The stunning is a Critically Endangered with a population below 800 individuals, and was only described new to science in 1974 (Dave Jackson, tour participant)

SOUTHERN & CENTRAL

21 NOVEMBER – 8/12 DECEMBER 2017

LEADER: MARK PEARMAN

Seventy-six stunning Hooded Grebes at a new breeding colony on a remote Patagonian steppe lake was a mind-blowing experience. Now at fewer than 800 , from a global population of 5000 when first discovered in 1974, the species is currently classified as Critically Endangered. Many of the grebes were either sitting on or nest-building, and we also had a pair display right infront of us, with typical synchronized neck-twisting, and unusual crest raising accompanied by a unique and almost magical windhorn chorus. Birdquest missed the species altogether in 2016, managed great looks in 2014, 2011 and notably of breeding birds in 2009 at what is now an unsuitable breeding lake. Put into perspective, we count ourselves very lucky at witnessing this lifetime experience.

The grebes came nicely off the cusp of a long journey which began with a string of goodies in Córdoba including both Cordoba and Olrog’s Cinclodes, as well as Spot-winged Falconet, Blue-tufted Starthroat, the ! ! 1 BirdQuest Tour Report: Southern & Central Argentina 2017 www.birdquest-tours.com wonderful endemic Salinas Monjita, stunning Olive-crowned Crescentchest, delightful Black-and-chestnut Warbling and one of South Americas rarest woodpeckers, the elusive Black-bodied Woodpecker.

A brief incursion into southern Entre Rios province produced Stripe-backed Bittern, several White-naped Xenopsaris and fifteen Ringed Teal before we began our journey through Buenos Aires province. Top birds in the Pampas included both Red-and-white and Dot-winged Crakes, South American Painted Snipe, Olrog's Gull, the delightful Bearded Tachuri, Bay-capped -Spinetail, Sulphur-bearded Spinetail, the declining Pampas as well as poorly known Hudson's Canastero and Pampas Pipit. Further south, the calden woodland provided us with five endemics breeders including Hudson's Black Tyrant, Straneck's Tyrannulet, White-banded Mockingbird, Carbonated Sierra Finch and Cinnamon Warbling Finch. Now officially in , we soon added three more endemics in a morning including White-throated Cacholote, Sandy Gallito (displaying!), and Patagonian Canastero plus the stunning Black-crowned Monjita; yet another endemic breeder. Further south we enjoyed the endemic Rusty-backed Monjita, near endemic Band-tailed Earthcreeper, thousands of Magellanic Penguins and the flightless endemic Chubut Steamer . Highlights in Santa Cruz province, other than the amazing Hooded Grebes included Spectacled Duck, Magellanic Plover, and Rufous-legged Owl.

The extension was also a huge success with point blank walk-away views of White-bellied , Ruddy-headed Goose, a variety of seabirds and seaducks, plus a superb adult King Penguin in a breeding colony of Gentoos.

In all we recorded some 346 species (2 heard only) of which 44 were only seen on the pre-tour Cordoba extension and 18 were only seen on the post-tour Tierra del Fuego extension. Among 16 species of encountered, the very local Wolffsohn's stood out.

The pre-tour extension got underway from Córdoba city with a short drive into the foothills of the Sierras Grandes. One of the first species to show was a pair of splendid Chaco Puffbirds as we rapidly added many common species including , Spot-winged Pigeon, Picui Ground Dove, Eared Dove, Southern Crested and Chimango Caracaras, American Kestrel, Monk Parakeet, Small-billed Elaenia, Bran-coloured Flycatcher, Great Kiskadee, Crowned Slaty Flycatcher, House Wren, Masked Gnatcatcher, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Chiguanco Thrush, Screaming and Shiny Cowbirds, Greyish Baywing, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Red Pileated Finch and Saffron Finch. Even by late morning there was plenty of activity and both Brushland and Andean were calling in the area as we concentrated on many of the more skulking species managing great looks at Chotoy, Pale-breasted and Stripe-crowned Spinetails, Southern Beardless and White-crested Tyrannulets, the near endemic and soon-to-be split Stripe-capped Sparrow and scope views of a stunning Many-coloured Chaco Finch. As a trio of Tawny-headed Swallows circled us there were many showy birds on offer as well with Campo Flicker, the boisterous Brown Cacholote, amazing Scimitar- billed Woodcreeper (what a snoz!), Blue-and-yellow , Black-capped Warbling Finch and Golden- billed Saltator. Not a bad start at all!

In the afternoon we ventured above the treeline into the sierran , soon connecting with widespread species such as Southern Lapwing, Picazuro Pigeon, Rufous Hornero, Cattle Tyrant, Tropical Kingbird, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Grey-breasted Martin, Rufous-bellied Thrush and Hooded Siskin. A close perched adult Black-chested Buzzard Eagle was an eye-opener for many while we enjoyed the immaculate White Monjita, the evocatively named Firewood-gatherer complete with its huge stick nest, and the local, endemic race of Long-tailed Meadowlark. Finally, David, who had his flight cancelled and then missed a connection, managed to catch up with the group at dinner.

Our primary reason for visiting these mountains was to seek out two endemic cinclodes and after an early breakfast we were soon heading up to a 2000 metre-high plateau. A first roadside stop produced juvenile Andean Condors, a flock of White-collared Swifts and a brief overhead flight view of Grey-hooded Parakeet which would be the only one of the tour. Dave got us onto a pair of perched Peregrines of the resident cassini race. Roadside pools provided us with scope studies of many White-winged Coots, Plumbeous Rail, Yellow-billed Pintail and, surprisingly, some sixteen White-cheeked Pintail. Impressive numbers of Black- chested Buzzard Eagles and several Variable Hawks lined the roadside as Southern Martins and Blue-and- ! ! 2 BirdQuest Tour Report: Southern & Central Argentina 2017 www.birdquest-tours.com white Swallows sailed overhead. The highest grasslands where thriving with Spectacled Tyrants and Long- tailed and it was not long before we connected with the endemic Cordoba Cinclodes and an endemic race of White-winged Cinclodes. Here too in a rocky moonscape we added Plumbeous Sierra Finch, Puna and Cordilleran Canastero, as well White-winged Black Tyrant and Hellmayr's Pipit. Lower down we found a pair of the endemic Olrog's Cinclodes while stops on the west slope added the skulking Chaco Earthcreeper, an endemic race of Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant, a pair of Cliff Flycatcher and Band-tailed Seedeater, while a lunch stop produced a female Blue-tufted Starthroat. Just down the road we headed up into rainshadow woodland where we soon homed in on feeding Blue-crowned Parakeets, Swainson's Flycatcher, Creamy-bellied Thrush, Red-eyed (Chivi) Vireo and a male Hepatic Tanager (alias Red Tanager). Our main target here was the secretive Andean Slaty Thrush which was singing even in the heat of the day. After some searching we had amazing views of a male coming in to drink at a small pool of water, while some also managed views of a female.

Next we headed north to the Sierras Chicas to start our search for one of 's rarest woodpeckers, the *blackbody* and a host of other species. The forest here was superb and mixed with carandilla palms although our driver wasn't at all keen on the ever narrowing track and scratchy algarrobo thorn trees. Soon we saw three different Green-barred Woodpeckers, added a male Glittering-bellied Emerald and some White-tipped Doves and the stunning and localised Black-and-chestnut Warbling Finch; the only one of the tour. Finally we reached Mark's crescentchest site and had immediate response, followed by absolutely mind-blowing at-your-feet views of this crippling skulker to round off an extraordinary day's birding.

At dawn, we were driving through dry chaco thorn woodlands to reach the Salinas Grandes; a vast salt pan of over 200 sq km. One of our main targets, the bizarre Spot-winged Falconet, performed almost immediately. Brushland Tinamous were in good voice and we managed distant views of one crossing the track. A next stop ensured us a pair of smart of, the now local, Black-crested as well as Crested Hornero, the enigmatic Lark-like Brushrunner, Tufted Tit-Spinetail, Narrow-billed Woodcreeper, Suiriri Flycatcher and Greater Wagtail-Tyrant. With the temperature quickly rising we had to move on towards our prime target, the endemic Salinas Monjita, described new to science in 1979. As soon as we stepped out of the bus, David got onto one distant in record time and eventually we were treated to close up views of a smart pair. Our next strategy was to the bird the chaco woodlands until it got too hot, or until the got too bad, whichever came first! The birding was still prolific and we added Guira Cuckoo, White-fronted and Checkered Woodpeckers, Tawny-crowned Pygmy Tyrant, Southern Scrub, Streaked and Brown-crested Flycatchers, stunning White-tipped Plantcutter with its unforgetable *creaky door* voice, Variable Oriole and this time, point blank views of the smart Many-coloured Chaco Finch. Mission completed and we were on our way back to the hippified town of Capilla del Monte.

