SOUTHERN TANZANIA 2013 by Rondi Salter and Phil Benstead Day One - 15/01/2013 - Dar es Salaam (Kawe) and Bongoyo Island

Having left a cold and dreary UK behind the previous evening, we were welcomed by the sticky heat of Dar. After collecting our baggage we made our way to the Mediterraneo Hotel in Kawe. Phil met us at the hotel and we breakfasted on the seafront overlooking Msasani bay. Phil had arrived the night before and had already seen two species of fruit-bat and a few edible bullfrogs. Morning birds seen flitting around in the pretty gardens had included Zanzibar sombre greenbul, red-fronted tinkerbird and a golden oriole.

The weather and the gods were kind to us in Dar this year. We got exposed mudflats in the morning and a little later on a trip out to Bongoyo Island just offshore. The exposed mudflats visible from the hotel producing our first views of crab plover, 8-9 reasonably approachable individuals. Also present were some common migrant waders and a single Terek sandpiper.

We paddled through bath temperature water out to the speedboat and sped off to the island across a beautifully flat sea. After a round of the ever popular soda Tangawizi (ginger ale) we went for a wander through the islands coral rag thicket ending up at Shark Bay in hot (in both senses of the word) pursuit of a mangrove kingfisher. A mixture of Moray eels, plants such as Pseuderanthemum hildebrandtii (above left), coral rag skinks, butterflies and birds keep us entertained before retreating to the shade for freshly barbequed fish and chips. We were tipped off by a friendly expat that the kingfishers were nesting in a tree near the toilet and opposite a stunning Turraea bush (above right)! Sure enough their stunning red beaks could be seen in a rat hole. The best was yet to come when after lunch a flock of 250 crab plovers invaded the nearby beach as the tide rose pushing them to roost. Phil went down on his knees and shuffled towards them in a photographic act of homage. Superb birds.

We returned slightly overheated and caught up with the others that had opted to have a relaxing afternoon around the hotel.

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Day Two - 16/01/2013 - Transfer to Hondo Hondo, via Mikumi and Kilombero

The 4WDs were loaded up and we left at dawn to miss the nightmare that is Dar rush hour. An early highlight as we made our way out of the coastal region was a single ‘dayglo’ African golden weaver. We had a pit stop at Chalinze (a busy junction where the road goes north towards Arusha and Nairobi) and Phil and others indulged in yummy meat samosas and we stocked up with cashew nuts.

Continuing West the majestic Uluguru mountains came into view. At the base of the northern side of the mountains we had a stop in a sisal plantation (left), which produced plenty of butterflies including citrus swallowtails and yellow and blue pansies.

The drive through Mikumi National Park produced the usual game plus a few things that are harder to see from the main road including a single bushbuck, wildebeest and at least four kudu. Mikumi is noted for its Borassus palms, which share the Swahili name ‘Mikumi’ and from which the park’s name is derived. Mikumi covers an area of 3230 km2 but shares its boundary to the South with the Selous Game Reserve, covering an amazing 54,600 km2, which in turn links to the Udzungwa National Park covering 1990 km2. Between them these protected areas span an altitudinal range from 110m to 2576m, encompassing a huge range of habitats including grassland, miombo woodland, lowland forest, sub-montane and montane forest and is one of the largest protected wilderness areas in the world.

Lunch outside the park in Mikumi Town was enlivened by the presence of a foxy charaxes hanging in the rafters over our heads. The best bit of the day was our usual stop on the bridge over the river deep in the industrial sugar cane plantation near Hondo Hondo, with the majestic back drop of the Udzungwa Mountain range. Here we added many birds to the trip list including African jacana, diderik cuckoo, malachite kingfisher, fan-tailed widowbird, and a splendid singing male Zanzibar red bishop. Best of all a single male Kilombero weaver, busy building a nest for a prospective female. Steve and Phil were kept busy looking at odonates and logged some nice species, a nice way to start the dragonfly list

Raptors started to appear too as we headed for the lodge, with Eurasian marsh harriers being familiar but black-shouldered kite, lizard buzzard and African harrier hawk being a lot more exotic. A few African open-billed storks appeared and purple herons flew past. We freshened up and congregated in the open restaurant as the local trumpeter hornbills were returning to

Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 2 their roosts on the forest edge by camp.

Day Three - 17/01/2013 - Udzungwa Mountains National Park and Kilombero We all met up at a very civilised hour for a slap-up cooked breakfast and then headed en masse to the Park Head Quarters to organise our guides. We split into two teams; Phil’s team heading off to track the habituated Sanje mangabey troupe with their guide Nico, and Rondi to tackle the Sanje Falls trail.

Phil’s Team Phil’s team dropped down off the road, past some houses and gaggles of delightful small kids and out across the paddy-fields. Mascarene rocket frogs occasionally exploded under foot. At this point Phil and Steve had to be quite disciplined not to stop for every dragonfly and flocks of finches taunted the birders as well from the long grass. Soon one of the mangabey trackers joined us here and took us across the fields to the edge of the forest and we thankfully plunged into the shade.

The troupe was quite a way up the slope today, so we got our heads down and walked upwards. Before too long we were stopped and waiting for the mangabeys to move into easy terrain. We did not have to wait long before the first individuals appeared and we had a pleasant half-hour trying to secure photographs of the unconcerned but mostly very active animals that made up this 78-strong group of monkeys.

Job done we dropped back down the hill, stopping for a large bird flock which skirted round us providing views of Livingstone’s turaco (spectacular in flight), as well as smaller flock constituents such as black-throated wattle-eye, black-backed puffback, green-backed woodpecker and square-tailed drongo. At the forest edge we found some great dragonflies including Trithemis aconitum and Phaon iridipennis. The journey past the various small streams that wound their way through the cultivation was always going to take time with a few keen dragonfly people and we saw some great species including a new gomphid for the tour (Paragomphus genei) and great views of Olpogastra lugubris. Roy and Iona turned up the first speckled mousebirds and a nice blue-spotted wood-dove at one point.

At lunch we were joined briefly by a splendid male black emperor, Africa’s largest dragonfly. Afterwards we rounded up our driver and headed out back into the cane-fields for another crack at the excellent small wetland by the bridge. En route we bumped into a pair of African wattled lapwing. The bridge was a different place today. A male little bittern leapt into the air from a well-vegetated ditch on arrival. The wetland proper had a fantastic rufous-bellied heron and at least six squacco herons. Kilombero weavers were very evident with at least four males and two females showing well during our stay. A lesser swamp warbler appeared briefly. Two white- faced whistling-ducks received some attention and we enjoyed finding the familiar wood sandpiper. Another migrant, as the wind picked up startlingly and rain threatened, was a single common swift, sucked up into the huge chattering flock of little swifts overhead. An African marsh harrier flew over high, but the session highlight came when a superb red-necked falcon

Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 3 gave us a couple of high-speed passes before zooming on its way. Rain eventually stopped play and we headed for home to see how the other team had fared walking the trail to the Sanje Falls.

Rondi’s team A short drive to the base of the Sanje trail and then we started to ascend at a casual pace taking in at first the shamba (cultivated gardens) plants such as Verbena, Lantana, Hibiscus and crops of cassava, mango and jackfruit. After a short distance we passed a line of exotic teak trees (which mark the park boundary) and were then into the park proper, with its great diversity of vegetation and welcome shade. The aptly named wait-a-bit bush (Acacia sp.) tempered our pace with its fine hooked thorns. Part way up the trail we came across Nasturtium!? I had never seen this in the park before and after some research it is confirmed as a weed (native to S. America) as we had expected and has been reported to the Park Head Quarters.

Butterflies teased us as they flitted in and out of the dappled sun and we stopped frequently to identify woodland, and higher up, forest trees including the dominant emergent Antiaris toxicaria and giant Parkia filicoidea, the club-shaped flowers stalks of which littered the upper slopes. The highlight of the ascent was an intimate view of an Eastern tree hyrax Dendrohyrax arboreus guarding his tree house. This easily made up for the surprising lack of primates that morning. For those who made it to the top of the waterfall we took in the view out towards the Selous and viewed orchids Cynorkis kirkii and Disperis uzungwae, inconveniently found on a ledge on the other side of the river. En route, Chiromantis (frog) foam-nests were seen positioned strategically above standing pools of water with some tadpoles already present. We then followed the pathfinder Catuna sikorana butterflies to the second waterfall where we saw Saintpaulia ionantha on the shady moss covered cliffs and Impatiens wallerana around the base. The others had descended to the spectacular halfway viewing point – by far the best spot for viewing the falls and enjoying butterflies whilst surrounded by prime forest. On the way down we did finally get views of blue monkey; Oh! AND an elephant shrew (too quick and dark to identify but there are 3 possibilities: chequered, four-toed and grey- faced; the latter endemic to Udzungwa Rhynchocyon udzungwensis). Back at the vehicles and a patiently waiting Saleem we purchased a jackfruit and made our way back to camp for a much-needed COLD beer.

Day Four - 18/01/2013 - Udzungwa Mountains National Park – Sanje and Sonjo trails

Phils team Another day, another trip to see the Sanje mangabey for Phil, this time with the other half of the team. We were more than a little unlucky today and had to walk for 2.5 hours, mostly on elephant trails but occasionally just off-piste in the jungle. En route we were entertained by very little wildlife, although the front markers got lucky with a close red duiker. We heard Angolan black-and-white colobus but had to trudge ever onwards in our quest for the ultimate primate. Eventually just after 1100 we breathed a collective sigh of relief as the first Sanje mangabey

Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 4 appeared in a nearby tree. We spent a short time with them, getting occasional close but fleeting views as the troupe passed by and then we carried on downhill to the lodge. A difficult morning but we got the target animal in the end.

After lunch a reduced team headed out again with Phil to walk a short section of the nearby Sonjo trail. At the start of the trail a few dragonflies were evident including another new gomphid (Crenigomphus hartmanni). Butterflies were a feature with two showy species of Euphaedra and a forest queen being photographed. The large-flowered yellow ginger here (Costus macranthus) was well received. Having ticked off the two waterfalls we headed back picking up an endemic Udzungwa rocket frog for our troubles.

Rondi’s team Back up the Sanje trail with the other half of the group we bumped into a friendly red-capped robin-chat on the path and heard frequent calls of the Eastern nicator. This morning we primates were making up for their dearth the day before. We had wonderful views of Angolan black-and- white colobus and Udzungwa red colobus leaping through the trees and mothers with their babies sat feeding on various fruits and leaves. Eagle-eyed Marg did not miss a single flower. On the lower slopes the lovely pink and yellow ginger Siphonochilus kirkii (rose ginger lily) and red Pentas bussei were common. On the approach to a stand of Tabernaemontana pachysiphon, the scent of which is somewhat heady, we came across a dead Gambian sun squirrel Heliosciurus gambianus - no clues as to why. Back up at the top of the falls we past lovely patches of Begonia oxyloba and were greeted by dozens of forest grass yellow Eurema senegalensis butterflies feeding on the ashes of a dead fire, which then dipersed like confetti when disturbed. Over lunch on the rocks we watched a large crab desperately clinging onto a tree branch in the cascading river trying to save itself from been washed hundreds of metres down a cliff face. Sadly there was nothing we could do and we left it to its fate. On our way rock-hopping over the river to see the orchids (see Roy below) we saw yet more stunning groups of forest grass yellows feeding on damp rocks, joined by a spectacular Emperor swallowtail Papilio ophidocephalus. With a spring in our step, not only did we make it to the second waterfall, but the third too! This third waterfall gives off a blissfully refreshing spray and is arguably the most attractive of the three waterfalls with its single sheer cliff face cloaked in lush vegetation. More lovely primate entertainment on the way back down to the heat of the plains and of course back to camp for the obligatory cold beverage. Steve distinguished himself (and ruined Phil’s day) by finding the stunning Eastern Arc endemic damselfly – Platycypha auripes – along the river.

That evening the moth trap was set up in the clearing near the dining area. This attracted in a good number of sphingids, noctuides, cicadas and micro mantis for inspection and marvel. Some were trimmed with gold, some fluffy, others with transparent wings. The best of the moths was

Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 5 politely named the pheromone distributor, with its bizarre barbed appendage, which circled round and round!

