Wahyu Utami : Magelang as Het Centraal Park van Java - Case Study MAGELANG AS HET CENTRAAL PARK VAN JAVA Case Study: The Historic Urban Center of Magelang during the Colonial Period by Wahyu Utami Atyanto Dharoko & Ikaputra & Laretna Trisnantari Gadjah Mada University, Yogyakarta, Indonesia Fig 1: Natural setting of Magelang (source: Utami, 2010) Introduction was built in Mataram and Magelang became a place for recreation and rice storage. During the colonial period, Magelang is located in Central Java, Indonesia. It is Magelang continued to serve as a place for recreation situated 375 metres above sea level and is surrounded by and rice storage and many plantations were established. the seven mountains: mounts Merapi, Merbabu, Andong, Because of its location, Magelang grew rapidly and in Telomoyo, Sindoro, Sumbing and Ungaran, and is set in 1906, it became a municipality. A lot of construction work beautiful scenery. The cultural landscape of each moun- was taking place, especially along the main street of the tain possesses a specifi c value and meaning. The beauti- city (the Semarang-Yogyakarta Road). Settlements such ful scenery is completed by Tidar Hill, which is located in as Bayeman, Jendralan, Kebonpolo and Kwarasan were the south of the city. In addition there are the two rivers established to house the growing number of people. Progo and Elo in the west and the east of the city, which This paper aims to describe Magelang as a tradi- serve as the barriers between the regency and the mu- tional and a colonial city. The development of Magelang nicipality of Magelang. Its setting, between mountains, will be described referring to historic periods. Buildings the hill and the rivers make Magelang a unique place. and settings of the colonial period will be identifi ed and With its seven mountains and two rivers, Magelang was discussed. In order to get a clear picture, some of set- an important place during many historical periods. Dur- tings will be explored by a historical reading and content ing the Old Mataram Kingdom, Magelang was a spiri- analysis, which is used to interpret urban facts diachron- tual place, a sacred place. Later on, the Sultan’s palace ically and synchronically (Fig 1). 1 UUtamitami aarticle.inddrticle.indd 1 007.12.20127.12.2012 110:54:360:54:36 Wahyu Utami : Magelang as Het Centraal Park van Java - Case Study Uniqueness of the natural landscape and the meaning of Magelang The beautiful setting and Magelang’s natural sur- roundings have interesting connections to the history of the city. Tidar Hill in the south of the city is surrounded by seven mountains and two rivers. In ancient times each of the mountains was considered to be the dwell- ing place of the gods. Before and during the Old Mata- ram Kingdom, the mountains were believed to bring peace and were used for praying because they were the highest places around. In these ancient communities, the rivers were believed to be the best places to live and pray by. The inscriptions of Poh (905 CE) and Mantyasih Fig.2: Magelang is surrounded by seven mountains and beautiful (907 CE), which are located on the banks of the Progo scenery (source: Utami 2010. Redrawn from Kedoe Map 1855) River, describe the beautiful scenery around Magelang. During the Colonial Period, the mountains became tour- The origin of the name of Magelang is also described ist attractions, and the valleys were used for plantations in various stories: and rice storage. The lowest-lying area was chosen to be a) It is derived from the words ma and gelang. In a residential area and as the place where Magelang was Javanese gelang means “bracelet”, which is used to sym- established (Fig. 2). bolize the beautiful scenery of Magelang; b) The name People believe that Tidar Hill is very special; that it Magelang is taken from the story atepung temu gelang, is unique. Surrounded by the mountains, it explains the where Kyai Sepanjang is besieged by the warriors of the ancient beliefs of Java. In Bahasa Indonesia, the word Mataram Kingdom; c) Magelang is defi ned through its tidar can be translated as glang or galang, which was geographic position in the Kedu area; d) Magelang is de- defi ned as a mandala with a phallus at its center. Thus, scribed to “glow” (cemlorot), because of the mountains; Tidar Hill can be defi ned as a phallus with seven moun- e) Magelang is derived from the words Wanua Glang- tains around it (Atmodjo, 1988). Tidar Hill plays an im- gang, Galang or Glam, that are in the inscriptions of Poh portant part in numerous legends of Magelang: and Mantyasih; f) Magelang refers to the existence of a) Tidar Hill is described as “the spike of Java”. Ac- a family that was looking for a place to live, when the cording to legend, if