Of course we had unfinished business in the forest, and a wander around the edge of town produced Variable Antshrike and the stunning Red-tailed Comet. Suddenly Rita found the mega we had all been longing for as a female Black-bodied Woodpecker foraged on tall trunks close to the track. It didn't hang around for long but everyone managed great views but we would not see it again. Further on we could hear a distant Crested Gallito, a bird we had already heard from a far. Now that we were on a hillside, the gameplan changed and as it turned out, this gallito wanted to see the Birdquest group so much so that he climbed the tallest tree, allowing us to get unimaginable scope views of this chunky and skulking . Back in town, we connected a smart Brown-capped Whitestart and a superb male Blue-tufted Starthroat in a resident's garden. The owner was a little bewildered to start with but she was very welcoming when we explained and most happy that the starthroat was in her garden.

With a little time in the morning before making the hop back to Buenos Aires, we headed back into the hills and checked a nearby reservoir which held our first Great Grebes and Neotropic Cormorant as well as Burrowing Owls. Finally everyone managed a view of Andean flushing at close range, a species which we had heard daily but only two of the group had seen. The 4-day pre-tour extension had been a huge success with all the major targets under the belt.

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Salinas Monjita, endemic to the edge of a few saltpans in central Argentina (Mark Pearman)

Top 5 birds of the Córdoba pre-tour extension: 1. Olive-crowned Crescentchest 2. Black-bodied Woodpecker 2. Salinas Monjita 4. Spot-winged Falconet 5. Crested Gallito

Now in the Pampas biogeographical zone at the start of the main tour, we hooked up with the rest of the group and spent our first day in the Parana Delta with its marshes and espinal woodlands before driving back to downtown Buenos Aires. As soon as we reached the woodlands our first target was the widespread, yet very localized (in S. America as a whole) White-naped Xenopsaris and we managed very obliging views. Here too we added Short-billed Canastero and White-winged Becard while those not present on the pre-tour extension caught up with White-fronted and Checkered Woodpeckers, Tufted Tit-Spinetail and the glorious Scimitar-billed Woodcreeper. As soon as we entered the marshes, the shear abundance of birds was shocking for some with hoards of Southern Screamers, Fulvous Whistling Duck, Brazilian Teal, fifteen highly prized Ringed Teal, Silver Teal, Yellow-billed Teal, abundant Rosy-billed Pochard, nine superb Masked Duck, large numbers of Wood and Maguari Storks, Bare-faced and White-faced Ibises, Roseate Spoonbills, Rufescent Tiger-, the highly sought-after Stripe-backed Bittern, Black-crowned , Striated and Cocoi , Great and Snowy Egrets and some managed an Anhinga. Over one hundred Snail Kites patrolled as Giant Wood Rails and Limpkins trotted around, while the vast floating mat of hyacinth was crawling with Wattled Jacanas, White-backed Stilts, several Pectoral Sandpipers, a Lesser Yellowlegs and we scoped a South American Snipe. Sneaking in the reeds, rushes and last patches of riverine woodland we ! ! 4 BirdQuest Tour Report: Southern & Central Argentina 2017 www.birdquest-tours.com soon found Yellow-chinned Spinetail, Wren-like Rushbird, Sooty Tyrannulet, Warbling Doradito (now a veritable pampas endemic, after the splitting off of the much more widespread Ticking Doradito), Vermillion (Scarlet) Flycatcher, Black-backed Water Tyrant, Southern Yellowthroat, Solitary Cacique, Yellow-winged and Chestnut-capped Blackbirds, Brown-and-yellow Marshbird, Red-crested and Yellow-billed Cardinals, Sayaca Tanager, smart Black-and-rufous Warbling Finch and a displaying Yellow Finch. Aerial birds included Ringed Kingfisher, White-rumped Swallow and American Cliff Swallow. And that was just our breakfast birding!

A brief stop at Otamendi produced Whistling Heron, Long-winged Harrier, Roadside Hawk, Dark-billed Cuckoo, White Woodpecker (a rarity in Buenos Aires province!), Curve-billed Reedhaunter, almost luminescent Scarlet-headed Blackbird and Pampa Finch. In downtown BA we added both Coscoroba and Black-necked Swans in decent numbers as well as White-faced Whistling Duck, a lone female Ringed Teal (to add to our tally), both Pied-billed and White-tufted Grebes, Harris's Hawk, a smart and often overlooked Spot-flanked Gallinule, Red-fronted Coot and Nanday Parakeet.

Heading south in the morning our first target was the often tricky Red-and-white Crake. The water levels were high in the forest making access difficult and we only heard one bird which came close but remained hidden. We would have to expand our search, after adding several new birds including Spix's Spinetail, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Tropical Parula while some also managed Buff-browed Foliage-gleaner, Golden-crowned Warbler and Grey-throated Warbling Finch. Our chances of seeing the crake were diminishing and it was looking more and more unlikely until Mark spotted some promising habitat. Here we had immediate response and a Red-and-white Crake walked out briefly in the open allowing most of the group a reasonable view.

It was time to head for San Clemente and after crossing the vast city of La Plata with a population of almost 1 million; we were out in the true Pampas. This is when it struck some folk on the immensity of the landscape and the big sky, and someone asked whether there would be houses along the road through Patagonia. The answer was of course No, and that we would only see a few towns and few people between now and the end of the tour. Roadside birding and several lake stops produced White-tailed Kite, Lake Duck and many Red-gartered Coot and our only Yellow-browed Tyrant of the tour. A stop at one estancia revealed our first Spotted and good numbers of American Golden Plovers in the grassland, as well as numerous White-browed Blackbirds and our first Correndera Pipits. Our main target here was the range-restricted Hudson's Canastero, a Pampas endemic, with two obliging well. Here too, David got us onto a stunning male Bearded Tachuri in almost exactly the same spot as on the 2015 tour. Nearer to the coast, along a tidal river, we added Hudsonian Godwit, Greater Yellowlegs, Black Skimmers fishing with their mandible slicing the water, and numerous Brown-hooded Gulls when suddenly the grasshopper-like buzzy trill of a Bay-capped Wren-Spinetail lead to unexpected point blank views in the grass verge along the main road.

Punta Rasa, where the Rio de la Plata meets the Atlantic Ocean is a well known birding hotspot. Not only does it hold the typical fluffy-plumed stands of Cortaderia pampas grass, but has a tidal Spartina saltmarsh while the estuary acts as a magnet to shorebirds, gulls, terns and skuas with numerous vagrants having been found. This morning it didn't take long before we had bagged two Pampas specialties, Sulphur-bearded Spinetail and Freckle-breasted Thornbird, with more looks at the dinky Bay-capped Wren-Spinetail and several Grass while a smart Cinereous Harrier cruised by, but we were drawing a blank with the enigmatic Dot-winged crake at a usual site. Heading to the shore we soon added American Oystercatcher, Grey and Semipalmated Plovers, Ruddy Turnstone, Sanderling, Baird's Sandpiper and a Willet. Gulls and terns were in strong evidence with Grey-hooded and Brown-hooded, many Kelp and just a lone juvenile Olrog's Gull, plus Royal and Common Terns and a single Cabot's Tern. Southern Giant Petrels patrolled close inshore and we also watched a Chilean Skua, and then it happened. Fernando had slowed down a little too much in a soft section of sand and we were grounded. Eventually the hotel owner towed us out but in the meantime we not only found a new site for Dot-winged Crake, but also got blinding views of it. Back in town, we enjoyed the obligatory White-throated while munching on some tasty empanadas. In the afternoon we were back out in the pampas grasslands scoping Buff-breasted Sandpipers and Snowy- crowned Terns. A male was found and we also enjoyed the stunning Many-coloured Rush-

! ! 5 BirdQuest Tour Report: Southern & Central Argentina 2017 www.birdquest-tours.com Tyrant as we embarked on a coordinated bash for South American Painted Snipe. We were not going to give up under any circumstances, and although a few lingered too far from the main group, after a couple of hours we finally flushed the boy at point blank range enjoying the gold-striped back, bulbous head and drooping bill as a painted snipe flew off with its typical zig-zag bat-like flight.

Given the distances involved in driving the whole length of Patagonia, the next day was mainly a driving day, yet we did manage to slot two Red-winged Tinamous and a Yellow Armadillo en route with some flight views of a singing Pampas Pipit. On reaching Bahia Blanca we still had time to visit the estuary to get decent views of adult Olrog's Gulls; infact thirty-five of them with many close-ups. Here too, we got to grips with Sharp- billed Canastero, Tufted Tit-Tyrant and Patagonian Mockingbird before we had to call it a day.

Olrog's Gull is a crab specialist with the World population breeding almost exclusively on a few islands off Bahia Blanca in southern Buenos Aires province (Mark Pearman)

The next morning would hail our only chance for the *Vulnerable* . Traditional sites no longer, or rarely, hold the bird and we are forced to go offroad which in a bus can become tricky if it rains. Fernando and Diego did a fine job to get us to the top site in slippery mud where we managed to see eight or more displaying Pampas Meadowlarks in direct comparison with Long-tailed Meadowlarks, enjoying all the finer details of unpublished and morphological identification. Winners! Here too we saw our first Darwin's and some caught up with Firewood-gatherer.

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The threatened Pampas Meadowlark has declined massively over most of its former range, and it is still becoming harder to find (Dave Jackson).

