The Triple Role of : Volume 25, Number 2 - Summer 2018 Insights from Syrian Refugees Submitted by Cathy Stevulak CreatingCreatingCreating AAa ConnectedConnected I met Yasmine Dabbous when screen- A laundry line with beautiful tile-like TextileTextileTextile CommunityCommunity Community ing the THREADS documentary film at the on ethereal fabric, and pic- United Nations Commission on the Status of Women meeting last Spring. Last year, To foster a global network ofTo enthusiastsfoster a global whonetwork value of the enthusiastsimportance who of value textiles the to importancegrassroots of textiles economies to grassroots economies

Exchange information

Raise awarenessExchange information of the impor- tures of smiling women and children ro- tance of traditions to tating on the wall behind it. Such was the Raisegrassroots awareness of economies the importance first impres- textile traditions to grassroots Mobilize textile enthusiasts sion visitors economies Yasmine spent time with Syrian refugees had when they MobilizeCreate textile conversations enthusiasts in Beirut and with organizations and indi- looked at Yas- that result in action viduals who are empowering female refu- mine Dabbous’ Create conversations that result in installation at action the Museum at FIT in New York Textiles are an important City. component of the human But a closer Textiles are anexperience. important component look told a dif- of the human experience. ferent story, Networking and sharing informationNetworking and creates sharing an information environ- hiding behind mentcreates for constructivean environment action. for the smiles constructive action. projected on Making connections the wall. The Kinship Stories necklace Makingbetween Connections textile artisans between gees. This article is about an installation piece is a com- featuring vintage textileworldwide artisans worldwide promotes promotes that she created at the Museum at the mentary on the Turkoman tassel, Rabari positivepositive social change. change. Fashion Institute of Technology upon her predicament embroidery from India, and Interacting with people who have return to New York. Ottoman 19th-century coins. Interacting with people who similarhave values similar enriches values our lives. continued on page 6 enriches our lives. 1 WARP Newsletter - Summer 2018 Clothing Line Benefits Alpaca Villages Introduction by Janice Knausenberger; translation by Deborah Chandler This February, my husband and I had a nities are suppliers of classified according fantastic trip to Ecuador. A new friend told to international standards. In addition, more me about the finest quality 100% alpaca than seventy women spinners of the Jatari clothing made in Ecuador and arranged for us to visit. Paqocha has a shop in Tumbaco, one of the suburbs of Quito. Susana manages the shop which is filled with knitted and hand- WARP Newsletter woven clothing made with local handspun published quarterly by alpaca. Susana Weave A Real Peace custom sewed a Volume 25, Number 2 handspun, hand- Summer 2018 woven poncho for Campesino, La Moya, and Royal Palace commu- Editor: Linda Temple me and I picked it nities of the province of Chimborazo transform up just before we the pure fiber of alpaca into thread and make Send address left to return to the the necessary corrections to: US. This poncho is material for 15 [email protected] a dream to wear. women weavers or mail to It has a flattering to develop fab- Weave a Real Peace drape and cut. I rics that I design. c/o 6182 Pollard Avenue East Lansing, MI 48823 hardly notice that Paqocha main- I am wearing it be- tains a fair pay- cause it is so lightweight, and I am always ment process for alpaca communities, The deadline for comfortably warm when I wear it. women, and weavers. More than 100 families contributions to the I found their well photographed story on can improve their Fall issue of the WARP their website http://paqochaecuador.com/teje- income and recover newsletter is doras/ I used Google Translate to learn more ancestral care prac- July 27, 2018 while being in awe of how much they have tices of the envi- done to promote quality alpaca clothing. Paqo- ronment, as well as Send articles and cha is definitely a continuing to spin correspondence for gem waiting for us and weave. New the newsletter to: to discover. Here is generations see Linda Temple from information this as an opportunity to stay and work in the 1230 NE 70 Oklahoma City, OK 73111 about the organiza- countryside and not necessarily to migrate to [email protected] tion that I received cities. 405/478-4936 (phone) via a letter from “For us it is a great joy to have clients who Lorena Perez at value the alpaca fiber work process in Ecuador, Pagocha: and take the Information about an “It is a pleasure for us that you like your best that the organization or service in Paqocha garment! country has in this newsletter does not “Paqocha is a small Ecuadorian com- a high quality constitute an endorsement pany created by Felipe Segovia and me fabric within by WARP. in 2006. It is part of the alpaca fiber value a purely ar- chain in the Sierras of Ecuador. Indigenous tisanal pro- Submissions may be communities that own alpacas include cess. Paqocha has participated in various edited or shortened at the discretion of the editor. Asociación Asaraty, Chorrera Mirador, fashion events such as the Ethical Fashion Jatari Campesino, La Moya in the province Show-Paris 2007, 2009, 2010; Ecochic Fash- of Chimborazo, Comuna Zuleta and Cajas ion Show in Geneva, Basel and Singapore in the province of Imbabura, Tushin Burga – 2010, and through the Ibero-American and Pilisurco in Cañar. All of these commu- Design Biennial in Madrid 2016.” With a fraternal greeting, Lorena Perez 2 WARP Newsletter - Summer 2018 Register Now for WARP’s 2018 Annual Meeting in Decorah, IA We’re filling up quickly, but there is still publication of Moroccan Women Artisans Weave A Real Peace room to join us! We invite you to WARP’s by our own Susan Schaefer Davis; a recep- Membership Information www.weavearealpeace.org 25th Anniversary Annual Meeting in Dec- tion at Vesterheim, the Norwegian-Ameri- orah, IA, June 8-10. Go to http://weavea- can Museum in Decorah; and WARP’s own 2018 Annual Dues realpeace.org, and then to Annual Meet- 25th Anniversary party and Live Auction. $50 - Individual in US/Canada ing, then click on Decorah, IA. Contact An Artisan Market and a Silent Auction $90 - 2 year special - Individual US/ Rita Chapman for any questions at info@ will be ongoing during the meeting. Plan Canada weavearealpeace.org. Don’t delay - regis- to come with money to spend and items $40 - International Individual Simple living - Choose an amount tration closes on May 18! to donate. you can live with The meeting’s theme is Sustaining Cul- Check the WARP website to see profiles ture: Environment, Economy, Community. of our invited speakers. Tours to Vesterhe- $50 - Guilds/Organization Interesting speakers and tours are planned im and to the Seed Savers Exchange will $30 - Sister/Gift Subscriptions and a party atmosphere will prevail with a also be highlights of the meeting. See you $75 - Business reception by Thrums Books to honor the there! $75 - Supporting Individual $100 - Friend of WARP $150+ - Patron of WARP

