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FEBRUARY 2021 WWW.WHEREMILAN.COM DISCOVER & ENJOY THE heart of the city Let’s start from the and all the famous attractions in Milan

米兰旅行免费指南

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SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS DISCOVER MORE DISCOVER DISCOVER MORE Milan February 2021

Dear friends and readers, the tourism sector is Where tips in great difficulties all over the world. We must therefore thank 20 SHOPPING you who are reading Fashion & Design us now because you In love Pineider historic are nonetheless the hope of recovery as the brand has recently world slowly overcomes opened its flagship the pandemic. store in the central We Italians have via Manzoni. experienced all manner with of crises and we have 32 TASTING always overcome Food & Wine them by trying not Discover the Mi View to lose that smile of Restaurant in the welcome that we once Portello district, ENJOY again give you today. ISSABLE ?NM IT offering a breathtaking A U L Whether you are our E I H A T N view and a refined guest due to work, to E X

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have come upon these C & Enjoy E words via the Internet, S 40 LEISURE the word is always Entertainment & Tours “benvenuto, welcome”, Where® invites you to a either today or in a few Live your dream and get your experience in a click tour discovering the months. beauties of Lake Como Andrea Jarach in an electric car. Where® Publisher 42 ITINERARIES www.welcometoitalia.com Landmarks & Museums MILAN CITY GUIDE ® ’s Last Supper has FEBRUARY 2021 WWW.WHEREMILAN.COM become “for everyone” DISCOVER & ENJOY THE heart of the city thanks to new Let’s start from the Castello Sforzesco and all the famous attractions in Milan Contents multimedia supports. 44 ESSENTIALS Maps & Info 6 TOP IN TOWN 22 STROLLING Information and tips 米兰旅行免费指南 Discover the city, starting THROUGH MILAN

扫码使用体验 米兰小程序 to get around the city SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS from its main attractions and Milan has always something new and to experience COVER IMAGE: several not to be missed districts. to reveal, including key shopping the best that Milan Castello Sforzesco. See page 8. © Nattee Chalermtiragool/ streets, fabulous hideaways in the has to offer. Shutterstock.com 8 LANDMARKS city and sought-after products. Where® brings you several

V IA L E C A M B I A N unmissable sites in a favourite 30 FASHION AND I www.wheremilan.com sightseeing tour for visitors DESIGN OUTLETS » MAP PAGE 46-47 from all over the world. Don’t miss a trip to the city’s Isola www.magzter.com Centrale outlying fashion outlets, just Chinatown & Porta Buenos Digital magazine store San Siro Paolo Sarpi Nuova Aires www.pressreader.com a few kilometres from Milan. Lambrate 16 DISCOVER CityLife Digital magazines Sempione Porta AND ENJOY & Castello issuu.com/where-italia Brera Venezia After a long season of closure, Fashion Digital magazines 36 WHEN WINE IS Quad

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I Follow us on Twitter get the opportunity to return ALL ABOUT THE LABEL V San Babila Belfiore Duomo @WhereMilan 5 Giornate to museums, symbolic places How to “dress” a bottle suitably, Sant'Ambrogio 5 Vie Università Like us on of the country's culture. reflecting its content and origin... degli Studi facebook.com/WhereMilan Porta and translating the whole thing Romana Follow us on Instagram Tortona Lodi CITY GUIDE @where_milan into an artistic expression. www.whereitalia.com SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS

F F O K A L MA VIA YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936® HIGHLIGHTS OF THE MONTH DISCOVER MORE ® SCALO MILANO whereMAGAZINE Milan Located just 15 minutes from Milan, www.wheremilan.com Scalo Milano boasts over 150 stores of PROEDI MEDIA - WHERE fashion and design brands, with year-round Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. discounts of up to 70%. Design takes T: +39 02 25063100 rd th [email protected] centre stage with more than 20 stores 03 - 06 June 2021 www.wheremilan.com carrying homeware, textiles and furnishing PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF accessories by big-name brands. The food Andrea Jarach court features more than 14 restaurants to The Milanese week entirely dedicated [email protected] Recommended by satisfy all tastes.www.scalomilano.it MANAGING EDITOR to the jewelry world Alessandra Finzi

[email protected] MILANO LOVES YOU CONTRIBUTORS www.milanojewelryweek.com Carey Bernitz, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana di Maio, Cornelia G. Hassmüller, Joy Lacanlale, OREFICI 11 Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, NEW Chiara Zaccarelli Timberland, The North Face and OPENING Napapijri, together for the first time, has ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Proedi Media, created an innovative space that naturally Milano Panoramica, Shutterstock moves between physical and virtual: CARTOGRAPHY a new multibrand concept store on 3 City Map: © Proedi Comunicazione 2021 levels offering a unique retail experience. Metro Map and Fast Trains Network Map Discover a revolutionary shopping Dmitry Goloub © Proedi Comunicazione 2021, Mario Camerini experience, hyper-digital and omnichannel oriented. www.orefici11.com COO Pierfrancesco Coreno [email protected]

MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Daniele Misrachi, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni RINASCENTE [email protected] A spot destination for the best brands ADMINISTRATION in fashion, luxury accessories, jewellery, Katia Greto [email protected] beauty, home&design collections. The Design Supermarket in the basement PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT MANAGER boasts classic must haves and new cults. Paola Grilli Then take a privileged look at the Duomo [email protected] spires from the Food Hall on 7th Floor and HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER explore gourmet foods at the Food Market. Marta Mailhac www.rinascente.it [email protected]

CUSTOMER SERVICES Cristina Garbini [email protected]

REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 453, 19 JULY 2010 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N. 2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH UNIQLO PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) Japanese giant Uniqlo’s first shop in

Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright Italy is based in Piazza : the credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose three-level megastore houses the entire names will be published in the next issue. range of products that have made Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any Uniqlo a global icon of ‘smart fashion’, consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. with apparel collections for men and women, including shirts, blouses, coats, EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS WHERE MILAN È DISTRIBUITO NEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI MILANO, jeans and denim created with a focus on CON 20.100 CAMERE WHERE MILAN IS AVAILABLE IN MILAN'S MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS, sustainability. www.uniqlo.com FOR THE GUESTS OF THE 20,100 ROOMS AVAILABLE www.wheremilan.com/distribution Under the Patronage of Where® magazine and the where® logo are registered MVP trademarks of Morris Morris Visitor Publications Visitor Publications. MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS >> To check the opening hours of museums, restaurants, MVP EXECUTIVE stores and outlets stay tuned on www.wheremilan.com CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III

PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV Kristína Opálková by želé jewellery_photographed Project by Prodes Italia | www.prodesitalia.com

4 WHERE MILAN I FEBRUARY 2021 [ UNMISSABLE]

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DUOMO 1 and libraries. Its park is a favourite with old one of the most important cultural centres in BRERA DISTRICT 8 ago to ferry people and merchandise to districts. The heart of the area is the large Among one of the most important Gothic and young alike. Map E4 the city, hosting exhibitions of international This is an artsy neighbourhood which really Milan. This network was perfected in 1457 by raised square dedicated to architect and buildings in the world, the church constructed renown. Near the Duomo, it’s the perfect comes to life at night. The Pinacoteca di Leonardo da Vinci. Today, the area is bursting designer Gae Aulenti. Just a little further over a period of 450 years is the symbol of CENACOLO VINCIANO 4 place to escape the crowds of the Duomo’s Brera is one of the most important museums with trendy dining and nightlife spots. on you will encounter the Bosco Verticale Milan. To experience the Duomo at its most One of the most famous attractions in the square. Map F5 in Milan. Its permanent collections offer a Map E6 with the new Biblioteca degli Alberi. majestic you must ascend to the roof. Map F4 world, “The Last Supper” by Leonardo da wealth of exceptionally good Italian and Map S2 Vinci is a 15th century large mural painting PIAZZA SCALA 6 foreign masterpieces. Map F3 SAN SIRO STADIUM 11 GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II 2 representing the scene of the last supper The perfect location for the Gallerie d’Italia With a capacity of 80,000 seats, it is the TRIENNALE MILANO 14 Sometimes known as “the living-room of the of Jesus narrated in the Gospel. This fragile Museum and the opera house Teatro alla Scala. AMBROSIANA 9 largest stadium in Italy and the 4th in Since 1923 this is an international institution Milanese”, this elegant, four-storey arcade, masterpiece was painted by Leonardo using In the center of the square is the monument The Picture Gallery contains several exquisite Europe. Off Map which organises exhibitions and events about housing luxury cafés and famous designer a technique that was chemically imperfect dedicated to Leonardo da Vinci. Map F4 works of art from the 15th through 17th arts, designs, architecture, fashion, cinema, shops, is covered by a glass barrel vault and a and by the early 16th century it has started centuries. The Biblioteca Federiciana has on SANT’AMBROGIO 12 photography and theatre. Map D3 beautiful glass cupola. Map F4 to flake and decay, resulting in numerous MONTENAPOLEONE DISTRICT 7 show Leonardo’s Codex Atlanticus. One of the most ancient churches in Milan, it 15 restorations. Map D4 Milan is known as one of the the Pinacoteca is exhibiting the preparatory was built in 379-386 A.D., in an area where CIMITERO MONUMENTALE CASTELLO SFORZESCO 3 shopping capitals of the world and via Cartoon for The ‘School of Athens’, one of the martyrs had been buried. Map E5 A real outdoor museum catering, on the one The ancient seat of the ruling Visconti, it was PALAZZO REALE 5 Montenapoleone, together with the Golden best-known paintings by Raphael. Map F5 hand to the whims of the elite of Milan’s later rebuilt by Francesco Sforza and is now Formerly the residence of all those who Quad, is entirely given over to luxury PORTA NUOVA DISTRICT 13 society, and on the other to works of art simply known by the Milanese as “Il Castello”. governed Milan, from Napoleon to the Royal shopping. Here the most important fashion NAVIGLI 10 A vibrant, futuristic district overlooking two by famous sculptors of various eras. It houses a number of interesting museums House of Savoy, the Royal Palace is currently designers offer their creations. Map F4-G4 The Navigli are artificial canals built 800 years neighbourhoods: the Garibaldi and Isola Map E1

6 WHERE MILAN I FEBRUARY 2021 www.wheremilan.com 7 WHERE NOW | LANDMARK

− After crossing the threshold of its 18th century façade in Candoglia marble, the interior of the Cathedral is revealed in all its majesty. One of the THE DUOMO'S most important Gothic buildings in the world, the church, constructed over a period of 450 years (begun 1386), is the symbol of Milan. Built in the shape of a Latin cross, the cathedral is divided by OVERLOOKING THE CITY TERRACES soaring pillars into five naves, the largest of which measures 45 metres in height. Its inside columns measure 3 and a half metres in diameter. − The interior boasts an apse with a large rose window, stained glass windows decorated with episodes from the Bible, chapels and high marble columns with capitals featuring statues of saints. − To experience the Duomo at its most majestic you must ascend to the roof (either by elevator or by steps) where you will be surrounded by an outburst of pinnacles, turrets and marble statuary and, naturally, the city’s famed golden “Madonnina”. Here you can wander among 135 spires and 3,400 statues. − Guided tours for small groups help visitors learn about the secrets behind the Duomo’s construction. The tour starts from the back of the choir which leads to the Crypt housing the tomb of San Carlo Borromeo, and then moves on to the Archaeological Area where you’ll find the remains of the Battistero di San Giovanni alle Fonti, dating back to 397 A.D. This is where Sant’Ambrogio christened St. Augustine. Next is the old Basilica of Santa Tecla (4th century). − Before accessing the Cathedral and its treasures, visit the nearby Museo del Duomo, located inside Palazzo Reale. The museum houses more than 150 masterpieces from the 15th century to the present time, including statues, architectural models, plaster casts, terracottas and paintings. − If you’re on a tight schedule but want to learn more about the secrets of the Duomo, you can take advantage of the new Duomo Milano App for smartphones, featuring images and content in 9 languages including Italian, English, French, German, Spanish, Russian, Chinese, Japanese and Portuguese.

www.duomomilano.it

8 WHERE MILAN I FEBRUARY 2021 www.wheremilan.com 9 WHERE NOW | LANDMARK CASTELLO

SFORZESCOTHE FORTRESS OF MILAN

− The Sforza Castle is the place where knows how many conversations on art, completely demolished on more than of the large gardens behind the castle. − One of the most delightful spaces in the plaques and coats of arms of the Sforza Leonardo da Vinci spent his golden years mathematics, and nature. one occasion. If you have time to spare, we suggest a museum is the Ducal Court, home to the family. Traces of the artist’s drawings of roots as an artist. As you explore its magnificent walk along the battlements that run the dukes of the Sforza family since 1466. Especially burrowing into the rocks are still visible on Construction of this imposing, military- Fortunately, at the end of the 19th fifteenth-century rooms, you’ll note that his − − length of the walls, offering a wealth of impressive features of the Court include the one of the walls. like, square building which measures some century, thanks to the architect Luca genius remains very much alive here. marvelous views. loggia, the Elephant Portico, the Ducal 200 meters on each side began in 1450. Beltrami, the Sforza Castle was completely Lastly, among the ancient manuscripts Chapel and, above all, the marvelous frescoes − It was here that he portrayed figures from The Castle features a moat, three courtyards restored to its former glory, with the The finest art collections belonging to of the Trivulziana Library, you’ll have the − − painted in the Sala delle Asse, the most thrilling the court in works such as the Portrait of a and four imposing towers at the corners. renovation of the surviving parts and the the City of Milan are on display here in the chance to admire the Codex Trivulzianus, of the historical settings in the Castle. Musician, Lady with an Ermine and La Belle reconstruction of those missing, so visitors Castle, where you can admire a splendid a priceless notebook featuring notes and Unfortunately, following the fall Ferronière; he frescoed the magical Sala delle − today can explore a magnificent complex array of furnishings, musical instruments, Leonardo da Vinci executed the frescoes drawings by Leonardo. of the Sforza duchy at the end of the − Asse, organized banquets and performances, replete with art, history and culture. tapestries, ceramics, ancient weapons, coins, in the Sala delle Asse by order of Ludovico il >> Castello Sforzesco. Piazza Castello. 15th century, the Castle fell into decline designed extensions to the Castle (which and above all, paintings and sculptures, Moro, transforming the room to appear like a www.milanocastello.it under the foreign rulers of the city, who You can visit the museum which is were never built), presented inventions − including the world-famous Rondanini Pietà pergola. He painted sixteen mulberry trees turned it into nothing more than common organized into several different sections, or worthy of his genius and took part in who by Michelangelo. intertwined with knotted ropes, celebratory BY STEFANO ZUFFI (Art Historian) military barracks. It even risked being simply enjoy a stroll through the courtyards