More Darwin's Nothuras were to come before lunch as we reached the caldén woodlands where we quickly hoovered an astonishing five endemics. They just fell like dominoes; White-banded Mockingbirds were everywhere as were Straneck's Tyrannulets. Next we clocked displaying Hudson's Black Tyrant and had several Cinnamon Warbling Finch simultaneously and before we knew it there were three unexpected displaying male Carbonated Sierra Finches. The area had suffered from a huge fire just two years previous yet the new growth and our perfect timing and some cloud shadow somehow made for a sweet clean-up. Here too, non pre-tour birders caught up with Crested Gallito, Common Diuca Finch and Ringed Warbling Finch. With increasing numbers of delightful macaw-like Burrowing Parrots we reached the coastal enclave of Las Grutas. The parrots were infact particularly fond of the area around our hotel, some roosting or breeding in the cliff, from where a brief seawatch produced forty Manx Shearwaters.

In the morning, the low scrub surrounding town has never looked like a good birding destination, yet it is always heaving and is an absolute must for endemics on any Patagonian tour. Not just one, but unexpectedly five gorgeous Black-crowned Monjitas were enjoyed to the full; a bird we have invariably missed. Checking the many gullies, we were able to compare Hudson's with White-winged Black Tyrant behaviourally, vocally and structurally, and then one of our prime targets, the endemic Sandy Gallito responded well and put on a top show, at close range. Fully satisfied we were just about to leave when Mark heard the endemic White-throated Cacholote singing in the distance. The species isn't common here, yet we were able to track down a pair for great scope studies. Adding a smart pair of Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrants and even both Grey-bellied and Lesser Shrike-Tyrants in the process; birds we usually wouldn't encounter until further south, we decided to head back to the vehicle. Again we had to backtrack, this time to gloat at a

! ! 7 BirdQuest Tour Report: Southern & Central Argentina 2017 www.birdquest-tours.com singing endemic Patagonian Canastero. Back in the bus, we stopped to enjoy our first Elegant Crested Tinamous with their crested chicks; tinamou chicks are miniature replicas of the adults.

The macaw-like Burrowing Parrot is a common and widespread, cliff-nesting Argentine near-endemic (Dave Jackson). Below, The often tricky, endemic breeder, Black-crowned Monjita; some Palace supporters will go to any lengths (Mark Pearman)

! ! 8 BirdQuest Tour Report: Southern & Central Argentina 2017 www.birdquest-tours.com Time to scoot..., and a few hours later we reached the famous Valdes Peninsula. Almost immediately we came across our first Lesser Rheas with great views of four close to the road. No sooner did we arrive at Puerto Piramides (the peninsula's only town; more of a village) did we embark on a whale watching trip. We were at the end of season for Southern Right Whales, most having migrated, though we did manage many close-ups of a mother and calf. With an abundance of Southern Giant Petrels at sea, we visited a variety of rock shelfs and islets producing Rock and Imperial Shags, Blackish Oystercatcher, the shockingly blood red- billed Dolphin Gull and (especially for Tom!) six Snowy Sheathbills feeding on unmentionables at a South American Sea Lion hauling ground.

Southern Right Whale off the Valdes Peninsula (Mark Pearman)

Following in the footsteps of Darwin and of course Sir David, our day on the peninsula was productive, interspersed with inevitable spells of wind, considering we were really out in mid ocean. Our first major target was the smart endemic Rusty-backed Monjita (cousin to Salinas Monjita) and with a concerted effort we eventually managed boss views. Common Miners were flying off the road in numbers while Maras were bouncing around or sitting on their haunches, hurrying their pups into communal burrows. A Scale-throated Earthcreeper was seen before reaching the headland where we scrutinized a few hundred South American Sea Lions and Elephant Seals but alas the bull Elephants had already left for the Antarctic. A colony of Magellanic Penguins held at least one hundred and twenty birds from where we scoped some Crested and a pair of Flying Steamer Ducks, Suddenly a male Patagonian Yellow Finch provided much interest. After decent looks at a Large Hairy Armadillo we visited a saline depression where we scoped six smart Two-banded Plovers. Back at the Loberia we enjoyed scope studies of Snowy Sheathbill, Dolphin Gull and Blackish Oystercatcher.

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The bizarre looking Patagonian Mara is a very large that sits on its haunches but travels with springing jumps on all fours (Mark Pearman)

In the morning we first headed to Trelew sewage lagoons in search of Black-headed Duck; the World's only truly parasitic duck, eventually finding a pair as well as five Silvery Grebes among a multitude of waterfowl; in particular Red Shoveler, Yellow-billed Pintail and Lake Duck. Soon we birded the old road to Punta Tombo finding little except a pair of Magellanic Oystercatchers and the main target of the near endemic Band-tailed Earthcreeper which put on a great performance. Nearby we studied our first pair of endemic Chubut Steamer Ducks, described new to science in 1974. The evolution of flightless sea ducks in southern South America is a strange phenomenon with a lot of unanswered questions.

Punta Tombo was, as usual, heaving with breeding Magellanic Penguins; their noise and smell added to the experience. Another pair of Chubut Steamers and a Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail were studied before another long drive to Bahia Bustamante, adding our first Austral Negrito and Mourning Sierra Finches.

After a hearty estancia breakfast, we were out on a bleak peninsula watching our first South American Terns and another pair of Chubut Steamers when we noticed a distant Brown Skua, a bird that we could have easily left behind at Tombo. We quickly trotted out for closer views only to be cut off by a very rapidly rising tide which could have been tragic if we weren't clued up. We bid fairwell to our hosts after watching Black- chinned Siskin and Grey-hooded Sierra Finch around the farm buildings. The very long drive was mostly through wilderness although we stocked up on anything and everything in the city of Comodorro Rivadavia where we also watched ten sheathbills on the beach. En route we saw our first Upland Goose flock and several Chilean Swallows.

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A Magellanic Penguin beach party; a fragment of Punta Tombo, the World's largest colony (Dave Jackson)

Chubut , endemic to the *Welsh* Chubut province is one of four flightless ducks in the Southern Cone of South America (Mark Pearman)

! ! 11 BirdQuest Tour Report: Southern & Central Argentina 2017 www.birdquest-tours.com With the ever-changing survival tactics of the critically endangered Hooded Grebe, luckily for us Birdquest also had a completely flexible itinerary on this part of the tour so with fresh information, our plans had to change, and we embarked on another long driving day. Our destination was a new potential breeding lake where a good number of grebes had just been found and we had to get reasonably close to them today before making the final hop in four wheel drives. You don't come this far to dip on such a mega bird, and we were pulling out all the stops so long drives in the wilderness were now an everyday occurence while folk were patient and kept their fingers crossed. Since we were now in the Andean steppe, Austral Thrush was suddenly a common sight near any trees or rivers. Along amazing wilderness back roads we ensured our first Ashy-headed Geese, two Andean Condors, a male Andean Duck and two stunning Rufous-tailed Plantcutters. Here too we encountered the extremely poorly known Wolffsohn's Viscacha, a large orange , virtually endemic to this corner of Santa Cruz province. Two Humboldt's Hog-nosed Skunks, over a hundred Guanacos and a couple of Cinnamon-bellied Ground Tyrants later, we shacked up in a one horse town for what we hoped would be the day of glory.

The rare, tabby cat-sized, Wolffsohn's Viscacha is almost exclusive to one remote corner of Santa Cruz province making it one of the least known of all (Mark Pearman)

Today was the BIG day but first we had to drive onto the plateau and use three four wheel drives on very rough rocky terrain to reach the lake. We barely looked at the myriad of other lakes, knowing that they would not hold Hooded Grebes. Least Seedsnipe were plentiful and we also managed five Grey-breasted Seedsnipe. Likewise Short-billed Miner greatly outnumbered Common Miner. The grasslands were alive with smart Chocolate-vented Tyrants and stunning Tawny-throated Dotterels. Some managed brief views of a pair of Greater Yellow-Finch before we finally reached the lake.

! ! 12 BirdQuest Tour Report: Southern & Central Argentina 2017 www.birdquest-tours.com The first lake we looked at had no grebes although our host didn't immediately let on that the grebe lake was hidden beyond this one. And after a short walk, there we were admiring seventy-six magical Hooded Grebes; some on nests, others nest-building, delivering the amazing trumpetting proclamation call and even displaying. It was an unreal experience. Eventually it was time to leave and retrace our steps. Even the rocks were alive with a good variety of stunningly colourful, endemic lizards. Finally we reached an estancia for an overnight stay.

It's so very hard to imagine how the Hooded Grebe was overlooked until 1974; until one travels to the remote uninhabited breeding area (Dave Jackson).

La Angostura is famous as the site of the rediscovery of Austral Rail. The water level was much higher than usual, meaning that the rails were a little further inside the rushes making this tiny skulking rail very much harder to see. We heard three birds evening and morning and tried everything including making tunnels and getting into the rushes. Our only chance would have been a bird swimming across a channel. The closest we came may have been 3 metres, but it was just not to be. Our first pair of Black-faced Ibis bid us farewell as we headed south with growing numbers of Lesser Rheas.

