Issue no: 1194/202 • OCTOBER 15 - 17, 2019 • PUBLISHED TWICE WEEKLY PRICE: GEL 2.50

In this week’s issue...

Weekly Entrepreneurial News @entrepreneur.ge NEWS PAGE 2 France24: 7,000 Claimed Asylum in France Last Year NEWS PAGE 2 Interview with Levan Kobiashvili, President of Bocuse d’Or FOCUS BUSINESS PAGE 4 ON DEVELOPMENT Salaries York Towers promises Increased by GEL 24 green development in the capital's suburbs PAGE 6 Annually in the Last 5 Years BUSINESS PAGE 5 Kartuli Hotel: Changing the Georgia’s Sovereign Credit Rating Raised to Hospitality Game in Batumi BB with Stable Outlook by Standard & Poor's BUSINESS PAGE 7 Conference and Exhibition BY TEA MARIAMIDZE Halls at the Museum of Fine

nternational rating company Standard&Poor’s (S&P) improved its Arts & the Art House long-term foreign and local currency sovereign credit ratings on the Government of Georgia to 'BB' from ‘BB-’. It also affi rmed the BUSINESS PAGE 8 short-term ratings at 'B'. The outlook is stable. The organization said that Georgia has maintained comparatively “Voyage au Caucase”: Ihigh growth rates over the past few years, even in a challenging external environment. The outlook reads that the Georgian economy expanded by nearly 4% A Still Untranslated on average over 2015-2018, weathering periods of anemic external demand as trading partners were hit by falling oil prices, regional currencies were Travel Classic devalued, and some fell into recession. Image source: Budapest business journal CULTURE PAGE 11 “Georgia's economy grew by nearly 5% in real terms in the fi rst half of the year, incorporating a slight slowdown in the second half, lower tour-

ism revenues and muted consumption, following the Lari's depreciation. Prepared for Georgia Today Business by We project real GDP growth of 4.5% in 2019. We have revised up this Markets Asof11ͲOctͲ2019 estimate from our previous 4.0% for the full year,” the outlook reads. STOCKS Price w/w m/m BONDS Price w/w m/m S&P believes that Georgia's economy will continue to grow at a com- BankofGeorgia(BGEOLN) GBP13.33 +4,0% +1,1% GEOROG04/21 104.28(YTM3.84%) Ͳ0,1% Ͳ0,4% GeorgiaCapital(CGEOLN) GBP9.97 Ͳ0,1% Ͳ2,8% GEORG04/21 105.95(YTM2.77%) Ͳ0,1% +0,3% paratively high 4% annually over 2019-2022, and expects it to grow faster GHG(GHGLN) GBP2.04 Ͳ1,7% +1,0% GRAIL07/22 109.64(YTM3.99%) Ͳ0,1% Ͳ0,1% than other countries in the region. TBCBankGroup(TBCGLN) GBP12.20 +1,7% Ͳ2,2% GEBGG07/23 103.26(YTM5.04%) +0,3% +0,1% “Despite the strong growth outlook, we expect Georgia's per capita COMMODITIES Price w/w m/m CURRENCIES Price w/w m/m CrudeOil,Brent(US$/bbl) 60,44 +3,5% Ͳ0,6% GEL/USD 2,9687 +0,2% +0,1% income will remain modest at below $5,000 through 2022,” the organiza- GoldSpot(US$/OZ) 1479,13 Ͳ1,7% Ͳ1,2% GEL/EUR 3,2794 +0,8% +0,5% tion said, adding Georgia's institutional settings remain favorable in the GEL/GBP 3,7640 +3,1% +3,0% INDICES Price w/w m/m GEL/CHF 2,9770 +0,0% Ͳ0,3% context of the region, with several established precedents regarding FTSE100 7238,03 +1,2% Ͳ1,4% GEL/RUB 0,0464 +1,3% +2,4% power transfer, and a degree of checks and balances between various FTSE250 20033,93 +2,8% +0,3% GEL/TRY 0,5057 Ͳ2,7% Ͳ1,9% DAX 12483,02 +3,9% +1,0% GEL/AZN 1,7495 +0,2% +0,1% government bodies. DOWJONES 26985,49 +1,5% Ͳ0,6% GEL/AMD 0,0062 ͲͲ NASDAQ 8109,87 +1,6% Ͳ0,7% GEL/UAH 0,1211 +0,5% +1,9% The outlook reads that S&P sees some downside risks from the ruling MSCIEMEE 169,79 +0,9% Ͳ2,2% EUR/USD 0,9056 Ͳ0,6% Ͳ0,3% Georgian Dream (GD) party's majority in parliament should it use this MSCIEM 996,50 Ͳ0,0% Ͳ2,0% GBP/USD 0,7888 Ͳ2,7% Ͳ2,8% SP500 2988,90 +1,2% Ͳ0,4% CHF/USD 0,9973 +0,2% +0,4% majority to solidify its incumbent position. MSCIFM 2586,13 +0,1% Ͳ0,8% RUB/USD 64,0626 Ͳ0,9% Ͳ2,2% GTIndex(GEL) 1582,68 ͲͲTRY/USD 5,8749 +3,1% +2,2% Continued on page 5 GTIndex(USD) 1208,13 ͲͲAZN/USD 1,7001 ͲͲ GEORGIA TODAY 2 NEWS OCTOBER 15 - 17, 2019 France24: 7,000 Georgians Claimed Asylum in France Last Year