10 WHERE MILAN I FEBRUARY 2021 www.wheremilan.com 11 LANDMARK | INSIDE

− Magnificent Palazzo di Brera is clearly project for the redevelopment of Brera, Brera is one of Milan’s fabled places.” the artistic district’s centre of gravity. James Bradburne, the then ‘newly’ The grandiose complex, which includes Its majestic brick and stonework have appointed director of the , − the Pinacoteca and the National Braidense changed little since the 17th-18th century, announced that he wanted “to put Brera back Library, but also an important Academy when it housed a Jesuit college. The stately into the heart of the city, and visitors back of Fine Arts, a media library, a charming entrance portal with its columns is the work at the heart of the museum” because “Brera Botanical Garden and an Astronomical of , the architect who is more than just an old palace, and more Observatory, has once again begun designed Teatro alla Scala and Palazzo Reale. than just the site of one of the country’s most to attract a diverse audience, including important collections of art. Brera includes Instituted as a collection of paintings to youngsters, elderly people, families and − the city’s oldest botanical garden, created by guide the development of students at the international visitors, attracted by its the Jesuits to grow medicinal plants. Brera is Brera Academy of Fine Arts, the Pinacoteca increasingly wide offer of services, as the THE GREAT home to the city’s oldest observatory, which di Brera was opened to the public in “Caffè Fernanda”, designed as an integral used to determine precise noon for the city 1809, during the Napoleonic era. It gained part of the museum, and “Bottega Brera”, before the introduction of time zones in 1884. international stature in the space of just a the museum shop and bookstore, accessible It is home to the country’s most important few years and went on to more add galleries directly from the courtyard of honour of the BRERA art academy, an institute for science and A CENTRE OF GRAVITY FOR MILAN and new works. Palazzo di Brera. literature and the magnificent library − In January 2016, when presenting his founded by Maria Theresa in 1786. www.pinacotecabrera.org WHERE NOW | LANDMARK

ANPORTA UPWARD SPIRALING NUOVA CITY

− Porta Nuova is a sprawling the Torre Solaria – the area, the result of a project highest residential skyscraper of urban and architectural in Italy-, the Torre Diamante redevelopment involving the and the green complex of the area that leads from the Porta Bosco Verticale featuring Garibaldi railway station to hanging gardens designed Piazza della Repubblica, up to by Stefano Boeri. Palazzo Lombardia. − The large public − In 2005, an architectural park in the middle of the project curated by American neighbourhood, known as real estate developer Hines the BAM Biblioteca degli focused on transforming the Alberi, extending over an area into a technological area of 90,000 sq.m., was hub comprising more than designed to provide a vast twenty buildings including number of interconnecting skyscrapers, offices, cultural pedestrian paths and to create centres and urban residences. a real botanical library. The park features over 450 trees Several of Milan and Italy’s − and 90,000 different plant highest and most innovative species, plus recreational skyscrapers, including the areas, themed circular forests, futuristic CityLife complex teaching paths and pedestrian (visible in the background), and bike paths. In summer, are located in the Porta Nuova the park is also used to host district. Among these, the outdoor concerts and events. Torre UniCredit –housed in the vibrant Piazza Gae Aulenti -, www.porta-nuova.com

www.wheremilan.com 15 WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO Find the next year calendar Dante 2021 2021 EVENTS IN ITALY on www.wheremilan.com Celebrating Dante Alighieri, the father of the Italian language also means celebrating the symbol that tells of Italy to the world, of its humanism and its identity made of UNTIL 21 FEBRUARY beauty and warm hospitality. ▼ AN IMMERSIVE EXPLORATION To commemorate the 700th anniversary BY CHEN ZHEN of his death, a full calendar of initiatives DISCOVER “Short-circuits” is conceived as an immersive exploration has been created involving the three cities within the complex artistic research of Chen Zhen associated with Dante (Ravenna, Verona and (Shanghai, 1955—Paris, 2000), bringing together for the Florence) in the coming months, which will first time some of the artist’s most significant works PermanentAND and temporary ENJOY exhibitions in Milan are gradually continue until Sunday 12 September 2021. from 1991 to 2000 in the Navate and Cubo spaces of On that date, Maestro Riccardo Muti will Pirelli HangarBicocca. He brought together everyday returning to welcome visitors after a long season of closure: climb onto the podium for a concert in Piazza objects such as beds, chairs, and tables, assembling them an opportunity to return to museums, symbolic places San Francesco in Ravenna, a performance in compositions that took the items away from their that will also be repeated in Florence and of the country's culture. original functions and into a metaphorical dimension. Verona. The programme of events will reach Chen Zhen’s art reflects his wish to find a visual synthesis its culmination with the inauguration of the between Eastern and Western thought. FEBRUARY AUGUST Museum of the Italian Language at Santa Chen Zhen. Short-circuits 6-16/2 | Venice | Carnevale di Venezia. 16/8 | Siena | Palio dell’Assunta. Maria Novella (Florence). Pirelli HangarBicocca. Via Chiese, 2. T: 02 66111573. www.carnevale.venezia.it www.ilpalio.org pirellihangarbicocca.org 7-21/2 | Cortina d’Ampezzo (Veneto) | Alpine End of August | Salento area (Puglia) | Poet, man of letters, politician, philosopher World Ski Championships. www.cortina2021.com La Notte della Taranta. and theologian, Dante Alighieri (Florence 23/2-1/3 | Milan | Milano Moda Donna. www.lanottedellataranta.it 1265-Ravenna 1321) is a pillar of European www.milanomodadonna.it and world literature and represents SEPTEMBER an entire culture. His “Divine Comedy”, MARCH 1-11/9 | Venice | International Exhibition which for centuries has been considered End of March | Several locations | of Cinematographic Art. the greatest work written in the Italian Spring Days FAI. www.giornatefai.it www.labiennale.org 26-30 /3| Merano (Trentino-Alto Adige) | 1-27/9 | Milan | Milano Moda Donna. language and one of the masterpieces of Merano Wine Festival. www.meranwinefestival.com www.cameramoda.it world literature, describes a journey into the 4-12/9 | Venice | The Venice Glass Week. afterlife, witnessing first-hand the dramas and APRIL www.theveniceglassweek.com suffering of the damned, the punishments Mid-April | Milan | Milano Art Week + Miart. 5-10/9 | Milan | Salone del Mobile. to which they are subjected and the glories milanoartweek.comune.milano.it Milano www.salonemilano.it and they have earned. A journey into history and Milano Design Week. www.milanodesignweek.org mankind, filled with emotions, hopes and UNTIL 2 MAY MAY 12/9 | Monza (Milan) | Formula 1. eternal feelings. 8-30/5 | Several locations in Italy | Italian Grand Prix. www.formula1.com ▲ DEDICATED TO TIEPOLO Giro d’Italia (104th edition). www.giroditalia.it 16-21/9 | Genoa | International Boat Show The main sites in Florence that will host the On the occasion of the 250th anniversary of the death of the great 9-11/5 | Milan | BIT Milano (61st edition). www.salonenautico.com 18th-century Venetian painter Giambattista Tiepolo, around 70 works by at Fieramilanocity. bit.fieramilano.it 17-19/9 | Milan | MIART. www.miart.it events will include the Uffizi Galleries, the him and by important artists of the time retrace his artistic career through 3-16/5 | Rome | Tennis. Internazionali 18/9-9/10 | Viareggio (Tuscany) | theatre of the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, the his commissions in the main cities where he was a leading figure: Venice, BNL d’Italia. www.internazionalibnlditalia.com Carnevale di Viareggio. University of Florence, the Accademia della Milan, Dresden and Madrid. The masterpieces come from national and 12-15/5 | Brescia-Rome-Brescia | viareggio.ilcarnevale.com Crusca, the Galileo Museum, the Fondazione international collections, some of which have been restored for the occasion. Mille Miglia 2018 (95th edition). www.1000miglia.it 19/9 | Rome | Acea Run Rome The Marathon. Franco Zeffirelli, the Bargello and the Casa di 13-17/5 | Turin | International Bookfair www.runromethemarathon.com Dante Museum. Tiepolo. Venezia, Milano, l’Europa (33rd edition). www.salonelibro.it 21-27/9 | Milan | Milano Moda Donna. Gallerie d’Italia-Piazza Scala PINACOTECA DI BRERA 22/5-21/11 | Venice | Biennale www.cameramoda.it . Infoline 800 167619. One of the most famous painting Architettura 2021. www.labiennale.org 30/5 | Mugello (Tuscany) | Moto GP. OCTOBER www.gallerieditalia.com collections in Italy, the Pinacoteca Gran Premio d’Italia. www.motogp.com 9/10– 5/12 | Alba (Piedmont) | di Brera also reopened its doors this International Alba White Truffle Fair. season. Specialising in Venetian and JUNE www.fieradeltartufo.org Lombard painting, its exhibitions range 3-6/6 | Milan | Milano Jewelry Week. 10/10 | Trieste | Barcolana. www.barcolana.it from prehistoric to contemporary art, www.milanojewelryweek.com 15-24/10 | | Eurochocolate. with masterpieces by 20th-century 18-22/6 | Milan | Milano Moda Uomo. www.eurochocolate.com artists. The Pinacoteca has recently www.milanomodauomo.it launched a new initiative: BreraPlus+, 20-23/6 | Verona | Vinitaly (54th edition). NOVEMBER a new online platform that enriches www.vinitaly.com Mid-November | Milan | the experience of the gallery with BookCity Milano. bookcitymilano.it JULY and Music Week. www.milanomusicweek.it multimedia content (breraplus.org). 9-18/7 | Perugia | Umbria Jazz. 21/11 | Venice | Festa della Salute. This image by press photographer Massimo Pinacoteca di Brera www.umbriajazz.it venice.whereitalia.com Sestini shows a view of Piazza Santa Croce Via Brera, 28. pinacotecabrera.org 2/7 | Siena | Palio. www.ilpalio.org in Florence with the statue of Dante in the Compulsory bookings: 19/6-4/9 | Verona | Arena di Verona DECEMBER foreground. Dante’s empty tomb (cenotaph) www.brerabooking.org 98th Opera Festival. www.arena.it 7/12| Milan | Teatro alla Scala – 17/7 | Venice | Festa del Redentore. Opening of the Opera Season. is held in the Basilica of Santa Croce but he is venice.whereitalia.com www.teatroallascala.org actually buried in Ravenna.

16 WHERE MILAN I FEBRUARY 2021 www.wheremilan.com 17 [ WELCOME TO ITALIA ] Dream experiences

Whether it’s discovering the beauties of the city or tasting THIS MONTH IN ITALY a local specialty, Where® brings you several unmissable LIVE LASAGNE COOKING experiences. Check our insider tips to take part of special CLASS WITH ITALIAN CHEF AT HOME cooking classes online or to help you plan your book them Gabriele, well-famous chef, will teach you how on www.welcometoitalia.com to prepare a delicious Italian Lasagna with Bolognese sauce directly at your home.

ONLINE PREPARE THE CLICK & BUY ONLINE ORIGINAL MILAN STYLE RISOTTO Enjoy the cooking lesson comfortably from your home. Let’s take the ingredients and follows your personal chef Gabriele: he will help you step by step during the whole experience.

CLICK & BUY

PRIVATE LAST HOW TO MAKE THE ITALIAN SUPPER EXPERIENCE STYLE BRUSCHETTA Your guide will take you on a journey The expert chef Gabriele, from its farmhouse through the discovery of one of the in the heart of Tuscany, will be your personal most important artworks in history. guide during the preparation of the Get to know Leonardo and his mind Bruschetta, the famous Italian starter, as the in a unique way with the insight that tradition wants. only a guide can provide. CLICK & BUY ONLINE CLICK & BUY

VIP DUOMO CATHEDRAL PRIVATE EXPERIENCE If you are looking for the most personable way of enjoying our Duomo this is what we are here to provide. See the inside, the rooftop using the lift and do not waste your time in line for a ticket, you will skip the line and have a great experience! ONLINE TIRAMISÙ COOKING CLASS WITH ITALIAN CHEF CLICK & BUY In a step-by step instructional course, Gabriele will teach you the secrets to prepare a yummy Tiramisu! An engaging online cooking class, Live your dream and get PRIVATE MILAN where you can interact directly with the chef your experience in a click EXPERIENCE as if you were in his kitchen! If you have specific interests ranging from art history to fashion, photography or CLICK & BUY ONLINE food, we will be happy to pair you with the guide that best suits your needs: a local guide takes you “behind the scenes” with the insight only a local can provide. Welcome to Italia network CLICK & BUY promotes the Italian tourist heritage, combining selected contents with high-quality experiences. www.welcometoitalia.com 18 WHERE MILAN I FEBRUARY 2021 FASHION & DESIGN

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Luigi Verga Orologi ● ● Gobbi 1842

Pineider, timeless elegance ● Rocca 1794

The historic Florentine brand, and leather, test your abilities in calligraphy >> Pineider 1774 www.pineider.com synonymous with exclusiveness courses, choose your own ink or create a bespoke, absolutely unique product together with the Via Manzoni, 12. T: 02 36589137. Map F4 ● Orologeria and craftsmanship in paper, Pineider master craftsmen. All this in the lounge Luigi Verga leather goods and articles for area known as “The Writers’ Club” overlooking writing, has recently opened the courtyard of the Poldi Pezzoli Museum. Proximity to Milanese cultural sites is one of the a flagship store in the very Florentine brand’s prerequisites, as it identifies ● Ronchi central Via Manzoni. its DNA in culture. From this perspective, the point-of-sale proposes to organise and promote microevents devoted to arts and passions such efined vintage atmospheres pervade as music, literature, photography and the graphic the 300 square metres of surface area arts, while always respecting the regulations and Illustration copyright © 2021. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this map, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. No part of this map may be reproduced without the permission of the publishers. This map is originally designed and produced by Mario Camerini by map is originally designed and produced This without the permission of publishers. part No be reproduced of this map may thereof. or omissions the consequences errors for the publishers cannot responsibility accept check the accuracy to in this map, every Whilst care has been taken of the information reserved. © 2021. All rights copyright Illustration Rof the new Pineider flagship store, social responsibility. with its sophisticated types of paper, precious The design of the space has been entrusted to pens and leather goods, both historic and the studio Paolo Badesco & Partners, which has Official Retailers in Milan contemporary. The ambition is to bring the realised an exclusive concept for the Florentine products closer to the Pineider experience: in brand in a harmonious balance between past and ◗ Pisa Orologeria - Rolex Boutique ◗ Orologeria Luigi Verga ◗ Rocca 1794 Via Montenapoleone, 24 Via G. Mazzini (Piazza Duomo) Piazza Duomo, 25. T: 02 8057447 the former historic location of the first Feltrinelli present. The opening in Milan is now in addition T: 02 76317726 T: 02 8056521 Milano Malpensa Airport-Terminal 1 bookshop, in fact, a space has been designed to the single-brand shops in Florence and Rome, T: 02 74867578 ◗ Gobbi 1842 ◗ Luigi Verga Orologi that is not simply a shop, but rather a place while the prospects of also developing digital Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15 Corso Vercelli, 19 ◗ Ronchi where you can experience the craftsmanship solutions allowing a profound link between T: 02 76020536 T: 02 48198656 Via Gonzaga, 5 T: 02 877449 associated with the art of engraving on paper consumer and brand are increasing.

