Wahyu Utami : as Het Centraal Park van - Case Study

MAGELANG AS HET CENTRAAL PARK VAN JAVA Case Study: The Historic Urban Center of Magelang during the Colonial Period

by Wahyu Utami Atyanto Dharoko & Ikaputra & Laretna Trisnantari , ,

Fig 1: Natural setting of Magelang (source: Utami, 2010)

Introduction was built in Mataram and Magelang became a place for recreation and rice storage. During the colonial period, Magelang is located in , Indonesia. It is Magelang continued to serve as a place for recreation situated 375 metres above sea level and is surrounded by and rice storage and many plantations were established. the seven mountains: mounts Merapi, Merbabu, Andong, Because of its location, Magelang grew rapidly and in Telomoyo, Sindoro, Sumbing and , and is set in 1906, it became a municipality. A lot of construction work beautiful scenery. The cultural landscape of each moun- was taking place, especially along the main street of the tain possesses a specifi c value and meaning. The beauti- city (the -Yogyakarta Road). Settlements such ful scenery is completed by Tidar Hill, which is located in as Bayeman, Jendralan, Kebonpolo and Kwarasan were the south of the city. In addition there are the two rivers established to house the growing number of people. Progo and Elo in the west and the east of the city, which This paper aims to describe Magelang as a tradi- serve as the barriers between the and the mu- tional and a colonial city. The development of Magelang nicipality of Magelang. Its setting, between mountains, will be described referring to historic periods. Buildings the hill and the rivers make Magelang a unique place. and settings of the colonial period will be identifi ed and With its seven mountains and two rivers, Magelang was discussed. In order to get a clear picture, some of set- an important place during many historical periods. Dur- tings will be explored by a historical reading and content ing the Old Mataram Kingdom, Magelang was a spiri- analysis, which is used to interpret urban facts diachron- tual place, a sacred place. Later on, the Sultan’s palace ically and synchronically (Fig 1).

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Uniqueness of the natural landscape and the meaning of Magelang

The beautiful setting and Magelang’s natural sur- roundings have interesting connections to the history of the city. Tidar Hill in the south of the city is surrounded by seven mountains and two rivers. In ancient times each of the mountains was considered to be the dwell- ing place of the gods. Before and during the Old Mata- ram Kingdom, the mountains were believed to bring peace and were used for praying because they were the highest places around. In these ancient communities, the rivers were believed to be the best places to live and pray by. The inscriptions of Poh (905 CE) and Mantyasih Fig.2: Magelang is surrounded by seven mountains and beautiful (907 CE), which are located on the banks of the Progo scenery (source: Utami 2010. Redrawn from Kedoe Map 1855) River, describe the beautiful scenery around Magelang. During the Colonial Period, the mountains became tour- The origin of the name of Magelang is also described ist attractions, and the valleys were used for plantations in various stories: and rice storage. The lowest-lying area was chosen to be a) It is derived from the words ma and gelang. In a residential area and as the place where Magelang was Javanese gelang means “bracelet”, which is used to sym- established (Fig. 2). bolize the beautiful scenery of Magelang; b) The name People believe that Tidar Hill is very special; that it Magelang is taken from the story atepung temu gelang, is unique. Surrounded by the mountains, it explains the where Kyai Sepanjang is besieged by the warriors of the ancient beliefs of Java. In Bahasa Indonesia, the word Mataram Kingdom; c) Magelang is defi ned through its tidar can be translated as glang or galang, which was geographic position in the Kedu area; d) Magelang is de- defi ned as a mandala with a phallus at its center. Thus, scribed to “glow” (cemlorot), because of the mountains; Tidar Hill can be defi ned as a phallus with seven moun- e) Magelang is derived from the words Wanua Glang- tains around it (Atmodjo, 1988). Tidar Hill plays an im- gang, Galang or Glam, that are in the inscriptions of Poh portant part in numerous legends of Magelang: and Mantyasih; f) Magelang refers to the existence of a) Tidar Hill is described as “the spike of Java”. Ac- a family that was looking for a place to live, when the cording to legend, if Tidar Hill falls, the whole of Java daughter of the family lost her bracelet. The words ma will fall too (Adiwiratmoko 1988; Atmodjo 1988; Raffl es + gelang can be translated as “mother + bracelet” (Adi- 2007; Sjouke 1935); b) The Rum people successfully de- wiratmoko 1988; Atmodjo 1988; Lissa 1935; Moehkardi feated the authorities of Java by putting four protectors 1988; Sjouke 1935); and g) Magelang is derived from the in four locations in Java and placing one in the center legend of the fi ght between Mage and Liang, the sons for balance (Adiwiratmoko 1988; Atmodjo 1988; Raffl es of the mountains Merbabu and Sumbing, mentioned 2007 Sjouke 1935); c) the god of the mountains dropped above. According to this legend, Magelang is where the some mountains onto Java island so as to be able to whispers calling Mage and Liang can be heard (Huisman control the island. However, even after he had dropped 1964). the mountains, Java still kept moving, so he dropped The unique geography of Magelang has been used one additional mountain, Tidar Hill, in the center of Java as a symbol for the Magelang Municipality since the 22nd as a spike to fi x the island. (Sjouke 1935); d) The gods in of January 1935. The coat of arms of Magelang, a silver mounts Merapi, Merbabu and Sumbing each had a son. pall reversed on blue background, a golden ring and a Mage, the son of Mt. Merbabu’s god found a beautiful spike symbolize the natural landscape and the moun- stone, which was believed to perform miracles, in the tains surrounding Magelang, as well as the strategic po- valley. Liang, the son of Mt. Sumbing’s god, was jeal- sition of the city. The three stupas on top of the shield ous and angry, because he also wanted to possess the and the two lions supporting the shield symbolize the stone. In a fi ght, Liang killed Mage. After that, many function and importance of the city through different people heard strange sounds in the valley, whispering periods of history (Sjouke 1935) (Fig. 3). the names of the two sons.

