s

s RETAIL: Misses’ ACCESSORIES: NEWS: category faces tough Pressing the Trovata, customers, page 12. reset button at Forever

Baselworld,s 21 trial page 6. showdown, page 2. EYE: Eating right

when eating out, s page 16.

Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • April 13, 2009 • $3.00

WAccessories/Innerwear/LegwearwDMonday

Material Girls High-interest fabrics were a major focus of some of fall’s most imaginative collections. And few were as intricate The Shifting Paradigm: as Laura and Kate Mulleavy’s construction site-inspired textiles for Rodarte. “We wanted to play with the idea of deconstructing a home,” Laura said. Their collection, a Rules Being Redefined beautiful collage of marbleized, distressed and laminated fabrics, mimicked everything from insulation to duct tape. Here, a marbleized silk tulle and green polyacrylic lamé For Fashion and Retail with a silver laminated linen. For more materials, see pages 4 and 5. By WWD Staff The old financial tricks and merchandising sleights of hand aren’t going to work anymore. Fashion companies were quick enough to cut expenditures, pare store openings and lean on suppliers to survive the first year of the recession and the start of the credit crisis. But shifting consumer values and brutal economic realities are forcing both the weak and strong to reconsider their reason for being and how they do business. The paradigm in fashion is shifting. Well- established consumer segments are all changing independently and the industry is scrambling to keep up. The proof is everywhere, from First Lady Michelle Obama’s penchant for J. Crew to Jil Sander’s transformation into fast-fashion maven and luxury’s nosedive. See Fashion’s, Page 8 photo by thomas iannaccone; styled by court williams court thomas iannaccone; styled by photo by 2 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 13, 2009 WWD.COM Trovata, Forever 21 Suit Heading to Trial By David Lipke and stripes on a sweater would cause consum- ers to associate the garments with its brand, but WwDAccessories/Innerwear/LegwearMonday After two years of legal wrangling, there is no evidence to suggest that consumers FASHION Trovata’s lawsuit alleging that cheap-chic re- would be confused,” said Bruce Brunda, an at- tailer Forever 21 copied its designs is headed torney for Forever 21. “Forever 21’s products are 4 Designers rolled out fall collections featuring to trial next month, and the outcome could have only sold in Forever 21 stores and are labeled materials and techniques that showed the technical implications for both vendors and retailers in with Forever 21’s brand. The design features on prowess of the mills and their creativity. this age of fast fashion. the Trovata designs are rather generic and are Barring a last-minute settlement, lawyers fa- not protected by copyrights.” GENERAL miliar with Forever 21’s extensive litigation his- The trial is scheduled to begin May 7 in U.S. 1 Shifting consumer values and brutal economic tory said this would be the first time the rapidly District Court in Santa Ana, Calif. realities are forcing the weak and strong to expanding retailer faces a jury that will deter- “It’s a difficult case, and they are putting up reconsider their market and how they do business. mine whether it illegally clones other companies’ a substantial fight, but we believe that Forever After two years of legal wrangling, Trovata’s designs. The result could be a clarification of in- 21 willfully and intentionally copied the designs 2 tellectual property rights in an era when facsimi- of our client, in violation of a number of laws,” lawsuit alleging that cheap-chic retailer Forever 21 les of runway looks often appear in multinational said Frank Colucci, a lawyer for Newport Beach, copied its designs is headed to trial next month. specialty chains before a designer’s original ver- Calif.-based Trovata. JEWELRY: From redefining core values to scaling s 6 sion has a chance to hit stores. A separate lawsuit Anthropologie filed against back collections and points of sale, brands at The federal court case involves seven gar- Forever 21 does include allegations of copyright Baselworld were pressing the reset button. ments Forever 21 sold in its stores in 2007, said violations, as the Urban Outfitters-owned chain to look identical, or almost identical, to garments said Forever 21 copied a number of its patterns. 11 FINANCIAL: Well-positioned vendors unable to get designed by Trovata and publicized on the run- In a March 13 order in the case, U.S. District traditional bank loans could get some financial way or in magazines. One Forever 21 garment Court Judge Michael Dolinger in Manhattan breathing room through securitizations. also had an inside label that was a near repre- reprimanded Forever 21 for deceptive conduct 12 The downturn among misses’ specialty store sentation of Trovata’s distinct label at the time. during the discovery phase. He added, “We note retailers, which began almost 18 months ago, Trovata’s attorneys argued the alleged copy- the extraordinary litigating history of this com- might lag an eventual recovery. ing of the designs constituted trade dress in- pany, which raises the most serious questions as fringement. Trade dress is the legal term for the to whether it is a business that is predicated in The Dior Christal EYE tourbillon set visual appearance of a product that links it to a large measure on the systematic infringement of A few of New York’s top nutritionists were asked particular brand in consumers’ minds. Trovata, competitors’ intellectual property.” with Siam rubies 16 and diamonds. to pick healthy, but still satisfying, meals at four which is headed by founder and designer John Gregory Gulia, an attorney for Anthropologie, fashion-favored eateries. Classified Advertisements...... 15 To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is [email protected], using the individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 197, NO. 78. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in March, April, June and August, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. 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Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. Forever 21 shirts are top row and Trovata shirts are bottom row. Whitledge, is seeking a multimillion-dollar said he believes Forever 21 is willing to risk the award for actual and punitive damages. lawsuits because duplicating designer looks is a DAILY This is the deepest Unlike other suits brought against Forever lucrative business strategy. Forever 21 has been “ 21 in recent years by companies such as Diane sued more than 50 times for copyright infringe- QUote consumer retrenchment I von Furstenberg, Anna Sui, BeBe Stores and ment in the last three years. The retailer has Anthropologie, the Trovata suit does not allege settled such cases out of court. have ever witnessed. It’s like someone turned copyright violations. Under current law, only Robert Powley, an attorney for Forever 21 in original prints or graphics on clothes can be the Anthropologie case, said copying of designs out the lights and the world changed. copyrighted — as they are considered artwork — is rampant in the fashion industry, with vintage and Trovata’s suit focuses on Forever 21’s copy- garments used by many designers as reference — Allen Questrom on the economic downturn. ”Page one. ing of its unique button placements, decorative points in their work. stitching, fabric patterns and other details. “It can be very hard for a company the size of Although U.S. copyright laws do not protect Forever 21, which is producing thousands, if not coming this week a garment’s basic design, silhouette or form, hundreds of thousands, of designs every year, MONDAY: Talbot’s Inc. reports Index for March. legislation is pending in Congress — supported to know if every design is original or based on fourth-quarter and year-end by the Council of Fashion Designers of America designs that are in the public domain,” he said. sales and earnings. WEDNESDAY: The Labor — to expand copyright laws to the “appearance “Even if you take every garment in question in Department Releases the as a whole of an article” of clothing. The Design all these lawsuits, it would account for much less TUESDAY: Printsource New York Consumer Price Index for Piracy Prohibition Act has stalled in committee. than 1 percent of Forever 21’s products. They (through Wednesday). March. Critics contend its provisions are too sweeping take this issue very seriously and are working • Los Angeles Textile Show • The Federal Reserve Board and would stifle competition and commerce in hard to prevent this from happening.” (through Thursday). releases the Beige Book eco- the apparel industry. Founded in 1984 by Korean immigrants Do Won • The U.S. Commerce nomic report. Forever 21 concedes in court papers that there Chang and Jin Sook Chang, Los Angeles-based Department releases the March are similarities between the Trovata and Forever Forever 21 operated 440 stores globally as of March retail sales report. THURSDAY: Charlotte Russe 21 garments, but asserts it broke no laws. 1, with 2008 sales of $1.7 billion. The company • The U.S. Labor Department Holding reports second-quarter “Trovata is claiming that certain button patterns estimates total sales this year will be $2.3 billion. releases the Producer Price sales and earnings.

TODAY ON OUT TODAY: WWD COLLECTIONS • WWD Trend Report: The WWD Collections magazine features Bridal items

a wrap-up of the women’s fall 2009 ready-to-wear e n • More images from season in New York, London, Milan and Paris. o Using WWD’s global resources, the semi- the textiles shoot, annacc annual magazine offers exclusive designer I WWD and watches and interviews, photos and reports, from backstage as .com jewelry from Basel to the front row to the hottest parties on the