20 WHERE MILAN I SEPTEMBERFEBRUARY 2021 2020 www.wheremilan.com 21 SHOPPING

WINDOW 1 h Strolling DUOMO, THE HEART OF THE CITY SHOPPING Milan’s historic centre is contained within a relatively small area which is now mostly closed to traffic, meaning that it’s easy to explore on through foot. There’s no need to choose between planning a ‘cultural’ itinerary or a ‘shopping’ itinerary because you can combine the two and get the most out of both. In addition to being packed with several of Milan Milan’s most famous attractions, this area is home to myriad shops, including big-name fashion brands, historic ‘botteghe’ and some Milan, famed as one of of the city’s most sought-after cafés, bars and eateries. In the space the shopping capitals of just a few kilometers you’ll find the Duomo, the Galleria, Teatro of the world, has always alla Scala, the Castle, the ancient Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio, as well as sporadic traces of ‘Roman Milan’, the first settlement and the something new to reveal, predecessor of present-day Milan. WINDOW including key shopping In the immediate vicinity, overlooking the various sides of the large 30 min THE GALLERIA, A FASHION SHOPPING streets, the latest trends square surrounding it, you’ll find several of the world’s most exclusive addresses. For the ultimate one-stop shopping experience look VICTIM’S PARADISE from abroad, fabulous no further than the Rinascente flagship store (under the arcades): an Another reference point for upmarket shopping is amazing array of fashion items under just one roof! By walking just a hideaways in the city and the picturesque, iconic and simply spectacular few steps from the Cathedral, in a north-westerly direction, you’ll sought-after products. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, home to the greats reach the Castello Sforzesco, another of the city’s most symbolic of fashion and several high-class restaurants: a monuments. The castle was the resident of the ruling families in unique destination whose upper and lower spaces Milan between the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. Today, it hosts are well worth a visit. After honoring the Milanese several museums and one of the city’s best-loved green spaces. tradition of spinning around three times and firmly WINDOW 1,5 h grinding your heel into the testicles of the bull SHOPPING depicted on the mosaic flooring, you can indulge yourself by purchasing something from one of the CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE fabulous boutiques lining the Galleria. WINDOW & VIA TORINO, TRENDY SHOPPING 2,5 h SHOPPING EDITOR’S TIP | A GLANCE TO THE HISTORY A virtual masterpiece of eclectic architecture, it Piazza Duomo branches off into corso Vittorio was designed by Giuseppe Mengoni between Emanuele II which leads to piazza San Babila, and 1865 and 1867 to celebrate the birth of the the nearby via Torino, which stretches as far as porta Kingdom of Italy. By that time, the Galleria Ticinese (from here you can access the Navigli and represented the greatest application of iron and the recently revamped Darsena). Corso Vittorio glassbased technology to a civilian building. The Emanuele and via Torino are the shopping meccas majesty of its mosaics and the decorations of the most frequently patronized by young, fashion- buildings – now converted into shops, restaurants conscious Milanese, in search of the latest trends. THE LEGENDARY MONTENAPOLEONE and offices – is naturally enhanced by the arching These areas boast loads and loads of shops and Although high-end purchases can be made in any part of the city, glass and cast iron roof (topped with a central it’s easy to get lost among the myriad offers of several urban areas are also entirely given over to the business of glass dome standing at a height of 50 meters) ever-changing, ready-to-wear fashion. luxury shopping. First and foremost, the Quadrilatero della Moda or which, together with its iron structure, was Golden Quad, situated just east of the Piazza della Scala and a short originally manufactured in France. WINDOW distance on foot from the Duomo. This is where all the big designer 2 h names and most luxurious stores in the world cluster. The Quadrilatero CORSO VERCELLI, A CHIC DISTRICT SHOPPING set amidst four of Milan’s most expensive and prestigious shopping streets, namely via Montenapoleone, via Manzoni, and Corso Vercelli is a Milan’s ‘niche’ shopping residential architecture. Here you will come corso Venezia. It is here that the most important fashion designers of street which is less busy and easier to across several trendy shops for all tastes, international repute offer their luxurious creations. It’s a real open-air shop in than the city centre, but is still offering clothing, footwear, home décor shopping mall, where haute couture takes centre stage and a profusion packed to overflowing with small shops just and eateries. of eye-catching window displays will make the eyes of even the most waiting to be discovered in a distinctive What’s more the area is located just a stone’s hardened fashionistas sparkle. Here, in the space of just a few hundred atmosphere that is further enhanced throw from one of Milan’s most important metres, you’ll find everything your heart desires, including boutiques, by the passage of historic trams giving attractions: the Last Supper, Leonardo da museums, restaurants and luxury hotels. If fashion is your thing and this street an almost retrò flavour. This is Vinci’s masterpiece admired each year by you’re interested in learning more about its history, then a visit to Palazzo one of Milan’s most upmarket districts: a millions of visitors, the , Morando (www.costumemodaimmagine.mi.it), the headquarters of the residential area, still inhabited by Milan’s and the are also within museum of costumes, fashion and image, is an absolute must. Discover upper crust, it epitomizes the traditional easy walking distance, and, if you’re feeling the world of fashion and glamour in this unique, magical pedestrian soul of the city and is distinguished by its energetic, you can easily push onwards until precinct (also featuring a number of small side streets dotted with glam air of sophistication, elegance and stunning you reach the Castello Sforzesco. boutiques). Well worth exploring from top to bottom. / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM © BENNY MARTY

22 WHERE MILAN I FEBRUARY 2021 www.wheremilan.com 23 SHOPPING SHOPPING

WINDOW WINDOW 2 h 30 min Salima Thakker NAVIGLI, NICHE SHOPPING SHOPPING PORTA NUOVA, MODERN TIMES SHOPPING

Real Milanese trendsetters, those who would never dream of mingling with Beneath the imposing UniCredit Tower, one of the symbols of the Milanese skyline, the crowds, shop in the Ticinese area and surrounding neighbourhoods. you’ll find the newest and most modern part of Milan, home to the skyscrapers of Here, amongst the columns of San Lorenzo and the Navigli, you’ll find Porta Nuova and Piazza Gae Aulenti (which is dedicated to one of the ‘greats’ of numerous trendy boutiques, niche labels and small vintage shops where, Milanese design), a real jewel of architecture and design with its increasing number if you know how to look, it’s still possible to bag a bargain and find of boutiques. This is really one of Milan’s most contemporary, fashionable districts, showrooms that sell to the public. Together with Brera, the Navigli is one bursting with buzzy bars that cater to the traditional aperitivo ritual, a destination of the most picturesque districts in old Milan. A favourite haunt of the where hip youngsters are always in the limelight. In addition to the latter, the area locals for the city’s cherished aperitivo ritual, the Navigli and the Darsena also contains the Corso Como complex, where you’ll find some of the most famous – the city’s recently restructured old mercantile port – are a mustvisit and fanciest clubs in Milan alongside fashion and art hotspots. If shopping is your stopover for visitors to Milan, who will find themselves seduced by the objective you’ll be spoilt for choice in piazza Gae Aulenti. The piazza hosts numerous artistic atmosphere of its numerous painters’ studios. If you’re interested bookshops, perfumeries and design or clothing shops. WINDOW in discovering the city from a different perspective, treat yourself to a 2 h picturesque cruise on the Navigli (www.milancanalcruises.it). BRERA, THE ARTISTIC SHOPPING EDITOR’S TIP | THE SKYLINE OF THE NEW CITY HEART OF THE CITY From piazza Gae Aulenti, you can enjoy a unique view of the district: just a little further on you will encounter the Bosco Verticale, nominated This centrally located district is named after via the most innovative skyscraper in the world at the 2014 International Brera which, since the 18th century, has housed Highrise Award, the Diamant Tower with all the new towers of the Porta the famous Accademia di Belle Arti. One of the Nuova Business District, Palazzo Lombardia, the Regional liveliest areas in the city, it was formerly populated Government building, and Palazzo Pirelli designed by Gio Ponti. by artists and bohemians and still, today, retains its characteristic atmosphere. Its narrow cobbled Zihan streets host a number of interesting chic antique Yang Studio shops, galleries, cafés, restaurants and bars. If The jewelry this is where you’re headed, make sure to wear world is on show ‘flatties’, these cobbled streets were not originally Milan Jewelry Week is the Milanese designed for heels! The area is expanding rapidly week devoted entirely to the world and its neighbouring streets, including Corso of jewels. Between 3 and 6 June Garibaldi and Corso Como, are home to several 2021, the captivating and diverse © BORIS STROUJKO / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM of the trendiest addresses in the city. In fact, as you calendar will include many events at walk through this historic district, you will be struck various locations in the centre: haute by the almost surreal atmosphere, and a treasure joaillerie workshops, goldsmithery trove of small artists’ workshops, quaint shops , THE LONGEST laboratories, schools, academies selling canvases and paints and antique shops of and art galleries, as well as fashion SHOPPING STREET IN EUROPE this area. Highlights include the masterpieces at boutiques. Thousands of people the Pinacoteca, the historic Biblioteca Nazionale Since opening in 1782, Corso Buenos Aires has been one of the most employed in the sector, journalists and Braidense, the Astronomical Museum, the oldest important commercial thoroughfares in Milan where an increasing number of jewellery lovers from Italy and abroad institute of scientific research in the city, and the ‘maxi boutiques’ have taken up residence. A real shoppers’ paradise, it offers will participate in group and solo shows, Botanical Gardens, an evocative green oasis in the one and a half kilometre of window displays, with shops for all tastes and vernissages, exhibitions by galleries heart of the city. Brera never ceases to amaze and all budgets: sophisticated boutiques, alternated with trendy stores offering and international schools, awards now, in addition to its picturesque artists’ workshops, all types of merchandise and numerous bars for a quick snack. Its sidestreets evenings, workshops and cocktail countless boutiques showcasing rare essences are STREET OF TIME abound in restaurants, many of which are ethnic. A saturdy afternoon parties. Among the main events: the springing up, transforming Brera into a ‘district of favourite with Milanese shoppers of all ages. In Milan, there are many evocative Via Pietro Verri reconfirms itself as the “Artistar Jewels” group exhibition, which Artistic Perfumery’. locations where jewellery collections “Street of Time” and Pisa Orologeria WINDOW will be dedicated to all the artists and 3 h are designed and handcrafted: as the reference point of Italian designers of contemporary jewels, SHOPPING exclusive lines that accompany those high watchmaking, for the Milanese “The Jewelry Hub”, involving selected wearing them on a day-to-day basis, with refined taste as well as for an jewellery brands, who will present their accentuating and highlighting their increasingly international clientele. own creations to potential buyers, and >> INSIDER TIP personalities. “Jewelry Drops”, an exhibition in which Shopping hours are generally from Discover the best spots to buy international artists and designers 9.30am to 7.30pm; less centrally located exquisite “made in Milan” will also display their works virtually. shops still take the traditional lunch craftsmanship, a precious silver or Emerging talents will find space inside break from 12.30pm or 1pm to 3pm or gold jewel, a hand-made diamond the “Talent Show”, where authoritative 4pm. Most shops are closed on Sundays encrusted accessory, or maybe a gift tutors will organize workshops and (except those located in central Milan) for your beloved one. lectures inviting all those who are and on Monday mornings. Make sure to Several of the most prestigious watch curious to find out more about this manufacturers in the world have always check ahead. via Montenapoleone sector. www.milanojewelryweek.com home in Milan. © ANTON_IVANOV / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM © ANTON_IVANOV

24 WHERE MILAN I FEBRUARY 2021 www.wheremilan.com 25 SHOPPING SHOPPING

Outlet & More

Get ready Malpensa for sales! Airport Sale time is an absolute must for shopping addicts: when it’s sale time in Milan the city is Rho Fairgrounds

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DAILY SHOPPING EXPERIENCE Piazza della Book Online scalomilano.it THE MILAN OUTLET THE NEW SHOPPING OUTLET JUST 15 MINUTES FROM HERE scalomilano.it 150 EXCLUSIVE SHOPS OF FASHION AND DESIGN UP TO 70% OFF OUTLET PRICE Book Online objects. To survive this-time fever Repubblica scalomilano.it you need quick reflexes, flat Scalo Milano Outlet & More The nearest Milanese outlet just 15 minutes DAILY SHOPPING EXPERIENCE Book Online scalomilano.it

