garment dyeing.

apparel

intelligent threads. garment dyeing basics. 3

What is Garment Dyeing and why is it so famous? What is dyed?

Basic models of the collection are sewn “raw” and are dyed afterwards according to market trends and demands. A distinction is made between fabrics made from cellulosic fibres (e.g. This procedure makes it possible to respond quickly to market trends. Garment Dyeing is perfect to achieve special design cotton) and those made from synthetic fibres (e.g. polyester or polyamide). effects and a distinctive optical appearance. Garment Dyeing offers high flexibility regarding colours, logistics, materials Basically, all materials can be dyed, provided that the correct dyeing pro- management and supply. cedure is used.

Most important fibre is and continues to be cotton. Other natural fibres such as silk and wool as well as blends of them are increasingly gaining significance. In addition, more and more elastic fabrics are used (”Comfort-Stretch”, ”Power-Stretch”). Common dyeing procedures. Fashionable dyeing procedures. Polyamide fabrics are less prominent in Garment Dyeing. Polyamide fab- rics are often used for underwear or for medical equipment. A future trend is Reactive dyes. Old-Dye, Antique-Dye, Cold-Dye. Garment Dyeing of polyester clothes (e.g. in the sportswear segment) using • dyestuff is linked chemically to the fibre • dyed with e.g. pigments or direct dyestuffs high-temperature dyes. • for good to very good wash and rub fastness • by means of cellulase treatment or abrasive washing Garment dyed items include e.g. trousers, jackets, T-shirts, polo- and treatments (e.g. stone wash), washed-out effects can Direct or sulphide dyes. sweatshirts, shirts and blouses, workwear, carpets, bath mats and towels, be achieved socks, underwear, bags and shoes. • no real chemical reaction with the fibre • dyeing procedure is used if washed-out effects Dip-Dye. are required • pre-fabricated garments are dipped into the dye bath on hangers Pigment dyes. • even colour gradients are achieved by slow dipping • dyestuff is applied to the fibre using binder agents and raising the garment AMANN‘s product range for Garment Dyeing – Choosing the correct sewing thread. • no real chemical reaction with the fibre Top-Dye. Choosing the correct sewing thread for Garment Dyeing depends on the raw material in use and the type of dyeing pro- • very good light fastness cedure. Garment Dyeing itself requires a special performance of the sewing thread. The market is looking for sewing threads • sponges, rubber foam balls or rags are dipped into the with a good dyeability, sufficient strength, efficient sewing performance and with ideal elongation. With PremiumGD, AMANN dye bath and put into the dyeing machine together with developed a sewing thread that unifies all those requirements for the first time! the garments

• technique to achieve irregular and sketchy effects

Material Dyeing procedure AMANN products

Reactive dyes, substantive dyes, pigment dyes, Cotton/elastic cotton fabrics PremiumGD, RasantGD, Mercifil Tie-Dye. direct dyes • before the dyeing process, pre-fabricated garments are folded or knotted, put into nets or are fixed by strings Polyester High-temperature dye with disperse dyes sabaC, Serafil • technique to achieve irregular effects like batik Polyamide Acid dyes or metal complex dyes Garment Dyeing 120, PA Bauschgarn SGD

It is also a current method to use dyed polyester sewing threads in combination with cotton dyeing procedures. Using this method, the seam quality is optimised, but the original idea of Garment Dyeing is lost. Using sewing threads that are already dyed offers no advantages in terms of logistics and quick response to colour trends. The use of PremiumGD combines both!

No matter which dyeing procedure or sewing thread you choose – we recommend individual tests in any case. products and applications. 5

Premium

Viscose/cotton core spun Polyester/cotton core spun • THE innovation for Garment Dyeing • core spun thread made from 40% polyester • the first sewing thread that combines perfect and 60% cotton dyeability with elasticity • optimised dyeing properties due to the high cotton part • core spun thread made from 70% viscose • the ideal addition to Mercifil and and 30% cotton PremiumGD, recommended to be used in combination • robust in sewing • increased seam strength due to the polyester part • suitable as needle and looper thread compared to 100% cotton threads • robust in sewing

Product Ticket no. Tex no. Needle size Colour no. Make-up Product Ticket no. Tex no. Needle size Colour no. Make-up

20 150 Nm 140 – 160 1000 1.500 m Co 30 105 Nm 120 – 140 LT00 + DK01+ DK02 2.500 m Co

30 105 Nm 120 – 140 1000 2.500 m Co 50 60 Nm 100 – 110 LT00 + DK01+ DK02 5.000 m Co RasantGD PremiumGD 50 60 Nm 110 – 130 1000 5.000 m Co 75 40 Nm 90 – 100 LT00 + DK01+ DK02 5.000 m Co

75 40 Nm 100 – 120 1000 5.000 m Co 100 30 Nm 80 – 90 LT00 + DK01+ DK02 5.000 m Co

