Charlotte Orr, Susan Paterson, Product Editor Rachel Rawling Haywood, Catherine Le Nevez, Ali Mani Ramaswamy, Gabrielle Lemer, Craig McLachlan, Hugh Regional Senior Cartographer Stefanos, Fionnuala Twomey Mark Griffiths McNaughtan, Leonid Ragozin, Thanks to Merle Bonefaas, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Cartographer Alison Lyall Melanie Dankel, Grace Dobell, Benedict Walker and Kerry Katherine Marsh, Wibowo Rusli

406 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

INDEX

Augsburg 219-20, 225 Bellinzona 384, 385 A Augustiner Bräustübl 330 Benz, Bertha 197-8 accessible travel 397 Augustiner Chorherrenstift Berchtesgaden 243-4, 245 accommodation 25, 397-9 280 Bergstrasse 193-9 activities, see car racing, Aussichtsturm Berlin 12, 26-7, 82-3, 87, hiking, skiing, spas Pyramidenkogel 326 116-17 air travel 396 Bern 359-60 airships 249 B Bernkastel-Kues 171, 175 Binz 44, 45 Aktivzentrum Zillertal 289-91 Bach, Johann Sebastian 94, Albertinum 118-19 97, 108 Black Forest, the 14 Aletsch Glacier 373-4, 375 Bacharach 165, 167 Black Forest High Road 263-9 Alken 174 40 Blausee 373 Allerheiligen Münster 343 Bad Dürkheim 182, 183 BMW 94, 108 Allerheiligen Wasserfälle Bad Ischl 318 boat travel 150-2, 161, 166 267, 269 Bad Karlshafen 142 Bockenheim an der Alte Oper 184 Bad Ragaz 378-80 Weinstrasse 182-3 Altes Schloss 250, 258 Bad Schandau 66 Bodensee Erlebniskarte 250 Altmühltal Nature Park 220 Bad Tölz 242 Bodenwerder 143 368, 375 Baden-Baden 260, 261, Bonn 159-60 Annweiler 17, 178 264-5, 269 Boppard 161-3 Appenzell 341-2, 345 Baltic coast 38-45 Brandenburg Gate 116 aquariums 43 Bamberg 208 Braubach 161 archaeological sites & ruins Basel 344, 345 Brauerei Locher 341-2 132, 150, 170-1, 186, 194-5, Bastei 67 388-9 Brecht, Bertolt 220 bathrooms 403 architecture 23, see also Bregenz 252, 253, 292, 293, Bauhaus 48-50, 52, 103 Bauhaus 296-7, 303 Bautzen 66 Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) Bregenzer Festspiele 297 Bavarian Forest National 194 Bregenzerwald Käsestrasse Park 232 area codes 403 299 Bayreuth 209, 211 Arena Coaster 289 Breisach 259-60 beaches 43, 44 Arosa 367, 375 Bremen 129-30, 133, 144, 147 beech forests 60 arts 23 Bremerhaven 129, 144-5 Beethoven, Ludwig van 159 Asamkirche 270 breweries 129, 171 Beilstein 172-3 ATMs 401 Burg Eltz 173-4 Beinhaus 320

407 Burg Forchtenstein 308-9 concentration camps 76, road distances 393 Burg Frankenstein 195-6 86, 109 road rules 392, 393-4 Burg Güssing 309 costs 25, 398, 401, 402 safety 392-3, 395 Burg Guttenberg 204 credit cards 401 websites 392 Burg Hasegg 301-2 currency 24 Duisburg 150-2 Burg Hochosterwitz 325-6 Czech Republic 209 Dürnstein 281-2 Burg Hohenwerfen 288 Düsseldorf 158 Burg Hohenzollern 258 D Burg 309, 311 INDEX dangers, see safety E Burg Trifels 178 Danube, the 277-283 Eagle’s Nest 243-4, 244