All memberships are for 12 months, and Annual Meeting Agenda What’s in this Issue expire 12 months from date of joining. Sunday, June 10, 2018 Triple Role of Textiles: Insights Members have access to Luther College from Syrian Refugees...... 1 annual Membership Decorah, IA Directory through a secure Alpaca Clothing in Ecuador...... 2 ‘members-only’ section of the web The Annual Business Meeting will take WARP Bulletin Board...... 3 site, a quarterly newsletter, and can place Sunday morning, June 10 during Member Profile: Barbara Scott...... 5 participate in the WARP Google Discussion Group. brunch, with the following agenda: Auctions at Annual Meeting...... 5 Carol Hayman Exhibit...... 6 Dues are used for printing, mailing, * Presentation and request for approval and office expenses. Weave A Real of 2017 meeting minutes New Members...... 6, 7 Peace (WARP) is designated a 501(c)(3) * Presentation and request for approval Textile Techniques: Jordan - Camel nonprofit organization by the Internal of financial report Hair Shawl (and more)...... 7 Revenue Service. All donations to WARP * Old Business are tax deductible in the From the WARP President...... 8 United States. Progress on Strategic Plan: Structure, 2019 WARP Meeting in DC...... 8 Public Conversations, Advance For membership or additional informa- Leadership Marketplace at Annual Meeting... 8 tion, please send your name, address, * New Business WARP Budgets 2017-2018...... 9 telephone number, and email address Special Focus: Membership Alice Brown Scholars Named...... 10 with appropriate check, money order, Plans for 2019 Annual Meeting or Paypal information in US funds Thrums Books Receive Awards....10 payable to WARP to: Election of Board Members Thanks to Donors...... 10 Thanks to retiring Board Members Weave a Real Peace * Adjournment Travels...... 10 c/o 6182 Pollard Avenue Nominating Committee East Lansing, MI 48823 For other meeting updates and the Presents Slate...... 11 conference agenda, check WARPs web- or join online at Threads Around the World!!...... 11 site at http://www.weavearealpeace.org http://www.weavearealpeace.org Katyi Ya’a Urgent Appeal...... 12

WARP Newsletter - Summer 2018 3 WARP Bulletin Board !!!! Networking is what we do.