Day Five - 19/01/2013 - to Kisolanza, via Baobab Valley and Isimila An early start saw us on towards the cooler climate of the Southern Highlands. We enjoyed the scenery and spotted our first golden-backed weavers on our way to lunch at Baobab Valley. On arrival at the camp by the Great Ruaha River we were to find more, also here a nice male beautiful sunbird, a pair of eastern paradise- whydahs and a pair of brown parrots. Iona found the best bird though, a fine African finfoot sneaking upriver and hugging the far bank for dear life. The camp area proved excellent for butterflies and we spent some time photographing an obliging foxy charaxes. Gomphids were much in evidence, including the rarely photographed Gomphidia quarrei and Paragomphus sabicus. After a packed lunch and a cold drink we were off again, climbing higher through the Ruaha Gorge and granite boulder strewn scenery into the highlands and a shroud of rain...

By 1500 we had arrived at Isimila and despite the light rain we enjoyed tramping about the stone- age site. The orchids (yellow Platycoryne ambigua, delicate pink and white Disa aconitoides and green Habenaria goetzeana) received their usual adoration and the birders were pleased when Alan announced that we had all just flushed a spotted eagle-owl, it flew to the other side of the gully and perched up for views for a while. Overhead we spotted rock martin and white-headed saw- wing. The area around the buildings at the top of the stairs produced purple grenadier, golden- breasted bunting, cinnamon-breasted rock bunting and red-cheeked cordon-bleu.

That night we dined on lovely fresh produce at Kisolanza farm in the converted mud ruins of an old cowshed and enjoyed the cool evening. Some even took advantage of open fires in their cottages.

Day Six -20/01/2013 - Kisolanza and Sao Hill Marsh Birding just after dawn produced some great views of purple-crested turaco, plus spot-flanked barbet, blackcap, willow warbler and best-of-all some Miombo double-collared sunbirds. After breakfast on the veranda, looking out over a pretty cottage garden, we went for a walk down to the reservoir; botanizing most of the way with attractive species on show such as the yellow orchid Eulophia odontoglossa, bushy bulbine Bulbine abyssinica and ink flower Cycnium adonense. It was quiet for birds with just a brown snake-eagle entertaining us. The dragonflies were good as usual though with some fantastic species spotted including Platycypha, the familiar emperor dragonfly and a few species new for the tour (including Phil’s first Anaciaeshna triangulifera). Some of us had to be dragged away to keep up with our schedule for the day. Walking through the campsite on our way to the cars produced excellent views of a green-capped eromomela.

Next stop was Sao Hill marsh. This proved excellent for birds this year with both montane marsh widowbird and Fulleborn’s longclaw being spotted during the lengthy botanical stop. Orchids

Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 6 numbered twelve, favourites including Platycoryne pervillei, Disa stolzii and Satyrium antherstonii. Orchid species Brachycorythis rhodostachys, Habenaria welwitschii and Liparis nervosa (see below) were among four new records in this locality for the tour. The shocking pink ink flower Cycnium filicalyx found in the boggy areas is also worth a special mention. Of course several dragonflies were photographed and included Agriocnemis pinheyi, ALSO new for the tour!

We drove on through the fertile highlands which are covered in part with Eucalyptus, wattle and pine plantations interspersed with miombo woodland. In the woodlands the most striking and easily identified trees (when in flower!) include Bauhinia petersiana, Markhamea lutea and Acacia senegal. Further on having passed Makambako, the impressive Lugala Escarpment (reaching approx. 2700m), and forming the backbone of Mpanga-Kipengere Game Reserve, came into view. From here the Usangu flats opened out to the north and the Mbeya range came into view to the west. This volcanic mountain range is at the junction of the eastern Gregory Rift and western Albertine Rift valleys. Mbeya town (founded as a gold mining town in the 1920’s and now a growing metropolis and business centre for the southern regions and the neighbouring countries of Malawi, Zambia and Congo) is nestled below Loleza Peak (2656m). Passing through its bustling streets we arrived at Utengule Coffee Lodge by late afternoon. The location is serene with its own nature reserve, up on the hillside.

Brachycorythis rhodostachys Habenaria welwitschii Liparis nervosa

Day Seven - 21/01/2013 - Utengule area With standing orders not to turn up for the pre-breakfast bird walk if it was raining we all guiltily enjoyed a lie-in. The rain unambiguously thundered on the roof from just before dawn until a little after breakfast and then we set out. The weather soon cleared up and we started to get stuck into some great birds.

The gardens of Utengule are wonderful for birds and it took some getting out of them. Baglafecht and red- headed weavers were nest-building. African pied wagtails tripped about on the lawns. Overhead our first mosque swallows appeared. Maggi found our first yellow-fronted tinkerbirds. A village weaver

Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 7 colony was in full swing. A male black cuckooshrike flew quickly through. Nearby we tracked down a superb male African emerald cuckoo, which showed amazingly well (nominated bird of the trip!), we also had brief views of a female. A pair of long-crested eagles sat about allowing us to admire them. A red-necked spurfowl was spotted by the botanists, rather gallingly. Our first sulphur-breasted bush-shrike gave us the run-around but we all eventually saw it. Four hamerkops gave us a flyby. Alan took a vast array of bug photos – sadly few of which we could identify. Striking through the coffee plantations we made our way back round through miombo woodland (displaying some pretty flowers (white trumpets of the ink flower (left), striking orange/red Striga sp. (right) and parrot beaked gladioli Gladiolus dalenii) to the hotel and lunch.

After lunch some of us had a butterfly id workshop on the verandah and then we went for a short drive uphill to Lunji coffee plantation in the shadow of Mbeya Peak at 2565m (left). A Wahlberg’s eagle soared above the farm on arrival and was later joined by another. Here we enjoyed a few new butterflies but the birds really grabbed our attention. The garden of the farmhouse was crammed with birds; Holub’s golden weaver was found for the first time, a small and entertaining group of Retz’s helmetshrikes, we had a brief encounter with a family party of green wood hoopoes and African golden and black-headed orioles were admired. Moving on we walked back down the track; here we found both red-chested and African cuckoo in short order. A fruiting tree produced more orioles, a brown parrot and our first chance to look at the adult violet-backed starling. An African green pigeon zipped past at speed and a groundscraper thrush sang quietly from the top of a tree. Eventually the cars dropped down to pick us up and we headed back to the hotel after an excellent day of birding.

After dinner, looking out over panoramic views across the African Rift towards Zambia and Malawi, Phil went out after nightbirds with Roy and Iona, we heard a close fiery-necked nightjar but could not tempt it past the boundary fence of the hotel and into view. After this short walk, Phil went out for a longer session; bagging a southern white-faced scops-owl and being invited into the neighbouring compound to have a look at the fiery-necked nightjar which sang from wires at close range.

Day Eight - 22/01/2013 - Utengule and Ngozi crater (Mporoto mts)

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A short pre-breakfast walk failed to produce the hoped-for Peter’s twinspot but we did find a pair of lead-coloured flycatchers before breakfast. Afterwards we took the main road towards Malawi, taking in great views of Mt. Rungwe (2960m) on the way. It was here where the new species of primate Rungwecebus kipunji ‘Kipunji’ was discovered in 2005. At the start of the track leading to Ngozi crater road Rondi sorted out the fees and guide whist Phil and others nipped into the small wetland. A quick look revealed more Anax imperator for our dragonfly list.

The Mporoto trail is essentially a botanising day and was quiet for birds, however some managed to see a single Livingstone’s turaco that popped up briefly. The walk weaves steadily through lush vegetation, punctuated by great plants including Impatiens confusa, Impatiens austrotanzanica , two Streptocarpus and two Begonia species and dozens of the splendid shade loving orchid Calanthe sylvatica. Crocosmia aurea and gloriosa superba were also commonly seen. At the top we were rewarded with the spectacular view of the crater-lake (above) from the top (approx. 2600m). Here we had our packed lunch and watched various butterflies and dragonflies float and dart about.

The crater was formed a million years ago, collapsing in on itself and then filling with water. The local Wasafwa people believe the mountain to have magical powers and legend has it that it harbours a rain god.

Back down at the vehicles most of us walked the access track for 90 minutes, things remained quiet on the bird front but the butterflies were excellent and included a number of impressive Charaxes species.

After dinner Roy, Iona and Phil went hunting nightjars again. This time with the ability to access the neighbouring compound we managed to get views of a male fiery-necked nightjar singing and hawking from the top of a tall tree. Result.

Day Nine - 23/01/2013 - Chimala pass and river and on to Matamba The pre-breakfast bird walk once again failed to turn up the much-wanted Peter’s twinspot. C’est la vie. We did not return empty-handed however. First up was a male Cabanis’ bunting singing lustily from a treetop. We also ‘scoped a yellow-crowned canary in the treetops nearby. Chasing the twinspot came to a halt when we heard a Livingstone’s turaco behind us and elected to turn back for it. It eventually showed well and we all finally got views of this fantastic bird. As we yomped back for breakfast we stopped briefly to admire a pair of Klaas’ cuckoo and nearby the male African emerald cuckoo appeared too. Driving up the 50+ hairpin bends above Chimala and through Chimala escarpment Forest Reserve took up the rest of the morning. Flowers and birds were scarce bar one black cuckooshrike. Great views over the Usangu flats made up for the lack of wildlife.

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A lunch stop on the Chimala river produced different orchids to previous years (due to the late rains) including lilac and yellow Brachycorythis pubescens (left) and the unusual brown and green Satyrium volkensii (right) on the rocky hillside by Chimala River. Some good odonates were also recorded, with another Notogomphus zernyi (successfully following on from last year’s exciting record) and an interesting aeshnid (Aeshna rileyi).

We botanized our way to the hotel, stopping frequently en route, and after checking into Mama Eden’s ‘Motel’/Kitulo Gods Garden Hotel we had a relaxing afternoon exploring Matamba village (or napping!).

The village is set in the shadows of Matamba ridge, which forms the north-eastern boundary of Kitulo National Park. A sleepy place where donkeys, goats and wildfowl graze along the wide green verges and locals run small dukas (shops) and vegetable stalls lining the main dirt road.

Day Ten - 24/01/2013 - Kitulo National Park Great be up on the plateau again after a short drive up and over the Northeastern end of Matamba ridge. The end of the earth views en route quite breath-taking! Augur buzzards greeted us on arrival. Whilst the botanists grazed for orchids (right) Phil wandered about checking some flushes and streams for birds and dragonflies. The stream banks produced Cape robin chat and yellow-browed seedeater. Malachite sunbirds were entertaining and both churring and black-lored cisticolas were spotted. A rare blue swallow was also seen flying low and then climbing up into the sky and lost to view. I think most had their heads in the flowers at this point!

We spent most of the day along Njombe Valley enjoying a magical abundance of flowers. The nodding heads of Clematopsis uhehensis (left) is always a favourite, along with canary yellow Moraea tanzanica, pink Impatiens rosulata and purple Commelina kituloensis. The large, green and very frilly orchid Habenaria occlusa has to be the most spectacular but they are so varied it is hard to single them out, however white Habenaria macrura and waxy red Satyrium acutirostrum have to be two of the most memorable and prolific species. Peter was so overwhelmed by the number of orchids he almost gave up!

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A cooked lunch was served up in various hot pots on a bridge overlooking Matamba ridge. Here in the wet flushes by the stream we found dainty Cynorkis acampanoides, Erica whyteana and Xyris obscura. Close by were dozens of the vermillion red Disa stolzii. Further down the valley we stopped at a small waterfall and tracked down the large and very yellow Satyrium sphaeranthum and then further on hundreds of stubby pink Satyrium breve. On the edge of the park, after an exciting river crossing we found tiny Holothrix nyasae (which was missing at Chimala River this year).

Passing through the cattle fields at Kitulo farm we found good numbers of white storks by the roadside (including excitingly one colour-ringed bird that had been ringed 7061 km away in Poland as a nestling in 2011) and a small number of Abdim’s storks.

Day Eleven - 25/01/2013 Kitulo National Park

Another fantastic day amongst the flowers on the plateau. In the morning we wandered up Matamba ridge taking in a striking patch of Kniphofia goetzei (left – by Roy) and several orchids including the gorgeous pink and white spotted Disa ukingensis, tiny yellow Schizochilus sulphurous and green Satyrium johnstonii. The highlight however was the pretty picture (below – by Roy) of hundreds of the range restricted Moraea callisa on the ridge top

Birds were few and far between but Phil found an out-of-range Nyanza swift in amongst a big flock of common swifts and a few pallid harriers and lanners flew by. Peter excelled himself by finding a tiny chameleon (perhaps a juvenile Goetze’s, Chamaeleo goetzi).