Thom • Global breaking news

fashion circuit. Plus, it highlights the most sig- by o

nificant trends as well as the top 10 collections t • Stock prices

of the season. Pho Enchanted Atelier hair piece. • WWD blogs WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 13, 2009 3 WWD.COM Watkins Tapped at Dior MEMO PAD Karen Watkins has been named executive FACES FORWARD: Parfums Givenchy has tapped Uma product information and the return of the personal essay. vice president of Christian Dior Inc., effective May 4. Thurman to be its newest face. She’ll front a women’s She stressed that while the magazine’s DNA is staying the Watkins will be responsible for all of the company’s fragrance, still under wraps, which will be launched same, it will have a more contemporary look. U.S. retail operations, and will report to Christian Dior this September by the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Country Living (often confused with the now-defunct Inc. president Pamela Baxter. Watkins was most recently Vuitton-owned brand. Thurman — whose upcoming films Meredith title Country Home, including in this column) senior vice president of stores, Western Region, for Louis include “Eloise in Paris” (in which she plays the nanny) has experienced less advertising bleeding than many Vuitton North America. Before that, she worked at Saks and “Percy Jackson” (as Medusa) — joins Givenchy’s others in the category: year to date through April, it’s Fifth Avenue, Joan & David Helpern Inc. and Bally of start-studded cast of pitchpeople, which includes Justin down only 8 percent, for a total of 273 pages. The title Switzerland. She replaces Augustin de Buffevent. Timberlake, Marie Steiss and Liv Tyler. Thurman is a continues to have a large newsstand presence, though At Vuitton, Watkins will be succeeded by Charles Delapalme, veteran of other LVMH-brand campaigns, including Tag it’s diminished in the last five years, dropping from a who is the firm’s country manager, Canada & Bermuda. Heuer and Louis Vuitton. yearly average of 296,088 copies sold on the newsstand With the promotion, he will now be in charge of 28 stores in Uma ThurmanThurman Meanwhile late last in 2004 to a little over half that in 2008. Miller said California, Washington and Oregon, handling store operations. week, fellow Givenchy recent issues she’d tweaked even before the redesign Delapalme will continue to report to Daniel Lalonde, muse Tyler helped celebrate were showing new life on the newsstand, pointing out president and chief executive officer of Louis Vuitton Nicolas Degennes’ 10-year that March single copy sales are up 10 percent from North America, and be a member of the company’s execu- anniversary as Parfums last year. But it also sharply grew its verified circulation tive management team. He joined Vuitton from McKinsey Givenchy’s creative director last year, which publisher Steven Grune called “a very & Co., where he was a project director, in 2005. of makeup. The fete at conscious strategy” to reach subscribers in the magazine’s — Marc Karimzadeh Paris’ Palais de Tokyo demographic in doctor’s offices and salons. museum drew a slew of This week, the magazine announced a new home international journalists. line at KMart and Sears, following brand extensions that “Right now I’m obsessed have included quilts at QVC, furniture at Lane, and food Peerless Brings Tallia Orange to Boys with this nail polish,” said products at Heritage. Up next: a multicity road show to Mainstream suit giant Peerless Tyler, flashing her nails pitch it to advertisers. — Irin Carmon Clothing International is expanding its For more on Thurman and awash with Givenchy’s proprietary contemporary label Tallia Givenchy, see WWD.com. Tangerine color that’s BLACK OUT: After four years at BlackBook magazine, Orange with the launch of boys. part of the brand’s spring- Elizabeth Sulcer is leaving her job as fashion director. A Come fall, the brand’s irrever- summer makeup collection. Among the actress’ possible successor has not been named yet. Sulcer will now focus WwD ent look — typified by bold patterns, upcoming projects is directing the film “The Romantics.” more on freelance projects, magazines and outside clients, bright colors and mix-and-match dress- — Jennifer Weil such as BCBG, where she has been consulting. But Sulcer Men’s ing — will be available in boys suits, is not severing her ties completely with BlackBook, telling sport coats, trousers, shirts and ties. COUNTRY TIME: Amid general retrenchment in the shelter WWD she plans to style future celebrity covers of the Suits will retail for $250; shirts for $72. and lifestyle category, Country Living has a (relatively) magazine. — Amy Wicks Designated for better department and specialty stores, new editor and a new look, and appears to be toughing the new line joins Peerless’ growing boys division, which it out better than some of its head-to-head MOVING ON: A top lieutenant of Jann Wenner counts Joseph Abboud and DKNY among its licensors. competitors. departed Wenner Media on Friday: Gary The men’s product, which includes clothing, furnishings Sarah Gray Miller, who became editor of Armstrong, Wenner’s chief marketing officer and belts and was launched last fall, is sold to Macy’s and the magazine in November when O at Home and a 10-year employee of the company. specialty stores. Peerless continues to add classifications was folded into O, The Oprah Magazine, A Wenner spokesman confirmed the move. to this line, as well. A range of scarves, produced under sees the magazine’s mission as particularly Armstrong’s departure comes after Wenner’s license by Chelsey Imports, will hit stores next season. relevant given the economic times — so marketing department was restructured Peerless, best known for its clothing licenses with much so that she took the magazine’s so the marketing teams reported directly major brands like Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein, ac- tagline, “Come home to comfort,” off to the publishers of Wenner’s individual quired the better Tallia label in 2006. the spine and put it on the cover. “The magazines, instead of Armstrong. Wenner is — Brenner Thomas magazine’s values resonate so much right the publisher of Us Weekly, Men’s Journal now,” Miller said. “And we’ve always been and Rolling Stone. Armstrong joined Wenner about crafting and entertaining at home.” from Condé Nast, where he held various Miller has given the magazine a facelift positions on the business side at Vanity Fair FASHION SCOOPS with the May issue, with new fonts, more and Mademoiselle. — Stephanie D. Smith OBAMA AFTERGLOW: Michelle Obama is back on home soil, but European designers are still giddy from having their clothing picked for her wardrobe for her trip to the Continent. Azzedine Alaïa, in particular, said he believes the Obamas will remain the most mythical presidential couple of all time. One of the A&F’s Jeffries, Jones’ Card See Pay Boosts in ’08 designer’s black frocks was worn by Michelle Obama to a dinner in By Alexandra Steigrad Baden-Baden, Germany, for the kickoff of the 60th NATO summit. “She wore it well; I couldn’t hope for better,” said Alaïa. “She Abercrombie & Fitch Co. chairman and chief executive officer Michael Jeffries last has a very strong presence and has set a new style for First Ladies. year had a 39 percent increase in total compensation, to $15.9 million, thanks to a $6 million “stay bonus.” I’m sure women will follow her style — it’s simple and elegant.” The bonus kicked in when Jeffries, whose contract has been extended to February 2014, remained with the Meanwhile, Alaïa scolded Oscar de la Renta for recently criticizing company through Dec. 31. It was part of a total of $6.5 million in nonequity compensation last year, compared some of the First Lady’s sartorial moves (even though de la Renta with $1.9 million in 2007, according to a regulatory filing with the Securities and Exchange Commission. praised her as well). “It’s not up to him to give her lessons; Michelle Jeffries’ salary was $1.5 million, as in 2007, and his stock-and-option awards were valued at $5.6 million, up Obama is of her time; Oscar de la Renta is no longer,” scoffed Alaïa. from $5.1 million. Stock-and-option awards are reported based on SEC accounting guidelines. The compensation “I love Michelle Obama because she is beautiful, energetic reported in these categories was not necessarily realized because of vesting schedules and falling share prices. and has a strong presence,” continued Brunello Cucinelli, founder The ceo received other compensation of $2 million, including $1.1 million for personal use of the company- of the namesake company producing the Gunex pants worn by owned aircraft. His 2007 total was $11.4 million. Obama for a visit to the cathedral in Strasbourg, France. At Jones Apparel Group Inc., Wesley Card, president and ceo, received compensation of $5.5 million last year, Veronica Etro, creative director of Etro’s women’s wear and a 36.4 percent increase. accessories, lauded Obama’s sophisticated sense of style. Card’s take included a $1.6 million salary, $86,474 for a rented New York apartment and $10,792 in car And Moschino creative director Rossella Jardini recalled the services, according to a separate SEC filing. His 2007 salary was $1.3 million. excitement of seeing one of the brand’s green suits worn by Obama to Most of Card’s pay came in the form of stock awards, which were valued at $3.7 million, up from $2.5 million in 2007. the Democratic National Convention in Denver. (She also sported the Chairman Sidney Kimmel drew salary of $1.2 million, unchanged from 2007, and also received $113,425 in label in Europe.) “That chartreuse tone that Mrs. Obama often wears car and driver services. has now become, for my team and myself, ‘Obama Green,’” she said. — With contributions from Evan Clark BEAUTY BEAT Egyptian jasmine, cyclamen and rose notes. Meanwhile, pa- tchouli, vetiver, cedar and sandalwood notes are in the base. Sisley Dresses Up Scents Eau de Sisley 3 was inspired by a low-cut dress and PARIS — Sisley is coming out with a wardrobe of fresh includes top notes of bergamot, mandarin, grapefruit scents for women. and lemon. In the heart are crimson ginger and osman- The French beauty brand’s latest project is a trio of thus notes. And notes of patchouli, vetiver, benzoin, va- Eau de Sisley fragrances. Each chypre scent was inspired nilla and musk make up the base. by a different type and color of imaginary summer dress. Givaudan worked with d’Ornano on scents number one “Mrs. [Isabelle] d’Ornano wanted things gay and and three, while Symrise created number two with her. fresh,” explained Delphine Fraignaud, Sisley’s interna- Advertising will appear as single pages. The Eau de Sisley tional marketing director, referring to one of Sisley’s co- bottles were created by Polish sculptor Bronislaw Krzysztof. founders. She also wanted them to be bubbly and sunny. Although Sisley executives would not discuss sales Eau de Sisley 1 is meant to be like a dress made of projections, industry sources estimate the trio of scents sunshine, according to the firm. It has top notes of green will generate $20 million in wholesale revenues in the mandarin, grapefruit, pink peppercorn and spices. In the first 12 months worldwide. heart, there’s water jasmine, green tea and juniper berry The fragrances will be introduced globally in April, notes. And at the base are notes of patchouli and musks. following 10-day exclusives in Paris’ Bon Marché and The new fragrance trio. Eau de Sisley 2 is intended to be the olfactive embodi- London’s Harrods department stores. Eau de Sisley joins a portfolio of fragrances that in- ment of a dress of white flowers. It’s comprised of top notes Each 100-ml. eau de toilette spray bottle retails for cludes Eau de Campagne, Eau de Soir and Soir de Lune. of cardamom, bergamot and basil. In the heart are water lily, 100 euros, or $133 at current exchange, in France. — Jennifer Weil 4 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 13, 2009

JohnJohn Galliano’sGalliano’s metalmetal threadthread andand silversilver lamé.lamé.

For more images,see WWD.com.

Y-3’s Marios Dries Van Momo Schwab’s Noten’s print. 3-D photocopy print. print. WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 13, 2009 5 WWD.COM

Calvin Prada’s Klein’s velvet treated brocade. Creation velvet. Theory This fall, fashion houses rolled out collections featuring materials and techniques that not only demonstrated the technical prowess of the mills, but also the creativity of the designers. At Calvin Klein, Francisco Costa developed a bonded velvet with a rubberized finish, but softened the techy material by slashing it with laser cuts. “I wanted to see the surface evolve,” he explained. And that evolution, moving from sheer innovation toward more expressive garments, was key for many New York designers. At Christian Cota, a blouse covered in individually printed and embroidered sequins looked practically Pointillist. For Y-3, Yohji Yamamoto called upon Brooklyn street artist Momo to add edge to a few separates with his graffitilike Balenciaga’s work. “It’s the streety parts of New York that inspire me,” said beading and silk devoré. Yamamoto. “Momo’s art was a perfect companion to my vision.” In Milan, things were beautifully low-tech. Miuccia Prada’s lush velvet brocades for Prada were produced on late-19th- century looms with a capacity of only 25 meters of fabric a day. Meanwhile, at Dolce & Gabbana, the designers’ Surrealist bent was emphasized by woven matelassé, puckering and hand applications of lace and moonstonelike disks. London’s Marios Schwab, in contrast, used cyan and red anaglyphic 3-D prints on some of his dresses. Though they were coated with a layer of transparent sequins, the patterns took on dimension when show attendees saw them through 3-D glasses. Paris designers took a more measured approach. Nicolas Ghesquière softened his futurist vernacular for Balenciaga, using superluxe silk devoré swags and detailed pearl embroidery. And John Galliano used fabrics fit for the Jetsons — silver lamé laced with metal threads — to construct dreamy folkloric silhouettes. Dries Van Noten took his inspiration from nature. He photocopied flowers, reptiles and leopards, then folded the images and copied them again before applying the Xerox-chic prints onto silk fabrics. By turning a piece of modern-day office life into textile art, he proved there’s no time like the present to be creative. — Court Williams, with contributions from e maestri Katya Foreman, Alessandra Ilari and Nina Jones d avi d D AN

Dolce & Rodarte’s Gabbana’s marbleized mirrored leather. disks. giannoni, thomas iannaccone stephane feugere, giovanni ericksen, kyle chinsee, steve eichner, george centeno, talaya by photos 6 WWD, monday, april 13, 2009

Fine Jewelry Report Bulgari’s 125th anniversary Sotirio Bulgari Date Chopard’s Retrograde watch. Elton John watch.

