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The Journal of the Asian Arts Society of Australia VOLUME 23 NO. VOLUME SEPTEMBER 2014 3 THE JOURNAL OF THE ASIAN ARTS SOCIETY OF AUSTRALIA TAASA Review CELEBRATING 20 YEARS OF TEXTILE STUDY CONTENTS Volume 23 No. 3 September 2014 3 EDITORIAL: CELEBRATING 20 YEARS OF TEXTILE STUDY TAASA REVIEW Marianne Hulsbosch, Guest Editor THE ASIAN ARTS SOCIETY OF AUSTRALIA INC. Abn 64093697537 • Vol. 23 No.3, September 2014 4 TRANSLATING TEXTILES: POETRY, PROFIT AND POLITICS IN THE IMAGERY ISSN 1037.6674 Registered by Australia Post. Publication No. NBQ 4134 OF THE WOVEN ART OF ASIA Susan Scollay editoriAL • email: [email protected] General editor, Josefa Green 7 TEXTILES IN THE SYMBOLIC UNIVERSE OF BALI Siobhan Campbell PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE Josefa Green (convenor) • Tina burge 10 FROM PINECONE TO PAISLEY: THE UBIQUITOUS BOTEH Melanie Eastburn • Sandra Forbes • Charlotte Galloway William Gourlay • Marianne Hulsbosch Christina Sumner Jim Masselos • Ann Proctor • Sabrina Snow Christina Sumner 13 VEILS OF CHANGE – RABARI WEDDING SHAWLS DESIGN/LAYOUT Carole Douglas Ingo Voss, VossDesign PRINTING 16 A FINE POSSESSION: JEWELLERY AND IDENTITY - ASIAN BODY ADORNMENT AT THE POWERHOUSE MUSEUM John Fisher Printing Min-Jung Kim and Christina Sumner Published by The Asian Arts Society of Australia Inc. PO Box 996 Potts Point NSW 2011 18 IN CONVERSATION: ASIAN CULTURAL ORIGINS IN THE TEXTILE WORK www.taasa.org.au OF RUTH HADLOW AND WENDY LUGG Enquiries: [email protected] Belinda von Mengersen TAASA Review is published quarterly and is distributed to members of The Asian Arts Society of Australia Inc. TAASA Review welcomes 22 CALLIGRAPHIC BATIK CLOTHS IN SOUTHEAST ASIA: MEANING BEHIND THE WORDS submissions of articles, notes and reviews on Asian visual and Margaret White performing arts. All articles are refereed. Additional copies and subscription to TAASA Review are available on request. 24 RALLI QUILTS: EXPRESSIONS OF CULTURAL & INDIVIDUAL IDENTITY No opinion or point of view is to be construed as the opinion of Sarah E. Tucker The Asian Arts Society of Australia Inc., its staff, servants or agents. No claim for loss or damage will be acknowledged by TAASA 26 RESEARCHING IN THE FIELD – THE SRI KSETRA MUSEUM, PYAY, MYANMAR Review as a result of material published within its pages or in other material published by it. We reserve the right to alter Charlotte Galloway or omit any article or advertisements submitted and require indemnity from the advertisers and contributors against damages 27 COLLECTOR’S CHOICE: A MUANG HUN TEXTILE FROM NORTHWEST LAOS or liabilities that may arise from material published. Gay Spies All reasonable efforts have been made to trace copyright holders. 28 BOOK REVIEW: POINTY SHOES AND PITH HELMETS TAASA MEMBERSHIP RATES Gill Green $70 Single (Australia and overseas) $90 Dual (Australia and overseas) 29 TAASA’s AGM & INAUGURAL TAASA ORATION $95 Libraries (Australia and overseas) Sandra Forbes $35 Concession (full-time students under 26, pensioners and unemployed with ID, Seniors Card not included) 30 RECENT TAASA ACTIVITIES ADVERTISING RATES TAASA Review welcomes advertisements from 33 TAASA MEMBERS’ DIARY: SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBR 2014 appropriate companies, institutions and individuals. Rates below are GST inclusive. 34 WHAT’S ON: SEPTEMBER – NOVEMBR 2014 Compiled by Tina Burge Back page $850 Full inner page $725 Half page horizontal $484 Third page (vertical or horizontal) $364 Half column $265 Insert $300 For further information re advertising, including discounts for regular quarterly advertising, please contact [email protected] THE DEADLINE FOR ALL ARTICLES TUBE-SKIRT (SINH) (DETAIL) FROM MUANG HUN, OUDOMXAI PROVINCE, NORTHWEST LAOS, FOR OUR NEXT ISSUE IS 1 OCTOBER 2014 LATE 19TH C.. © GAY SPIES, IMAGE COURTESY OF CAROLINE WHITLEY, SEE P27. THE DEADLINE FOR ALL ADveRTISING FOR OUR NEXT ISSUE IS 1 NOVEMBER 2014 A FULL INDEX OF ARTICLES PUBLISHED IN TAASA REVIEW SINCE ITS BEGINNINGS IN 1991 IS AVAILABLE ON THE TAASA WEB SITE, WWW.TAASA.ORG.AU 2 TAASA COMMITTEE EDITORIAL: CELEBRATING 20 YEARS OF TEXTILE STUDY GiLL Green • PRESIDENT Marianne Hulsbosch, Guest Editor Art historian specialising in Cambodian culture Ann ProCTOR • VICE PRESIDENT Textiles literally weave a thread throughout explored the history of the boteh (paisley) Art historian with a particular interest in Vietnam everyone’s lives: it is the first material one motif. She presents us with a chronological todd SundermAn • TREASURER comes in contact with shortly after birth, trajectory of this universally recognised Former Asian antique dealer, with a particular interest and it acts as a final shroud when one leaves design, giving us a better understanding of in Tibetan furniture this earth. Textiles sooth, protect, shelter and the impact