The stunning Hooded Grebe is a Critically Endangered species with a population below 800 individuals, and was only described new to science in 1974 (Dave Jackson, tour participant) SOUTHERN & CENTRAL ARGENTINA 21 NOVEMBER – 8/12 DECEMBER 2017 LEADER: MARK PEARMAN Seventy-six stunning Hooded Grebes at a new breeding colony on a remote Patagonian steppe lake was a mind-blowing experience. Now at fewer than 800 birds, from a global population of 5000 when first discovered in 1974, the species is currently classified as Critically Endangered. Many of the grebes were either sitting on eggs or nest-building, and we also had a pair display right infront of us, with typical synchronized neck-twisting, and unusual crest raising accompanied by a unique and almost magical windhorn chorus. Birdquest missed the species altogether in 2016, managed great looks in 2014, 2011 and notably of breeding birds in 2009 at what is now an unsuitable breeding lake. Put into perspective, we count ourselves very lucky at witnessing this lifetime experience. The grebes came nicely off the cusp of a long journey which began with a string of goodies in Córdoba including both Cordoba and Olrog’s Cinclodes, as well as Spot-winged Falconet, Blue-tufted Starthroat, the ! ! 1 BirdQuest Tour Report: Southern & Central Argentina 2017 www.birdquest-tours.com wonderful endemic Salinas Monjita, stunning Olive-crowned Crescentchest, delightful Black-and-chestnut Warbling Finch and one of South Americas rarest woodpeckers, the elusive Black-bodied Woodpecker. A brief incursion into southern Entre Rios province produced Stripe-backed Bittern, several White-naped Xenopsaris and fifteen Ringed Teal before we began our journey through Buenos Aires province. Top birds in the Pampas included both Red-and-white and Dot-winged Crakes, South American Painted Snipe, Olrog's Gull, the delightful Bearded Tachuri, Bay-capped Wren-Spinetail, Sulphur-bearded Spinetail, the declining Pampas Meadowlark as well as poorly known Hudson's Canastero and Pampas Pipit. Further south, the calden woodland provided us with five endemics breeders including Hudson's Black Tyrant, Straneck's Tyrannulet, White-banded Mockingbird, Carbonated Sierra Finch and Cinnamon Warbling Finch. Now officially in Patagonia, we soon added three more endemics in a morning including White-throated Cacholote, Sandy Gallito (displaying!), and Patagonian Canastero plus the stunning Black-crowned Monjita; yet another endemic breeder. Further south we enjoyed the endemic Rusty-backed Monjita, near endemic Band-tailed Earthcreeper, thousands of Magellanic Penguins and the flightless endemic Chubut Steamer Duck. Highlights in Santa Cruz province, other than the amazing Hooded Grebes included Spectacled Duck, Magellanic Plover, Magellanic Woodpecker and Rufous-legged Owl. The extension was also a huge success with point blank walk-away views of White-bellied Seedsnipe, Ruddy-headed Goose, a variety of seabirds and seaducks, plus a superb adult King Penguin in a breeding colony of Gentoos. In all we recorded some 346 species (2 heard only) of which 44 were only seen on the pre-tour Cordoba extension and 18 were only seen on the post-tour Tierra del Fuego extension. Among 16 species of mammal encountered, the very local Wolffsohn's Viscacha stood out. The pre-tour extension got underway from Córdoba city with a short drive into the foothills of the Sierras Grandes. One of the first species to show was a pair of splendid Chaco Puffbirds as we rapidly added many common species including Turkey Vulture, Spot-winged Pigeon, Picui Ground Dove, Eared Dove, Southern Crested and Chimango Caracaras, American Kestrel, Monk Parakeet, Small-billed Elaenia, Bran-coloured Flycatcher, Great Kiskadee, Crowned Slaty Flycatcher, House Wren, Masked Gnatcatcher, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Chiguanco Thrush, Screaming and Shiny Cowbirds, Greyish Baywing, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Red Pileated Finch and Saffron Finch. Even by late morning there was plenty of activity and both Brushland and Andean Tinamous were calling in the area as we concentrated on many of the more skulking species managing great looks at Chotoy, Pale-breasted and Stripe-crowned Spinetails, Southern Beardless and White-crested Tyrannulets, the near endemic and soon-to-be split Stripe-capped Sparrow and scope views of a stunning Many-coloured Chaco Finch. As a trio of Tawny-headed Swallows circled us there were many showy birds on offer as well with Campo Flicker, the boisterous Brown Cacholote, amazing Scimitar- billed Woodcreeper (what a snoz!), Blue-and-yellow Tanager, Black-capped Warbling Finch and Golden- billed Saltator. Not a bad start at all! In the afternoon we ventured above the treeline into the sierran grasslands, soon connecting with widespread species such as Southern Lapwing, Picazuro Pigeon, Rufous Hornero, Cattle Tyrant, Tropical Kingbird, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Grey-breasted Martin, Rufous-bellied