Back down from the ridge we had another yummy Mama Eden’s style cooked lunch and then headed off in search of the Denham’s Bustard. Of course we found them in their usual favourite spot sailing through thousands of canary yellow Moraea tanzanica. Such a wonderful sight. This spot is also fantastic for orchids with beautiful patches of white Satyrum longicauda and Satyrium acutirostrum. Carpets of delicate Geranium incanum and white Lobelia angolensis dominate the species assemblage here. Red-winged francolins called all around us.

Sadly I (Rondi) had to point out the evidence of orchid tuber (chikanda) digging, which is all too common in the highlands these days. The trade is illegal and escalating due to the high price of the tubers and therefore threatening populations of Disa, Satyrium and Habenaria orchids. These tubers mostly make there way to Zambia where they are sold as a delicacy. Many harvesters are arrested every year in the park but because the penalty is so meagre people just continue to reoffend.

Driving out we stopped as usual for raptors

Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 11 including a fine male pallid harrier and to admire the vista on the shoulder of Matamba ridge.

Day Twelve - 26/01/2013 - Kimani Falls and on to Kisolanza After breakfast we made our way down off the plateau enjoying spectacular views over the Mpanga-Kipengere Game Reserve towards Lugala escarpment. At the top of the scarp we stopped to try and get good views of an energetic pair of great sparrowhawks but failed. The drive down off the plateau was fairly quiet for birds but the power-line clearing at the start of the Kimani Falls track produced some great species. Blue-cheeked bee-eaters sat on the wires. Each tree had a different bird sitting atop it, an African cuckoo, a yellow bishop and best-of-all a Reichard’s seedeater. On the grazed lawn under the wires was a mixed flock of yellow-fronted canaries and yellow-rumped seedeaters. A little further on we found a nice male western violet- backed sunbird and then the heat started and the birds faded into the background and we chased butterflies instead.

The drive to Kimani winds through some lovely miombo woodland (part of Mpanga Kipengere Game Reserve), the most common species including Brachystegia spp., Afzelia quanzensis and Pterocarpus angolensi. Due to the recent rains the grass was a stunning vivid green and butterflies and dragonflies filled the air. We had lunch at the falls (left) and then a short walk to its base (past the smelly Nile monitor’s cave).

En route back to Kisolanza we had a brief toilet stop in some scrubby grassland and managed to stumble across two more orchid species (both new for the tour) – stumpy spurred and white Satyrium carsonii and the red compact flowered Satyrium coriophoroides.

Back at the comfort of the farm Phil and others had a quick walk around the Kisolanza campsite and found a number of tree pipits and good views of white-browed scrub-robin. Dinner was delicious as usual (and we were joined by Rondi’s friend Claire and her family), then most retired early to bed to make the most of those lovely rooms.

Day Thirteen - 27/01/2013 - Kisolanza and Mikumi A short pre-breakfast birding walk produced white-browed scrub-robin and tree pipit. Then it was into the car for the long drive to Mikumi. En route more new birds were spotted; southern red bishop, steel-blue whydah and white-rumped swift. The resident and arrogant baboons of Baobab valley walked nonchalantly across the road in front of us and scavenged by the roadside.

After checking into Vuma Hills tented camp, well-positioned with a view over the Rubeho mountains and savannah plains, we had a buffet lunch and then headed out in the late afternoon for a game drive around the park. Along the camp access track we bumped into more lilac- breasted and broad-billed rollers. Crossing the road we entered the park through the gate, it seemed dry and devoid of mammals but we soon started to find things. Warthogs squared up to our vehicles. Distant herds of elephants were watched, all around them small groups of impala

Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 12 and zebra and the occasional giraffe. Birds appeared too, a male Montagu’s harrier was a welcome addition to the list and we also found our first long-tailed fiscal and northern pied babbler. Crowned lapwings became commonplace. A fine black-bellied bustard was also seen stalking the grassland.

The easy highlight of the drive soon came when Saleem spotted a leopard basking in the late sun on a large tree limb, We spent some time trying to put together some photographs of this obliging beast. Whilst manoeuvering for light we were astonished to find a large male lion sitting in the middle of a roadside bush, we were spoilt for choice. Eventually we tore ourselves away and checked out the hippo pool. Hippos were much in evidence, as were a number of crocodiles. Walking around the pool produced some great waders, including greenshank, wood and green sandpiper, three-banded plover and blacksmith plover.

Meanwhile Peter and Maggie enjoyed an afternoon at the camp. Peter made friends with a small- eared galago, hand feeding it from the balcony, and a few more butterflies were added to the list.

Later that evening everyone got to enjoy the cheeky galagos wandering nonchalantly around the balustrades and later honey badgers and other seemingly resident nocturnal wildlife included an African palm civet. Some even got a glimpse of a porcupine!

Day Fourteen - 28/01/2013 - Mikumi and on to Dar

Our early morning and pre-breakfast game drive was very enjoyable. Birding is always better in the cooler mornings and we caught up with many of the species that were conspicuously absent yesterday. Just past the gate we drove into a waterhole that produced a flock of over 50 collared pratincoles and a huge ugly marabou stork. A confiding pair of white-faced whistling ducks decided to join us. Nearby a pair of grey kestrel and a haughty martial eagle checked us out.

Further on a Eurasian hobby perched up by the track. A herd of elephants approached us closely, a young male sniffing the wheel-arch of Phil’s 4WD before reeling off in disgust. A huge bull eland wandered about on its own. Nearby a small wet ditch had attracted both buffalo and wooly-necked stork, the former coated with many yellow-billed oxpeckers and a few red-billed too. A big surprise was a black coucal sitting out in the open. Huge herds of impala included another solitary marabou stork and a large gang of splendidly vocal southern ground-hornbills. Driving back for breakfast we stopped for our last new bird a good-looking white-browed sparrow-weaver.

We returned to camp for a very welcome late breakfast and then we got on our way for the final leg of our journey back towards Dar es Salaam. We lunched at Morogoro town and after getting to the outskirts of Dar we took the necessary short cut along dirt roads through pleasant suburbs and across to the Mediterraneo. This route takes you up to higher ground providing good views of the city and coastline.

Back at the hotel we had our last meal together and Phil disappeared off to get his evening KLM flight. It was good to hear the sound of the sea again and enjoy that lovely warm breeze.

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Day Fifteen - 29/01/2013 – Dar - London

Pre-dawn Rondi escorted the group to the airport for the early BA flight.

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Systematic List Number 1 Mammals

Order and nomenclature follow Kingdon (1997) The Kingdon field guide to African mammals. Although I have changed the vernacular name of Iringa red colobus!

Elephant shrew sp Rhynchocyon sp view to brief for identification of species. Sanje trail Udzungwa red colobus Piliocolobus gordonorum Seen on both days at Udzungwa. Best views and some spectacular leaps came on the second day in the Hondo Hondo clearing. Angolan black-and-white Colobus angolensis Great views at Udzungwa for the second Sanje Falls colobus expedition, others heard there. Also heard at Mporoto. A poor showing with some of us returning home empty-handed. Yellow baboon Papio cynocephalus Widespread in lowlands. Sanje mangabey Cercocebus sanjei Udzungwa – both expeditions to see this over the two days were successful. It took 45 minutes the first time and a gruelling 2.5 hours on the second. Close views obtained on both occasions. Blue monkey Cercopithecus mitis Showed well at Udzungwa this year with a group seen well on the trail to Sanje Falls and another perforning for most of the day around the Hondo Hondo clearing. Vervet monkey Chlorocebus aethiops Baobab Valley, Isimila and Mikumi. Small-eared greater Otolemur garnetti Vuma Hills (Mikumi) – superb views of tame galago individuals in the restaurant here. Alos heard at Kisolanza. Galago sp. Galagoides sp. Heard nightly at Hondo Hondo (Udzungwa), eyeshine seen here was this species too. Straw-coloured fruit bat Eidolon helvum Feeding at night in the fruiting trees at the Mediterraneo. an epauletted fruit bat Epomophorus sp. Feeding at night in the fruiting trees at the Mediterraneo. Scrub hare Lepus saxatilis A few at Kitulo. Squirrel sp. Paraxerus sp. A squirrel seen at Hondo Hondo, was seen too briefly to identify. [Blesmol sp.] Bathyergidae Plenty of ‘mole-hill’ evidence of the presence of these at Kitulo. Probably a Cryptomys. Crested porcupine Hystrix cristata A huge individual from the balcony of the restaurant at Vuma Hills (Mikumi) after dinner. Black-backed jackal Canis mesomelas Two or three at Mikumi. Ratel Melivora capensis Three ferocious and noisy individuals from the balcony of the Vuma Hills restaurant (Mikumi). Banded mongoose Mungos mungo One briefly at Hondo Hondo at lunchtime on the first day. [a genet] Genetta sp. A road-killed individual near Mikumi. A live one at Vuma Hills (Mikumi). African civet Civettictis civeta Two at the Vuma Hills restaurant during dinner (Mikumi). Leopard Panthera pardus Superb encounter on the first game drive at Mikumi. Lion Panthera leo A very close male on the first game drive at Mikumi.

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African elephant Loxodonta africana Mikumi – good numbers daily. Sign at Udzungwa in the forest. Common zebra Equus quagga Mikumi. Hippopotamus Hippopotamus amphibius Mikumi. East African tree hyrax Dendrohyrax validus One seen well on the first Sanje Falls expedition. Common warthog Phacochoerus africanus Mikumi. Giraffe Giraffa camelopardis Mikumi. African buffalo Syncerus caffer Mikumi. Bushbuck Tragelaphus scriptus One on the first crossing of Mikumi on Day 2. Bush duiker Sylvicapra grimmia One or two at Kitulo NP. Natal red duiker Cephalophus natalensis Peter and Maggi saw one on the second mangabey expedition near Hondo Hondo. reedbuck sp. Redunca A few at Mikumi. redunca/arundinum Eland Taurotragus oryx Just one, on the last drive in Mikumi. Greater kudu Tragelephas strepsiceros At least four on the first transit through Mikumi. Impala Aepyceros melampus Many at Mikumi. Wildebeest Connochaetes taurinus Mikumi – small scattered herds and individuals.

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Systematic List Number 2 Birds

Order and nomenclature follow Stevenson and Fanshawe (2002) Field guide to the birds of East Africa.

Long-tailed cormorant Phalacrocorax africanus Widespread wetland species, first noted on the coast. Little bittern Ixobrychus minutus One at the bridge in the sugar cane fields near Hondo Hondo (Udzungwa). Cattle egret Bubulcus ibis Widespread. Rufous-bellied heron Ardeola rufiventris One at the bridge in the sugar cane fields near Hondo Hondo (Udzungwa). Squacco heron Ardeola ralloides Six at the bridge in the sugar cane fields near Hondo Hondo (Udzungwa). Great egret Egretta alba Dar. Dimorphic egret Egretta dimorpha Dar. This species is not recognised by many authorities and is usually lumped with little egret. Intermediate egret Mesophoyx intermedia Mikumi and Kisolanza. Purple heron Ardea purpurea Kilombero valley sugar cane fields. Grey heron Ardea cinerea Dar and Mikumi. Black-headed heron Ardea melanocephala Widespread, even some stalking the flower-rich grassland at Kitulo NP. Hamerkop Scopus umbretta Scattered records throughout, but none seen on the ground! White stork Ciconia ciconia Single in the cane-fields in the Kilombero valley. Two thermalling between Mbeya and Chimala. 60+ in the pastures bordering Kitulo NP on the first day there (including a Polish colour-ringed individual). Abdim’s stork Ciconia abdimii A few in the pastures bordering Kitulo NP on the first day there. Wooly-necked stork Ciconia episcopus A few at Mikumi. African open-billed stork Anastomus lamelligerus A few around Hondo Hondo and the canefields nearby. Yellow-billed stork Mycteria ibis A few along the coast at Dar on Day 1. Marabou stork Leptotilus crumeniferus Two at Mikumi. Sacred ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus Small numbers along the coast at Dar. Hadada ibis Bostrychia hagedash One for Phil only, flushed from a tree in the garden of the hotel in Dar whilst spotlighting for fruit-bats before the group arrived. Three flying upriver at Baobab Valley later. African spoonbill Platalea alba One feeding out on the mudflats at low tide at Dar. Greater flamingo Phoenicopterus ruber PB only. About a dozen flew north past the hotel at dawn on Day 1. Egyptian goose Alopochen aegyptiacus A pair with young at Mikumi. Knob-billed duck Sarkidiornis melanotus Single at Mikumi on the first drive through. Another pair at Mikumi on the second game drive. White-faced whistling-duck Dendrocygna viduata Two in the cane-fields in the Kilombero valley on two dates. Another two in Mikumi.

