INTRODUCTION

Positano to Minori and many hidden coves in between.

First things first. The Amalfi Coast Travel Essentials Guide is not an exhaustive list of every single town and hotel and restaurant along the entire Amalfi Coast. Instead these are my personal insider tips and picks that I have gathered over many my trips to this bewitching part of the world to help you make the most of your trip to the Amalfi Coast.

The Amalfi Coast Travel Essentials Guide is not just hotels, restaurants and shopping secrets, I will also tell you the best way to get to the Amalfi Coast and where to park when you get there. This guide will help you find the best pizza in Positano, the best shoe store in Capri and the best pastry in Amalfi. This is a work in progress. Let me know via email at [email protected] if you find mistakes or have suggestions for new entries. For new and weekly updates also check the Amalfi Coast Travel Essentials Guide Facebook page. I will continue to add places and towns as I explore more of the Amalfi Coast.

This guide has more than 100 entries to help you avoid tourist traps and travel delays and guide you to the very best the Amalfi Coast has to offer. ABOUT THE AUTHOR

I have been a beach girl since I was little. First visiting Florida, where my grandparents had a home and many, many summers on the South Carolina Coast. When I went to college in Washington, D.C., I fell in love with the Delaware seaside town of Rehoboth beach. It’s old fashioned boardwalk and all American vibe has kept me coming back for decades, now with a husband and a teenager, who has spent almost every summer of his life there. I was married on a beach in the west African country of Benin. During my family’s many years living in Zimbabwe, we escaped to Durban or Cape Town any chance we got. Now we live in Rome and I have fallen in love with the Amalfi Coast. Luckily it is a very easy drive from Rome and we have been able to take many trips during our almost a decade living in Italy. I have spent the most time in Positano and Capri, but explore a little more of this incredible part of Italy with each trip south. When I am not enjoying time on the Amalfi Coast, I am in Rome, writing for my blog, helping others with their blogs and social media, working on my other eBook Rome for Expats and tweeting and Instagraming all the beautiful, delicious things I see. HOW TO GET TO THE AMALFI COAST

SS 163 - THE AMALFI DRIVE This is probably one of the most famous 36 kilometers/22 miles in the world. Known as the 'road of 1,000 bends' it was commissioned by King Ferdinand II of Naples and completed in 1852. Covering the towns from Sorrento to Salerno, the route is a UNESCO World Heritage sight. The entire length of the two lane road is full of tight turns, sheer drops and narrow passes. The views of crystal aquamarine water below and the pastel towns clinging to the cliffs will take your breath away. I love being a passenger on this road, the faster around the curves the better. If you decide to drive, here be aware that the SITA bus drivers and locals know the road and their vehicle to the centimeter, just let them pass you. Be patient and confident and you will enjoy the drive. In high summer parts of the road can be very slow, particularly around Positano and Amalfi. There are lots of places to pull off to the side for a break and to take a picture. Look out for local farmers who bring truckloads of lemons, chili peppers and tomatoes to sell.

BUSES

Marozzi Bus Swift and Economical Largo Guido Mazzoni, Rome One Way €21

Last summer I discovered an easy, affordable, fast option to get to Amalfi Coast from Rome. There is a bus that goes straight from Rome to Positano (and beyond all the way to Amalfi) This option skips Naples all together. Operated by Marozzi, the air-conditioned, comfortable bus leaves Rome’s Tibertina bus station (directly across the road from the Tibertina Train station – There are no signs) at 7:00 am every morning. Be prepared and persistent and patient. There is very little information at the bus station. Go to the main ticket booth and confirm which stallo the bus is leaving from. I left from Stallo 6. It was pretty easy to figure out which bus was mine. The group gathered at stallo 6 was a mix of young honeymooners and tourists and Italians in Positano shirts and sandals. There is a quick coffee/bathroom break at an Autogrill after about an hour. By 10:25 you catch your first glimpse of Vesuvius and the sea. If you love a view, make sure you get a window seat on the right side of the bus. We changed to a slightly smaller bus in Sorrento and by noon I was sitting on the terrace gazing at the turquoise sea. (Note: the website is flash and may not work on all devices)

SITA Bus Take a Ride 45 minutes € 2.50; 90 minutes € 3.80; 24 hours € 7.60; 3 days € 18.00 I love the sound of the SITA bus driver honking the horn as he navigates the incredibly tight spaces along the Amalfi Coast road, the SS163. It is a sound I associate with summer. The SITA bus Line covers the following routes Sorrento- Priora- Sant'Agata / Sant'Agata- Massa Lubrense-Sorrento / Amalfi- Positano- Sorrento / Amalfi - Maiori - Salerno / Amalfi- Ravello -Scala / Amalfi- Agerola / Amalfi- Pogerola. You MUST buy your ticket before you board the bus. You can buy tickets at bars, tobacconists, kiosks, some hotels and at the automatic ticket machines in larger towns at the SITA and Circumvesuviana ticket offices. You can buy a ticket for a single ride on up to a three day pass. These buses can get very crowded and hot during high season.