THE MILAN OUTLET THE NEW SHOPPING OUTLET shoes, a well thought out plan JUST 15 MINUTES FROM HERE 150 EXCLUSIVE SHOPS OF FASHION AND DESIGN UP TO 70% OFF OUTLET PRICE from downtown. Scalo Milano is the ideal Duomo scalomilano.it and our invaluable suggestions. destination for fashion & design lovers, DAILY SHOPPING Porta RomanaEXPERIENCE Linate Book Online scalomilano.it THE MILAN OUTLET with a keen eye for Italian style. More than JUST 15 MINUTES FROM HERE THE NEW SHOPPING OUTLET scalomilano.it 150 EXCLUSIVE SHOPS OF FASHION AND DESIGN UP TO 70% OFF OUTLET PRICE Book Online 15 min scalomilano.itAirport Get a few tips to guarantee that 150 iconic brands such as Cavalli Class, Twinset, Fratelli Rossetti, Testoni, Ferrari. you bag the best bargains. © ALLIANCE IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM A whole area focused on interior design and furniture hosting leading designer showrooms: Alessi, Kartell, Calligaris, Bialetti Milan is the fashion capital of the world. In case the outgoing collection. And it’s important to among them. Join us with our free shuttle you don’t believe this, various surveys conducted bear in mind that discounts are not fixed, but bus (from Repubblica or Porta Romana M3) over the past few years have confirmed that they can range from 5% up to 70% depending and enjoy sales up to 70% off all year round. Locate Triulzi Milan is the number one luxury-shopping on the individual policy of each shop even if >> INSIDER TIP destination: it is not surprising that the whole applied to all kinds of articles, from clothing By the Italian laws, items bought Discover more on scalomilano.it city is alive with shoppers during the eagerly to accessories. on sale can be tried on, as well awaited summer and winter sales. as full-price ones, but they can have stricter rules on returns. WHERE >> While the so-called ‘Quadrilatero While articles coming from new WHEN >> In Italy sale times occur two della Moda’, which includes via Montenapoleone, collections can be returned times a year, according to the different Spring/ via della Spiga, via Manzoni and Corso Venezia, is within 30 days, products Summer and Fall/Winter seasons. Generally, they the place that has the highest average price tags with reduced prices can’t be Tax Free Refund Guide are held after Christmas, January-February (followed by Paris, New York and London) and returned unless flawed. According to the Italian law, non-EU resident travellers may • the goods shall leave the EU territory by the third month document was issued. for winter collections and July-September for the largest concentration of the most prestigious So, if you buy a reduced price be granted VAT relief/refund for goods intended for personal following the date of issue of the invoice, as proved by the 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian summer collections, though the starting dates designer boutiques, new highend shopping dress or accessory, always pay or family use purchased in Italy. This relief is surely an “customs stamp”; retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve change from region to region. Sales generally districts are gradually emerging. A suggestion: attention to the fitting or to advantage for the foreign travellers: in fact, it allows • from 1 September 2018, tax free invoices in Italy must chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” last for 60 days and keep in mind: the earliest don’t limit yourself to the shopping streets the size; if you make a mistake, to save from a minimum of 4% up to a maximum of 22% of be electronically transmitted by the national seller to sign in its window). 7. Tax-Free companies are able to offer you go, the widest choice you will find! in the centre… if you avoid following the maybe you can be given a the selling price of the goods purchased. Here is a short OTELLO information system (Online Tax Refund at Exit: Several guide Italian legislation L L O immediate VAT cash refunds crowds, you’ll be able to take advantage of a voucher, but it’s at the shop according to the to discover ight ane ptimization) and their validation is digitally when the goods the common system of value added tax exclusively for carried out. leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating much wider choice! And if you want to take the owner’s complete discretion WHAT >> First and foremost, remember non-EU resident travellers. • after the digital “customs stamp” is obtained, OTELLO will the passenger from having to return the invoice to the maximum advantage of the sales experience, we to agree. that discounts are only applied to collections send a message to the retailer that all the requirements retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major recommend focusing on fashion outlets (several already on sale at shops and not to new in-store 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and are met and, as a consequence, the retailer will reimburse international airports or main border crossings. Most located out-of- town) that offer additional arrivals. According to the Italian laws, sales services, and is part of the European Union’s value added the amount due or will settle the tax relief. major department stores have Tax Free Refund always refer to seasonal products belonging to discounts on their collections (see page 30). tax system. • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within offices. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. four months after the purchase was made. If the invoice 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the This refund does not cover the services supplied by is stamped by other EU countries, it needs to be brought payment of a small administrative sum which is directly hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. to the shop retailer by the fourth month following that of deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the FASHION HUBS IN MILAN 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: the purchase. traveller. non-EU resident 4. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund CityLife Shopping District Piazza Portello • you are a ; The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be • the goods purchased are intended for personal or shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re- The largest urban shopping centre A small shopping district where a large family use only and are carried in your luggage; territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned in Italy hosts 100 shops and eateries: hypermarket, over 50 shops, bars and • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE companies. fashion, accessories, cosmetics, restaurants overlook small squares and Euro (VAT included); checking in). 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly wellness, home décor and high-tech arcades. The trendiest brands of clothing • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the by customs offices. are the star players of its exclusive and accessories, the best of technology, should include a description of the goods purchased, original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs commercial offer. and sport, home and hobbies. your personal information as well as the details of your office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be Source: https://www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/otello- www.citylifeshoppingdistrict.it www.piazzaportello.com passport or any other equivalent document; returned within four months from the date when the english-version/legislation

26 WHERE MILAN I FEBRUARY 2021 www.wheremilan.com 27 SHOPPING WHERE TIPS ADVERTORIAL

GIOSA MILANO PETTINAROLI

CUSTOM-MADE CROCODILE ACCESSORIES Surrounded by art STATIONERY PRINTS AND MAPS Founded in 1881 and now run galleries and goldsmiths’ workshops, at their atelier in via by the fourth generation, it is considered one of the oldest Ciovasso, Giorgio Santamaria and his son Gioele continue to venues in the city. On entering this unmistakably Milanese write the history of high-end Milanese craftsmanship working shop in via Brera, customers can breathe in the scent of the with exclusive crocodile skins. Giosa offers customers a chance past, immersed in a timeless, old-world atmosphere. Since its to become the designers of their creations, allowing them to inception, the shop has been a reference point for style and choose from a wide range of precious crocodile skins, available elegance in writing paper, business cards, printed documents, desk items, a vast assortment of prints and antique maps and in a remarkable array of colours and finishes. Customers can photo albums in beautifully handcrafted leather according to create their own unique, custom-made accessory inside the time-honoured Italian tradition. atelier’s historic vault under the guidance of expert artisans. www.giosamilano.com www.fpettinaroli.it - Via Brera, 4 Via Ciovasso, 6 - T: 02 86997441. M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza. Map F4 T: 02 86464642-1875. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

VALLI TESSUTI ALTA MODA ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ HAUTE COUTURE FABRICS MADE IN ITALY A reference point HIGH FASHION COSTUME JEWELRY The precious collections in Milan for the best Made in Italy cuts. Located in via Verdi, designed by Angela Caputi are a meld of fashion and art. just steps from Teatro alla Scala, here expert staff will assist Angela Caputi first established her exclusive workshop you in the search for the perfect fabric to make elegant outfits, in Florence, in 1975, where she personally designs all her prêt-à-porter or formal wear. These fabrics are inspired by the collections under the “Angela Caputi Giuggiù” brand name. patterns of the most up-to-date haute couture collections. Valli Renowned throughout the world, her bijoux, made entirely stocks a wide assortment of exquisite fabrics for men (including by hand using synthetic resins, are an authentic expression pinstripes and prince of Wales check by Ermenegildo Zegna of “Made-in-Italy” elegance. Sophisticated, original and Loro Piana) and women (Valentino and Ungaro), as well as creations combined to create unique objects both in terms bolts of cloth to make coats and outerwear, shirts, accessories of colour and shape. A magical blend of contemporary and and bridal gowns. Alipay payment accepted. classical taste. vallitessuti.com www.angelacaputi.com Via G. Verdi, 2 - T: 02 782124. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 Via Madonnina, 11 - T: 02 86461080. M2 Lanza. Map F4

IL SALVAGENTE VIBRAM FASHION OUTLET IN THE HEART OF MILAN Established in HIGH PERFORMANCE FOOTWEAR Milan’s first and unique 1978, Il Salvagente is among Milan’s best-known and longest Vibram® store represents a benchmark for amateurs and established outlets: a comprehensive offering of high end professionals who are looking for products of high quality fashion in the city of fashion. Clothing, accessories and and performance. The store displays the entire range of shoes, for him and for her, at up to 70% off. Vibram FiveFingers® offering customers the possibility of This landmark Milanese outlet is located just a few minutes feeling the ground without giving up on protection, together from the airport of Linate and the Central station and is easily with Vibram Furoshiki and other finished good products, plus accessible from the centre of the city. Enjoy all the perks of a big variety of shoes produced by other brand partners, all city shopping but with far more palatable price tags. characterized by a Vibram® sole.

www.salvagente.com - Via Fratelli Bronzetti, 16. vibram.com - Via Raffaello Sanzio, 6. T: 02 76110328. Map H4 T: 02 36528461. M1 Buonarroti. Map B4

MANZONI24 OTTICA CHIERICHETTI NOBLE FURS, STYLE AND CRAFTSMANSHIP A warm, welcoming HISTORIC WORKSHOP OF PRECIOUS FRAMES Located venue and the perfect place to be inspired, admire and naturally just steps from Porta Romana, it combines the allure try on the various fur designs on display. Luxe collections of of an old-world boutique with the most avant-garde clothing, accessories and homeware for those who appreciate technologies. Since 1914, it has been a reference point for modern style and traditional Italian craftsmanship. Easy-to-wear the Milanese and eyewear aficionados in search of high- garments featuring impeccably tailored lines in which even the quality prescription glasses and sunglasses that reflect noblest furs are adapted to suit a young, contemporary style. their personal tastes. At this “historic workshop”, recently Diverse materials meet and give life to new trends: quilted refurbished with a more modern look, while retaining jackets pair perfectly with fur, fur enhances cashmere and the several of its signature touches, including its beautiful, original wood period furnishings, customer service takes unexpected becomes a fashion item. Shop online available. centre stage. www.condorpelli.it - Via Manzoni, 24 www.chierichetti.it - Corso di Porta Romana, 74. T: 02 76001395. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 T: 02 58314024. M3 Crocetta. Map F6

More info: www.wheremilan.com

28 WHERE MILAN I FEBRUARY 2021 www.wheremilan.com 29 [ DAILY TOURS ] Five reasons why Fashion and design outlets Bialetti MILANESE STYLE ICONS Discover iconic items that are an Just a few kilometres absolute ‘must’ in the everyday lives of from Milan, the nec Milanese locals. Timeless objects like plus ultra for the the quintessential ‘Bialetti Moka’ coffee fashion addicted are maker, ‘Tacco 12’ stiletto heels, the typical Kartell Piquadro backpack for businessmen and the city’s outlying 1. the classic Italian Spritz Cocktail. fashion outlets. Don’t miss a trip Liu Jo Twinset to these unique shopping destinations YOUR FAVOURITE Piquadro BRANDS during sale time! Scalo Milano Outlet & More Get our free “I Visit Card” and enjoy an extra 10% off on the latest collections FIDENZA VILLAGE Its beautiful setting combines all the appeal • WHAT: it hosts 150 fashion and design 2. of your favourite premium One of the 11 Villages of “The Bicester Village of luxury designer brands with the beauties brands, including Cavalli Class, Twinset, brands including Cavalli Shopping Collection” by Value Retail in of the surrounding Piedmont countryside Fratelli Rossetti, A. Testoni, Puma, a Ferrari Class, Kartell, Twinset and Europe and China, the Village offers its guests and the Ligurian Riviera. McArthurGlen also store and 15 showrooms of leading interior Patrizia Pepe. a complete ‘360-degree’ experience and a boasts “Barberino” near Florence, “Castel décor and home furnishing brands (Alessi, new concept in shopping and hospitality. Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” near Naples Kartell, Calligaris...) and discounted products • WHERE: in the heart of the Food Valley and and “Noventa di Piave” close to Venice. from 30% to 70% all year round. Incredible the Land of Verdi, just 60 minutes from Milan. • WHERE: take the A7 Milano-Genova entertainment program through the year Carlo Pazolini • WHAT: 120 boutiques with a selection of motorway and exit Serravalle Scrivia. with concerts, events and exhibitions. Italian and international brands at prices • WHAT: a unique shopping experience with • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: other highlights JUST 15 MINUTES FROM reduced by up to 70% off the recommended 300 of your favourite designer brands for up include accessories, cosmetics and sporting DOWNTOWN MILAN retail price. www.fidenzavillage.com to 30-70% less all year round. goods, 14 restaurants and cafés. Non-EU McArthurGlen.it/Serravalle residents can reclaim any VAT paid on items Scalo Milano Outlet & More is closer FOXTOWN FACTORY STORES purchased here. Open daily: Design and than you think! Avoid Milan’s chaotic A haven of luxury and elegance where 160 VICOLUNGO THE STYLE OUTLETS Fashion: Mon-Fri 11am-8pm and Sat-Sun 3. traffic and enjoy a 15-minute ride stores offer the very best fashion labels Situated just 30 minutes from Milan and the 10am-8pm. Food: Mon-Fri 11am-10pm on a comfortable coach. discounted from 30% to 70% all year round. Malpensa Airport, in the province of Novara, and Sat-Sun 10am-10pm. Get onboard! Our convenient daily • WHERE: in Switzerland, just 50 km from Milan. this is one of the closest outlet to Milan scalomilano.it shuttle connects Scalo Milano • WHAT: 160 exclusive stores, more than 250 and the ideal place to spend an exciting to the city centre throughout the top brands ,1 casino, 7 bars and restaurants, day shopping. day, for a truly carefree shopping an exchange office and various Tax Free • WHERE: take the A4 Milano-Torino motorway experience! refund points. www.foxtown.com and exit at Biandrate Vicolungo. • WHAT: 150 prestigious designer stores FRANCIACORTA VILLAGE offering clothing for the whole family, SCALO MILANO OUTLET & MORE PAYMENTS & TAX-FREE SHOPPING Nestled between Lakes Garda and Iseo, less homeware and beauty products at than an hour from Milan, Franciacorta is not discounted prices up to 70%. Special A shuttle service runs from the centre of International partners like Global Blue and 4. only the home to the region’s famous Docg selection of several of the world’s most Milan to Scalo Milano with 3 daily departures. Planet help you operate the tax refund EXCLUSIVE SERVICES wines but also offers a unique shopping coveted sports brands. Bookable everyday at scalomilano.it process. After noticing a growing interest Discover the new Loyalty programme. Free and experience. www.vicolungo.thestyleoutlets.itTHERE’S NO NEED TO PICK UP YOUR TOURIST CARD >> Departure from Piazza della by international tourists, we decided to digital, with "I Love Card" you get 10% discount, • WHERE: take the A4 Milan-Venice motorway Repubblica by Frigerio Viaggi integrate our payment methods with Alipay many dedicated advantages and every day you and exit at Ospitaletto or the A35 Bre-Be-Mi SCALO MILANO OUTLET & MORE AT THE INFO POINT TRAVEL FARwww.scalomilano.it TO and WeChat Pay, and create a tailor-made can win fantastic gift cards of 10, 30 and 50 €. and exit at the A4 junction. Established in 2016, Scalo Milano Outlet 5. shopping card. In addition, if you are a tourist, with 500€ • WHAT: over 190 stores of Italian and & More is a metropolitan outlet village AND ENJOY A 10%shopping DISCOUNT we offer you a 50€ taxi. voucher for GET CLOSERPiazza della Repubblica AGAIN. 5, Departure international brands for up to 30-70% less (31,000 sq.m.) located just 15 minutes from corner of Via Turati from Scalo Milano a comfortable return. We have many other all year round. downtown Milan. 150 exclusive shops up tofree 70% services o foroutlet your shopping, price. including the www.franciacortavillage.it • WHERE: located in Locate Triulzi YOUR OUTLET IS10.30am SCALO MILANO,12.30am network Wi-Fi, power bank for mobile phones (via Milano, 5), it can be accessed via a daily and children's area. SERRAVALLE DESIGNER OUTLET shuttle bus RESTARTfrom downtown Milan FROM (Piazza HERE.2pm 3.15pm The largest Designer Outlet in Europe, it is della Repubblica, 3 corner of via Turati) and 5pm 7pm located just 50 minutes away from Milan. straight to Scalo Milano in a few minutes. DAILY SHUTTLE BUS FROM P.ZZA REPUBBLICA NEWSSTAND S13 LOCATE DI TRIULZI NEW STOP P.TA ROMANA M3 30 WHERE MILAN I FEBRUARY 2021 E MOLTI ALTRI... TAX FREE scalomilano.it [ WHERE TIPS ] PH © ANDREA CHERCHI Tasting Dining at the top FOOD & WINE

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5 D’O A blend of style, creativity and DINING fabulous flavours set within a tranquilNEW surroundings, on the 10 10 outskirts of Milan. Original dishes in which the qualiity of every ingredient shines through. In 2021: two Michelin stars plus a new Michelin All the flavours of Milan Green Star for gastronomy We’ve rounded up some of the most interesting restaurants in the city: and sustainability.

