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Agiorgitiko Published on Yiannis Karakasis MW (https://www.karakasis.mw) Page 1 of 14 Agiorgitiko Published on Yiannis Karakasis MW (https://www.karakasis.mw) Agiorgitiko By Yiannis Karakasis MW and Prof. Stefanos Koundouras In a nutshell Agiorgitiko is the most widely planted red Greek grape variety. It covers an area of 3.830 hectares, mainly in Nemea (nearly 2.500 ha) and secondarily across mainland Greece (Kavala, Drama, Attiki). According to Wine Grapes, it probably originated from Argolida and Korinthia, in the eastern part of the Peloponnese. The name refers to St George, which used to be the name of Nemea (there is a small, old church on the outskirts of the village). The Ancient Nemea village is situated on the location of the Ancient city (Nemea is a new village). Agiorgitiko is a beautiful and charming variety with unique immediacy and balance. It defines what measure is all about, as its ingredients (fruit, acidity, tannins, alcohol) are in full harmony; also a variety that does not pretend it produces the most layered wines of the planet but instead offers lovely primary fruit and joy. If Agiorgitiko were a movie, it would have certainly been directed by Steven Spielberg, the creator of modern blockbusters. Its classical expression is found in Nemea, though it has spread to the rest of the country giving fascinating interpretations in Drama, Kavala and mountainous Aigialeia in the Peloponnese. When Agiorgitiko producers are successful in controlling extraction and oak ageing, the result is unmatched, as it combines the deep fruity taste Page 2 of 14 Agiorgitiko Published on Yiannis Karakasis MW (https://www.karakasis.mw) with a gentle, soft touch on the palate and moderate to good ageing potential. This generally approachable and delectable expression of the variety sits across from some very artistic versions. Wines that are seriously age-worthy and the best examples can exceed ten years of bottle age. Nonetheless, the vast majority of the wines produced from Agiorgitiko are destined for a drinking window of up to six years. In the vineyard Agiorgitiko may also be termed Mavroudi or Mavro (Black) of Nemea. It is a late-ripening variety that ripens from mid-September onwards in the lowlands of Nemea, whereas in the highlands of Asprokambos (in Nemea) or Drama (in northern Greece) even later. It requires approximately 1800-1900 Growing Degree Days versus 2100 for Xinomavro. It is prone to fungal diseases, especially oidium (less so to downy mildew and botrytis) and is very sensitive to leafroll virus. It produces thick bunches with medium-sized berries. It can generally be considered a variety of average to good fertility, that can yield up to 120 hl/ha. Therefore, it performs better on poor soils, where its naturally high vigour can be controlled. Clonal selection is being carried out, which has selected six clones so far, but only one is commercially available at this point (for more see below). Clones As mentioned above, Agiorgitiko is a variety which is vigorous in its growth, susceptible to fungal diseases and late- ripening. It is usually harvested in mid-September, a period in which rainfall is a potential problem - this happened in the years 2002, 2009, 2011 and 2016. This brings us to the issue of virus-free cuttings and clonal selection; both are rather recent considerations in Greece. Nevertheless, some viticulturists can boast many years of research in this field. For the moment six clones of Agiorgitiko have been singled out, a result of the collaborative research of the VNB nursery with IFV. One clone ENTAV INRA 1252 [1] has already been released commercially and has been certified by the French Ministry of Agriculture; its main characteristic is that it is disease-free and that it ripens earlier (approximately two weeks). Moreover, it retains its typicity, it is productive and fruit-forward, but with 50% higher anthocyanin content and juicy tannins. This was the result of a long and demanding period of research (selecting and testing isolated clones) that lasted 15 years before a clone was achieved, with the chosen characteristics. It is unknown when the other clones will be available. The parent material has been planted in the Alea region of Argolida at 700 m altitude. Pictures of the bunches are shown below. No.1 is on the top left, and the images are in clockwise order. A brief description of the bunches of the six different clones is given below, together with the taste of the berries of each clone, just before harvest when I first tasted them. #1 Lots of flesh on the berries, juicy fruit, little bitterness. #2 Smaller berries compared to #1 with higher acidity and less obvious fruit. Small bunches. #3 Similar to #1 with fresh acidity and an overall green