El Chaltén was our next port of call, in the shadow of the towering spectacle of Mount Fitzroy. We were quick to connect with common forest species such as Thorn-tailed Rayadito, the nuthatch-like White-throated Treerunner, Chilean Flicker, Austral Parakeet, Chilean Elaenia and Patagonian Sierra Finch. An important target here was Rufous-legged Owl, and after an hour's search we secured great close-ups in the spotlight. In the morning we caught up with a pair of handsome and local Spectacled Duck, as well as Dark-bellied Cinclodes and both a pair and lone male spectacular Magellanic Woodpeckers. The first pair were really close and tame, and after an hour we had to force ourselves to leave these awesome birds.

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Awesome Spectacled Duck took a little bit of finding (Mark Pearman)

Always impressive; Magellanic Woodpecker is South America's largest woodpecker restricted to Patagonian forest (Mark Pearman) ! ! 14 BirdQuest Tour Report: Southern & Central Argentina 2017 www.birdquest-tours.com Eventually we reached a very windy El Calafate and began our search for the enigmatic Magellanic Plover. At a second site we split into two groups and quickly homed in on a pair and juvenile which were tame and amenable. These were yet another major hight of the tour.

Magellanic Plover is another must-see-wader, looks and behaves like a dove foraging in water with a population estimated around 5000 birds and given its own family status (Mark Pearman)

Top 5 birds of the main tour:- 1. Hooded Grebe 2. Magellanic Woodpecker 2. Magellanic Plover 4. Dot-winged Crake 4. Magellanic Penguin

After the short flight to Ushuaia, the post tour Tierra del Fuego extension began with a drive north to Rio Grande through impressive forest and over the back into the windswept steppe. We visited an estancia in the hope of finding Ruddy-headed Goose but there were none among the hoards of Upland Geese. A cattle pen held a Dark-faced Ground Tyrant and Buff-winged Cinclodes. On the way back, we stopped in suitable habitat and obtained great looks at Austral Canastero, as well as displaying South American Snipe.

Soon after dawn we were on the case of Rufous-chested Dotterel and managed fantastic scope studies of this magnificent wader. It was time to visit our main site for the highly threatened Ruddy-headed Goose in the extreme north of Isla Grande. After quite a drive and a labyrinth of estancia tracks, Mark knew exactly where to look and we enjoyed great looks at three birds, appreciating all the finer details of identification. Hours later, back in Ushuaia, the landfill site provided the usual entertainment of many White-throated Carcaras gorging themselves amongst Chilean Skuas and thousands of Kelp Gulls and some thirty Dolphin ! ! 15 BirdQuest Tour Report: Southern & Central Argentina 2017 www.birdquest-tours.com Gulls. On the shores of the , right beside our hotel, we enjoyed Flying Steamer Ducks, Black- browed Albatrosses as well as Magellanic Oystercatcher, Two-banded Plover and more immaculate Kelp Geese.

In the morning we drove back up the Andes and set out on a trek in search of the fabled White-bellied Seedsnipe. After a couple of hours we had traversed the forest and penetrated the krummholz out onto exposed moorland intermixed with bare scree and snow fields. There was a huge expanse of valley to cover in to find what might be one pair of what is also one the most camouflaged species imaginable. We split into two loosely parallel groups with radio communication and combed the entire valley drawing a blank. In the process, we all managed great looks at the smart Yellow-bridled finch, as well as Grey-flanked Cinclodes, Dark-faced and Ochre-naped Ground Tyrants. It was on the return trek that all our effort would be rewarded as we enjoyed point blank and unforgetable views of a magnificent pair of White-bellied Seedsnipe. Winners!

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The cryptic White-bellied Seedsnipe was the major highlight of the Tierra del Fuego extension and well worth the trek (Mark Pearman)

! ! 17 BirdQuest Tour Report: Southern & Central Argentina 2017 www.birdquest-tours.com In the morning we embarked by catamaran for a lengthy tour of the Beagle Channel; destination Martillo Island. The sheer numbers of sea-lions, shags, South American Terns and many other species provided an eye-opening spectacle. Fuegian Steam Ducks were prominent of various islets as were Kelp Geese and many Snowy Sheathbills. As we neared one islet Mark predicted that a Blackish Cinclodes would be atracted to the captain's waterjet for the windscreen wipers, a trick that he has pulled off over the years, if indeed the cinclodes is around and if you are on the right boat. We were! In our case there was a bit of Argy bargy with tourists getting mixed up in all the pushing and shoving that ensued to get decent looks at the bird. Non birders started pushing because they thought they were missing something major and pandemonium broke out. But we all got smashing views of this blocker; already split from the Falkland's Tussacbird by some and essentially not even closely related. Tubenose diversity was small with just a few Sooty Shearwaters but high numbers of Black-browed Albatross throughout the outward voyage. Nearing Martillo we suddenly saw a vagrant Franklin's Gull. Once at the island with a hundred-and-fifty strong Magellanic Penguin colony, we enjoyed some forty-eight breeding Gentoo Penguins with an awesome lone King Penguin right amongst them; good job he wasn't off fishing!

A Gentoo colony with a lone King Penguin, Martillo Island, Beagle Channel, Tierra del Fuego (Mark Pearman)

In the afternoon, we visited the magnificent Tierra del Fuego National Park in the hope of picking up the three final species that had been eluding us. Eventually we bumped into an obliging flock of Austral Blackbirds, followed by protracted looks at an Austral Pygmy Owl and after a lot of effort we were also treated to point blank views of a Magellanic Tapaculo.

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End of the road; Lapataia is the furthest south one can drive in South America.

On our final morning, we only had a couple of hours to bird just on the ouskirts of Ushuaia chiefly for a long shot Green-backed Firecrown. It wasn't to be, although we did manage a fine female Magellanic Woodpecker, nicknamed Floppy. Just as we were driving to the airport, Mark spotted a Chilean Hawk at the edge of a childrens playground, got the driver to do an emergency stop and we all managed decent looks at this last minute bonus bird.

Top 5 birds of the Tierra del Fuego extension:- 1. White-bellied Seedsnipe 2. Blackish Cinclodes 3. King Penguin 4. Gentoo Penguin 5. Magellanic Tapaculo

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The gigantic Fitzroy massif was out of this World (Mark Pearman)

SYSTEMATIC LIST OF SPECIES RECORDED DURING THE TOUR

The species and family sequence, and species names follow the I.O.C. World Bird List which is available on- line at www.worldbirdnames.org/

Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). Species seen only by the leader are indicated by the symbol (LO). Species that were only seen on the pre tour extension are marked with (✤). Species that were only seen on the post tour extension are marked with (X).

Species marked with the diamond symbol (◊) are either endemic to the country or local region or considered ‘special’ birds for some other reason (e.g. only seen on one or two Birdquest tours; difficult to see across all or most of its range; the local form is endemic or restricted-range and may in future be treated as a full species).

Subspecific taxa are mentioned in parenthesis if a future split seems possible.

Greater Rhea Rhea americana Over 20 seen in the Pampas. Lesser Rhea Rhea pennata Common from the Valdés Peninsula southwards. Red-winged Tinamou rufescens 2 en route to Bahia Blanca. Brushland Tinamou ◊ cinerascens (✤) 1 seen at the Salinas Grandes, many heard. Nothoprocta pentlandii (✤) 1 seen nr C. del Monte; 1 by Tom & Ron nr Icho Cruz. Darwin’s Nothura ◊ Nothura darwinii 4 at three sites from Bahia Blanca to Las Grutas. Nothura maculosa 4 out of San Clemente. ◊ elegans Common from Las Grutas southwards; up to 40 daily.

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A male Elegant Crested Tinamou with its young (Dave Jackson)