it had, and continuous to have, on identify you. No wonder then that the mere modern-day textiles. dy AndreASen • SeCretAry mention of textiles conjures up a lot of passion Has a special interest in Japanese haiku and tanka poetry amongst TAASA members. The use of graphic symbols on cloth is SIOBHAN CAMPBELL further examined by Margaret White in her Lecturer, Indonesian Studies, Sydney University Shortly after the inauguration of TAASA article, which investigates the use of Arabic with an interest in Balinese art the idea of a special textile focus group was calligraphy on batik cloths of Southeast proposed by Judith Rutherford. A call to arms Asia. This is a welcome enquiry, as it appears JOSEFA GREEN quickly resulted in the very first meeting this area is a little neglected in modern day General editor of TAASA Review. Collector of in 1994. Ann Baker’s suggestion to set up a scholarly pursuits. Chinese ceramics rigorous Study Group that expected members BORIS KASPIEV to be highly committed to researching and Both Carole Douglas and Sarah Tucker Private collector of Asian art with a particular interest promoting all aspects of Asian textiles was reflect on personal experiences prompted by in the Buddhist art of the Himalayan region enthusiastically adopted. specific textile pieces. Carole vividly recalls her conversation with Rabari women in MIN-JUNG KIM Thus the TAASA Textile Study Group (TSG) the village of Bhujodi, Gujarat, who are still Curator of Asian Arts & Design at the Powerhouse was born and in itself can be considered as a producing the famed ludi (wedding shawl). Museum textile: a vibrant patchwork encompassing In light of rapid industrialisation, access to NATALIE SEIZ hands-on experience, analysis of textile objects, technology and economic prosperity she reviews of artists, exhibitions, publications, wonders what the future holds for the women Assistant Curator, Asian Art, AGNSW with an interest and the like. The TSG has become stronger and their textiles traditions. Sarah’s memories in modern/contemporary Asian Art than ever thanks to a committed, active core of living as a young girl in the Baluchistan CHRISTINA SUMNER of people, some of them foundation members. region of Pakistan were jolted by the sight Former Principal Curator, Design and Society, Publishing a dedicated textile issue on this, of a well-used and worn ralli (quilt) from Powerhouse Museum, Sydney the 20th anniversary of the TSG was an Thatta, Sindh. Like Carole, she recognises the opportunity not to be missed. ongoing resourcefulness and creativity of the MARGARET WHITE women who make them today. Former President and Advisor of the Friends of Museums, This issue then, acts simultaneously as a Singapore, with special interest in Southeast Asian art, celebration of Asian textiles and as recognition Belinda von Mengersen approaches Asian ceramics and textiles of, and dedication to all those people who have textiles from a very different perspective, TAASA AMBASSADOR so generously offered their time, expertise, providing us with a rare glimpse into creative knowledge and general support to keep all textile practice in her examination of the work JACKIE MENZIES aspects of textiles firmly in the spotlight. of two prominent contemporary artists, Ruth Emeritus Curator of Asian Art, Art Gallery of NSW. Hadlow and Wendy Lugg. She describes the President of TAASA from 1992 – 2000 As part of this celebration, a Textile Symposium dialogue between their initial inspiration - STATE REPRESENTATIVES was held on 19 July at the Powerhouse West Timor’s woven textiles (Hadlow) and Museum, Sydney. The first three articles in Japanese hand-stitched Boro (Lugg) - and AUSTRALIAn CAPITAL TERRITORY this issue present summaries of the papers their subsequent artistic response. MELANIE EASTBURN presented at the symposium. Curator of Asian Art, National Gallery of Australia Gay Spies invites us to sample her favourite Susan Scollay opened with a keynote address piece, an exquisite Muang Hun tube-skirt, QUEENSLAND which focused on the cross-cultural influences produced for Khmu shamans who were living of symbols and imagery transmitted through in northwest Laos. Min-Jung Kim tempts us RUSSELL STORER textiles, in particular woven textiles. She with a preview of a major jewellery exhibition Curatorial Manager, Asian and Pacific Art, explores how specific designs, colours and at the Powerhouse Museum, Sydney starting in Queensland Art Gallery textile items were successfully exploited to September. Whilst Charlotte Galloway reminds identify and visually enhance political and us of the importance of cataloguing museum SOUTH AUSTRALIA socio-economic power. artefacts as she informs us of her ongoing work JAMES BENNETT in the Sri Ksetra Museum in Myanmar. Curator of Asian Art, Art Gallery of South Australia This was
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