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Fig. 4: The position of the alun-alun (1), the kadipaten (2), the (3) and the house and offi ce of the Resident (4) (source: Utami 2001/2011)

Fig. 3: The coat of arms of Magelang Municipality (source: Sjouke 1935 and KIT Collection). dalem (king) and refers to the reputedly big and beauti- 1. Spike: symbol of Tidar Hill and the legend of Magelang as the ful palace gardens where coffee, vegetables and fruits center of the island of Java 2. Golden ring: symbol of the ring of mountains surrounding Ma- were planted. Danoesoegondo (1936) says that the pal- gelang ace was overseen by a demang (traditional leader), who 3. Silver pall reversed: the three lines symbolize the strategic periodically gave the products of the garden to the king. position of Magelang between the cities of Semarang, Yog- yakarta and Purworejo Today the Kebondalem Area in Magelang still refers to this ancient garden and other areas, such as the Bay- Magelang as a royal city eman (spinach garden), the Jambon (guava garden), the Karet (rubber garden) or the Kebonpolo (crops planted as The three inscriptions of Tuk Mas (± 500 CE), Poh (905 second crops in the dry season). CE) and Mantyasih (907 CE) already contain references to the ancient city of Magelang. The Tuk Mas inscription Magelang as a colonial city describes two sacred river valleys surrounded by sacred places and mountains. The inscriptions of Poh and the From 1810 until 1812, Magelang was ruled by the Brit- Mantyasih, which originate from the Old Mataram King- ish. Mas Ngabehi Danukromo was chosen as local leader dom, describe mountains, rivers and the city’s strategic who had to follow the orders of the Dutch leader of the location (Darmosoetopo 1998; Haryono 1994). Even Residency (Lissa 1935; Sjouke 1935). The city though Magelang was only a small city, called wanua or of Magelang was chosen as the capital of the Kadipaten watak, during the Old Mataram Kingdom, it was chosen Magelang, which consisted of and as a place for rice storage and as a spiritual place, and Magelang Municipality. During this period, the British became a perdikan area (tax-free area) and a sima area built three main elements of the city: the alun-alun (town (area for praying to God) (Utami 2009; Utami 2010). The square), the masjid (mosque) and the kadipaten (a replica area around Magelang, with its rivers and mountains, of the Kebondalem Palace). The kadipaten was located in was believed to be sacred and at the same time was the Kebondalem area with the mosque nearby (Nessel considered a good place to live. The city of Magelang 1935; Danoesoegondo 1936). The alun-alun, which had grew rapidly, and temples and inscriptions were built already served as a communal space during the period around the perdikan and sima areas. After the collapse of the kingdoms, was located in front of the kadipaten of the Old Mataram Kingdom, a new kingdom was es- (Utami 2010). To the west of the alun-alun, small bam- tablished in . Little information exists about this boo houses were constructed. The Dutch later trans- period, when Magelang became a part of the Pengging formed this area into a residential and working complex Kingdom and the Demak Sultanate, before it was ruled for the Resident (Dutch leader of a residency) (Nessel by Yogyakarta and . Under the New Mataram 1935; Danoesoegondo 1936). The British only stayed in Kingdom, Magelang became a part of Mancanegara, the Magelang for a short time, so only a few buildings were area surrounding the core kingdom, and was recognized built under their rule. In 1813, some British colonial areas as a kademangan (traditional law area with a local ruler). were transferred to the Dutch, including Magelang. The It became a place for rice storage and for recreation due Dutch assigned three Commissioners-General to serve to its position and beautiful scenery (Danoesoegondo as the authorities. Ngabehi Danukromo was re-elected 1936). During this period, the Kebondalem Palace was as the Regent of Magelang to serve as a local author- constructed by the king, Sri Susuhunan. The name ke- ity. The Dutch granted him the title Raden Tumenggung bondalem is derived from the words kebon (garden) and Danoeningrat (Lissa, 1935) (Fig. 4).