VOLUNTEER POSITIONS WARP Governing Greeters at Annual Meeting Board Do you enjoy seeing friends old and new arrive at Annual Meeting? Join us at the Regis- Philis Alvic tration Desk and help register, greet and orient new arrivals. One to two hour shifts, mostly Lexington, KY Friday. Contact Barbara at [email protected] to sign up. [email protected] Term expires 2018 WARP Membership Committee We are seeking a few individuals with ideas and experience in membership develop- Judi Jetson ment to join the Membership Committee, focused on member recruitment, retention, and Weaverville, NC engagement. WARP has a special mission and we feel that there are lots of others out there [email protected] Term expires 2019 in both the textile and community development fields who share our interests and goals and would like to be members. How do we find these people? How do we better engage Sara Lamb the members that we already have? The immediate mission of the Membership Committee Grass Valley, CA will be to design and implement a comprehensive plan to address those questions. We will [email protected] be working by conference call and email. Interested? Contact: Philis Alvic (philis@philisalvic. Term expires 2019 info) or Barbara Scott ([email protected]), Co-Chairs, Membership Committee Judy Newland Berthoud, CO PAID POSITIONS [email protected] (Post your opening here next issue!) Term expires 2018 MATERIALS SOUGHT/AVAILABLE Barbara Scott (Have a community textile project that needs supplies? Tell us, and see it listed here next Media, PA [email protected] issue.) Term expires 2020 CONNECTING Karen Searle Support for Katyi Ya’a Coop, Oaxaca St. Paul, MN Several members of the women’s textile cooperative Katyi Ya’a in Oaxaca lost their [email protected] homes in recent earthquakes. WARP member Margaret MacSems is assisting the coop’s Term expires 2018 collective rebuilding efforts. See the article on page 12. Susan Weltman ------Brooklyn, NY This Bulletin Board is for all of us and by all of us. Know of a job coming open in [email protected] textiles/ community development? Maybe your organization needs an intern? Do you Term expires 2019 have a community textile project that could use material supplies or perhaps you have a closet full of supplies you want to send to a worthy project? Post it here. Contact Rita Chapman Barbara Scott [email protected] with your listings. Deadline for Fall Issue: Administrative Coordinator July 25. [email protected] Newsletter Copy Deadlines V25N3 - Fall 2018 – July 27 V25N4 - Winter 2018 – October 19 Save these dates and send your contributions to the Newsletter! Contact me at [email protected] if you have questions. Thanks!

4 WARP Newsletter - Summer 2018 Member Profile Barbara Scott: “Practicing ancient ...links us across the globe and throughout human history” Gloria Miller Auctions! “Practicing ancient fiber art techniques programs where she worked as a teach- WARP’s major fundraisers links us to people across the globe and er, grant writer, college director, human are the auctions, both Silent throughout human history. When I dip a rights advocate, researcher, and hospital- and Live, that are held at piece of fabric based therapist. Some programs were the annual meeting. The I’ve woven into a directly fiber related but most promote Live Auction, which takes place on Saturday evening, dye made from human rights, women’s empowerment, will feature special items plants I’ve nur- and conservation. She homeschooled her selected by the Board. The tured, I feel like son from 4th grade through high school Silent Auction consists of I’m a part of an and his fascination with color and pattern items donated by mem- endless led them to work on patterns at age bers—gently used ethnic of human inge- five and backstrap in Guatemala textiles and textile-related nuity and histo- at age nine where they both learned from items. The Silent Auction will ry. I’m awestruck, a Mayan neighbor. They also enjoyed run throughout the meeting, and grateful that mathematical structures (such as ending Saturday afternoon. other people fig- tori, or donut-shapes). Please peruse your textile and textile-related treasures ured these things out! At the same time I One of her most fun jobs was a two- and donate generously so know that while—for me—fiber arts are month project as a team with her husband this can be a successful a wonderful enhancement to my life and and young adult son in Costa Rica where auction. mental health, they are also a choice that they worked for a non-profit conservation If you are attending the arises from my privilege. I can experiment program researching and producing trail meeting, you can bring your with color and texture, make gifts to ex- maps and developing publicity materials. auction items with you. If press affection, process experiences, and As Barbara and her husband begin to not, contact Linda Temple, learn historical methods, but it is always prepare their retirement home, she al- [email protected], and optional, not a necessity.” ready has a stand of willow being readied we will make arrangements One of our most recent members to for basketmaking and has plans to buy for sending items. Those of you who are at- join the board comes with a rich back- her first floor loom. tending the meeting, please ground including Latin American Studies, Meanwhile, she is grateful to be part be sure to set aside funds Occupational Therapy, and most recently of the WARP community with its unique for all those fabulous textile Master Watershed Steward. Barbara’s and deep understanding of both tradi- items you won’t want to life-long connection with textiles seems tional textiles and development issues. pass up. like one special lens that has guided her She looks forward to continuing to help perspective of creativity as well as view build our networking among artisans and of economic development. She is mostly their allies. self-taught in textiles and admits to many Barbara is happy to connect with years of dabbling in most areas of fiber WARP members by email at Milkweedgar- arts, yet comes with a deep awareness [email protected] that her entry into craft comes from a po- Gloria Miller is a Sister of Mercy and has been sition of choice and not of necessity. working with a knitting group in Peru for many Barbara and her husband have lived in years. She became connected with WARP when Media, PA outside Philadelphia for almost she started weaving in 2006 and continues to 30 years punctuated by work stints in enjoy weaving and her weaving connections all Guatemala, Costa Rica, and El Salvador. over the world. She can be reached at She has been an administrator and [email protected] educator in a variety of not-for-profit

