TYROL If You Could Bottle Everything That Sums up Austria

TYROL 329 Kufstein © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Mayrhofen Innsbruck Ötztal Valley St Anton am Arlberg HIGHEST ELEVATION: WILDSPITZE 3774M HIGHEST ELEVATION: „ ( p348 ) ( p348 ) ( p337 ) in Harakiri Harakiri St Anton am St Anton am AREA: 10,626 SQ KM „ ( p354 ) in a rickety ) in a rickety p354 ( Kufstein Goldenes Dachl ( p362 ) ( p356 ) chairlift for awesome Wilder Kaiser views Austria’s steepest slope, the steepest Austria’s soaking Aqua Dome’s flying saucers in the in Ötztal with the après-ski crowd in Arlberg shimmering Innsbruck in Mayrhofen Quaking hurtling in your boots before down above Rising Revisiting the Neolithic world of Ötzi and Bopping in your snow boots to Europop upon the Strolling cobbled lanes to gaze POPULATION: 685,000 POPULATION:

„ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS „

There are plenty of reasons to fall for Tyrol: the people are down-to-earth, are to fall for Tyrol: the people and plenty of reasons sincere are There kind else the show in a ‘wow I’m in Austria’ and nowhere of way But it’s the Alps that steal by of the province Tyrol), is cut off from the rest Osttirol (East region, Tyrol’s eastern „ If you could bottle everything that sums up Austria surely Tyrol would be it: from the woodsy be it: from the woodsy Tyrol would surely up Austria that sums bottle everything If you could alpine peaks rising like food to the thigh-slapping tradition and log chalets and wholesome day, with a big sky places can match it on a winter’s ocean. Few shark fins in a frothy white dazzling snow crunching underfoot No above, and bracing mountain air filling your lungs. independent. Who wouldn’t be with all that? notoriously proud and wonder the locals are gems (overshadowed are marvellously and Kufstein eccentric; the cities such as Innsbruck the castles and medieval backstreets); with precipitous complete by frosty mountains and and new – a happy marriage of old the powder deep; and the culture schnapps is potent; spas and crystalline edifices. and cobbled alleyways to Zen-like shifting from rural farms Tyrol is a beauty with bumps and curves in all the accessible. prominent or they more are right places, with resorts where you can find your ski like Kitzbühel where legs, Mayrhofen you can get legless in après-ski where they’ll turn to jelly on black runs, and St Anton bars vales in summer, wobbling down the valley. When sunshine spills across the green before with windswept passes where, tramps over from gentle strolls to week-long walks stretch high-flyer. famous yet elusive any luck, you might spot an eagle: Tyrol’s most ). p323 ( chapter Region National Park in the Hohe Tauern and is covered Salzburg Tyrol TYROL 330 0 30 km TYROL 0 20 miles TYROL TYROL To Munich To Munich To Salzburg Kempten (München) (75km) (München) (65km) (30km)

G E R M A N Y

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Neuschwanstein Castle A12 Lofer To Bregenz KufsteinE60 (60km) Kai serg e Garmisch- bi rge Reutte Partenkirchen Achenkirch St Johann in Tirol

l I n n t a l Achensee Söll Going Kitzbüheler Horn e Inn River Wörgl (1996m) d n Zugspitze Perisau n e (2962m) Mittenwald Maurach Hopfgarten e 181 Kirchberg Kitzbühel p Ehrwald w Jenbach 312 l Reither Spitze Seefeld Spitze Hahnenkamm r Hafelekarspitz A (2374m) (2220m) a Schlitters (1655m) K (Hafelkarhaus; 2269m) Nassereith Seefeld r 314 Mösern A12 A Zell Seegrube Hall Schwaz Uderns e l e r l p e n e Ziller E60River h l (1905m) in Tirol b ü am See Kaltenbach z a S t t 177 i Thurn Pass161 h Innsbruck Ried K Imst Stams t Wattens e c Zirl n Aschau 169 L u Tulfes e p SALZBURG Stanz A12Roppen Ötz b Mutters Igls 171l Zell am Gerlos Salzach St Anton a (SALZBURGER LAND) VORARLBERG E60 a Ziller Krimml am Arlberg r Kitzsteinhorn i o Ramsau Krahberg V (3203m) Sanna River e Mayrhofen (2208m) r h e T St Christoph Landeck r e o a Umhausen u x 165 u ArlbergS16 Pass Kappl 186 T Z i l l e r t a l H Felber Tauern e Ö Ötztaler Ache A n r A13 Hintertux l Tunnel n 107 n t z t a l a Ginzling e a u l E45 r t p Grossvenediger Franz Josefs Höhe n Stubai p Steinach Olperer e m 315 S t u b a i t a l u x l (3674m) (2369m) a Glacier e (3476m) T A P a z n a u n t a l S Ischgl Inn River n 188 ὄBrenner Pass StauseeὈὈr Grossglockner e Pfunds I n n t a l (1374m) Schlegeis l Hochgebirgs-Naturpark (3797m)108 Galtür Hochsölden (1782m) a Zillertaler Alpen Matrei Heiligenblut Kaunertal t Sölden r in Osttirol e Zwieselstein l Bielerhöhe Samnaun Gaislachkogel i l CARINTHIA (3058m) Timmelsjoch Pass Hochgurgl Z Nauders Pass Obergurgl St Jakob EAST TYROL Wildspitze Timmelsjoch (OSTTIROL) Ö (3774m) n g e b i r g e t g e Reschen z e g t a e r Pass l n f Lienz e r A l p e Bruneck e (1508m) ὄ ὈὈ(Brunico) D A22

Drau lonelyplanet.com Sillian Toblach i e n z e r D o L l o m i t Brixen Obertilliach e n Merano (Bressanone) (Meran) K a r n i s c h e See Hohe Tauern National A l S W I T Z E R L A N D I T A L Y p Park Region Map (p311) e n is history. its velop asanorth–southtraderoute earlyin allowedtheregioncrossing intoItaly, tode- text, p357 Brenner). Thehigh Pass (1374m), boxed Alpsin1991(see in icetheÖtztal of a5500-year-old bodyof amanpreserved since theIronAge, verified bythediscovery experienced influxes of tribesandtravellers lonelyplanet.com the Winter Olympics. flourished andInnsbruck hastwicehosted tourism (particularly theskiindustry)has Tyrol hasenjoyed peaceandprosperity: proclaimed itsneutrality in1955.Sincethen, cupied byAlliedforcesuntilthe country of WWII,Tyrolwasdividedintozonesoc- invaded Austriain1938.Intheaftermath not claimbackSouthTyrolwhenhis troops province. the Tyrolwasisolated fromtherestand East of prosperous SouthTyrolwascededtoItaly further blowtothestrongTyroleanidentity; 20 February 1810. shot byfiringsquadonNapoleon’sorders on year. Hofer andwas continuedthestruggle, and Tyrolwasreturned toBavarialater that fortunately didnotsupporthisheroicstance ( Bergisel p336 ). TheHabsburg monarchy un- dependence, winningafamousvictoryat Andreas Hofer forin- ledasuccessful fight and troublesome;in1809localinnkeeper ruleofBavarian theprovince wasshort-lived handsunderNapoleon. intoBavarian passed the Brenner Pass before beingbeaten backby In alliancewiththeFrench, theyreached the Tyrol intheWarof theSpanishSuccession. directly ruled from Vienna. Franz, diedin1665theduchy of Tyrolwas last TyroleanHabsburg, Archduke Sigmund militia) which stillexiststoday.Whenthe creating thecelebrated fence over totheTyroleansthemselves, thus theborderde- islation in1511thatpassed centre. He leg- alsodrew uptheLandibell into theadministrative andacultural capital the region’s andtransformedthetown status ahead. Hissoft spotforInnsbruckboosted (r 1490–1519)thattheprovince trulyforged wasn’t untiltheruleof EmperorMaximilian I alpineterrain,Despite Tyrolhas itsdifficult History A staunchallyof Mussolini, Hitlerdid The Treaty of (1919)dealt a StGermain In 1703theBavariansattempted tocapture Tyrol fell totheHabsburgs in1363,butit Schützen . Butjustacenturylater Tyrol TYROL ••Innsbruck TYROL Schützen (marksmen its prosperity andworld-class museums, past andpresent, urbanandnatural. Despite as abackdrop,Innsbruck successfullyblends quietly confident air andthetoweringAlps side lounge bars. Withitslow-slungskyline, creations andsippingsundowners inriver- Hadid’sthe afternoon spacey oglingZaha lanesandHabsburgmedieval palaces, and where youcanspendthemorningroaming Tyrol’s isachameleon-likecapital city:aplace % INNSBRUCK p343. see for all12 regions. Innsbruck is anexception; or€61/196.10€29/91.80 perweek/month Apassforindividualregionspasses). costs vidually covered by lapping transportregions, which are indi- trains. railway) tramsandÖBB(Austrianfederalon buses, citizens andfamilies.Tickets cover journeys There are reductions forchildren, senior costs €1.70andit’s€3.40foradaypass. of zonesyoutravel asingleticket through; noon Fri) .vvt.at; Innrain25,Innsbruck; the Regional transportcomesunderthewingof Getting Around Brenner Pass directly south of Innsbruck. crossingthe A13 connectsTyrolwithItaly, exiting westof StAntoninVorarlberg. The nearKufsteinentering and from Germany cutting theprovince intoalmostequalhalves, (Inn River), withtheeast–westA12autobahn route inand outof TyrolfollowstheInntal operate toInnsbruck.Themainroadandrail Frequent international andnationalflights Getting There&Away downfrom sweeps the mountains. no endbythe the temperatures are surprisinglymild,helped winters andchangeable weather. Inthevalleys ince’s climate, withshortsummers, longcold theAlpsrulemuchmountains, of theprov- With almost90%of Tyrol given over to Climate UEFA Euro Championships. asitgearson theTyroleancapital, upfor the Additionally, Tyrolisdividedinto12over- In 2008,alleyesare onceagainfocused 0512 /pop117,000 Verkehrsverbund Tirol Verkehrsverbund . Ticket pricesdependonthenumber Föhn, awarmsouthwindthat Regio Ticket h

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331 TYROL TYROL TYROL is closed to is closed private transport. whichStrasse, isamajor thoroughfare but connectswithMaria-Theresien-Strasse, artery inthe pedestrianed justa10-minutetrain station) walk fromthe is compact,withthe walking andskiingopportunities.The centre cilities radiatingfromthecityprovide superb Extensive transportfa- mountains. mountain Alps andthesouthernTuxer Vorberge thenorthernKarwendel between squeezed Innsbruck sitsintheInnValley, scenically Orientation in 1964 and 1976. national stage –itheldtheWinter Olympics as awinter sportscentre reached theinter- the centuries.More recently, itsimportance has enjoyedafairlypeacefulexistence over (p334). Hofburg the Theresia Schloss Ambras( p335 ) andEmpress Maria Archduke Ferdinand IIreconstructed the fluence thecity’sarchitectural skyline: milian wasnottheonlyHabsburg toin- Dachl ( p337 ), are stillvisibletoday.Maxi- ments, includingtheshimmeringGoldenes in powerandprestige; manyof themonu- (r 1490–1519)thatthecityreached itszenith under thereign of EmperorMaximilian I of theTyroleanHabsburgs,seat butitwas name –Ynsprugg. a newbridge thatgave its thesettlement the InnRiver spread tothesouthbankvia tle market onthenorthbankof settlement History onIgls’ speeds bobsled run. down Nordpark’sslopesorpickupsupersonic (nightlife), you’llhave energy towhoosh you don’toverindulge onthe gardens andfunkybars after dark.Providing a youthfulcitythatpulsatesinbrewpubs, beer third-largest studentpopulation,Innsbruckis still knowshowtorock;homeAustria’s snapshot. Andthis oldmanof themountain ing inglassfaçadesandsneakingintoevery tions: creeping uponstreet corners, reflect- the Alpsare attrac- Innsbruck’smonumental friendly. and the cityremains refreshingly unpretentious 332 Innsbruck dates from1180,whenthelit- In 1420Innsbruckbecametheducal Suspended above thedeep-green InnRiver, Aside fromthetwoworldwars, Innsbruck YO • Inbuk ••Innsbruck TYROL Altstadt Altstadt, (oldtown).The main Hauptbahnhof Herzog-Friedrich- Nachtleben (main