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Fig. 5: Beautiful scenery from the former Resident’s offi ce Fig. 6: Map of the Dutch in 1855 (source: Kedu (source: Utami 2010) Map, 1855. Map redrawn by Utami 2010)

The area that formerly served as the Resident’s offi ce 4) 1843: Bridge project that connected Semarang – is the best place from which to enjoy a beautiful pan- Yogyakarta and Magelang – Bagelen oramic view of the hinterland of Magelang. From here, 5) 1852: Road from Salaman to Purworejo one can see mounts Merapi and Merbabu to the east of 6) 1857: Water project in town and construction of a the city and Sumbing and Sindoro to the west of the city, dyke as well as the Menoreh highlands (Fig. 5). 7) 1862: General repair of roads in the Kedu Residency Magelang, with the lowest elevation in the area, was 8) 1870: Repair of the Secang-Temanggung-Para- known as a production area, and local people worked kan- road the fi elds and the plantation. The was used 9) End of 19th century: railroad from Yogyakarta via as a waterway for transporting bamboo. With its beauti- Magelang to the Willem I Railway Station in Am- ful natural landscape, Magelang grew as a government barawa city and recreation area and became the center of the From 1810 to 1906, the city of Magelang was the region. Many different people moved to Magelang and capital of the Magelang Regency. In 1906, the Dutch helped to create the different facilities. Magelang’s im- granted Magelang the status of a municipality, which portance grew with the beginning of Dutch rule. Due it has retained to this day, while the region surround- to it strategic location on the road from Yogyakarta to ing the municipality was called Magelang Regency. Semarang, in 1817, Magelang was chosen as the head of This was done because of the increasing importance of the Kedu Residency, a colonial administrative unit, which Magelang. When Magelang became a municipality, the consisted of today’s Magelang Municipality and Regency region grew even faster (Table 1). and four other regencies (Utami 2001; Danoesoegondo Under Dutch rule, many buildings were constructed, 1936; Magelang’s government 1936) (see Fig. 6). such as places of worship, hotels and guesthouses, colo- • During the time of the New Mataram Kingdom, nial and local schools, hospitals, theaters, factories, mili- Magelang was a kademangan, a traditional law area tary buildings, the train station, a post offi ce, the regency with a local leader. and the city hall (Utami, 2001, 2004, 2010, 2011). Most of • During the colonial period, Magelang became these buildings were located in the center of the city or Magelang Municipality (gementee Magelang). on the main street from Yogyakarta to Semarang. Many • Magelang now has the status of a municipality. schools were built along the main street of Magelang, Magelang became a military city and many building namely the MULO, Christen MULO, Ambonsche School, projects were undertaken to improve the infrastruc- HIS, Eropesche School 1ste, Eropesche School, Erope- ture and connections to other cities, including: sche School 3de, Eropesche School School m/j Bijbel, HJS 1) 1833: Main road from Yogyakarta to Semarang via Kejuron, HJS Jambon, Christen Schakelschool, Katholic Magelang to Pringsurat Schakelschool, Holl. Chinese School, Malaise-Chinese 2) 1842: Main road from Yogyakarta to Semarang School, Ambasch Leergang, Standart School, Vervolk- via Magelang from Pingit to school, CVO, Kopschool, Pawiyatan kelas III, Setya Hre- 3) 1842: Road from Magelang to Salaman daya Onderwijs, SHO, Taman Siswa, Adhidarma, Sekolah