@entrepreneur.ge BY ANA DUMBADZE Gamarjoba! I’m the Editor-in-Chief of the Georgian edition of Entrepreneur magazine and I’m here to share the top weekly Entrepreneurial news with you: ,000 Georgians claimed asylum in France last year - a higher Exploring is now possible without a direct number than Syrians or Iraqis, visit, through VR application ‘Virtual Tbilisi’ by France24 has reported. Georgian company Vrex Immersive. The app offers The news agency reports that 22 videos depicting 360-degree images of 22 popular 7since 2007, Georgians no longer need a tourist locations in Tbilisi, with an audioguide visa to visit France, noting that "critics included. Users can virtually visit the tourist say many of them take advantage of the attractions of the capital and listen to their history. law to apply for asylum and benefi t from Take a virtual ride on the Rike ropeway to Narikala free healthcare." Fortress or a funicular climb, explore samples of The reporter notes that “all the tickets Tbilisi street art, the Ethnographic Museum, various to Paris from Kutaisi Airport have been recreational areas, colorful Tbilisi yards and more. fully booked. “ Photo source: France24.com The app is available on Android Play Store and Due to the increase in the number of representatives of the French Immigra- while the Georgian Immigration Service Oculus Go App Store platforms and is free to access. asylum seekers from Georgia in France, tion Service work at Georgian airports, offi cers work at French airports. TBC, to contribute to the development of a startup ecosystem, gives time and space to its most innovative employees to test their skills in startups and then decide whether to put all Court Orders GEL 10,000 Bail their energy into the new business or return to TBC. TBC's new project ‘Maternity Leave,’ received great feedback and the jury heard for Majority MP Ilia Jishkariani dozens of interesting ideas. The winners, ‘Ge Parts’ (Paata Beriashvili, TBC Bank Credit Business Development League, Service Expert), ‘Inventor’ (Tornike Kipiani, TBC BY ANA DUMBADZE Bank External Sales Network Development Manager) and ‘Mushroom’ (Tornike Kachkachishvili, TBC Bank's Business Mobilbank Group Digital Service Expert) won their own, paid business-making “maternity leave.” bilisi City Court has ordered Young entrepreneur Giorgi Sheshaberidze, who GEL 10,000 bail from Ilia owns a nationally successful homemade lollipop Jishkariani, MP of the Tbi- business in Gori, introduced a new idea at the lisi City Assembly and an Entrepreneur Magazine event: Photo Candy. Giorgi offi cial of the ruling Geor- Tgian Dream party, who was accused of knew the event was dedicated to Anna Wintour and so put her photo on his lollipops to show off his new sexual harassment and physical abuse idea. The talented young entrepreneur started by his assistant Tamta Todadze. making and selling lollipops at the age of 11, using his The decision was announced by Judge brand ‘Dora’ to protest the Russian occupation by Arsen Kalatozishvili at Friday's trial held featuring the inscription "Stop Russia" on his candy. at New Hospital, where the MP is now being treated due to heart-related problems. Follow the Entrepreneur Georgia Instagram page to get the latest updates from The motion for bail was fi led by the the victim and communicating with her October 8 with sexual and physical abuse Georgian Entrepreneurs. For doing business with Georgian Entrepreneurs, write us on prosecution. until the fi nal court decision. of the female employee by the Georgian [email protected] He was forbidden from approaching Jishkariani was offi cially charged on Chief Prosecutor’s Offi ce.