10 destinations to enjoy Italian and international cuisine. San Pietro all’Olmo (Cornaredo). Check for each operating system for take-away and delivery services. Off Map – www.cucinapop.do

2 3 4 AALTO PECK CITYLIFE MOEBIUS PART OF IYO A delicatessen, a A warm atmosphere It recreates a corner restaurant and a wine and a striking of Japan. Here you and cocktail bar: the aesthetic, where you New gourmet trips... with a view can enjoy a special gastronomic tradition can listen to music, okamase menu. meets the allure of a or stop for lunch, Starred Michelin. newcomer city. aperitivo or dinner. A corner of Sicily in Milan There’s a place in the heart of Brera where you can rediscover the most authentic flavours of the cuisine of www.aalto-restaurant.com Piazza Tre Torri – www.peck.it Via Alfredo Cappellini, 25 – moebiousmilano.it Talk about a “dinner view”? the best of artisan production and agricultural >> miview.it. Viale Achille Papa, 30. Modica and Scicli, in a setting boasting a distinctive Sicilian atmosphere. By Giulia Minero transformation. An experience acquired throught T: 02 78612732. M1 QT8. Map B1 elcome to Terrammare. An elegant to echo the words of Chef Peppe Barone and Discover the Mi View 5 dining room decorated with Restaurant6 Manager Stefania Lattuca. The 7 “Artigiano in Fiera”, the event that gathers every W cement tiles recovered from old gastronomic offering is based on the use of INSIEMESicilian residences and circular decorative authentic, local SicilianSOULGREEN produce that takes centre TERRAMMARE Restaurant in the Portello year under the same roof in Milan the best Italian elements, resembling those of a telescope, stage in dishes like ‘pasta with sarde’ revisited in a welcomes guests to the gastronomic universe of contemporary key, “cosciotto di coniglio glassato district, offering a breathtaking and foreign artisans (artigianoinfiera.it). Though deeply rooted Terrammare. Here, amidst wood tables, majolicas alla stimpirata”, with a sweetFor and lovers sour sauce of In the heart of Brera in Mediterranean and baroque elements inlaid in the boiserie and typical of caponatavegetarian-vegan or “risotto milanese portato you can rediscover A new evening format proposes 3 different large decorative chandeliers, typical of Sicilian al mare”, a symbol of the combination of Sicilian view and a refined cuisine, traditions, its cuisine tradition, diners can sample authentic Trinacria and Milanesecuisine cuisine. Particular, but notattention only, is paid the most authentic “gourmet cuisine trips” highlighting the is enhanced by a cuisine, with a particular focus on the areas of to the choice of wines.this The bistro restaurant offers offers an flavours in a setting mostly Italian. Modica and Scicli. The menu aims to “bring extensive wine list ranging from the finest labels excellence of Italian cooking, transcending few unexpected contemporary Sicilian cuisine to Milan, in keeping on the Sicily’sgluten-free wine-making scene fare to small and boasting a Sicilian the officially accepted distinctions between ingredients.with the constantly changing culinary scene, and emergingplant-based producers and biodynamic products. wineries. atmosphere. consists of an abundance of blue fish, to respect >> Via Giuseppe Sacchi, 8 the bio-diversity of the Mediterranean, creating T: 3488 074828. M2 Lanza. Map F4 antipasti, first courses, main courses and an ideal union between the land and the sea,” www.terrammare.rest he Mi View is located on the 20th floor desserts. Executive Chef Christian Spagnoli Via Giovanni Rasori, 12 – www.insieme.restaurant48 WHERE MILAN I FEBRUARY 2020Piazza Clotilde - www.soulgreen.com Via Giuseppe Sacchi, 8 – www.terrammare.rest of the futuristic Torre JWC - World Join has conceived “North South West East”, which T Center offering a breathtaking view envisages eleven regional stages, then “Nothing 8 9 10 is as it seems”, which plays around with textures over the Milanese skyline and is furnished in an CAVEAU DI TOP CARNE BERBERÉ elegant and contemporary style, over an area and aesthetics, and finally “Woodland and TRADIZIONI of more than 150 sq.m. coastline”, the quickest, composed of a selection In the neighbourhood Its success? Living Culinary specialties of the San Siro sourdough, organic The menu focuses on seasonal ingredients of five courses extrapolated from the other and conviviality of Stadium, tantalizing seasonal ingredients, and highlights the premium quality of niche trips. And the desserts? Pastry Chef Domenico Southern Italy meet dishes with select easily digestible producers of food and wine. Between the values Peragine completes the trips with three innovation in this new cuts from the best dough, a convivial that inspire the restaurant, a strong tie with delicious interpretations that are very exciting to gourmet restaurant. breeders in the world. concept. local artisans and farmers, mostly Italian: this discover. The “Milan View” lunch has also been is the result of twenty-five years of experience revised and tips a nod to simplicity with a menu Corso Sempione, 38 – www.caveauditradizioni.it Piazzale Lotto, 14 – www.topcarne.com Several locations - www.berberepizza.it

in getting to know, studying and promoting that is amended on a weekly basis. PH © LORENZA MERCURI

32 WHERE MILAN I FEBRUARY 2021 www.wheremilan.com 33 TASTING TASTING

TUTTEMilanese LE tasting “STELLE” DI MILANO Cracco Milan offers a cuisine featuring a number of truly unusual flavours. Here is a brief guide to make sure that you don’t miss out on several of the city’s best and most typical recipes.

RISOTTO ALLO ZAFFERANO This is one of the few dishes boasting a specific “birth date”. In fact, legend has it that, on 8 September 1574, master

glassmaker Valerio di Fiandra was PH © AFRICA STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOC.COM presented with a dish of saffron-coloured rice at his daughter’s wedding feast after >> INSIDER TIPS which time it became an iconic dish of • Breakfast time in Italy can be from Milanese cuisine. Master Chef Gualtiero 6am to 11am, depending on what time Marchesi has transformed this delicacy into you got up, and it usually includes a a real work of art, with the addition of a cappuccino, which is a morning drink, Ristorante Da Giannino square of edible gold leaf! We also suggest and “cornetto” or other sweet pastries. trying its crunchier version: so-called “riso • Lunchtime usually ranges from al salto”. Try the creative dishes signed by midday to 2pm (that is why many of the Carlo Cracco at his restaurant in Galleria TRIPE (OR BUSECCA) the most romantic is the story linking Dulcis in fundo, are the city’s famous shops of the shops close in these hours), Mondeghili Vittorio Emanuele (www.ristorantecracco.it) A hearty winter dish that will keep the cold its invention to Ugo, a young falconer desserts, pastries and confectionery. dinnertime from 8pm to 10pm. out, its main ingredient is the stomach lining employed by Prince Ludovico il Moro. In addition to world famed Italian •Between 6pm and 9pm it’s aperitivo COTOLETTA ALLA MILANESE of sheep or cows. It was originally served to Ugo yearned to conquer the heart of the gelato, an absolute “must” in time, an Italian tradition started in Mentioned for the first time in1500 at the celebrate special occasions in the peasant daughter of a poor baker named Toni. summer, year-round you can also Milan. If you’re feeling hungry between court of the Sforza, its “invention” was a world. Upgrades include the addition of To win her over, the nobleman disguised try Milan’s traditional Tiramisù 3pm and 5pm then it’s time for you source of contention with the Viennese oysters and caviar and can be sampled at himself as a baker and invented a rich (although the main ingredient of to have a “merenda”, a quick snack who laid claim to its origin. According Michelin-starred osteria, “Al Pont de Ferr” at bread in which he added to the flour the classic recipe includes coffee, between the two main meals. Should to the traditional recipe, the veal slices the Navigli district (pontdeferr.it). and yeast, butter, eggs, dried raisins and there are also other variations you be hungry at late night, you used should be at least as thick as a finger, candied lemon and orange peel. The on the theme) and Profiteroles, can check several list of late-night coated in egg and bread crumbs and CASSOEULA fame of the bread spread far and wide mouth watering chocolate coated restaurants in Milan.

deep fried in butter. One of the best places Acccording to the history books, composer PH © ALTISSIMOACETO and became known as “Pan del Toni” puffs filled with custard. Finally, • Never forget to check the restaurant’s to eat breaded veal cutlets in Milan is at and conductor Arturo Toscanini was mad (Toni’s bread). According to history, the there are also a number of other weekly closing day, which – most of “Da Giannino” (www.gianninoristorante.it) about this dish made from pork (sausages, tradition of panettone is documented by typical delicacies that are prepared the time – will be Monday. or at the “Al Garghet” restaurant pork rinds and spare ribs) and cabbage. For a manuscript conserved at the Biblioteca during the holiday season including • Reservations for most restaurants are (www.algarghet.it). a taste of old-world Milan, suggest you try it Ambrosiana dating back to the 15th Colomba (at Easter) and Chiacchiere strongly advised. at “Antica Trattoria della Pesa” in Via Pasubio century. Already at that time, on the night and Frittelle (at Carnival) and • In Italy, service is included in the (www.anticatrattoriadellapesa.com). of 24 December, it was customary for panettone (at Christmas). price meaning that although tipping the pater familias to place a huge log in is not compulsory but it is obviously MONDEGHILI the fireplace and to slice the large loaf of appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Small meat balls fried in butter and oil and bread which he then distributed among • Some menus include the word a signature dish of renowned chef Bruno those present. “coperto”, a small surcharge Barbieri who has made them an art form. From a gastronomic point of view, the corresponding to the cost of the service You can taste the traditional Milanese distinguishing feature of panettone is and bread (usually between 1 and 3 meat balls at “Al Matarel” that it is leavened two or three times. Its euros per person).

Cassoeula PH © STEFANOTRIULZI (www.almatarel.it). golden colour derives from the skilful • If you want tap water, you should combination of butter and egg yokes, specify it to the waiting staff of the PANETTONE while its overall beauty is completed restaurant or bar, asking for a glass of Boasting 500 years of tradition, by the orange, green and brown notes “acqua di rubinetto”. panettone is a type of large, sweet resulting from the addition of candied • Although no dress code exists in bread, leavened very slowly and enriched fruit and raisins. The gourmet trick is to Italy, semiformal clothing is usually with raisins and candied fruit. Amidst warm it for a few minutes in front of an considered de rigeur at restaurants. history and legend, the theories as to the open oven or on top of a radiator before • All restaurants and bars are non- NELEA33/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

origins of panettone vary widely. One of serving it. © smoking unless a separate smokers’

PH area is specifically offered.

34 WHERE MILAN I FEBRUARY 2021 Tripe PH © LORENZO CHINI www.wheremilan.com 35 TASTING | WINE EXPERIENCE TASTING

WHEN FASHION DRESSES WINE Some labels may come about through partnerships of great value and mutual inspiration, tracing a new path that certainly does not go unnoticed in terms of taste, class and elegance. Fashion and wine are two expressions of Italian style that stimulate each other, to enhance the message and win over the world. Here is a flavour of six special labels:

Donnafugata & Dolce & Gabbana (Sicily) When wine is all about www.donnafugata.it Tancredi 2016 Edizione Limitata Rosa 2019 (Cabernet Sauvignon, (Nerello Mascalese, Nocera) Nero d'Avola, Tannat…) the label Sicilia DOC Rosato Terre Siciliane IGT Rosso

Feudi del Pisciotto & Grandi Stilisti (Sicily) www.feudidelpisciotto.it

Cabernet Sauvignon Missoni Moscato Blumarine (Cabernet Sauvignon 100%) (Moscato 100%) Terre Siciliane IGT Terre Siciliane IGT

Have it ever happened that you’ve ine can communicate its nature, its culture and bought bottle of wine because maybe even its land of origin through the creativity and design of a label, and creatives and winemakers the label has attracted your have also recognised this dynamic. Consequently, attention? So punchy, attractive and in recent years the market has been enriched with promising that it persuades you original, attractive labels, but labels that have also Wbeen studied together with the wine in order to create a picture that is Sella&Mosca & Antonio Marras (Sardinia) that the content would be equally complete and in harmony with the content of the bottles themselves. www.sellaemosca.com fascinating. It very often happens, Let’s not forget the primary function of the label, which is the identity card of the bottle, with the information that is obligatory under the even without having an idea of the Ambat law and the optional details, so that consumers can be informed of its (Vermentino 100%) quality of the product, its price, content quickly. Vermentino di Sardegna DOC its area of origin or maybe even But now there are plenty of wineries that invest in communication, its colour… creating labels that definitely stand out from the crowd, becoming Mustazzo genuine works of art, expressions of a company philosophy, CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER (Cannonau 100%) BY CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER representatives of a territory with a vocation or perfect copies of the Certified Wine Expert and Owner Cannonau di Sardegna DOC character and taste of a wine translated into an image. Today we invite of Milano Wine Affair. Board member you to drink with your eyes, offering you a series of highly original labels. of FISAR Milan Delegation.

