Ir BEAUTY + SUBSTANCE

The Men’s Guide to Style Hair & Face Finding the right hairstyle/facial hair combo is about much more than finding a picture in a magazine, it is a science. The first step to developing a look that works right for you, is understanding the different components and how they all fit together. So let’s start getting handsome!

ROUND OBLONG TRIANGLE/ SQUARE DIAMOND

We are going to start with the most basic of basics: face shape. This is usually square one in creating the basis for a signature look. Face shape can influence everything from haircut to optimal beard shape, so it’s helpful to have a good understanding of what your shape is considered. Here’s how you find out:

1. Grab a ruler or flexible tape measure (like the kind that tailors use).

2. Forehead: Pull the tape measure from the peak of one eyebrow arch to the peak of the opposite arch. Record that number.

3. Cheekbones: Measure across your upper cheeks, starting and ending at the sharp bump below the outer corner of each eye.

4. Jawline: Measure from the tip of your chin to the point below your ear where your jaw angles upward. Multiply that number by two.

5. Face length: Measure from the center of your hairline to the tip of your chin. Round

Round

Measurements: Cheekbones and face length have a similar measurement. They are larger than forehead and jawline, which also have a similar measurement. The angle of the jaw is soft.

Best haircuts: In general, you want to create the illusion of height, to balance out your shapes natural width. The best way of doing this is to keep things short (think a “1”) on the sides, and gradually fading up into a longer length on the top. If you want maximum height advantage, consider a messy tapered “v-cut” style, also known as the “faux hawk.”

If you prefer to keep your locks long, opt for a side, slightly diagonal part. The eye will follow the line of the parting, creating the illusion of a more angular shape. Also, layers are strongly advised for longer hair as they can help to draw the eye downward. Just be sure to start the shortest layer at least slightly below your chin.

Best beard shapes: A goatee with connecting mustache, or a closely trimmed short beard with defined edges. Both will create angles on a round face.

Credits: Hair: Embassy Artistic Team // Mark Joel Thompson, Keith Greenhill, Michael Clowes, Michael Jennings and Kirsty Gaunt Photography: Vikki Hughes at Vikki Hughes Photography Square

Measurements: All measurements are fairly similar. The angle of the jaw is sharp.

Best haircuts: Much like the oval face shape for women, yours is the most coveted of all the male face shapes you handsome, angular bastard. You have the freedom to explore the wilds of styling and cuts at your whim; the hair world is your oyster. Everything from bangs to man buns will complement a square face shape, but if you want a 100% safe bet, go for the undercut. Besides being the reigning style of the past three years (thank you, David Beckham), this highly versatile cut can be styled as conservatively or as alternatively as you wish, depending on your circumstances and mood.

Best beard shapes: If you would like to soften your jawline a little, opt for a full beard trimmed to a length just beyond your face. If you want to play up your square-ness, keep it short. A strong 5 o’clock shadow will draw the eye straight to your jaw.

Photo Credits: Hair: Joe Ribera Photographer: Simon Everiss Makeup: Lianne Clair Oblong

Measurements: Face length is largest. Forehead, cheekbones and jawline are similar in size.

Best haircuts: Unlike our first two face shapes, this one is all about adding width. Which means you want to take the first few notes we gave you, and do them in reverse. Keep the hair longer on the sides, and consider adding a long, sweeping bang. The diagonal line created by the bang will force the eye to travel outward.

If you prefer longer styles (which can look great on an oblong face, when executed properly) definitely opt for a bang and heavy up on your layering. The more you layer, the wider your hair will appear, which in turn, will add width to your face.

Best beard shapes: In general, you want to stay away from chin hair, this will draw the eye downward, making your face appear longer. A strong stubble or two day outgrowth can add fullness, to make the face look more balanced

Photo Credits: Hair by Jules Togini Triangle/Diamond

Measurements: Face length is largest. Then, in descending order: cheekbones, forehead, and smallest is jawline. The chin is pointed.

Best Haircuts: Again, we are talking about adding width here, so feel free to steal some notes from our oblong friends, with a few exceptions, bangs being one of them. Diamonds have a narrower forehead than an oblong face shape, which means that a severe, heavy bang can be overwhelming. In general, the best bet is to keep hair up and away from a diamond face. Having too much “hair interaction” can add to the narrow effect. The biggest takeaway for diamond shapes is to keep a focus on volume. A slicked-down Don Draper style will accentuate a shorter forehead, while a little more pomp and circumstance will keep the eye moving upward.

Best beard shapes: Your two best bets here are a goatee (either with or without a connecting mustache) or a full beard that goes just beyond your chin. The caveat to both is that you want to make sure that you keep the shape rounded as opposed to pointed. This will mask a pointed chin.

Photo Credits: Hair by Mary Alamine Tyv  Now, go forth and be handsome