internet accessfor€6 per hour. (Map p333 with laundries Strasse1)Self-service ; Brixner Andreas Hofer collection of collection English books. 4)Universitybookshopwithasizeable Museumstrasse h free internet access. h English literature. of 15) Stockstravelguidebooksandadecentselection 11pm) Cheapphonecalls as well. % Bubble Point LAUNDRY Telesystem TelephoneInternational Discount ACCESSINTERNET Buchhandlung Wagnerische Tyrolia &Berndt Freytag p334). (Map Strasse andHerzog-Friedrich-corner of Riesengasse onthe be foundatahandynewspaperstand The bestsourceof international papers can BOOKSHOPS Information Smaller office inthemaintrain station. Hauptbahnhof inquiries. Above InnsbruckInformation, itmostlyfieldstelephone Burggraben 3; .innsbruck.info; City Tourist Board TOURIST INFORMATION Post office h postoffice Main POST (ATMs) are ubiquitousin the have exchange facilitiesand The MONEY Landeskrankenhaus MEDICAL SERVICES Sat) Excellentsourceformapsand travel books. Strasse 15; main hospitalhasemergency services. 35) The Hauptbahnhof Thissecond postofficeishandytothe 5pm Mon-Fri) 8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-8pmSat&Sun; 8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pmSat)Eightterminalswith 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 562 921;Südtirolerplatz1;perhr€2.50; 7am-9pm Mon-Fri, 7am-3pmSat,10am-7.30pm 7am-9pm Mon-Fri, Sun) Hauptbahnhof Universitätklinik (Map (Map p334 ; h (Map (Map p333 Strasse1; ; Brunecker (Map (Map p333 ; Andreas-Hofer-Strasse 37); (Map (Map p333 ; . ( 9am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon 9am-1pm &2-6pmMon-Fri, % (Map (Map p333 ; (Map (Map p333 2; ; Maximilianstrasse (Map (Map p333 ; % 56500-0750; soap&wash€4; (Map (Map p334 ; (Map (Map p333 ; (UniversityClinic)atthecity’s 22 33-0;Maria-Theresien-Strasse andInnsbruckInformation % 931 093; Rathaus Galerien; Galerien; 931 093;Rathaus % h % (Map (Map p334 ; % 583 766; 8am-6pm Mon-Fri) 8am-6pm Mon-Fri) 572 430;Wilhelm-Greil- % 59 85-0;www lonelyplanet.com (Map (Map p333 ; 50 40;Anichstrasse Altstadt Bankomaten h h h % i 9am-7pm) 9am- 7am- 595 05; ) . Brixner

lonelyplanet.com Innsbruck Kranebitten(5km) University A13 (2km) To A12(1km); To Airport(4km);Camping

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cultural history. It kicksoff withgeologi- FERDINANDEUM FERDINANDEUM lonelyplanet.com much-loved historicalfigure, Andreas Hofer. butmostly concentrates onTyrol’s houses, that madeHall power- and Schwaz medieval cal andmineralhistory, includingthesilver May) adult/child €8/4; Zeughaus Emperor Maximilian’s formerarsenal,the ZEUGHAUS p52 ). (see ings fromthelikes of KlimtandKokoschka andfamouspaint- pieces, Gothicaltarpieces include broodingDutch andFlemishmaster- gious worksandpewter creations. Highlights fromBronzeAgeeverything findstoreli- h 15;adult/child€8/4; Museumstrasse museum.at, inGerman; this A treasure- trove of Tyroleanhistoryandart, tiled oven. low-ceiling, woodpanellingandantique Gothic masks andcowbells.Onthe1stflooris sleighs andChristmascribstocarnival tire spectrum of folkart,fromhandcarved rambling atticof covers amuseum theen- Map p334 ; adult/child€5/1.50) nip intothe is alsoentombedin the church. Tyrolean heroAndreas Hofer (1767–1810) apparently Maximilian’s biggest idol. TRLR LANDESMUSEUM TIROLER For an insight intoTyroleancraftwork,For aninsight Information fordetails. from JunetoSeptember; Innsbruck contact you tojointhefree guidedmountainwalks andadmissionfees.portation Italsoentitles accommodation, gives discountsontrans- Club InnsbruckCard, availablefromyour costs €24/29/34for24/48/72hours. able fromInnsbruckInformation(left)and including theSightseer(see p338 ). It’savail- cable carsandfree useofpublictransport ajourneyontheof themainattractions, bruck Card, whichallowsonevisittomost To save onentryfees, invest intheInns- INNSBRUCK CARD 10am-6pm Jun-Sep, closed MonOct-May) 10am-6pm Jun-Sep, runschronologically Tyrol’s through museum Free tothoseovernighting intown,the Stube

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kitchen, laundry, TV roomandbike rental. kitchen, laundry,TV comfy andtheexcellentamenities include a this hostel’s ’70sfaçade. Dormsare cleanand not beapretty face,butdon’tbeputoff by tel doesn’t havetel doesn’t asmany facilitiesasthe sportsfields,thisHIhos- Overlooking www.volkshaus.at; 47;dm€16.10-21.60) Radetzkystrasse the bookings for you. €40; InnsbruckInformation( p334 ) canmake offer €20and private roomsthatcostbetween Innsbruck andthevillages of IglsandMutters tions andbars. Aside fromtheoptionsbelow, of attrac- distance within staggering thestar and boutiquehotels cluster inthe Most of Innsbruck’s budget digs,guesthouses Sleeping November andrununtil 24 December. Markets Christmas and processions;theever-popular Celebrations .at, inGerman) InnsbruckSummerDance Festival Dom and St (p342) Jakob ( Landestheater left ). the ( p334), August atvenues such asSchloss Ambras ries of baroqueconcertsstaged inJulyand der AltenMusik; ebrating the For three decades cel- Innsbruck has been Festivals &Events tickets.Innsbruck Informationsells day passcosts€8.80/6.20foradults/children. from 10amto6pmNovember toApril.A cent and staff welcoming. Takecent and staff busRfrom city’s otherhostels, butthe roomsare de- pulls Museumstrasse up outside. It’s 2kmnortheastof the 147; 6-/4-beddm€15.50/18,s/d€33/50; Reichenauerstrasse 179; www.jugendherberge-innsbruck.at; playground. and centre adoddle. There’s anonsite restaurant tomake enough reachingfeel, butclose the fromInnsbrucktohavefar enough arural thistree-shadedby mountains, campsite is h campsites peradult/child/car/tent€5.40/3.50/3.40/3.40; KranebitterAllee214; 180; www.campinginnsbruck.com; InnsbruckKranebitten Camping BUDGET BUDGET Volkshaus Innsbruck Innsbruck Jugendherberge Other bigbashesinthiscity includethe Apr-Oct; Apr-Oct; p , which includeconcerts,markets , heldinJuneandJuly; % ) Festival ofEarlyMusic Westof townandflanked Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels 571 032;www.altemusik.at) , which springtolife inmid-

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century townhouse isTyrol’sanswertocentury townhouse Innstrasse1;s/d€39/67; bruecke.at; Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels Spa access costs €9. loft suite hasatrampoline-sized waterbed. to all-white withteak floors; thespacious designed roomsrange fromSmartieshades loads of snazzy artfeatures. The individually beauty withwi-firior hidesthissleeping and Just eastof the .at; DrGlatzstrasse20;s€59-130d€78-150; location. riverfront you can’targue with thepriceandsuperb andanold-fashioned air.centric staff But Fawlty Towers withratherdated rooms,ec- Innbrücke MIDRANGE city. the towards thezooandhasgreat across vistas rooms (mostwithbalcony).It’supthehill alpine chalet andhassuper-clean, homely district, thisfamily-runpensionoccupiesan above InnsbruckinthequietStNikolaus paula.at; Weiherburggasse15;s/d€36/58; coffee. roasted homemade bread, jam,pastriesandfreshly Munding( fast inCafé p342 ) nextdoorwith and CDplayers. Wake uptoadeliciousbreak- with littletouches frompotplantstobooks high-ceilinged dormshave bagsof charm extras like free cocoainthekitchen. The centraldigswelcomeyouwithhomy these pretty Thesmileysisters darn close. that run be backpacker heaven? Nepomukscomes gasse 16;www.nepomuks.at; dm/d€21/52) the the Binders Hotel Pension Paula o good-guy stufftoSanta.good-guy slurring after onetoomanyschnapps;after all,thedevilisallowedtomisbehave andleave the wide excuseforabooze-up, soeveryone ishappy.Bynightfall,it’snotunusualtosee excitement screaming atthetopoftheirlungsandgrown-upsseeevent asavillage- cross theirpath(thesmaller,thebetter…). The little‘unsgettoletoutallthatpre-Christmas flits throughthestreets inthe Krampuslaufen parade. hiswhipashe maskisouttheregrotesquely carved silly–growlingandcracking toscare kids nitely thebaddie;instead ofdishingoutsweets,thisdevilishcharacter inashaggycostumeand the eve ofStNicholas. Butifol’StNickisthegoodie,meanandmenacing The goat-horned andhairy DEVIL INDISGUISE Altstadt Hauptbahnhof. As ifoneweren’t enough,around70ghoulish

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Krampusse .com; Bichlweg2;s/d€80/123; €18) has a meaty menu. that therestaurantno surprise (mains€7to linen. Theowner isakeen hunter, soit’s blonde wood,fresh hues and crispwhite to spaciousrooms recently revamped with Thevaultedguesthouse. entranceleadsup ing horse greets you atthis600-year-old 8;s/d€90/130; Kiebachgasse accessible. of the spotlessroomsare fullywheelchair elled restaurant spa. Three andmosaic-tiled feel andcomescomplete withawood-pan- Ambras, thischalet-style hotel hasacountry quil enclave 10minutes’ walkfromSchloss bathrooms glittering like a sky. night lows give waytoSwarovski crystal-studded hut. Roomspainted inbluesandsunnyyel- ina15th-centuryfisherman’shotel, housed moon beamsdownasyouenter thisriverside 6;s€75-95,d€115-140; .at; Mariahilfstrasse rustic restaurant (mains€9.50 to €22.50). Goldenes Dachl, acavernous winecellaranda its pluspointsare many:primeviewsof the style roomscoulddowithalickof paint,but Happ exudesold-worldatmosphere. The’70s- 14;s/d€72/88; haus-happ.at; Herzog-Friedrich-Strasse wood and floral trimmings. rooms are country-stylewithchunky pine- to theantique-filled reception. Thespotless Creaking up stairs passatricklingfountain 500 years, includinga13-year-old Mozart. Altstadt pi 31;s/d€62/108; .weisseskreuz.at; Herzog-Friedrich-Strasse Weisses Rössl Bierwirt Weinhaus Happ WeissesKreuz Hotel Mondschein ) Beneath thearcades,thisatmospheric Beneath turnouttomenaceanyonewhodares hotel hasplayedhosttoguestsfor

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) TYROL TYROL TYROL terrace isafavourite spot in summer. dishes.Thesunny andhealthy pasta salads has agreat buzz,alongsidehuge pizzas, fresh €5-8; Mia Mamma RESTAURANTS bust the budget. you wantthem,buteatingouthere needn’t snack-bar grub. There are gourmethaunts if tofiery curriesandcheapwith afriedegg) Tyrolean fromsteaminging upeverything plates of trattoriasandpavementtaurants, cafés,dish- Innsbruck’s Eating list of famous past guests. and Her Majesty ElizabethIItopthe Queen wallpaper andruby-red carpets.MickJagger Biedermeier roomsare decorated withstripy elves spenttheentire polishingit.The night hotel’s star marblelobbygleamsasthough pi .com; SüdtirolerPlatz2;s€145-185,d€204-264,ste€324-424; with high exotic fruits. fittings. Atbreakfast, ispiled awholetable andshinychrome screens, flat-screen TVs muted huesare glammedupwithiridescent Galerien.Theminimalistroomsin Rathaus is acontemporary designhotel nexttothe 240; Adolf-Pichler-Platz.com, inGerman; 3;s€135-190,d€180- and fountains crystal Qigong treatments. a solidmarblebed!Thespaisstunningwith gold oneiswhere Versace oncesnoozed in ter withSwarovski theblack-and- crystals; Material Girl spin inthewhite limofeatured inMadonna’s ticularly ifyourbankbalancestretches toa hotel isarguably thetopdogintown,par- up honeymooners…This romanticboutique €145-220, ste€260-480; 109; www.deradler.com; 2;s€103-162,d Kaiserjägerstrasse and squeaky-clean marble bathrooms. Trapp. Roomsare elegantwithgolddrapes two biggest exports:MozartandMrs Von andSalzburg’shas welcomedkings,queens opening in1390,thegrandGoldenerAdler adler.com; 6;s/d€87/128; Herzog-Friedrich-Strasse Goldener Adler TOP END 340 The Penz Hotel The Adler Schwarzer Romantik Hotel Europa Tyrol Europa p h YO • Inbuk ••Innsbruck TYROL ) ) Facing the Behind a sheer wallof glass,thePenz Behind lunch &dinner) Gröstl