Southern Screamer Chauna torquata Regular encounters in the Pampas. White-faced Whistling Duck Dendrocygna viduata Odd groups in the Pampas; 100+ nr Bahia Blanca. Fulvous Whistling Duck Dendrocygna bicolor Small numbers in the Pampas. Coscoroba Swan ◊ Coscoroba coscoroba Regular from Buenos Aires to Las Grutas. Black-necked Swan ◊ Cygnus melanocoryphus Small to large groups almost throughout. Flying Steamer Duck ◊ Tachyeres patachonicus Small numbers from the Valdés to Ushuaia. Fuegian Steamer Duck ◊ (Flightless SD) Tachyeres pteneres (X) 9 seen in the Beagle Channel. Chubut Steamer Duck ◊ (White-headed SD) Tachyeres leucocephalus 3 pairs on Chubut coasts. Upland Goose ◊ Chloephaga picta Hundreds daily in Santa Cruz; dozens in Tierra del Fuego. Kelp Goose ◊ Chloephaga hybrida (X) 20 seen along the Beagle Channel over three dates. Ashy-headed Goose ◊ Chloephaga poliocephala 3 nr Lago Ghio, well over 100 on Tierra del Fuego. Ruddy-headed Goose ◊ Chloephaga rubidiceps A pair and juvenile in northern Tierra del Fuego. Brazilian Teal Amazonetta brasiliensis Isolated pairs at Ceibas, Otamendi and Costanera Sur. Ringed Teal Callonetta leucophrys 15 at Ceibas; 1 at Costanera Sur. Crested Duck Lophonetta specularioides Common from the Valdés Peninsula southwards. Bronze-winged Duck ◊ (Spectacled D) Speculanas specularis A pair near El Chaltén. Silver Teal Anas versicolor Regular in the Pampas; 4 at Estancia La Angostura. Red Shoveler ◊ Anas platalea Only 30 seen from San Clemente to Tierra del Fuego was unusual. Chiloe Wigeon ◊ Anas sibilatrix Regular encounters from the Pampas to Tierra del Fuego. White-cheeked Pintail Anas bahamensis 16 above Icho Cruz; 3 nr San Clemente; 2 nr Bahia Blanca. Yellow-billed Pintail Anas georgica Regular encounters. Yellow-billed Teal (Speckled T) Anas flavirostris Regular encounters (flavirostris). Rosy-billed Pochard ◊ Netta peposaca 50 at Ceibas; small numbers in the Pampas. Black-headed Duck ◊ Heteronetta atricapilla A pair at Trelew. Masked Duck Nomonyx dominicus 9 at Ceibas; 1 at Costanera Sur. ! ! 21 BirdQuest Tour Report: Southern & Central Argentina 2017 www.birdquest-tours.com Andean Duck (Andean Ruddy D) Oxyura ferruginea 1 male near Lago Ghio. Lake Duck ◊ Oxyura vittata 3 out of San Clemente; 20 at Trelew. King Penguin Aptenodytes patagonicus (X) 1 adult at the Gentoo colony in the Beagle Channel. Gentoo Penguin Pygoscelis papua (X) At least 48 on Martillo Island. Magellanic Penguin ◊ Spheniscus magellanicus Common at Valdés, Pta Tombo and the Beagle. Black-browed Albatross Thalassarche melanophrys (X) Over 70 in the Beagle Channel. Southern Giant Petrel (Antarctic G P) Macronectes giganteus Common at all coastal sites. Sooty Shearwater Ardenna grisea (X) 3 in the Beagle Channel. Manx Shearwater Puffinus puffinus 40 passing Las Grutas. Pied-billed Grebe Podilmbus podiceps 2 at Costanera Sur, 1 (NL) en route to Bahia Blanca. White-tufted Grebe Rollandia Rolland Small numbers from Buenos Aires south to Trelew. Great Grebe Podicephorus major 2 nr Capilla del Monte; small numbers south to the Beagle Channel. Silvery Grebe Podiceps occipitalis 5 at Trelew; 39 on steppic plateau lakes in Santa Cruz. Hooded Grebe ◊ Podiceps gallardoi A breeding colony of 76 on a remote Santa Cruz plateau lake.

The iconic Hooded Grebe was the bird of the tour (Dave Jackson)

Chilean Flamingo Phoenicopterus chilensis 300+ nr Las Grutas; small numbers in Patagonia. Mycteria americana 25 at Ceibas. Ciconia maguari Common at Ceibas and in the Pampas. Black-faced Ibis ◊ Theristicus melanopis Common in Santa Cruz and Tierra del Fuego. Bare-faced Ibis Phimosus infuscatus 20 at Ceibas. White-faced Ibis Plegadis chihi Common to abundant in the Pampas. Roseate Spoonbill Platalea ajaja Five encounters involving 21 birds in the Pampas. Rufescent Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma lineatum An adult at Ceibas. Stripe-backed Bittern ◊ Ixobrychus involucris 1 flushed at close range at Ceibas. Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Small numbers in the Pampas. ! ! 22 BirdQuest Tour Report: Southern & Central Argentina 2017 www.birdquest-tours.com Striated Heron Butorides striatus 7 at Ceibas and 2 in the Pampas. Western Bubulcus ibis Common to abundant south to Las Grutas. Ardea cocoi Small numbers daily in the Pampas. Great Egret Ardea alba Regular south to the Valdés. Whistling Heron Syrigma sibilatrix Singles at Ceibas and Otamendi. thula Generally common in the Pampas. Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus Regular south to the Valdés. Rock Shag ◊ Phalacrocorax magellanicus 38 seen at the Valdés; 50 or so in Tierra del Fuego. Imperial Shag ◊ Phalacrocorax atriceps 110 at the Valdés; over 600 in Tierra del Fuego. Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura Regular in Córdoba (jota) and Patagonia (falklandica). Coragyps atratus 20 at Capilla del Monte; 2 at the Salinas Grandes; 2 at Otamendi. Andean Condor Vultur gryphus 3 in Córdoba; 4 in the southern Andes; 2 in Tierra del Fuego. White-tailed Kite Elanus leucurus 7 over three dates in the Pampas, south to Bahia Blanca. Chilean Hawk Accipiter erythronemius (X) A juvenile still-hunting in a childs playground in Ushuaia. Long-winged Harrier Circus buffoni 12 on four dates in the Pampas. Cinereous Harrier Circus cinereus A total of 26 from San Clemente to southern Santa Cruz. Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis Common in the Pampas. Roadside Hawk Rupornis magnirostris Heard at Icho Cruz; 2 seen at Otamendi (pucherani). Harris’s Hawk Parabuteo unicinctus 1 at Costanera Sur. Variable Hawk (Red-backed H) Geranoaetus polyosoma 4 in Córdoba; 10 seen in Patagonia. Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle Geranoaetus melanoleucus 11 in Córdoba; 7 in southern Patagonia. Red-and-white Crake ◊ Laterallus leucopyrrhus 1 seen briefly near La Plata; H at La Balandra. Austral Rail ◊ Rallus antarcticus (H) 3 at Ea. La Angostura where water levels were high. Giant Wood Rail Aramides ypecaha 9 at Ceibas; 1 at La Balandra. Dot-winged Crake ◊ Porzana spiloptera Multiple looks at a bird at Punta Rasa. Plumbeous Rail Pardirallus sanguinolentus 3 in Córdoba; H at Otamendi; 2 nr San Clemente. Common Gallinule Gallinula galeata 10 at Ceibas; 30 at Costanera Sur; 4 en route to Bahia Blanca. Spot-flanked Gallinule Gallinula melanops Singles at Costanera Sur, nr La Plata and Bahia Blanca. White-winged Coot Fulica leucoptera Regular encounters, the commonest coot of the tour. Red-gartered Coot ◊ Fulica armillata 25 in the Pampas, 2 at Estancia La Angostura. Red-fronted Coot ◊ Fulica rufifrons 20 at Costanera Sur; 2 en route to Bahia Blanca. Limpkin Aramus guarauna Six observations involving 14 birds in the Pampas. Snowy Sheathbill ◊ Chionis albus 6 on the Valdés; 10 in Comodoro, 11 in the Beagle Channel. Magellanic Plover ◊ Pluvianellus socialis Protracted looks at a pair with a juvenile near El Calafate. Magellanic Oystercatcher ◊ Haematopus leucopodus 2 nr Pta Tombo, El Calafate, 7 in T. del Fuego. Blackish Oystercatcher Haematopus ater 8 from the Valdés to Tierra del Fuego. American Oystercatcher Haematopus palliatus Regular encounters from Pta Rasa to B. Bustamante. White-backed Stilt Himantopus mexicanus Generally common south to Los Antiguos. Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis Ubiquitous (lampronotus in the N; crestless fretensis in the S). American Golden Plover Pluvialis dominica Common around San Clemente; over 100 seen. Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola 1 at Punta Rasa. Semipalmated Plover Pluvialis semipalmatus 1 at Punta Rasa. Two-banded Plover ◊ Charadrius falklandicus More than 20 from the Valdés Peninsula southwards. Rufous-chested Plover (R-c Dotterel) ◊ Charadrius modestus (X) Stunning looks at 1 nr Rio Grande. Tawny-throated Dotterel Oreopholus ruficollis Over 30 in western Santa Cruz. South American Painted Snipe ◊ Nycticryphes semicollaris 1 flushed point blank nr San Clemente. Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana 60 at Ceibas, 60 at Costanera Sur and 3 out of San Clemente. White-bellied Seedsnipe ◊ Attagis malouinus (X) Walk-away views of a pair at Paso Garibaldi. Grey-breasted Seedsnipe orbignyianus 6 in western Santa Cruz. Least Seedsnipe Thinocorus rumicivorus 16 or more in western Santa Cruz; 3 in Tierra del Fuego. Hudsonian Godwit Limosa haemastica 28 in the San Clemente area, and 6 at Trelew. Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres 3 at Punta Rasa. Baird’s Sandpiper Calidris bairdii 6 at Punta Rasa; 120 from Bahia Bustamante to Tierra del Fuego. White-rumped Sandpiper Calidris fuscicollis 500 out of San Clemente; 4 in n Tierra del Fuego.

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The magnificent Tawny-throated Dotterel is another inspirational bird of the Patagonian steppe (Dave Jackson).

Buff-breasted Sandpiper Tryngites subruficollis 7 studied near San Clemente. Pectoral Sandpiper Calidris melanotos 2 at Costanera Sur; 50 on an estancia nr San Clemente. South American Snipe Gallinago paraguaiae 1 at Ceibas; 2 nr La Plata; 1 nr San Clemente (paraguaiae); 4 n of Rio Grande (magellanica). Wilson's Phalarope Phalaropus tricolor 1 at Costanera Sur; 2 and 4 out of San Clemente. Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes 1 at Ceibas; 9 out of S Clemente; 6 at Trelew; 3 nr Rio Grande.