36 WHERE MILAN II FEBRUARY 2021 www.wheremilan.com 37 TASTING | WINE EXPERIENCE TASTING

ART IN THE COVER, Montevertine (Tuscany) - www.montevertine.it CREATIVITY AND EXCITEMENT: WHEN THE Teruzzi (Tuscany) BUT ALSO IN THE SUBSTANCE The artistic labels of Alberto Manfredi LABEL DEMANDS TO BE NOTICED www.teruzziwine.com Producing wine is a real art in itself. But we can also talk of art Original appealing labels have become the new trend, as we know, when we need to “dress” a bottle suitably, reflecting its content and and wine producers curate this aspect of their product particularly Isola Bianca origin, translating the whole thing into a sophisticated artistic Le Pergole Torte 2016 carefully: indeed, they have recognised the communicative power (Vernaccia di San Gimignano 100%) expression. Wineries have long placed their trust in the creativity (Sangiovese 100%) of the packaging, in which labels can serve not only to capture the Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG of professional artists to realise small masterpieces. In substance, Toscana IGT attention, but also to express a concept that is not always explicit, we can encounter two forms of creativity in a sublime wine bottle maybe offering an invitation to discover a story. By observing because, as Italian critic Piero Buscaroli has written, “art captures the these labels carefully, you will discover their hidden messages Melograni ephemeral pleasure of good taste, perpetuates and sublimates it”. through the representation of enchanting places, territories with a (Sangiovese 85%, particular vocation, age-old traditions, practices in the wine cellar, Petit Verdout 15%) respect for nature and much more besides. Toscana Rosso IGT Cantina di Kaltern (Alto Adige) - www.kellereikaltern.com

Emilio Bulfon (Friuli-Venezia Giulia) www.bulfon.it

La Tognazza (Tuscany) www.latognazza.com

kunst.stück Pinot Bianco kunst.stück Cabernet Sauvignon Le Pergole Torte 2008 (Pinot Bianco 100%) (Cabernet Sauvignon 100%) (Sangiovese 100%) Alto Adige DOC Alto Adige DOC Toscana IGT

Franz Haas (Alto-Adige) - www.franz-haas.it

Ucelùt Picolìt Neri – Etichetta Nera Voglia Matta 2017 Conte Mascetti 2016 (Ucelùt 100%) (Picolìt Neri 100%) (Chardonnay 100%) (75% Sangiovese 75%, Merlot 15%, Venezia Giulia IGT Tre Venezie IGT Toscana IGT Syrah 10%) Toscana IGT

Moscato Rosa Lagrein Cascina Castlet (Piedmont) La Valle della Luna (Sicily) (Moscato Rosa 100%) (Lagrein 100%) www.cascinacastlet.com www.lavalledellaluna.it Alto Adige DOC Alto Adige DOC

Massimago (Veneto) - www.massimago.com Limited Edition dedicated to Franco Chiani, the artist who created the personalities depicted on the bottle

Do you like this subject? If you’re in Milan, would you like to get to know Italian wine better, having fun at the same time? Cornelia G. Hassmüller organises wine- tastings, wine games and tours in the surrounding area. Info and contacts: [email protected] – Passum Policalpo Grifeo Nivuru Conte Gastone 2016 BIO Marchesa Mariabella 2018 BIO www.milanowineaffair.com (Barbera 100%) (Barbera 60%, Cabernet (Syrah Bio 100%) (Nero d’Avola 60%, Syrah 40%) (Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella) (Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella) Barbera d’Asti Sauvignon 40%) Sicilia DOC Sicilia DOC Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Valpolicella Ripasso DOC Superiore DOCG Monferrato Rosso DOC

38 WHERE MILAN I FEBRUARY 2021 www.wheremilan.com 39 Leisure FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREMILAN.COM ENTERTAINMENT & TOURS Milan is the home of the Aperitivo Aperitivo and Happy Hour in the city are most definitely a ritual which no Milanese is prepared to forego

The Aperitivo, the beloved Milanese tradition of pre-dinner drinks, is accompanied by complimentary “stuzzichini” and an all-you-can-eat buffet. Spreads range from traditional olives, nuts, cheeses and potato chips to Navigli awesome pasta dishes, “bruschetta”, cold cuts, crudités, raw fish and fruit salads. offer a stretch of great bars with a glam vibe of wines, cold cuts and typical cheeses. Generally, lasting for 3 hours from 6 to where, if you’re lucky, you might run into a • Brera District: an historic area boasting 9pm (though most people rarely get there famous super-model or footballer. Others a warren of characteristic venues offering until 7pm), the aperitivo scene has become also worth note, featuring a more laid-back live music and, believe it or not, fortune- an evening meeting for people of all ages. atmosphere, can be found in Brera or the tellers who are happy to predict your Cocktails – alcoholic or not – are expertly Navigli area. A sign of a popular place are future for a small fee…. mixed and a Negroni, Negroni sbagliato crowds of young people spilling out onto the • Garibaldi district & Corso Como: (a delicious mix of prosecco, red vermouth streets with a drink in one hand and a plate in this is Milan’s most fashionable area by and Aperol instead of gin) or a Spritz the other. Unlike other countries, the Milanese night, where not only will you find a are Milanese specialities. Favourite are quite happy to stop at one drink, so things bevy of pizzerie, restaurants, pubs and beverages consumed during this beloved rarely get out of hand. A fabulous idea to discotheques, but also possibly chance tradition in Milan include also the city’s relax at the end of a long day and the perfect upon showbiz celebs and sports heroes. renowned Martini, Prosecco or Campari, opportunity to enjoy a fabulous cocktail paired accompanied by an all-you-can-eat buffet. with good food at affordable prices. Welcome to green tourism TYPES OF VENUES AFTER THE APERITIVO… INSIDER TIPS A myriad of venues, ranging from the In fact, during aperitivo hour, people start Drink prices range from about 7-10 euros although several of smallest bars to larger, uberchic locations thinking about where to go for dinner, the more luxe, upmarket places situated in the heart of the city, organize in a city boasting a highly eclectic offer. Sant'Abbondio, Villa Olmo, the public gardens or visiting the Park of Villa Serbelloni. Then might ask as much as 15 euros. Not The tourism of the future this event. There are 3 types of venues: There are three main areas dedicated only will you be paying for a more with the Tempio Voltiano and the Broletto, the conclude your itinerary by travelling along the design bars, traditional bars (the places is green and highly to nighttime entertainment featuring a lavish buffet but it will probably city’s medieval municipal hall. After travelling lake-front to reach the city of Lecco and visit its that have written Milan’s history) and, the concentration of venues: also serve as your ticket to VIP and personalisable. Why not try through the town of Cernobbio in the silence of historic centre, but not before allowing yourself latest trend, all luxury hotel bars. • Navigli District: an area characterized celeb watching. Milan is the capital your electric car, you head north, to admire Villa to be enchanted by the landscape that inspired it in person with a tour to by places offering live music, patronized of cocktail hour snacking and del Balbianello. Located on the western bank Alessandro Manzoni’s novel “The Betrothed”. discover the beauties of Lake WHERE TO GO by artists, models, musicians and practically ever bar and club in of the lake, this eighteenth-century dwelling >> Book your electric car at There are endless aperitivo options. university students. Must-try options the city offers some kind of happy Como in an electric car? surrounded by terraced gardens boasts unique www.noleggioelettrico.com or email Several of the most famous are situated are its boat bars and the area’s old hour, competing to offer the most BY GIULIA MINERO views of the nearby Isola Comacina and has [email protected] alluring pre-dinner scene in town. in Piazza Sempione or Corso Como and osterie where you can sample an array been the backdrop for numerous films. If you Discover more about electric mobility in Italy have a weakness for the architectures of the past, at www.wheremilan.com/tips ake Como, with its landscapes and a visit to Villa Carlotta in the town of Tremezzo its resorts rich in history, is the ideal is a must, maybe also making time for a pause for Ldestination for a one-day trip in an refreshments. Don't worry about consumption, electric car, thanks also to its proximity to Milan. however; the Tesla battery boasts a high level of With the service offered by NoleggioElettrico, autonomy and enables you to carry out your tour up to 48 hours before your departure you can without any need for recharging. After visiting the RASTO SK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM choose the Tesla car that best meets your needs villa, its art collections and botanical gardens, you from the Model S, Model X or Model 3 head for Menaggio and embark, with your car, on and request delivery to your door, to your hotel the ferryboat that crosses the lake in the direction

or at the airport. You begin your tour in the of Bellagio. Here, in the town considered “the BORIS-B / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM TRAVELSH Brera © Piazza Sempione © direction of Como and discover some of its pearl of the lake”, you can devote your energies to attractions, such as the Duomo, the Basilica of shopping, walking in the pedestrian-only streets PHOTO LAKE COMO ©

40 WHERE MILAN I FEBRUARY 2021 www.wheremilan.com 41 FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREMILAN.COM

PHOTO COURTESY OF MIBACT PHOTO COURTESY LANDMARKS MUSEUMS & Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Itineraries Tecnologia “Leonardo da Vinci” LANDMARKS & MUSEUMS Duomo EXHIBITION SITES Housed in a 16th century monastery, this is one of the most important museums of science and Among one of the most important Gothic buildings Ambrosiana Picture Gallery and Library in the world, the church, constructed on and off over technology in the world. www.museoscienza.org. Works of art from the 15th through 17th centuries. a period of 450 years (begun 1386), is the symbol Map D5 The library contains one million books including of Milan. www.duomomilano.it. Map F4 manuscripts and prints. www.ambrosiana.it. Castello Sforzesco Map F5 It houses a remarkable collection of Italian Renaissance masters and displays weapons, The ancient seat of the ruling Visconti, it houses Gallerie d’Italia-Piazza Scala a number of interesting museums and libraries. ceramics, glass, textiles, clocks, watches and Housed in three historic buildings, it hosts www.milanocastello.it Map E4 jewellery. www.museopoldipezzoli.it. masterpieces of 19th and 20th century Italian art Map F4 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II from the collections of Fondazione Cariplo and The Galleria with its elegant, four-storey arcade, Intesa Sanpaolo. www.gallerieditalia.com. Map F4 Museo San Siro The first and only museum in Italy inside a housing over 55 luxury cafés and famous designer GAM | Galleria d’Arte Moderna shops, is covered by a glass barrel vault and a Stadium, the San Siro Museum displays all kinds Inaugurated in 1921, it is above all a “nineteenth beautiful glass cupola. Map F4 of historic items from two of the most successful century museum” hosting mainly Italian and French Italian Football League clubs: A.C. Milan and F.C. works of art. www.gam-milano.com. Map G3 Last Supper Internazionale (Inter). www.sansiro.net. One of the most famous attractions in the world, Leonardo3 – The World of Leonardo Off Map the “Cenacolo” by Leonardo da Vinci is a large The exhibit allows visitors to appreciate the many century mural paintig in the refectory of the Palazzo Reale sides of Leonardo da Vinci’s technical and artistic church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. One of the most important cultural centres in the production with interactive stations, fully functioning www.cenacolovinciano.net. Map D4 city hosting exhibitions of international renown. machines, unprecedented physical reconstructions, www.palazzorealemilano.it. Map F5 Teatro alla Scala digital restorations and threedimensional Inaugurated 1778, it‘s a not to be missed destination reconstructions of his creations. Pinacoteca di Brera for ballet and opera lovers. www.teatroallascala.org. www.leonardo3.net. Map F4 One of the most spectacular collections of art in Italy, it is located in the Neo-classical building of Map F4 MUDEC | Museum of Cultures the same name which also houses other cultural A multi-disciplinary hub dedicated to cultures of the Navigli institutions including the Braidense Library, world with rooms hosting the museum’s collection A widespread network of canals whose history is the Astronomical Observatory, the Botanical and temporary exhibitions, an auditorium, a bistrot, linked to the genius of Leonardo da Vinci. One of the Gardens, the Istituto Lombardo Accademia di a design store, a cafeteria, a starred restaurant and most vibrant districts in the city. Map E6 Scienze e Lettere and the Academy of Fine Arts. a library. www.mudec.it. Map C6 Porta Nuova pinacotecabrera.org. Map F3 Fabbrica del Vapore Stazione Centrale Milan’s most futuristic urban space, redesigning Museo del Design Italiano Prada Foundation both its skyline and character. A virtuous link with Located on the ground floor of the Triennale Milano, A space dedicated to innovative projectsGrattacielo by Pirelli it hosts a selection of the most representative the Garibaldi and Isola districts: hi-tech stores, contemporary artists, established by arts patron pieces of Italian design from 1946 to 1981. arcades, bookstores, cafés and the new green Miuccia Prada. www.fondazioneprada.org. Portello www.triennale.org. Map E3 Porta Nuova space “Biblioteca degli Alberi”. Map F2 Map H7 Discovering Leonardo’s masterpiece St. Ambrose Basilica Museo del Duomo Shoah Memorial of Milan It houses and highlights all the material not presently One of the most ancient churches in Milan, A unique commemorative place that honours the in use in the Duomo, linked to its history and it is a wonderful example of Romanesque style. victims of the mass extermination also representing construction. museo.duomomilano.it. Map F5 www.basilicasantambrogio.it. Map E5 a “living educational memorial” where people can San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore actively experience the tragedy of the Shoah. composition and the individual figures, through Instagram (cenacolo_vinciano) and One of the most famous Known as the “Sistine Chapel of Milan”, this church It hosts more than 400 masterpieces of Italian www.memorialeshoah.it. Map H1 describing their “motions of the soul” through Facebook (Museo del Cenacolo Vinciano) attractions in the world, but has an interiorCity boasting Life some of the most beautiful and international modern art – ranging from Triennale Milano Fontana to Picasso – at the Palazzo dell’Arengario. gestures, expressions and body language. profiles and download the free App in frescoes in the city. Map E4 One of the most vibrant exhibition centres in not easily accessible due to www.museodelnovecento.org. Map F5 For this masterpiece, da Vinci did not adopt 8 languages which offers a unique visit Cimitero Monumentale Arena Civica the city, it owns the most important permanent strict conservation regulations, the usual fresco technique, seeking instead route (Cenacolo Vinciano). collection of design works and has a superb A real outdoor museum catering works of art Museo di Storia Naturale Palazzo della Permanente Leonardo da Vinci's Last a method that would allow him to make by famous sculptors of various eras. Home to valuable mineral, botanical and zoological media library on design, art and architecture. www.triennale.org. Map D3 Supper has become “for continual adjustments on the work. Just a www.comune.milano.it Map E1 collections.VIA www.comune.milano.it.DELL’ ARTE Map G3 Palazzo Dugnani few years after the fresco was completed, Aquario Civico Planetario La Triennale everyone” thanks to new PACPAC however, the paint began coming away multimedia supports. Teatro Strehler Palazzo Moriggia GAM from the plaster, and the supporting layer 900 METRI LINEARI Museo Civico di Storia Naturale Pinacoteca di BreraBrera gradually crumbled. The most recent Milan’s Street of Art PINACOTECA DI BRERA restoration work, lasting over twenty years, PALAZZO CITTERIO Palazzo Citterio TEATRO DELLA SCALA Castello Sforzesco he large mural painting by Leonardo, removed the layers of dirt and the materials The city of Milan is enriched by an art circuit featuringGALLERIE the D’ITALIA city’s representing the scene of the last added during earlier work, bringing large three main museum hubs: the Pinacoteca di BreraGALLERIA, the Gallerie VITTORIO EMANUELE Teatro della Scala Museo Poldi Pezzoli DUOMO Palazzo Morando supper of Jesus narrated in the Gospel, parts of the original painting to light. d'Italia in piazza della Scala and the civic complexPALAZZO consisting REALE Museo di Storia Contemporanea T MUSEO DEL 900 adorns a wall of the huge refectory in the of Palazzo Reale and the Museo del Novecento. Gallerie d’Italia On the occasion of the 500th anniversary Palazzo Litta Chiesa di San Babila convent annexed to the church of Santa of Leonardo’s death (2019), a multimedia An itinerary extending over 900 metres, that can be crossed on Palazzo Marino Maria delle Grazie. Work on the Last Supper project was launched to open the Refectory foot in just 15 minutes, from via Brera to piazzetta Reale, cutting Santa Maria delle Grazie Galleria Vittorio Emanuele began around 1494 and was completed in to everyone, at least on a virtual level. You through piazza Scala and the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, which Museo Archeologico 1497: Leonardo devoted painstaking attention Palazzo Duomo can consult the dedicated website with hosts an extraordinary part of our country’s art history, thus della Ragione to every detail of his works and he began useful information for the visit and in-depth making Milan a prestigious international art capital. Museo del Fumetto with the overall conception of the wall, and information (www.cenacolovinciano.org), 900 Palazzo Reale then devoted lengthy study to the general discover communication via social media Biblioteca Chiesa di Sant’Ambrogio Sormani