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78-88 (mythology) The beginning of the importance of Magelang through the placement of the „spike“ (Tidar hill)

± 500 The Tuk Mas inscription describes the sacred valley with the sacred rivers, surrounded by seven mountains.

905 During the Old Mataram Kingdom the Poh inscription in Watak Kinawang is created along the side of the river Progo. It says that Magelang is a perdikan (tax-free area) and a sima (land for praying to God) area.

907 During the Old Mataram Kingdom, the Mantyasih inscription is created. Malang is de- scribed as a perdikan and sima location. The local authorities are obliged to look after all sacred places.

1006 The villages of Poh and Mantyasih are destroyed through an eruption of

1546 The Kedu area becomes part of the Pengging Kingdom and the Demak Sultanate

1575 Kebondalem, which was a part of Kedu, becomes part of the New Mataram Kingdom that was controlled by a demang, a local leader.

1755 Kebondalem becomes a place for recreation. Sri Susuhunan builds the palace gardens that were controlled by Wedana Jaba (Siti Bhumi).

1810 Magelang Regency contains seven districts. The capital of Magelang Regency is the dis- trict of Magelang (Kebondalem). The British Resident starts to build three dominant ele- ments in Magelang: the alun–alun, the kadipaten and the mosque).

1813 Magelang comes under Dutch rule.

March 24 , 1817 The Dutch found Kedu Residency.

March 14, 1818 Magelang becomes the head of Kedu Residency. The residency building in the former area of the English bamboo houses is renovated.

March 13, 1828 General De Kock moves the military complex from Surakarta to Magelang. It is construct- ed to the north of the alun-alun.

July 31, 1901 The Dutch redraw the area of the Kedu Residency, which now includes the Magelang Mu- nicipality, the Magelang Regency, the , the , the and the Regency.

1906 The Magelang District is turned into the Magelang Municipality by the Dutch.

1929 Magelang becomes a Stadgemeente and the city att ains autonomy.

Table 1: Chronology of Magelang as wanua (small city), district, regency and municipality (source: Utami, 2011)

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no. building name information