Stephen Webster’s Boucheron’s Japanese fighting fish owl timepiece. brooch in titanium. Brands at Baselworld Evolve To ward Better Times By Katya Foreman shaped oscillating weight. around $750,000. Clamping down on the brand’s marketing, advertising Making the million-dollar mark at Harry Winston, as BASEL, Switzerland — From redefining core values to scal- and events budgets, Gruosi said he had reduced volume part of its Jewels That Tell Time collection, was its Tango ing back collections or weeding out distributors, many and cranked up creativity for the event. For example, a “toi et moi” diamond cuff in brilliant pear and marquise- players at the Baselworld watch and jewelry fair have playful bracelet depicting a hippopotamus, its nostrils shaped diamonds linked by bands of calibrated ba- pressed the reset button. made of sapphires, was among his offerings. guettes. The brand will open its 19th retail location this Rolex said it has closed several accounts since 2008, Key product trends included moon-phase move- summer in Singapore’s Ion Orchard shopping center. totaling millions of dollars in sales. Doug Meine, the ments, all-black timepieces, metal plating, diamond ac- Gérald Genta even devised a high-tech safe — fit- firm’s executive vice president, said the industry’s strug- cents, multiple complications on one watch and oversize ted with a biometric fingerprint scanner — for its Arena gles during the global recession triggered a “shaking out volumes, a trend said to be peaking. MetaSonic, priced at just under $1 million. An evolution of of the tree.” He described the house’s presentation as Stainless steel lines were among key launches at sev- the brand’s Grand Sonnerie that’s billed as the only watch “somewhat low-key,” in tune with the climate. eral houses, including Movado, Ebel, Longines, Bulgari with a four-hammer chime, the new timepiece is crafted “Normally, we would have our trays out, but it’s not and Gucci. The latest ad campaign from Gucci, to be from titanium and a new Magsonic metal alloy developed the right time to push your partners,” he said. “We’re released in the fourth quarter, features the stainless in-house to improve sound quality. It also features a min- going to be listening a lot to our customers.” steel version of its new Marina Chain watch collection, ute repeater function and a tourbillion. It’s also a period of opportunity for certain players. accented with diamond markers. Calvin Klein’s spring Christian Dior showcased its most expensive watch Hans-Kristian Hoejsgaard, president and chief execu- campaign for its women’s watches features its new cage- ever, priced at $1.3 million. The Dior Christal tourbillion, tive officer of Timex Group, said, “This is a Baselworld that like “Fly” timepiece in stainless steel. designed by John Galliano, boasts 66 rare Siam rubies comes after several years of uninterrupted growth. [Brands] sourced from a closed mine in Thailand. are definitely a little bewildered about what to do.” Elsewhere, mirroring the fashion world, collaborations Hoejsgaard said he’s “actively looking” for acquisi- on timepieces were rife. tions — and during the event, Swatch Group announced From the first day of the fair, These included: the limited edition Tachoscope, con- it is to acquire its South African distributor, Swiss “ ceived by Audi Design and developed and produced by Precision (Pty) Ltd. I realized that the industry was Chronoswiss; Movado’s series by American artist Kenny While the normally high-energy fair was more sub- Scharf; Rado’s minimalist watch by furniture designer dued this time around because of the slowdown in still alive. Jasper Morrison; Chopard’s new Elton John watch collec- watch sales, hopes of a fourth-quarter turnaround did ” — Fawaz Gruosi, de Grisogono tion; Blancpain and Lamborghini’s Super Trofeo racing bubble to the surface. series, and Oris’ limited edition Bob Dylan watch featuring The event ended its eight-day run April 2, as brands Swatch Group’s Longines announced Steffi Graf as a replica of the singer’s harmonica in its box set. Baccarat kept the number of introductions to a minimum. one of its “Ambassadors of Elegance.” The brand al- also unveiled a limited edition line of chandelier-inspired Attendance dipped 12 percent to 93,900. ready counts Graf ’s husband and fellow tennis great pieces designed by jeweler Stefano Poletti. “There’s less novelty; it’s back to basics,” said Andre Agassi among its ambassadors. John Galliano unveiled its new timepiece collection Andrew Block, executive vice president of Tourneau. The focus for jewelry was on special pieces. based on the traditional pocket watch, in collaboration “There’s still opportunity that comes from strong coop- Highlights ranged from Mikimoto’s new Baroque with Morellato. In a playful mood, Boucheron showcased eration between brands and retailers. We need to con- Couture line to the latest offerings from Chopard’s Red its new “crazy second” movement, designed by Girard tinue to put the category in front of the customer.” Carpet Collection, which included a light blue floral Pirot, including an owl watch with twirling eye sockets Many predicted the coming months leading to the necklace made from heart- and pear-shaped sapphires, marking passing seconds. fourth quarter will be pivotal. as well as Stephen Webster’s dramatic titanium pieces, Many noted a drop in U.S. retailers at the event. Marc Michael Nelson, director of sales and marketing for such as one brooch inspired by Japanese fighting fish. Hruschka, president and ceo of Chopard USA, said he Swatch Group’s Jaquet Droz brand, said, “The next four Jewelry designer Shaun Leane said he had been sur- had seen a significant rise in U.S.-based appointments to five months will be slow going, but everyone is count- prised by the number of titanium pieces at the fair. and had extended the brand’s Vegas dates. Timex ing on the fourth quarter being stronger.” “I’ve seen some really beautiful big pieces of jewelry. Group’s Hoejsgaard suggested the earlier positioning of Having prepared himself for a “slow and rather nega- I think in this climate people need to create pieces that the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, which tive Basel,” Fawaz Gruosi, founder of the Swiss jewelry and stand out in the crowd, and although titanium is difficult typically kicks off at the end of Baselworld, may have af- watch firm de Grisogono, said he found the show positive. to work with, it’s very light,” said Leane, who in June fected attendance. “From the first day of the fair, I realized that the in- will stage a retrospective of his most iconic pieces from “One thing’s for sure, American retailers are not going dustry was still alive,” Gruosi said. “I believe that by past decades, ranging from Alexander McQueen catwalk to travel to Switzerland twice a year,” he said. summer — September latest — business will pick up pieces to his one-off necklace for Boucheron. Hartmut Kraft, the recently appointed ceo of again and slowly start to recover.” Leane revealed he also has designed a brooch for Chronoswiss North America, said, “The climate in the U.S. Marc Michel-Amadry, president and creative director De Beers, to be unveiled in April, and is in talks with is no less than devastating. Every retailer knows one or of Ebel, said the fair had been vital for strengthening Daphne Guinness to collaborate on a jewelry line. two neighbors that have gone belly up.…Cellini isn’t here, relationships with retailers and the media. Though the number of million-dollar watches at the and that says everything.” “Our new products, intelligently priced, have been fair shrank, several manufacturers said they continue Out to redefine the company’s Stateside positioning, successful in convincing our retail partners to invest in to find takers. Breguet, which in June will mount an Kraft has closed all 60 of its U.S. distribution points a challenging global economy,” he said. exhibition of vintage Breguet timepieces at the Louvre with a view to opening 15 exclusive doors by September. Introductions by the brand included its limited edi- museum in Paris that will include a clock on loan Plans are to produce no more than 6,000 timepieces tion, soccer-themed 1911 Tekton Real Madrid watch, from Queen Elizabeth II, showcased its Grand Strike globally. featuring a seamless case construction and a football- 1907 pocket watch, priced at 850,000 Swiss francs, or “Brands are consolidating their core ranges,” said WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 13, 2009 7 WWD.COM Fine Jewelry Report For more Baselworld images, see WWD.com. The Dior Christal tourbillon set with Siam rubies and diamonds.

De Grisogono’s hippo cuff. Brands at Baselworld Evolve To ward Better Times Gurinder Sahni, ceo of JOT Impex, which operates that display the hour in four different locations, two jewelry stores in Delhi. while its manual winding movement is made of 471 Citing no luxury downturn in India, demand is for individual components and 81 ruby bearings. authentic Swiss watchmaking brands such as Hublot Representing hefty investments that experts and Breitling. say can run into tens of millions of dollars, sever- “If anything, it’s the fashion brands that will suf- al brands inaugurated their own in-house watch fer,” he said. movements at the event. The drive behind the “One thing that works today is brands with deep phenomenon is said to be an agreement in 2004 by heritage,” said Tourneau’s Block, who named Ebel Swatch Group’s ETA with the Swiss Competition as one brand that’s back on track. Committee that it is to phase out supplying me- Block also singled out Ulysse Nardin’s collec- chanical movement kits to third parties by tion as a Baselworld standout, notably its limited 2011, further affected by the struggle by edition Moonstruck mechanical wristwatch independent component suppliers to conceived by Ludwig Oechslin, director of the furnish demand during the industry’s International Watch Museum in La Chaux-de- recent boom years. Fonds, Switzerland. Featuring a hand-painted “It’s important to be credible if rendering of the Earth on its enamel dial, the our strategy is to be considered watch emulates the gravitation of the sun and a high-end watchmaker,” said moon and shows the movement of the tides. Francesco Trapani, ceo of Ulysse Nardin also introduced its Chairman Bulgari, which announced hybrid smart phone at the fair, developed its first movement mod- with SCI Innovation. Through the kinetic ule ever created and energy of a built-in me- assembled in-house. chanical watch rotor, The brand’s Breguet’s Grand the gadget recharges 125th anniversary Strike 1907 itself like an auto- Sotirio Bulgari Date pocket watch. matic watch. Retrograde timepiece Other highlights will be distributed in included: more than 250 stores t
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To mark its 125th anniversary, Bulgari in known as MCT Watches, delivered one of the fair’s May will open its first retrospective at Rome’s Il buzziest timepieces, conceived by founder Denis Palazzo delle Esposizioni, which will include an Giguet, who has worked on the teams of Rolex and entire room dedicated to Elizabeth Taylor. Harry Winston. Dubbed Sequential One, features on “It’s a fantastic occasion to talk about the the avant-garde watch include a jumping minute-dis- brand and its product,” Trapani said. “We’re one play dial in sapphire crystal and 20 rotating prisms of the few companies with such a long tradition.” 8 WWD, monday, april 13, 2009 Fashion’s Shifting Paradigm Continued from page one The global playing field is also in flux with financial pressures bearing down on economies of all shapes and sizes. “What’s going on is unprecedented, at least in my experi- ence,” said Allen Questrom, former chief executive officer of J.C. Penney Co. Inc., Federated, Barneys New York and Neiman Marcus Inc. “This is the deepest consumer retrench- ment I have ever witnessed. It’s like someone turned out the lights and the world changed.” The advice from retail’s Mr. Fixit? “Get rid of nonproductive stores. Cut back expectations — cut back the business empire from 10 to 20 percent depending on type of product — the whole business,” Questrom suggested. “It’s about cutting operating ex- penses, the number of physical facilities, sales, profits, the whole world. It could be four years, five years, or it could be we are in for a 10-year decline.” Smaller is just a part of the new world order experts and industry veterans see coming. The next couple of decades will see the coexistence of several “contradictory” distribution strategies, according to Gildas Minvielle, an economist at the French Fashion Institute. Slow and fast-fashion con- cepts will operate side- by-side and smaller retail formats will return to re- populate town centers. “[Consumers are] com- ing back to basics and are Shoppers and stores must adjust to a new uncertain reality.

ing a loss of market share if they didn’t hit the accelerator. This thing comes at the Bermuda Triangle of the “We’re going to have fewer outlets over the next year, and it’s going to happen much more quickly than if the business cycle hadn’t screeched to a halt so fast,” said “culture. Ethics, the environment and the economy Nancy Koehn, a retail historian and professor at the Harvard Business School. As painful as that sounds, there could be a payoff at the end for consumers. are all failing at the same time. ­ “The drama of this moment will force savvy retailers to figure out how to be more distinctive and more targeted,” Koehn said. “We’re going to end up with a more dis- — Faith Popcorn,” Faith Popcorn’s BrainReserve tinctive, and in some sense, more compelling shopping landscape.” She pointed to the fast-fashion model used so effectively by Hennes & Mauritz and less willing to be swayed by marketing campaigns,” Minvielle said. “But nothing’s Zara and said it could be re-engineered to suit a higher-end customer. sure. We could find at the end of 2010 a period of strong growth, and things could “This moment is a kind of great trumpet blowing for taking that idea, that rough completely change.” concept and trying to add some [social] responsibility, some durability or lastingness Shoppers who for years have subsidized mediocre collections and chains via cred- to it,” Koehn said. “People are looking for purchases that are going to last. It needs to it-fueled purchases are reasserting themselves and forcing brands to produce goods be a few zippy things that people can actually think about acquiring.” that meet the demands of their lifestyles. Simply selling the same old, same old for 20 Higher-end fast fashion based on a few key pieces? Just one possibility for fash- THE NEW, PUSHIER CONSUMER percent less will not be enough. ion’s future. Certainly others have heard the rallying call to quick-turn styles, includ- The whole economy is coming off of a period of excess, a gilded age of cash flow ing the designer Jil Sander, who, after sitting on fashion’s sidelines for several years, that covered Wall Street’s sins and filled holes in questionable business plans. Many recently inked a deal to oversee men’s and women’s apparel for Japanese retailer see the quick growth and flameout of collegiate retailer Steve and Barry’s as just one Uniqlo, owned by Fast Retailing Co. Ltd. example of the overabundance allowed to take root in the marketplace. Fast fashion has caught on, in part, because of its clear usability for consumers. It’s A woman being offered several different dresses, but turning her nose up to all of them “What we now have will be a fundamental economic reset,” said Steve Ballmer, a business model that offers shoppers an accessible way to stay current. If consum- ceo of Microsoft Corp., at a House Democratic caucus retreat earlier this year. “The ers once again reign as kings and queens, this is the type of focused business model economy is going to have to re-establish itself at a lower level of spending that re- expected to take root. flects the real value of underlying assets before we can all start growing again at a From fewer stores to a renewed focus on what consumers are demanding, it is a healthy rate.” scary and exciting time in fashion. Even if the industry’s woes don’t That’s trouble for high-end fashion. rise to the doomsday scenarios facing the financial sector and U.S. “The pie is smaller and fewer people have access to it,” said Concetta Lanciaux, automakers, by most accounts, fashion is headed for a significant principle of Switzerland-based Strategy Luxury Advisors. reinvention as consumers find their footing and the business Lanciaux said designer labels are unlikely to grow as consumers trade down to adapts to structural changes. THE PRICE-VALUE GAME brands that offer good design and quality for the price. That Obama has embraced more “entry-level” brands like J. Crew, and “simple” versus flashy designers is emblematic of the direction. “The consumer can now re- The New, Pushier Consumer ally discern value for money,” she said. “People perceive what’s fake. Now we want A scale with a dollar sign or money bag on one side and a handbag on the other the truth.” Every aspect of retailing, from the number of stores to the Lower spending means a new world order for the business of fashion, and so far looks they carry and the marketing they use to draw cus- the central theme appears to be a back-to-basics emphasis on the consumer. The prob- tomers, could be permanently reordered as shoppers lem is nobody’s sure just what the consumer wants now or what they’ll be looking for throw their weight around. in the next decade. “Consumers are getting out of the habit of buying,” “This thing comes at the Bermuda Triangle of the culture,” said futurist Faith said Popcorn, the futurist. “We’re calling the consum- Popcorn, founder of Faith Popcorn’s BrainReserve. “Ethics, the environment and the ers ‘citizens’ and a citizen wants to play deeply in the economy are all failing at the same time.” purchase cycle. They want to say, ‘I want it this way $ People want to live the good life — and that life doesn’t necessarily mean shop- or I want it that way. I want to put my logo on it. I $ THE NEW SOCIETY ping, especially for expensive clothes, she said. want an Adidas logo on top of a Nike logo.’” And for companies looking for a way forward, the end of easy money only increases People are angry with their leaders, losing faith the risks. Businesses still find it hard to renegotiate bank loans and tap capital mar- in big companies and scared about the economy, said kets, just as consumers can no longer draw on second mortgages or burgeoning stock Popcorn, noting that value brands are “no longer a sacrifice, just smart.” Something for social issues, maybe a globe portfolios for purchases. Last month, Stefano Sassi, Valentino’s ceo, said consumers were beginning to take “You can really get scorched in a world where the consumer has a lot less money a “punitive” or “moral” approach to buying, meaning that price had to be relative to to spend,” said William McComb, ceo of Liz Claiborne Inc. “Ultimately, to become quality more than ever. profitable again as an industry and to have sustainable margins, you’ve got to have This is a challenge to the predominant mode of thinking that so often equates some real level of scarcity.” growth with success. Fashion got caught up in extraordinary consumer growth, expanding store bases “If you’re going to truly focus on your core customer, you are going to have to and supply chains to meet shoppers’ ever-increasing demand for more and more, risk- relook at your business and how big your business can be,” said Andrew Sacks, THE NEW AUSTERITY A penny in a vice or clamp or being crushed under a store

THE NUTS AND BOLTS Actual nuts and bolts or a distribution center with trucks going in one side and packages coming out the other

THE FUTURE Someone looking through binoculars over the horizon.