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thisfive- p Since % ) 587 fet Mon-Fri €7,mainsabout€9; fet Mon-Fri vgtra dishes. vegetarian tempt and you inforscrummytandoori wafting fromSahib’shumbledoorwayshould h lamb stew and dumplings. fare –try tender orhearty veal withsauerkraut sourced producetorustleupclassicTyrolean Goldenes Dachl, thissnugtavern locally uses Hofgasse 1;mains€7-18; on the menu. wines,antipastiandfreshwith Italian fish door, SoloVinohasamore upmarket feel Nextwith itshipvibeandyummypasta. ceilinged spaghetteria drawsayoungcrowd 15b; mains€7-18; tucked downan Huhn erous portionsof chop sueyand bothchopsticks thegen-You’ll need totackle breast onartichokes and nectarines. walls are asappetisingflavours like duck ramic viewsover glass Innsbruckthrough Galerien.Thepano- 7th floorof theRathaus Elegant simplicitysumsupLichtblick onthe lunch €6.50-12,setmenu€32-42; bar for after-dinner caipirnhas. jumbo steaks andjambalaya, andaCaribbean wacky partyhaunt hasamenupacked with it, Papa isasnippet of Joe’s Mexico. This Toucans, waterfalls, palms, sharks…you name mains €11-16; are garnishedwith delicate orchids. and teak floors. Thenoodleandcurry dishes open-plan restaurant withpillar-box red walls cook upastormintheshowkitchen atthis mains €10-20; and worldflavours, fromschnitzel to chilli. the Inn.Themenuisamixed bagof Austrian restaurant hasahuge terrace onthebanksof €8-17; concerts every Wednesday. second andaglassoftapas Rioja. free Catch flamenco Spanish baristheplacetoorderaplate of tasty vibe andlate-night nibbles,thisriverside €8.40-12.60; Papa Joe’s Thai-Li-Ba Cammerlander Lichtblick SoloPasta Tapabar Sahib GoldenesDachl Gasthaus Lotos lunch &dinner) h (crazychicken) haunt, atthisChinese

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TYROL TYROL TYROL % h .landestheater.at, €3-38; 2;tickets Rennweg inGerman; include all-daybreakfasts andwarming town atthiscoolcafé.Menu favourites lively vibeandthebesthotchocolate in Museumstrasse 31; Museumstrasse €6-8) tickets tent appeals–600 types of liqueur. and –ifsomethingmoreoils, preserves po- goodies, thisvine-clad shop stockshoneys, 9am-3pm Sat) tasty local specialities. jewelleryand Tyrolean crafts,glitzycrystal ping fix;here youcanspendonhandmade blestone streets of the Maria- Theresien-Strasse, thenarrowcob- Shopping ; p333 (Map their originallanguage headto cheapest rate. Forindependentfilmsshown in areon Monday,whenallseats soldatthe to drama and comedy. performances rangingfromoperaandballet Sun) ofseries classical concerts in summer. in variousvenues. Schloss Ambrashostsa symphony orchestra thatperformsregularly but iseasytonavigate. Thecityhasitsown and exhibitions;it’smostlyinGerman events a helpfulmonthlyguidetothecity’skey Innsbruck Information( p334 Entertainment ) produces picked from local farms. withfruitfreshlycoffee andmake preserves Mundingzopf well aswhippingupdeliciouscakes –trythe 200-year-old caféacontemporary kick.As |coffee €2-4; naughty-but-very-nice cakes. withchandeliers,fee house ceilingsand high newspapers cof- rustleinthisViennese-style fee €2-4; soup. carrot-mango Strasse 16;snacks€4-8; Katzung Café CAFÉS 342 Rathaus Galerienprovide aquickshop-Rathaus 9am-midnight Sun) Café Munding Munding Café Central Café Spezialitäten ausderStiftsgasse Spezialitäten Landestheater Cinemas aroundtownoffer aspecialdeal Tyrol’s seminal theatre Tyrol’sseminal stages year-round 576 580; Stiftsgasse 3; 576 580;Stiftsgasse ticket office8.30am-8.30pmMon-Sat,5.30-8.30pm ticket YO • Inbuk ••Innsbruck TYROL h % h 7.30am-11pm) An Aladdin’scave of homemade

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% , 4kmtothe 225 25-0;www % % tohand- 582 320; High- 573 100; h % 9am- 579 If bike hire shops: about €15 per day. bikes for€16/20per bikes half/full day. h south) andatHötting(to the west). pull upattheWestbahnhof (actuallytothe somelocaltrainsalso venient though station, The TRAIN lonelyplanet.com available from tively). Tickets inadvance,which are bought are alsoavailable (€10.70 and€36.20,respec- ticket andmonthlytickets (€3.40).Weekly quently you’re better offbuying a 24-hour thecity’spublictransport fre-plan touse (from thedriver; validupon issue), butifyou Single tickets andtramscost€1.60 onbuses PUBLIC TRANSPORT Neuner Hertz Denzeldrive Avis the oneunder pavement Parking dispensers. garages (such as 30/60/90 minutes; tickets are available from shop hours). Thecharge is€0.50/1/1.50for three hours times(approximately duringset areaswithin these foramaximumof 1½or ing, indicated byablueline. Youcanpark Most of centralInnsbruckhasrestricted park- CAR &BICYCLE for the trip. same charge (€1.70);taxis Strasse about€8to€10 15or20minutesevery from Maria-Theresien- The airport bybusF. isserved depart Buses TO/FROM THEAIRPORT Getting Around take thelongwayround via Salzburgerland. whileothershours); Italy somepassthrough daily trainsheadforLienz(€20,three tofive twohoursevery (€13.20,onehour)whilesix toKitzbühel alsorun hours). Direct services (€33.80, twohours) andVerona (€40,3½ Munich train. Two-hourlyexpress trainsserve the bestviewsare sideof ontheright-hand the two hours). FromInnsbrucktotheArlberg, Bregenz (€28,2¾hours) andSalzburg (€33.80, h h h Fast twohours trainsdailydepartevery for Innsbruck’s major car rental agencies and 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Rents mountain 9am-noon Sat)Rents 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Mon-Fri) 7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm 7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, Sat) 7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm 7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, Sat) (Map (Map p333 ; Hauptbahnhof (Map (Map p333 ; (Map (Map p333 ; (Map (Map p333 ; % % AROUNDINNSBRUCK••HallinTirol % Tabak 571 754;SalurnerStrasse15; 580 901;SüdtirolerPlatz1; Altstadt 561 501; Maximilianstrasse 23; 561 501;Maximilianstrasse isInnsbruck’smostcon- % (tobacconist) shops, 582 060;SalurnerStrasse8; ) will set youback ) willset machines at the start ofmachines at thestart the journey. you reach theivy-clad be visited on a tour. the town’shistory of miningandcan only salt €3.50/2; the small often locked. NotfarfromtheDamenstift is tower; unfortunately theconvent’s church is vent foundedin1557and gracedbyabaroque is both repulsive and enthralling. reminiscent of spiked thewholeeffect haloes; capped withveils andelaborate headdresses, rests Each saints. onembroidered cushions, 12 bones,picked fromtheremains of minor Waldauf’s grislycollectionof 45skullsand isthe light free; 13th-century Directly acrossthesquare, thespire of the plete withcrenated edges crests. and mosaic Rathaus Bordering thissquare isthe15th-century All streets leadtotheOberer Stadtplatz. Sights &Activities guided the town’sattractions.Theyalsoorganise daily 9am-5pm Sat) Wallpachgasse5; .at, inGerman; atthe Staff Information turns to wine… the WildenMannes miraculously fountain festival watch asthewater inSeptember, in and silver. Ifyou’re intownforthe this smalltowngrew fatontheriches of salt lot haschanged sincethe15thcenturywhen lanes litbylanterns reveal thatnotanawful andcobblestonedwarp: slimtownhouses Innsbruck, Hall time- inamedieval iscaught Nestled theAlps,just9kmeastofbeneath % HALL INTIROL AROUND INNSBRUCK call For ataxi TAXI h Kundenbüro Information Innsbruck(p334)andthe Stepping southof centre, themedieval A few pacesawayisthe 7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri) 05223 /pop12,000 h

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in Schlitters, 6km fromJenbach. Itstocks still tuneinto traditional place,where down-to-earthlocals extra pairof It’sanextremely lederhosen. is oneplaceyou’llbegladyoupacked that River. As wellasskisorwalkingboots,this of snowypeaksandthe meanderingZiller vistas limestone spires, glimpsed affording broad valley,passingfertile farmlandand Tyrol. Asteam trainchugs the through (Ziller Valley) picture-postcard epitomises and theKitzbühelerAlpen, Zillertal Sandwiched theTuxer between Voralpen THE ZILLERTAL NORTHEASTERN TYROL utes), both in Germany. Garmisch-Partenkirchen (€11.80,55min- (€3.80, 20minutes) twohours every and utes, 13daily).TrainsruntoMittenwald you sitontheleftof abus(€4.50,35min- views acrossthewholevalley,especiallyif departing Innsbruck,providing spectacular climbingsoonafterZirl. Thetrackstarts sharplynear untilitrises follows theInntal off theGermany-bound Hwy177.Theroad is25kmnorthwestof Innsbruck,just Seefeld Getting There&Away bars mentioned below. cludes manyof thehotels, restaurants and early November tomid-December. Thisin- usuallyearlyApriltolate Juneand seasons, Gästekarte Wherever inquire youstay, about theresort’s there are dozensof optionsineach resort. somewhere (theyusuallywon’tcharge), as forhelpinfinding atthetouristoffices staff Askholiday apartmentsorfarmhouses. are inchalet-style pensions, private rooms, Uderns, 12kmsouthof Jenbach. Mostbeds .de.htm; Finsingerhof, Finsing 73;dm€17; ( the valleyandthere isayear-round tially in English) magazine. along withthe plenty of informationonoutdooractivities, 8.30am-noon Sat) 87; www.zillertal.at; office, butthemain celebrate theirheritage with gusto. % Note that many places close betweenNote thatmanyplaces close Four campinggroundsare situated in resortPractically every hasitsowntourist 05288-620 10;www.hihostels.com/dba/hostel004079 (guest card). covering thewholevalleyis Alpen Rock Zillertaler Gästezeitung Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels h 8.30am-noon & 1-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-noon &1-5.30pmMon-Fri, tourist office tourist (alpinerock)and (

% 05288-871 p HI hostel (par- ) at

cars andentryto swimming pools. journey perdayonanyof cable theZillertal €126 fortheminimumfourdays,or€139.50 ers at all150-oddliftsinthevalley;itstarts elsewhere. Superskipass TheZillertaler cov- but there isdownhillandcross-countryskiing Mayrhofen isaprimespotforserious Activities lonelyplanet.com it runstwice dailyyear-round (10.47am and a Mayrhofen. to bahn.at) line, the byaprivate train isserviced The Zillertal Getting There&Away winter shovelling cow dung. their sorrowsattheprospectof anotherharsh of schnapps forfarmers thatwanttodrown kets, bandsblastingoutfolkmusicandplenty of aparty;merrymakinginvolves foodmar- forabit asanexcuse theevent The localssee SaturdaysinOctober inMayrhofen.second amZillerandonthefirst and October inZell The paradetakes placeonthefirst Sundayin ral headdresses, garlandsandtinklingbells. pasturesthe high adornedwithelaborate flo- the celebrates theZillertal From late September, Festivals &Events for stretches.certain good forfishing, but permitsare onlyvalid arecling. TheZilleranditstributaries also rafting, rockclimbing,paraglidingandcy- €39.80/54.80/68.80) the value-for-money JuneandOctober,in thevalleybetween you’re ormore planningonspendingaweek Alpen &TuxerVoralpen the entire region istheKompass walkingmapcoveringthe valley.Adetailed only)listsallthehutsin booklet (German handy of around1800mbeckonwearyhikers; the hutsatelevations Mountain and Ramsau. the resorts of Ried,Kaltenbach, Aschau, Zell Tuxer Voralpen,butpaths alsofanout from inthe of Höhenstrasse trailsistheZillertaler excellent resorts. the for fouroutof connect sixdays.Skibuses Dampfzug Other adrenaline-based activitiesinclude Those withathirst can takeThose fornostalgia In summer,the alpine valley morphs into Almabtrieb Almabtrieb , which travels the 32kmfromJenbach Hütten-, Ausflugs-&Erlebnisführer Zillertalbahn walking (steam train) alongthevalley; , where cowsare leddownfrom covers publictransport,one NORTHEASTERN TYROL ••Zell amZiller TYROL NORTHEASTERN territory. Afamousnetwork (