WARP Newsletter - Summer 2018 5 Carol Hayman Photo Exhibit in Antigua, Guatemala If you happen to be in Antigua, Guate- ers is Ruth Nohemi Sagache. Ruth and mala in May, stop by the Casa Herrera to her family weave various kinds of textiles see an exhibition of 25 photos by WARP including huipiles and table runners. She Welcome to member Carol Hayman. “Handmade – sells her work in the main square around New Members Hecho a Mano” are photographs of ar- the park in Antigua and takes visitors to tisans in and around Antigua, which are her home in San Antonio Aguas Calien- Gay Allan Iowa City, IA the result of a three-week residency at the tes. There will be an artist’s reception May Casa last summer. The University of Texas 17th at 6:00 p.m. The Casa is one block Kate Banner awards residencies to scholars and artists north of the main plaza of Antigua at 4a Jackson Hts, NY who can immerse themselves in the quiet Avenida Norte, No. 9. Casa Herrera is an atmosphere of a historic colonial building extension of The Mesoamerica Center at Barbara Berg in the heart of the old capital. The photos UT’s Department of Art and Art History. I Weave What I Believe depict local craft makers, which include You can find more information at https:// Decorah, IA potters, wood carvers, wrought iron casaherreraexhibition.weebly.com/ workers, and weavers. One of the weav- Penelope Boling Manchester, MA

Melissa Brown Triple Role of Textiles Oneota Weavers and continued from page 1 Spinners Guild of Syrian refugees, but also the hope that through a universal element: the smile. Decorah, IA textiles bring to this community. “These smiles reflect the resilience and “Being born and raised during the Civil strength of refugees,” the artist explained. Aaron Burmeister War in Beirut, I have experienced the de- Textile art is not new to Dabbous. She Seed Savers structive effect of war in a very profound is the founder of Kinship Stories, a line of Decorah, IA way,” Dabbous explained. tribal art jewelry made with vintage and An estimated 11 million Syrians have antique materials collected worldwide Laura Demuth fled their homes since the outbreak of the (see photo page 1). “I see each necklace Decorah, IA civil war seven years ago. According to as a story,” she said. “My work with Kinship Karen Fink Dabbous, textiles play a triple role in the Stories is a call to celebrate artisanship Southern California lives of these refugees. They are the few and revive an understanding of its worth Handweavers' Guild clothes that recall home and keep the tac- and its value.” Sherman Oaks, CA tile memory alive. They also allow Syrian “Because they come from a variety of refugees to make a living; often unable cultures, my necklaces also foster an un- Laurann Gilbertson to join the formal economy, women use derstanding of the other – which is really Vesterheim Norwegian- their skills to earn money. The re- much needed today,” Dabbous added. American Museum petitive nature of also pro- The Lebanese artist said she rarely Decorah, IA vides refugees with a sense of safety and works on projects of ‘art for the sake of calm. art.’ “Perhaps because I grew up during Brad Gilchrist Oneota Weavers and Dabbous explored these notions the war, it is always important for me to Spinners Guild through an installation representing a make art that enlightens and inspires,” she Iowa City, IA laundry line, with hanging chiffon pieces, said. on top of which she printed refugee ap- For more information about Kinship Mary Glock plication forms and embroidered pat- Stories, see www.kinshipstoriesproject.com Oneota Weavers and terns from Damascus tiles. Cathy Stevulak is a Canadian filmmaker whose Spinners Guild “I insisted on embroidering the pieces interest in textiles goes back to early childhood. Decorah, IA myself because I wanted to go through Prior to filmmaking, Cathy was Senior Gover- continued on page 7 the experience and to represent it with nance Adviser with United Nations Development integrity,” Dabbous said. Programme in Bangladesh and has lived and The pictures projected on the wall worked internationally for over 20 years. She can affirm the humanity of Syrian refugees be reached at [email protected]