FERRYS AND HYDROFOILS Take to the Water

There is only one winding road that connects the towns of the Amalfi Coast. During the summer months you can skip the curves and the traffic and head for the open seas. There are multiple ferry services connecting Naples, the Islands, and all the way to Salerno. It is an enjoyable way to travel in the fresh air, sunshine and clear teal colored waters. Different companies service different routes and towns.

Always double check the departure times. The turnaround is incredible fast, give yourself a little extra time before the scheduled times. In spring weather can affect crossings and cause cancellations. Not all Ferry/Hydrofoil companies accept credit cards. Make sure you have cash to buy your tickets. Early morning and late evening boats fill up fast, buy your ticket the night before if possible.

Alicost S.p.A. Early Boat from Positano to Capri +39 089 811 986 One Way: Amalfi > Positano € 8,00. Positano > Capri € 17,40 This ferry service has a (just) before 9:00 am departure from Positano to Capri so you can make the most of your day on the Island. There is scheduled service between Salerno, Amalfi, Positano, Capri, Sorrento and Ischia.

Alilauro spa. Book Ahead Ferry Service +39 089 875092 (Positano) One Way Positano - Capri € 18,90 Round Trip € 36,30

Scheduled daily service from Naples, Ischia, Sorrento, Capri, Amalfi and Positano. You can book online ahead of your trip. Their Facebook page is regularly updated with news, events and weather reports.

Gescab Take a Mini-Cruise on the Amalfi Coast +39 0817041921 Positano - Capri One Way € 17,40 Roundtrip € 34,80 Minicruise € 34,00

This ferry company has fast hydrofoil boats and slightly slower ferries. Scheduled service from Naples, Sorrento, Ischia, Positano, Amalfi and Salerno. There is also a daily mini-cruise in the Bay of Naples that leaves from Sorrento in the morning or Amalfi in the afternoon.

Ferry from Positano to Capri and Private Boat Excursions Via del Brigantino, 9 Positano +39 089 875 032 Amalfi > Positano One Way € 9,00 Round Trip € 18,00 Positano > Capri One Way € 18,50 Round Trip € 34,00

This is usually the ferry that we take to get to Capri from Positano. They also have a fleet of smaller boats that can be rented for private excursions along the coast. Travelmar Ferry between Salerno, Maiori, Minori, Amalfi & Positano +39 089 87 29 50 Amalfi - Positano € 8,00 Travel Mar has scheduled boat service between Positano, Amalfi, Minori, Maiori and Salerno. This ferry company has a super useful Facebook page with events and weather and schedule updates for the entire Amalfi Coast.

TRAINS Circumvesuviana Light Rail from Naples to Sorrento One Way Ticket € 4.10

While not technically the Amalfi Coast the Circumvesuviana is an economic choice for getting there. From the Naples main train station follow the signs to the Circumvesuviana, which is a light rail train serving Pompei, Herculeam and Paestum with the line ending in Sorrento. Here is a list of all of the stops. Napoli ↔ Sorrento Napoli Garibaldi Napoli Barra San Giorgio Portici Bellavista Ercolano Scavi - Herculaneum Excavations Ercolano – Miglio d’Oro Torre del Greco Trecase Torre Annuziata Oplonti – Oplontis Excavations Pompeii Scavi Villa Misteri - Pompeii Excavations Castellammare – Stabian Excavations (Via Nocera then Bus 1 Rosso) Vico Equense Meta Piano di Sorrento Sant’Agnello Sorrento

To travel farther along the coast from Sorrento you can take the SITA Bus, Ferry, Hydrofoil, or private driver to your destination.

Fast Trains Get to the Amalfi Coast Quickly

The most well known method of getting to the Amalfi Coast is to take the train down to Naples. The Frecciarossa and the swish new Italo train take just over an hour to Napoli Centrale from Rome. This route can involve a slightly clumsy step of getting to the nearby Port in Naples (Beverello or Mergallina) by taxi or metro to catch a ferry to one of the towns along the Amalfi Coast; Or taking the light rail Circumvesuviana to Sorrento and then the public SITA bus. You can also hire a private driver to met you at the train station. The upshot is you can make a quick stop for pizza or a sfogliatella in Naples.

PRIVATE CARS

Jack the Driver The Amalfi Coast Made Easy +39 339.17.18.140 From €120 for transfers. From €220 for tours and excursions

Have Jack pick you up at the Naples airport or train station and whisk you directly to your hotel on the Amalfi Coast. Jack - Gioacchino - Colonna was born in Sorrento and has been driving professionally since 1995. He knows every curve and bend of the legendary SS163. On a cruise? A car can meet you at the port for shore excursions to Pompeii - Sorrento - Positano and many other spots. Chose from a day of archeological sites, or shopping and home cooked meal. Jack and his team can even help you get to Capri and show you around when you get there. Jack has a fleet of luxury sedans and vans for larger groups up to 20 people. You can book, and pay, for your transfer and tours ahead of time online.

Positano Car Service via Cristofo Colombo 2 +39 089 875 541

This Positano based private car and taxi service can take care of all of your transportation needs while you are on the coast.