% Zillertal Card Zillertal 05244-606-0; www.zillertal (scale1:50,000).If

(6/9/12 days Zillertaler skiing

, the train station. gliding are idealfor aroundZell mountains the tourist office. firms offer at similardeals;askfordetails rival 500m to2300m(€55 to€130).Several Freizeitpark Zell) ( emus and llamas. where kidscancomeface-to-face withdeer, stration andavisittotheanimalenclosure, entry pricecovers demon- acheese-making road. The ontheGerlos 2km eastof Zell h Hainzenberg73;adult/child€10/5; inGerman; bergwerk.com, not sign onthedoorissues awarningthatitis church, butyoudoso atyourownrisk–a of insidethe Youcanpeek filigree crosses. above thevillage andissurroundedbyasea Pfarrkirche The slender spire of thepink-and-white Sights &Activities post office, withbusstopsat the rear. the area. At theotherendof Dorfplatzisthe walking, skiingandadventure activitiesin train tracksisamineof informationon 3a; The Orientation &Information Tauern NationalPark ( p317 ). Passup theGerlos toKrimmlintheHohe types, whocometohike inthehillsorpedal lit toboggan run.Warmweatherlures active 160km of pistes andathrilling7.5kmflood- traditionallittlevillage,and deeply hometo sparkle andmore swooshaboutthisrural former gold-miningcentre. There’s now less Reichenspitze (3303m), Zell am Zillerisa Scenically located at the footof knife-edge % ZELL AMZILLER €5.90. costs to take the you justwanttoget fromAtoB,it’sbetter orMayrhofen.one waytoeitherZell If the laststop,Mayrhofen, andcosts€10.70 3.16pm). Ittakes about85minutes toreach % Aside from trekking andskiing,the Goldbergbau Abenteuer Bicycles h 9am-5pm) 05282 /pop1840 a museum! 0664-87 25 913; www.fly-zillertal.com, inGerman; 0664-87 25913;www.fly-zillertal.com, tourist office tourist 8.30am-12.30pm &2.30-6pmMon-Fri) . Paragliding specialist (half/fullday€8/12)

(parish church;admissionfree; (parish isatwo-hourtourof agoldmine Triebwagen offers piloted tripsdescending

( % 22 81; www.zell.at; Dorfplatz Dorfplatz 22 81;www.zell.at;

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TYROL TYROL TYROL strasse 3) fest.at, inGerman) German; Gerlosberg 23;s/d€23/40) Gerlosberg German; first weekend inMay, andparticipantsshow .at; Gerlosstrasse 33;campsitesperadult/child/tent.at; Gerlosstrasse is the start of Passis thestart theGerlos route tothe cheaper amZiller thanthe steam train. Zell utes) andJenbach (€5.20,45minutes) are Normal trainsto Mayrhofen (€2.20,12min- Getting There& Away fresh andenjoya mussels few drinks. summer, thegardenisafavourite spottoeat In pizzas andaprès-skiduringtheskiseason. zas €7-10; will letyouborrowbikes free of charge. after adayontheslopesandMrs Brindlinger ispopular views.Thesauna ing mountain plenty of pine,ragrugsandbalconies afford- a quietlane,thischalet roomswith hasbright 4;s/d€26/52; aon.at; Gaudergasse and donkey, Julius. skiing. Kidslove theresident potbellied pigs isperfectlyfarmhouse located forhikingand village (callahead).Openyear-round, the giveham andwilleven youaliftfromthe his owngentian schnapps, smokes hisown the skinof thefarmermakes theZillertal: chocolate-box chalet isthe placetoslipunder the guesthouse. it,checkroughing outthewell-kept roomsin grill area andheated pool.Ifyoudon’tfancy first-rate facilitiesincludingaplayground, happy campers, thistree-shaded site offers €6.60/4.20/6.80, guesthouses/d€21/42; in the winter season. areZellbergeben. Rates around30%higher modation, withmanywestof theriver in isdotted with chaletsZell offering accom- Sleeping &Eating tumes) andwrestling take place on Sunday. procession (participantswearhistoricalcos- dancing anddrinkingheavily. Thelavish main rural skills:playingmusic, long-established off brewed speciallyforthe Gauderbier (reputedly over 10%alcohol) recommended after abellyfulof super-strong Wafting aroundonhot-aircurrents isnot Festivals &Events 348 Camping Hofer Camping Café Reiter imPark Reiter Café Brindlinger Gästehaus o Self-caterers canheadtothe Self-caterers OTESENTRL • aroe ••Mayrhofen TYROL NORTHEASTERN supermarket h Enzianhof dinner) . Thefestival takes placeonthe Reiter serves upenormous Reiter serves

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(Bahnhof- Fullof ) 6pm) For afly-on-the-walltourof a working dairy, Sights Alps anda24-hour accommodation board. handy topographicmodelof thesurrounding A-Z; the resort; lookforthecomprehensive Sun) Europahaus; The Orientation &Information an incredibly cool igloo. boots withthebestof theminslickbars and to après-ski,thisresort canstrutinitssnow Alps.Andwhenitcomes the frosted Zillertal of cruisingandkamikazeintheshadowof some of Austria’sfinest:adoublewhammy winter. TheskiingatAhornandPenken is Butitdancestoadifferenttains. tunein lakes intothemoun- andtrailstwistinghigh summer withitsalpinedairies,glass-clear Mayrhofen canfeel like village asleepy in % MAYRHOFEN hours, hourly)require achange at Jenbach. one to 1½ hours). uptofour timesdaily(€4.50, to September Krimml Falls; thepassfromJuly tackle buses for oneday. Awelcomenewcomer forskiers Penken-Horberg (157kmof piste), costs€36 local skipass,valid forskiliftsonAhornand at half-pipe in theirelement on thekickers, boxes and 78% gradient.Snowboarders, meanwhile, are Austria’s steepest piste withaknee-trembling some runsincludingthemogul-free Mayrhofen’s ski region offers somefear- Activities soup). cream specialities like best tilllast:the that isvirtuallyfat-free. Thedairyleaves the amouldygrey andGraukäse, cheese Bergkäse The finalproductsare huge of wheels Tilsiter, creamy baths. milktocheese ripeninginsalt steppingprocesses, fromcoppervatsfullof glass-walled walkwayreveals cheese-making free; 116; admissionwith/withouttasting€10.90/5.80,under12yr head tothe Trains toandfromInnsbruck(€10.20,1½ 05285 /pop3900 stocksloadsof informationandmapson h where you cansavour localcheese-rich it’sfree andwritten inEnglish. There isa tourist office tourist 10-11.30am &12.30-3pm,closedNov–mid-Dec) h Erlebnis Sennerei Erlebnis Sennerei Burton Park Burton 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pmSat,9am-noon 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, Graukasrahmsuppe Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels restaurant

( % 676 00;www.mayrhofen.at; inthePenken area. A

(mains €7-14; (

% 639 06-0;Hollenzen (Graukäse (Graukäse h Harakiri Info von 10am- . A , in itself, glidingabovein itself, facesanda sheer cliff Hintertuxer Gletscher cablecarisanattraction round skiing on the 160 passengers in each gondola. is thespeedy Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels après-ski. Expect 24-hourbars, après-ski. Expect club nights, the slopes,butmany justcomeforthecrazy of theworld’s topboarders battleitouton the resort for a Some knees-up. week-long descend on in earlyAprilwhen themasses Mayrhofen’s hottest event is Festivals &Events 433;half/full Mitte Einfahrt day €8/12). (half/full day€8/12) Bicycles canberented fromthe ing. Inquire atthetouristoffice abouttours. going,buttheviewsarebe tough exhilarat- uptoGinzlingandHintertuxzigzagging can to grababike andget pedalling.Theroutes encourage cyclists aroundtheZillertal passes 3476m Olperer (€79). Alpsincludingtheascentofthe Zillertal the boxed text, p89 ), whooffers daytours in PeterAustrian mountaineer, Habeler (see www.habeler.com; Hauptstrasse458) Next door, and skydiving fromRadfeld/Kundl (€190). ing (€24to€79), paragliding (€80to€160) ing waters of theZillerRiver (€33)tocanyon- adventure sportsfrom therag- hydrospeeding Hauptstrasse458) -zillertal.com; summer. in (1965m) andPenken (1800m)are €9.50/14.50 one-way/return fares onboththeAhorn cable cars give walkers agreat headstart; (scale 1:25,000).Fromthevillage two itself the Kompass the village. mapof Adetailed the region is (in English) of popularwalksheadingoutof prefer togoitalone,alsoproducesalist hikes.bles, herbtrailsandmountain Ifyou with aguestcard),which am- includenight organisesist office regular to theglacier(includedin ski pass). May afree busshuttles skiers fromMayrhofen cost€36.FromChristmastillearly Day passes Grossglockner, theDolomites andZugspitze. views of theTuxer Alpsand,oncleardays, phenomenal The sundeckat3250maffords spine of peakstothetipof theice-blue glacier. The resort provides easyaccesstoyear- The stunning alpine scenery and mountain The stunningalpinesceneryandmountain Action ClubZillertal From late May tomid-October, thetour- Ski School Mount Everest SchoolMountEverest Ski Ahorn Mayrhofen-Tuxertal-Zillergrund and cablecar,accommodating

( Hervis Sports Hervis % Hintertux Glacier Hintertux istheplacetogofor 629 77;www.action-club isrunbyfamous guided walks NORTHEASTERN TYROL ••Mayrhofen TYROL NORTHEASTERN Snowbombing

train station (

( % % 640 45; The . 628 29; (free

which spicesupthevillage withitstasty bellied Buddha greets youatSingapore, Kumbichl 874;s/d€27/46; in Scotland Yard. fin soupbefore crossing thestreet fordrinks Asian fare. orshark FilluponSichuan beef strasse 371;mains€7-12; cious homemade sausages. thisspeciality andthedeli- you cansample aroma. There are ahandfulof where tables hut at1800mforthree months toachieve its for itsunique 7am-noon Sat) snacks €2.50-7; cheap-and-cheerful pizzerias. chalets churning outcheese-heavy dishes to Mayrhofen from rustic dishes upeverything Eating ter with meat,dumplings and sauerkraut). tasty restaurant (mains€8to€21)askingforthe yourtongueinatwistatthe whirlpool. Get ily heirlooms,spaciousroomsandanoutside 500-year-old chalet hascorridors fullof fam- with geraniums insummer,thisrambling 346;s/d€89/154; Marienbrunnen mountains. the clean, andopenontobalconiesoverlooking since the1930s.Theroomsare simpleand this friendlyhotel,family runbythesame s/d €40/52; immaculate andhave own balconies. teeters ontheold-fashioned, butroomsare isagreatfarmhouse budget choice. Thedécor of vistas theAlps,asmall sauna and gym. homy touch. Otherdrawsare thepanoramic and flower-strewn balconiesgive theroomsa Pinewood,ragrugs this hilltopguesthouse. It’s worththe20-minute walkoutof townto www.gaestehaus-emberger.at, s/d€19/36 inGerman; lage; rates are 20%higher roughly in winter. of optionsinthevil- the mountain sleeping canhelpyoutrawlthrough The touristoffice Sleeping www.snowbombing.com. More andtickets details are available at a topline-upof DJsandwild inebriation. China-Restaurant Singapore China-Restaurant Kröll Metzgerei Kramerwirt Hotel Garni Central Hotel Kumbichlhof Gästehaus Emberger Gästehaus Zillertaler Bauernschmaus p Thisfamily-runbutchery isfamed h ) You’llfeel assnugabugin

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nearby Hochgebirgs-Naturpark Zillertaler walking enthusiastskeen toexplore the h ski season itcosts€2.80.Awindingroad ski season outsidethe withskipasses; free forthose Achensee isTyrol’s largest lake at9km.The and ringed withbeaches, theturquoise North of Jenbach, flanked bywoodedslopes ACHENSEE (p87). Circuit voir, thetrailheadforstunningZillertal valley tothe (toll €10)continuesonfromGinzlingupthe fished rainbow trout. locally restaurant (mains€7to€16)serves rooms are supremely andthe comfortable board. Thelow-ceilinged, pine-panelled oozes creaking historyfromevery floor- Todaythe18th-centuryfarmhouse to Italy. and awaysideinnforsmugglers travelling www.altginzling.at; s/d€28/56; skiers isthe only option. almost nonexistent; touringforexperienced derness withasmattering of huts.Skiing is Alpen. Theparkisanuntouched alpinewil- this placeis pure escapism. lacking anyobvioustouristinfrastructure, rich andapostcard Tyrolean village. playground, amagnet tothegolf-club-toting Moritz intheglamour stakes. It’saslalom Porschesand enough andPradatorivalSt centrethat off witha labyrinthine medieval skiers. Kitz,aslocalsnickname it, rounds and afew blackrunsto challenge veteran winning formula:fineintermediate terrain invariably make thegrade. Thisresort hasa resorts inthecountry,and Kitzbühel will Ask anAustrian torattleoff thetopski % KITZBÜHEL €15/9; ily reached bythe be hadfromErfurter (1831m),which iseas- the lake can andthesurroundingmountains €13/6.50) boat tours and October, connectingwithtwo-hour dles tothelake fromJenbach May between €18/22) Achenseebahn During winter, buses toMayrhofenDuring winter, buses are In formerlives, The 05356 /pop8500 8am-noon &1-5pmMon-Fri) h , aprivate steam cogwheel train,trun- of thelake. Far-reaching viewsover tourist office tourist 8.30am-5pm)