42 WHERE MILAN I FEBRUARY 2021 www.wheremilan.com 43 Palazzo di Giustizia Porta Vittoria Museo Nazionale della Scienza Palazzina Liberty Università Statale

Chiesa di San Nazzaro (Cappella Trivulzio)

Museo Diocesano Darsena

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Fondazione Pomodoro ESSENTIALS MAPS & INFO FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREMILAN.COM Emergency UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM MILAN • EUROPEAN EMERGENCY NUMBER. 112

S7 S8 S9 S11 112 is the unique European Emergency Number

created to provide all European citizens with 4h 01m 3h 40m S2 S4 48m Limite tariffa / Fare limit a single number: Ambulance, Firefighters, Police. 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 • PASSPORTS Questura di Milano, Cusano via Fatebenefratelli, 11. T: 02 62261 Milanino Sesto San Giovanni S1 S3 Cinisello Balsamo Tariffa / Fare GESSATE 6 zone Mi1 - Mi6 Bresso S7-S8 Street markets (see map pages 46-47) SESTO 1° MAGGIO FS S9-S11 Cormano Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani CASCINA ANTONIETTA Urban passes fare limit SESTO RONDÒ GORGONZOLA Tariffa / Fare Bollate 5 zone Mi1 - Mi5 1. FIERA DI SINIGAGLIA STREET MARKET– 37m Bruzzano VILLA POMPEA S2-S4 BIGNAMI The only “flea market” in Milan, it attracts a varied Novate Milanese Parco Nord S5 COMASINA SESTO MARELLI BUSSERO public ranging from collectors to bargain hunters. S6 RHO S5-S6 PONALE CASSINA DE’ PECCHI Tariffa / Fare Fieramilano S11 VILLA SAN GIOVANNI COLOGNO NORD 4 zone Mi1 - Mi4 Saturdays. www.fieradisinigaglia.it AFFORI FN BICOCCA Greco VILLA FIORITA Quarto Oggiaro S2-S4 Bicocca Ripa di Porta Ticinese (from via Paoli S1-S3 CA’ GRANDA S7-S8 PRECOTTO Cologno Monzese CERNUSCO S.N. S9-S11 AFFORI CENTRO ISTRIA COLOGNO CENTRO CASCINA BURRONA to via Bersanti) Pero Baranzate Bovisa Politecnico GORLA DERGANO MARCHE COLOGNO SUD VIMODRONE PERO S1-S2-S3-S4 MACIACHINI ZARA Vimodrone 2. NAVIGLIO GRANDE ANTIQUE MARKET – TURRO Metro automatico per S. Raffaele Automatic train to S. Raffaele CASCINA GOBBA A “not-to-be-missed” date for collectors the Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Certosa Villapizzone S5-S6 -S11 S5-S6 -S11 ROVERETO CRESCENZAGO Urban passes fare limit Lancetti ISOLA world over. Last Sunday of every month. S1-S2-S5 CIMIANO S6-S12-S13 SONDRIO PASTEUR Naviglio Grande, from the Darsena to the MOLINO DORINO UDINE S. LEONARDO DOMODOSSOLA FN GERUSALEMME MONUMENTALE GIOIA CAIAZZO LORETO bridge in via Valenza. M2 Porta Genova FS. LAMBRATE FS BONOLA TRE TORRI CENISIO GARIBALDI FS CENTRALE FS PIOLA S9 URUGUAY LIMA 3. MERCATINO FILATELICO (STAMPS AND imi t l LAMPUGNANO 3 e PORTELLO

i S1-S2-S5-S6 r S1-S2-S5 a QT8 COINS) – A historic market and the third largest M MOSCOVA

F S11-S12-S13 -

REPUBBLICA P.TA VENEZIA S6-S12-S13 / 1 SAN SIRO i a LOTTO M Stadio S1-S2-S5 Segrate in Europe. Open on Sundays and weekdays. Settimo Milanese SAN SIRO SEGESTA LANZA S6-S12-S13 rban i one tari ff TURATI

PALESTRO u z

Ippodromo Dateo i

3 AMENDOLA t Via Armorari, Via Cordusio, Via C. Cantù,

S1-S2 imi t SAN BABILA l S5-S6 - e r Li mi te MONTENAPOLEONE S5

BUONARROTI PAGANO CONCILIAZIONE a S12-S13 f Galleria Cordusio. M1 Cordusio, M1- M3 Duomo. DUOMO P. Vittoria Forlanini S6 WAGNER CADORNA FN CAIROLI CORDUSIO S1-S2-S5 S5-S6-S9 imi t l S6-S12-S14 a abboname n 3 e i MISSORI r 4. VIALE PAPINIANO STREET MARKET – DE ANGELI a M F - tari ff Urban passes /

S. AMBROGIO GAMBARA CROCETTA a

ff Held twice-weekly, this is Milan’s largest street S. AGOSTINO i Li mi te one M i1 P.TA ROMANA ta r

BANDE NERE z P. Romana FS P.TA GENOVA FS 3 market. Tuesdays and Saturdays. PRIMATICCIO S. Cristoforo LODI TIBB S9 S9 Li mi te Viale Papiniano. M2 Sant’Agostino. INGANNI ROMOLO FAMAGOSTA BRENTA BISCEGLIE 5. ANTIQUE AND SECOND-HAND BOOK CORVETTO ASSAGO Milanofi ori Nord MARKET – A monthly appointment for booksellers Buccinasco P.ZA ABBIATEGRASSO PORTO DI MARE Cesano Boscone Chiesa Rossa from all over the world. Every second Sunday of the ROGOREDO FS ASSAGO S1-S12-S13 month (excluding the months of July and August). Corsico Milanofi ori Forum S. DONATO Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Peschiera Borromeo Piazza Diaz. M1-M3 Duomo. Urban passes fare limit 6. CASCINA CUCCAGNA – A 17th century Assago Rozzano Opera San Donato Milanese farmhouse in Milan hosting a farmers’ food market. S9 Every Tuesday, from 3.30pm to 8pm.

Limite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 www.cuccagna.org. S13 S1 S12 Via Cuccagna, corner of via Muratori. Milan METROPOLITANA LINEA 1 / Fare Stazione accessibile (ascensori) Linea 73 per Aeroporto di Linate 7. EAST MARKET – A pure East London-inspired UNDERGROUND LINE 1 Urban passes fare limit Step-free station (lifts) Line 73 to Linate Airport 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 market boasting vintage or second-hand METROPOLITANA LINEA 2 metro / Fare limit Stazione accessibile (montascale) Bus per Aeroporto di Linate, Malpensa e Orio al Serio UNDERGROUND LINE 2 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 / Fare Step-free station (stairlifts) Bus service to Linate, Malpensa and Orio al Serio Airports clothes and accessories, as well as street food. METROPOLITANA LINEA 3 4 zone Mi1 - Mi4 ATM Point: informazioni e punto vendita network Malpensa Express UNDERGROUND LINE 3 ATM Point: information and sales point Every third Sunday of the month, 10am-9pm. / Fare METROPOLITANA LINEA 4 5 zone Mi1 - Mi5 Linee ferroviarie regionali Terminal bus lunga percorrenza www.eastmarketmilano.com. Via Mecenate, 84 UNDERGROUND LINE 4 Regional railways Long distance bus terminal / Fare 6 zone Mi1 - Mi6 Interscambio con rete ferroviaria Parcheggio di corrispondenza ATM 8. MERCATINO ANTIQUARIATO E BROCANTAGE DI Connection with railway system ATM car park Per gentile concessione di ATM Aggiornato il 19 luglio BRERA Every third Sunday of the month in the charming Brera district, from 9am to 6pm. ITALO - High Speed Rail. Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance (www.terravision.eu) € 8; Autostradale Via Fiori Chiari-via Madonnina – T: 892020. www.italotreno.it (www.autostradale.it) Ticket € 8. T: 02 72001304. BIKE SHARING - Public bicycle transport system via Formentini. M2 Lanza. GETTING AROUND MILAN to be used for short trips. Available everyday, Tourist Information TRENORD - Malpensa Express - Regional & Suburban Train > from the Central Station (Stazione 9. VIA FAUCHÉ STREET MARKET– Very appreciated ATM - Azienda Trasporti Milanesi – from 6am to midnight. www.bikemi.com Railway . Info T: 02 72494949. Mon-Sun 7am-9pm. Centrale). Travel time 50’ ca. It is possible to reach Local Public Transport Company - INFOPOINT - TOURIST OFFICE OF MILAN by the fashionistas. You can find discounted clothes www.trenord.it. The MALPENSA EXPRESS Malpensa also from the Garibaldi FS Station. KICK-SCOOTER - The most enjoyable ride Open daily 7.30am-7.30pm. www.atm.it. Piazza Duomo, 14 and shoes of the most prestigious Italian stylists. (www.malpensaexpress.it) links the centre of Milan Ticket € 13. www.trenitalia.com in the city is provided by Wind Mobility, T: 02 48607607 (7.30am-7.30pm). Multilingual tourist assistance and information; Twice a week, every Tuesday (7.30am-1pm) and with the intercontinental hub at Malpensa Airport Train > from Cadorna Station. Travel time 40' ca. Bit Mobility, Helbiz Italia, Bird, EM Transit, Lost and Found on ATM Vehicles: free distribution of maps and brochures. Saturday (7.30am-5pm). (Terminal 1 & Terminal 2) with 146 trains a day, Trenord (www.malpensaexpress.it). Ride Hive Operations, LMTS Italy, Govolt Mon-Fri 8.30am-4pm. Via Friuli, 30. T: 02 88453900. Open Mon-Fri 9am-7pm; Sat-Sun and holidays between 4.27am and 00.20am. 68 trips to and from Ticket € 13. (www.trenord.it). T: 02 72494949. and Voi Technology. 10. MERCATO DEL SUFFRAGIO – Municipal market Ordinary ticket (2€) Valid for 90 minutes. 10am-1pm. T: 02 88455555 - www.yesmilano.it Milano Centrale (also stopping at Milano Porta MILANO LINATE (LIN) - (6 km from the centre of [email protected] in corso XXII Marzo. From Tuesday to Saturday Can be used on buses, trams or the metro (7.30am-11pm) and Sunday (7.30am-4pm). Garibaldi) and 78 to and from Milano Cadorna. Milan). Flight information 24h-24h T: 02 232323 Day ticket (7€) Valid 24h. CITYSIGHTSEEING MILANO HOP ON-HOP OFF You can also find tourist information in the (call center). www.milanolinate-airport.com Unlimited travel on buses, trams and the metro. Hallmark red double-decker bus. 7 days a week, brand new office: Trains Airports ORIO AL SERIO (BGY) - Three-day ticket (12€) Valid for 3 consecutive days all year around. 48 hours: ticket valid for 4 lines, YESMILANO TOURISM SPACE-CAMERA (45 km from the centre of Milan – A4 direction from the day of the first validation until the end over 40 stops. 10 language commentary. Prices: DI COMMERCIO & COMUNE DI MILANO TRENITALIA - National Railway Company MILANO MALPENSA (MXP) - Bergamo). Flights and bus info 24h-24h. of the service on the third day. Adults (1 day) € 22 - (48 hours) € 25 – (72 hours) Palazzo Giureconsulti - Via dei Mercanti 8 Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com (45 km from the centre of Milan - A8 direction T: 035 326323. www.orioaeroporto.it. Unlimited travel on buses, trams and the metro. € 28 - reduced € 10. Departure: Foro Bonaparte A highly-digital environment created to Milan offers fast-track access to major cities across Varese). Flight and bus info T: 02 232323. • Connection to Orio al Serio-Bergamo Check rates for the extra-urban subway. 12, in front of Zani Viaggi/Milan Visitor Center "immerse" visitors into a multi-sensory and Italy thanks to its high-speed trains. www.milanomalpensa-airport.com Bus from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale, https://nuovosistematariffario.atm.it/en/ (M1 Cairoli). T: 02 867131. You can join the tour technological experience. Open Mon-Fri 9am- • Turin: 55 min • Bologna: 1 hour • Florence: 1 hour 40 • Connection to Milano Malpensa corner Piazza Luigi di Savoia). Travel time 60’. Where to buy your ticket: from all authorized ticket from any stop. Tickets on board, in hotels and 6.30pm; Sat-Sun and holidays 1.30pm-5.30pm min • Venice: 2 hours 35 min • Rome: 2 hours 55 min • Bus > from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale, Orioshuttle (www.orioshuttle.com). sellers, ATM POINTs (Duomo M1-M3, Centrale M2-M3, authorized agencies or on internet. Purchase T: 02 85155931 - www.yesmilano.it - Naples: 4 hours 15 min corner Piazza IV Novembre). Travel time 50’. T: 035 330706; Autostradale (www.autostradale.it). Cadorna M1-M2, Garibaldi M2-M5, Loreto M1-M2, your Combo tickets for top attractions on board [email protected] For more info about the Italy-Switzerland railway Air Pullman (www.malpensashuttle.com) T: 035 322915; Terravision (www.terravision.eu) Romolo M2). and automatic ticket vendors. at special prices. www.zaniviaggi.com Map E4 connections: www.trenitalia.com or www.ffs.ch. Ticket € 10. T: 02 58583185; Terravision Ticket € 5.

