Flapper Dress
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Comparison Assignment: Class 11-17 Alexandra Porter FASH 247 Prof Kroener Spring 2016 M/W 2pm Class 11 The Directoire Period 1795-1799 The Empire Period 1800-1820 The Romantic Period 1820-1850 Class 11 1a. Louis XVI, King of the French: The Directoire Period, 1792 1b. Daks Fall 2015 - Red Cap of Liberty, red hat worn by - Modern adaptation of Red supporters of the French Revolution Cap of Liberty in color and - Revolutionary Cockade, red white volume, though diverging in and blue ruffled pin also showed a shape sign of support Class 11 2a. Costume Parisien: The Empire Period, 1810 2b. Alexander McQueen Fall 2010 - Pantaloons, tight fitted pants often with a - Similar to the pantaloons, stirrup or instep piece at bottom to ensure fit given the tight fit and stirrup - Tailcoat, coat that’s shorter in front with over shoe volume/ length at back Class 11 3a. Madame Fouler by Louis Léopold Boilly: 3b. Dior Spring 2013 The Empire Period, !810 - Haircut “a la Victime”, short choppy hairstyle - Modern adoption of the inspired by the haircut of the royal family prior to haircut “a la Victime” with its going to the guillotine fringy ends and choppy look in - Red neckpiece, often seen as a band or string, a straighter form here a necklace to mimic the slice of the guillotine Class 11 4a. La Belle Assemblée: The Empire Period, 1818 4b. Dsquared2 Fall 2012 - Reticule, small purse used to carry belongings - Reticule inspired bag because - Pelisse, fitted, long jacket with Empire of it’s small size, shape and silhouette whose cut followed that of the dress usage underneath Class 11 5a. Fashion Plate, Ladies' Monthly Museum: The Romantic Period, 1825 5b. Roksanda Ilincic Fall 2009 Leg of mutton sleeves - , large sleeves with - Leg of mutton sleeves, greatest volume at shoulder and gradual demonstrate fullness at the narrowing to wrist shoulder and tapering towards - Bonnet, decorative hat fastened under the wrist chin for stability, with a bow for style Class 12 The Crinoline Period 1860-1865 The Bustle Period & the Nineties 1870-1900 Class 12 1a. Fashion plate, Harper's Monthly Magazine: 1b. Chado Ralph Rucci Fall 2011 The Crinoline Period, 1861 - Pagoda sleeve, large, funnel - Reminiscent of the pagoda shaped sleeve sleeve in wide shape and - Shawl, garment around shoulders volume Class 12 2a. The Crinoline Period, c 1863 2b. Alexander McQueen Spring 2013 - Crinoline, metal hoop skirt - Influenced by the crinoline in used to support skirts construction and shape, though - Chemise, undergarment dress worn over the skirt rather than under Class 12 3a. Bat Masterson: The Bustle Period, 1879 3b. Agnes B. Menswear Spring 2016 - Sack coat, loose fitting jacket - Sack coat style sport jacket and worn for casual occasions bowler hat, both resemble earlier - Bowler hat, round top hat with styles based on fit and use short brim Class 12 4a. Harper's Bazar: The Bustle Period & The Nineties, 1892 4b. Ayse Deniz Yegin Spring 15 - The combination, drawers and chemise come - A nod to the combination in together as one undergarment piece concept of one piece dressing, the - Lace trim, featured at banded ends and around lightweight, white fabric neck and arm holes Class 12 5a. The Bustle Period, c 1878 5b. Ulla Maija Bridal 2010 - Waterfall bustle, structure underneath skirt - Similar to the waterfall bustle creates wide shape at back, fabric is pinned because of volume and pickups at accordingly to create waterfall effect the back - Corset evident in the small waist Class 13 The Edwardian Period & WWI 1900-1920 Class 13 1a. Les Modes, 1908 1b. Alexander McQueen Spring 2016 - Lingerie dress, white cotton or - Lingerie dress is reinterpreted linen dress with ruffles in a modern way via pants, - Parasol, popular accessory with a high low tunic whose often adorned with bows and lace and ruffles resemble the ruffles original idea Class 13 2a. New Idea Pattern Company, 1903 2b. Roksanda Ilincic Spring 2010 - Bishop sleeve, no volume at - Sleeve similar to bishop sleeve shoulder, puff at wrist of the Edwardian period with the - Walking stick, popular accessory volume concentrated at the end and a cuff to finish it off Class 13 3a. 1910s 3b. Armani Fall 2011 - Hobble skirt, constricted ankles - Reminiscent of the hobble skirt and lower leg with its tight fit around the ankles - Corset, starts under bust and that hinders walking extends past hips Class 13 4a. The Edwardian Period, 1900 4b. Canali Menswear Fall 2013 - Chesterfield coat (left, outer garment), tailored - Modern Chesterfield coat with the fit of a sack jacket, contrasting velvet because of contrasting upper collar collar, length and cut - Top hat, dressy hat with taller top Class 13 5a. Mariano Fortuny, 1920 5b. Oscar de la Renta Spring 2012 - Delphos gown, highly pleated - Reminiscent of the Delphos gown silk gown with tapered fit with its highly pleated, silk-like - Cropped haircut, sign of the