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Fisheries Then: Clams

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Fisheries Then: Clams Downeast Fisheries Trail - Fisheries Then: Clams Home Sites Plan Your Visit Fisheries Now Fisheries Then Education About Home Fisheries Then Fisheries Then: Clams Fisheries Then: Clams http://www.downeastfisheriestrail.org/fisheries-then/clams/[6/24/2013 2:54:16 PM] Downeast Fisheries Trail - Fisheries Then: Clams By Ray Crouch, Catherine Schmitt, and Natalie Springuel Reviewed by Brian Beal and Denis-Marc Nault Clams were an important resource to the Downeast region’s native peoples, whose preference for shellfish is evidenced by the numerous shell heaps, or middens, scattered along the coast, including at Clark’s Point on Machias Bay and around Passamaquoddy and Cobscook bays. These ancient shell piles also provide a record of resource use and abundance over time. The shell mounds contain layers of information, like rings on a tree, that reveal something about Native American diet, migration, and tools used to harvest and process food. Shell midden archaeology suggests that clams became prevalent in the Passamaquoddy diet about 3,000 years ago, when people shifted toward more coastal living (Sanger 1971). These early residents likely roasted the clams over fires, perhaps wrapped in eelgrass (Baird 1882, Sanger 1971). Other important shellfish-gathering locations include Frenchman Bay and Bar Harbor, the Wabanaki name for which means “clam- gathering place.” European settlers found heavy growth of trees on top of shell heaps near Mount Desert Island, suggesting historic use of clams in the region (Williamson 1832). Early native people may have moved to different places to harvest shellfish, and this would have allowed the previously harvested areas to recover. European settlement and commercialization of the clam Massachusetts Colonial Ordinance of 1641-1647 established public rights to coastal resources, granting every household “free fishing and fowling as far as the tide doth ebb and flow.” Maine retained this law when it became a state in 1820, granting rights to residents to take clams for personal and family use and to fishermen for bait. Early European settlers harvested clams primarily for subsistence. Colonial accounts even suggest that clams were a “last resort” food option during this period, eaten only when other food was scarce (Dow and Wallace 1961, Stubbs 1982). Clams first found commercial value as bait in connection with other booming fisheries, such as cod and haddock. Inshore fishermen used fresh shucked clams, and barrels of shucked, salted clams provided the primary bait aboard schooners in the offshore salt-cod fishery of the nineteenth century, until around 1875. Clam harvesters or “clammers” dug into mud exposed by low tide with a four-tined short-handled hoe or fork, or else pulled them by hand, and placed them in a basket known as a “hod” or “roller.” Clammers moved along the shoreline, digging wherever clams were abundant and weather, tide, and harvesting restrictions allowed. Family and friends worked together. In the beginning of the industry, clamming was a winter fishery that provided a welcome source of income for those needing employment during the cold months. In the middle and late nineteenth century, the fresh clam industry became important, first during the Civil War in the form of clams shipped to Boston, fried and sent to troops (Wallace 1984). Later, increasing numbers of tourists created a demand for small, steamed clams in the shell, as clambakes and “shore dinners” became popular (Dow and Wallace 1961). Clams and other shellfish continued to have commercial value thanks to technological innovations in preserving that allowed for long-distance transport by boat and rail (Judge 1914). The first clam cannery in the United States was built in 1878 at Pine Point in Scarborough (Stevenson 1899), with the clams marketed as “Scarboro Beach” brand by Burnham & Morrill. Other canneries periodically turned to clams, especially during the winter months when other resources were scarce, in order to maintain year-round operations. In 1880 the William Underwood Company built a canning plant in Jonesport, where sardines, clams, lobsters and other fishery products were canned. Clams also were canned in Brooklin by the Farnsworth Packing Company (“Pennant” brand), by Sullivan & Friend in South Blue Hill beginning in 1898 (later sold as “King of the Coast” brand by Sylvester company), and by the Cousins Cannery in Brooklin. In 1917, Willard M. Look founded the original East Machias Canning Company on a wharf in Whiting, at the head of Holmes Bay; Harnedy and Harnedy suggest this plant was the first to pack steamed clams in the US, and also report that Willard M. Look turned to the Cutler clam flats to supply his cannery. This is now Looks Seafood and is still in operation as a shellfish dealer/processor. http://www.downeastfisheriestrail.org/fisheries-then/clams/[6/24/2013 2:54:16 PM] Downeast Fisheries Trail - Fisheries Then: