One Cutter Breaks Down Another Cutter's Celebrity
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Miley Cyrus Janine Jarman Joe Anthony Pena January Jones One cutter breaks down another cutter’s celebrity cut “Miley’s crop and extreme blonde are very hip. What “The raw structure of January’s cut really a great way to express an edgier style,” says Janine represents the ‘everyday hair’ clients are Jarman, Sebastian Professional Stylist Design Team looking for,” says Farouk Systems Artist Joe M emb er. “She has definitely paved the way for some Anthony Pena. “The length—just below the exciting new cuts.” jaw—highlights a beautiful face and helps to camouflage a long neck, and the heavy fringe 1. Create a U-shape parting from recession areas to low crown and clip away the top. offers versatility without dictating the style. This is a great, quick cut that is ideal for a 2. To create the undercut, create small vertical sections and remove hair wide range of clients.” to the width of your fingers with shears or a razor. Follow with a scissor- over-comb technique, keeping the hair tight around the edges and 1. Create a foundation by establishing the bob line. creating a clean fade to finger-width length where the undercut meets the uncut top section. Work diagonally from front hairline to behind the ear. 2. Divide the hair into five sections. 3. Detail the outline with a clipper or razor. 3. In the middle back section, create a traveling guideline following the curve of the head. Attack the 4. Release the top section and create a diagonal parting from the center perimeter using a deep point cutting technique and back to above the arch of the eyebrow on one side. Working in diagonal, a 6.25-inch shear. This will reduce the overall time pie-shaped sections, elevate each section straight up from back to front, you’ll spend on the cut by creating the texture as and cut from about 2½ inches at the crown area to 4½ inches in front. you’re cutting. Use a point cutting technique or razor to keep the edges soft. 4. Move to the side sections above each ear. Bring hair 5. Blow-dry and comb the lengths over the undercut. Use a deep point up to the center point of the head and out towards shear technique or razor to detail the edges, keeping them soft and the outer point of the head and cut hair from short to tapered. long moving up through the section as you work. 6. Comb hair forward and cut the fringe diagonally. Leave the corners intact 5. In the hairline sections, bring hair up to the center of and use a deep point cutting or razor technique to reduce bulk. the head and cut from the center point to the exterior. 7. Spray Sebastian Professional Volupt Spray from roots to ends and 6. In the fringe area, pull sections of hair back to the flat wrap the hair back and forth with a Denman 7-row brush. Crank the high point of the head and cut from short to long so top section back and to the side. Heat hair with the dryer, lifting the hair the fringe remains long. This will create weight with with the brush until it cools. Detail with a flat iron if needed. Piece hair soft layers. with Sebastian Professional Microweb Fiber and finish with Sebastian Professional Shaper. 7. To style, cocktail 1-2 drops of CHI Silk Infusion with Pliable Polish, then blow-dry using your fingers. Jin Bang Katie Holmes Wayne Grund Kerry Washington “I would consider Katie Holmes’ look a classic long layer,” says Jin Bang, National Platform Artist for Neuma Beauty and stylist at Shades Natural Color “Kerry’s layers free up her long hair and provide Studio, Beverly Hills. “This is the most popular an organic sense of ‘uncut’ independence,” says look among my long-hair clients. The personalized, Wayne Grund, Founder of Surface Haircare. “When face-framing layers enhance an oval or heart- tailoring a bob, first consider the facial shape. If shaped face.” she has a softer chin, invert slightly to create the 1. Create the desired perimeter length. illusion of a stronger jaw line. For a natural feel, lightly weave sections in the outer perimeter with 2. Create a ½ inch profile section in the middle of the head, lift to 90 degrees and cut a short-to-long inversion (imagine a a razor, drawing it smoothly to the ends for soft staircase.) There should be no more than 6 to 8 inches from separation.” the shortest layer to the bottom length. 3. From the back, work in pivoting radial sections from ear to ear. 1. Comb hair to natural fall and establish the perimeter length. At the ears, overdirect the last corner of the section toward the 2. Create a long layer guide in the crown. Lift pivoting bottom corner of the hairline to maintain length. sections to this guide and cut. 4. Create a facial frame profile section from the top of the nose to 3. Using the original guide, work in vertical sections below the the crown. Create a diagonal back subsection 1½ to 2 inches round of the head and cut descending layers (short to long) into the hairline ending at the top of the ear. Overdirect with with a razor. tension and slide cut from short to long in a fluid motion with your scissors behind your fingers. Release the rest of the 4. Create a side part and frame the face with the razor on section and repeat. the side of the part to accent the cheekbones and jawline. Maintain as much length as possible. 5. Repeat on the opposite side. 5. Create a triangular fringe section off of the side parting, 6. Connect the layering from the shortest piece in the facial frame comb it forward, pinch the section with one hand and razor to the longest point from the back of the inversion in the top the fringe to the desired length. of the crown. Stand behind the client and start at the hairline where the roll meets the round of the scalp. Create a diagonal 6. Shape the side under the fringe on the opposite side of the section ending above the ear and over-direct to connect the parting. shortest facial frame layer to the back in one block section. 7. Shatter the entire perimeter for a natural, organic effect. 7. Apply Neuma Styling Mousse to damp roots. From midshaft 8. Apply Surface Trinity Protein Cream, blow dry the hair, to ends, apply a cocktail of Neuma Styling Gelé, Smoothing and create random texture with a large barrel iron using Crème and 4 to 6 drops of Argon Treatment. Blow-dry using Surface Theory Spray. Separate texture with Surface a classic torque and tension technique with a 1¼-inch thermal Shaping Wax. round brush, starting at the hairline. Finish with Neuma In- Control Medium Spray..