fabric and column silhouette 1920s to come Class 14 The Twenties, Thirties & World War II 1920-1947 Class 14 1a. Actress Alice Joyce, 1926 1b. Louis Vuitton Spring 2011 - Flapper dress, features a loose fit, dropped - Flapper dress, features a waist, exposed arms and embellishments loose silhouette, a deep v - Bob haircut, fashionable short hair for young neckline & fringe like the women original styles Class 14 2a. Jeanne Lanvin, c 1920 2b. Armani Spring 2013 - Robe de Style, in juxtaposition to flapper - Reminiscent of the Robe de Style dress with a voluminous skirt and more in the more tapered waist & full, emphasized waist long, pleated skirt - Floral embellishment, indicative of the feminine, youthful flair of Lanvin Class 14 3a. c 1920 3b. Derek Lam Spring 2015 - Wide leg pants for women, trendsetters wore - Similar to the former wide leg the rebellious pants for leisure, sports and travel pants with the high waist & - Cloche hat, small close-fitted cap worn at pockets angles Class 14 4a. Elsa Schiparelli 1938 4b. Milly Spring 2016 - Embellished cape in shocking - Cape in shocking pink, uses pink, the same iconic color for a - Surrealistic elements as seen in garment with a similar use the abstracted sun embroidery Class 14 5a. c 1940 5b. Christian Dior Fall 2008 - Zoot suit, features an - Reminiscent of the zoot suit with extremely wide cut, became the wide, baggy trousers popular with lower income class and immigrants - Oxfords, two-tone shoes Class 15 The New Look 1947-1960 Class 15 1a. Christian Dior original sketch, 1950s 1b. Dior Spring 2012 The New Look - The New Look, by Dior as described by - resurfaces in fashion writer Carmen Snow comprised of a this modern era, showing how longer voluminous, skirt & soft shoulders fashion styles from yesteryear - Pillbox hat are still relevant today even within the same couture house Class 15 2a. Advertisement, 1950s 2b. Jean Paul Gauthier, Spring 2013 - Merry widow, long line brassiere with grosgrain and - Corset reminiscent of the merry power mesh provides support widow with the bust support, - Garter belt, holds up stockings cinched waist and extension beyond hips Class 15 3a. Balenciaga 1954 3b. Balenciaga Fall 2006 - Cocoon jacket, wide cut coat with - Modern interpretation of the cocoon jacket rounded back and sloping sleeves with its wide cut and rounded back and - Clutch purse, fashionable accessory sides shows how cuts come back in style within the same design house Class 15 4a. Yves Saint Laurent for Dior, 1958 4b. Max Mara Spring 2011 - Trapeze dress, wide A-line - Similar to the trapeze dress with silhouette from bust to hem its wide A line cut from bust to - Wide-brimmed hat hem Class 15 5a. Teddy boy style, London 1955 5b. Bottega Veneta Fall 2010 - Emergence of Edwardian style seen in - Evidence of the Teddy boy style the Teddy boy style with elements with Chesterfield-type jackets, such as the Chesterfield, contrasting trousers and slicked hair velvet collar - Slimmer fit trouser with center crease Class 16 The Sixties & Seventies 1960-1980 Class 16 1a. Yves Saint Laurent 1b. Prada Fall 2011 - Mondrian dress, direct - Modern interpretation of the influence of artist Piet Mondrian dress and Piet Mondrian’s work Mondrian's work - Beehive, popular hairstyle volumuinius updo Class 16 2a. Mary Quant, c 1960 2b. Bluemarine Fall 2015 - Miniskirt as invented by - Miniskirt and black leather designer Mary Quant boots reminiscent of 1960s - Black leather boots, popular style accessory worn with short skirts Class 16 3a. Rudi Gernreich 1964 3b. Gloria Coelho Spring 2013 - Plastic and vinyl clothes such as this - Reminiscent of Rudi plastic paneled dress were made Gernwhich’s designs because famous by Gernreich of the plastic and see-through - Shift silhouette, straight boxy fit paneling Class 16 4a. Yves Saint Laurent 1966 4b. The Row Fall 2011 - Le smoking suit, inspired by - Modern interpretation of the le smoking men’s fashion with trousers, a suit with the borrowed-from-the-boys blazer and white shirt trouser, blazer and white shirt - Pussy bow, feminine touch to counteract the masculinity Class 16 5a. c 1970 5b. Topman Design Spring 2015 - Bellbottoms, flared pants with - Pants similar to bellbottoms belted waist worn by men and because of the flare at the women bottom, wide-collared shirt - Wide-collared button-down shirt, a fashion staple Class 17 The Eighties & Nineties 1980-2000 Class 17 1a. c 1984 1b. Kanye West x Adidas Fall 2015 - Fitness fashion is popular, - Modern interpretation of with high-cut leotards and fitness fashion styles made shiny colored tights poplar in the 1980s including - Leg warmers were common tights and leg warmers accessories of the time Class 17 2a. Run DMC 1990s 2b. Björn Borg Spring 2016 - The group Run DMC popularized hip-hop - Reminiscent of 1990s hip-hop styles such as these wind-breakers style with wind-breakers and - Chunky sneakers and bling jewelry were sneakers favored accessories Class 17 3a.