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Two Years in Kurdistan

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Two Years in Kurdistan Presented to the LIBRARIES of the UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO by THE LEGISLATIVE LIBRARY OF ONTARIO TWO YEARS IN KURDISTAN Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2009 with funding from Ontario Council of University Libraries http://www.archive.org/details/twoyearsinkurdisOOhayw Fronthpkcc] J'hoto : G. C. Bcresford. SIR A. T. WILSON, K C I.E., C-S.I., CMC, D-S.O. TWO YEARS IN KURDISTAN Experiences of a Political Officer 1918-1920 by ^^Tive^ W. R. Hay a"--^ ^^in, attached 24th Punjabis, Swtic^ Dept., Government of India ^^^ "" ^^TARio 43815 48815 LONDON: SIDGWICK & JACKSON, LTD. 3, ADA^JSV1CE^ry ADELPHI, W.C. 1921 ^ ONTARIO i 2006 ^1 29 I TO THE MEMORY OF THE BRITISH OFFICERS AND NON-GAZETTED OFFICIALS OF THE CIVIL ADMINISTRATION OF MESOPOTAMIA WHO IN THE YEARS I9I9 AND I92O IN THE SERVICE OF THEIR COUNTRY AND OF THE PEOPLE COMMITTED TO THEIR CARE LAID DOWN THEIR LIVES THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED ; PREFACE Wherever possible in the pages that follow the recognised method of transHteration for Arabic and Persian place-names has been followed. It has been necessary, however, to make some variation in the case of Turkish and Kurdish names. The spelling " Koi " has been used throughout instead of the more usual " Keui," as it is simpler and approximates more nearly to the actual pronunciation. No Bibliography is given, and the only books other than ordinary works of reference which have " been consulted are C. J. Rich's Residence in Koordistan," 1836, and Major E. B. Soane's "To Mesopotamia and Kurdistan in Disguise," 1912. Two appendices will be found at the end of the volume, in one of which a brief account of the administrative system of the Turkish Empire is given, and in the other a summary of events in Mesopotamia from the Turkish Armistice in October, 191 8, to the end of 1920. The author wishes to acknowledge the assistance rendered to him, firstly, by Sir A. T. Wilson, K.C.I.E., C.S.I. ,C.M.G., D.S.O., through whose en- couragement chiefly this book came to be written and secondly, by Captain C. A. G. Rundle, M.C., who amongst other things has kindly consented to correct the proofs. To Captain F. C. de L. Kirk he owes a great debt for permission to reproduce his admirable viii PREFACE views of the Rawanduz district. It is regretted that it is only possible to use a few of the magnificent photographs which he took in that neighbourhood. The contributions of Major E. Noel, CLE., and Captain J. A. H. Miller, R.A.M.C.,are also gratefully acknowledged, especially the latter's portrait of Hama Agha. For a few of the illustrations the author is uncertain as to whom he is indebted, and would apologise for using them without the photographer's permission. The author further wishes to express his gratitude to Miss Sybil Abram, of Reading, for typing his almost illegible manuscript, and to the publishers for the kind consideration they have shown towards him throughout his dealings with them. CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGB I. Introductory i II. Geographical: Fauna and Flora . 13 III. The Kurds 35 IV. The Tribe 65 V. The Population of the Towns, and other Races 81 VI. Agriculture and Trade 95 VII. Altun Keupri, and First Visit to Arbil . .110 VIII. Koi AND Rania 125 IX. Visit to the Khushnao, and Other Tours . 145 X. Arbil again 159 XI. Formation of the Arbil Division . .179 XII. Rawanduz and the Gorge 191 XIII. YusuF Beg 204 XIV. Three Quiet Months 225 XV. Visits to Rawanduz and the Persian Frontier 237 XVI. NuRi : THE Death of Two Great Men . .267 XVII. The Beginning of the Trouble . .281 XVIII. The Storm Bursts 310 XIX. Khurshid Agha keeps his Word .... 325 — X CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGE XX. Reconstruction 348 XXI. Conclusion 360 Appendix A. Administrative System of the Turkish Empire 369 Appendix B.—Summary of the Events in Mesopotamia from the Armistice to the End of 1920 . 371 Index 373 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Sir a. T. Wilson, K.C.I. E., C.S.I., C.M.G., D.S.O. Frontispiece (From a photosraph by G. C. Beres/ord, by permissioft) TO FACE PACE Ox THE Persian Road 14 (Showing Kola Dagk. Photo Capt. Kirk) Kurds of the Rawanduz District 42 {Photo Capt. Kirk) Kurdish Women and Children 42 {Two photos by Capt. Miller') Christian Women of Koi 90 {Photo Capt. Miller) Arbil, from the South, Altitude 1,000 Feet , . .116 {Aeroplane photo by R.A.V., Mesopotamia^ reproduced by special permission of the Air Ministry) "For he was got to a Sleepy Mood" (Hama Agha) . 128 {Phot» Capt. Miller) A View of Koi 132 (Photo Capt. Miller) A Koi Mulla 150 {Photo Capt. Miller) The Kushnao Chiefs . 150 {Photo Capt. Tozer) The Gorge of Rawanduz 200 {Photo Capt. Ki> /.) Ismail Beg 208 Muhammad Ali Agha 208 {Photos by tlie Author) The only Road to Rawanduz from the North . 