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Textile Institute The Journal of the TEXTILE INSTITUTE Official Journal for Communications (Transactions) released for Publication by the British Cotton Industry Research Association (including its Rayon and Silk Sections), the Wool Industries Research Association, the Linen Industry Research Association and the Technological Laboratory of the Indian Central Cotton Committee CONTENTS PROCEEDINGS SECTION Textile Terms and Definitions ... ... ... ... r—... ‘¥ T 5l - P 153 Scottish Sections— The Molecular Structure of Fibres : a Review of the present position— Astbury P154-P155 Shrinkage of Fabrics during Raising— Atkinson and Whezoell P 156-PI57 London Section— A Brief Review of the Polish Textile Industry— Manitius ... P158-P160 Tripartite Working Parties for Industries ... P161-P164 Correspondence P164-P166 Review ... PI 66 General Items : Staff, Bolton Branch, Subscriptions of Members retiring from business, Institute Diplomas, Institute Member­ ship, Obituary, Employment Register P166-P170 Institute Meetings Cover ii TRANSACTIONS SECTION 21— Growth Changes in “ Tender ” Wool— Lang ... T243-T252 22—An Automatic Sliver and Roving Regularity Tester and an Automatic Yarn Regularity Tester— Anderson, Caveney, Foster and Womersley T253-T266 ABSTRACTS SECTION ....................................................... A393-A452 THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE ST. MARY'S PARSONAGE, MANCHESTER TELEPHONE BLACKFRIARS 2016 INSTITUTE MEETINGS IRISH SECTION F rid ay, 2nd Novem ber, 1^45— Belfast. 7.45 p.m. Lecture: “ Carpet Weaving,” by T. Peattie (Ulster Carpet Mills), at the College of Technology. Thursday, 15th N ovem ber, 1945— B elfast. 7.45 p.m. Lecture: “ Dyeing of Nylon;” by Dr. Abbott (Imperial Chemical Industries Ltd.), at the College of Tech­ nology. T uesday, 27th November, 1945— Belfast. 7.45 p.m. Lecture: “ Flax Spin­ ning,” by S. A. G. Caldwell (Textile Con­ sultant), at the College of Technology. LANCASHIRE SECTION F rid ay, 9th N ovem ber, 1945— Manchester. 1 .0 p.m. Lunch-time njeet- ing at the Institute’s premises. “ Points in Modern Ring Spinning,”' by A. E. Whitehead (Platt Bros. & Co. Ltd.). Tuesd ay, 13th November, 1945.— Bolton. 7.30 p.m. Lecture; " A Modern- Fancy Loom,” by L. Armstrong (Tootal Broadhurst Lee Co. Ltd.), at the Municipal Technical College, Bolton. F rid ay, 16th November, 1945— Manchester. 6.45 p.m. Lecture: " Develop­ ments in Textile Finishing Machinery,” by K. S. Laurie, M.A., A.M.I.Mech.E., A.M.I.E.E. (John Dalglish & Sons) at the Engineers Club, Albert Square, Man­ chester. By invitation of the Manchester Association of Engineers. MIDLANDS SECTION F rid ay, 16th November, 1945— Leicester. 6.45p.m. Lecture “ The Future of the British Fully-Fashioned Hosiery Trade.” Group addresses by Messrs. J. A. Beachell (Machine Builder), A. W. Eley (Manchester), A. R. Knight, B.Sc. (Rayon Manufacturer), and M. Stevenson, M.Sc. (Dyer and Finisher), at the Colleges of Art and Technology, Leicester (Room 104). YORKSHIRE SECTION M onday, 12th November, 1945-^Bradford. 7,0 p.m. Lecture : “ Are Worsteds and Woollens Competitive or Complementary?” by H. D. Halliday, B.A. (Bradford), and other speakers. (Joint meeting with Bradford, Batlev, Dewsbury and Morley Textile Societies), at the Mid­ land Hotel, Bradford. T hursday, 22nd November, 1945— Bradford. 6.30 p.m. Lecture: “ Making up of Clothing,” by G. W. Sumpter, (Messrs. Hart & Levy Ltd., Leicester), at the Midland Hotel, Bradford. Saturday, 24th N ovem ber, 1945— Leeds. 9.30 a.m. Visit to Joseph May & Sons (Leeds) Ltd., Maenson House, White­ hall Road, Leeds, 12. OCTOBER 1945 P151 THE JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE Vol. X X X V I OCTOBER 1945 No. 10 TEXTILE TERMS AND DEFINITIONS The Textile Terms and Definitions Committee has approved the following Lists of definitions and notes for publication. The terms in the Tentative List will be considered again after a period of two months with any relevant comments and criticisms which might be received. After a more lengthy period terms in the Recommended List will be reconsidered before the definitions in their final form are adopted. Readers are invited to send comments on any of the definitions and notes, or to submit for consideration textile terms which in their opinion require clarification. Communications should be addressed to the General Secretary. TENTATIVE LIST No. 6 (October, 1945) Chase. n. The conical part of the body of yarn in cop, bobbin, spool, tube, or pirn form on which the thread is coiled during one traverse. Chase Length. n. (1) In reference to the package itself the length of the chase is measured along its surface, and not by its projection on the package axis. (2) In other contexts, where attention is centred on the yarn of which the package is composed, the term chase length refers to the length of yarn wound on in one complete traversing cycle. Condenser. n. The word to have the ending— er. Crimp. n. (1) Fibre. The waviness of a fibre. Note.