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Black kite Milvus migrans Widespread in small numbers, but mostly encountered between Mikumi and Dar. Black-shouldered kite Elanus caeruleus Small numbers seen, mostly whilst travelling. One at Kitulo. African fish-eagle Haliaeetus vocifer An adult, a long way offshore on the first morning (Dar). Another in Baobab Valley. Palmnut vulture Gypohierax angolensis Two in Mikumi. African white-backed Gyps africanus A few in Mikumi. vulture Brown snake-eagle Circaetus cinereus One at Kisolanza. African marsh harrier Circus ranivorus Single in the cane-fields in the Kilombero valley. Eurasian marsh harrier Circus aeruginosus Noted near the small wetland area in the cane- fields near Hondo Hondo (Udzungwa) and at Kisolanza. One at Kitulo. Montagu’s harrier Circus pygargus At least one adult male at Mikumi. Pallid harrier Circus macrourus Several females on the Kitulo plateau on the first day. A male pleasingly the next day. Lizard buzzard Kaupifalco One in the cane-fields in the Kilombero Valley. monogrammicus African goshawk Accipiter tachiro Single male briefly perched on the edge of the Hondo Hondo clearing one morning. Great sparrowhawk Accipiter melanoleucos Two below Mtamaba on the drive to the Kimani Falls track. African harrier-hawk Polyboroides typus One in the cane-fields in the Kilombero Valley and a pair at Kisolanza. Augur buzzard Buteo augur Small numbers on the Kitulo plateau. Common buzzard Buteo buteo Noted on seven days in the highlands. Wahlberg’s eagle Aquila wahlbergi A pair above Utengule, another briefly above Matamba. Bataleur Terathopius ecaudatus Common at Mikumi and a few either side along the main road. Long-crested eagle Lophaetus occipitalis Single at Hondo Hondo. A regular pair at Utengule. Martial eagle Polemaetus bellicosus Immature bird at Mikumi on second game drive. Eurasian kestrel Falco tinnunculus At least three at Mikumi. Grey kestrel Falco ardosiacus Pair inside Mikumi. Eurasian hobby Falco subbuteo One at Mikumi. Red-necked falcon Falco chicquera Superb encounter on our second trip out to the cane-fields in the Kilombero valley. Lanner falcon Falco biarmicus The most common falcon, singles and pairs daily in the highlands. Helmeted guineafowl Numida meleagris A few recorded at Udzungwa. Common at Mikumi on the second visit. [Crested guineafowl] Guttera pucherani Feathers found along the Sonjo trail (Udzungwa). Red-winged francolin Francolinus levaillantii A few seen at Kitulo. Many calling at the bustard site on the last afternoon there. Red-necked spurfowl Francolinus afer Two at Utengule. Common at Mikumi. Common quail Coturnix coturnix Singing birds commonly heard on the Kitulo plateau. Many flushed underfoot there. African finfoot Podica senegalensis One along the Ruaha river in Baobab valley.

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Denham’s bustard Neotis denhami Three birds at Kitulo on the evening of the first day and again the next day. Black-bellied bustard Eupodotis melanogaster Just two at Mikumi this year. African jacana Actophilornis africanus Two in the small wetland area in the cane-fields near Hondo Hondo (Udzungwa). One seen on the last day on a roadside pond as we trundled to Dar. Crab plover Dromas ardeola About ten feeding on the mudflats form the hotel in Dar and an amazing 250+ in the high tide roost on Bongoyo island later in the day. Water thick-knee Burhinus vermiculatus At least 50 at the hippo pool at Mikumi and more in the park the next day. Collared pratincole Glareola pratincola At least 50 roosting in the park on the second visit. Blacksmith lapwing Vanellus armatus Small numbers at Mikumi on second visit. African wattled lapwing Vanellus senegallus Two in the cane-fields near Hondo Hondo (Udzungwa). Crowned lapwing Vanellus coronatus Small numbers at Mikumi. Three-banded plover Charadrius tricollaris A few around the hippo pool at Mikumi on the second visit. Common ringed plover Charadrius hiaticula Small numbers along the coast at Dar. Grey plover Pluvialis squatarola Common along the coast at Dar. Common sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Widespread. Wood sandpiper Tringa glareola Single in cane fields near Hondo Hondo (Udzungwa). Small numbers at Mikumi. Green sandpiper Tringa ochropus A few at Mikumi. Terek sandpiper Xenus cinereus Just one feeding quietly around the tidal pools offshore at low-tide on Day 1 (Dar). Common greenshank Tringa nebularia A few at Dar and one at the hippo pool at Dar. Little stint Calidris minuta A few flocks along the coast at Dar. Temminck’s stint Calidris temmincki Just one briefly in flight along the coast at Dar. A vagrant? Curlew sandpiper Calidris ferruginea Small numbers along the coast at Dar. Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus A few along the beach at Dar. Heuglin’s gull Larus heuglini Small numbers along beach at Dar. Sooty gull Larus hemprichii Small numbers along the coast at Dar. Gull-billed tern Gelochelidon niloticus Two along the beach at Dar. Lesser crested tern Sterna bengalensis Small numbers along the beach at Dar and one out on Bongoyo island. Greater crested tern Sterna bergii One or two along the beach at Dar. Common tern Sterna hirundo Small numbers along the beach at Dar. Saunder’s tern Sterna saundersi Two or three along the beach at Dar. White-winged tern Chlidonias leucopterus Small numbers along the beach at Dar. African green pigeon Treron calva One seen above Utengule. Speckled pigeon Columba guinea Two in Mbeya. Feral pigeon Columba livia Small numbers in towns. Emerald-spotted wood- Turtur chalcospilos Kisolanza, Utengule. dove Blue-spotted wood-dove Turtur afer Only at Hondo Hondo (Udzungwa). Tambourine dove Turtur tympanistria One at Utengule. Dusky turtle dove Streptopelia lugens Singles in the canefields near Hondo Hondo and Kisolanza. Ring-necked dove Streptopelia capicola Widespread.

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Red-eyed dove Streptopelia semitorquata Widespread, frequently heard in the lowlands. Laughing dove Streptopelia senegalensis One at Utengule and another along the Kimani Falls track. Brown parrot Poicephalus meyeri Two in the Baobab Valley and at least one above Utengule. Brown-headed parrot Poicephalus cryptoxanthus An active and noisy pair at Mikumi on the first game drive. Purple-crested turaco Tauraco porphyreolophus Two seen well at Kisolanza on the first visit. Livingstone’s turaco Tauraco livingstonii Two or three seen on the first full day at Udzungwa by the mangabey team. Another seen briefly by some of us at Mporoto and finally one that performed well for those-that-cared on the last pre-breakfast walk at Utengule. Bare-faced go-away-bird Corythaixoides personatus One flew in front of one of the cars en route to Kisolanza the second time. Black-and-white cuckoo Oxylophus jacobinus Single as we drove away from Utengule for the last time. [Black cuckoo] Cuculus clamosus Single male singing along the Kimani Falls track. African cuckoo Cuculus gularis Single second-year bird seen well above Utengule. Red-chested cuckoo Cuculus solitarius One seen above Utengule, others heard there. Diederik cuckoo Chrysococcyx caprius A male seen well at the small wetland area in the cane-fields near Hondo Hondo (Udzungwa). Others heard elsewhere. Klaas’s cuckoo Chrysococcyx klaas A pair seen very well at Utengule. A few males thereafter. African emerald cuckoo Chrysococcyx cupreus A pair seen well at Utengule on the first day and the male showing well again on the last morning. White-browed coucal Centropus superciliosus Widespread. Black coucal Centropus grillii One in normal rank grassland at Mikumi was a surprise. [African scops-owl] Otus senegalensis One singing at Kisolanza on the second visit. White-faced scops-owl Ptilopsis granti Single seen well at Utengule. Spotted eagle-owl Bubo africanus An excellent observation during the day at Isimila. Fiery-necked nightjar Caprimulgus pectoralis Single male seen well at Utengule on two nights. One singing at Kisolanza on the second visit. Little swift Apus affinis Widespread. White-rumped swift Apus caffer A few between Mbeya and Mikumi. Eurasian swift Apus apus One seen well at the small wetland area in the cane-fields near Hondo Hondo (Udzungwa). One in the crater at Mporoto. Daily in variable numbers at Kitulo. Nyanza swift Apus niansae A single bird feeding high above the ridge on the second day at Kitulo in the company of over 100 Eurasian swifts. An unusual record in southern Tanzania but this species does wander. African palm swift Cypsiurus parvus Widespread. Speckled mousebird Colius striatus Frequently encountered. Striped kingfisher Halcyon chelicuti Small numbers in the cane-fields near Hondo Hondo. One above Utengule. Brown-hooded kingfisher Halcyon albiventris Small numbers in the cane-fields near Hondo Hondo. Also above Utengule.

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Mangrove kingfisher Halcyon senegaloides One seen well at Bongoyo Island on the first day, others heard there. Malachite kingfisher Alcedo cristata Common along drainage channels in the cane fields at Hondo Hondo (Udzungwa). Little bee-eater Merops pusillus Small numbers at Kisolanza, Chimala, along the track into Kimani Falls and at Mikumi. White-throated bee-eater Merops albicollis A few hawking form tall trees around the Hondo Hondo clearing on the second day. European bee-eater Merops apiaster Widespread and excellent. Blue-cheeked bee-eater Merops persicus Two or three hawking from the trees along the coast and a small flock along the powerlines at the start of the Kimani Falls track. Broad-billed roller Eurystomus glaucurus Scattered records. Lilac-breasted roller Coracias caudata An obliging individual at the Chalinze comfort stop on Day 2. Thereafter small numbers whilst travelling mostly but common in Mikumi. European roller Coracias garrulus Two in Mikumi. Green wood-hoopoe Phoeniculus purpureus Party of four above Utengule. Red-billed hornbill Tockus erythrorhynchus At least one along the Kimani Falls track. Split in Clements as Tanzanian red-billed hornbill Tockus ruahae. African grey hornbill Tockus nasutus Common at Mikumi. Crowned hornbill Tockus alboterminatus Good numbers around Hondo Hondo (Udzungwa). Two birds at Utengule and heard and glimpsed at Mikumi. Trumpeter hornbill Ceratogymna bucinator Udzungwa, where common and vocal. Two at Matamba. [Silvery-cheeked hornbill] Ceratogymna brevis Heard along the Sanje Falls trail. Southern ground-hornbill Bucorvus leadbeateri Several large groups on our second game drive at Mikumi. [Yellow-rumped tinkerbird] Pogoniulus bilineatus Heard at Udzungwa. Yellow-fronted tinkerbird Pogoniulus chrysoconus A few daily at Utengule. Red-fronted tinkerbird Pogoniulus pusillus Only in the hotel garden in Dar on the first day. Spot-flanked barbet Tricholaema lachrymosa Kisolanza and Utengule. Black-collared barbet Lybius torquatus Two or three daily at Utengule. Greater honeyguide Indicator indicator Single at Utengule. Lesser honeyguide Indicator minor One seen flying in front of one of the vehicles between Matamba and Kimani Falls. Green-backed woodpecker Campethera cailliautii One in a canopy flock whilst searching out the Sanje mangabeys for the first time at Hondo Hondo. Rufous-naped lark Mirafra africana Kitulo – seen a few times in flight but never seen on the ground. Rock martin Hirundo fuligula Isimila and Utengule. Banded martin Riparia cincta Single at Kitulo on the second day. Common house martin Delichon urbica Small numbers at Kitulo, mixed in with Eurasian swifts. Mosque swallow Hirundo senegalensis A few at Utengule. Red-rumped swallow Hirundo daurica A few at Kitulo. Lesser striped swallow Hirundo abyssinica Widespread. Barn swallow Hirundo rustica Widespread.