Clams Some processors produced extract from soft-shell clams or the juice left over after canning, selling it in pint, quart, and gallon tin cans (Stevenson 1899) or glass bottles (Gould 1997). Clammers often delivered their clams directly to canneries by boat, with dories filled to capacity with one or two clammers’ daily harvest, which was transported to shucking houses adjacent to the canning plants. Increased demand, higher prices, and expanded harvest By the twentieth century, bait and canned clams began to give way to fresh clams, as consumers longed for clam chowder, steamed clams, fried clams, and minced clams. The volume of clams sold in the shell was 25 times greater than the volume sold for bait. This transition was facilitated by refrigeration, the growth of highway systems, and truck transport. The market for canned Maine soft-shell clams also declined because southern canneries began to use “hen” or Atlantic surf clams, although canning remained important in Hancock and Washington counties through the 1960s. The invention of the deep fat “fryolater” in the 1930s increased restaurant demand for fresh clam meats. Most Maine clams went to two markets: the smaller clams were sold as “steamers” and the larger clams shucked for fried clams (Ellis and Waterman 1998). Richard M. Dorson, reporting on Maine folklore during the New Deal era, noted that old men and boys of Jonesport “go clamming with the tides, and sell clams for cash to waiting trucks. At home they shuck clams with the housewives, knit ‘heads’ for lobster traps, and mend twine.” Production of soft-shell clams reached an all-time peak in 1946, when close to ten million pounds were harvested (DMR 1978). Expanded Maine shucking facilities, decreased labor force during the war (and consequent increased clam populations), and then a strong workforce following World War II all were considerable factors in this increase (Dow and Wallace 1961, Nault 2012). Many World War II veterans dug clams until they could find other work, or clammed in spring and summer, then picked blueberries and potatoes, went deer hunting in November, and cut trees in the winter. The rapid increase in harvest can also be seen in legislation reducing the minimum harvest size, and consistently high seasonal prices that encouraged clammers to dig at a larger scale and more continuously year round (Dow and Wallace 1961, Wallace 1984). John Faulkingham of Beals Island remembered digging clams when he was in high school: “I can remember digging one morning, cause’ I lived with my grandmother then and I left when it was just growing daylight, on a low drain tide. I think I dug three bushel that morning and I think I got… I was thinking three dollars a bushel, and away I went to school. I made nine dollars out of the three bushel and I got them down here… Tide was way down, and I saw this place, and I started digging and when you rolled em’ over it was good, good clammin’” (Jonesport-Beals 2003). Clam populations began to decrease drastically in the 1950s, due mostly to a new predator: the green crab, an invasive species from Europe. In addition, pollution from various sources caused more and more flats to be closed to harvesting. The first pollution closure occurred in the 1930s in southern Maine. By 1960, nearly 16 percent of all coastal flats had to be closed due to wastewater pollution; by the late 1970s, pollution closures had expanded to nearly 44,000 acres, or 20 percent, of Maine’s productive clam flats (Dow and Wallace 1961). The 1970s also began a period of increasing outbreaks of “red tide.” These are population explosions of dinoflagellates in the genus Alexandrium. Dinoflagellates are a kind of single-celled phytoplankton that is filtered from the water by shellfish and contains a toxin that accumulates in shellfish tissues and causes paralytic shellfish poisoning when the clams are consumed by humans (either cooked or raw). Chronic outbreaks have continued since 1974, when Maine established a statewide program to monitor shellfish poisoning. Researchers have found the highest concentrations of Alexandrium in waters off the Downeast coast, in the Bay of Fundy, and eastward to Nova Scotia, perhaps related to increased nutrient levels (Townsend 2001). Through the ’60s and ’70s, clam prices continued to increase, attracting large numbers of harvesters. From 1968 to 1973, the number of licenses issued by the state increased from around 2,000 to 6,000. The majority of clams came from Washington and Hancock counties. In 1977 and http://www.downeastfisheriestrail.org/fisheries-then/clams/[6/24/2013 2:54:16 PM] Downeast Fisheries Trail - Fisheries Then: Clams again in 1982, approximately 250,000 bushels of clams were harvested from the flats in Washington County (DMR landings data). “During this period, harvesters could earn a good living digging clams. A hard-working clammer could enjoy the independence of self-employment and also earn a yearly income equal to that of other fisheries, with much less capital investment.
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