GEORGIA TODAY 4 BUSINESS OCTOBER 15 - 17, 2019 Interview with Levan Kobiashvili, President of Bocuse d’Or Georgia

At the next stage, the continental com- TRANSLATED BY KETEVAN petition, experienced and leading coun- KVARATSKHELIYA tries are to be introduced as participants. That is why at the fi rst stage our expec- tations and aspirations are directed to n November 2-3, 2019, the maximally obtain practice and experi- 11th pavilion of the Expo ence. I believe that with time and prac- Georgia Convention tice, Georgia will be able to become one Center is to host the of the major rivals of any country. National Audition of the Taking into account the fact that we largestO and prestigious gastronomic are participating in this kind of contest championship Bocuse d’Or for the fi rst for the fi rst time, we need fi nancial assis- time. We sat down with Levan Kobiahs- tance in order to invite trainers to pre- vili, President of Bocuse d’Or Georgia, pare our participants and teach them to fi nd out more about the event. various techniques. Our chefs undoubt- edly have the skills to creatively prepare WHY IS BOCUSE D’OR specialties, they just need more training, IMPORTANT FOR GEORGIA’S and a tutor is pivotal to achieving this. GASTRONOMIC INDUSTRY AND THE COUNTRY IN GENERAL? WHAT WILL THE AUDIENCE Bocuse d’Or is one of the world’s most SEE AT THE NATIONAL successful gastronomic championships, AUDITION OF BOCUSE D’OR contributing to the professional develop- ON NOVEMBER 2-3? ment of youngsters. This is a large-scale Anyone can attend the audition. Bocuse platform for chefs, enabling them to work d’Or is the most prominent gastronomic on sophisticating techniques and to prac- engagement in this project is certainly nomic and culinary history, they invited held to reveal eight participants who will championship worldwide. Thus, the tice in and master the fi eld. Bocuse d’Or the achievement of the Horeca business us into their family and accepted us with compete on November 2-3 and fi ght for events related to it are a real show for benefi ts the country by developing the development and consulting agency, great honor. the participation in the continental semi- audiences. In addition, attendance means gastronomic fi eld and tourism sector. Gastronaut. When we took part in the fi nal. The time for the preparation of a supporting the participants. Eight teams, This type of large-scale project has not world-renowned exhibition Sihra, within WHAT ARE THE MAJOR course, its appearance and creativity, are each boasting three members, will com- been held in Georgia before. the scope of which the fi nale of Bocuse CRITERIA, ACCORDING those major characteristics through pete for two days. We will reveal the d’Or is to be launched, almost no one TO WHICH THE EIGHT which we select the participants. winners of the 1st, 2nd and 3rd places, HOW DID GEORGIA GET TO knew about Georgia and we had to intro- PARTICIPANTS ARE TO who will later travel to the European PARTICIPATE IN BOCUSE D’OR? duce our traditions and our country. BE SELECTED AT THE WILL GEORGIA SUCCESSFULLY continental semi-fi nal. We were waiting two years to become When they learned that Georgia is the CHAMPIONSHIP? COMPETE AT THE BOCUSE D’OR To attend the National Audition of Bocuse a member of this big family, though the ‘cradle’ of wine with an ancient gastro- On October 9, a closed competition was INTERNATIONAL CONTEST? d’Or you can purchase tickets online. Are Georgian Kindergartens Safe? Aid, as well as representatives of Geor- BY LORRAINE VANEY gian media and diplomatic staff. Ideally, the carefully-developed standards will be introduced as new regulations by the n 2016, the Georgian government end of the year. voted in the fi rst law related to Ahead of the conference, GEORGIA the regulations of kindergartens, TODAY got access to an exclusive inter- and has since been committed to