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Angola swallow Hirundo angolensis A few seen whilst travelling but surprisingly not encountered whilst birding. Wire-tailed swallow Hirundo smithi Occasionally encountered. Blue swallow Hirundo atrocaerulea One or two seen at Kitulo. White-headed saw-wing Psalidoprocne albiceps One or two at Isimila. One high on a ridge at Kitulo was a surprise. Grey-rumped swallow Pseudhirundo griseopyga A few at Kisolanza. African pied wagtail Motacilla aguimp Pair in the cane-fields at Hondo Hondo (Udzungwa). Sometimes seen in transit. Common at Utengule. Yellow wagtail Motacilla flava Single in the cane-fields of the Kilombero valley. Mountain wagtail Motacilla clara Single at Sanje Falls (Udzungwa). Yellow-throated longclaw Macronyx croceus Common at Mikumi on last day. Fuelleborn’s longclaw Macronyx fuellebornii At least four at Sao Hill Marsh. Several more daily at Kitulo. Grassland pipit Anthus cinnamomeus Single in the cane-fields at Hondo Hondo (Udzungwa). Commonly encountered at Kitulo. Tree pipit Anthus trivialis Two on the second visit to Kisolanza. Black cuckoo-shrike Campephaga flava Single males at Utengule on two dates. Another on the windy road above Chimala. Common bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus Widespread. Zanzibar sombre greenbul Andropadus importunus Dar es Salaam – several in the hotel garden. Cape robin-chat Cossypha caffra Small numbers in thick streamside vegetation at Kitulo. White-browed robin-chat Cossypha heuglini Widespread. Red-capped robin-chat Cossypha natalensis One seen on the Sanje Falls trail. Groundscraper thrush Psophocichla litsipsirupa One above Utengule. African stonechat Saxicola torquata Kisolanza. Thrush nightingale Luscinia luscinia One at Utengule. White-browed scrub-robin Cercotrichas leucophrys A few at Kisolanza. Familiar chat Cercomela familiaris One at Utengule. Dark-capped yellow Chloropeta natalensis Single singing bird at Kitulo. The nominate race is warbler very different from the more widespread ‘dark- capped’ race. Lesser swamp warbler Acrocephalus gracilirostris Noted in the small wetland area in the cane-fields near Hondo Hondo (Udzungwa). Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla One at Kisolanza. Garden warbler Sylvia borin One at Utengule. [Common whitethroat] Sylvia communis Heard at Kisolanza. Willow warbler Phylloscopus trochilus Small numbers recorded in the highlands. Red-faced crombec Sylvietta whytii One at Utengule. Green-capped eromomela Eremomela scotops Single in the grounds at Kisolanza. [Zitting cisticola] Cisticola juncidis Heard somewhere between Dar and Hondo Hondo! Wing-snapping cisticola Cisticola ayresii Kitulo – the display of this diminutive species provided the soundtrack to our visits to the plateau. Croaking cisticola Cisticola natalensis A few at Mikumi. Rattling cisticola Cisticola chiniana Kisolanza. Churring cisticola Cisticola njombe Numbe Valley (Kitulo) and more the next day. [Winding cisticola] Cisticola galactotes Heard only at the cane-fields near Hondo Hondo.

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Black-lored cisticola Cisticola nigriloris Pair at Kitulo. Siffling cisticola Cisticola brachypterus One inconspicuous bird at Isimila stone age site. Red-winged warbler Heliolais erythroptera One at Kisolanza. Tawny-flanked prinia Prinia subflava Widespread. Grey-backed camaroptera Camaroptera brachyura Dar. Yellow-breasted apalis Apalis flavida Kisolanza and Utengule. African grey flycatcher Bradornis microrhynchus Isimila stone age site and Kisolanza. Spotted flycatcher Muscicapa striata Small numbers in the hotel garden at Dar and out on Bongoyo island on day 1. Thereafter noted occasionally. Lead-coloured flycatcher Myioparus plumbeus Pair at Utengule. Black-throated wattle-eye Platysteira peltata One in a canopy flock whilst searching for the Sanje mangabey. African paradise-flycatcher Terpsiphone viridis Widespread. Northern pied babbler Turdoides hypoleuca Always a surprise at Mikumi (not well mapped in Stevenson & Fanshawe). Yellow white-eye Zosterops senegalensis Kisolanza and Utengule. Malachite sunbird Nectarinia famosa Common at Kitulo. Eastern double-collared Cinnyris mediocris Several on the way up to the Kitulo plateau on the sunbird first day there. Miombo double-collared Cinnyris manoensis Several in a flowering eucalypt at Kisolanza. sunbird Beautiful sunbird Cinnyris pulchellus One at Baobab Valley. Variable sunbird Cinnyris venustus Utengule. Scarlet-chested sunbird Chalcomitra senegalensis Utengule and Mikumi. Collared sunbird Hedydipna collaris Widespread. Western violet-backed Anthreptes longuemarei Single male along the Kimani Falls track. sunbird Common fiscal Lanius collaris One near Mbeya and a few seen whilst travelling near Kisolanza. Long-tailed fiscal Lanius cabanisi Common at Mikumi. Red-backed shrike Lanius collurio One male at Mikumi. Tropical boubou Laniarius aethiopicus Widespread. [Brubru] Nilaus afer Heard only at Kisolanza. Black-backed puffback Dryoscopus cubla Widespread. Brown-crowned tchagra Tchagra australis Utengule. Sulphur-breasted bush- Malaconotus Several seen at Utengule and Kisolanza this year. shrike sulphureopectus Retz’s helmetshrike Prionops retzii Small group above Utengule. Fork-tailed drongo Dicrurus adsimilis Utengule. Square-tailed drongo Dicrurus ludwigi Two or three in a canopy flock on the first day in the Udzungwa Mtns. House crow Corvus splendens This recently arrived species is the scourge of the coast, less common inland. Pied crow Corvus alba Mostly inland, where found in small numbers throughout. White-naped raven Corvus albicollis Several on the wooded slopes en route to the hills and back. African golden oriole Oriolus auratus Utengule. Eurasian golden oriole Oriolus oriolus One in the hotel garden at Dar. African black-headed oriole Oriolus larvatus One or two above Utengule.

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Yellow-billed oxpecker Buphagus africanus Mikumi (common). Red-billed oxpecker Buphagus Mikumi (one or two only). erythrorhynchus Greater blue-eared starling Lamprotornis chalybeus Widespread, mostly seen whilst travelling. Violet-backed starling Cinnyricinclus leucogaster First seen above Utengule, others along the Kimani Falls track. Superb starling Lamprotornis superbus Iringa, near Mbeya and Mikumi. House sparrow Passer domesticus Widespread. Grey-headed sparrow Passer griseus Widespread. White-browed sparrow- Plocepasser mahali A few at Mikumi. weaver Black-headed weaver Ploceus cucullatus Hondo Hondo and Utengule. Baglafecht weaver Ploceus baglafecht Utengule and Kitulo. Chestnut weaver Ploceus rubiginosus One at Utengule. Golden-backed weaver Ploceus jacksoni Two males seen well at Baobab Valley lunch stop. Kilombero weaver Ploceus burnieri Small numbers in the small wetland area in the cane-fields near Hondo Hondo (Udzungwa). Holub’s golden weaver Ploceus xanthops A few above Utengule on the first day there and also a few down by the river on the last morning. African golden weaver Ploceus subaureus Two males seen between Dar and Chalinze on Day 2. Dark-backed weaver Ploceus bicolor Peter and Maggi saw this whilst chasing Sanje mangabeys at Udzungwa. Red-headed weaver Anaplectes rubriceps Utengule. Red-collared widowbird Euplectes ardens Only seen in transit near Mbeya. Fan-tailed widowbird Euplectes axillaris Common in wet grassland around Hondo Hondo (Udzungwa). Montane marsh widowbird Euplectes psammocromius A single splendid male bird at Sao Hill Marsh this year. Also many males in full breeding plumage and displaying at Kitulo. Yellow bishop Euplectes capensis One seen whilst driving and another under the powerlines at the start of the Kimani Falls track. Southern red bishop Euplectes orix Two near the Iringa wetland on the way back to Dar. Zanzibar red bishop Euplectes nigroventris Widespread at lowland sites. Stunning bird. Green-winged pytilia Pytilia melba Iona bagged one on day 2 in the sizal plantation. Small numbers at Utengule. Red-cheeked cordon-bleu Uraeginthus bengalus Isimila stone age site and Kisolanza. Blue-capped cordon-bleu Uraeginthus Only seen on the hotel garden in Dar. cyanocephalus Purple grenadier Uraeginthus Two birds at Isimila. ianthinogaster Red-billed firefinch Lagonosticta senegala Dar – garden bird. Widespread thereafter. African firefinch Lagonosticta rubricata Single male at Utengule. Yellow-bellied waxbill Estrilda quartinia Several at Kitulo NP. Common waxbill Estrilda astrild Small numbers in the Sanje area and at Kisolanza. Common at Kitulo NP. African quailfinch Ortygospiza atricollis Seven overhead during lunch on the first day at Kitulo. Bronze mannikin Lonchura cucullata Widespread. Eastern paradise-whydah Vidua paradisaea A pair at Baobab Valley.

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Pin-tailed whydah Vidua macroura Small numbers throughout. Steel-blue whydah Vidua hypocherina Single noted in transit near Kisolanza. Yellow-fronted canary Serinus mozambicus Utengule. Yellow-crowned canary Serinus canicollis At least one at Utengule on the last morning. East African citril Serinus hypostictus Small numbers daily at Kitulo NP. Yellow-rumped seedeater Serinus reichenowi Several seen under the powerlines at the start of the track to Kimani Falls. Yellow-browed seedeater Serinus whytii Several in Numbe Valley (Kitulo). Stripe-breasted seedeater Serinus reichardi One under the powerlines at the start of the Kimani Falls track. Kipengere seedeater Serinus melanochrous We were teased by one on the track up to Mporoto crater, only Peter saw it well. Cinnamon-breasted rock Emberiza tahapisi Several at Isimila stone age site and one at Kitulo. bunting Golden-breasted bunting Emberiza flaviventris Single at Isimila stone age site and another along the Kimani Falls track. Cabanis’ bunting Emberiza cabanisi Utengule – an adult male singing from a treetop on the last morning.

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Systematic List Number 3 Odonata

Vagrant emperor Anax ephippiger A few flying in the clearing at Hondo Hondo. Others elsewhere perhaps. Emperor Anax imperator Several at Kisolanza and the wetland at the start of the track to Mporoto crater trail. Black emperor Anax tristis Single male cruising around the restaurant at Hondo Hondo on two days (Udzungwa). Spectacular. Another male at dusk at Utengule. Riley’s hawker Aeshna rileyi Resting individual photographed on the Chimala river en route to Matamba (Kitulo). Perhaps an egg- laying female too the next day on the plateau. Sometimes included in the genus Pinheyschna. Evening hawker Anaciaeschna triangulifera One or two at Kisolanza this year. Common tiger Ictinogomphus ferox Several in the cultivated valley en route to the habituated mangabeys near Sanje. Quarre’s tiger Gomphidia quarrei A few at Baobab Valley. Clubbed talontail Crenigomphus hartmanni A female by the bridge over the Sonjo River (Sanje). Corkscrew hooktail Paragomphus elpidius Single female at Baobab Valley. Green hooktail Paragomphus genei Single male photographed along a small sandy stream in the cultivated valley en route to the habituated mangabeys near Sanje. Clubbed hooktail Paragomphus sabicus A few at Baobab Valley. Zerny’s yellowjack Notogomphus zernyi Teneral individual on the Chimala river en route to Matamba (Kitulo). A poorly-known species discovered at this location last year. Another at nearby Kitulo the next day. Grizzled pintail Acisoma panorpoides Commonly encountered in the better wetlands of the cane-fields near Hondo Hondo this year. Banded groundling Brachythemis leucosticta Small numbers at the bridge wetland in the cane- fields near Hondo Hondo. Several males patrolling the hippo pools at Mikumi. Granite ghost Bradinopyga cornuta Steve recorded this species at Sanje Falls (Udzungwa). Broad scarlet Crocothemis erythraea Only recorded in very small numbers this year. Black percher Diplacodes lefebvrii Sao Hill Marsh. Luminous percher Diplacodes luminans Widespread this year. Pied-spot Hemistigma albipunctata Small numbers at the bridge wetland in the cane- fields near Hondo Hondo. Black-tailed skimmer Nesciothemis farinosa Widespread. Slender bottletail Olpogastra lugubris Several in the cultivated valley en route to the habituated mangabeys near Sanje. Long skimmer Orthetrum trinacria Several at Kisolanza. Julia skimmer Orthetrum julia Widespread. Two-striped skimmer Orthetrum caffrum Kitulo. Portia widow Palpopleura portia Single in the cultivated valley en route to the habituated mangabeys near Sanje. Also a few in the Hondo Hondo clearing. Also one recorded at Sao Hill marsh.