100 30 Nm 80 – 90 1000 5.000 m Co Explanation of colour no.: LT00 = Light with raw polyester core, recommended for light dyeing, depending on the type of treatment, it is also possible to use it all-purpose DK01 = Medium with pre-dyed polyester core, recommended for medium dyeing DK02 = Dark with pre-dyed polyester core, recommended for dark dyeing Application recommendation per ticket. Please consider: Due to the high cotton part, the dyeability is optimised. Nevertheless, only the cotton part is dyed during the dyeing process. The polyester core remains undyed. Ticket no. Tex no. Application recommendation

20 150 • needle thread for expressive decorative and topstitch seams Application recommendation per ticket. • needle thread for distinctive decorative and topstitch seams 30 • for highly stressed seams 105 Ticket no. Tex no. Application recommendation • for heavy weight and very elastic fabrics • under thread for highest safety on highly stressed seams (e.g. seat seams) especially • under thread in combination with ticket no. 20 and 30 30 105 while using lockstitch 50 60 • for stressed seams • for heavy weight and elastic fabrics • for heavy weight and very elastic fabrics • under thread in combination with ticket 30 for more safety on stressed seams • for lowly stressed seams 75 40 (e.g. seat seams) • for serging seams 50 60 • for stressed inside seams • for non-stressed seams • for heavyweight and elastic fabrics • for serging seams 100 30 • for lowly stressed inside seams • for fine fabrics (blouses, shirts, T-shirts) 75 40 • for serging seams • as embroidery thread • for non-stressed inside seams 100 30 • for serging seams • for fine fabrics (blouses, shirts, T-shirts)

Co= No matter which dyeing procedure or sewing thread you choose – we recommend individual tests in any case. products and applications. 7

AMANN’s products for Garment Dyeing – Application recommendation.

Depending on the article of clothing and the type of fabric in use (elastic or non-elastic, blends of materials, density, etc.), different concepts of sewing threads could be reasonable:

Sewing thread concept A (PremiumGD):

For seams visible from the outside For inside seams, not visible from the outside Cotton spun, mercerised Needle thread PremiumGD PremiumGD • the classic sewing thread for Garment Dyeing

• made from long-staple mercerised cotton Under thread PremiumGD PremiumGD • optimal dyeing properties • specific signal colour prevents confusion Sewing thread concept B (PremiumGD in combination with RasantGD):

For seams visible from the outside For inside seams, not visible from the outside

Product Ticket no. (Ne) Tex no. Ticket no. (Nm) Needle size Colour no. Make-up Needle thread PremiumGD RasantGD

10 180 18 Nm 140 – 160 3000 + 6231 1.000 m Co Under thread RasantGD RasantGD 12 105 30 Nm 120 – 130 3000 + 6231 2.500 m Co

Mercifil 24/2 70 50 Nm 110 – 130 3000 + 6231 5.000 m Co

40 50 60 Nm 80 – 100 3000 + 6231 5.000 m Co Sewing thread concept C (Mercifil in combination with RasantGD):

50 40 75 Nm 70 – 80 3000 + 6231 5.000 m Co For seams visible from the outside For inside seams, not visible from the outside 60 30 100 Nm 65 – 70 3000 + 6231 5.000 m Co Needle thread Mercifil RasantGD Explanation of colour no.: 3000 = bleached, 6231 = removable signal colour Under thread RasantGD RasantGD

Sewing thread concept D (Mercifil): Application recommendation per ticket. For seams visible from the outside For inside seams, not visible from the outside

Ticket no. Tex no. Application recommendation Needle thread Mercifil Mercifil

10 180 • needle thread for expressive decorative and topstitch seams Under thread Mercifil Mercifil

12 105 • needle thread for decorative and topstitch seams

• for high stressed seams Sewing thread concept E (RasantGD): 24/2 70 • for decorative seams For seams visible from the outside For inside seams, not visible from the outside • for normally stressed seams 40 50 • as under thread for decorative seams Needle thread RasantGD RasantGD • for lightweight fabrics (shirts, blouses and underwear) 50 40 • for serging seams Under thread RasantGD RasantGD • for fine fabrics (shirts, blouses and T- shirts) 60 30 • for serging seams

Co= No matter which dyeing procedure or sewing thread you choose – we recommend individual tests in any case. products and applications. 9

Comparison of sewing thread concepts. Improved seam quality due to higher elongation of the sewing thread.

20 Elongation in %

15

10 Very good sewing Very low higher Light spots possible on both high Single thread concept E Sewing thread concept RasantGD inside and outside seams performance, very high machine speed possible The special GD sewing thread concept for individual effects 5

0

Mercifil RasantGD PremiumGD Perfect and uniformly

The higher thread elongation of RasantGD and especially PremiumGD has a positive influence on seam elasticity and therefore has low low high Low sewing performance, Single thread concept D Sewing thread concept Mercifil dyed seams on both inside and outside high risk of thread breakages The classical GD sewing thread concept with established result in dyeability a direct effect on seam quality. However, it is very important to consider the correct thread balance.