Burggarten 332-3 B-F Darmstadt 194, 199 East Frisian Islands 128 business hours 401-2 Darss-Zingst Peninsula 41 Eichstätt 220 Davos 380, 385 Eisbach Surfers 271 C debit cards 401 Eisenach 78, 79, 94-5, 108, cable cars 165 Deidesheim 180-2, 183 114 CabriO 361 Denghoog 132 electricity 399-400 Café Central 332 Dessau-Rosslau 48-50, 53, Emden 126 car hire 24 103 emergencies 24, 403, 405 car insurance 391 Dinkelsbühl 216-17, 224 Emmentaler Schaukäserei car racing 198 disabilities, travellers with 397 360 car travel, see driving discount cards 318 Emmental Region 360 Caracalla Spa 265 Abbey 368 Engelberg 368, 375 Casino (Baden-Baden) 260 Dolomite peaks 328 Engelhartszell an der Donau 279-80 Castelgrande 384 Dom (Salzburg) 331 Englischer Garten 271 Castello di Montebello 384 Dom St Stephan 229 Erfurt 77, 79, 95-6, 99, 108-9, Castello di Sasso Corbaro Donauwörth 219 114 384 Dornburger Schlösser 76 Erzabtei St Peter 331 castles 23, see also individual Dortmund 152-3, 155 castles (schloss, burg) Drei Gleichen 77-8 Essen 152 Cathédrale St-Pierre 388 Dresden 20, 68-9, 69, 71, 98, cell phones 25, 402 99, 112-13, 115, 118-19 F drinking 310 Château de Chillon 351 Fagus Werk, Alfeld 52 drinks 21-2, see Château de Gruyères 352 Fairy-Tale Road 135-47 also breweries, wine Château de Prangins 349 Feldkirch 297-8, 303 driving 289, 391-5, 396 Checkpoint Charlie 117 Festung Hohensalzburg 302, car ferries 161 Chemnitz 112 330 car hire 24, 391-2 Chiemsee 242-3 Festung Königstein 66-7 documents 391 children, travel with 93, 205 food 22, 25, 360, 400-1, 401 driving licence 391 Chur 378 Frankfurt 21, 25, 92, 92-3, Cliff Walk 369 fuel 24, 395 99, 184-5 climate 24 insurance 391 Frankfurt (Oder) 85, 87 Coburg 208-9, 211 low-emissions vehicles 394 Frau Gerolds Garten 387 Cochem 173, 175 maps 392 Frauenau 229 Cologne 150, 155, 158-9, music 395 Frauenkirche 69, 112, 119, 186-7 parking 394 270-1

408 Freitag Tower 387 310, 324-5, 329 HockenheimRing 198 French 405 Greetsiel 126-8 Hofburg 300-1, 332 Freudenstadt 268, 269 Greifswald 42, 60, 61 Hofkirche 300 Freyburg 75-6 Grimm, Brothers (Wilhelm Hofmann, Albert 344 Fribourg 358 & Jacob) 78, 136, 137, 139, holidays 402 Friedrichsbad 265 142, 143 Holocaust Memorial 116 Friedrichshafen 249, 253 Grimmwelt 139 Husum 131-2 fuel 24, 395 Grindelwald 369, 371-2, 375 Fulda 94, 138 Grossglockner High Alpine Road 288-9 I INDEX Fünfseenland 239 Grube Messel 194-5 Im Viadukt 386

Funiculaire de Fribourg 358 Gruyères 17, 352, 353 Innsbruck 291, 293, 300-1, F-K Füssen 221-2, 225, 238, 245 guest cards 243 303 Gustav Klimt Zentrum 317 insurance 391 G Güstrow 58-9, 61 Interlaken 358-9 Gänseliesel 141 Gutenberg-Museum Mainz 92 internet access 25, 401 gardens, see parks & gardens J Garmisch-Partenkirchen H 239-40, 245 Hall in Tirol 301-2 Jagdschloss Granitz 43-4 gas 24, 395 Halle 97 Jardin Anglais 388 gay travellers 401 Hallstatt 320, 321 Jena 96, 110-11, 114 Gedenkstätte Buchenwald 76 Hambacher Schloss 178-80 Jever 128-9 Gedenkstätte & Museum Hamburg 130-1, 133 Jodel Wanderweg 289 Sachsenhausen 86 Hamburger Kunsthalle 130 JOSKA Bodenmais 232 Gedenkstätte Seelower Hamelin 143, 147 Jungfraujoch 362 Höhen 85-6 Hanau 93, 136 Gendarmenmarkt 117 Händel, Georg Friedrich 97 K Geneva 356-7, 388-9 Hanover 52, 143-4 Kaiserdom 184 Gengenbach 260, 261 39, 41, 42 Kaiservilla 318 Gerlos Alpine Road 289 Hans-Eisenmann-Haus 232 Kammer 316-17 German 404-5 Harburg 217 Kandersteg 373, 375 Geroldsauer Wasserfälle 265 Heidelberg 196-7, 199, 203-4, Karls 44 Giessbachfälle 369-71 256-7 Käsekeller Lingenau 299 Gläserne Wald 230-2 Heimatkundliches Käse-Molke Metzler 299 Glass Route 227-33 Museum 315 Kassel 78, 139, 146 Gletscherschlucht 371 Helgoland 132 Katholische Kirche 308 Goethe, Johann Wolfgang von Herrenhäuser Gärten 143 Kaub 164-5 76, 98, 110 hiking 66, 161 Kirchner Museum 380 Gohren 43 history 22, see also concen- Kitzbühel 302, 303 Görlitz 64-5, 71, 98 tration camps Klagenfurt 326, 329 Gornergratbahn 372 Hanseatic League 41 Klimt, Gustav 317 Goslar 105, 114 V2 rocket 42 Kloster Chorin 86 Gotha 95 WWII 69, 85-6, 92, 154, Kloster Disentis 368 Göttingen 141-2, 147 160, 187 Kloster St Johann 381 Grafenau 233 Hitler, Adolf 221, 244