D WE T GO RU IN ST

LIBERTY 2009 THE NEW, PUSHIER CONSUMER A woman being offered several different dresses, but turning her nose up to all of them

THE PRICE-VALUE GAME A scale with a dollar sign or money bag on one side and a handbag on the other

$ $ THE NEW SOCIETY Something for social issues, maybe a globe

THE NEW AUSTERITY A penny in a vice or clamp or being crushed under a store

THE NUTS AND BOLTS Actual nuts and bolts or a distribution center with trucks going in one side and packages coming out the other

THE FUTURE Someone looking through binoculars over the horizon.

WWD, monday, april 13, 2009 9 WWD.COM THE NEW, PUSHIER CONSUMER Fashion’s Shifting Paradigm A woman being offered several different dresses, but turning her nose up to all of them THE PRICE-VALUE GAME president of marketing and intelligence firm Agencysacks. “The gestions, and that is the way forward.” focus should be on being profitable and building a more consis- Fashion’s reliance on ever-lower prices failed last fall, as sale signs shouting tent brand.” 60, 70 and 80 percent off attested. Value is making a comeback across the price A scale with a dollar sign or money bag on one side and a handbag on the other Sacks said the first step is acknowledging the business is changing spectrum. and might be smaller and focused on a different range of products. “In all of our businesses at every single level, we have been focusing “If anyone’s thinking about it already, then they’re already ahead on value,” said Tom Murry, president and ceo of Calvin Klein Inc. “The of the game,” he said. “It’s also about taking a view. If you’re in consumer is responding to great product, but it has to represent good the middle of the road, you know what happens. You’re going intrinsic value. Even at our designer level, we have men’s suits now at to get run over.” $ $1,095, and it used to open at around $1,600. Those suits are selling well Thinking smaller would be a clean break with much of the $ at full price.” THE NEW SOCIETY industry’s recent past. Last fall’s price drops were so severe that suppliers from every corner Brands will have to do more than edge out the com- of the industry are hoping retailers can hold their prices, even if petition — they will have to satisfy important needs of they start at a lower level. shoppers, said Paul Charron, former ceo and chairman But that doesn’t mean brands are trimming their price tags sim- Something for social issues, maybe a globe of Liz Claiborne Inc., who is set to become chairman of ply for the benefit of retail bottom lines. Campbell Soup Co. in August. Stores tried to extract sharper pricing from designers after the “When I look at some of the things I did as a ceo, fall runway shows in Paris and Milan, but major houses such as I think I did them for largely competitive reasons and Chanel, Prada and Versace were holding the line. they probably served me well,” Charron said. “But I’m Prices could be heading down for some time. not sure that that’s going to be sufficient going forward. “Deflation is here to stay,” said William Fung, global managing The things that need to be done are going to have to director of Li & Fung Ltd. The sourcing giant is budgeting for a flat THE NEW AUSTERITY work from a consumer point of view and they’re going 2009 as its customers are predicting 10 to 20 percent decreases in to have to enhance your stature with the consumer on sales. However appealing the notion of deflation might be for a metric other than convenience, which is more acces- consumers, it’s bad for business. Profit margins are squeezed sibility, which is more stores.” between fewer dollars flowing into the till on one hand, and A penny in a vice or clamp or being crushed under a store Charron said each consumer segment would the cost to make and market goods on the other hand. react in its own way to the economic tides. Offering more value seems to be a way through. “You’ve got about seven or eight consumer “We have to get back to creating innovative product, con- D WE T GO RU IN ST revolutions under way, and no trend observer or cepts and merchandising ideas to stimulate and energize the researcher or consumer behaviorist has a clue as customer,” said Andrew Rosen, president and co-founder of to what the world will be like on the other side,” Theory. “You just can’t get away with making clothes and ex- he said. pecting them to sell. You have to be good at what you do. THE NUTS AND BOLTS The type of goods that go into stores and how Clothing is not just a status symbol anymore. There has to LIBERTY they are presented to shoppers are also changing, be a sense of relevancy to it.” and concepts such as “aspirational” are proving to 2009 Actual nuts and bolts or a distribution center with trucks going in one side and packages coming out the other be a moving target. “The aspirational consumer is going to continue and maybe consumers will become even more as- The New Society pirational,” said Mackey McDonald, former chair- Kenneth Cole, who has long linked his man and ceo of VF Corp., who is no longer affiliated brand to awareness of social issues, with the company. “What they will buy will be the Eco-fashions are might find his marketing niche filled things that will be important to their image and the gaining ground. with more voices. THE FUTURE statement they want to make about who they are.” The fashion crowd, already in tune Reaching the consumer will require more targeted marketing. with myriad social concerns from “I don’t think it’s a time when you can stop communicating,” said women’s issues to advocacy for AIDS McDonald. “I just think you need to be communicating with a high- research, might become even active Someone looking through binoculars over the horizon. powered rifle rather than a shotgun.” as the culture pays more attention to Already changes are happening throughout the industry. causes. A sign of the times: For his fall 2009 runway show, designer Graeme Donna Karan, for example, is try- THE NEW, PUSHIER CONSUMER Black switched up his front-row lineup. He invited personal shoppers ing to convey a sense of social con- from stores such as Browns in London so they could see the collection sciousness through her Urban Zen firsthand. “The only way we’re going to move forward is to connect di- concept. rectly with the customer,” said Jonathan Reed, Black’s business part- “What does it mean to buy some- ner. thing?” Karan said. “I think that buy- A woman being offered several different dresses, but turning her nose up to all of them ing something will no longer just be for yourself. It’s buying something with a conscience, how it affects the seam- The Price-Value Game stresses, the fabric people, the manufac- Price is a function of how much shoppers are willing to pay for some- thing, while value is a gauge of something’s The risks intrinsic worth. Even at our designer level, we have are rising Consumers are It’s a distinction that sometimes gets “ THE PRICE-VALUE GAME for global scrutinizing forgotten. men’s suits now at $1,095, and it expansion. every purchase. For example, Gap Inc.’s Old Navy unit faltered after focusing on relatively used to open at around $1,600.­ inexpensive basics without much fash- — Tom Murry, Calvin Klein” Inc. A scale with a dollar sign or money bag on one side and a handbag on the other ion, said Christine Chen, principal, equity research specialty retail, apparel analyst. And the stakes are higher turers, the world at-large. I think we were in an economy where it was all about than ever. ‘what I want,’ but with every purchase, there is a business and how you can make “In this environment, we a difference in somebody else’s life. If that shift happens, it will all of a sudden are going to continue to see awaken the consumer to why they’re actually buying something.” $ a bigger separation between Luxury titan Bernard Arnault, chairman and ceo of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis $ those who are doing well and Vuitton, might also be getting into the eco game. THE NEW SOCIETY those who are not doing well,” LVMH is said to have its eye on Edun, the eco-luxury label founded in 2005 by U2 Chen said. “But everyone is rocker Bono and his wife Ali Hewson. The brand is an attempt to drive sustainable going to suffer.” employment in developing economies through the production of organic fashions. This puts designer and discounter in the same boat. Last month, Arnault demurred when asked about his company’s interest in Eden. Something for social issues, maybe a globe “As money becomes a critical issue, clients will become more cynical with “It’s top secret,” he said. regard to how they spend it,” said Inacio Ribeiro, co-designer of ready-to- Fifty-five percent of consumers buy organic products, up from 49 percent a year wear label Clements Ribeiro. ago, according to survey by WSL Strategic Retail. An increasing number of venues are “The consumer is so well-informed today, they don’t want to be offing consumers their organic fix. Among the latest: Target’s new Loomstate brand is told how to buy and they feel conned and manipulated by big flag- made from certified organic cotton, and Anthropologie celebrated Earth Day this year ship stores, and by the disproportionate margins the brands are with organic chefs and gardening events. making,” Ribeiro said. “However, the consumer will welcome sug- Continued on page 10 THE NEW AUSTERITY A penny in a vice or clamp or being crushed under a store

THE NUTS AND BOLTS Actual nuts and bolts or a distribution center with trucks going in one side and packages coming out the other

THE FUTURE

D WE T GO RU IN ST Someone looking through binoculars over the horizon.

LIBERTY 2009

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of them up to all her nose but turning CONSUMER dresses, different other NEW, PUSHIER several on the THE being offered handbag woman and a A one side GAME bag on or money THE PRICE-VALUE sign with a dollar 10 WWD, monday, april 13, 2009 A scale WWD.COM a globe maybe NEW SOCIETY issues, THE for social store the other Something under a out crushed coming AUSTERITY or being and packages Fashion’s Shifting ParadigmTHE NEW or clamp one side a vice in Continued from page 9 in going “It will take the more mature markets a longerA penny time — maybe even 10 years with trucks — to forget the slap of this crisis while the emerging ones will turn BOLTS out new center richness faster,” he said. AND a distribution The Global Order THE NUTS bolts or nuts and $ $ The financial crisis that began with risky mortgages in the U.S. Actual horizon. has whipped around the world, making it even harder for re- The Nuts and Bolts over the tailers and brands to navigate international waters, where con- Making all this happen will require fashion companies to be binoculars sumers and businesses have a rhythm of their own. as flexible and innovative as they’veTHE FUTURE claimed to be all along, through The headlong rush to open in developing countries has slowed or more so. looking along with the prospects for growth, said Antony Karabus, ceo of For years, the industry’s beenSomeone filled with chatter about Karabus Management. “The growth rates are nowhere near available market research, making products with both creative and as they were a year or two ago,” he said. “It’s not to say there are no commercial appeal and tweaking supply chains so design opportunities. But it’s not as obvious and it’s not as slam dunk as decisions could be made later, but the tangible results were it used to be.” often never seen. Karabus said it has also become harder to tap into the nec- “It’s the execution of these things, not just the wishful essary capital to expand and that retailers would become thinking of them,” said John Karonis, newly minted presi- more selective, going after a smaller number of big oppor- dent of Kurt Salmon Associates’ retail and consumer products tunities. “The execution is much harder in tough times,” group. “Our economic environment has really instilled a sense he said. For related economic of urgency in many people.” Michael Jeffries, chairman and ceo of Abercrombie & A study by Kurt Salmon described this new, more effi- Fitch Co., told Wall Street analysts the retailer would continue stories, see WWD.com. cient way of operating as “acting vertical,” and said firms its overseas expansion. such as Target Corp., Coach Inc. and Aéropostale Inc. were Abercrombie will cut the ribbon on flagships in Milan and already doing it. Tokyo, this year. Copenhagen will have to wait until next year. Coach is one company that, while heralded as a success The firm also sees opportunity to add more Hollister mall stores Much tinkering and an accessible fashion darling, is also adjusting its ap- in the U.K. “We will continue to approach our international remains to be proach, offering more bags at lower price points. expansion with the discipline that the current environment re- done as the “Growth, if it’s not profitable, isn’t growth at all — it’s just quires and will proceed at a pace with which we feel comfort- industry reinvents. expanding a problem,” Karonis said. “Wall Street has valued growth able,” Jeffries said. and put that up as kind of the key measure of a viable, vibrant com- Tiffany & Co. cut its store openings to 13 this year, down from 22 in 2008. pany in the past. I just don’t think they’re going to place nearly as much THE But the expansion still has an international flavor. The luxe jeweler has stores value on that in the future. You have to earn the right to grow.” A planned in Canada and Mexico, as well as seven in the Asia-Pacific area and one That goes for brands across the price spectrum. woman NEW, in Europe. “While Bulgari’s objective regarding retail used to be maximizing the THE An A.T. Kearney study last year singled out the 10 most attractive emerging mar- prestige, the image, the visibility — and therefore we were opening a lot of A kets for investment. Brazil, China and India topped the list, which also included the new large stores — now it has changed and become efficiency in the distribu- scale United Arab Emirates as the 10th most attractive market. tion network,” said Francesco Trapani, ceo of Italian jeweler Bulgari SpA. PRICE-VALUE LIBERTY IN THE PUSHIER G The global downturn might well force changes to that Bulgari will apply this new standard to new stores and existing doors, some O D Something being W list, as fortunes rise and fall. Witness Dubai and of which will be closed.