(www.tirol-schiffahrt.at, in German; adult/child inGerman; (www.tirol-schiffahrt.at, Schlegeisspeicher (www.achenseebahn.at; one (www.achenseebahn.at; way/return from Maurach. Rofanseilbahn Gasthof Alt-Ginzling Alt-Ginzling Gasthof

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52 01; €15/8.50) hr €5; car/motorcycle €4/2,plus€1.50 per person). up tothetopof (roadtollper themountain Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat, 10am-6pm Sun Jul-Sep &Christmas- 9am-6pmSat,10am-6pmSunJul-Sep Mon-Fri, 18; Hinterstadt www.kitzbuehel.com; Hinterstadt. Thecentral resort’s hub,centred onVorderstadt and Orientation &Information lonelyplanet.com climbing, canyoning and paragliding. shop foradventure sports,includingrafting, 580; www.element3.at; Winklernfeld 1) bungeeeven jumping. skydiving, ballooning, golf, water sports and Kitzbühel getsracingwithscenic flights, pulses Along withthe activities listed below, Activities about €3.50 per day. There are twobeach complexes, each costing swimming hole,thetree-flanked northwest of thecentre toKitzbühel’s natural reached by nica, edelweissandpurplebellflowers. It’sbest hr summer) rene Sailer. Toni and thetown’sfamousson,champion skier day. Thebigemphasisisonwinter sports ble BronzeAge beginningstothepresent traces Kitzbühel’sheritage fromitshum- 10am-1pmTue-Sat rest ofyear) 3-6pm early-Dec–mid-Mar, child €5/2; with goldswirls and frescoes. a chunky 48m belfryandaninterior adorned (Pfarrauweg 4; roque elements.Nextdoorthe Pfarrauweg 2; 15th-century candy colours. Perched above thetown, in cobbled streets linedwithgabledhouses core ofKitzbühel’s medieval is atangle Sights cess isavailable at andtouristoffice.the trainstation Internet ac- post office board. accommodation has loadsof infoinEnglish anda24-hour 9am-1pmSatrest ofyear)Easter, 8.30am-6pmMon-Fri, is1kmnorthofThe maintrainstation the For acoolingdipinsummer,venture 3km Ride toKitzbühelerHornwanderthese- Museum Kitzbühel Kitzbühel Museum andATMsBanks are everywhere andthe h Alpine FlowerGarden , butdrivers canalsowindtheirway 10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 2-8pm Sun) h , nurturingalpinebloomslike ar- (Josef-Pirchl-Strasse 11) (Josef-Pirchl-Strasse

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. rewarding biking, there mountain are over 30 with For those a thirst for challenging but CYCLING in the south. Grossglockner andGrossvenediger are visible the north,andbeyondKitzbüheler Alps, jagged Kaisergebirge range dominates to view superiorfromKitzbühelerHorn: the vulturesthe twopeaks,vista considerthe or KitzbühelerHorn,thedescentis free. Of with for adults/children (discountsavailable 10. Individualascenttickets cost€15.50/8.60 days,or€51.50forsixdaysin within seven youback€37.60forthreewill set days’travel (mid-May to mid-October). walks dailyat8.45amfor pany onthetrails,italsoorganises free guided plan) free of charge. Ifyou’dprefer somecom- a comprehensive caters towalker’s demandstoo,handingout directions fromthetown.Thetouristoffice ity; zillionsof inall walkingtrailsheadoff Walking isKitzbühel’s main summer activ- WALKING and costs€196forsix consecutive days. Kaiser-Brixental, Alpbach andWildschönau) 243 lifts;Kitzbühel,Schneewinkel, Wilder is ideal;itspansthewholeregion (including powder freaks, theKitzbühelerAlpenSkipass asfarsouthThurnPass.ski buses Forreal other times.Passes cover lifts,cablecars and and€33.50/88/175.50atall season in high (Christmas tomid-March) cost€38.50/101/202 the entire ski area. ephant signsandisagoodintroductionto Jochberg. Thealpinetourismarked byel- nic the red-and-blue runsthatmake upthesce- A great waytofindyourskilegsistackle black runsinthe (1668m) connectswithsomeheart-stopping for gentle cruisingon sunny slopes. pipe andkickers, whilebeginners flockhere is much loved bysnowboarders foritshalf- cars. Extending northeast,the termediates by53 liftsandcable andaccessed on 150kmof pistes geared mostlytowardsin- The Kitzbühel region offers exceptionalskiing SKIING One-day/three-day passes andweekly Spreading southwest,the A cable-carpassalsocovering localbuses Ski Safari Ski Gästekarte , linkingtheHahnenkamm to ) oneitherHahnenkamm Wanderwegeplan Pengelstein Gästekarte (1938m)area. Kitzbüheler Horn Kitzbüheler Hahnenkamm (hiking holders 351

TYROL TYROL ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ

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TYROL TYROL TYROL late) the Inntal, just 4km from Germany. The just4km fromGermany. the Inntal, Kufstein isthenorthernmost townin Orientation &Information finally becameAustrian property in 1814. theages through Tyrol andBavaria untilit control of thetownwashotlycontested by the InnRiver agem. isindeed Littlewonder the Kaisergebirge thebanksof andhugging beneath thetoweringlimestonepinnacles of but thelyricsringtrue:thistown squatting ling melodymaybecheesier thanCamembert Kufstein inthehitsong In the1970s,Karl Ganzer waxed lyricalabout % KUFSTEIN p318. see inwinter) bothhaveis closed tollsections; Hwy 107(theGrossglocknerRoad,which 108(theFelberHighway Tauern Tunnel)and scenery. somemarvellous you passthrough (€13.20, twicedaily).Heading southtoLienz, Bus isabetter optionasittakes twohours two changes are required (€34.80,fourhours). Kufstein (€8.30,onehour),change at Wörgl. a change atWörgl (€23.30,2½hours). For hours, whilemosttrainstoSalzburg require twoInnsbruck (€13.20,onehour)runevery fromKitzbüheltoDirect trainservices Getting There&Away soul and funk. bars andaVIParea. DJspumpouthouse, clubwithatrioofat thissee-and-be-seen Saturdays. on fromlivenight, bandsonFridaystoelectro are €1apop.There are nearlyevery events strikes,When midnight theJägermeister shots on thedancefloorandmunch ahotdog. chill ina1958Buick,get bumperto wacky American-themedbaristheplaceto sports, live musicandDJs at weekends. barn-style watering holewithbig-screen There’s atthis NewcastleBrownAleontap customers. for access happyhour(8pmto9pm)andfreetail wi-fi glamupthisfunkybarwithacock- lights Mon-Sat, 11am-2amSun) 354 Highways Grieserl Café Bergsinn Getting toLienzbytrainistricky,asoneor Getting Club Take Five 05372 /pop16,000 Bright youngthingspackthedancefloor Bright OTESENTRL • usen ••Kufstein TYROL NORTHEASTERN

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h Heimatmuseum Inside isthesmallbutimaginatively presented over Kufstein andthesurroundingpeaks. 1522. in Kaiserturm Theround and Tyrolduringthestruggles. pointofa pivotal defence forbothBavaria (when Kufstein waspartof andwas Bavaria) 10am-4pm winter) summer €8.90/4.90,winter€8/4.40; (Kufstein Fortress; past, headuptotheclifftop from this fairytale-like alleyway. tory shops fullof touristkitsch detractlittle lanterns andfrescoed façades.Even theobliga- withoverhanginga Disneyfilmset arches, Römerhofgasse The bigdrawinthecentre isthegingerbready Sights summer and winter. Gästekarte, overnight,mission. Ifyoustay ask forthe down accommodationwithoutcharging com- office ThisiswhereStadtplatz. you’llfindthe three-minute strollfromthemainsquare, isonthewestbankoftrain station river, a Emperor) andthesouthern istheWilder Kaiser (Tamenorthern range is theZahmer valley.The split bytheeast–west Kaisertal alike. TheKaisergebirge isactuallytworanges, It attractswalkers, and skiers mountaineers and stretching asfarStJohann inTirol. stone totheeastof Kufstein, risingto2300m The Activities mountains. the photograph thecastlesilhouetted against free of charge. Duskisalsothebesttimeto utes androamtherampartsgrounds you canwalkupthepathinunder15min- als atnoonand,inJulyand August, 5pm. makes recit- playingitatrickybusiness.Catch pipes; thedelayinsoundingof thenotes thekeyboardgap between and thetipof the with 4307pipes,46organ stopsanda100m Kaiserturm isthe –Andreasroll please the Hofer’s Below shoe. Bronze Age urnstofolkcostumesand–drum For an insight intoKufstein’s turbulentFor aninsight The lift to the top affords sweeping views sweeping The lifttothetopaffords When thefortress intheevening isclosed 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pmSat) 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, Kaisergebirge Kaisergebirge

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Kaiser hasbecomeacultattraction.Asign tuit office. tourist (one way/return €8/11; a free ing which hasthesmootherslopes!Pickup Kaiser (WildEmperor)–nomedalsforguess- Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels mean you’ll rolloutof thedoorfit to burst. classics like a rusticfeel. Enormousportionsof Austrian creaking floors andgrinning badgers create the one-timehaunt of Andreas Hofer, where the low-beamed restaurant (mains€8to€15), cost alittleextra).Crossthefootbridge to (river orfortress views and flat-screen TVs are kitted outwithchunky pinewoodbeds century comfort.Thecontemporary rooms charmthis hotel marriesmedieval with 21st- Römerhofgassebetween andtheInnRiver, 3-5;s/d€56/98) -loechl.at; Römerhofgasse freshly trout. caught The cosy,wood-panelledrestaurant serves rooms are spaciousandhave bright, balconies. tree-covered rockycrags.Thecountry-style isacalmhavenguesthouse hiddenamong p .felsenkeller.at, 35;s/d€38/72; Kienbergstrasse inGerman; outdoor pooltokeep kids amused. tree-shaded pitches, plusaplaygroundand friendly campsite 5kmsouthof Kufstein has tent €4/2.70/6; Egerbach54,Schwoich;campsitesperadult/child/ German; Maier Camping Sleeping &Eating ing fineweather(askatthe tourist office). toHechtseefree citybusgoes insummerdur- have swimmingareas thatcostabout€4.A 2.5kmtothesouthwest,bothStimmersee, trails. Hechtsee, 3kmtothenorthwest,and River, where there’s anetworkof walking est are inthewoodedarea westof theInn best explored onfootorbybike; theclos- Circuit tion, which isthetrailheadfor Wilder Kaiser slides intoviewatthetopsta- andredto deer squirrels. Themagnificent forest dense and cutsapaththrough home this precipitous ride,which traverses ravines you fromplummetingtothevalleyflooron comes clearwhy:onlyitty-bitty bars prevent ‘bouncingnotpermitted’says anditsoonbe- A real blastfromthepast,1970s o Felsenkeller Gasthof-Pension The tree-fringed ) Inthefoothillsof the Kaisergebirge, this (see p89 ). Wanderkarte Auracher Löchl Auracher Schweinshaxe p

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Facing the fast-flowing Inn,thiscentralcafé sort is Hohe Salve at 1828m, though Söll has sort isHohe Salve Söllhas at1828m,though will helpyou find accommodation. lage, provides informationonactivitiesand & sweets€3-7; reel you into Batzenhäusl, Tyrol’s oldest wine reel Tyrol’soldestwine youintoBatzenhäusl, also combined withneighbouring resorts Itter, 3-6pm Sat,9am-noonSun) 84; www.soell.com; Dorf activities insummer and winter. family-oriented placewithmyriadoutdoor successfully reinvented andisnowa itself terous visitors inthe1980s,resort has of Kufstein. Onceafavourite of boozy, bois- Söll is awell-known skiresort 10kmsouth % SÖLL outside the train station. a littleover leave anhouraway.Buses from (Munich), whichGermany isonadirect line assometrains funneldownfrom half-hourly, Innsbruck (€12.90,45to70minutes) are 1¼ hours) twohours; to runevery those train route; direct trains toSalzburg (€27.90, est roadroute isalso via Wörgl. hour) requires achange atWörgl. Theeasi- The hourlytraintoKitzbühel(€8.30,one Getting There&Away central life insummer. The chestnut tree-shaded terrace humswith give thevaulted restaurant amodernkick. Chandeliers, woodenfloors andleatherstools with risotto,fresh fishandtender veal fillets. square cravings Kufstein’s Italian satisfies €7-19; ally inspired andthefluffy 16th-century canonballs.Thecuisineisseason- is packed withcuriosfromnativityscenesto fortress. Thiseccentric,500-year-old haunt tavern, belowthe which burrowsintocliffs h cream. scrummy homemadestrudelandwalnutice opens ontoasunnyterrace andwhipsup (Austrian soufflé) comesrecommended.(Austrian soufflé) The highest skiingareaThe highest overlooking there- The helpful staff atthe The helpfulstaff Kufstein isonthemainInnsbruck–Salzburg caterersSelf canstockuponsuppliesatthe Masianco Villa Batzenhäusl lunch &dinner) 05333 /pop3450 Inn-Café Hell Inn-Café h Spar lunch &dinner) h