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Yellow-veined widow Palpopleura jucunda Steve recorded this species at the bridge wetland in the cane-fields near Hondo Hondo. Also one at Sao Hill marsh. Globe skimmer Pantala flavescens Widespread and very common on occasion. Coral-tailed cloudwing Tholymis tillarga Common at Hondo Hondo this year. Keyhole glider Tramea basilaris Widespread in the highlands. Monk’s-hood dropwing Trithemis aconita A forest-edge species. Several in the cultivated valley en route to the habituated mangabeys near Sanje. Violet dropwing Trithemis annulata One in the cultivated valley en route to the habituated mangabeys near Sanje. Red-veined dropwing Trithemis arteriosa Frequently encountered around the Udzungwa area. Also at Kisolanza. Jaunty dropwing Trithemis stictica Small numbers at the bridge wetland in the cane- fields near Hondo Hondo. Kisolanza. Blue cascader Zygonyx natalensis Steve recorded this at Sanje Falls (Udzungwa).

Glistening demoiselle Phaon iridipennis Udzungwa. Golden dancing jewel Platycypha auripes Steve found a glorious individual on the Sanje Falls trail. Gripping stuff. Dancing jewel Platycypha caligata On small rocky streams at Udzungwa and along the reservoir outflow at Kisolanza. Smoky spreadwing Lestes virgatus Kisolanza. Common threadtail Elattoneura glauca Single male at Kisolanza. [possibly cellularis, no material on the web] Riverjack Mesocnemis singularis One male on the Ruaha at Baobab Valley. Slender bluet Africallagma elongatum Present at Sao Hill Marsh. The damsel present at the Mporoto crater rim lunch-stop. Common orange Ceriagrion glabrum Kisolanza. Common bluetail Ischnura senegalensis Kisolanza. Fork-tailed bluet Proischnura subfurcata Kisolanza and Sao Hill Marsh. Kersten’s sprite Pseudagrion (A) kersteni Common at Udzungwa. Powder sprite Pseudagrion (A) Above Utengule and Kitulo NP. spernatum Masai sprite Pseudagrion (B) Just one male at Kisolanza. massaicum Cherry-eyed sprite Pseudagrion sublacteum A few around Sanje (Udzungwa) this year. Pinhey’s whisp Agriocnemis pinheyi A few at Sao Hill marsh this year.

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Systematic List Number 4 Reptiles and Amphibians

Order and nomenclature follow Spawls et al. (2006) Pocket guide to the reptiles & amphibians of East Africa.

Tropical house gecko Hemidactylus mabouia Widespread. Yellow-headed dwarf Lygodactylus Seen on toilet block walls at Chalinze and Morogoro. gecko luteopicturatus Striped skink Mabuya striata Kisolanza and Mikumi. Variable skink Mabuya varia Widespread. Coral rag skink Cryptoblepharus boutonii Bongoyo Island – where common. Red-headed rock agama Agama agama Highlands. Flap-necked chameleon Chamaeleo dilepis Just one bitey individual this year, on the road near Vuma Hills camp (Mikumi). Goetze’s chameleon Chamaeleo goetzi One youngster at Kitulo. Nile monitor Varanus niloticus One or two at the small wetland in the cane-fields near Hondo Hondo (Udzungwa). Nile crocodile Crocodylus niloticus Several in the hippo pool at Mikumi this year.

Common squeaker Arthroleptis stenodactylus A few at Udzungwa. Guttural toad Bufo gutturalis Widespread and often common. Southern foam-nesting Chiromantis xerampelina Only seen on the Sanje Falls trail this year. frog Mascarene rocket frog Ptychadena mascariensis In the agricultural area outside the gate at Hondo Hondo (Udzungwa). Udzungwa rocket frog Ptychadena uzungwensis One on Sonjo trail during the day (Udzungwa). Edible bullfrog Pyxicephalus edulis Two or three on the first night at Kawe Beach. Mt. Meru stream frog Strongylopus One at Kitulo. merumontanus

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Systematic List Number 5 Butterflies

Papilionidae Citrus swallowtail Papilio demadocus Hondo Hondo, Utengule, Kitulo. Papilio desmondi Mporoto. Papilio fülleborni Mporoto. Veined swordtail Graphium leonidas Hondo Hondo. Large striped swordtail Graphium antheus Hondo Hondo. Black swallowtail Graphium colonna Sonjo trail. Graphium policenes Kimani Falls.

Pieridae African emigrant Catopsila florella Baobab Valley, Chimala. African clouded yellow Colias electo a few at Kitulo. a grass yellow Eurema desjardinisi Mikumi. Common grass yellow Eurema hecabe widespread. Belenois creona Utengule, Kimani Falls track. Small salmon arab Colotis amata Baobab Valley. Large orangetip Colotis antevippe Hondo Hondo and Baobab Valley. Colotis aurigineus Kimani Falls. Colotis celimene Isimila. Colotis danae Baobab Valley. Purple tip Colotis ione Hondo Hondo, Baobab Valley. an orangetip Colotis pallene Mikumi and Baobab Valley. Yellow splendour Colotis protomedia Peter photographed this species at the Chalinze samosa stop. Eastern dotted border Mylothris agathina Utengule.

Lycaenidae Common scarlet Axiocerses tjoane Utengule. Deudorix spp. Baobab Valley. Water geranium blue Cacyreus palemon Kitulo. Zebra blue spp. Leptotes spp. widespread. Leptotes pirithous Mporoto. Small copper Lycaena phlaeas Kitulo.

Nymphalidae Common tiger Danaus chrysippus widespread. Amauris echerea Sanje Falls. Amauris ellioti Mporoto. Grizzled bush brown Bicyclus ena Chimala. Common bush brown Bicyclus safitza widespread. Neita orbipalus Kisolanza. Neocoenyra heckmanni Mporoto. Neocoenyra petersi common at Kitulo, where endemic. Charaxes aubyni Mporoto. Charaxes baumanni Hondo Hondo. Foxy charaxes Charaxes saturnus Baobab Valley and Mikumi. Pearl charaxes Charaxes varanes Mporoto & Kimani Forest Queen Euxanthe wakefieldi Sanje Trail Hypolimnas misippus widespread.

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Hypolimnas anthedon Udzungwa. Blue mother-of-pearl Protogoniomorpha temora Hondo Hondo. Forest mother-of-pearl Protogoniomorpha Hondo Hondo, . parhassus Junonia artaxa Chimala. Blue pansy Junonia orithya scattered records. Dark blue pansy Junonia oenone Hondo Hondo. Yellow pansy Junonia hierta Baobab Valley. Natal pansy Junonia natalica widespread. Soldier pansy Junonia terea Hondo Hondo, Utengule. Precis antilope Kimani Falls track. Gaudy commodore Precis octavia Chimala. Joker Byblia ilithyia Hondo Hondo and elsewhere. A pathfinder Catuna sikorana Forewing black with white subapical bar. Hindwing deep orange with brown markings. Several along Sanje trail Euptera kinugnana Sanje Falls. a false acraea Pseudacraea dolomena Hondo Hondo. a false acraea Pseudacraea eurytus Sonjo trail. False diadem Pseudacraea lucretia Hondo Hondo. Forest glade nymph Aterica galene Udzungwa. Neptis serena Utengule. a forester Euphaedra crawshayi Hondo Hondo. Gold-banded forester Euphaedra neophron Hondo Hondo. Guineafowl Hamanumida daedalus Kimani Falls. Antanartia schaeneia Mporoto. an acraea Acraea acrita Baobab Valley. Acraea eponina Mporoto. Acraea johnstoni Utengule. Natal acraea Acraea natalica Hondo Hondo. Acraea neobule Kitulo. Leopard Phalanta phalanta widespread. African queen Issoria smaragdifera Kitulo.

Hesperioidea Sarangesa astrigera Kitulo – a range extension. Sarangesa motozi Utengule. Striped policeman Coeliades forestan Hondo Hondo and Utengule.

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Systematic List Number 6 Plants

Several books were used in the field, and later in compiling the list. Many species were identified at Kew Herbarium, London through specimens taken (after the trip) as part of Rondi’s ongoing research. Photographs of unknown orchid species were identified by the author of Kew’s orchid Review and orchids of Malawi Isobyl le Croix and orchid expert at Kew Andre Andre Schuiteman. Unknown specimens photographed in the Udzungwa where identified by Kenyan Botanist Quentin Luke who has worked extensively in the area. Thanks also to Peter Miller who was quick at work and identified quite a few species!

Blue = New record for 2013. Red = Seen in previous years.

Dictyotaceae Padina boergesenii Leaf rolled-blade algae. Kawe.

Udoteaceae Avrainvillea obscura Green algae. Kawe.

Lycopodiophyta Selaginellaceae Selaginella sp. Spike moss. Udzungwa.

Pteridophytes Dennstaedtiaceae Pteridium sp. Bracken. Kitulo Plateau.

Dryopteridaceae Dryopteris athamantica Large Fern. Kitulo Plateau.

Ophioglossaceae Ophioglossum vulgatum var. Africaum Kitulo Plateau. Tiny Adders tongue fern.

Gymnosperms Casurinaceae Casurina equisetifolia Casurina, whistling pine. Dar. Exotic.

Pinaceae Pinus patula Mexican weeping pine. Kitulo. Exotic.

Angiosperms Monocotyledons Arecaceae Borassus aethiopium Borassus/fan palm. Dar, Mikumi

Amaryllidaceae Scadoxus multiflorus. Fire-ball Lily. In fruit. Boophone disticha Fireball tumble Weed. Boabab Valley.

Anthericaceae Chlorophytum affine Kitulo Plateau Chlorophytum spp. Others were unidentified, including large one on way up Sanje waterfall.

Araceae Amorphophallus abyssinicus Sanje trail, Udzungwa.

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Asclepiadaceae Ceropegia papillata Ngosi Crater.

Asparagaceae (including Scilloideae) Asparagus sp. Udzungwa Draceana mannii Udzungwa Ledebouria sp. Adpressed fleshy leaves, mottled. White flowers in spikes (like hyacinth), seen on Bongoyo Island.

Asphodelaceae Aloe nuttii. Kitulo, Matamba Ridge. Bulbine abyssinica Kitulo Plateau, yellow flowered, with densely bearded filaments Kniphofia goetzei a red hot poker. Tall with long flower head. Kitulo Plateau. Kniphofia grantii a red hot poker. Shorter flower. In grassland on Kitulo Plateau. Kniphofia palludosa a red hot poker. Large flower, over. In stream by Kitulo farm. Endemic. Trachyandra saltii White flowers with red keel. Linear leaves. Kitulo.

Cactaceae Opuntia sp. Prickly pear. Dar.

Cannaceae Canna sp. Red, orange, yellow. Exotic. Widespread in towns & villages.