E Russia, which both seemed unstoppable just a few All the action could change the geography of fashion. “Fashion markets T NEW with R U months ago but have since faltered dramatically. in advanced countries will not see much business expansion becauseTHE the

S T society is aging, but developing countries will see an increase,”A said Kana Sasaki, an analyst at Tokyo-based Mitsubishi UFJ Securities. “To penny survive NEW offered for another couple of decades, big luxury brands like THEChanel should pro- SOCIETY a CONSUMER 2009 Companies are Growth, if it’s not profitable, tect the equity of brands while expanding merchandiseActual variation.” dollar squeezing what “ An emphasis on smaller chains and quick-turn fashions might also for GAME they can out of NUTS isn’t growth at all — it’s just prompt some sourcing patterns to change,THE even bringing overseas produc- AUSTERITY every penny. tion back to the U.S. market. in Someone “As the dollar inevitably falls, the cost of manufacturing is going social several expanding a problem.­ a sign nuts to become too great,” said Peter Schiff, FUTURE president of Euro Pacific — John Karonis, Kurt Salmon” Associates vice Capital. “A lot of the U.S. fashion industry manufactures in China WE TRU AND OD ST G IN and Mexico. That whole process is becoming increasingly more or Russia’s gross domestic product is expected con- expensive due to shipping costs and the anticipated and dwindling issues, tract by 4.5 percent this year, down from growth of 5.6 foreign currency exchange rates. We can’t just be a giant distri- or different BOLTS money percent last year, according to the World Bank. The bution center where we sell everyone looking else’s goods by credit.” LIBERTY 2009 clamp UAE has also been hit hard, with its GDP is slated to bolts grow by just 2 percent this year, down from about 7.8 percent in 2008, according to the Dubai Chamber of maybe Commerce and Industry. The Future bag The future of fashion might still lie with global players, None of this means companies will outright abandon the strategies or or dresses, but international expansion could be just a dream for some. and methods that helped them get started in through the first place. The fu- ture of fashion, however different, seems likely to be based mostly a on being its present. distribution a on The New Austerity Massimo Ferretti, executive chairman at Aeffe SpA, said his firm was globe sticking with its growth strategy focused on complementary brands and would one Doing more with less is becoming a way of life in the often high- try to make the most of the downturn. “Mindful that a crisis does not have to be but flying fashion industry. seen as a negative, we are looking to be particularly flexible and to revise binoculars our guide- crushed The austerity can be seen far beyond the end, at least temporarily, of Marc Jacobs’ side post-runway party, a twice-annual highlight on the social calendar of many fashionistas. turning Designers are looking at the economy and dramatically changing how they operate. You either waste time commenting on the “The situation is very serious all over the world,” said Domenico Dolce, ceo of and Dolce & Gabbana. “You either waste time commenting on the negatives, or you do “ center the positive thing and do something constructive.” The company’s sales were down in negatives, or you do the positive thing and do under their stores and showrooms and clients delayed their pre-fall buying from November to January and asked to postdate payments. something constructive.­ over a her “Instead of making a certain number of models, you make less,” explained Stefano ”— Domenico Dolce, Dolce & Gabbana handbag Gabbana, chairman of the design house. “But this has nothing to do with creativity…. with a nose You have to do a bit of editing before instead of after. Instead of 1,000 items, you lines based on the contingencies of the market,” Ferretti said. “We are seeking to the produce 500. Anyway, you send out 50 for the runway….The crisis is there, but we focus on the core business, streamline costs and improve overall efficiency.” store continue to make the collections as we did before — actually better [than before] to Aeffe’s efforts include a rationalization of manufacturing processes and working trucks sustain all this.” closer with major retailers. The company is also holding on to its sense of what it horizon. up Empty fashion hype is another casualty of the financial crisis, said Jean-Jacques means to create, sell and own a luxury good. “We do not forget that, even in a period Picart, a Paris-based industry consultant. “The big trend of ‘fashion for fashion’ is of economic crisis, luxury products cannot afford to leave out ingredients like dreams, on to dead,” he said. “Consumers are looking for honesty, respect and value.” desires and aesthetic gratification, which end up representing one’s very essence,” the In the past, creativity was channeled in service of the image and desirability of fash- Ferretti said. “Creativity remains the key to recovery.” going all ion brands, whereas in the future, “creativity will serve the product,” he explained. Amid the crisis, there might be opportunity for the nascent fashion industry in “Passion and reason will be the two important elements for fashion in the future.” China, the world’s largest apparel producer. other of The nips and tucks are happening everywhere. Though the country is losing millions of manufacturing jobs with the downturn, “As a company, we’ll be more attentive to our investments, which will need to have Shen Liuxin, a Shanghai-based professor of international fashion and art, said de- in them a faster turnaround,” said Guido Damiani, chairman and ceo of Damiani SpA, the clines elsewhere could help China’s creative industry. Italian jeweler. “If in the past we would invest in a new store knowing that we would “We should seize this time when the European fashion industry is entering a re- one lose money in the first three years and start making a profit after five, now the break- cession to promote our own brands to an international level,” said Shen. “We should even target has to be shorter otherwise we’ll hold back.” develop our own brands, combining our traditional culture and style.” Damiani said consumers would eventually get used to the situation and start buy- The pieces in the global fashion game are moving, and there’s no telling at this side ing again, but the rebound would be uneven. point what the final picture will look like.

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other WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 13, 2009 11 WWD.COM Financial Securitizations Could Be the New Bank Loans for Some Vendors By Vicki M. Young Montag, a structured finance expert at it,” the lawyer explained. vendors may be somewhat limited now the Baker & McKenzie law firm. Smaller vendors with accounts receiv- because so much, including a vendor’s WELL-POSITIONED VENDORS UNABLE In a traditional loan scenario, assets able less than $100 million will likely credit rating, depends on the stability of to get traditional bank loans could get are pledged to the bank, but that’s a dis- continue to rely on factors, who buy the retailers — hardly at its peak these days. some financial breathing room through advantage in the current economic en- receivables at a discount. Those with at “Securitization has gotten a bad name securitizations that are backed by the vironment because the secured loans go least $100 million in receivables tend due to people trying to securitize mort- cash flow from accounts receivable. on the bank’s balance sheet, upping the to be the ideal candidates that can get a gage debt,” said Jeff Edelman, director Although mortgage-backed securities potential risk to the bottom line. In secu- transaction completed. of retail and consumer advisory services are the most familiar — and recently a ritizations, the loans are with a commer- Harry Steinmetz, an accountant at at accounting firm RSM McGladrey Inc. highly reviled — form, a securitization is cial paper conduit operated by the bank, Weiser LLP, said transactions where the and a former retail analyst. “If it is done any financial instrument formed by the technically putting the loans “off the bal- pool of receivables is less than $100 mil- right, however, it is an OK financing ve- pooling of a group of assets that’s then ance sheet.” Since funding is from the lion are probably not cost effective. hicle. A [financial instrument involving a] sold to investors. Asset-backed securitiza- capital markets, the bank has oversight “The reason why people do securitiza- receivable from a top-notch retailer in a tions have been around for years, can be strong financial position would be easy to divided into smaller pieces and may in- sell to an investment group since the time volve almost any type of financial asset. frame, 30 to 60 days, is relatively short.” In the fashion industry, the asset of Securitization has gotten a bad name due to Edelman said retailers posting declin- choice for securitizations has been the “ ing same-store sales might present a tough- trademark. Examples include the $53 mil- people trying to securitize mortgage debt. er sell in terms of risk to investors, but the lion bond offering in December 2004 by — Jeff Edelman, RSM McGladrey” analysis then should be on some other fac- BCBG Max Azria Group and the $25 mil- tor, such as the long-term viability of the in- lion bond securitization of the Bill Blass but is not taking any risk, said Montag. tions is to lower the cost of money,” he said. dividual retailer or the history of sales and trademarks in 1999. In these instances, The attorney recently has worked He said if a bank charges 6 percent in- profits between vendor and retailer. investment-grade bonds were backed by with banks willing to do more securitized terest on a loan and the securitization has Edelman used Saks Inc. as an exam- the income streams associated with the transactions. Most aren’t advertising these a cost of capital of 4 percent, or 1 percent in ple. He said the retailer has low profit- respective firm’s intellectual property. transactions — partly because of recent transaction fees plus 3 percent interest paid ability because “when Saks went public, In the past, some retailers relied on staff reductions, and the process requires to investors, then a securitization would save it needed a growth story and opened in accounts receivable for securitizations several steps, such as setting up a special the vendor 2 percent in financing costs. some locations that are performing poor- of their own credit card portfolios. The purpose entity and completing the paper- For Steinmetz, the ideal profile of a ven- ly” and are dragging down operations. fashion industry has generally stayed work to obtain an investment grade rating dor firm considering a securitization is one A solid vendor generating good profits away from them, but that could change from credit ratings agencies. that has retail customers that meet three cri- for Saks could lessen risk by shortening as finance executives at fashion firms fa- Lack of knowledge and communica- teria: They can be rated by the ratings agen- the time frame of the receivables, he said. miliarize themselves with the securitiza- tion also are obstacles, Montag said. “The cies, have a broad geographic presence and Edelman pointed out there are a num- tion process and other forms of financing people on the balance-sheet side and have a history of profits and repayments. ber of specialty stores that have no debt, become tougher. those on the conduit side don’t talk to “If a vendor has a retail account that decent cash flow and strong earnings “The use of the trade [or account] re- each other. A company can still get a no represents more than 5 percent of the sup- before interest, taxes, depreciation and ceivable could be timely for the apparel on a loan, but it will be the chief financial plier’s receivables, that may be problemat- amortization over and above the rent ex- industry, as well-positioned companies officer who has to know to ask to speak to ic, because a wide [breadth] of customers pense. “Accounts receivables from these find themselves in a position where someone on the conduit side to get this is needed to spread the risk,” he said. retailers should be fairly easy to sell to they can’t get bank financing,” said Hans type of financing. The cfo has to push for The viability of securitizations for investors,” he concluded.

TPG Sells Remaining Stake in J. Crew Some things should THE 12-YEAR MARRIAGE OF ership of 2.8 million shares of J. Crew Group Inc. and TPG the company as of Dec. 31, rep- never change. Capital has ended. resenting 4.5 percent of J. Crew’s The investment firm that 62 million shares outstanding as brought Millard “Mickey” of Jan. 31. Drexler to the retailer and then TPG, which bought Neiman returned it to public trading has Marcus with Warburg Pincus Document4 7/11/03sold what5:59 remained PM Page of 1its stake. in 2005, acquired a controlling In three sales dated April stake in J. Crew in 1997 and took 8, Fort Worth, Tex.-based TPG the company public in 2006. sold a little more than 2.8 mil- Immediately after the IPO, the lion shares of J. Crew for $41.3 private equity firm owned 40 million, according to filings with percent of the firm but has slow- the Securities and Exchange ly reduced its holdings since. Commission. TPG claimed own- — Matthew Lynch

