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The Valley

Why Go? Orléans ...... 353 In centuries past, the River Loire was a key strategic area, ...... 358 one step removed from the French capital and poised on the crucial frontier between northern and southern Chambord ...... 361 . Kings, queens, dukes and nobles established their Cheverny ...... 362 feudal strongholds and country seats along the Loire, Chaumont ...... 363 and the broad, fl at valley is sprinkled with many of the Tours ...... 364 most extravagant castles and fortresses in France. From Chenonceau ...... 369 sky- topping turrets and glittering banquet halls to slate- crowned cupolas and crenellated towers, the hundreds of Amboise ...... 372 châteaux dotted around the Loire Valley – now a Unesco Villandry ...... 374 World Heritage Site – comprise 1000 years of astonishingly Saumur ...... 379 rich architectural and artistic treasures. If it’s aristocratic Angers ...... 384 pomp and architectural splendour you’re looking for, the Loire Valley is the place to explore.

Best Places to Eat » Le Pot de Lapin (p381 ) » Les Années 30 (p379 ) When to Go » Le Gambetta (p 381 ) » Cap Sud (p 367 ) Tours °C/°F Te m p Rainfall Inches/mm » Chez Noé (p356 ) 40/104 6/150

30/86 5/125 4/100 Best Places to 20/68 3/75 Stay 10/50 2/50 0/32 » Château de Verrières 1/25 (p 381 ) -10/14 0 » Hôtel Diderot (p 378 ) J FDNOSAJJMAM » Château Beaulieu (p 381 ) Late April to June and July September and » Hôtel de l’Abeille (p355 ) early May The Cycle the trails of October Wine » La Levraudière (p363 ) Fêtes de Jeanne the Loire Valley tasting during the » Le Pavillon des Lys (p373 ) d’Arc in Orléans from château to harvest time. culminate with château. » Hôtel Ronsard (p366 ) parades on 8 May. 350 PLAN AHEAD Wine in the Loire Valley Before you go, plan Vineyards (www.vinsdeloire.com) dot the fertile Loire Val- your transport, re- ley and produce some excellent, but relatively little-known serve rooms in hot red, white and crémant (sparkling) wines. Anjou and Sau- spots like Saumur, mur alone have 30 AOCs (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée), Amboise or Chinon and Touraine has nine, including some lively gamays. The and book castle tours most predominant red, though, is the cabernet franc. (opposite) or the Appellations include Saumur-Champigny (try Domaine Cadre Noir equitation Clos Rougeard), Bourgueil (try Domaine de la Butte) and presentation (p379 ). Chinon (try the Cuvée des Tireaux from Domaine Olek- Mery). For whites, Vouvray’s chenin blancs are excellent and Sancerre and the appellation across the river, Pouilly-Fu- The Loire’s Best mé, produce great sauvignon blancs. The bubbly appella-

THE LOIRE VALLEY LOIRE THE Gardens tion Crémant de Loire spans many communities. Maisons des Vins (literally, wine houses) in Blois, Sau- » L e C l o s L u c é ( p 3 7 3 ) mur, Cheverny and Angers welcome visitors for tasting » Chambord (p361 ) and guidance on the region’s wine. The Route Touristique » Villandry (p 374 ) des Vignobles is a Loire Valley wine route; before you set out, stop by a tourist offi ce and arm yourself with the Loire » Cheverny (p362 ) Valley Vineyards booklet, which lists and maps all the do- » Chenonceau (p369 ) maines, and Sur La Route des Vins de Loire, which maps » Chaumont (p 363 )

from Blois to Angers and the coast. » Beauregard (p364 )

Spring Music ON THE TRAIL OF ARTISTS & WRITERS Festival While the fantastical history and high jinks of French royalty gets top billing in the Loire, the valley has also Every Easter over 100,000 played host to a stream of Europe’s greatest artists music fans converge on and thinkers. Mathematician and philosopher René Bourges to take in the lat- Descartes, Pierre de Ronsard and writer and est in innovative rock, roots doctor François Rabelais (p 378 ) were all born in the and French music at Le Loire; Leonardo da Vinci (see p373 ) spent the last Printemps de Bourges years of his life here; and luminaries from sculptor (www.printemps-bourges. Alexander Calder to novelist Honoré de Balzac (p 376 ) com). lived and created in this region. Some, like Jean Gênet, were imprisoned here (p 383 ). Then there were Resources those, like Alexandre Dumas (see p383 ), who were simply inspired here. » Loire Valley heritage site: www.valdeloire.org » Walks and cycling routes in the Loire Valley: www. Top 5 Activities for Kids randonnee-en-val-de-loire. » Be razzle-dazzled by magic and illusion at Maison de la com Magie (p359 ). » The natural environment » Explore kooky, spooky caves around Saumur (p 382 ). of the River Loire: www. observatoireloire.fr, www. » Celebrate comic book character Tintin with cracks of cpie-val-de-loire.org, in lightning and pounding thunder (p362 ). French » Peer into itsy-bitsy châteaux or play in the parks around » Regional transport de- a pointy pagoda (p373 ). tails: www.destineo.fr » Hunt for treasure at Château de (p383 ).