— This fibre characteristic may be expressed nufnerically by refer­ ence to the number of waves or crimps per unit length or (as in U.S.A.) by the difference in distance between points on the fibre as it lies in an unstretched condition and the same two points when the fibre is straightened under suitable tension, expressed as a percentage of the unstretched length. (2) Y arn , (local, take-up, regain, shrinkage). The waviness or distortion of a yam due to interlacing in the fabric. Note. — In woven fabrics the crimp is measured by the relation between cloth length and the corresponding length of yarn when it has been removed from the cloth and straightened under suitable tension. Crimp may be expressed numerically as (a) percentage crimp, w hich is 100 x difference between yam and cloth length divided by cloth length, and (b) criimp ratio, which is the ratio of yam length to cloth length. In both methods the cloth length is the basis, that is to say 100 for percentage crimp and 1 for crimp ratio. This definition could logically be applied to knitted fabrics or fabrics of pile construction, but it is preferable to employ special terms, e.g. “ stitch length,” "take-up,” "terry ratio.” PI 52 Proceedings Filament. n. A fibre of indefinitely great length. Rayon Staple. n. Rayon fibres which have been stapled from filaments, usually by cutting to predetermined length. Roving. n. The name given, individually or collectively, to the relatively thin fibrous strands produced in the later and/or final processes of preparation for spinning. N o te.— In the special case of condenser spinning, the roving from which the yam is made is obtained directly from the condenser part of the finished card. Stubbing. n. The name given, individually or collectively, to the relatively thick fibrous strands produced in the early stages of attenuation of finished slivers in preparation for spinning. Staple. n. A lock or tuft of fibres of similar properties. Hence a lock or tuft prepared to demonstrate fibre length. In bulk a mass of fibres having a certain homogeneity of properties, usually length. Staple. v. To bring fibres to a certain uniformity of properties, usually length, e.g. by sorting wool or cutting filaments. Take-up. n. See Crimp. Tear. n. The ratio of top to noil, produced in combing. Terry Ratio. n. See Crimp. Traverse. n. The distance between the extreme positions of the thread guiding means in one cycle of its movement. N o te .— In addition to its ordinary dictionary meaning, connoting trans­ latory movement, the term Traverse is here additionally defined for textile purposes as a dimension. The traverse may be a constant quantity, as in building a cheese or in winding on to a double­ flanged bobbin; or may be variable, as in building a ring bobbin or conical-ended roving bobbin. In the building of roving-built ring bobbins and conical-ended roving bobbins, the traverse during the winding-on of the first complete layer of yarn or roving determines the lift (q.v.). Otherwise the traverse is smaller than the lift. It should also be noted that the traverse is not necessarily the same as the length of the chase (q.v.). The two are equal only when the path of the thread-guiding means is inclined to the axis of the package, as for example in the case of a drum-wound cone. RECOMMENDED LIST No. 4 (October, 1945) Bleaching. n. The procedure, other than by scouring only, of improving the whiteness of textile material, by decolourising it from the grey state, with or without the removal of natural colouring matter and/or extraneous substances. Combing. n. Straightening and parallelising fibres and removing short fibres and impuri­ ties by using a comb or combs. Textile Terms and Definitions P I5 3 C ondense r-spun. adj. Descriptive of yarn spun from sliver which had been consolidated from strips of card web by rubbing. N o te .— The definition “ condenser-spun” includes “ woollen spun,” and the term “ condenser-spun ” is preferred. Lift. 11. The distance measured axially between the extremities of the body of yarn or rove on a textile package. N o te.— Although originally, and still generally, used in reference to a package built on an upright spindle, this term may properly be used in reference to any textile package, without restriction as to the manner of its formation. Mungo. n. The fibrous material made in the woollen trade by pulling down new or old hard woven or milled cloth or felt in rag form. Noil. n. The short fibres rejected in combing. Recomber’s Noil. n. The short fibres rejected when recombing tops. Shoddy. n. The fibrous material made in the woollen trade by pulling down new or old knitted or loosely woven fabrics in rag form. Sliver. n. An assemblage of fibres in rope form without twist.
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