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Financial Misses’ Customer Proving a Tough Target to Hit By Alexandra Steigrad son as she was 15 to 20 years ago,” Ben-Shabat said, explaining that women are moving away from a “clas- THE DOWNTURN AMONG MISSES’ SPECIALTY sic, conservative” look that focused mostly on fit and store retailers, which began almost 18 months ago, comfort. Instead, she is dressing younger and moving might lag an eventual recovery because there are few toward more contemporary apparel. signs of workable strategies to reinvigorate the catego- Although the weak economy has heightened price r y, analysts said. sensitivity, Ben-Shabat said for misses’ retailers to re- The Baby Boomer customers, part of a postwar genera- bound, “price is not the solution. The solution is in the tion that grew accustomed to continuous changes in style, merchandise.” If things do not change, Ben-Shabat said the migra- 041309-WW-Retailers-01-05 are shopping for value at mass retailers like Wal-Mart Stores Inc. and Target Corp. For fashion, they are going to tion of the Boomer shopper could spell more trouble department stores that are offering compelling deals. for misses’ retailers in the long run. While this custom- Comparable-store sales at most misses’ retailers er may not entirely abandon these retailers, she may turned negative around the holiday time of 2006 “when change her shopping habits once she has begun buying the economy was quite good,” said Citigroup retail ana- merchandise from other brands and stores. lyst Kimberly Greenberger. “I think these retailers have Though the problems might be systemic, the pull- been underperforming for two years and shareholders’ back in consumer spending hasn’t helped. According patience only goes so far.” to MasterCard Advisors’ SpendingPulse, a service that Instead of reacting immediately to ingrained prob- estimates total national retail sales across all payment lems such as tired fashion, many misses’ retailers sim- forms, including checks and cash, women’s retail sales ply tried to tweak the previous year’s assortment, con- have contracted more than 20 percent on a year-over- tributing to the contraction being witnessed now. year basis since December. Although sales were down “Merchandising through incremental changes is not 20.2 percent, 21.6 percent and 24.2 percent, in December, enticing to customers,” she January and February, respec- said. “These retailers need tively, Michael McNamara, to update, and by update, The misses’ consumer today SpendingPulse vice president I mean throw it out and go “ of research and analysis, said back to the drawing board.” is not the same person as she he thinks declines may be lev- She cited The Talbots Inc. eling off. The women’s num- as one of the many misses’ was 15 to 20 years ago. bers are worse than those in chains that remains over- men’s wear and footwear. stored. The retailer is trying to — Hana Ben-Shabat, A.T.” Kearney Liz Dunn, retail analyst at sell its J. Jill women’s clothing Thomas Weisel, said, “There chain, acquired in 2006, and recently unveiled plans to cut is something specific to the misses’ sector. This sector is 370 jobs, or 17 percent of its corporate-level workforce, in trouble. Boomer women don’t want to look like every- and close about 20 of its 869 stores. Previously, Talbots ex- one else. It’s different from teens who want to blend in.” ited its kids’ and men’s businesses. As the company seeks Factor in that “there are no [fashion] trends” in the to slash $150 million in expenses, its majority shareholder, misses’ group, with the reality that the older shopper Japan’s Aeon Co. Ltd., committed in February to provide a has “sustained deeper market losses” than other demo- $200 million unsecured term loan facility. graphics, she said. “Talbots’ reckoning day has been postponed,” said Dunn pointed to misses’ apparel giant, AnnTaylor Greenberger, who said with the new loan, the retailer Stores Corp. — the career fashion specialist that said has a real chance to turn things around and appears to it was accelerating its annual store closing plans to 163 be moving in the right fashion direction. from 117 after posting a larger-than-expected fourth- “They are doing all the right things,” she said, point- quarter loss last month — as a retailer that needs to ing to the cost-cutting initiatives and fresh assortment work on merchandising. put together under chief executive officer, and Liz “They can’t seem to get a consistent trend for one of their Claiborne Inc. alumna, Trudy F. Sullivan. brands for more than a couple of seasons,” she said. “They Bold moves from misses’ retailers like Talbots are put a bullet in the customer. They change too much.” necessary in this environment, said A. T. Kearney part- For the three months ended Jan. 31, the New York- ner and retail specialist Hana Ben-Shabat, who noted based specialty retailer posted a net loss of $375.6 Ann Taylor posted a larger-than-expected fourth-quarter loss last that central to this group’s problem is a “very outdated” million. Even excluding impairment charges, the loss month, while Coldwater Creek has registered consecutive comp definition of its target customer. was $58.1 million, almost twice what analysts had ex- declines since the second quarter of 2007. “The misses’ consumer today is not the same per- pected. Net sales fell 19.5 percent, to $483.4 million, and dropped 24.5 percent on a comparable-store basis. Jennifer Black of Jennifer Black & Associates said if Ann Taylor’s merchandise doesn’t We See Opportunities improve this fall, she doesn’t “be- lieve that this company will get Where Others See Issues any more chances.” Black said while Ann Taylor’s new line has Successful companies take advantage of the opportunities that changing times a good chance of succeeding, the present. But growing companies often face financial issues in times of change. retailer runs risks because its in- It takes a knowledgeable eye to see beyond fixed formulas or capital ratios to ventory is so low. But if the com- pany’s recent assortments are fully comprehend the complex financial needs of businesses. For over 70 years, any indication of what’s to come, mid-size and large businesses have relied on Rosenthal & Rosenthal to manage then it appears Ann Taylor has their accounts receivable and to provide timely financing for growth. Business “lost its identity,” she said. owners and managers have access to the key decision makers at Rosenthal, “The fashion has not been which enables them to obtain quick and informed responses to their most cohesive at all,” Black said. “All the cost cutting and inventory pressing business needs. tightening in the world won’t Domestic & International Factoring—Letters of Credit save this company if they can’t get the customer back.” Working Capital Loans—Term Loans—Collateral Management Services Ann Taylor president and chief executive officer Kay Krill told analysts on the fourth-quar- ter earnings call: “While we have acknowledged that our product assortments could and should have been more modern and versatile, we believe that much of the softness we are experienc- ing relates directly to the impact the recession is having on pro- NEW YORK LOS ANGELES SHANGHAI fessional working women.” Krill declined a request for For a confidential consultation, please contact Michael Stanley: an interview. 212 356-1497 or [email protected] Black said it still comes down ROSENTHALINC.COM to merchandise and that the com- pany’s decision to draw down $125 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 13, 2009 13 WWD.COM Financial Misses’ Customer Proving a Tough Target to Hit million on its $250 million credit facility as a precautionary Dyer noted the company’s White House|Black Market measure suggests a lack of confidence in the fall line. division, which is geared to a customer in her late 20s to “This action serves as a signal to us that the company early 40s, could comp positive every month going forward. does not feel confident in its ability to fund its busi- In last year’s final quarter, the firm lost $40.5 million, ness from existing cash and cash flow from operations, $15.7 million of it attributable to impairment and sever- though the company insisted that this was not the case,” ance. Sales dropped 8.8 percent, to $373.4 million, and Black wrote in a recent note. “If they truly don’t need were off 13 percent on a comp basis. The firm has dis- the $125 million, we think they shot themselves in the continued the monthly reporting of its comps. foot by drawing on the credit facility.” Whitfield sees Coldwater Creek Inc. as having similar Either way, Ann Taylor said it ended the year with problems. “Their business fell off a cliff,” she said, and $112 million in cash, with about $60 million in operating the retailer has posted consecutive comp declines since cash flow and more than $30 million in net cash flow in the second quarter of 2007. the fourth quarter, putting the retailer in good standing. Coldwater president and chief merchandising of- Conserving cash by lowering expenses in uncer- ficer Georgia Shonk-Simmons appeared to agree with tain times is a common theme among these retailers, Whitfield’s assessment that the merchandise became said Sterne, Agee & Leach retail analyst Margaret dated and pointed out the retailer is upping its fashion Whitfield. content by integrating more shaped items and fitted fab- “The best we can hope for is that these retailers rics into its assortment. tighten up their expenses,” she said, explaining that “It’s not taking the brand younger,” she said. “We most merchandise changes won’t come soon enough have these customers coming into the store, but we to make a difference this spring. Updated fashion is a recognize that we need a more relevant assortment to “second-half story,” she said. “September will be a bell- attract the same level of engagement for them as we wether month for this group.” currently have for the broader base. So it’s just a subtle Whitfield mentioned Chico’s FAS Inc. as a retailer shift and we have stores that are large enough.” with a “preexisting” merchandise problem that needed But Thomas Weisel’s Dunn said that Coldwater’s prob- correction, mainly in the company’s namesake brand. lem is that “it does not have much brand awareness.” “The product grew very stale,” she said. At some point, The company recorded a fourth-quarter net loss of Chico’s “went too young,” targeting a shopper in her 40s, $18.6 million as sales fell 18 percent, to $283.2 million, and lost her core customer, a woman in her early 50s. and comps slid 21.4 percent. Long gone is Chico’s string of double-digit compara- Although Dunn and some other analysts agree misses’ ble-store sales increases. The company is regrouping, retailing probably won’t rebound to where it was at its peak, hiring Cynthia Murray as brand president after the Kathy Bradley-Riley, senior vice president of merchandis- January appointment of former Tommy Hilfiger and ing for The Doneger Group, is slightly more optimistic. Lands’ End chief David Dyer as president and ceo. Bradley-Riley characterized the misses’ customer as “I think we went away from some of the more sophis- “less brand loyal” than before, with a “way younger mind- ticated and unique and special looks that we have,” set” than her mother, yet she still sees “sparks out there.” Long gone is Chico’s string of double-digit comparable-store Dyer said on the company’s fourth-quarter earnings call. “If we give her something new, she responds,” sales increases; analysts include Talbots as one of the many “We’re going to be bringing those back.” Bradley-Riley said. “She hasn’t shut down completely.” misses’ chains that remains overstored. 14 WWD, monday, april 13, 2009 WWD.COM Financial For full weekly stock changes, see WWD.com. Herman Hits $100M at QVC Weekly Stocks 52-Week Volume Amt 52-Week Volume Amt By Karyn Monget High Low Companies P/E Last Change High Low Companies P/E Last Change Stan Herman, designer of robes, lounge­ ‑ 77.25 13.66 Abercrombie & Fitch (ANF) 8.4 22262463 24.76 -2.18 50.35 8.02 J. Crew (JCG) 10.1 9621923 16.25 1.20 wear and sleepwear bearing his name, reached the 26.78 8.50 Acadia (AKR) 13.9 1264335 12.19 0.25 46.56 13.71 J.C. Penney (JCP) 8.8 27283461 25.42 2.36 $100 million milestone at QVC in mid-March. 3.78 0.43 Aeffe * (AEF:MI) 8.9 907824 0.63 0.03 7.70 2.00 Jaclyn (JCLY) - 7630 3.40 -0.45 Herman, who has sold his products on the shopping 37.40 12.52 Aéropostale (ARO) 12.2 14342315 30.22 1.95 1.67 0.22 Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ) 4.9 427904 0.52 0.17 network since 1995, licensed his brand to the Carole 29.40 19.32 Alberto Culver (ACV) 9.9 2658016 22.94 0.19 22.12 2.34 Jones Apparel (JNY) - 5252453 6.39 1.12 Hochman Design Group in 2004. The Hochman firm 10.25 1.20 American Apparel (APP) 18.2 2677413 3.98 0.74 41.71 15.38 Jos. A. Bank (JOSB) 11.8 5561934 36.61 6.19 manufactures and distributes Herman’s signature col‑ 19.42 6.98 American Eagle (AEO) 14.5 25935125 13.98 0.90 19.74 4.89 Kenneth Cole (KCP) - 128628 7.13 0.22 lection to major stores, as well as exclusives for the $7.3 billion QVC. 29.23 2.41 Ann Taylor (ANN) - 10040606 6.77 0.33 47.80 6.33 Kimco Realty (KIM) 11.5 79554478 10.28 0.88 “I’m one of the oldest designer names on QVC 420.00 112.50 Asos * (ASC:L) 40.8 2535996 350.00 34.75 56.00 24.28 Kohl’s (KSS) 15.6 28383856 45.40 0.09 along with Bob Mackie, who came on around the same 45.34 14.40 Avon (AVP) 10.2 11803302 22.08 0.84 20.76 6.44 K-Swiss (KSWS) 14.9 582089 9.36 -0.20 time,” Herman said. 11.66 4.57 Bebe (BEBE) 15.0 1725613 7.55 0.07 17.63 7.00 LaCrosse Footwear (BOOT) 7.9 43018 7.75 -0.25 “Joan Rivers has been 56.72 29.42 Beiersdorf * (BEI:GR) 13.7 2003795 33.94 -0.41 22.16 5.98 Limited Brands (LTD) 14.7 20468279 10.67 0.48 on for 18 years. When 13.30 4.30 Benetton Group * (BEN:MI) 6.7 703904 5.70 0.10 20.14 1.46 Liz Claiborne (LIZ) - 9352251 4.11 0.92 I was first approached, 4.33 0.20 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) - 700 0.43 -0.02 3.99 0.35 LJ Intl. (JADE) 8.0 276421 0.70 0.00 somebody came to 44.29 27.26 BJs (BJ) 14.9 7680653 32.04 -1.37 99.97 46.00 L’Oréal * (OR:PA) 16.3 3600901 53.66 0.18 me and said, ‘There’s 0.29 0.03 Blue (BLHI) - 35856 0.04 0.01 37.33 4.33 Lululemon (LULU) 15.4 2459930 10.84 0.64 a customer who 4.84 0.32 Bluefly (BFLY) - 31510 1.37 -0.01 26.66 9.41 Luxottica * (LUX:MI) 15.1 4486100 12.70 0.72 shops at home and wears loungewear.’ 10.50 0.76 Bon-Ton (BONT) - 442580 1.59 0.02 89.36 38.10 LVMH * (MC:PA) 12.2 4965967 51.95 0.10 Nobody had ever sold 18.44 2.04 Brown Shoe (BWS) 5.7 2138207 5.24 0.16 76.50 5.45 Macerich (MAC) 3.9 17271987 12.08 2.24 loungewear like that 44.57 13.57 Buckle (BKE) 15.8 5562021 36.97 1.86 27.08 5.07 Macy’s Inc. (M) 13.7 58431498 11.88 1.52 before. It was an im‑ 11.48 2.76 Bulgari * (BUL:MI) 12.8 12100358 3.53 0.14 17.59 6.25 Maidenform (MFB) 9.1 390802 10.34 0.27 mediate hit because a 686.50 154.75 Burberry * (BRBY:L) 9.9 14372309 330.00 -20.00 669.00 191.90 Marks & Spencer * (MKS:L) 7.9 38804153 317.25 1.25 lot of women don’t like 16.25 4.18 Cabela’s (CAB) 8.7 1994182 10.64 0.15 27.64 8.33 Men’s Wearhouse (MW) 12.4 4483452 18.95 1.49 trying on clothes in 14.86 1.41 Caché (CACH) 15.8 394412 3.25 -0.02 26.17 4.65 Movado (MOV) 4.9 956703 7.83 -0.59 stores, and QVC’s re‑ 54.20 22.06 Carrefour * (CA:PA) 16.7 13995772 30.05 -0.26 25.00 10.03 National Retail Prop. (NNN) 10.5 10149225 18.03 -0.05 turn policy is so easy.” 22.35 11.94 Carter (CRI) 15.6 2942339 21.61 1.63 12.12 0.82 New York & Co. (NWY) - 2150883 4.42 -0.13 Doug Howe, chief 4.95 0.26 Casual Male (CMRG) - 1479102 0.50 -0.08 0.15 0.05 NexCen (NEXC) - 596720 0.12 0.00 merchandising officer 20.00 11.30 Cato (CTR) 18.8 941803 18.94 -0.20 70.28 38.24 Nike (NKE) 13.5 13408095 53.27 1.40 at QVC, said, “Part of our business model is 27.55 1.92 CBL (CBL) 20.5 11839670 3.73 0.73 0.75 0.02 Nitches (NICH) - 15500 0.09 0.02 customer engagement, 9.15 2.05 CCA (CAW) 15.2 22200 3.05 0.14 38.65 6.61 Nordstrom (JWN) 10.2 29710103 21.91 2.43 and Stan has a won‑ 1.40 0.18 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) - 24346 0.33 -0.06 14.99 5.95 Orchids Paper (TIS) 24.6 99434 14.20 -0.20 Stan Herman shows off a derful way of talking 19.06 3.98 Charlotte Russe (CHIC) 101.8 2048632 10.40 0.81 29.88 3.14 Oxford (OXM) 7.1 733876 7.53 0.17 best-selling wrap robe. to customers. Stan is a 6.35 0.45 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) - 2598182 2.15 0.03 14.04 0.72 Pacific Sunwear (PSUN) - 5568293 1.67 0.00 wonderful ambassador 82.00 50.10 Chattem (CHTT) 15.7 3963150 53.40 1.40 7.15 0.59 Parlux Fragrances (PARL) - 1262608 1.38 0.52 of QVC.…We take live calls from customers and Stan’s 33.85 11.29 Cherokee (CHKE) 10.1 105022 17.54 0.29 27.88 2.20 Penn Real Estate (PEI) - 3613197 5.79 0.89 the best at that by asking questions such as, ‘What did 8.18 1.72 Chico’s (CHS) - 16210405 6.92 0.43 29.27 3.31 Perry Ellis (PERY) 3.3 418409 4.42 0.37 you buy? What do you like about it?’” 43.40 16.45 Children’s Place (PLCE) 7.8 5122701 24.63 -0.05 47.94 13.04 Phillips-Van Heusen (PVH) 8.0 2935195 26.41 1.73 Howe said in the past 15 years, Herman has sold 12.19 2.46 Christopher & Banks (CBK) 71.4 886530 4.89 -0.11 2.02 0.11 Phoenix Footwear (PXG) - 85679 0.20 0.04 “more than five million units” on QVC. “He’s not only a great partner in growing his own 33.73 18.09 Cintas (CTAS) 11.9 5408916 25.93 0.34 82.02 31.22 Polo Ralph Lauren (RL) 9.9 6217613 48.73 1.51 business, but a great partner by introducing several 28.12 7.01 Citi Trends (CTRN) 21.3 890680 24.26 0.76 141.50 31.06 PPR * (PP:PA) 13.6 3939409 57.98 1.83 [designer] partners when he was president of the 37.64 11.41 Coach (COH) 8.1 19530217 18.86 0.21 29.73 10.35 PriceSmart (PSMT) 13.2 533439 20.24 0.40 CFDA,” Howe added. 8.31 0.91 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) - 1077405 3.02 0.22 10.42 0.80 Quiksilver (ZQK) - 4108932 1.35 0.00 Regarding top-selling items, Herman said, “The 80.49 54.36 Colgate Palmolive (CL) 16.6 12864242 59.80 -0.64 8.84 4.85 R.G. Barry (DFZ) 6.4 44833 5.45 0.17 number-one sellers always have some form of zip 21.00 3.85 Collective Brands (PSS) 24.0 4733700 11.43 -0.09 24.10 3.45 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 5.9 653132 8.90 2.00 wrap, long or short. The second top sellers are two- 49.49 24.63 Columbia Sprtswr (COLM) 11.6 662214 33.34 0.30 73.55 20.72 Regency Centers (REG) 18.8 12406853 36.69 5.00 piece lounge sets. We always show live with two 75.23 38.17 Costco (COST) 17.5 24773571 46.90 -2.01 5.58 0.90 Retail Ventures (RVI) 1.2 613158 1.89 -0.01 models, one who is an extra small and the other who 20.98 0.79 Crocs (CROX) - 6390793 1.64 -0.16 14.85 2.30 Revlon (REV) 2.4 641384 2.67 -0.18 is a 1X. I stand in the middle and say. ‘Look, this is 0.18 0.02 Cygne Designs (CYDS) - 2730 0.06 0.00 83.00 14.18 Richemont * (CFR:VX) 4.8 10894385 20.90 0.88 the way clothing should look.’ That’s one of the big 146.60 37.24 Deckers Outdoor (DECK) 10.7 2608277 64.48 5.52 41.56 21.70 Ross Stores (ROST) 16.7 12886002 39.68 2.73 strengths of QVC.” Herman’s designs retail from $35 to $50 on QVC. 3.50 1.38 Delia’s (DLIA) 167.0 142342 1.66 0.00 3.72 0.28 Safilo * (SFL:MI) 9.0 4182307 0.45 0.01 The designer said he was “extremely honored” that 8.35 2.09 Delta Apparel (DLA) 8.2 6300 5.00 0.06 14.58 1.50 Saks (SKS) - 10796231 2.82 0.21 QVC is celebrating the $100 million milestone by 18.46 4.42 Destination Maternity (DEST) - 9309 6.39 0.43 108.75 26.80 Sears (SHLD) 119.0 4766250 52.49 -2.20 making a donation to the University of Cincinnati’s 45.00 1.38 Developers Diversified (DDR) - 25464537 3.12 0.41 106.43 24.27 Simon Properties (SPG) 19.7 47336957 42.99 1.69 Stan Herman Fashion Library Fund at the Robert 23.11 2.50 Dillard’s (DDS) - 2984076 6.93 0.33 25.20 5.20 Skechers (SKX) 6.1 1983155 8.15 -0.10 A. Deshon and Karl J. Schlachter Library for 17.93 6.16 Dress Barn (DBRN) 11.2 4582318 14.15 0.90 3.37 0.13 Sport-Haley (SPOR) - 6500 0.33 0.02 Design, Architecture, Art and Planning. Herman 16.32 6.66 DSW (DSW) 13.2 888633 11.25 0.20 5.90 0.99 Stein Mart (SMRT) - 717595 3.50 0.12 received an honorary doctorate in fine arts from 16.65 7.09 Duckwall-Alco (DUCK) - 84471 10.00 0.00 29.00 13.37 Steve Madden (SHOO) 13.0 1116105 21.09 0.40 the school in 2008. 8.72 0.30 Eddie Bauer (EBHI) - 7303778 0.40 -0.10 76.50 23.05 Swatch Group * (UHRN:SW) - 598837 31.80 0.85 21.79 3.93 Elizabeth Arden (RDEN) - 486787 6.90 0.15 17.86 4.22 Syms (SYMS) - 55217 6.12 -0.80 54.75 19.81 Estée Lauder (EL) 12.1 8921523 26.70 0.02 17.97 1.19 Talbots (TLB) - 1646030 3.91 -0.52 WEEKLY 35.00 18.43 Family Dollar (FDO) 20.2 20576178 34.33 2.43 6.99 1.25 Tandy Brands (TBAC) - 18450 2.38 0.68 12.43 3.42 Finish Line (FINL) - 5089778 7.52 0.09 3.37 1.55 Tandy Leather Factory (TLF) 8.9 12200 2.10 -0.40 CHANGE WWD 37.98 11.00 Fossil (FOSL) 8.4 2459920 18.67 1.06 46.30 24.62 Tanger Factory Outlet (SKT) 45.9 6173969 34.90 0.43 ENDING 2.80 0.12 Frederick’s of Hollywood (FOH) - 96310 0.54 0.02 59.55 25.00 Target (TGT) 13.1 55116648 39.89 3.21 ( APRIL 10 ) INDEX 15.91 8.22 Freds (FRED) 48.0 1139511 12.75 0.66 0.81 0.21 Tarrant Apparel (TAGS) - 225219 0.80 -0.01 % 196.75 30.00 French Connection * (FCCN:L) - 79767 56.50 -1.00 92.35 12.43 Taubman (TCO) - 8548144 19.68 1.42 20.80 9.41 Gap (GPS) 10.7 48740785 15.09 -0.16 3.85 0.18 Tefron (TFRFF) - 0 3.51 0.00 Gainers Change Composite 44.23 0.24 General Growth (GGP) 8.5 99135291 0.95 0.23 49.98 16.70 Tiffany & Co. (TIF) 12.9 10424265 24.22 0.77 Parlux Fragrances 60.47 718.15 38.74 10.37 Genesco (GCO) 4.0 1267636 21.73 1.22 19.41 7.19 Timberland (TBL) 18.1 2153175 14.76 0.76 Joe’s Jeans 48.53 23.00 3.24 G-III Apparel (GIII) 5.6 446819 6.31 -0.20 37.52 17.80 TJX Cos. (TJX) 13.3 28810606 27.58 0.90 Tandy Brands 40.00 37.07 5.66 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 8.8 5033095 9.83 0.33 64.48 25.23 Tod’s * (TOD:MI) 13.0 174709 35.70 -0.21 General Growth 31.94 13.46 0.75 Glimcher (GRT) - 1393175 2.05 0.31 31.82 7.80 True Religion (TRLG) 6.8 2543086 13.08 -0.37 38.15 15.32 G&K (GKSR) 13.6 351679 24.06 1.99 24.11 1.01 Tween Brands (TWB) - 1312790 3.08 0.49 Weingarten 29.04 0.96 0.02 Gottschalks (GOTTQ) - 157311 0.02 -0.01 43.52 11.94 Under Armour (UA) 23.0 2631038 18.91 0.84 45.15 10.26 Guess (GES) 9.1 5713992 23.23 0.21 5.43 0.44 Unifi (UFI) - 762307 0.88 0.03 Decliners Change 47.69 14.02 Gymboree (GYMB) 7.0 6008026 27.46 4.69 34.73 16.95 Unilever (UL) - 7081642 19.30 -0.59 Eddie Bauer -19.79 10.25 1.50 Hampshire (HAMP) - 1000 5.25 0.00 38.40 12.33 Urban Outfitters (URBN) 13.8 16937293 17.34 0.72 Tandy Leather Factory -16.00 37.73 5.14 Hanesbrands (HBI) 8.2 4197869 12.79 1.16 84.60 38.22 VF Corp. (VFC) 11.6 4090002 66.06 1.69 Charles & Colvard -15.41 0.53 0.01 Hartmarx (HTMXQ) - 364138 0.03 0.00 28.88 6.39 Volcom (VLCM) 12.3 1113959 12.03 0.63 Casual Male -13.79 433.50 239.50 Hennes & Mauritz * (HMB:ST) 18.9 10258399 341.00 8.00 63.85 46.25 Wal-Mart (WMT) 15.5 88212468 50.66 -3.14 -6.25 131.89 59.42 Hermès * (RMS:PA) 32.8 1039175 90.65 3.64 53.89 12.22 Warnaco (WRC) 25.6 5076146 28.55 1.18 Talbots -11.74 12.39 4.34 Hot Topic (HOTT) 26.1 7989004 11.52 -0.73 40.00 7.96 Weingarten (WRI) 8.9 15046120 14.62 3.29 21.09 13.23 IAC Interactive (IACI) - 4544664 16.51 0.60 5.54 1.85 Wet Seal (WTSLA) 9.8 1999816 3.93 0.23 * Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency of 18.49 5.11 Iconix (ICON) 8.5 2515703 10.82 0.83 41.99 20.11 Weyco (WEYS) 16.7 41904 26.55 -0.55 their principal exchanges. Shares on the London Stock Exchange 53.90 23.29 Inditex * (ITX:MC) 16.2 8003371 32.75 0.50 31.21 13.15 Wolverine (WWW) 8.8 1594728 17.97 0.93 are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quot- ed in Swiss francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quoted in Swedish 19.96 3.50 Inter Parfums (IPAR) 6.9 274259 7.23 0.95 30.89 0.89 Zale (ZLC) - 5612667 4.19 0.03 kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. 1.96 0.00 IT Holding * (ITH:MI) - 0 0.18 0.00 28.84 4.50 Zumiez (ZUMZ) 17.3 1288881 9.69 -0.85 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 13, 2009 15 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS Professional Services