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TYROL TYROL TYROL cable car climbing the mountain is cable carclimbingthemountain Kloster shop Kloster made onthepremises fromthe canbe bought half-hour.every Marmalade andschnapps the hour,exceptin Julywhenthey’re available October toApril). Tours leave houron every (afternoon hours are shorter inMay andfrom tour, from9amto11amand1pm to5pm elaborate frescoes by Georg Wolker. adorned withrich stuccowork,goldswirlsand 1716. Craneyournecktoadmire theceiling Rose Grille image of theVirgin. Neartheentranceis life’ figures support84saintly surroundingan twining branches of thisversion of the‘tree of theinter-terior isdominated altar: bythehigh in the17thcentury.Theexuberantchurch in- when theabbeywasrevamped inbaroque style the front,which were addedasafinalflourish easily recognised byitspairof silver cupolasat façadestretchesthe monumental 80mandis inpristinegrounds, the Hohenstaufens. Set themotherofBavaria, Conradin, thelastof foundedin1273byElizabeth ofin Stams, abbey; is theochre-and-white One of Tyrol’s truearchitectural highlights % STAMS WESTERN TYROL run on Sunday. from Kufstein (€3.80,50minutes); onlythree there are plentyof MondaytoSaturday buses Johann in Tirol. It’snotonatrainline,but WörglSöll isonHwy312between andSt Getting There&Away made the traditional way. bread, (andsample) schnappssee andcheese thesummeryoucan an apiary.Throughout playgrounds, aworkingmillandbakery and Along theroute are sundials, water obstacles, a walkingtraildotted withfunfamilyactivities. (cable caroneway/return €10/12) running asfarStJohann in Tirol. ing isalsoapopularwinter pastime, with trails Cross-countryski- season. for adayinthehigh comprising 250kmof pistes. Passes are €35.50 to formthemammoth Hopfgarten, Kelchsau, Westendorf andBrixen 356 In summer,walkers are drawn to The abbeycanonlybevisited byguided 05263 /pop1300 ETR YO • Sas ••Stams WESTERN TYROL % 62 42; Stiftshof 1;toursadult/child€4/2.50) 62 42;Stiftshof , anexquisite ironscreen madein

( h 9am-noon & 1-5pm) Skiwelt . Atthefirst stage of the Zisterzienstift Zisterzienstift (www.skiwelt.at)

. Hexenwasser Hohe Salve (Cistercian area, ,

500 22;adult/child€5.90/2.80; valley is After Ötz, thefirst village of anysizealongthe pools in the valley. transport, cablecars andnumerousswimming Ötztal Card ter. Ifyou’re here insummer,askaboutthe room rates are inwin- 30%to50%higher formation onactivitiesandaccommodation; offices. Thelatter cansupplyyouwithin- kets, banks,campinggroundsandtourist mountaineers. and is ayear-round magnettoskiers, hikers peak, highest to drainintotheInnRiver. Dwarfed byTyrol’s valleys runningnorthfromthe thisisoneofthe bordertoItaly, three river ciers shapethiscornerof Tyrol.Guarding slopes, shimmeringsnowfieldsandbluegla- andwooded forces:rugged mountains mental The (ÖtzValley)Ötztal isaplaceof rawele- pop 12,000 THE ÖTZTAL abbey. the Both theA12/E60andHwy171passnear regional trainsstophere (€7,35minutes). butonly(frequent) Innsbruck andLandeck, ence for those whodareence for those tobare. Abandon h the stars and summits. illuminates thetubs;picka jettogazeupat whenafluorescentspacey atnight pyramid ofa blissfulstate relaxation. It’sparticularly thermal waters gurgle andpummel you into is itstrioof flyingsaucer-shaped pools,where backdrop of Alps,thefocalpoint theÖtztaler €14/7, Sat&Sun€16/9; .aquadome.at; Oberlängenfeld 140;3hrcardadult/child Mon-Fri futuristic spa, boulders. moss-covered Stuibenfall along aforest trailtoTyrol’slongest waterfall, From here, 40-minute amble it’sapleasant enclosures where wildboarandoxen roam. thatched huts,herbgardens,craftdisplaysand text, opposite ). Avisittakes intraditional boxedNeolithic worldof Ötzitheiceman(see recreatinga fascinatingopen-airmuseum the Sights &Activities The thermalbaths anchor the isonthetrainrouteStams between Most villages inthevalleyhave supermar- Just 10kmdownthevalleyisLängenfeld’s 10am-11pm) Umhausen

, cascading159mover and slate cliffs (7/10 days€56/74) , a marvellously surreal experi- , amarvellously Wildspitze Wildspitze Aqua Dome h , hometo 9am-11pm) h , which covers public (3774m),theregion

( 9.30am-5.30pm May-Oct) % Ötzi Dorf Ötzi Dorf lonelyplanet.com . Set againstthe . Set 05253-64 00;www Ötztaler Alpen sauna (

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passes arepasses €41.50foradayinthe season. high viewsof sweeping theentire Alps. Ski Ötztaler Gaislachkogel lonelyplanet.com known ski resort popularwithfamilies, as parish inAustria. It’sanotherwell- highest €5.50/7.50) one-way/return village; achairlift climbsto reach thesurroundingrugged peaksfromthe activities inthearea. There are twowaysto arrange accommodationandhasbrochures on 4; Gemeindestrasse office tourist rally onBig3–three summitsover 3000m.The at Rettenbach and Tiefenbach, plusthealpine pistes include red andblueruns,glacierskiing nightlife.and pulsating Theresort’s 150kmof (1377m), askiresort withsnow-sure slopes waterfall orfine morning mist. to bedrenched bya thunderstorm, araging ber ortheraintemple where youcanchoose out, step insidetheteeth-chattering icecham- Gregorian chants play.Fortheultimate chill- vaulted hay rooms,honey-scented cabinsandthe modesty toswelter inbarn-stylesaunas, Further southis Rolling 20kmdownthevalleyyouhit in Bolzano. be impregnated ofhisbodywasmissing. with Ötzi’sfrozen part sperm,buttheall-important afterand Italianwomencontacted theuniversity thediscovery shortly andrequested thatthey Switzerland, itpredates knowledgeoftheusecopperin Ötztalarea by500years. ofAustria, Germanyandwhile copperdatingfromtheageofÖtzihasbeenfoundinotherparts knife gashestohisarmsallpointed copperaxe toafight.His isstillamatter ofdebate, however; and clotheswere discovered tobefromotherpersons,andanarrowwound to hisbackand Ötzi wasinvolved inaviolentstruggleanddiedwhiletryingtoescape. Bloodonhisweapons X-rays showedhehadsuffered andfrostbite, andhisribshadbeenbroken. fromarthritis ent frommodernhumans. facewasreconstructed, His rightdowntohisdarkhairandblueeyes. copper axe, bowandarrows,charcoalclothing. Physiologically hewasfoundtobenodiffer- werepores includinga visible. oftheskin Inaddition,Ötzihadbeenfoundwith70artefacts, him theoldestandbest-preserved mummyintheworld. however, revealed hewasnearly5400yearsold,placinghim inthelate Stone Age andmaking Ferdinand. underArchduke Fritz’, wasthoughttohave beenasoldierserving Carbon dating, to InnsbruckUniversity tobestudied. body hadbeenfoundsome90mwithinItaly,butwasappropriated bytheAustrians andtaken within theSimilaunGlacier. Policeandforensic scientistswere summonedtothescene. The In September intheÖtztalerAlpencameacrossbodyofamanpreserved 1991Germanhikers ENTOMBED INICE In 1998 Ötzi wasrelinquished totheItaliansandbecamecentrepiece ofanewmuseum Not everybody wasworriedaboutthefinerpointsofhisheritage,however. Several Austrian For manyyearsdebate ragedover howtheIcemanmethisend,butrecent analysishasrevealed Ötzi becamebignews,more even sobecausethestate wasremarkable; the ofpreservation initiallydecideditwasabout500yearsold.The iceman,nicknamed‘Ötzi’or‘FrozenExperts Dampf-Dom, (

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(3058m; return €19.50) h 05254-510-0; www.soelden.com, in German; 05254-510-0; www.soelden.com,inGerman; WESTERN TYROL ••TheÖtztal WESTERNTYROL 8am-6pm Mon-Sat,9am-noonSun) , while a cable car rises to to , whileacablecarrises Obergurgl asteaming shrine where Hochsölden where there are (1930m), the

(2090m; (2090m; Sölden Sölden can can

gurgl.com, in German; Gurglerstrasse 18; gurgl.com, inGerman; depart almost hourly (only every two hoursdepart almost hourly(only every buses In thesummerand winterseasons high from where headsouthinto thevalley. buses Arriving bytrain, get Bahnhof, off atÖtztal Getting There& Away course of the Timmelsbach River. Pass overroad continuesintoItaly the ing point,the makes turn,isanotherview- asharpright-hand Obergurgl’s and Hochgurgl’s pistes. A gondolaprovides easyaccessbetween one as does Mon-Sat, 9.30am-noonSunwinter) 8am-4pmSat,9.30am-noonSunsummer,9am-5.30pm Fri, Obergurgl andtheviewsequallyimpressive.steeper The Hochgurgl to andrises but theroaddoublesbackonitself Obergurgl isactuallyattheheadof thevalley, lookout, accessiblebychairlift year-round. the village. termediates totheedge andcontinue right of pistes are forbeginners mostlysuitable andin- Just beyondHochgurgl, where theroad

(2474m; car/motorbike €13/11) (2474m; car/motorbike (2150m). Here thepistes are alittle Hohe Mut tourist office tourist ski pass ski Windegg Belvedere (2659m)isajustlyfamous

(day/week pass€41.50/228.50)

( % covers bothresorts, 05256-6466; www.ober where itjoinsthe h (2080m).The 8am-6pm Mon- Timmelsjoch 357

. TYROL TYROL TYROL in the area. list of andfarms private rooms,guesthouses and eat.Dropintothetouristofficefor a stay Imst hasasprinkling of good-value placesto downhill inarickety rollercoaster (see p91 ). lakeAlps, batheinaclearmountain andrace where walkers can admire of vistas theLechtaler carved is thethree-hour loopthatleads uptheglacier- ing offintothehills.Afavourite amongfamilies with 350kmof well-marked hikingtrailshead- of thehandcarved masks. ghost adult/child €4/1; tion, visitthe tors. Tolearnmore about thisage-old tradi- to impish characters, fromhunchback isthevibrantparadeof ghost-likehighlight next takes placeon15February 2009.The festival, the Every fouryears, ImstplayshosttoaShrovetide Sights &Activities free internet access. tivities inImstanditssurrounds;there’s also informedonaccommodationandac- highly Johannesplatz 4; before thetourists got there. hillsides–it’sataste ofgraze onthese Tyrol Haflingerslopes inthenearbyÖtztal, horses upthe silent uphilltrudges. Whileskiers carve for unassuming littletownisaterrific base undulating meadowsandhiddenravines, this best-kept secrets. Withitsalpine-crispair, ged range of peaks, Imst isoneof theregion’s (Gurgl Valley) andspreading towardsajag- situated inthewideGurgltal Beautifully % IMST winter. in Timmelsjoch Pass) isoften blocked bysnow (viathe year, buttheroadbeyondintoItaly be able toget atleastasfarHochgurgl all Obergurgl. at border,butachangethe Italian isrequired continueasfarTimmelsjoch,ing buses on twomorn- From mid-Julytomid-September (one way/return €8.30/16.60,1½hours). andgoasfarObergurglin thelowseason) 358 Sleeping &Eating The In summer, Imst isidealforeasyrambling If youhave youshould yourownwheels, 05412 /pop9000 ETR YO • Is ••Imst WESTERN TYROL Rosengartenschlucht tourist office tourist Spritzer Schemenlaufen h h Fasnachthaus 4-6pm Fri) 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noonSat) 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, thatsquirtwater atspecta-

( % , which exhibits many ravine to Hoch-Imst, ravine toHoch-Imst, 69 10-0;www.imst.at; (ghost dance);the (ghost