Dolphin Gull showing off its beasty (Mark Pearman)

! ! 24 BirdQuest Tour Report: Southern & Central Argentina 2017 www.birdquest-tours.com Willet Tringa semipalmata 1 at Punta Rasa. Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca 9 out of San Clemente on two dates. Black Skimmer Rynchops niger 30 nr San Clemente; 100+ en route to Bahia Blanca (intercedens). Brown-hooded Gull ◊ Chroicocephalus maculipennis Common in the Pampas; 9 in sw Patagonia. Grey-hooded Gull Chroicocephalus cirrocephalus 1 at Punta Rasa. Dolphin Gull ◊ Leucophaeus scoresbii 3 at Valdés: 2 at P. Tombo; common in the Beagle Channel. Franklin’s Gull Leucophaeus pipixcan 1 nr Isla Martillo in the Beagle Channel. Olrog’s Gull ◊ Larus atlanticus 1 juvenile at Punta Rasa; 35 adults nr Bahia Blanca. Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus Ubiquitous at all coastal sites and numerous inland Patagonian areas. Royal Tern Thalasseus maxima Regular encounters from Punta Rasa to Bahia Bustamante. Cabot’s Tern Thalasseus acuflavidus 1 at Punta Rasa. South American Tern Sterna hirundinacea 6 at B Bustamante; 1 nr El Calafate; 130 in the Beagle. Common Tern Sterna hirundo 750 at Punta Rasa; 3 in the Beagle Channel. Snowy-crowned Tern (Trudeau’s T) ◊ Sterna trudeaui 6 at an estancia nr San Clemente. Chilean Skua ◊ Stercorarius chilensis 1 at Punta Rasa; 85 or more in Ushuaia/ Beagle Channel. Brown Skua ◊ Stercorarius antarctica 1 at Bahia Bustamante. Feral Pigeon (Rock Dove) Columba livia The less said the better. Picazuro Pigeon Patagioenas picazuro 15 in west Córdoba; common in the Pampas. Spot-winged Pigeon Patagioenas maculosa Common in Córdoba; 1 at Ceibas. Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata Generally abundant throughout; 4 seen in n Tierra del Fuego. Picui Ground-Dove Columbina picui Common in Córdoba and the Pampas; 1 at Trelew. White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Small numbers seen in Córdoba and around Buenos Aires. Guira Cuckoo Guira guira Regular encounters in Córdoba and Buenos Aires. Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia (H) 5 in Córdoba and 1 at Ceibas; none responsive. Dark-billed Cuckoo Coccyzus melacoryphus 2 at Otamendi; 1 at La Balandra. American Barn Owl ◊ Tyto furcata One flew over calling at El Chaltén. Rufous-legged Owl ◊ Strix rufipes Great looks at 1 nr El Chaltén. Austral Pygmy Owl ◊ Glaucidium nana (X) 1 showed well in Tierra del Fuego NP. Burrowing Owl Athene cunicularia Regular encounters south to Bahia Bustamante. White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris (✤) A flock of 10 in the Sierras Grandes, Córdoba. Glittering-bellied Emerald Chlorostilbon aureoventris 15 over six days in Córdoba and Bs Aires. White-throated Hummingbird Leucochloris albicollis 1 at San Clemente. Red-tailed Comet Sappho sparganurus (✤) A pair in Capilla del Monte. Blue-tufted Starthroat ◊ Heliomaster furcifer (✤) A female nr Nono; 1 male at Capilla del Monte. Ringed Kingfisher Megaceryle torquata 1 at Ceibas (torquata). Chaco Puffbird Nystalus striatipectus (✤) Nice scope studies of a pair near Icho Cruz. White Woodpecker Melanerpes candidus 1 at Otamendi. White-fronted Woodpecker Melanerpes cactorum 3 at the Salinas Grandes; 2 at Ceibas. Checkered Woodpecker Picoides mixtus 2 at the Salinas Grandes, 2 at Ceibas. Green-barred Woodpecker Colaptes melanochlorus Small numbers almost daily in Cordoba-Bs Aires. Chilean Flicker ◊ Colaptes pitius 4 out of El Chaltén; others heard. Campo Flicker Colaptes campestris Singles at Icho Cruz and La Balandra; 4 nr Bahia Blanca. Black-bodied Woodpecker ◊ Dryocopus schulzi (✤) A female at Capilla del Monte. Magellanic Woodpecker ◊ Campephilus magellanicus 3 out of El Chaltén; a female in Ushuaia. White-throated ◊ Phalcoboenus albogularis (X) 15 or more at Ushuaia landfill site. Southern Crested Caracara Caracara plancus Ubiquitous throughout the tour. Milvago chimango: Generally abundant throughout. Spot-winged Falconet ◊ Spiziapteryx circumcinctus (✤) 1 showing well at the Salinas Grandes. American Kestrel Falco sparverius Regular encounters, except in Tierra del Fuego. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrines A pair above Icho Cruz (cassini); 1 (NL) at La Balandra. Grey-hooded Parakeet Psilopsiagon aymara (✤) 1 in the Sierras Grandes above Icho Cruz. Monk Parakeet Myiopsitta monachus Ubiquitous in the Pampas and Córdoba. Austral Parakeet ◊ Enicognathus ferrugineus 5 out of El Chaltén; 8 in Tierra del Fuego. Burrowing Parrot ◊ Cyanoliseus patagonus Common from Bahia Blanca to n Santa Cruz. Nanday Parakeet Nandayus nenday 4 at Costanera Sur. Blue-crowned Parakeet Thectocercus acuticaudatus (✤) 4 at Nono, 1 at the salinas, 2 out of Capilla. Common Miner cunicularia 25 or more on the Valdés Peninsula, 4 in western Santa Cruz. Short-billed Miner ◊ Geositta antarctica 15 or more in w Santa Cruz; 4 in n Tierra del Fuego. ! ! 25 BirdQuest Tour Report: Southern & Central Argentina 2017 www.birdquest-tours.com Band-tailed Earthcreeper ◊"Ochetoryhnchus phoenicurus 2 nr Punta Tombo. Scale-throated Earthcreeper ◊ Upucerthia dumetaria Small numbers daily from Valdés to El Chaltén. Chaco Earthcreeper ◊ Tarphonomus certhioides (✤) 1 in Córdoba and many H; (H) nr Las Grutas. Buff-winged Cinclodes (Bar-w C) Cinclodes fuscus 1 out of El Calafate; 1 at the Garibaldi Pass. Cordoba Cinclodes ◊ Cinclodes comechingonus (✤) 3 at the Pampa de Achala. Olrog’s Cinclodes ◊ Cinclodes olrogi (✤) 2 at the Pampa de Achala. White-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes atacamensis (✤) 1 at the Pampa de Achala (schocolatinus). Grey-flanked Cinclodes ◊ Cinclodes oustaleti (X) 4 at the Garibaldi Pass (hornensis). Dark-bellied Cinclodes ◊ Cinclodes patagonicus 1 out of El Chaltén; 1 in the Beagle Channel. Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus Common south to Bahia Blanca. Crested Hornero ◊ Furnarius cristatus (✤) 1 at the Salinas Grandes. Thorn-tailed Rayadito ◊ Aphrastura spinicauda Common in Patagonian forest. Tufted Tit-Spinetail ◊ Leptasthenura platensis 1 at the Salinas Grandes; 1 at Ceibas. Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail Leptasthenura aegithaloides 1 at Pta Tombo; 1 at La Angostura (pallida). Sharp-billed Canastero ◊"Asthenes pyrrholeuca Common from Bahia Blanca to Los Antiguos. Short-billed Canastero ◊ Asthenes baeri 2 at Ceibas; 1 south of Rio Colorado. Cordilleran Canastero Asthenes modesta 1 in Córdoba; 1 (NL) at La Angostura; 2 out of El Calafate. Puna Canastero ◊"Asthenes sclateri (✤) 2 at the Pampa de Achala. Austral Canastero ◊ Asthenes anthoides (X) 1 near Rio Grande. Hudson’s Canastero ◊ Asthenes hudsoni 2 near San Clemente. Patagonian Canastero ◊ Pseudasthenes patagonica 1 at Las Grutas; 1 on the Valdés Peninsula. Chotoy Spinetail Schoeniophylax phryganophilus (✤) 2 at Icho Cruz; (H) at Ceibas. Pale-breasted Spinetail Synallaxis albescens 1 at Icho Cruz; 1 at Gral. Cerri; 2 in Caldén woodlands. Sooty-fronted Spinetail Synallaxis frontalis (✤) 2 nr Capilla del Monte. Spix’s Spinetail Synallaxis spixi 1 at La Balandra. Sulphur-bearded Spinetail ◊ Cranioleuca sulphurifera 1 at Punta Rasa. Stripe-crowned Spinetail ◊ Cranioleuca pyrrhophia 2 at I. Cruz; 2 at Ceibas; 1 in Caldén woodlands. Freckle-breasted Thornbird ◊ Phacellodomus striaticollis H at Otamendi; 1 at Punta Rasa. Bay-capped Wren-Spinetail ◊ Spartonoica maluroides 1 n of San Clemente; 2 at Punta Rasa. Wren-like Rushbird Phleocryptes melanops 2 at Ceibas; 1 and many heard at Punta Rasa. Curve-billed Reedhaunter ◊ Limnornis curvirostris 2 and 2 heard at Otamendi. Firewood-gatherer Anumbius annumbi 1 above Icho Cruz; 2 out of Bahia Blanca. Lark-like Brushrunner ◊ Coryphistera alaudina (✤) 2 at the Salinas Grandes. Brown Cacholote ◊ Pseudoseisura lophotes (✤) Common in Córdoba; (H) at Ceibas. White-throated Cacholote ◊ Pseudoseisura gutturalis 2 at Las Grutas. Buff-browed Foliage-gleaner Syndactyla rufosuperciliata (NL) 1 seen by some at La Balandra. White-throated Treerunner ◊ Pygarrhichas albogularis 2 at El Chaltén; 6 during our Fuegian trek. Scimitar-billed Woodcreeper ◊ Drymornis bridgesii 8 seen at four sites in Córdoba; 3 at Ceibas. Narrow-billed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes angustirostris 1 at Salinas Grandes; 3 at Ceibas; 1 LP. Variable Antshrike Thamnophilus caerulescens (✤) 1 and another heard out of Capilla del Monte. Crested Gallito ◊ Rhinocrypta lanceolata 1 at Capilla del Monte, 1 at the Caldén woodlands; many H. Sandy Gallito ◊ Teledromus fuscus 1 showed well near Las Grutas. Magellanic Tapaculo ◊ magellanicus: (X) 1 obliged nicely in Tierra del Fuego National Park. Olive-crowned Crescentchest ◊"Melanopareia maximilliani (✤) 1 and another H nr Capilla del Monte. Chilean Elaenia (White-crested E) Elaenia albiceps Common at El Chaltén and in Tierra del Fuego. Small-billed Elaenia Elaenia parvirostris Common in Córdoba; 1 at Costanera Sur. Southern Beardless Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum 1 at Icho Cruz; H at the Salinas; 1 at Ceibas. Suiriri Flycatcher Suiriri suiriri 6 at the Salinas Grandes, 1 at Ceibas. Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant Anairetes flavirostris 2 out of Las Grutas. Tufted Tit-Tyrant Anairetes parulus 1 nr Bahia Blanca; 1 (NL) nr El Chaltén; 5 around Ushuaia. White-bellied Tyrannulet Serpophaga subcristata 1 near Icho Cruz; 1 at Punta Rasa. Straneck’s Tyrannulet Serpophaga griseicapilla 4 seen and 8 more heard at the Caldén woodlands. Bearded Tachuri Polystictus pectoralis A superb male en route to San Clemente. Warbling Doradito Pseudocolopteryx flaviventris 2 at Ceibas; 3 n of San Clemente; 1 at Punta Rasa. Tawny-crowned Pygmy Tyrant Euscarthmus meloryphus (✤) 1 at the Salinas Grandes; others heard. Greater Wagtail-Tyrant Stigmatura budytoides 3 at the Salinas Grandes; 2 at the Caldén woodlands. Southern Scrub Flycatcher Sublegatus modestus (✤) 2 at the Salinas Grandes. Bran-coloured Flycatcher Myiophobus fasciatus 3 in Córdoba; 2 at Ceibas, 3 around Buenos Aires. ! ! 26 BirdQuest Tour Report: Southern & Central Argentina 2017 www.birdquest-tours.com Many-coloured Rush Tyrant Tachuris rubrigastra 1 out of San Clemente. Cliff Flycatcher Hirundinea ferruginea (✤) 2 in the village of Salsacate, Córdoba. Scarlet Flycatcher (Vermillion F) Pyrocephalus rubinus 15 from Entre Ríos to the Valdés Peninsula. Austral Negrito Lessonia rufa Common from the Valdés Peninsula to Tierra del Fuego. Hudson’s Black Tyrant ◊ Knipolegus hudsoni 2 at the Caldén woodlands; 1 at Las Grutas. White-winged Black Tyrant Knipolegus aterrimus 3 out of Las Grutas. Spectacled Tyrant Hymenops perspicillata Numerous encounters. Yellow-browed Tyrant Satrapa icterophrys 1 at La Balandra. Ochre-naped Ground Tyrant Muscisaxicola flavinucha (X) 3 at the Garibaldi Pass. Dark-faced Ground Tyrant ◊ Muscisaxicola maclovianus (X) 1 n of Río Grande; 4 at the Garibaldi. White-browed Ground Tyrant ◊ Muscisaxicola albilora 1 out of El Chaltén. Cinnamon-bellied Ground Tyrant ◊ Muscisaxicola capistratus 14+ at three sites in Santa Cruz. Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant Agriornis montanus 1 below the Pampa de Achala; 1 at the fishing lodge. Grey-bellied Shrike-Tyrant ◊ Agriornis micropterus Singles at Las Grutas, the Valdes and Lago Ghio. Lesser Shrike-Tyrant ◊ Agriornis murinus 2 out of Las Grutas, 1 on the Valdés Peninsula. Fire-eyed Diucon ◊ Xolmis pyrope 1 out of El Chaltén; 1 at Tierra del Fuego national park. Black-crowned Monjita ◊ Xolmis coronata 5 out of Las Grutas was quite a surprise. White Monjita Xolmis irupero (✤) 6 in the Sierras Grandes above Icho Cruz; 1 at the Salinas Grandes. Rusty-backed Monjita ◊ Neoxolmis rubetra 1 on the Valdés Peninsula. Salinas Monjita Neoxolmis salinarum (✤) A pair at the Salinas Grandes. Chocolate-vented Tyrant Neoxolmis rufiventris 8 and 2 in western Santa Cruz. Black-backed water Tyrant Fluvicola albiventer 5 at Ceibas; 2 (NL) at Costanera Sur. Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosa 2 out of Icho Cruz, and small numbers in the Pampas. Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus Regular encounters in the north; 1 at Sarmiento. Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculates 1 at the Salinas Grandes; 3 around Buenos Aires. Crowned Slaty Flycatcher Griseotyrannus aurantioatrocristatus 28 in Córdoba; 3 out of Las Grutas. Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus Regular sightings in Córdoba and Buenos Aires provinces. Fork-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus Common south to the Valdés Peninsula. Swainson’s Flycatcher Myiarchus swainsoni (✤) 1 above Nono. White-tipped Plantcutter Phytotoma rutila Small numbers south to Las Grutas. Rufous-tailed Plantcutter Phytotoma rara 2 at Lago Ghio; a male at El Chaltén; H at El Calafate. White-naped Xenopsaris Xenopsaris albinucha 3 at Ceibas. White-winged Becard Pachyramphus polychopterus A pair at Ceibas; 1 male at La Balandra. Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis 1 at La Balandra; H at Otamendi. Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus 2 above Nono; 3 at La Balandra (chivi). Sand Martin (Bank Swallow) Riparia riparia 1 NL (Sinclair) out of San Clemente. White-rumped Swallow Tachycineta leucorrhoa Common from Entre Ríos south to Bahia Blanca. Chilean Swallow Tachycineta meyeni Common in Santa Cruz and Tierra del Fuego. Grey-breasted Martin Progne chalybea 1 above Icho Cruz; seen by many at Ezeiza airport. Southern Martin Progne elegans 10+ in the Sierras Grandes; 20+ from Las Grutas to the Valdés. Brown-chested Martin Progne tapera Regular encounters south to the Valdés Peninsula. Blue-and-white Swallow Pygochelidon cyanoleuca Occasional groups of up to 10 throughout the tour. Tawny-headed Swallow ◊ Alopochelidon fucata (✤) 3 near Icho Cruz. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica 1 at Ceibas; common from San Clemente to Las Grutas. Grass Wren Cistothorus platensis 2 at Punta Rasa; 1 nr Bahia Blanca (platensis). House Wren Troglodytes aedon Seen throughout the tour. Masked Gnatcatcher Polioptila dumicola Regular in Córdoba and Buenos Aires. Chalk-browed Mockingbird Mimus saturninus Regular in Cordoba and Buenos Aires, s to Las Grutas Patagonian Mockingbird ◊ Mimus patagonicus 4 at the Salinas Grandes; common in Patagonia. White-banded Mockingbird ◊ Mimus triurus 25 or more from Las Grutas to the Valdés Peninsula. Crested Myna Acridotheres cristatellus 1 (LO?) in La Plata. Introduced. Common Starling (European S) Sturnus vulgaris 50+ at Costanera Sur; 30 in La Plata. Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco (✤) Common in the sierras of Córdoba. Andean Slaty Thrush Turdus nigriceps (✤) A male and female showed well near Nono. Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris Regular encounters in Córdoba and Buenos Aires. Austral Thrush Turdus falcklandii Common in southern Patagonia. Creamy-bellied Thrush Turdus amaurochalinus Small numbers in Córdoba and Buenos Aires. House Sparrow Passer domesticus Present in most towns and cities. ! ! 27 BirdQuest Tour Report: Southern & Central Argentina 2017 www.birdquest-tours.com Short-billed Pipit Anthus furcatus 4 on the Valdés Peninsula. Pampas Pipit (Chaco P) ◊ Anthus chacoensis 1 nr Coronel Suarez; 2 out of Bahia Blanca; others H. Correndera Pipit Anthus correndera 2 and 3 on different dates out of San Clemente. Hellmayr’s Pipit Anthus hellmayri (✤) 1 in the Sierras Grandes of Córdoba. Black-chinned Siskin Carduelis barbata Common in western Santa Cruz and Tierra del Fuego. Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica Small numbers in Córdoba and Buenos Aires. Southern Yellowthroat Geothlypis velata 1 (NL) nr Capilla del Monte; 4 at Ceibas; 5 at La Balandra. Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi 1 at La Balandra. Golden-crowned Warbler Basileuterus culicivorus (NL) 1 found by David at La Balandra. Brown-capped Whitestart Myioborus miniatus (✤) 1 at Capilla del Monte. White-browed Blackbird superciliaris Generally common in the Pampas. Long-tailed Meadowlark loyca 15 in Córdoba (obscura); common in east Patagonia (loyca). Pampas Meadowlark Sturnella defilippii 8 or more out of Bahia Blanca, compared directly with loyca. Solitary Cacique Cacicus solitarius 1 at Ceibas; 1 at Otamendi; H at La Balandra. Variable Oriole Icterus pyrrhopterus (✤) 1 at the Salinas Grandes. Austral Blackbird Curaeus curaeus (X) 7 at Tierra del Fuego National Park. Screaming Cowbird Molothrus rufoaxillaris (✤) Seen almost daily in Córdoba province. Molothrus bonariensis Common south to to Bahia Bustamante. Scarlet-headed Blackbird Amblyramphus holosericeus 1 at Otamendi. Greyish Baywing Agelaioides badius Numerous in Córdoba and the northern Pampas. Yellow-winged Blackbird Agelasticus thilius Common in the pampas; scarcer south to S. Cruz. Chestnut-capped Blackbird Chrysomus ruficapillus 10 or more at Ceibas. Brown-and-yellow Marshbird Pseudoleistes virescens Common in the Pampas. Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis Ubiquitous; southern australis lacking head stripes. Grassland Sparrow Ammodramus humeralis 2 nr Coronel Suarez; 6 out of Bahia Blanca. Stripe-capped Sparrow Rhynchospiza strigiceps (✤) 3 nr Icho Cruz; 1 at Capilla del Monte (strigiceps). Red-crested Cardinal Paroaria coronata 10 at Ceibas; 1 (NL) en route to San Clemente. Yellow-billed Cardinal Paroaria capitata 1 at Ceibas seen by some. Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca 1 at Ceibas. Blue-and-yellow Tanager Thraupis bonariensis 8 in Córdoba, 4 out of Bahia Blanca. Red Pileated Finch Coryphospingus cucullatus (✤) 3 nr Icho Cruz. Grey-hooded Sierra-Finch Phrygilus gayi Regular encounters from B. Bustamante to Tierra del Fuego. Patagonian Sierra Finch Phrygilus patagonicus 1 at El Chaltén; common in Tierra del Fuego. Mourning Sierra Finch Phrygilus patagonicus Small to large numbers in Chubut and Santa Cruz. Plumbeous Sierra Finch Phrygilus unicolor (✤) 8 or more at the Pampa de Achala. Ash-breasted Sierra Finch Phrygilus plebejus Several at the Pampa de Achala. Carbonated Sierra Finch ◊ Phrygilus carbonarius 2 males at the Caldén woodland.