The correct thread balance in the seam.

We know from long-term experience that inappropriate thread balance is the reason for broken seams in most cases.

Perfect and uniformly dyed Light spots possible on high low optimised Better sewing performance, Multiple thread concept Especially for Garment Dyeing, a perfect thread balance is crucial for the seam stability. The higher elongation of the sewing Sewing thread concept C Mercifil in combination with RasantGD seams on the outside inside seams less risk of thread breakages compared to concept D The modern GD sewing thread concept for increased seam elasticity thread (e.g. PremiumGD) has a positive impact, but it cannot compensate inappropriate thread balance in the seam completely.

Thread balance Consequence

Perfect thread balance = Very good sewing Very low higher

Perfect and uniformly dyed Light spots possible on high Multiple thread concept optimal seam elasticity and seam strength Sewing thread concept B PremiumGD in combination with RasantGD seams on the outside inside seams performance, very high machine speed possible The alternative GD sewing thread concept for all applications

Inappropriate thread balance = Thread breakages Perfect and uniformly highest Excellent sewing

low The drawing shows the lockstitch, please consider this also for the chainstitch. high Single thread concept Sewing thread concept A PremiumGD dyed seams on both inside and outside performance, very high machine speed possible The revolutionary GD sewing thread concept for all applications, especially for very elastic fabrics

Optical appearance after dyeing Seam elongation Abrasion resistance Repair rate Sewing performance Thread concept No matter which dyeing procedure or sewing thread you choose – we recommend individual tests in any case. applications – examples. 11

The following typical clothes for Garment Dyeing Trousers illustrate the application of the recommended Garment Dyeing has a large share in trousers’ pro- sewing thread concepts. The sewing advisory ser- duction. Customers appreciate the distinct look. vice of AMANN is happy to recommend individual Garment dyed trousers become frequently worn sewing thread concepts with regard to your fabrics favourites, which must be specifically robust and and processing parameters in use. Furthermore, durable. This is a particular challenge for sewing sewing thread calculations are available on request. threads, which must provide perfect dyeability and at the same time sufficient strength and sewability. Shirts & Blouses.

Garment Dyeing is also used for blouses and shirts. Production of collars and cuffs, hems, button panels and yokes asks for accurate seams, perfect dyeing results and sufficient strength. AMANN‘s sewing thread range for Garment Dyeing has been developed to meet these challenges.

con- con- Seam type Seam appearance Stitch type cept Needle thread Bobbin or looper thread Seam type Seam appearance Stitch type cept Needle thread Bobbin or looper thread

Ticket Tex Ticket Tex Ticket Tex Ticket Tex Product no. no. Product no. no. Product no. no. Product no. no.

A PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40 A PremiumGD 50 60 PremiumGD 50 60 Closing seams (not 301 Closing seams (not 301 B RasantGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40 B RasantGD 50 60 RasantGD 50 60 visible from the outside) lockstitch visible from the outside) lockstitch C RasantGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40 C RasantGD 50 60 RasantGD 50 60

A PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40 A PremiumGD 50 60 PremiumGD 50 60 Closing seams (not 401 Closing seams (not 401 B RasantGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40 B RasantGD 50 60 RasantGD 50 60 visible from the outside) chainstitch visible from the outside) chainstitch C RasantGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40 C RasantGD 50 60 RasantGD 50 60

A PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40 A PremiumGD 30 105 PremiumGD 50 60 Topstitch seams (visible 301 Topstitch seams (visible 301 B PremiumGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40 B PremiumGD 30 105 RasantGD 50 60 from the outside) lockstitch from the outside) lockstitch Mercifil 50 40 RasantGD 75 40 Mercifil 12 105 RasantGD 50 60

A PremiumGD 100 30 PremiumGD 100 30 A PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40 504 504 Serging seams 3-thread overlock B RasantGD 100 30 RasantGD 100 30 Serging seams 3-thread overlock B RasantGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40 stitch stitch C RasantGD 100 30 RasantGD 100 30 C RasantGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40

A PremiumGD 100 30 PremiumGD 100 30 A PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40 304 404 Button hole B PremiumGD 100 30 PremiumGD 100 30 Button hole B PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40 button hole button hole C Mercifil 50 40 Mercifil 50 40 Mercifil 50 40 Mercifil 50 40

A PremiumGD 75 40 A PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40 107 304 Attach button B PremiumGD 75 40 Bar tack B PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40 attach button bar tack C Mercifil 50 40 C Mercifil 50 40 Mercifil 50 40

A = PremiumGD | B = PremiumGD in combination with RasantGD | C = Mercifil in combination with RasantGD A = PremiumGD | B = PremiumGD in combination with RasantGD | C = Mercifil in combination with RasantGD No matter which dyeing procedure or sewing thread you choose – we recommend individual tests in any case. EN 02000124 103855

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