( % Hexen 69 10;Streleweg 6; (witches) is €18), where headsgrace stag the walls. the wood-panelledrestaurant (mains€10to plate of venison faraway in ragoutisnever rooms, aswimmingpoolandfree wi-fi. A hascomfy This centralfamily-runguesthouse Thomas-Walch-Strasse3;s/d€48/74; German; bar and playground. The first-rate facilities includeakiosk,snack pastures isapeacefulspottopitch yourtent. this friendlycampinggroundsurroundedby sites peradult/child/site€6/3/7.50) cluding Garmisch-Partenkirchen) underthe (in- andGermany Austria (including Seefeld) to the summit. popular skiresort, which alsooffers access Garmisch-Partenkirchen, most Germany’s Säntis inSwitzerland.Northof Zugspitzeis ranges, AlpsandMt aswelltheBavarian panorama of themainTyroleanmountain tothecrest,sails where there’s amagnificent cable car Aspeedy AustriaandGermany. der between is Ehrwald The crowninggloryof thesmall resort of % EHRWALD ( byfrequent andtrains buses and isserved east–west roads(theA12/E60andHwy171), tothenorthofThe townisslightly themain Getting There&Away from Innsbruck€10.20, one hour Ehrwald islinked with otherresorts in Hirschen Gasthof forgotten inthisbeautifulforest. cient Austrian symbolslostandlong fertility an- ingly phallicmonolithsthatseemlike and sizes. Among themare acoupleofstrik- geological wondersassumevariousshapes and formedbyerosionover centuries,these shady woods. RemnantsofthelastIceAge pop upasyou’re wanderingthroughthe hoodoos –thinrockspires thatsuddenly of bringstoyouthiscollection waterfalls trudge alonganarrowtrailandpasttrickling Roppen, 10minutes fromImst.Anhour’s columns)inthelittlevillageof(earth age tothebizarrely named Fans thepilgrim- ofruderocksshouldmake HEAVY ROCK 05673 /pop2550 Camping Imst-West Camping ( summer oneway/return €21/32 Zugspitze Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

( % (2962m), markingthebor- ( %

69 01;www.hirschen-imst.at,in 662 93;Langgasse62;camp- Perched above Imst, Erdpyramiden ) . pis

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) find roomsfree of charge. 6pm Sat) [email protected]; the tivities, contact For informationonaccommodationandac- Card Happy Ski Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels high season costs€25), butisbetter known season high its 22kmof gentle slopes (adayskipassin to dizzying staircase the tower. Alps, climbthe andtheLechtaler Landeck scene isinfullswing.Forenviable viewsover at Christmaswhenthemechanised nativity Krampus figurinestohandcarved rything fromCeltic Oct) h Landeck and vine-cladtowers of 13th-century Your gazeisdrawnupwardtotheturrets Sights &Activities also make thetrip(one way €1.60). sideof onthesame theriver.stay Localbuses into townwalkleftonleaving and thestation the bus network. access tothemajor outdoorpoolsand sights, summer, pickuptheTirol forfree WestCard commodation. Ifyou’re overnight staying in willhelpbookac- where thefriendlystaff h office tourist cluster onMalserstrasse. Here you’llfindthe restaurantsMost of andhotels Landeck’s Orientation &Information hiking, cyclingand white-water rafting. activitiesfromskiingto drop forhigh-altitude town’s naturalskyscrapers andprovide aback- mertime schnapps-guzzling. TheAlpsare the thatareneighbouring Stanz perfect forsum- aprecipitousfantasies, gorge, andorchards in castletoactoutRapunzel medieval a clifftop of tourists.Yet ithasanawfullotgoingforit: Sanna Rivers, receivesLandeck justatrickle Sitting pretty above thefast-flowing Innand % LANDECK ets are validforthe whole trip. Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Austriantraintick- youmustchange Germany; pass through at Innsbruck (€16.30,twohours) toEhrwald Landeck attractstheoddskier ortwoto Landeck is1.5kmtotheeast;getThe trainstation Trains from Seefeld (€9.30,1¼hours) and Trains fromSeefeld . The 1st-floor museum showcases eve- . The1st-floor showcases museum 05442 /pop7500 8.30am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-noon Sat) 8.30am-noon &2-6pmMon-Fri, 10am-5pm Tue-Sun mid-May–Sep, 2-5pmTue-Sun 10am-5pm Tue-Sun mid-May–Sep, in the heart of the town. Staff willhelp intheheartof thetown.Staff ( % masks.Thecastleisespeciallylovely

( 632 02;Schlossberg;adult/student€6.50/4; % (adult/child fortheminimum3days€88/53)

656 00; www.tirolwest.at; Malserstrasse; 656 00;www.tirolwest.at;Malserstrasse; tourist office tourist h 8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am- 8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, WESTERN TYROL ••Landeck WESTERNTYROL (

% 05673-23 95; Schloss , . trees, this lodge isacalmretreat 20minutes’ outside of Landeck. Cutting a path through Cuttingapaththrough outside of Landeck. hard tomiss this dazzlingcanary-yellow .at; Herzog-Friedrich-Strasse 10;s/d€28/56; .at; Herzog-Friedrich-Strasse snacks €3-6; Tuck intoorganic produce at breakfast. pine. Thespashelters awhirlpoolandsauna. style withloadsof andwarm naturallight walk fromthecentre. Theroomsare country- Tramserweg 51;s/d€62/104; cuisine. Tyrolean solid restaurant (mains €7to€13)serves style roomsare large andwellkept, andits street justdownfromthecastle. Its1970s- p priced. reasonably descript, butroomsare and comfortable hotel onthemaindrag.Thedécorisnon- Sonne Hotel Sleeping &Eating before rollingbackdownto the valley. can kickbackandtaste thelocalfirewater There are anumberof rustichutswhere you and amind-boggling 65 schnapps distilleries. orchards, thevillage ishometo600residents a sunnyplateau dotted withappleandplum a thirst, popover to for theheadof abulland a nymph. some interesting rockformations–lookout pine forest, viewpointsand thetrailpasses 9.30am-4pm Oct) Zams; adult/child€3.50/2.50; at cliffs downhill Inn Trail ( p78 ). freetourist office’s GPStours the ortackle (half/full day€18/22) the InnRiver. Youcanalsorent glacier tours, rockclimbingandraftingon activities fromcanyoningand paraglidingto ( Tirol West Card. ranges guidedwalks,which are free witha Tyrol.Thetouristoffice ar-journey through trail ( p86 in ) alsostopsoff on its Landeck of marked footpaths. The280kmAdlerweg up toKrahberg (2208m),where there isaweb % Venet cablecar for itsexcellenthikingtrails.Insummer,the Café Haag Café Tramserhof Greif Gasthof If thefresh airandactivityhave worked up A rollercoaster of water thrashes limestone Adventurous typesmake for ) 646 36; www.sportcamptirol.at; Mühlkanal 1 Mühlkanal 646 36;www.sportcamptirol.at; ) Greif sitsonasquare above themain Zammer Lochputz h

, afinespecimenof agorge just ( ( 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-7pm Sat,10am-7pm 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, ( % % % (one way/return €10.20/12.20)

( here ononeof toheadoff the % 622 46;www.tramserhof.at, inGerman; 623 28-0; Maisengasse 19;coffee &623 28-0;Maisengasse 625 19;www.hotel-sonne-landeck 622 68; Marktplatz 6;s/d€34/56; 622 68;Marktplatz Stanz ps h (

% (4km away). Set on (4kmaway).Set 9.30am-5.30pm May-Sep, 9.30am-5.30pm May-Sep, 656 00;Hauptstrasse53, ) Nestledamong Sport Camp Tirol Camp Sport mountain bikes , offering p zooms ) It’s 359

TYROL TYROL TYROL is broken in winter carpetof when adeep villages are low-key insummer,butthelull glaciated peaksof the Silvretta range. The is adramaticlandscape overshadowed bythe of the theInntal, Grazing theSwissborderandrunning west pop 5950 THE PAZNAUNTAL but atleastthree changes are required. on withpublictransporttoMerano inItaly, (€9.30, onehour),where it’spossibletohead toNauders dailyrunfromLandeck buses of theReschen Pass (openyear-round). Six you’ll soonreach byway SouthTyrol(Italy) Alternatively, ifyoubearsouthtoNauders end upinSwitzerland(infrequent buses). routes. IfyoucontinuealongtheInnyou’ll further upthe Inn Valley. the EngadineinGrau-bünden, Switzerland, here are foundin similarindesign tothose cles togently rollinggreenery. Many homes around gion butthesceneryisbeautiful,particularly Tyrol. There are few major inthisre- sights (InnValley)Inntal extends for230kmwithin Shadowing InnRiver, theturquoise the pop 11,250 THE INNTAL thecentre through road, passes of town. proaches 315,theInntal thetown.Highway burrowingintoatunnelasitap- Landeck, centre. the in and/orfromthebusstation train station in alldirections, departingfromoutsidethe two hours toBregenz head (€19.90).Buses Innsbruck (€11.90,50minutes) andevery InterCity express trainsoperate hourlyto Getting There&Away terrace. tree-shaded sun’s out,pullupachair onthechestnut in wood-panelledsurroundings.Whenthe veal goulashtospinach restaurant dishes upAustrianclassicsfrom mains €12-23; to the castle. fortheuphilltrudgethe sugarkickneeded you’ve them,trythecakes sampled –just dient inthiscafé’sdivinechocolates. Once Sun) 360 The A12/E60 into Vorarlberg passes byThe A12/E60intoVorarlberg passes Schrofenstein Hotel South of Pfunds, youhave thechoice of Locallypicked plumsare thekey ingre- ETR YO • TeIna ••TheInntal WESTERN TYROL Pfunds h , shifting fromjagged pinna- lunch &dinner) Paznauntal

( % Spätzle 623 95; Malserstrasse 31; 623 95;Malserstrasse Schrofenstein’s (Paznaun Valley) (egg noodles) (egg ing andskiing inthearea. Ischgl is compact joins the main highway nearBludenz.Regular joins themainhighway duringwinter andre-€11.50/10.50) isclosed lent views.Thispass(tollcars/motorcycles Bielerhöhe Pass ( p378 ), where there are excel- along thevalley,crossingintoVorarlberg at road(Hwy188)runsOnly asecondary THERE&AWAYGETTING ible video footage. photos, newspaperreports andsomeincred- minders intheshapeof of thedevastation Tue-Sun) adult/child€8/4; inGerman; .alpinarium.at, spot, the builtonthe hasbeen documenting theevent avalanche allbutsweptitaway.Amuseum a major inFebruary disaster 1999whenan resort of in Ischgl and Galtür. Vorarlberg, andanumberof swimmingpools lic transportover theBielerhöhePass into €32.50/19.50) Its summerequivalent and Samnaun,aduty-free area inSwitzerland. adult/child €80/45.50) tive isolation.The itsrela- best skiareas, of) despite (orbecause like snow drawsskiers toparty-heartyresorts Sun) h The ORIENTATION &INFORMATION years. recent including Sting,BonJovi andEltonJohn in Concert, which haswelcomedahostof stars Topof theMountain ing theseason-closing place forretiring wallflowers, especiallydur- techno Love coexist. itorlumpit,thisisno chalets andlap-dancingbars, folkmusicand tion of raunchy; ruralmeets aplacewhere log for itsmoney.Theresort isabizarre combina- ski scenethatgives StAntonamArlberg arun with snow-sure slopesandaboisterous après- Ischgl powdersville becomesaquintessential When thefirst flakes fall,thealpinevillage of % Ischgl (€7, 70minutes) from Landeck. travelbuses alongthevalleyasfarGaltür Around 10kmfromIschgl istheuncrowded The valleyisundoubtedly oneof Austria’s 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon&4-6pm Sat,10am-noon 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 05444 /pop1500 stocksheapsof literature on hiking,bik- Ischgl tourist office tourist . Insideyou’llfindmanypoignantre- Galtür Alpinarium Galtür Alpinarium ( below ). comprises cablecars, comprises lifts,pub- . Thisunspoiltvillage suffered covers Ischgl, Galtür,Kappl

( Silvretta Ski Pass Ski Silvretta % 52 66-0;www.ischgl.com;

