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SURFING AT WAIKIKI By Sam Poepoe 1 shall not attempt to tell you how the greatest lifting area would be the tangent waves are formed for surfing; that is for formed by the wave at the 20 inch width, the Oceanographer, but I will endeavor assuming again he continues to ride per­ to clarify points on how to surf—that is pendicular to the wave’s front. riding the surfboard—as practiced by the Now, on an identical wave, he tacks or surfers of the Outrigger Canoe Club. slides his board say, to the left. This time To understand this sport one must the lifting area is increased from 20 understand the theory to have greater inches to 132 inches at the tangent, and ‘ appreciation and tolerance. Here, under brother, when he does that he should be your surfboard, is a tremendous catapult­ traveling provided he does not override"" ing natural force — called "centrifugal The last theory now presents itself anW. force” — varying in power from a placid it is the lines of forces. Draw an imaginary ocean surface to towering 30-foot waves line through the wave's crest you’ll ride. off Castle’s, to Halekulani onto the har­ This line represents the maximum power bor entrance and as far north as Waimea output for YOUR wave. You’re am­ 15ay and back to Canoe Surf. I was caught bitious and want to match this by a by one of these waves when Duke re­ similar board line—a center power line turned in 1931 and the waves were at through your surfboard. You’ve always there best off Halekulani hotel during had it! But the question now is how to the Christmas holidays. This wave broke match power for power. As I see it, and on me, knocked me windless and churned very crudely too, a parallel line of such me in a giant vortex then ignominiously power forces will be the solution. But thumped me down hard on what seemed how? I think rather simply too. The and endless trip to a bottomless ocean. wave’s power production is constant. However, I did enjoy a long ride from Therefore, being imperfectly human, Halekulani through Popular to first break you’re the variable factor. Being adven­ and land on the beach in front of the turously cocky you want to still match the Royal Hawaiian Hotel. wave’s constant. And here’s how it’s done. SURFING DEFINED AND NOW HOWI This catapulting force I shall call the You’ve acquired the necessary strength- ‘'impelling force” with its maximum out­ and stamina and fortitude for this relax­ put of power at the crest a split second ing game; furthermore, you’ve learned before it curls to break into foam. the land marks well for projection to you The gross weight of both surfer and at Canoe Surf for fast, competitive com­ hoard plus the pull of gravity I shall call pany. the "repelling force.” Okay! Here comes a beautiful wave. A From the counter action of both—one hasty survey tells you she will not break lifting to throw the surfer and the other anywhere along its front. This is where repelling—through deft movements on fortitude has her inning. Sit tight. So his board so he will not be thrown—you tight you do not move a muscle until get propulsion, a naturale. you hear it crackle without breaking. If Before you acquire this propulsion let she’s extraordinarily steep swing the us consider the surfboard. Let’s take one point of the board in the direction you’re eleven feet long (132 inches), with 20 sliding. On the other hand if she’s ordi­ inches at its greatest beam. Let us as­ narily curvaceous drive your calves and sume further that the rider catches a surfing luau feet hard; at the same mo­ moderate 8 foot in height wave. The ment swing and plow your arms and r 4 1 BEACH ACTIVITIES Hy ’ Bob'' 1’i.srlirr I hanks lo the line cooperation ol main sports-minded Club members, our activities over the past several months have shown a definite uptrend in partici­ pation and interest. Our Canoe Committee, under the Chairmanship ol Kill Capp and .Assistant Chairman Kill Morris, has worked out several plans lor improvement in our canoe situation, including the installa­ tion ol standard blocks to set the canoes 0 11 and uniform covers lor the canoes. We expect in the near future to have all ol the covers painted with white fire­ proof paint and feel that this move will improve the general appearance ol our canoe storage area in front ol the Club. Under the leadership ol Head Coach Sam