6 WARP Newsletter - Summer 2018 By: Deborah Brandon

More Jordan—Camel Hair Shawl (and more) New Members Sensing a tourist trap, I was reluctant The proprietor, Zaid Farajat, main- Mari Gray to enter Sita Souvenir. But I was unable tained that all the items in the shop were Kakaw Designs to resist the draw of ethnic textiles. A pile made in Jordan and proceeds from the Walnut Creek, CA of Suzani-style shawls looked interesting, sales went towards the Noor Al Hussein and I’m always on the market for interest- Foundation (NHF). Lucy Hansen Tipton, IA ing keffiyahs with cultural significance. The NHF, a non-profit NGO, was found- We were traveling through Jordan. On ed in 1985 by Queen Noor of Jordan. Ac- Karen Holloway our way to the city of Petra, the capital of cording to the NHF official website, the Poughkeepsie, NY the Nabataean empire (400 B.C. to 106 foundation’s mission is to facilitate lasting A.D.), made famous by the movie Indiana change in underprivileged communities Chara Itoka Jones and the Last Crusade, we stopped by creating self-sustaining economic op- The Itoka Group at what looked like a high end gift shop. portunities. Cambridge, MA A handsome Bedouin promptly led Naturally, Zaid’s assertion piqued my me right over to a pile of breathtaking interest and helped me rationalize spend- Terry Mattison shawls, probably the most expensive ing more money than I had budgeted for Longview, WA the trip—I bought the gorgeous shawl. items in the store—he must have noticed Bryan Mock my eyes drinking in the textiles lining the Distracted by the beautiful textiles around Fallow Space walls. me, I didn’t think to Springville, IA He spread them out in front of me, one ask what portion of after the other. They were glorious—the the proceeds went Diane Nesselhuf silk embroidery, the woven camel hair to NHF. Friends of Sharing the background, so soft. And the colors… The trip was more Dream in Guatemala The skilled salesman proceeded to educational than I Vermillion, SD wrap a cream colored shawl around my could have imag- head, probably knowing full well that ined. In addition to Athena Pallis The Peace Pillow Project, LLC learning more about I would have trouble leaving the store Missoula, MT without it. The silk embroidery was ex- Jordan, the Bed- quisite—peacock colored leaves flaming ouin, and the Nabataeans, I learned that Md Rashaduzzaman outward in the shape of a sun. affection can be quantified—Zaid offered Lincoln, NE I questioned his claim that the shawl me a dowry of 2,000 camels. I also learned was hand embroidered and the fabric the importance of reading the fine print— Wendy Stevens handwoven. The chain embroidery he stipulated that I must produce at least Oneota Weavers and seemed too even. After examining the 12 children. Spinners Guild back, to my disappointment I concluded Decorah, IA that it was indeed machine embroidered, Resources http://www.nooralhusseinfoundation.org/ Virginia Westheider albeit skillfully. I also suspected that the Batavia, OH background fabric was not handwoven. Genevieve Belmaker, Moon Israel & the Like the embroidery, the weaving was West Bank, Perseus Books, 2016 flawless, including the selvedges. The Queen Noor, Leap of Faith: Memoirs of fringe, on the other hand was definitely an Unexpected Life, Miramax, 2005 hand-finished, and no two shawls were Deborah Brandon is a multi-talented math- alike. The shawls were the creation of cot- ematician and former board member. She can tage industry. be reached at 412/963-7416 or at [email protected]

WARP Newsletter - Summer 2018 7 From WARP’s President Susan Weltman Judging by wandering in NYC, we are derer, although I greatly admire that skill. seeing an explosion of interest in textiles, But I was eager to meet Wafa and to learn Marketplace with a greater appreciation of the place who was signing up for this class in Brook- Would you like to have a that they play in our lives. This is fascinat- lyn. I also recently wandered by a new space in our International ing for me as a museum goer and follow- store that teaches spinning and weaving; Marketplace this year? It will er of recent trends. (If you are able to visit the availability of rigid heddle looms has be back in full swing on both New York check out the exhibit, Fabricat- greatly opened up the possibility of weav- Friday, June 8th and Satur- ing Power with Balinese Textiles at the Bard ing to people living in small apartments. day, June 9th and so far we Graduate Center AND The Decorative After I've enjoyed meeting WARP members have six very special vendors Miriam Schapiro at the Museum of Art and living in Brooklyn. I visited Cynthia Alberto signed up: Design.) I also think it is good for the world, who has turned Weaving Hand into much good for the artisans among us, and those more than a weaving school; look up the Dorinda Dutcher with about whom we are concerned. And, I sure website, www.weavinghand.com, to learn Bolivian textiles from PAZA think we can use some good news. more (especially her very exciting work at The cover of Handwoven, March/April the Museum of Art and Design this Spring). Lynn Persson with 2018 announces “A Community of Cloth: This week I had the opportunity to meet Guatemalan textiles from Weaving an Identity.” Of course, we at WARP Anush Mirbegian who has just moved to Terra Experience are not only handweavers (some of us); we Barcelona where she is producing alparga- have a community of those who support tas (cloth for the uninitiated). Anush Mary Hark with Kumasi textile workers world wide, and potters, is working with artisans and purchasing paper from Ghana basket makers, and activists. In my efforts handwoven textiles from a variety of coun- Elisha Renne with Queen to connect with more of our community tries. Again, check out her website, www. Amina Embroidery I've not only continued meeting WARP esparta.casa members as I travel or at home but also am My next journey will be to Berkeley Diana Nesselhuf with making an effort to meet a craft community Springs, WV where I'll visit Mary Joan Ferr- Guatemalan textiles from that is new to me. (Oh, the incredible plea- ara-Marsland. We're going to look through Sharing the Dream sures of retirement and free time!) the baskets contributed by Jane Hahn and Several weeks ago I took an embroidery choose those to be auctioned in IA, some- Mary Ann Wise with class from a Palestinian embroiderer, Wafa thing to look forward to. From there to international textiles from Ghnaim, author of Tatreez & Tea: Embroi- Asheville, NC where Deidre Adams and I Cultural Cloth dery and Storytelling in the Palestinian will visit Judi Jetson. Again, the pleasures of Diaspora. I am not about to become an retirement – and of having such wonderful Please send me an email if outstanding – or even very good – embroi- WARP members and friends to visit! you’re interested in joining the Marketplace so I know how many tables and how much space to reserve. Washington, DC To Be Site of 2019 Annual Meeting There is no charge, but we Susan Weltman ask vendors to make a We are very excited to inform mem- sibly the Renwick Gallery and/or the new contribution to WARP of bers of our plans to hold our 2019 Annual Museum of African American History. It 10% of sales. Meeting in Washington, DC. We have will be easy for those who wish to book booked rooms and meeting space at the rooms both before and after the meet- Judi Jetson, VP & Georgetown Hotel and Conference Center ing if you want to spend more time in Marketplace Coordinator (http://www.acc-guhotelandconference- DC. We've just learned that the Smithson- [email protected] center.com/), a lovely hotel in a terrific ian Folk Life Festival (an annual event neighborhood. Janice Knausenberger, with different countries featured each Louise Meyer, and I visited three possi- year) will be held that weekend. Another bilities before choosing Georgetown; we reason to stay another day. We are look- love the facilities – and we know the food ing for members who would like to be is terrific! We are hoping to arrange a pri- on the planning committee; contact me, vate tour of the Textile Museum and pos- [email protected]