Colchicaceae Gloriosa superba Flame Lily. Widespread and reasonably common in various forms. Gloriosa minor Small. Isimila

Commelinaceae Commelina africana Spider wort. Flowers yellow. Kitulo Plateau. Commelina erecta Common in grassland and edges of cultivated land Commelina kituloensis Kitulo, larger purple flowers. Commelina latifolia Ngosi Crater; found on disturbed ground. Cyanotis speciosa Small with pompom like anthers. Common on Kitulo Plateau Cyanotis longiflora Chimala escarpment; as above but with long leaves. Murdannia simplex delicate plant with blueish to mauve flowers. Kitulo

Cyperaceae Ascolepis capensis Udzunngwa, Kitulo Plateau . Sedge with white pompom like flower head. Bulbostylis sp. Tiny sedge. Kitulo Plateau Kyllinga alba Round white sedge. Widespread Cyperus rigidifolius Kitulo Plateau. Cyperus alternifolius. Widespread

Cucurbitaceae Momordica foetida Forest edge in Udzungwa. Perennial climber with tendrils, flowers cream. When crushed plant has a foetid smell

Gramineae Exotheca abyssinica. Large grass with long awns. Kitulo Plateau Andropogon lima. Kitulo Plateau Helictotrichon elongatum. Kitulo Plateau Bromus leptoclados . Kitulo Plateau Eragrostis racemosa. Kitulo Plateau Digitaria myurus Kitulo Plateau. Hairy with purple inflorescence. Endemic. Digitaria rukwae Kitulo Plateau Panicum ecklonii Kitulo Plateau Dactyloctenium giganteum Giant Crowfoot. Roadside. Festuca caprina Kitulo Plateau

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Hyacinthaceae Albuca are Ornithogalum like and sometimes included in that genus. They differ in erect inner tepals, with at least the inner filaments pinched below. Albuca abyssinica Several on Kitulo Plateau Albuca sp. Sao Hill; White.

Hypoxidaceae Hypoxis angustifolia Kitulo Plateau

Iridaceae Crocosmia aurea Montbretia. Ngosi Crater and Mt.Rungwe. Dierama pendulum Kitulo Plateau Ixia sp. Kitulo Plateau Gladiolus has leaves usually with a definate midrib, inflorescence a spike of usually zygomorphic flowers. Gladiolus dalenii Kitulo Plateau and 1 in Songwe grassland. Also roadsides elsewhere. Gladiolus unguiculatus Several on Kitulo Plateau Tritonia laxiflora Common at Isimila; orangey pink Savannosiphon euryphyllus Common white night-flowering Iris on the edge of woods at Utengule. Moraea have either iris-like flowers with unequal tepals, or with all tepals more or less equal. Moraea schimperi A few in flower on Kitulo Plateau. Purple flowers. Moraea tanzanica Locally common on Kitulo Plateau. Yellow flowers. Moraea callista Stunning white/blue iris on Matamba ridge, Kitulo Romulea are often acaulescent, with actinomorphic flowers. Romulea camerooneana Kitulo Plateau,

Orchidaceae Still trying to obtain a copy of Orchids of Malawi. The Kenya and South African Orchid books were of some use, photos please of as yet unidentified species! Calanthe sylvatica Large and pink. Mporoto/Ngozi Crater walk Brachycorythis pubescens Lilac and yellow. Chimala River on way to Kitulo. Brachycorythis rhodostachys. Small orchid. Pink and white. Sao Hill. Cynorkis anacamptoides Purple in wet flushes. Kitulo. Cynorkis kirkii At top of Sanje falls – flower face looks like an Angel. Pale pink and white with very long spur. Disa aconitoides White with pink flecks. Isilmila. Disa stolzii Red. Kitulo. Disa robusta Red flowers like dunce caps. Kitulo. Disa ukingensis Pink with white spots. Mistakenly labelled D.welwitschii in guidebook. Matamba ridge. Kitulo. Disa satyriopsis Pink & yellow. Matamba ridge. Disperis uzungwae Unusual bright pink orchid growing next to Cynorkis kirkii Disa walleri Large mauve flowers (spotted galea), Chimala River, Kitulo. Eulophia ovalis Small, yellow. Kitulo. Eulophia clavicornis Purple and white. Kitulo. Eulophia odontoglossa (syn. Shupangae) Yellow form at Kisolanza. Eulophia ischna Sao Hill; white and purple. Eulophia mechowii Large pale yellow flower with purple-brown throat. Sao Hill. Habenaria cornuta Kitulo. Vary variable with green-yellow spidery flowers. Habenaria macrura White. Kitulo. Habenaria occlusa Large, green. Kitulo. Habenaria xanthochlora Compact. Kitulo Plateau. Habenaria kyimbilae Fly-like flowers. Kitulo Plateau – mostly in bud. Habenaria gonatosiphon. Sao Hill. Nb. Isobyl la Croix – initially identified as H.laurentii but on review changed identification. Habenaria goetzeana. Green orchid seen at Isimila. Habenaria malacophylla Crater ridge, Ngozi crater – budding. Habenaria ?papyracea Green flower. Kitulo plateau Habenaria schimperiana Fly-like flowers. Kitulo plateau Habenaria welwitschii Fly-like flowers. Sao Hill Holothrix nyasae Small, white, hairy. By stream nr Kitulo farm.

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Holothrix hydra On road to Kitulo via Chimala escarpment. Liparis nervosa Ridged stalk; Green flowers with maroon lip. Sao Hill. Platycoryne ambigua Yellow. Isimila. Platycoryne pervillei. Sao Hill; Bright orange. Satyrium acutirostrum (syn of S.sceptrum) Waxy red/orange. Kitulo Plateau. Satyrium antherstoneii Sao Hill; Large, white. Satyrium breve Kitulo plateau. Large pink flowers with stubby spurs – in marsh in central section of Numbe valley. Satyrium carsonii White. Grassland near Kisilanza (Loo stop) Satyrium coriophoroides Red and compact. Grassland near Kisilanza (Loo stop) Satyrium johnstonii Small and green. Matamba ridge, Kitulo. Satyrium longicauda White, long spurs. Kitulo. Satyrium neglectum Pink. Kitulo. Satyrium riparium Sao Hill: Small brown flowers. Satyrium sphaeranthum Tall, yellow. Kitulo. Satyrium monadenum Red flowers, labellum trifurcate. Kitulo. Satyrium volkensii Brown-purple flowers with green; long spurs. On rocky hillside by Chimala River. Schizochilus sulphurous Small, yellow. Matamba ridge, Kitulo.

Pandanaceae Pandanus sp Screw Pine. Dar.

Streliziaceae Ravenala madagascariensis Traveller’s Palm.

Xyridaceae Xyris obscura Sao Hill. Kitulo Plateau

Zingiberaceae Siphonochilus aethiopicus Mikumi. Leaves form after the flowers. Siphonochilus kirkii Rose ginger lily. Large bright leavrs. Likes shade. Udzungwa, Mikumi. Siphonochilus brachystemon Base of Sonjo trail, Udzungwa. Lovely blue flower. Siphonochilus sp. White ginger. Base of Sanje trail. Costus macranthus Sonjo trail, Udzungwa

Dicotyledons Acanthaceae Asystasia sp. Widespread, several species. Justicia betonica Kisolanza Justicia spp. Several others seen Pseuderanthemum hildebrandtii Orange flowers. Bongoyo Is. Thunbergia alata Black-eyed Susan Thunbergia gregorii Striking orange flowers, road to Kitulo Plateau.

Amaranthaceae Centemopsis gracilenta Distinctive grass like herb with small red terminal spike on long stem; Chimala escarpment.

Anacardiaceae Sclerocarya birrea Marula Tree. Mikumi. Sanje Manifera indica Mango. Widespread crop. Anacardium occidentale Cashew. Widespread crop.

Annonaceae Annona reticulata Sanje Polyalthia longifolia var pendula Ashok, Indian mast tree, Dar es salaam; Often seen along roadside throughout trip.

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Apiaceae Agrocharis melanantha Kitulo Plateau Alepidia peduncularis (syn. Swynnertonii) Common on Kitulo Plateau Heteromorpha involucrate Kitulo Plateau Pimpinella caffra ssp.conopodioides Kitulo Plateau Sanicula sp. Sanicle. Ngozi Crater.

Apocynaceae (includes Asclepiadaceae) Acokanthera schimperi Poison Arrow Tree. Udzungwa Adenium obesum Desert rose. Dar. Calotropis gigantea Crown flore. Dar es Salaam etc. Calotropis procera Dead Sea Fruit. Dar es Salaam Carvalhoa campanulata Shrub with yellow flowers and chilli like fruits; Sonjo trail. Catharanthus sp. Madagascar Periwinkle. Widespread exotic. Holarrhena pubescens Jasmine tree. Woodland, Udzungwa NP. Nerium oleander Naturalised. Utengule. Scattered records. Plumeria sp. Frangipani. Utengule. Scattered records. Rauvolfia sp. Root used in medicine. Udzungwa HP. Tabernaemontana pachysiphon Tree with scented rotate flowers, Sanje Thevetia peruviana Naturalised. Southern Highlands. Xysmalobium undulatum Milk bush. Kitulo road

Asteraceae Artemesia afra Kitulo Plateau Aspilia mossambicensis Isimila Aster tansaniensis Kitulo Plateau Berkheya echinacea ssp.polyacantha Kitulo Plateau Berkhaya zeyheri Lanceolate, bristly leaves, flowers gone over. Kitulo. Cirsium buchwaldii Marshes on Kitulo Plateau Crepis newii Common on Kitulo Echinops sp. Very large flower heads. Kitulo Plateau. Emilia coccinea (E. javanica) Orange. Widespread weed found by roadside. Emilia tenera Purple. Kitulo Plateau Erythrocephalum longifolium Red. Mikumi Gerbera viridiflora Kitulo Plateau Gymnodiscus capillaris Small yellow flowered annual. Cape Point. Haplocarpha thunbergii Kitulo Plateau Helichrysum abietinum Kitulo Plateau Helichrysum forskahlii Kitulo Plateau Helichrysum herbaceum Kitulo Plateau & Kisolanza. Helichrysum nitens subsp. Nitens Kitulo Plateau Helichrysum nudifolium var. Nudifolium Kitulo Plateau Helichrysum splendidum Silvery shrub. Kitulo Plateau Helichrysum tillandsifolium Kitulo Plateau Inula stolzii Kitulo Plateau Scenecio inornatus Kitulo Plateau Scenecio ?laticorymbosus Kitulo Plateau Senecio purpureus Kitulo Plateau Scenecio semiamplexifolius Kitulo Plateau Taraxacum officinale Dandelion. Introduced to pasture at kisolanza farm Tridax procumbens Widespread small weed (white) and locally common. Vernonia nyassae. Kitulo

Balsaminaceae Impatiens assurgens Mt.Rungwe Impatiens austrotanzanica Ngosi Crater. Tall. Impatiens confusa Ngosi Crater Impatiens gomphophylla Kitulo Plateau. Tall. Can hybridize with I. austrotanzanica Impatiens polyantha Kitulo Plateau Impatiens rosulata Numerous on Kitulo Plateau

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Impatiens rubromaculata 2 red spots on flower face. Ngosi Crater. Impatiens wallerana Common species in Udzungwa

Begoniaceae Begonia meyeri-johannis Ngosi Crater Begonia sutherlandii Ngosi Crater, orange flowers Begonia oxyloba. Small spotted leaves, Sanje and Sonjo waterfalls

Bignoniaceae Kigelia africana Sausage Tree Jacaranda mimosifolia Dar es Salaam, Mbeya Markhamia lutea Golden bean tree, yellow flowers. Utengule Podreana brycei Zimbabwe creeper, Utengule gardens Spathodea campanulata African Tulip Tree, Mbeya. Tecoma stans Yellow elder, Dar .

Bombacaceae Adansonia digitata Baobab, widespread Bombax rhodognathon Udzungwa.

Boraginaceae Cynoglossum amplifolium Kitulo Plateau Cynoglossum coeruleum subsp johnstonii var johnstonii Kitulo Plateau Lithospermum afromontanum Rocky outcrop. Kitulo Plateau Heliotropium sp. White. Baobab Valley. Cordia sp Mikumi

Campanulaceae Cyphia are erect or twining herbs with white to purple flowers, equally five lobed or two lipped, and split down the side. Cyphia sp. Kitulo Plateau, by the small waterfall. Twining, blue flowers. Cyphia brachyandra. Kitulo Plateau. Twinning, pink flowers. Lobelia angolensis Numerous on Kitulo Plateau, white flowers Lobelia mildbraedii Kitulo Plateau, large specimens seen in marshy areas Wahlenbergia abyssinica Kitulo Plateau Wahlenbergia capillacea ssp.tenuior Kitulo Plateau Wahlenbergia huttonii Matamba ridge, Kitulo.

Capparidaceae Cleome hirta Baobab Valley

Caricaceae Carica papaya Papaya. Dar. Exotic.