Thrush and Hooded Siskin. A close perched adult Black-chested Buzzard Eagle was an eye-opener for many while we enjoyed the immaculate White Monjita, the evocatively named Firewood-gatherer complete with its huge stick nest, and the local, endemic race of Long-tailed Meadowlark. Finally, David, who had his flight cancelled and then missed a connection, managed to catch up with the group at dinner. Our primary reason for visiting these mountains was to seek out two endemic cinclodes and after an early breakfast we were soon heading up to a 2000 metre-high plateau. A first roadside stop produced juvenile Andean Condors, a flock of White-collared Swifts and a brief overhead flight view of Grey-hooded Parakeet which would be the only one of the tour. Dave got us onto a pair of perched Peregrines of the resident cassini race. Roadside pools provided us with scope studies of many White-winged Coots, Plumbeous Rail, Yellow-billed Pintail and, surprisingly, some sixteen White-cheeked Pintail. Impressive numbers of Black- chested Buzzard Eagles and several Variable Hawks lined the roadside as Southern Martins and Blue-and- ! ! 2 BirdQuest Tour Report: Southern & Central Argentina 2017 www.birdquest-tours.com white Swallows sailed overhead. The highest grasslands where thriving with Spectacled Tyrants and Long- tailed Meadowlarks and it was not long before we connected with the endemic Cordoba Cinclodes and an endemic race of White-winged Cinclodes. Here too in a rocky moonscape we added Plumbeous Sierra Finch, Puna and Cordilleran Canastero, as well White-winged Black Tyrant and Hellmayr's Pipit. Lower down we found a pair of the endemic Olrog's Cinclodes while stops on the west slope added the skulking Chaco Earthcreeper, an endemic race of Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant, a pair of Cliff Flycatcher and Band-tailed Seedeater, while a lunch stop produced a female Blue-tufted Starthroat. Just down the road we headed up into rainshadow woodland where we soon homed in on feeding Blue-crowned Parakeets, Swainson's Flycatcher, Creamy-bellied Thrush, Red-eyed (Chivi) Vireo and a male Hepatic Tanager (alias Red Tanager). Our main target here was the secretive Andean Slaty Thrush which was singing even in the heat of the day. After some searching we had amazing views of a male coming in to drink at a small pool of water, while some also managed views of a female. Next we headed north to the Sierras Chicas to start our search for one of South America's rarest woodpeckers, the *blackbody* and a host of other species. The forest here was superb and mixed with carandilla palms although our driver wasn't at all keen on the ever narrowing track and scratchy algarrobo thorn trees. Soon we saw three different Green-barred Woodpeckers, added a male Glittering-bellied Emerald and some White-tipped Doves and the stunning and localised Black-and-chestnut Warbling Finch; the only one of the tour. Finally we reached Mark's crescentchest site and had immediate response, followed by absolutely mind-blowing at-your-feet views of this crippling skulker to round off an extraordinary day's birding. At dawn, we were driving through dry chaco thorn woodlands to reach the Salinas Grandes; a vast salt pan of over 200 sq km. One of our main targets, the bizarre Spot-winged Falconet, performed almost immediately. Brushland Tinamous were in good voice and we managed distant views of one crossing the track. A next stop ensured us a pair of smart of, the now local, Black-crested Finches as well as Crested Hornero, the enigmatic Lark-like Brushrunner, Tufted Tit-Spinetail, Narrow-billed Woodcreeper, Suiriri Flycatcher and Greater Wagtail-Tyrant. With the temperature quickly rising we had to move on towards our prime target, the endemic Salinas Monjita, described new to science in 1979. As soon as we stepped out of the bus, David got onto one distant bird in record time and eventually we were treated to close up views of a smart pair. Our next strategy was to the bird the chaco woodlands until it got too hot, or until the insects got too bad, whichever came first! The birding was still prolific and we added Guira Cuckoo, White-fronted and Checkered Woodpeckers, Tawny-crowned Pygmy Tyrant, Southern Scrub, Streaked and Brown-crested Flycatchers, stunning White-tipped Plantcutter with its unforgetable *creaky door* voice, Variable Oriole and this time, point blank views of the smart Many-coloured Chaco Finch. Mission completed and we were on our way back to the hippified town of Capilla del Monte. Of course we had unfinished business in the forest, and a wander around the edge of town produced Variable Antshrike and the stunning Red-tailed Comet. Suddenly Rita found the mega we had all been longing for as a female Black-bodied Woodpecker foraged on tall trunks close to the track. It didn't hang around for long but everyone managed great views but we would not see it again. Further on we could hear a distant Crested Gallito, a bird we had already heard from a far.