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For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise. Spaces Costume Jewelry COMMERCIAL Senior Designer $80 - 100K + Bonus REAL ESTATE New York City’s most prestigious global Accounts Receivable/Credit Assist to $40K . costume jewelry manufacturing/ distribu- PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Min 1-2 years exp in credit dealing tion company seeks creative entrepreneu- w/factor disputes, returns, POD’s, etc. rial costume jewelry designer. Responsible PRODUCTIONS PRODUCTIONS Middlesex County, NJ. for producing majority of creative Retail Store Manager $100 - 120K + All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Full service shop to the trade. [email protected] 973-564-9236 products. Must have costume jewelry bonus. Must have current exp in Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. design experience. Supports sales and better/expensive mens suit store. Strong sell - liaise with sourcing and purchasing er. Midtown store. $3,000 men’s suits, etc Showrooms & Lofts Patterns, Samples, Printing Service BOOKKEEPER departments. Will be responsible for [email protected] 973-564-9236 BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Productions, Cutting High tech digital prints on knits and Wholesaler is looking for a 10 year min. staff of sample makers. Communicate Great ’New’ Office Space Avail woven in any size; fast service. exp’d bookkeeper to work, twice a week. with diverse U.S. clientele on all new Any styles. Fine, fast work. Send resume to: [email protected] ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Call Lucy 212-840-1136 Contact: [email protected] ideas. Knowledge of global trends and or fax to: 212-764-6987 markets. Liaise with CEO and COO. Strong communication skills. Tremendous Controller $110-125K potential, unique opportunity. Please CPA required. Must have exp in send resume in MS Word format to: garment industry. Able to supervise 20 [email protected] indiv. Garment co. tax expertise required. North Central NJ. Career opp. JARALINC@comcast. net 973-564-9236 Designer $100 - 125K. Current exp required in girls or Jr. surf wear /rollerskater wear/bicycle wear. Must Controller to $110K. Current exp in gar- hang w/ Billabong, etc. Product devel + travel ment or fashion accessory co. required. Will [email protected] 973-564-9236 report to Director of Finance of FREELANCE (or FT) EXPERT $100 mill volume co. Midtown co. PLANNING DIRECTOR [email protected] 973-564-9236 Designer/Product Devel/$100-125K. Walmart, Target, Sears, JCPenney, Biling Chinese/English Kohls, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, and required. Crrnt exp in developing girls Federated. Has your recent downsize 4-16 sprtswr inception to completion required. left you short staffed? Or are you a [email protected] 973-564-9236 small company that has secured an ac- count w/major retailer? 12 yrs exp. in SRI SEARCH INC building planning depts. Analysis/ APPAREL/ HOME FASHION allocate/ manage replenishment pro- 212-465-8300 grams. Planning, forecasting, sales Allen Platt /Jennifer Glenn analysis. Email: [email protected] www.srisearch.com 16 WWD, MONDAY, APRIL 13, 2009 WWD.COM Restraining Orders Despite snow last week, swimsuit season is fast approaching. Worried about the extra inches but don’t want to become an antisocial vegan hermit? WWD asked a few of the city’s top nutritionists to pick healthy — but still satisfying — meals at four fashion-favored eateries. It’s as close as you can get to having your cake and eating it, too.