222 {Photo Capt. Kirk) Rawanduz Gendarmes 238 {Photo Capt. Kirk) Gorge of the Greater Zab at Bardin 238 {Photo Capt. Kirk) xii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS TO FACE PAGE Argot Dagh from the South, June, 1919 . .252 (PJiote Capt. Kirk) The Spring of Zindian 260 {Pheto Major Neet) Akoyan 260 {,Phcto Capt. Kirk) Entrance to the Gorge from the Rawanduz End . 286 [Photo Capt. Kirk) "Jov-Wheel" used at Koi during the"Id,"i9I9 . 324 MULLA HaWAIZ AGHA OF KOI 324 {Two pfiotos by Capt. Miller) Remains of Lower Town, Rawanduz 324 {Photo Capt. Kirk) The dotted lines indicate the area shown In the Map of the Arbil Division, which will be found at the end of the volume. *' I have always made a rule of conforming to the native customs, so far as my conscience and the honour of my country would admit." —Rich, Residence in Koordistan. — TWO YEARS IN KURDISTAN CHAPTER I INTRODUCTORY " Travelling, in the Younger Sort, is a part of Education ; in the Elder, a part of Experience." Bacon : Essays. During recent generations to comparatively few has come the chance of exploring unmapped wilds and living on terms of close intimacy with strange and unrecorded tribes. Despite the attractions and in- fluence of modern life many of us in England still feel the promptings of the Elizabethan spirit—the call of the uncharted sea, the fascination of what is new and mysterious. And those who have had the glorious opportunity of treading the untrod, and seeing the unseen, must be pardoned if, bursting with their experiences, they endeavour to describe them for the delectation of their fellows, and put their hands to the pen, be they never such unready writers. Such, then, is the author's apology for writing this book—a book which contains no erudition, no traces of midnight oil, no deep thinking—but an egotistical record of things seen and done. During the last three years it has been the writer's fortune to serve in the Civil Administration of Mesopotamia, always in more or less remote parts of the country. Mesopo- tamia, though by no means unmapped, was before the war to most people terra incognita. Baghdad B 2 TWO YEARS IN KURDISTAN was the capital of the land of fairy tales, the Arabs we pictured spurring fiery steeds over the trackless desert, while the Kurd we had never heard of, or heard of only as the wildest of brigands. As the army advanced from Basra into the interior, political officers were sent to all the important centres to serve as intermediaries between the military authorities and the people. With the Armistice military considerations assumed less importance ; administration and the maintenance of law and order amongst the tribes became our chief aims in Meso- potamia. The Political Department, which had formerly occupied a very subordinate position, began almost to rival G.H.Q., and absorbed in quick succession other departments, such as Irrigation, Posts, Telegraphs, and Railways. Until Sir Percy Cox arrived in vSeptember, 1920, however, the Com- mander-in-Chief was supreme, and Mesopotamia after the Armistice remained, and still remains," in a state of war." Many attacks have been made during the last year on the Civil Administration of Mesopotamia, but it is not proposed to comment on them. It is one of the writer's chief objects in this book to avoid all controversial matter. As to whether these attacks were justified or not, he does not proffer an opinion. Neither will he endeavour in any detail to trace the causes of the recent disturbances ; and above all he will refrain from recording his callow convictions as to the best policy for the future. All he desires is to carry his reader for a moment to a remote land, where he may share with him his delight at seeing strange things and talking to strange men, and may live with him through such adventures and hours of danger as it was his fortune to experience. It is fitting here to make mention of Sir Arnold Wilson, who acted as head of the Civil Administration INTRODUCTORY 3 in Mesopotamia from March, 1918, to September, 1920, through the period of its greatest expansion and up to and including the time of its greatest troubles. To the writer and most of us in " The Political," Sir Arnold Wilson besides being our *' chief " was a personal friend, and the author and begetter of our efforts and ambitions. There must be few men who can exact so much willing work from their sub- ordinates, and it is doubtful if there is any man who could have borne such a burden of work and responsibility as he did, or have faced so many difficulties in the spirit of the motto on the wall of his office, *' aequam memento rebus in arduis servare mentem." Subsequently to the Armistice, Mesopotamia or 'Iraq, which is its local name, was divided for the purposes of administration into thirteen divisions, each under a Political Officer directly responsible to the Civil Commissioner at Baghdad.
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