8 WARP Newsletter - Summer 2018 WARP Budgets - 2017-2018, with Explanations submitted by Philis Alvic, Board Treasurer

2017 Budget 2017 Actual 2018 2017 2017 Actual 2018 Budget Budget Budget INCOME OPERATING EXPENSES Dues $15,000.00 $11,335.00 $12,500.00 Books, subscriptions, $50.00 $44.00 $100.00 memberships Silent Auction $0.00 $0.00 $2,000.00 Communications - $300.00 $100.99 $200.00 websites, blogs, etc. Donations $500.00 $5,107.00 $4,000.00 FSB Bank Fees $118.04 $100.00 Scholarships & $300.00 $1,647.62 $2,000.00 Misc. expenses $0.00 $87.96 $100.00 Assistantships Annual Meeting Fees $28,100.00 $21,605.00 $9,500.00 Office Supplies, $1,100.00 $119.44 $250.00 Software, Technology Interest $100.00 $282.84 $300.00 Operations - Printing & $213.55 $200.00 Copying PayPal Fees $1,000.00 $791.90 $1,000.00 TOTAL INCOME $44,000.00 $39,977.46 $30,300.00 Postage, Mailing Service $150.00 $250.04 $250.00 Total $2,600.00 $1,725.92 $2,200.00 EXPENSES ANNUAL MEETING $26,496.00 SPECIAL WARP PROJECTS Catering $4,131.18 $2,000.00 Artisan Resource Guide $0.00 $0.00 Insurance $0.00 $200.00 Board Planning Retreat $4,899.20 $2,717.61 Facilities $9,640.00 Brandon Book $3,818.25 $3,117.50 $701.00 Lodging $4,107.13 $1,000.00 Membership & $1,000.00 $250.00 $1,000.00 Marketing Misc. Expenses $545.56 $650.00 Donation from WARP $13.60 Board Expenses $1,500.00 $1,753.02 $4,150.00 Scholarship & $0.00 $200.00 $2,000.00 Total $9,717.45 $6,098.71 $1,701.00 Assistantships Speaker Fees $1,108.50 $700.00 Staff Travel $1,841.00 $872.17 $800.00 TOTAL EXPENSES $54,254.45 $42,806.97 $30,401.00 Total $29,837.00 $22,357.56 $11,500.00 Profit/Loss -$10,254.45 -$2,829.51 -$101.00 CONTRACT SERVICES Administrative $7,800.00 $7,150.00 $8,450.00 Checking $5,931.87 Coordinator Graphic Designer $0.00 $250.00 Savings $1,026.72 Newsletter Editor $1,200.00 $1,500.00 $1,200.00 Endowment $27,858.73 Web Designer $81.00 $500.00 Operating $20,868.92 Fund Total $9,000.00 $8,731.00 $10,400.00

NEWSLETTER $2,900.00 Postage $200.00 $398.27 $600.00 Printing $3,448.01 $4,000.00 Shipping $6.65 Supplies for Mailing $40.85 Total $3,100.00 $3,893.78 $4,600.00