409 Klostermuseum St Georg Linz 280, 283 Monte Brè 383 342 Locarno 383-4 Montreux 350-1, 353 Kniebis 267-8 Lorelei Sculpture 164 Moritzburg 69 Koblenz 160-1, 167, 174 Loreley 163-4 Moselle Valley 20, 169-75 Königssee 244 196 motorcycle travel, see Konstanz 250, 253, 259, 261 Lotharpfad 267 driving Krems an der Donau 282, Lübbenau 83, 87 mountains 22 283 Lübeck 38-9, 45 Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus Krimmler Wasserfälle 289 Lucerne 361 Mozarthaus 315 INDEX Krippenstein 320 Ludwigslust 57 Mozarts Geburtshaus 302, Krupp family 154 331 Lugano 383, 385 K-M Kühlungsborn 40 Lüneburg 56-7, 61 Mozart-Wohnhaus 302 Kultur und Kongresszentrum Luther, Martin 220 Mühlhausen 105-8 361 Mummelsee 266, 269 Kunsthalle Zürich 386 Münchhausen Museum 143 Kunsthaus (Bregenz) 252, M Munich 242, 270-1 362 Magdeburg 50-1, 53 Münster 153-4, 155, 250, 344 Kunsthaus Graz 325 Maienfeld 385 Münster (Bern) 359 Kunstmeile 282 Mainau Island 260 Murinsel 325 Kunstmuseum (Bern) 360 Mainz 92, 166, 167 Müritz National Park 60 KZ-Gedenkstätte Mittelbau Mammuthöhle 320 Musée d’Art et d’Histoire 358 Dora 109 Mannheim 203, 210 Musée d’Art Moderne et maps 392 Contemporain 356 L Marburg 137-8, 146 Musée International de la Märchenstrasse 143, 135-47 Croix-Rouge et du Crois- La Clémence 389 Marienplatz 270 sant-Rouge 356 La Maison du Gruyère 352 Matterhorn Glacier Paradise Musée International de la Lake Constance 247-53 372 Réforme 389 Lake Geneva 15 Matterhorn Museum 374 Musée Olympique 349 Lake Müritz 59 Mauthausen Memorial 280 Musée Romain 349 lakes 23, 60, see also indi- measures 397 Museo Nazionale San vidual lakes Meersburg 249-50, 258-9 Gottardo 384 Landeck 298-9 Mehliskopf 265-6 Museum Carnuntinum 308 Landsberg am Lech 220 Meissen 69-70 Museum der Bayerischen language 24, 404-5 Könige 221 Melk 281 Lausanne 349-50, 353 Museum der Moderne 330 Mercedes-Benz Museum Lauterbrunnen 372 257-8 Museum Frieder Burda 265 Lavaux 350, 353 Migros Museum 386 Museum Für Gestaltung Leipzig 70, 71, 74-5, 97-8, 99, 386-7 Millstatt 327 113, 115 Museum Jean Tinguely 344 Minimundus 326 lesbian travellers 401 Museum Kitzbühel 302 Mittenwald 241-2 LGBTQI+ travellers 401 Museum Mondseeland und mobile phones 25, 402 Lienz 288, 328, 329 Pfahlbaumuseum 316 Mönchsjochhütte 362 Ligerz 344, 345 Museum Sammlung 316 Lindau 237-8, 245, 248-9, Rosengart 361 253 money 24, 25, 398, 401, 402