view with Giorgi Meskhidze from Civi- developing new standards in terms tas Georgia, interviewed by Weronika Iof programs, health and hygiene, child Rzezutka, former media offi cer at the development, pedagogy and infrastruc- Polish Center of International Aid. ture. While the fi rst four standards are now elaborated, the question of safe HOW DID YOU SELECT infrastructure has been rather overlooked, THE KINDERGARTENS especially in terms of preparedness for FOR THIS PROJECT? MOST natural hazards such as landslides, fl oods OF THEM ARE IN SMALL and fi res. VILLAGES IN GEORGIA. The need to create and comply with The National Environment Agency gave safety standards is a pressing matter, us a list of dangerous municipalities from stressed by UNICEF and by government the point of view of different natural statements in the aftermath of natural disasters. Fire can happen everywhere, hazards; but no substantial efforts have but fl ood, avalanches and earthquakes so far been made in this direction. are more peculiar to the rural-mountain- To fi ll this gap, Civitas Georgia, together ous regions. But truly, we had quite a with the Georgian National Environ- diverse sample; Kazbegi is a very moun- Image source: GT Kindergartens Adam Rostkowski mental Agency and the Polish Center tainous municipality with seven kinder- not under their control. In , fi re- DEVELOP NEW STANDARDS still a lot to be done. People and infra- for International Aid, since 2018 have gardens, Gardabani is a rather big munic- men inspect kindergartens themselves, FOR INFRASTRUCTURE, structure are more ready than before, reviewed the safety of 128 Georgian kin- ipality with more than 40 kindergardens, but here in Georgia, only gas and elec- WHICH YOU HOPE WILL BE but hopefully, no natural disaster will dergartens in Dusheti, Tianeti, Kazbegi, we have three municipalities in moun- tricity people are coming. So that’s why INTEGRATED INTO THE 2016 happen anyway. Now the next challenge Gardabani, Mtskheta, Keda, Khulo and tainous Ajara, from which we have the we took over, together with our Polish LAW AS NEW REGULATIONS. is to convince the government to adopt Shuakhevi. Altogether, these kindergar- biggest number of ecological migrants partners. HOW WILL YOU PROCEED? the recommendations and to discuss tens serve 7517 children. in Georgia. When we saw that there were no detailed what needs to be done and who will be The team was composed of Polish and THE PROJECT INCLUDES standards on the question of infrastruc- in charge. Georgian experts on safety issues and SHOULDN’T IT BE THE TRAININGS FOR ture in the 2016 law, we realized we would risk assessment and of local engineers, WORK OF MINISTRIES AND KINDERGARTEN STAFF, have to lobby the authorities to do more. BESIDES SAFETY, WHAT STILL geologists and hydrologists. In 2019, they MUNICIPALITIES TO DEVELOP MUNICIPALITIES AND OTHER It was also an opportunity to cooperate NEEDS TO BE IMPROVED IN developed recommendations for techni- SAFETY STANDARDS FOR LOCAL AND NATIONAL ACTORS. with our Polish partners to bring Euro- PRESCHOOL EDUCATION? cal and organizational solutions for kin- KINDERGARTENS? WHY DIDN'T YOU SIMPLY pean expertise into this project. We estab- Recently, the government passed new dergartens and worked to improve the Indeed, but this aspect of the quality FOCUS ON RENOVATING lished a working group composed of legislation requesting teachers to be level of knowledge and competence of improvement of kindergartens was nev- THE KINDERGARTEN? representatives of ministry, municipali- prepared to provide fi rst medical aid. these issues among kindergarten employ- ertheless neglected in comparison to the You can, of course, build new buildings, ties, preschools and other NGOs active We already received requests from ees and government authorities. other standards, partly because of the but who will maintain them? We