Nesting much farther north than usual, the endemic Carbonated Sierra Finch (Mark Pearman). ! ! 28 BirdQuest Tour Report: Southern & Central Argentina 2017 www.birdquest-tours.com Yellow-bridled Finch ◊ Melanodera xanthogramma (X) 2 at the Garibaldi Pass. Black-crested Finch ◊ Lophospingus pusillus (✤) 2 at the Salinas Grandes. Common Diuca Finch Diuca diuca Regular encounters from the Caldén woodlands to Gob. Gregores. Cinnamon Warbling Finch Poospiza ornata 3 at the Caldén woodlands. Black-and-rufous Warbling Finch ◊ Poospiza nigrorufa 1 at Ceibas; 2 at Costanera; 3 at La Balandra. Black-and-chestnut Warbling Finch ◊ Poospiza whitii (✤) 1 nr Capilla del Monte. Grey-throated Warbling Finch Poospiza cabanisi (NL) 1 seen by some at La Balandra. Ringed Warbling Finch Poospiza pectoralis 4 at the Caldén woodlands; 2 out of Las Grutas. Black-capped Warbling Finch Poospiza melanoleuca (✤) 2 at Icho Cruz; two pairs nr Capilla. Greater Yellow Finch ◊" auriventris A pair seen by some near the Hooded Grebe lake. Patagonian Yellow Finch ◊ Sicalis lebruni A male on the Valdes Peninsula. Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola Regular encounters in Córdoba and south to Bahia Blanca. Grassland Yellow Finch Sicalis luteola 1 at Ceibas; abundant in the N Pampas sparsely to the Caldén. Pampa Finch Embernagra platensis 2 at Otamendi; 12 in the Pampas south to Las Grutas. Many-coloured Chaco Finch Saltatricula multicolor (✤) Singles at Icho Cruz, the salinas and Capilla. Golden-billed Saltator Saltator aurantiirostris At least 13 in Córdoba; 1 at Costanera; 3 at Las Grutas. Double-collared Seedeater Sporophila caerulescens Singles at Capilla, Ceibas and Otamendi. Band-tailed Seedeater Catamenia analis (✤) A male on the west slope of the Sierras Grandes. Red Tanager (Hepatic T) Piranga flava (✤) A male above Nono.

MAMMALS

Larger Hairy Armadillo out for a trot (Mark Pearman)

Larger Hairy Armadillo Chaetophractus villosus 1 on the Valdes Peninsula. Yellow Armadillo (Six-banded A) Euphractus sexinctus 1 nr Coronel Suarez, Buenos Aires province. ! ! 29 BirdQuest Tour Report: Southern & Central Argentina 2017 www.birdquest-tours.com European Hare Lepus europeus Regular encounters, sometimes abundant. Absent in Tierra del Fuego. European Rabbit Oryctolagus cunicilus 1 nr El Calafate. American Beaver Castor canadiensis (X) 1 see from the Garibaldi Pass. Wolffsohn's Viscacha Lagidium wolffsohni 4 out of Los Antiguos. The mammal of the tour! Brazilian Guinea-Pig (Common Cavy) Cavia aperea 1 at Punta Rasa; 1 out of Bahia Blanca. Patagonian Cavy (P Mara) Dolichotis patagonum 6 on the Valdés Peninsula; 1 at Bahia Bustamante. Southern Mountain Cavy (Patagonian Lesser C) Microcavia patagonum 2 out of Las Grutas. Coypu Myocaster coypus Common in the Pampas. Pampas Fox (Argentine Grey F) Pseudolopex gymnocercus 16 from Bahia Blanca southwards. Humboldt’s Hog-nosed Skunk Conepatus humboldti 2 nr Lago Ghio; 1 out of El Calafate. South American Sea Lion Otaria byronia Common from the Valdes southwards. Southern Elephant Seal Mirounga leonina 100+ on the Valdés Peninsula; 25 nr Punta Tombo. Southern Right Whale Eubalaena glacialis Close-ups of a mother and calf off the Valdés. Guanaco Lama guanicoe Common over much of Patagonia.

REPTILES

Patagonia is absolutely crawling with endemic lizards; here a male Gallardo's Lizard on the Strobel Plateau (Mark Pearman)

Hawksbill One dead on the beach at San Clemente. Bibron's Iguana Diplolaemus bibronii One photographed near Estancia La Angostura. Darwin’s Lizard Liolaemus darwinii Two males photographed south of Rio Colorado, R. Negro. Boulenger's Lizard Liolaemus boulengeri One photographed south of Rio Colorado, R. Negro. Canquel Lizard Liolaemus canqueli A female photographed on the Valdes Peninsula (provisional ID). King's Lizard Liolaemus kingii One photographed on the Strobel Plateau. Gallardo's Lizard Liolaemus gallardoi One, seen by some, photographed on the Strobel Plateau. Di Tada's Lizard Liolaemus ditadai Several seen at the Salinas Grandes. Mousehole Snake Philodryas trilineata One photographed on the Valdes Peninsula.

! ! 30 BirdQuest Tour Report: Southern & Central Argentina 2017 www.birdquest-tours.com Snub-nosed Yarara Viper Bothrops ammodytoides Mark nearly stepped on one at Las Grutas.

The eye-catching Maiden's Slipper is just one of many jewels of the Patagonian and Fuegian steppe (Dave Jackson)

! ! 31 BirdQuest Tour Report: Southern & Central Argentina 2017 www.birdquest-tours.com