Explanation WARP has income from three main sources—member Our expenses for the next year have been based on pre- dues, annual meeting fees, and donations. Unlike many other vious expenditures and on priorities that the Board has set organizations, WARP does not plan to derive income from for the coming year. Volunteers do most tasks of maintain- their annual meeting. Meeting costs are based on estimates ing the organization, but we do pay an administrative co- of expenses. ordinator and newsletter editor. The administrative costs This year our annual meeting will be held in Decorah, are very low. While the newsletter is a significant expense, IA and Luther College will be paid directly for housing and it is a major benefit for all of the members. Some members meals. These expenses are usually rolled into the registration have elected to have the newsletter delivered electronically, fee for the meeting. That is why the income and expenses which does save both funds and resources. seem so low compared with previous years. WARP Newsletter - Summer 2018 9 Two Receive Alice Brown Memorial Scholarships Kelsey Wiskirchen We are excited to announce the two ulum, which all schools must satisfy. Hellen outstanding recipients of the Alice Brown writes, “During this time, I also have contin- Thanks to Donors! Memorial Scholarship. At the WARP Meet- ued to question the distinctions made be- Susan Davis ing in June, we will hear both of these tween art and craft and the inclusivity of art Teena Jennings-Rentenaar scholarship recipients speak about their in representing female and Mayan bodies Anne Kelly work and research, and we are thrilled to and voices.” Judy Newland welcome them into the WARP community. Md Rashaduzzaman is currently a PhD Congratulations to Hellen María Ascoli and student in the Department of Textiles, Mer- Md Rashaduzzaman. chandising & Fashion Design at the Univer- Hellen María Ascoli is a Guatemalan sity of Nebraska-Lincoln. Md received his Travels artist and weaver currently living in Madi- Bachelor's and Master's degrees in Textile 2018 Crafts & Festivals: son, WI. From 2014 - 2017, Helen was the Engineering from Bangladesh University. Colombia and Mexico Director of Education at Ixchel Museum of While a student in his home country of Ban- Indigenous Dress, where she developed gladesh, Md participated in a research proj- We’d love to have you join an educational outreach program called ect where he visited twelve textile factories, us this year on our Colombia “The Story of a Thread.” In 2016, she raised working with dyers, owners, and special- and Mexico crafts & festival money to write a teacher’s resource book ists to determine the best eco-friendly and experiences. for the transmission of cultural heritage. cost-effective effluent (liquid waste) treat- This book furthers the research methodol- ment method to protect the environment Expo Artesanias: Medellin & ogy of "The Story of a Thread.” She visited from pollution. His goal was to share the re- Cartagena, Colombia multiple weaving communities in Guate- search study outcome with factory owners, June 27- July 5, 2018 mala, focusing on the knowledge embed- students, experts, and to encourage the Afro-Colombia & The ded in the back-strap loom; its techniques, owners to install the system found to be Petronio Alvarez Music designs, and history. Upon its publication the most protective system. Md presented Festival: Cali & Cartagena, in 2018, this resource will provide teachers his findings at the Symposium on Textile Colombia with methods for connecting the Mayan and Apparel Technology, where he received August 16 - August 24 textile tradition to the national base curric- multiple awards for his research.