1 Brandspuit in the west of alun-alun 2 Mosque in the west of alun-alun 3 Book shop in the west of alun-alun 4 Telephone offi ce in the north of alun-alun 5 Kadipaten Magelang in the north of alun-alun 6 Protestant church in the north of alun-alun 7 Societeit de Eendracht (club) in the north of alun-alun 8 Bandungsche Restaurant in the east of alun-alun 9 Theater Roxy in the east of alun-alun 10 Escomptomaatschappij offi ce in the east of alun-alun 11 Bank in the east of alun-alun 12 Hotel Lotz e in the east of alun-alun 13 Pos offi ce in the east of alun-alun 14 J Van Gorkom pharmacy in the east of alun-alun 15 Alun-alun station in the east of alun-alun 16 Tugu in the south of alun-alun 17 Klenteng in the south of alun-alun 18 Agrarian aff airs in the south of alun-alun 19 Watering Departement in the south of alun-alun 20 Middelbare Opleiding School voor nl. Ambtenaren (OSVIA) in the south of alun-alun 21 Court in the south of alun-alun 22 Water Tower in alun-alun 23 Police Post No. 1 in alun-alun 24 Telephone in alun-alun Table 2: Buildings in the vicinity of the alun-alun in 1945 (sources: map 1923, map 1945, Sjouke 1935, Soekimin 1984, Utami 2001, Utami 2011) Cina, Kweekschool, Tionghwa Hwaa Kwan and the MOS- the Regency, the Residency and the municipality (town VIA (Sukimin 1984). These schools were not only built hall). To support the city activities there were depart- for the Dutch, but also for the local people, even though ments, such as the water department, the department sometimes only certain local people were allowed to at- for agrarian affairs or the department for land regis- tend the school. Hospital facilities, including the military tration, as well as other facilities, such as a court and a hospital, the mental hospital, the lung hospital, the gov- prison. Among the well-known hotels in Magelang were ernment hospital and the hospital for mothers and chil- the Loze Hotel, the Olga Hotel, the Centrum Hotel, the dren, as well as many military facilities, such as barracks Montagne Hotel and the Tidar Hotel. Additional facilities or military schools, were also built in Magelang. For the were a communal water tower, banks, theaters, restau- government, there were offi ces for the wedana (head of rants, clubhouses, telephone offi ces, etc. Many of these the district or municipality) and for the administration of buildings were located in the center of the city, close to

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the alun-alun and other important buildings, such as the kadipaten and the residency complex. The other build- ings were located on the main street. The area around the alun-alun as the center of the city grew faster than the other areas of the city (Table 2). During Dutch rule, Magelang was known as Het Cen- traal Park van Java (the central park of Java) or Middel- punt van den Tuin van Java (center of the garden of Java) (Sukimin 1984, Magelang Government 1936). Some- times, Magelang was compared to the cities Malang and Priangan, being a beautiful mountain city with a strate- gic function (Fig. 7).

Nature and the design of the city

The design of many buildings and complexes in Magelang was based on nature as the dominant as- pect in the historic urban center of the city. The beau- tiful scenery was used by the architects to full effect. A number of buildings in the urban historic center are

described in more detail in the following sections. Fig. 7: Buildings in the alun-alun area, 1945 (source: Map of Mage- lang in 1945, redrawn by Utami 2010) Alun-alun The alun-alun was developed in 1810 by Danoek- romo, the fi rst regent of Magelang, during the period when Magelang was controlled by the British. The de- signs of the alun–alun, the mosque and the kadipaten were based on traditional patterns (Lissa 1935; Utami 2001, 2003, 2010b). The alun-alun is rectangular in form and was surrounded by numerous important buildings, Fig. 8: The alun-alun before 1900 (source: Collection of the KITLV namely the kadipaten, the mosque, a Chinese temple Leiden) (klenteng), the MOSVIA school, clubhouses, hotels, banks, telephone offi ces, etc. Apart from the kadipaten and the mosque, all the buildings were built as colonial facilities. The Dutch mixed traditional and colonial ele- ments to represent the balance between the local au- thority and the Dutch authority (Utami 2001) (Fig. 8). As in other Javanese cities, there is a banyan tree in the alun-alun in Magelang. During the colonial period, Fig. 9: Exhibition in the alun-alun, 1924 (source: Collection of the KITLV, Leiden) the alun-alun was used as a public space for events and other activities throughout the year. It also served as an area for special events, such as the Kedu Plantation Ex- Magelang. The fourth regent of Magelang again reno- hibition in 1924 (Fig. 9). vated the mosque (no further information is available about this renovation). In 1934, the mosque was again Magelang mosque renovated, this time by architect H. Pluyter on behalf In 1810, a mosque was built in the west of the alun- of R.A.A Danoekoesoema (Sjouke 1935). Because of the alun. Before 1810, the area had been a traditional settle- good relations between the Dutch and the local gov- ment with a small mosque (langgar) and a Muslim cem- ernment, the construction of the modern mosque was etery. In 1836, the regent of Magelang, R.A.A Danoe- fi nancially supported by the Dutch government. Mounts ningrat II, replaced the mosque with a larger building. Merapi and Merbabu can be seen from the mosque In 1871, the mosque was rebuilt by the third regent of (Fig. 10).