410 Museumsdorf Bayerischer Residenzplatz 331 Wald 229 P Residenzschloss 119 MuseumsQuartier 332 Paderborn 154, 155 Restaurant Bareiss 268 Museum zu Allerheiligen 343 Palais des Nations 357 Rheinfall 343-4 Müstair 381 Parc des Bastions 389 Rhine, the 14, 161, 166 Muzikinstumente-Museum parking 394 Rhine Valley 157-67 der Völker 315 parks & gardens 50, 52, 143 river cruises 282 Partnachklamm 241 , see Danube, Rhine N Passau 228-9, 233, 278-9, road distances 393 INDEX Naschmarkt 306 283 road rules 392, 393-4

Passauer Glasmuseum 228-9 road tolls 289 Nationalpark Kellerwald- M-S Edersee 139 Passionstheater 238 Rolls-Royce Museum 292 national parks 60, 66, 139, Patek Philippe Museum 356 Romantic Road 213-25 232, 266, 380-1 Peak Walk by Tissot 352 Romantische Strasse 213-25 Nationalpark Schwarzwald Peenemünde 42 Römerberg 185 266 Peterskirche 333 Rorschach 252 Naumburg 96-7 petrol 24, 395 41, 45 Neue Galer 324-5 Petronell-Carnuntum 307-8 Rothenburg ob der Tauber 17, Neuer Leuchtturm 237 Pfalzgrafstein 164 216, 224 Neues Schloss 250, 259 Pfänder Cable Car 252 Rüdesheim 165-6, 167 Neubrandenburg 60, 61 phone codes 403 Rügensche Bäderbahn 43 Neuhardenberg 87 Pillnitz 68 Ruhrgebiet 152 Neustadt an der Weinstrasse Pirna 68 ruins, see archaeological 180, 183 Place du Bourg-de-Four 389 sites & ruins Neustrelitz 59-60 plugs 399-400 Rust 308, 311 Neuzelle 87 Porsche Museum 258 Nietzsche Haus 97, 382 Potsdamer Platz 116 S Norddeich 128, 133 Prerow 42 Saalfeld 111-12 Nordkettenbahnen 291 Prince Albert 208 Saarbrücken 90-2 Nördlingen 217, 225 public holidays 402 safety 392-3, 395, 402 NS Dokumentationszentrum Salzburg 19, 287, 302, 303, 187 314-15, 321, 330-1 Nuremberg 205-8, 210-11 Q Salzwelten 320 Nyon 348-9, 353 Quedlinburg 103-4, 114 Santuario della Madonna del Queen studio experience Sasso 384 350-1 Saxon Switzerland National O Queen Victoria 208 Oberammergau 238 Park 66 Obertraun 319-20 Saxony 63-71 Oberwesel 164 R Schafbergbahn 319 Oeschinensee 373 radio 395 Schaffhausen 342-3 opening hours 401-2 Rappenlochschlucht 292 Schiffbau 387 Ossiacher See 327 Regensburg 230 Schifffahrt Loidl 318 Ottenhöfen 17, 266-7 Reichstag 117 Schiffshebewerk Remagen 160 Niederfinow 86 Residenz 271 Schilthorn 372-3