Day of the Dead: Michoacan, Mexico Thrums Books Receive National Awards October 27 - Nov 4, 2018 Karen Brock Thrums Books (www.ThrumsBooks.com) Littrell received a Silver Award in the Mul- The Art of the Charro & received high honors in the prestigious ticultural category, and Secrets of Spinning, Tequila with Feria Maestros Independent Book Publishers Association Weaving, and Knitting in the Peruvian High- del Arte: Jalisco, Mexico (IBPA) Benjamin Franklin Award program, November 3 - 11th 2018 lands by Nilda Callañaupa Alvarez received now in its thirtieth year. Gold and Silver a Silver Award in the Craft/Hobby category. award winners were announced in a cer- Textile Traditions: Oaxaca This is the fourth year that Thrums Books Coast & Isthmus & Chiapas emony in Austin, TX on April 6, 2018. The has earned both Gold and Silver Awards Highlands, Mexico esteemed indie book award program rec- through the Benjamin Franklin program. November 17 - 30th, 2018 ognizes excellence in editorial content, The eight award-winning books are part of photography, and design. From about a series of multicultural titles that celebrate For more information about 1,500 entries, one gold winner was named textile traditions of indigenous communi- these tours, contact Stepha- in each of fifty-four categories. Silver win- ties worldwide. The books are distributed nie Schneiderman at http:// ners were also named in each category internationally and are also available at Cloth- tiastephanietours.com/ (www.ibpabenjaminfranklinawards.com). Roads.com, Barnes & Noble, Amazon, and Thrums Books received three awards: independent bookstores worldwide. Silk Weavers of Hill Tribe Laos: Textile, Tradi- All of these authors are, or have been, tion, and Well-Being by Joshua Hirschstein WARP members, as is Thrums Books’ pub- and Maren Beck was honored with the Gold lisher Linda Ligon. Award in the Travel category; Embroidering Summaries of each of these award-win- within Boundaries: Afghan Women Creat- ning books are in the Fall 2017 issue of the ing a Future by Rangina Hamidi and Mary WARP Newsletter. 10 WARP Newsletter - Summer 2018 Committee Presents Slate for Board Nominees WARP’s April blog introduced a new Carrie states that “Through this intern- board member and two nominees. Janice ship process, I was able to participate in a G. Knausenberger will fulfill the term left strategic planning meeting with the WARP open by the resignation of Devik Wyman. board. I was very inspired by all the behind- Mariana Mace and Carrie Miller have been the-scenes enthusiasm for the continued nominated to run for two open board po- health of the organization. sitions and, if approved by the member- “As a WARP board member I would look ship at the Annual Meeting in June, both forward to being a liaison to other young will serve on the WARP board for three-year members and I have several ideas for proj- terms. Nominations will also be accepted ects that could build on the Young Mem- from the floor. bers’ Initiative. I feel purposeful and com- fortable in the WARP community and would Mariana Mace be so honored to be a board member of this I have been a loom weaver for almost fifty organization.” years and a basket weaver for more than twenty. My academic background Janice G. Knausenberger is in anthropology, textiles, I grew up in California, graduating from Cal Native American art his- Poly, San Luis Obispo, in Biology. I received Threads Around the World: tory, and museology. I’ve my Master’s in Entomol- From Arabian Weaving to loved collecting and then ogy from Virginia Tech in Zimbabwe regifting world textiles for and took short courses a very long time. in basics of weaving and by Deb Brandon I was a Special Educa- spinning, courses that with photos by Joe Coca tion teacher and testing helped change my life. Available November 2018 specialist for fifteen years. Then I became I raised my family, involved with the Jensen Arctic Museum at wove, and worked in Deb Brandon, who has Western Oregon University as a volunteer, St. Croix, USVI; MD; and written the Textile Techniques column in the board member, and finally curator/director Kenya. In Kenya I worked with local weav- WARP Newsletter for for fifteen years until I retired. ers on techniques, production, and design 12 years, has compiled a I became a WARP member very early on. while continuing to produce new pieces on selection of 25 textile I remember being totally awestruck at the my own looms. I consulted on silk with ICIPE techniques for this book. breadth of experience and commitment (International Consortium of Insect Physiol- The book will be used as a that was evident from the first conference ogy and Ecology) in Nairobi. I wrote an ar- fundraiser for WARP. I attended. I’ve been a delighted witness to ticle with Laura Lemunyete on the Revival of the influx of new and younger members, Rendille/Samburu Baskets of Northern Kenya. expecially the students. It would be a plea- My years in Africa were filled with discovery, sure to serve on the board. inspiration, and new friends. In 2010 we returned to MD where I was Carrie Miller later elected President of the Weaver’s Guild Carrie Miller is a textile artist and sculp- of Greater Baltimore. I continue to create art tor currently living in CO. Carrie is the cur- through my , pushing limits and rent Graduate exhibiting and selling my work. I continue Teaching Assistant at to travel to Kenya and am energized when Colorado State Univer- others share what they know in the fiber sity and will be gradu- arts and love sharing what I know. ating with her MFA in I embrace the fact that WARP reaches May 2018. She attend- out to youth and hope we can more heart- ed the Annual Meeting ily find ways to learn from and encourage in Santa Fe as a schol- groups who bring different ways of seeing arship recipient and interned with WARP the fiber arts and weaving. I am particularly during 2016-2017. Part of her internship interested in weaving from the continent of with WARP was researching and writing a Africa. Young Members’ Initiative. WARP Newsletter - Summer 2018 11 Weave a Real Peace c/o 6182 Pollard Avenue East Lansing, MI 48823

Registration for WARP’s 2018 Annual Meeting Ends May 18! Katyi Ya’a Artisans Have Urgent Need for Support Following Earthquakes in Mexico Margaret MacSems On March 24th I drove the 10 hours to San Juan Col- of cardboard still stands, but the walls that were made of orado, Oaxaca, to assess the earthquake damage to the piled-up bricks fell down. Now she has no walls at all. houses of the artisans of Katyi Ya'a. I heard that dam- Whether living with family or all alone, many of the ages from the February 16th quake were minimal, even Katyi Ya’a artisans are among the most vulnerable mem- though the magnitude was 7.2 and the epicenter less bers of the community, which is on the whole a highly than 30 miles away. marginalized population. This is in part due to the age of the members. Spinning is a fading art practiced almost entirely by women between 50 and 80 years old. Our plan is to build-in resilience to earthquake damage of the future, be cost effective, and create important local jobs. We will send community members to be trained in ecological construction and repair (on-site learning/ doing volunteer construction in Juchitan, the site of mas- sive earthquake destruction in September 2017). In ad- dition to repairing as many homes as possible, the new houses will be built from local materials by local people. By the time you read this, we will have started our Go- fundme campaign “Earthquake Aid to Weavers in Oaxaca.” In total 13 of the 25 Katyi Ya’a artisans have inadequate If you would like to donate please do so through the Go- or seriously damaged housing. I became uncomfortably fundme site. If you would like more information or would aware that four of the 25 Katyi Ya’a spinners/weavers like to participate in some other way please contact Mar- didn't really have a house even before the earthquake; garet MacSems in Oaxaca: [email protected] or via elder master spinner Otilia being one of them. Her roof FB messenger.

12 WARP Newsletter - Summer 2018