Tidar Hill falls, the whole of Java daughter of the family lost her bracelet. The words ma will fall too (Adiwiratmoko 1988; Atmodjo 1988; Raffl es + gelang can be translated as “mother + bracelet” (Adi- 2007; Sjouke 1935); b) The Rum people successfully de- wiratmoko 1988; Atmodjo 1988; Lissa 1935; Moehkardi feated the authorities of Java by putting four protectors 1988; Sjouke 1935); and g) Magelang is derived from the in four locations in Java and placing one in the center legend of the fi ght between Mage and Liang, the sons for balance (Adiwiratmoko 1988; Atmodjo 1988; Raffl es of the mountains Merbabu and Sumbing, mentioned 2007 Sjouke 1935); c) the god of the mountains dropped above. According to this legend, Magelang is where the some mountains onto Java island so as to be able to whispers calling Mage and Liang can be heard (Huisman control the island. However, even after he had dropped 1964). the mountains, Java still kept moving, so he dropped The unique geography of Magelang has been used one additional mountain, Tidar Hill, in the center of Java as a symbol for the Magelang Municipality since the 22nd as a spike to fi x the island. (Sjouke 1935); d) The gods in of January 1935. The coat of arms of Magelang, a silver mounts Merapi, Merbabu and Sumbing each had a son. pall reversed on blue background, a golden ring and a Mage, the son of Mt. Merbabu’s god found a beautiful spike symbolize the natural landscape and the moun- stone, which was believed to perform miracles, in the tains surrounding Magelang, as well as the strategic po- valley. Liang, the son of Mt. Sumbing’s god, was jeal- sition of the city. The three stupas on top of the shield ous and angry, because he also wanted to possess the and the two lions supporting the shield symbolize the stone. In a fi ght, Liang killed Mage. After that, many function and importance of the city through different people heard strange sounds in the valley, whispering periods of history (Sjouke 1935) (Fig. 3). the names of the two sons. 2 UUtamitami aarticle.inddrticle.indd 2 007.12.20127.12.2012 110:54:540:54:54 Wahyu Utami : Magelang as Het Centraal Park van Java - Case Study Fig. 4: The position of the alun-alun (1), the kadipaten (2), the mosque (3) and the house and offi ce of the Resident (4) (source: Utami 2001/2011) Fig. 3: The coat of arms of Magelang Municipality (source: Sjouke 1935 and KIT Collection). dalem (king) and refers to the reputedly big and beauti- 1. Spike: symbol of Tidar Hill and the legend of Magelang as the ful palace gardens where coffee, vegetables and fruits center of the island of Java 2. Golden ring: symbol of the ring of mountains surrounding Ma- were planted. Danoesoegondo (1936) says that the pal- gelang ace was overseen by a demang (traditional leader), who 3. Silver pall reversed: the three lines symbolize the strategic periodically gave the products of the garden to the king. position of Magelang between the cities of Semarang, Yog- yakarta and Purworejo Today the Kebondalem Area in Magelang still refers to this ancient garden and other areas, such as the Bay- Magelang as a royal city eman (spinach garden), the Jambon (guava garden), the Karet (rubber garden) or the Kebonpolo (crops planted as The three inscriptions of Tuk Mas (± 500 CE), Poh (905 second crops in the dry season). CE) and Mantyasih (907 CE) already contain references to the ancient city of Magelang. The Tuk Mas inscription Magelang as a colonial city describes two sacred river valleys surrounded by sacred places and mountains. The inscriptions of Poh and the From 1810 until 1812, Magelang was ruled by the Brit- Mantyasih, which originate from the Old Mataram King- ish. Mas Ngabehi Danukromo was chosen as local leader dom, describe mountains, rivers and the city’s strategic who had to follow the orders of the Dutch leader of the location (Darmosoetopo 1998; Haryono 1994). Even Pekalongan Residency (Lissa 1935; Sjouke 1935). The city though Magelang was only a small city, called wanua or of Magelang was chosen as the capital of the Kadipaten watak, during the Old Mataram Kingdom, it was chosen Magelang, which consisted of Magelang Regency and as a place for rice storage and as a spiritual place, and Magelang Municipality. During this period, the British became a perdikan area (tax-free area) and a sima area built three main elements of the city: the alun-alun (town (area for praying to God) (Utami 2009; Utami 2010). The square), the masjid (mosque) and the kadipaten (a replica area around Magelang, with its rivers and mountains, of the Kebondalem Palace). The kadipaten was located in was believed to be sacred and at the same time was the Kebondalem area with the mosque nearby (Nessel considered a good place to live.