411 Schloss Ambras 301-2 Semperoper 118 Swiss Alps 17 Schloss Arenenberg 342 Sils-Maria 382-3, 385 Swiss National Park 380-1 Schloss Branitz, Cottbus 84 Silvretta High Alpine Road Sylt 132, 133 Schloss Bruck 328 292 Schloss Eggenberg 310 Site Archéologique de la T Schloss Ehrenburg 208-9 Cathédrale St-Pierre 388-9 Tauberbischofsheim 215-16 Schloss Esterházy 308 skiing 292 Tegelbergbahn 238 Schloss Friedenstein 95 Soest 17, 154, 155 telephone services 25, 402-3 Schloss Güstrow 58 Sound of Music, The 319 INDEX theft 402 Schloss Heidelberg 196, 203 Sorbian people 66, 83 spas 182, 265, 367 thermal springs, see spas Schloss Hellbrunn 315 S-V Therme Vals 367 Schloss Herrenchiemsee 243 Spittal an der Drau 328 time 352, 397 Schloss Hohenschwangau Spreewald 83 222-3 Sprengel Museum 52 tipping 25, 402 Schloss Hohentübingen 258 St Anton am Arlberg 298 Tiroler Schnapsroute 300 Schloss Landeck 298 St Florian 280 Tittling 229 Schloss Laufen 343 St Gallen 340-1 toilets 403 Schloss Linderhof 238-9 St Gilgen 315 Topographie des Terrors 117 Schloss Ludwigslust 57 St Goar 163, 167 tourist information 403 Schloss Mirabell 315 St Goarshausen 165 Traben-Trarbach 172, 175 Schloss Moritzburg 69 St Gotthard Pass 384 train travel 396-7 Schloss Neuschwanstein St Moritz 382, 385 train trips 40, 43, 105 19, 222 St Wolfgang 318-19 transport 25, 396-7 Schloss Porcia & Museum für Staatsoper 333 Traunkirchen 318, 321 Volkskultur 328 Städel Museum 185 Travemünde 39-40 Schloss Riegersburg 310 Stadtmuseum 318 Trier 170-1, 175 Schloss 298 Stanserhorn 361 Trümmelbachfälle 372 Schloss Schauenstein 383 Starkenberger Biermythos Tschuggen Bergoase Spa 367 Schloss Schönbrunn 306 299-300 Tübingen 258, 261 Schloss Weesenstein 68 Stein am Rhein 342, 345 TV 397 Schloss Wilhelmshöh 78 Steinau 93-4, 136-7 Schloss Wilhelmsthal 78 Stephansdom 333 U Schloss Wörlitz 50 Stift Göttweig 282 Unesco Biosphere Entlebuch Schmalkalden 108 Stift Melk 281 361 Schongau 221 Stift Neuzelle 84-5 Universitätsmuseum 256 Schoppernau 298 Stift Nonnberg 315, 330 Unterach am 316 Schwäbisch Hall 204, 210 Stift Stams 300 Schwarzwaldhochstrasse Stiftsbibliothek 340-1 263-9 Stralsund 42-3, 45 V Schwarzwaldstube 268 Strand Club 327 vacations 402 Schweigen-Rechtenbach 178 Strandbad Horn 250 Vals 375 Schwerin 57-8, 61 Stubaital 292 Velden am Wörthersee 326-7 Seebad Utoquai 362 Studentenkarzer 256 Venet 299 Seeschloss Ort 317 Stuttgart 257-8 Verkehrshaus 361 Segelschule Mondsee 316 sustainable travel 394 Via Mala 383

412 Via Regia 89-99 Weiden 232, 233 Würzburg 214-15, 224 Vienna 14, 25, 28, 282, 283, weights 397 Würzburg Residenz 214-15 306, 311, 332-3 Weikersheim 216 WWII 244 Viktualienmarkt 270 Weimar 48, 53, 76-7, 79, 96, Vinorama 350 109-10, 110 X Vinothek Viniterra Bielersee Weissensee 328 344 Weissensee Schifffahrt 328 Xanten 152, 155 visas 24, 403 Werfen 288, 293 Vitra Design Museum 344 Wernigerode 104 Z INDEX Volkswagen 51-2 Wieskirche 221 Zell 172 Vorarlberg Museum 252, Wiesloch 197-8 Zell am See 289 296-7 V-Z wi-fi 25 Zell am Ziller 289-91, 293 Wildgehege Breitenbrunnen Zentrum Paul Klee 359 W 266 Zeppelin Museum 249 Wilhelmshöhe 139-41, 146-7 Walderlebnisstation Zeppelin NT 249 Hundseck 266 Windsurfcenter Zell Am See Zermatt 374, 375 289 Wallfahrtskirche 318 Zierker See 59 wine 21, 75, 171, 310, 373 Wallfahrtskirche Birnau 250 Zitadelle Petersberg 77 Dürkheimer Wurstmarkt Wallraf-Richartz-Museum 186 Zugspitze 239 wine festival 182 walking, see hiking Zum Roten Ochsen 256-7 German Wine Route 177-83 Waren 59 Zumdorf 368 Schwarze Katz 172 Warnemünde 40 Zuoz 381-2, 385 Winklern 293 Wartburg 78 Zürich 19, 25, 29, 362, 386-7 Wismar 40, 45 weather 24 Zwiesel 230, 233 Wissembourg (France) 180 websites 25, 392 Zwinger 68, 118 Wolfsburg 51-2, 53 Weesenstein 68 Wörlitz Park 50

413 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

LEONID RAGOZIN ANDREA SCHULTE-PEEVERS

Leonid Ragozin studied beach dynamics at the Born and raised in Germany and educated in London Moscow State University, but for want of decent and at UCLA, Andrea has travelled the distance to beaches in Russia, he switched to journalism and the moon and back in her visits to some 75 countries. spent 12 years voyaging through different parts of She has earned her living as a professional travel the BBC, with a break for a four-year stint as a foreign writer for more than two decades and authored or correspondent for the Russian Newsweek. Leonid is contributed to nearly 100 Lonely Planet titles as well currently a freelance journalist focusing largely on as to newspapers, magazines and websites around the conflict between Russia and Ukraine (both his the world. She also works as a travel consultant, Lonely Planet destinations), which prompted him to translator and editor. Andrea’s destination expertise leave Moscow and find a new home in Rīga. is especially strong when it comes to Germany, Dubai and the UAE, Crete and the Caribbean Islands. She makes her home in Berlin and tweets @ASchultePeevers.