Hiller and his able assistant Sam Poepoe, interest in paddling increased tremendously with the result that we had Wilford I). (iodhold. president of ll\e Outrigger at least two lu ll crews lor every scheduled Cauoe Club, presents a courtesy guest card to event in our July 4 races. The training charming Miss Iinid Blackwood who was se­ lected as Australia's "Miss .Idi'ertising of 1950.” ol these crews was under the supervision —Jo h n II iHiatus I’ltolo ol Duke Kahanamoku, Sargent Kahana- moku, Toots Minvielle, |olmnv Hollin- .Ac tivities participated in by your Club ger, W illie W hittle, with the assistance ol during the past several months were: m am ol our senior pacldlcrs. Too much The Club l)av in May; June II—Hoo- credit cannot be given this coaching stall kupu; Julv 1 — Walter Macfarlane Memo­ lor the main long hours thev put in to rial Races; Koolaupoko Labor Day races: develop our paddlers and maintain in­ opening program ol Aloha Week, in terest in this sport. which our canoes and members assistc/'' More and more interest is being devel­ in transporting the King from WaikiV. oped in surfboard racing and it is en­ to Ala Moana Park; participation in the couraging to see our members beginning night water pageant at Ala Moana Park, lo win or at least place in the paddling and partic ipation in the water sports pro­ events which in the past have been prcltv gram on the (inal dav of Aloha Week. much dominated bv representatives Irom While we recognize room lor improve­ other clubs. ment and expansion of our activities, we Under sponsorship of the Outrigger all realize that in order to carrv on and Canoe Club and the whole-hearted coop­ participate in these events, a great deal eration of Hui Nalu, Waikiki Surf Club. of time is devoted to them bv vour Club Healani Club and Koolaupoko Club, the leaders and participants. T o each and Hawaiian Canoe Paddling and Stirling everyone of this group, I extend nn per­ Association was formed. T he m ain pur­ sonal appreciation, a Merry Christmas pose of this association is to standardize and a Happv and Successful New Year. the rules and regulations governing canoe paddling and surfboard competi­ tion and to assist in coordinating various activities sponsored bv these clubs on es­ TPY AN °-c-c- tablished dates. ll' 1 PLANTERS PUNCH 1 lo\ed \\ .11kIkI .11ul once seixed ,is l’icsi SURFING AT WAIKIKI iii in ol iIn- (>utri” ” ci Canoe C. 1111 *. i ( oiiliiiiicil 11 inn I’uj'c ) CHRISTMAS AT WAIKIKI I.(nation Oni is the real ihalleii” e be ( ause it represents the ultimate matehiii” Christmas ,ii Waikiki is marvelous. I»i ■; n 11 \ ol Hawaiian Xaturr (ills and position ol powei lo power, lo attain il ealls lor a speed\ lake oil perleith tin ills e\ervbod\ 1111 k\ enough lo lie loordmated. I o hold it reoiiircs a ” \rai lluie on that da\ and on New Year. ni” million (omposed ol a sharp weight V itiue (ills tin- sk\. heaili. air and sea - thrust on ihe lore loot lollowed l>\ an and ilu mountains and vallevs lai In inboard both hall twist, the i i” hl oi hind \oiul willi all that is wondrilul. Sootli- loot maintainiii” bal.inie onl\. I his ai- iii” 11.i111 bree/es temper the warmth ol turn is e\ei uleil periodii a Il\ when \ott ilu loving sun. W aikiki expresses a spe- Ii el \ ou t e losiii” a 11 it ude. ■ ia I ( .111 1st mas tlolia. 1-low er-perl limed II \ oil're able lo maintain this h i” Ii 11 .iilr In ee/es sitting through palm Ironds topside with a level ridiii” hoaid \ou'\e ihispii ii. I (> \ c I \ I»i i tl s sin” it I mm n u ­ mail bed and mastered ilu powei plav ll i /\ ous ui broad shade lu es, lleei \ < louds and should experience nau” hl Imt Hans- spi II ii oni in ilu a/lire skv, and the blue 11 I idem \ , an emol ion a I expel ieni e wol ds •■yes ol ihe Cleat l’aiilu mat out the are inadei|uale lo expiess. .a” n i Iu i ill iilnlni. I wish lo pl.ue on lei old In nainiii” I In lsla ndei's —ol a 1 most e\ 11 v I ai e .mil the lililbank biollleis as loiuenm ” and iili” Kin (ommemoiate the llolidav Sea- Imildiii” the S null ol maleiial siein snii in Hawaii in ihe same spirit and whiili is so populai. Mils was in llll'.l maniu i .is do tlieii lellow Ami riians on when we were students at I’uualuiii ilu Mainland. Cluisimas irees aie im Si bool. Ii was i e\olul ioii.u \ indeed as Doited l)\ the thousands; we ha\e our i iu lies all.

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