character. Big bunches. #4 Compact bunches, fleshy and ripe. Moderate bunches in size. #5 Ripe and balanced. Moderate bunches. #6 Loose bunches, seems less vigorous and concentrated. Moderate bunches. Page 3 of 14 Agiorgitiko Published on Yiannis Karakasis MW (https://www.karakasis.mw) [2] Terroirs of Nemea When one talks about Nemea, it will typically be described as the largest PDO region of the country, with approximately 2.500 hectares under vine. The variety that is considered the ultimate star is, none other, than the charming Agiorgitiko, which produces soft, fruity and easy-drinking wines. This may be a statement that involves much truth, but it is not the whole truth. Nemea is so much more; it is a mosaic of vineyards that vary in exposure, altitude and soil, and this particular assortment is expressed in the wines. They come in a wide variety of styles and qualities. One needs to walk through the vineyards and the broader area to fully grasp the diversity of the terroir. It is worth trying the wines of each locality separately to discern the breadth of all the different elements and how these are imprinted in the wines. It would not be an exaggeration if one were to say that Nemea rivals Naoussa in terms of complexity of terroirs; the difference being that Nemea producers are not crafting wine exclusively from specific terroirs or zones as they are doing in Naoussa. Nevertheless, all this diversity has not been clearly highlighted during these recent years. Not only have these facts not been made known, but the image of Nemea has suffered. Oceans and seas of cheap, bulk wine supply armies of thirsty consumers damaging the reputation of the area, which has come to be associated with poor quality, dubious wine. The landscape of the zone is defined by numerous valleys which have been formed by the flow of rivers, such as Asopos. These are: Page 4 of 14 Agiorgitiko Published on Yiannis Karakasis MW (https://www.karakasis.mw) 1. Nemea (central plateau) with subregions like Achladias, Katsena, Galatas, Aidonia, Petri, Kalivia, Zenes, Tsidaria, Ag. Dimitrios 2. Ancient Kleones 3. Ancient Nemea 4. Leontio-Gymno 5. Asprokambos-Psari 6. Kefalari-Klimenti 7. Malandreni 8. Xirokambos Plus Koutsi slopes, Dafni, Bozikas, Titanis The altitude for the zone starts at 300 meters and reaches above 900 meters, but vineyards are planted up to 850 meters in Asprokambos. Close to 20% of the vineyards are at above 500 meters. The climate, although generally Mediterranean and warm with 2000 GDD in the plain (lower in the highlands) is considerably cooler than that of Naoussa, and in practice shows significant difference even within short distances because of altitude variation. Rainfall (theoretically) is at an average of 750 mm mostly (80%) during the winter months. However, it does not follow any rule; thus each vintage is affected to the maximum. There are years with minimum rainfall (2007 with 408 mm, 2008 with 515 mm, 2013 with 541 mm) and others with close to 1000 mm (908 mm in 1999, 872 mm in 2010, 826 mm in 2014). And, as if the rain were not enough of a problem, add the much desired cold nights to the equation, and this makes it all the more exciting and complicated. The presence of clay and silt characterises the soils, but there is also limestone almost everywhere, but to a different depth, which seems to add a distinct feature to wines. Naturally, in the lowlands the soils are more fertile. In contrast, the farther one goes up to the hills, the soils become shallower, with more rocky features (best soils are found at the foothills of the slopes), and at the highest level, one encounters marl which gives excellent drainage and thus lower yields. All of what I describe above has not been highlighted before. Everybody considers Nemea as uniform, without realising its many facets. To a certain extent, this is justified by the fact that the majority of wines are blended from several terroirs (as described above). Koutsi has been singled out, and there has been some discussion about Asprokambos and Ancient Nemea. An exciting puzzle that is worth exploring and tasting. Let's take a look at the various terroirs. Ancient Nemea is the second sub-region with an altitude of 330 metres. The soils are mostly clay, with limestone found at depths greater than 50 cm. It has a few slopes, and the soils are less heavy and less fertile than those of classic Nemea. It is a narrow valley north to south, with hills of both west and eastern aspect. As expected on the slopes, there is more calcium carbonate (CaCO3). Xirokambos that can be considered an extension of Nemea is a beautiful valley, dark and late-ripening because high hills enclose it; the soils are red and clayey with good drainage, at 300-340 metres altitude.

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