BENEDICT WALKER KERRY WALKER Benedict was born in Newcastle, New South Wales, Kerry is an award-winning travel writer, photographer Australia, and grew up in the ‘burbs spending and Lonely Planet author, specialising in Central and weekends and long summers by the beach whenever Southern Europe. Based in Wales, she has authored/ possible. Although he is drawn magnetically to the co-authored more than a dozen Lonely Planet titles. kinds of mountains he encountered in the Canadian An adventure addict, she loves mountains, cold Rockies and the Japan and Swiss Alps, beach life is places and true wilderness. She features her latest in his blood. Japan was Benedict’s first gig for Lonely work at https://its-a-smallworld.com and tweets Planet, in 2008/9, and he has been blessed to have @kerryawalker. Kerry’s insatiable wanderlust has been asked back three more times. He has since taken her to all seven continents and shows no sign of worked on numerous Lonely Planet titles, including waning. Her writing appears regularly in publications guides to Australia, Canada, Germany and the USA. like Adventure Travel magazine and she is a Telegraph Join him on his journeys on Instagram: travel expert for Austria and Wales. @wordsandjourneys. ANTHONY HAYWOOD CATHERINE LE NEVEZ

Born in the port city of Fremantle, Western Australia, Catherine has travelled to some 60 countries, Anthony first pulled anchor in the late 1970s to travel completing her doctorate of creative arts in writing, Europe, North Africa and the US. Later he studied master’s in professional writing, and postgrad comparative literature and Russian language at qualifications in editing and publishing along the university. Anthony works as a freelance journalist way. Over the past 15 years, she has written scores and writer based in Germany. Publications include of Lonely Planet guides and articles covering Paris, Lonely Planet guidebooks, Siberia – A Cultural History France, Europe and far beyond. Her work has also (Signal Books/Oxford University Press), travel appeared in numerous online and print publications. articles, short stories and translations.

ALI LEMER CRAIG MCLACHLAN

Ali has been a Lonely Planet writer and editor since Craig has covered destinations all over the globe 2007, and has authored guidebooks and travel for Lonely Planet for two decades. Based in articles on Russia, Germany, NYC, Los Angeles, Queenstown, New Zealand for half the year, he runs Melbourne, Bali, Hawaii, Japan and Scotland. A an outdoor activities company and a sake brewery, native New Yorker and naturalised Melburnian, Ali then moonlights overseas for the other half, leading has also lived in Chicago, Prague and England, and tours and writing for Lonely Planet. Craig has has travelled extensively around Europe and North completed a number of adventures in Japan and his America. Ali is on instagram @alilemer. books are available on Amazon. Describing himself as a ‘freelance anything’, Craig has an MBA from the University of Hawai’i and is also a Japanese interpreter, pilot, photographer, hiking guide, tour leader, karate instructor and budding novelist.

HUGH MCNAUGHTAN

A former English lecturer, Hugh swapped grant applications for visa applications, and turned his love of travel intro a full-time thing. Having done a bit of restaurant-reviewing in his home town (Melbourne) he’s now eaten his way across four continents. He’s never happier than when on the road with his two daughters. Except perhaps on the cricket field. OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen OUR Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across WRITERS Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

MARC DI DUCA ANTHONY HAM

A travel author for over a decade, Marc has worked Anthony is a freelance writer and photographer for Lonely Planet in Siberia, Slovakia, Bavaria, who specialises in Spain, East and Southern Africa, England, Ukraine, Austria, Poland, Croatia, Portugal, the Arctic and the Middle East. When he’s not Madeira and on the Trans-Siberian Railway, as well writing for Lonely Planet, Anthony writes about and as writing and updating dozens of guides for other photographs Spain, Africa and the Middle East for publishers. When not on the road, Marc lives near newspapers and magazines in Australia, the UK and Mariánské Láznĕ in the Czech Republic with his wife US. Anthony tweets @AnthonyHamWrite. and two sons.

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