Caryophyllaceae Cerastium sp. Small white flowers by small waterfall, Kitulo Silene burchallii Kitulo Plateau Stellaria mannii. Small white flowers, Kitulo

Chrysobalanaceae Parinari excelsa Pale leaved trees on Udzungwa slopes

Combretaceae Combretum molle Sanje Combretum kraussi Forest bush willow, Road to Kitulo. Terminalia catappa Sea almond. Branches are distinctively arranged in tiers. Exotic.

Convolvulaceae Ipomoea pes-caprae Beach Morning Glory. Creeping species on dunes in Dar. Purple flower.

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Ipomoea batatas Sweet potato. Ipomoea blepharophylla Pale pink with darker centre. Mikumi. Ipomoea spp. Many types seen

Crassulaceae Crassula alba Kitulo Plateau, mostly red flowered Crassula vaginata Kitulo Plateau. Yellow. Crassula sp. White, Isimila

Dichapetalaceae Dichapetalum stuhlmannii Sanje

Dipsacaceae Cephalaria goetzei Kitulo Plateau Cephalaria pungens Common on Kitulo Plateau

Droseraceae Drosera madagascariensis Sao Hill. Kitulo Plateau

Ericaceae Erica kingaensis Kitulo Plateau Erica silvatica Kitulo Plateau Erica whyteana Kitulo lunch site 1

Euphorbiaceae Acalpha ornate Edible, medicinal. Udzungwa. Croton macrostachyus Broad leaved croton. Kisolanza. Euphorbia candelabrum Widespread Euphorbia quadrangularis Euphorbia tirucali Bongoyo Euphorbia daviesii Kitulo Plateau Macaranga capensis Mt.Rungwe Ricinus communis Castor oil plant. Widespread. Ricinodendron sp. Wild Papaya (name given by guide). Used to make drums. Sanje.

Fabaceae Acacia drepanolobium Whistling Acacia, Isimila Acacia polyacantha Sanje Acacia mearnsii Black Wattle. Roadsides, plantations in Southern Highlands. Acacia senegal Sudan gum arabic. 3-thorned acacia. Flowers form cream spikes. Afzelia quanzensis Pod Mahogany Albizia gummifera Albizia schimperiana Long-podded albizia. Makambako. Argyrolobium rupestre var. Aberdaricum Kitulo Plateau Astragalus atropilosulus var. Pubescens Kitulo Plateau Desmodium repens Delicate orange flower. Ngosi Crater. Dichrostachyis cinerea Sickle Bush. Isimila. Bauhinia petersiana Large white Bauhinia. Large lealf. Widespread in Southern Highlands Bauhinia variegata Pink. Orchid Tree, Camel's foot. Dar Brachystegia boehmii Prince of Wales Feathers. Kisolanza Brachystegia manga Blue-leaved Brachystegia, Chimala. Brachystegia spiciformis Main component of Miombo woodland. Cassia abbreviata ssp. Widespread. Chamaecrista mimosoides (Syn. Cassia mimosoides) Shrub; yellow. Widespread. Clitoria ternatea Kimani road Crotalaria spp. Several unidentified Dalbergia melanoxylon Mikumi Delonix elata White; finely bipinnate leaves. Kitulo Delonix regia Flamboyant tree. Dar. Along road Dar-Mbeya. Delonix sp. Pink flowers, shrub, Boabab valley.

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Dichrostachys cinerea Isimila Erythrina lysistemon Songwe. Eriosema buchananii var. Subprostratum Kitulo Plateau Eriosema flexuosum Kitulo Plateau Indigofera spp. Cultivated land. Udzungwa. Lotus discolor. Kitulo. Lotononis stolzii Kitulo Mimosa pudica Sensitive plant, along sugar cane plantation in Udzungwa. Parkia filicoidea Udzungwa; top of Sanje Otholobium (Psoralea) foliosa Kitulo Plateau Pterocarpus angolensis Wild teak. Udzungwa, Kimani Senna didymobotra Naturalised. Mbeya. Senna siamea Kasia. Road sides. Exotic. Senna spectabilis Cassia, yellow shower. Mbeya. Exotic. Trifolium simense Kitulo Plateau Trifolium wentzelianum ssp.stolzii Kitulo Plateau Tylosoma fassoglensis Previously known as Bauhinia fassoglensis (sprawling Bauhinia) Roadsides low altitude, yellow flower. Udzungwa.

Gentianaceae Sebaea longicaulis Kitulo Plateau

Geraniaceae Geranium incanum Numerous on Kitulo Plateau Geranuim arabicum Around rocky outcrop. Kitulo. Pelargonium luridum Leaves seen - flowering over. Kitulo Plateau

Gesneriaceae Saintpaulia ionantha H. Wendl. ssp. ionantha var. ionantha Several flowering by second waterfall, Sanje. Streptocarpus buchananii. Straggling plant with many pairs of rough leaves; violet. Ngosi Crater. Streptocarpus ?soenanthusl Single large leaf with 1-4 flowers; Violet. Ngosi Crater. Streptocarpus glanulosissmus Udzungwa, Sanje.

Gunneraceae Gunnera perpensa Kitulo Plateau

Hypericaceae Hypericum sp. Hypericum scioanum Kisolanza, Kitulo.

Lamiaceae Plectranthus schizophyllus Kitulo, blue flowers. Ajuga intergrifolia Low growing, pink-blue. Kitulo, near ruins. Ocimum decumbens White flowers. Widespread in Southern highlands Platostoma rotundifolium Tall with purple flowers. Bottom of Numbe valley nr Eucalyptus

Lentibulariaceae Utricularia welwitschii Kitulo. In marshy areas Utricularia pentadactyla. Top of Sanje falls growing in moss. White with pink centre. The Author of this species Peter Taylor was the head of Orchids at Kew before Phil Cribb but apparently his true love was with carnivorous plants such as this.

Linaceae Linum thunbergii Kitulo Plateau

Loranthaceae Aegelanthus sp Mistletoe. Kisolanza.

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Malphigiaceae Triapsis dumeticola Climber. Road to Kimani falls.

Malvaceae Hibiscus rosa sinensis Rose of China. Exotic. Dar etc. . Hibiscus tiliaceus Wild cotton tree. Udzungwa, Kimani. Hibiscus vitifolius Yellow, dark red at centre. Disturbed areas. Udzungwa

Melastomataceae Dissotis canescens Linear leaves; purple. Southern Highlands. Dissotis sp. Shrub at top of Sanje falls, Udzungwa Tristemma mauritianum Pink flower; forest edge, Udzungwa.

Meliaceae Azadirachta Neem. Exotic. Dar. Melia azederach Persian Bead Tree. Exotic. Dar. Turraea sp. Shrub with yellow flowers - stamens fused to form a narrow cylindrical (staminal) tube with even longer style protruding from this.

Menyanthaceae Nymphoides peltata Fringed Water-lily, Yellow Floating-heart, Water Fringe. Reservoir at Kisolanza.

Moraceae Antiaris toxicaria Udzungwa Ficus spp. Widespread Ficus sur Sanje trail. Udzungwa. Milicia excelsa Udzungwa Artocarpus altilis Breadfruit. Hondo Hondo, Udzungwa.

Musaceae Musa sp Banana

Myrtaceae Callistemon rigidus Naturalised. Isimila, Mbeya. Eucalyptus sp. Commonly planted exotic as border tree or for timber. Syzygium cuminii Java Plum. Roadside, Udzungwa.

Nyctaginaceae Bougainvillea glabra. Naturalised. Widespread.

Oleaceae Schrebera alata Wing leaved wooden pear, Wild jasmine. Dar.

Onagraceae Epilobium salignum Kitulo Plateau

Oxalidaceae Biophytum ?sensitivum Kitulo road? Oxalis corniculata Yellow. Isimila. Oxalis obliquifolia Pink. Kitulo Plateau. Oxalis latifolia Pink exotic weed. Roadsides, cultivated land.

Pedaliaceae Josephinia africana On sand dune in dar. Woody creeper with pink tubular flowers. Sesamum angolense Widespread Sesamum angustifolium Lower Kitulo road

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Piperaceae Piper capense Udzungwa

Poaceae Sorghum sp Widespread, Eaten by livestock.

Polygalaceae Polygala sp. Kitulo

Polygonaceae Polygonum sp. Small, Kitulo Plateau. Polygonum ?senegalense. On edge of reservoir in Kisolanza. Pink flowers. Antigonon leptopus Coral Vine. Pink. Exotic. Rumex abyssinicus Tall sorrel. Kitulo; widespread upland species. Many along the roadside. Rumex acetosella Sorrel introduced from Europe. Along roadside by Kitulo farm.

Proteaceae Protea are shrubs or small trees, with flowers in terminal heads, surrounded by large colourful bracts. Protea humifusa Kitulo Protea heckmanniana Kitulo

Ranunculaceae Clematopsis villosa subsp. kirkii Bi- tri-foliate leaves, bushy. Chimala escarpment. Clematopsis uhehensis Simple leaves; solitary flowers. Kitulo Plateau Delphinium leroyi Kitulo Plateau Ranunculus raeae Kitulo Plateau Ranunculus volkensii Kitulo Plateau Thalictrum rhynchocarpum. Ngozi crater.

Rhamnaceae Phylica emirnensis Kitulo Plateau

Rosaceae Alchemilla ellenbeckii Kitulo Plateau Rubus porotoensis Mt.Rungwe

Rubiaceae (Dolicho) pentas decora Several on Kitulo Plateau Pentas purpurea Kitulo Plateau Pentas bussei Red. Scattered records Pentas parvifolia Isimila. Galium bussei Kitulo Plateau, resembles Lady’s Bedstraw – yellow flowers. Galium tanganyikense Kitulo Plateau in boggy areas, white flowers. Galium aparine Exotic weed. Kisolanza. Gardenia ternifolia var jovis-tonantis Large leaved Gardenia. Kisolanza. Geophila obvallata White flowers; heart-shaped leaves; Sanje and Sonjo trails. Phycotria sp. Udzungwa cannabis tree. Flower with very long white stamens. Sonjo Trail

Scrophulariaceae Buchnera cryptocephala Kitulo Plateau Cycnium adonense. Utengule. Path to Coffee plantation. Large white trumpet flower. Turns inky blue when bruised. Cycnium filicalyx Sao Hill in bog. Stunning pink. Gerardiina angolensis Kitulo Plateau Hebenstretia have sessile flowers in dense spikes, white usually with orange fleck at the base of petals. Hebenstretia angolensis Kitulo Plateau Hedbergia abyssinica Kitulo, soft pink flowers, semiparasitic. Sopuba manii Common on Kitulo, pink flowers

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Striga sp. Orange/Red flower. Woodland around Utengule. Veronica abyssinica. Creeping; blue. Ngosi crater. Veronica sp. Prostrate with terminal raceme, blue. Track by campsite, Kitulo.

Solanaceae Solanum incanum. Widespread in Southern Highlands. Solanum tuberosum Potato Solanum melongena Egg-plant. Datura inoxia. Moonflower, Thorn-apple. Exotic. Widespread around Mbeya.

Sterculiaceae Sterculia appendiculata Tree. Characteristic smooth pale truck. Sanje. Sterculia quinqueloba Tree. Sanje. Sterculia africana Bongoyo Island.

Strychnaceae Strychnos madagascariensis Kisolanza

Theaceae Camellia simensis Tea. Kisolanza.

Tiliaceae Corchoros olitorius Widespread. Yellow flowered shrub. Grewia bicolour Baobab Valley Grewia truncata Kisolanza, lake side.

Thymeleaceae Gnidia fastigiata Shrublet, pale blue flowers. Kitulo Plateau.

Tropaeolaceae Tropaeolum majus Nasturtium. Weed (native to S.America) on Sanje trail, Udzungwa.

Turneraceae Tricliceras sp. Mikumi, yellow flowers

Valerianaceae Valeriana capensis Kitulo Plateau

Verbenaceae Lantana camara Naturalised. Loved by butterflies! Lippia ukambensis White. Widespread Tectona grandis Teak. Planted.

Vitex doniana Sanje Vitex ferruginea Plum Fingerleaf. Kisolanza. Vitex mossambicensis Udzungwa Verbena sp. Cultivated land at base of Sanje trail. Udzungwa NP.

Violaceae Viola abyssinica Kitulo Plateau

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