( (3-day passadult/child % lonelyplanet.com 05443-200 00;www h

(2-day pass 10am-6pm ACTIVITIES the ski lifts. thoroughfare, which isjustashort amblefrom themain and bars huddlingonDorfstrasse, and walkable,withmosthotels, restaurants Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels and cated ing budget rather thanblowout,centrallylo- bar.garden andslickcocktail Ifyou’re seek- lifts, thishiphotel lures withits Zen-style d €150-280; ( on theroomsatboutiquey haveStarck puttheircontemporary stamp summer. in therestaurants Aside close Candela, fromLa winterquoted season. belowinthehigh doublethose pricestoberoughly Expect winter, sobookingaheadisrecommended. round. Ischgl’s bestbedsfillupquicklyin The followingaccommodationisopenyear- SLEEPING &EATING interspersed with18 huts. mountain the area some300kmof comprises trails Greitspitz and2929mFlimspitze. Intotal, Klettersteige mering lakes toambitiousscramblingon the ranging fromgentle ramblesalongsideshim- for €23 per day. Ischgl22) inGerman; .ischgl-bike.at, at thetouristoffice. technique park.Pickupafree mapof thearea from downhilltrackstocirculartrailsanda features 1000kmof bikeable territory ranging moth Silvretta Bike Mountain Arena ( p79 ) match Ischgl for nights. Thursday ticularly scenicwhenfloodlitonMondayand the snowfromIdalptoIschgl, which ispar- €10/4.50) pipes andadedicated boarding park. equally idealfor experts.Theterrain is portunities tosatisfy op- there are blackruns and off-piste several are mainlygeared towardsintermediates, but andcruising.Theruns are perfect forcarving and accessto230kmof groomed slopes that fers fabulous At theheartof theSilvretta Arena, Ischgl of- % Walking Walking There are few Austrianresorts thatcan Designers from Laura AshleyDesigners fromLaura toPhilippe In winter, the7km 52 26;Ischgl144;www.ischglmadlein.com;s€127-210, Vereina Eveline offers abumpydownhilldashthrough pis is anotherbigdrawinsummer,

(fixed roperoutes) at2872m (

% ( % skiing 56 40;Ischgl 277;d€36; snowboarding 53 10;Ischgl187;s/d€32/60; mountain biking ). , withultramodernlifts A few pacesfromtheski Ischgl Bike toboggan rents qualitybikes ARLBERG REGION withtwohalf-

Hotel Madlein Hotel

( track % . Themam- 52 62;www (adult/child p ) are p )

huge portionsof Tyroleanfavourites like h Arlberg isundoubtedly the bestknownand as thecradleof alpineskiing,StAntonam fers some of Austria’sfinestskiing. Heralded linked several resortsTyrol, comprises andof- The Arlberg region, shared byVorarlberg and ARLBERG REGION two hours at weekends. hourly fromMondaytoFridayand every (€5.90,55minutes) andIschglLandeck operates between busservice An efficient THERE&AWAYGETTING shows andscantily-clad go-go dancers. is thewild lap-dancing bar. Anothercelebrityfavourite ful peopleandsidlesuptotheCoyote Ugly Madlein; atthelegendaryprosecco diva Paris spotted slurping Hiltonhasbeen Pub ZZ Topatfullblast,make forthe ping in moonboots. vibe, ear-splitting musicandplenty of bop- ( ( Ischgl; lively après-skihauntsinclude out incialising togear upforabignight only open in winter. Pub,places, exceptfortheGoldenEagle chichi clubsshake theresort. Thefollowing go-goplaying alpinebarns,saucy bars and of melt:acocktail oompah- snow doesn’t Ischgl’s après-skiissohotit’sawonderthe DRINKING specialities andafabulous sun terrace. next totheSilvretta lift,withcharcoal grill Restaurant on theslopesisstone-and-glass Kasknödel Ischgl 45;mains€8-17; a dark-woodchalet, h pizzas is the centre. Agreat choice forthinandcrispy atmosphere andclean, comfy rooms. both cosychalet-style pensionswithahomy % % For apintof Kilkenny, alaid-back vibeand There’s nothinglike alittleslope-sideso- There are loadsof diningpossibilitiesin lunch &dinner) 9pm-5am)

52 23;Ischgl80; 59 18; ( % h 56 71;Ischgl6; h La Candela La Candela

10pm-5am) ( (cheese dumplings).Thenewkid (cheese % withfrequent live music,laser Trofana Arena 4-7pm) 52 70;Idalp;mains€6-15; atHotel in Victoria. Housed h , bothoffering anelectric , which brimswithbeauti- ( % 3pm-midnight) h Bauernküche Loba h 55 80;Ischgl175;pizza€6-12; 8pm-2am)

dinner) ( % Pacha 600-700; Ischgl334; and . Even party

( rustles up % h Golden Eagle Golden Eagle Feuer &Eis 52 26; Hotel 52 26;Hotel ( % Alpenhaus

9am-4pm) Kuhstall 52 89; 361

TYROL TYROL TYROL most ski shops. cess, butyoucan check emailsforfree in summer) winter, noon-5pmMon-Fri Mailbox thenorthernend ofoff thepedestrianzone. board andafree telephone outside. There’splaces tostay. anaccommodation formation onoutdooractivities,maps and 9am-6pmSat,9am-noon &2-5pmSunwinter) Fri, 9am-noonSat &Sunsummer,8.30am-6pmMon- Mon-Fri, www.stantonamarlberg.com; ArlbergHaus; The centrallylocated Information the Nasserein gondola. quieter slopesof StJakob, by easilyaccessed slopes.Furthereaststillarethe nursery the east isNasserein, where novices cantest out centre) andtheskilifts.A10-minute stroll (pedestrian-only paces fromtheDorfstrasse isontheRendlside,afewtrain station bank of River. theRosanna Themodern St Antonisstrungoutalongthenorthern the nightlife hedonistic. fast-forward mode–theterrain isfierceand andIbizain askibum’sShangri-La tween Valluga, StAntonamArlberg isacrossbe- be here. Nestledatthefootof 2811m-high ski bugisgoingtobite you,itwillsurely thedownhill skiingwasborn.Soifever founded thefirst skiclubintheAlpsand and there In1901,theresort waslight! beheld thevirgin powderontheirdoorstep – and goingof cattle,untilonedaythelocals ing andmeltingof snowandthecoming werecenturies seasons definedbythefall- villagesleepy intherugged Arlberg. For In the beginningthere wasStAnton,a % ST ANTONAMARLBERG likewise. do October. Many andsomehotels guesthouses andopenfromlate Juneto seasons, tween are be- Mostothers close ski season closed. rants, bars anddiscosthatswingduringthe with walkers. Even so,someof therestau- busy (andcheaper), stillpopular though liable tillaboutmid-April. Summerisless in Arlberg, see p379 . most popularresort. Forotherdestinations 362 Orientation The post office is near the Rosanna River,The postofficeisneartheRosanna The winter season islong,withsnowre-The winter season 05446 /pop2600 RBR EIN • tAtna rbr ARLBERG REGION••StAntonamArlberg

(Dorfstrasse 54;perhr€6; (Dorfstrasse tourist office tourist hasinternet ac- h 8.30am-8.30pm h

( % 8am-6pm has in- 226 90; door andoutdoor swimming pool. benefitsplusentrance tothetown’sin- same as hobnail boots. were made of woodandmenwere astough tracks backtothegoodolddayswhenskis of prepared pistes. valid for83skilifts,givingaccessto276km plate of sledders stopatthehalfwayhut, With glowingfacesandfrostyfingers, most TuesdayandThursday is floodlitevery night. past snowytrees downtothevalley;track where sleddingfanscanhurtleandbounce is the4km-long the year) high-season pass€41.50/114/224,discountsatothertimesof Asingle rails andahalf-pipe. Rendl is on Gampen(1850m)andKapall (2330m). only). Forfledglings,there are slopes nursery (withaskiguide allthewaytoLech off-piste to Valluga (2811m)fromwhere expertscan go carsbackcountry opportunities.Cable ascend ing theKandahar run onGalzigandfantastic challenging, withexhilaratingdescentsinclud- conditions. Theterrain isvastandtheskiing dola, launched in2007,hasfurtherimproved alpine Jul &Aug, 1-5pmTue-Sun Sep-Jun) 10;adult/child€3/1; Rudi-Matt-Weg The nostalgic Sights &Activities Nasserein and StJakob are safe bets,just a drop thefurtheryou move from the centre; so it’sworthbooking ahead.Pricestend to Budget bedsare asrare astheyetiinStAnton, Sleeping area. the only) withanumberof suggested trailsin producesasmallbooklet(inGerman office lifts, ora (7-day €30) andconsiderpurchasingoffice a bookletandmapfromthetourist up adetailed peaks. Ifyou’re planningongoinghiking,pick (one way€4-18,return €5-20) During thistime,ahandfulof wildflowers andgrazingcattleare pure Heidi. most popularactivityandthemeadowsfullof €10-16) Cyclists are thetourist alsocatered for: In summer, Adding tothisenormouswinter playground St Antonis atthevery pinnacle of Austria’s , towarmupwithschnapps andabig covers thewholeArlberg region. Itis skiing Schweinshaxe , providing unlimited accesstoall snowboarding St AntonCard andthe spaceyGalzigbahngon- walking Ski & HeimatMuseum Ski Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels Rodelbahn (pork knuckles). in the mountains isthe inthemountains territory with jumps,

(€45) rise uptothemajorrise tracesStAnton’s , which offers the (toboggan run), (toboggan h ski pass ski cable carsandlifts 11am-5pm Tue-Sun Rodelalm Wanderpass

(1-/3-/7-day ( % (mains 24 75;

.at; Dorfstrasse 75;d€36; .at; Dorfstrasse Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels wooden chalet inStJakob isa20-minute walk st-anton.at; Gsörerweg 26;s/d€23/40; clean. spotlessly ling andchintzy fabrics,but they’re comfy and rooms are old-stylewithheavy woodpanel- St Anton’sbestbudget digs.The no-frills lower skislopes,thisquaintchalet isamong much asdoublethose given below. rates can beas winter season, In thehigh andwinter (December toApril). September) to following placesare openinsummer(June smaller pensionsonlyopeninwinter. The dreds of optionsinStAnton,butmanyof the 15- to20-minute strollaway.There are hun- (6km); Lech(18km) To StChristoph Steissbach Valluga (4.4km) To Galzig(1.3km); 4 1 3 2 ST ANTONAMARLBERG Gästehaus Alpina Gästehaus Tiroler Frieden 25 SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION ioe ree...... C3 Tiroler Frieden...... Post Office...... Mailbox...... Hotel Post...... Hotel AltePost...... Haus Moostal...... Bergschlössl...... Ski &HeimatMuseum...... Tourist Office...... (1.2km) To Kapall AC Gampen Dengertstr (1846m) Moos

22 Mooserweg Gampen Sesselbahn

Rudi-Matt-Weg ( Mooserweg % Unterer Gastig

( % 22 47;tiroler.frieden@st-anton p

Alte Arlbergstr

33 15;gaestehaus.alpina@ ) Nassereinbahn

Backing ontothe Backing Galzigbahn 23 To Rendl (2.2km)

Arlberg Str 24 ARLBERGREGION••StAntonamArlberg 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 p D4 D4 D4 D4 D4 B4 B4 D4 Thislovely )

B

Mulden DRINKING EATING li...... D3 Albi...... Bodega...... Bobo's...... Spar...... Rodelalm...... Pomodoro...... Museum Restaurant...... (see4) Herman's Burgers...... Funky Chicken...... Fuhrmann Stube...... Floriani...... Fangbahn 4 Rendlbahn Oberdorf 12 5 27 17

DorfstrasseHannes Schneider Weg (Illuminated Bob large, modernroomsare fullof littleextras

Schuler-Weg 2;s/d€62/114;

Rodelbahn harweg 13; s/d €69/125; for chilling outafter adayon the slopes. andwhirlpool are room, saunas itation ideal such asbottledwater, fruitandwi-fi. Themed- There’s atiny onsite.sauna roomshavebright squishy bedsandwi-fi. Dressed inblondewoodfurnishings, the welcome atthislittlegem of aguesthouse. strasse 14;s/d€29/52; broadband. and the tidyroomsare kitted outwithcableTV from thecentre. Openingontobalconies, Sled Run) Kindisfeld

Bergschlössl Bergschlössl Post Hotel Haus Moostal Nassereinbahn See Inset Bahnhof 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 D4 B2 D4 D3 D4 D3 B4 D4 D4 Nassereinergasse Pfarrkirche

( TRANSPORT ENTERTAINMENT Sport Alber...... (see8) Intersport Alberg...... Bus Station...... Kandahar...... Sennhütte...... Piccadilly...... (see 8) Mooserwirt...... Heustadl...... Fang House...... Bar Cuba...... rz agrh...... B3 Krazy Kanguruh...... % ( % Kirchgasse

( % 221 30;www.hotel-post.co.at; Walter-

pi Dorfstr 22 00;[email protected]; Kanda- 0.3miles 500m 0 0 Nasserein 21 28 31; [email protected]; Mark 28 31;[email protected];Mark t- 28 ps 14 psi 3 15 16 Hannes Schneider Weg You’llreceive awarm

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11 -W Dorfstrasseeg 20 Gästehaus Alpina(1km); 26 1 100 m ) Thishotel’s

D

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6

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