44 WHERE MILAN I FEBRUARY 2021 www.wheremilan.com 45 A B C D E F G H I L Milano Map 1 CENTRAL MAP at page 21 1

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1 Duomo-Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 3 Via Montenapoleone - Quadrilatero 5 Via Torino 7 Garibaldi-Corso Como 9 Corso XXII Marzo 11 Vercelli-Belfiore-Marghera Navigli (G8-G9) | Brera (H5) | Corso Garibaldi & Corso Como (H3) | Porta Venezia (G3-H3) LEONARDO SHOPPING AREAS TOP IN TOWN ENTERTAINMENT LEGENDA 2 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 4 Via Dante 6 Brera-Solferino 8 Corso Buenos Aires 10 Navigli-Porta Ticinese 12 CityLife Shopping District See page 6 AREAS Arco della Pace-Piazza Sempione (F4-G4) | Isola (H1-I1) | CityLife (C2-C3) | Porta Romana DISTRICT

A B C D E F G H I L DISCOVER MORE ONLY [ ONLY AT PREMIERE HOTELS ] IN THE ROOMS OF THE BEST HOTELS Where Milan Magazine and online 5 STARS DELUXE (L) & 5 STARS Da Vinci Milano – Via Senigallia, 6 • OFF MAP NH Milano Palazzo Moscova – Via Monte Grappa, 12b • MAP F2 Armani Hotel (L) – Via Manzoni, 31 • F4 De la Ville – Viale Regina Margherita di Savoia, 15 - Monza (MI) • OFF MAP NH Milano Touring – Via U. Tarchetti, 2 • G3 Baglioni Hotel Carlton Milano – Via Senato, 5 • G4 Del Corso – Via G. Pecchio, 2 • I1 NH Milano 2 – Via F.lli Cervi - Segrate (Milano 2) • OFF MAP Bulgari Hotels & Resorts (L) – Via Privata Fratelli Gabba, 7/b • F4 Domina Milano Fiera Hotel & Congress – Via G. di Vittorio, 66 NHOW Milano – Via Tortona, 35 • C6 FELICE A TESTACCIO Château Monfort – Corso Concordia, 1 • H4 – Novate Milanese (MI) • OFF MAP Novotel Milano Malpensa Aeroporto – Via al Campo, 99 - Excelsior Hotel Gallia (L) – Piazza Duca d'Aosta, 9 • G2 Doria Grand Hotel – Via A. Doria, 22 • H1 Cardano al Campo (VA) • Off Map Roman cuisine since 1936 Fifty House – Via B. Cellini, 14 • H5 Double Tree by Hilton – Via Ludovico di Breme, 77 • OFF MAP Nu – Via Feltre, 19/b • Off Map Fifty House Soho – Via E. Cornalia, 7 • G2 Enterprise – Corso Sempione, 91 • C1 NYX Milan – Piazza IV Novembre, 3 . G1 Milano Four Seasons Hotel Milano (L) – Via Gesù, 6/8 • G4 First Hotel Malpensa – Via Baracca, 34 - Case Nuove Oro Blu – Piazzale Lotto, 14, corner of Via Veniero • MAP B2 Galleria Vik Milano (L) – Via S. Pellico, 8 • F5 (Somma Lombardo) Malpensa Airport• OFF MAP Osteria della Pista – Via Verbano, 1 (Casorate Sempione, VA) • OFF MAP Grand Hotel et de Milan (L) – Via A. Manzoni, 29 • F4 Four Points by Sheraton Milan Center – Via G. Cardano, 1 • G1 Palazzo delle Stelline – Corso Magenta, 61 • E4 Magna Pars Suites – Via Forcella, 6 • D6 Galileo – Corso Europa, 9 • G4 Palazzo Segreti – Via San Tomaso, 8 • E4 Mandarin Oriental Milan – Via Andegari, 9 • F4 Glam Hotel – Piazza Duca d’Aosta, 4/6 • G2 Phi Hotel Milano – Via Falzarego, 1 (Baranzate) • OFF MAP ME Milan Il Duca (L) – Piazza della Repubblica, 13 • G2 Grand Hotel Barone Di Sassj – Via V. Padovani, 38 - Sesto San Pioppeto – Via Strà Madonna, 15 – Saronno (VA) • OFF MAP Meliá – Via Masaccio, 19 • B2 Giovanni (MI) • OFF MAP Radisson Blu – Via Villapizzone, 24 • OFF MAP NH Collection Milano President – Largo Augusto, 10 • G5 Grand Visconti Palace – Viale Isonzo, 14 • H7 Raffaello – Viale Certosa, 108 • OFF MAP Palazzo Parigi (L) – Corso di Porta Nuova, 1 • F2 H2C Milanofiori – Via R. Bartolomea, 5 - Assago (MI) • OFF MAP Ramada Plaza– Via d’Ancona, 27 • OFF MAP Park Hyatt (L) – Via T. Grossi, 1 • F4 Hilton – Via L. Galvani, 12• G1 Regina – Via C. Correnti, 13 • E5 Pierre – Via De Amicis, 32 • E5 Hilton Garden Inn Milan North – Via Columella, 36 • OFF MAP Residence Desenzano Milano – Via Desenzano, 12 • A5 Principe di Savoia (L) – Piazza della Repubblica, 17• G2 Holiday Inn Garibaldi – Via U. Bassi, 1/A • F1 Residence Romana – Corso di Porta Romana, 64 • G6 SINA The Gray – Via San Raffaele, 6 • F4 Hotel dei Cavalieri – Piazza Missori, 1 • F5 Room Mate Giulia – Via Silvio Pellico, 4 • F4 Style – Via delle Erbe • E3 Hyatt Centric Milano Centrale – Via G.B. Pirelli, 20 • MAP G1 Royal Garden – Via G. Di Vittorio, Assago (MI) • OFF MAP The Westin Palace (L) – Piazza della Repubblica, 20 • G2 IH ApartHotel Milano Argonne Park – Via E. Paladini, 7 – MAP L4 Sanpi – Via L. Palazzi, 18 • G3 TownHouse Duomo (L) – Via S. Pellico, 2 • F5 IH Hotels Lorenteggio – Via Lorenteggio, 278 • OFF MAP Savona 18 Suites – Via Savona, 18 • Map D6 Viu Milan – Via Fioravanti, 6 • E2 IH Hotels Milano Ambasciatori – Galleria Del Corso, 3 • G4 Senato Hotel Milano – Via Senato, 22 • E5 IH Hotels Milano Gioia – Via della Giustizia, 10/d • OFF MAP Sheraton Diana Majestic – Viale Piave, 42 • H3 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES IH Hotels Milano Watt 13 – Via G. Watt, 13 • MAP B7 Sheraton Milan Malpensa Airport – Ferno (VA) - AC Hotel Milano by Marriott – Via E. Tazzoli, 2 • E1 IH Hotels Residence Argonne Park – Via E. Paladini, 7 • OFF MAP Aeroporto Malpensa 2000, Terminal 1 • OFF MAP Acca Palace – Via G. Nicotera, 9 • OFF MAP Il Castelletto – Via dell’Ecologia, 7/9 – Casarile (MI) • OFF MAP Sheraton Milan San Siro – Via Caldera, 21 • OFF MAP Accursio – Viale Certosa, 88 • OFF MAP International Residence – Via G. Modena, 4 • H4 Silver – Via R. Lombardi, 9/11• OFF MAP Admiral – Via Domodossola, 16 • C2 Just – Via N. Torriani, 29 • MAP G2 SINA De la Ville – Via U. Hoepli, 6 • F5 Andreola Central – Via D. Scarlatti, 24 • H2 J24 – Viale Jenner, 24 • OFF MAP Spadari al Duomo – Via Spadari, 11 • F5 Antares Accademia – Viale Certosa, 68 • OFF MAP King Mokinba – Corso Magenta, 19 • D4 Star – Via dei Bossi, 5 • Map F4 Antares Rubens – Via P. P. Rubens, 21 • A4 Klima – Via Venezia Giulia, 8 • OFF MAP Starhotels Anderson – Piazza Luigi di Savoia, 20 • H1 Antica Locanda dei Mercanti – Via San Tomaso, 6 • F4 Lancaster – Via A. Sangiorgio, 16 • D3 Starhotels Business Palace – Via Privata Pietro Gaggia, 3 • OFF MAP Arcimboldi – Viale Sarca, 336 • OFF MAP Leonardo Hotel Milan City Center – Via Messina, 10 • E2 Starhotels Echo – Viale A. Doria, 4 • H1 AS Cambiago – Viale delle Industrie - Cambiago (MI) • OFF MAP LHP Napoleon – Via F. Ozanam 12 • H2 Starhotels Grand Milan – Via Varese, 23 – Saronno (VA) • OFF MAP AS Hotel dei Giovi – Via Manzoni, 99 - Cesano Maderno (MB) • OFF MAP Lloyd – Corso di Porta Romana, 48 • F5 Starhotels Ritz – Via L. Spallanzani, 40 • H3 AS Limbiate Fiera – Corso Como, 52 - Limbiate (MB) • OFF MAP M89 – Via Mecenate, 89 • OFF MAP Starhotels Rosa Grand – Piazza Fontana, 3 • F5 AS Monza – Viale Lombardia, 76/78 – Monza (MB) • OFF MAP Maison Borella – Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 8 • E6 Straf – Via San Raffaele, 3 • F4 AS Sempione Fiera – S.S. del Sempione, 320 – Maison Milano | UNA Esperienze – Via G. Mazzini, 4 • F5 Sunflower– Piazzale Lugano, 10 • OFF MAP San Vittore Olona (MI) • OFF MAP Manin – Via Manin, 7 • G3 Terminal – Via Ponte Seveso, 38 • Map G1 Ascot – Via Lentasio, 3 • F5 Manzoni – Via Santo Spirito, 20 • G4 The Hub – Via Privata Polonia, 10 • OFF MAP Auriga – Via G.B. Pirelli, 7 • G2 Marriott – Via G. Washington, 66 • B5 The Originals Hotel Milan Nasco – Corso Sempione, 69 • C1 Barceló Milan – Via Stephenson, 55 • OFF MAP Matilde Boutique Hotel – Via Spadari, 1 • F5 The Square Milano Duomo – Via Albricci, 2-4 • F5 Baviera Mokinba – Via P. Castaldi, 7 • G3 Mediolanum – Via M. Macchi, 1 • G2 The Yard Milano – Piazza XXIV Maggio, 8 • E6 Berna – Via N. Torriani, 18 • G2 Mercure Milano Centro – Piazza G. Oberdan, 12 • H3 Tocq Hotel – Via A.De Tocqueville, 7/D • F2 Best Western Antares Concorde – Viale Monza, 132 • OFF MAP Mercure Milano Regency – Via G. Arimondi, 12 • C1 TownHouse 33 Boutique Hotel – Via C. Goldoni, 33 • H4 Best Western Astoria – Viale Murillo, 9 • A3 Metrò – Corso Vercelli, 61 • C4 Trova il Tempo – Via Novara, 216 • OFF MAP Best Western Goldenmile Milan – Viale Cristoforo Colombo, 33 • D6 Michelangelo – Piazza Luigi di Savoia, 6 • H1 UNAHOTELS Century Milano – Via F. Filzi, 25/b • G2 Best Western Madison – Via L. Gasparotto, 8 • G1 MiHotel – Via dei Fontanili, 56 • OFF MAP UNAHOTELS Cusani Milano – Via Cusani, 13 • E4 Best Western Major – Viale Isonzo, 2 • MAP H7 Milan Suite Hotel – Via Varesina, 124 • OFF MAP UNAHOTELS Expo Fiera Milano – Via G. Keplero, 12 – Pero (MI) Best Western Mirage – Viale Certosa, 104/106 • OFF MAP Milano Castello – Via San Tomaso, 2 • MAP F4 • OFF MAP Best Western Plus Felice Casati – Via F. Casati, 18 • G2 Milano Palmanova – Via Palmanova, 153 • OFF MAP UNAHOTELS Malpensa – Via F. Turati, 84 – Cerro Maggiore (MI) Best Western Plus Hotel Galles – Piazza Lima, 2 • H2 Milano Scala – Via dell’Orso, 7 • F4 • OFF MAP Best Western St. George – Viale Tunisia, 9 • H3 Mini Hotel La Spezia – Via Spezia, 25 • OFF MAP UNAHOTELS Mediterraneo Milano– Via L. Muratori 14 • H6 Bianca Maria Palace Hotel – Viale Bianca Maria, 4 • H5 Mini Hotel Portello – Via G. Silva, 12 • B2 UNAHOTELS Scandinavia Milano – Via G.B. Fauché, 15 • C1 Bristol – Via D. Scarlatti, 32 • H2 Mini Hotel Tiziano – Via Tiziano, 6 • C4 UNAHOTELS The One Milano – Via Maastricht, 3 (San Donato) • OFF MAP Brunelleschi – Via F. Baracchini, 12 • F5 Monforte 27 – Corso Monforte, 27 • G4 UNAWAY Contessa Jolanda Hotel & Residence Milano – c-hotels Atlantic – Via N. Torriani, 24 • G2 Montebianco Mokinba – Via Monte Rosa, 90 • A2 Via G. Murat, 21 • OFF MAP Ca' Bianca Hotel Corte del Naviglio – Via Lodovico il Moro, 117 • OFF MAP Montenapoleone Suites – Via Santa Cecilia, 4 • G4 UNAWAY Linea Uno Hotel & Residence Milano – Camperio House Suite & Apartments – Via M. Camperio, 9 • E4 Mozart – Piazza Gerusalemme, 6 • D2 Viale Monza, 139 • OFF MAP Capitol World Class – Via D. Cimarosa, 6 • C4 My Bed Montenapoleone – Piazza San Babila, 3 • Map G4 UNAWAY Quark Due Hotel & Residence Milano – Carlyle Brera – Corso G. Garibaldi, 84 • E3 My Bed – Corso di Porta Ticinese, 24 • Map E5 Via Lampedusa, 11/3 • OFF MAP Vittoria – Via P. 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