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control the local communities. During the War (1825-1830), these villages played a central role. The Residency complex also featured beautiful gardens and green spaces in the back yards of the houses (Fig. 11).

Loze Hotel The Loze Hotel was the fi rst hotel in Magelang and the biggest hotel during the colonial period. Originally, it was a small rest house, which was built in 1840 by Th. I.D Loze, but when Magelang became a strategic and military city, the rest house grew and was very popular (Sjouke 1935). In 1932, it was renovated by C. Loze and Fig. 10: The façade and form of became a modern hotel with modern rooms, a swim- the Magelang mosque in 1864, 1927 and 1935 (source: Coll- ming pool, and a beautiful park. The mountain panora- ection of the KITLV, Leiden; ma could be enjoyed from the building (Fig. 12). Sjouke 1935) Olga Hotel The Olga Hotel was located in the main street in front of the Residency offi ce, in a strategic location with easy and rapid access to the center of city and the Resident’s house. The Olga Hotel was especially popular because of the nice building and because of its food (Sjouke 1935; Magelang Vooruit Article 1936). Each room in the hotel had its own adjoining garden. The street around the Olga Hotel was one of the most expensive areas in Magelang.

Kweekschool Magelang The Kweekschool (Kweekschool Voor Inlandsche Ambtenaren) was a school where local students could obtain their teaching certifi cate. The building covered an area of 2.500 m2. Construction began in 1899 and Fig. 11: Alun-alun (1), kadi- paten (2), mosque (3) and Re- completed in 1920, including auxiliary buildings, such sidency complex (4) (source: as the headmaster’s house and the student dormitory redrawn from Utami 2001) (Tourism Dept. of Magelang 1999). This school was very important because it had been moved from Surakarta Kedu Residency complex and because it was a high school, which was the highest The Residency complex, covering more than 82.000 level of education that could be attained in Indonesia at m2, was built in 1819 by J.C. Schultze. The buildings fea- the time (C.E. van Kesteren, 1883; Etek, 2008; M. Nasrud- ture a fl oor space of 91.200 m2 and include residency din Anshory, 2008). In those days, people had to go to offi ces, the Resident’s house, pendopos (open pavilions) Holland for higher education (Fig. 13). and offi cial houses. During the British colonial rule, this area was covered with bamboo military houses. Because Kwarasan settlement of their strategic location, the houses were torn down to The Kwarasan settlement was built in 1936 and was make way for brick houses during 1815 and 1819. The designed by (Magelang Vooruit 1936; house of the Resident faced the mountains of Sumbing Akhihary 1990). The settlement could easily be reached and Sindoro, the River Progo and the Menoreh High- from the west and the east side and was an exclusive land. Mounts Merapi and Merbabu could also be seen area for the Dutch, who thought that would protect from this area. The villages at the foot of the mountain them from local diseases. The name Kwarasan was de- and the peoples’ activities at the River Progo could be rived from waras, which can be translated as “healthy” seen from this area, which was a way for the Dutch to (Fig. 14).

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Fig. 12: The Loze Hotel as the oldest and biggest hotel in Mage- lang (Source: Collection of the KITLV, Leiden)

Fig. 14: Kwarasan Settlement (source: Utami 2007)

Conclusion

The city of Magelang has been inspired by nature and geography. Mountains, hills and rivers together create a beautiful setting and a unique environment. This, together with Magelang’s strategic position, made Magelang into a signifi cant city in the colonial period. Magelang grew as a city for recreation and as a military city, which became the head of the regency and the Res- idency. With its natural landscape, Magelang became a Fig. 13: Kweekschool, 1919 (source: Collection of the KITLV, Lei- den) unique garden city.

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References

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