AT BARNEYS t LA GRENOUILLE fred’s NEW YORK LA ESQUINA INDOCHINE ts n restaura tthe experts Heather Bauer, ORDER: La salade d’endives, poires ORDER: Market salad; grilled hen-of- ORDER: Ceviche estilo Acapulco ORDER: Spicy beef salad (dressing RD, CDN founder et noix au roquefort (endive and the-woods mushrooms; tuna tartare; (fish, lime, avocado, tomato, on the side); summer roll of of nu-train and pear salad with roquefort cheese); la roasted asparagus; chicken paillard; jalapeno); ensalada mixta (cabbage, shrimp and chicken (try to avoid dietitians Stephanie sole grillée, sauce moutarde (grilled pan-seared salmon (with sautéed string beans, cucumber, red overdipping rolls in the peanut Middleberg, MS, Dover sole with mustard sauce); spinach and tomato-scallion salad). onion, tomato, queso fresco and sauce); steamed Chilean sea bass RD, CDN and Dara le poulet paillard with thyme and get the mustard vinaigrette on the (in a black bean chili paste, with a Godfrey, MS, RD braised lettuce (from the bar menu). AVOID: Grilled calamari (it’s lightly side); mango y jicama (jalapeno sesame-ginger soy broth on a bed of “Order two breaded) and Mark’s Madison vinaigrette on the side). bok choy). appetizers, making sure one is a salad AVOID: Les quenelles de brochet Avenue Salad, because it has a lot or a vegetable and the other is protein- lyonnaise (although fish can be of added fats. If you only include AVOID: Ensalada de la casa (it has AVOID: Grilled eggplant; steamed based; or just order a main course. healthy, “lyonnaise” preparation one or two fats — for example, too many fats in it) and elotes Vietnamese ravioli; grilled salmon If you are still hungry, order a side of includes cream, bread crumbs and the dressing (on the side) and the callejeros (it’s corn, but it’s with teriyaki plum sauce (salmon steamed vegetables. Also, have your an onion butter sauce). avocado — this salad could work. smothered in butter and rolled in is healthy, but the sauce is likely water glass filled at least three times.” cheese). high in sugar and salt).

Oz Garcia, Ph.D. ORDER: La salade d’endives, poires et ORDER: Grilled shrimp with lime ORDER: Mango y jicama; ceviche ORDER: Spicy beef salad; filet “Opt for red sauces noix au roquefort (ask for no cheese and ginger; tuna tartare; roasted estilo Acapulco; pollo con mole mignon carpaccio; summer roll instead of white, and the dressing on the side); asparagus; Estelle’s chicken soup; negro (half a roasted chicken, of vegetables and king crab; which are usually la sole grillée, sauce moutarde; crab and shrimp salad with endive, toasted sesame seeds, string beans grilled salmon (ask for light on the the healthier homard et lotte aux endives (lobster radicchio and arugula; certified and white rice). sauce); roasted boneless Cornish option. After and monkfish with endives); le bass Angus sliced steak; black pepper hen; vegetarian assortment. ordering, drink a à la sauge et courge (bass with sage crusted tuna (served with baby bok AVOID: Empanadas de chorizo, glass of water or and butternut squash). choy and mixed-green salad). flautas de rabo (oxtail taquitos) and AVOID: The fried spring rolls and tea, and be wary of restaurant portions, carnitas Michoacán (crispy pork crispy whole red snapper. which can be two to eight times the AVOID: Le bisque de homard (lobster AVOID: Chicken alla parmigiana and tacos). size of a regular portion. If you do want bisque) and oxtail braisé au vin de the pizzas. an alcoholic drink, opt for a glass of red Bourgogne (braised oxtail). wine, which contains reservatrol — a powerful antioxidant.”

Tanya Zuckerbrot, ORDER: Le poulet de grain rôti ORDER: Grilled hen-of-the-woods ORDER: Vuelve a la vida (yellow- ORDER: Spicy beef salad; filet MS, RD, founder of forestière (grain-fed roasted chicken mushrooms; grilled shrimp with fin tuna and shellfish ceviche mignon carpaccio; summer roll of Skinny in the City with mushrooms); les cuisses de lime and ginger; tuna tartare; with tomatoes and chipotle); vegetable and king crab; steamed “Before heading grenouille sautées à la Provençale Estelle’s chicken soup; chicken ensalada mixta (without cheese Chilean sea bass; Vietnamese out, grab a piece (frogs legs sautéed provençale style paillard; black pepper crusted tuna; and the dressing on the side); bouillabaisse (sea scallops, prawns, of fruit or high — but ask for light on the sauce or pan seared salmon. pollo Dominguero tradicional (get shrimp, baby squid, mussels fiber cracker with sauce on the side). it without the papas fritas and ask and cabbage, in a lime leaf and a low-fat cheese AVOID: Lasagna bolognese and the for double string beans instead); galangal sauce). so that you keep away from the bread AVOID: Les quenelles de brochet pumpkin tortelloni. pescado a las brasos (grilled fish of basket. Don’t drink your calories. Stick “lyonnaise” and le choix des hors the day, with sautéed onions grilled to wine or hard liquor with no-calorie d’oeuvres. (Many French appetizers vegetables). AVOID: Crispy red snapper; crispy mixer like seltzer, diet soda or olive are high in saturated fat, so you shrimp and crispy bean curd juice and always have a glass of water are better off with a salad or a AVOID: Costillas de puerco (glazed (whenever you see “crispy,” read on hand. noncream-based soup.) pork spare ribs) and fried plantains. “fried”). i k ls

*Editor’s note: Menu options may change seasonally. Our nutritionists analyzed menus posted on menupages.com and nymag.com. e Kobi Making the leap from an independent record to Chairlift’s sound. ek label to a major one is no easy feat. Neither is landing a song And though Polachek and Pfenning do most of the writing, on an iPod commercial. But Brooklyn-based dream-pop trio they say the group is highly collaborative. op Chairlift has accomplished both in just 16 months. Their catchy “Caroline and I write the songs separately initially and T “Bruises” accompanies a multihued Nano TV ad, and the group then we work through them with Patrick. He’s really good with Maci hairlift by C

will release a spiffed-up version of their debut “Does You Inspire arrangement,” says Pfenning. The outcome — which has been n; e s

You” April 21 on Columbia Records. described as hypnotic synth-pop — reflects the band’s name. k And whereas some bands might have been disappointed to “A chairlift gives you a wide panoramic view of something, Eric revamp an album that dropped almost a year ago, Chairlift saw very atmospheric,” explains Pfenning. “The music somewhat e it as an opportunity. “The way I like to put it is when George translates.” Patrick Wimberly,Wimberly, AaronAaron PfenningPfenning the Lucas rereleased ‘Star Wars,’ he went back and color corrected Starting this spring, the trio will begin a yearlong tour for the a few things and made it the way he always envisioned it. and CarolineCaroline Polachek.Polachek new “Does You Inspire You.” Their complex, revamped tunes That’s essentially what we did,” says singer and guitarist Aaron won’t be the only things on show: unsurprisingly, the bandmates’ m Pfenning. They were also able to add two tracks, “Dixie Gypsy” to New York University, switching her major from music and styles are as edgy as their moody riffs. Polachek, who favors

o and “Le Flying Saucer Hat.” biology to studio art, an academic shift to which she credits Yohji Yamamoto’s Y-3 line and Ann Demeulemeester, is “kind of Kyl a Esquina photos by “Most bands have to live forever with the record they made Chairlift’s unique sound. obsessed with outfits that are Goth-letic.” (Translation: clothes L

and we were given the opportunity to go back into the mix,” said “I’m so glad I didn’t study music because I think all those that are funereal, but made of synthetic athletic materials.) and e

FR Caroline Polachek, who works the synthesizer, in addition to kids come out of school with a very technical idea of what Pfenning often dips into her closet for leggings, loose tops and singing. “We just changed the balance of the whole thing.” making music is about,” says Polachek. “What we do in Chairlift scarves to spruce up his stage ensembles. But Wimberly takes a ndochin I

It is a musical revision in keeping with the Chairlift’s is very intuitive.” more laissez-faire — though no less successful — approach. , e

w members’ own evolution. Polachek, 23, and Pfenning, 25, The twosome found a third member in Patrick Wimberly, 25, “[He] is masculine to the point where he doesn’t even think

met four years ago in an economics class at the University an acquaintance of Polachek’s from Colorado. about fashion,” laughs Polachek. “He just likes to wake up and nouill e

of Colorado and soon after formed an eclectic pop duo act. “He can play almost anything you give him,” notes put on whatever is crumpled up next to his bed. But it’s great.” r G a They moved to Brooklyn together when Polachek transferred Pfenning of Wimberly, who added drums, keyboard and bass — Tara Bonet-Black L Vie