need in the fi eld of disaster risk reduction. municipalities to help them train the The fi nal conference presenting the lack of knowledge of the authorities, and people to learn and to understand how Policy-makers were informed and involved teachers. We are also supporting the fi ndings and outcomes of this two-year of their organization. The development to take care of them, what details to look in our activities from the beginning, and establishment of a National Preschool project will be organized in Tbilisi in of safe infrastructure standards is actu- for and what direction to take. After this hopefully, the recommendations will be Association in Georgia, uniting now 42 November 2019. It will gather repre- ally in the hands of the Ministry of project, we hope municipalities will have adopted by the end of the year. municipalities, meaning over 700 kin- sentatives of municipalities, of the rel- Economy, so they obviously have limited the whole picture of what is going on in dergartens. The idea is that in one or evant ministries, and of local and inter- experience when it comes to natural the kindergartens. It is ultimately about THIS TWO-YEAR PROJECT IS two years, kindergartens will be able to national NGOs that actively support hazards and disasters. At a smaller scale, capacity building, also for teachers and NOW COMING TO AN END. lobby for their interests without the help these changes, including Save the Chil- municipalities have very limited means parents. WHAT ARE YOUR IMPRESSIONS of Civitas. There is still a lot to do in this dren, Bridge, UNICEF and representa- to properly assess and respond to poten- OF THE WORK DONE? regard, so we continue to work closely tives of the Polish Center of International tial safety risks since the fi re service is YOU ALSO WORKED TO We have met our objectives but there’s with them to improve their capacity. GEORGIA TODAY OCTOBER 15 - 17, 2019 BUSINESS 5 Georgian Salaries Increased by GEL 24 Annually in the Last 5 Years

included the employee whose salary is condition- BY TEA MARIAMIDZE ally GEL 1600 and the employee whose salary is GEL 300. Because of this, some economists believe that the average wage cannot provide an accurate n the last fi ve years, the average monthly and complete picture of the economic and social nominal salary in Georgia has been increas- situation of the country. ing by an average of 62.6 GEL ($21.08) annu- These economic analysts further claim that for Image source: sentinelassam.com ally, and, given the overall level of infl ation, a more detailed characterization of the labor mar- most highly paid people are raised, this does not (about $152.55) more than women each month in the real wage has grown by an average of ket, it is necessary to use statistical data such as affect the median salary, though it increases the Q1 of 2019. Female workers earned an average sal- I24.6 GEL ($8.28). Mode, Median and Mean. The mode is the most mean salary. ary of 876.1 GEL (+58 GEL) per month, while male To note, the average monthly salary in Georgia frequently occurring value in a set of values and is Geostat receives salary data not from the Revenue workers earned 1,294.1 GEL (+22.4 GEL). was 1068.3 GEL ($359.98/€327.99) in 2018, which is interesting as it can be used for any type of data, Service of the Ministry of Finance (which records As of 2018, the Top 10 European countries with a 6.9% increase compared to the prior year, accord- not just numbers. The ‘mean’ or ‘arithmetic mean’ the income of citizens), but from an independent the highest salaries (net salary, after tax) are: ing to the latest data from the National Statistics is the most commonly used form of average. In survey conducted by Geostat, which collects data 1. Denmark - €3270; Offi ce of Georgia (Geostat). order to calculate the mean average, a set of related from about 15,000 businesses and organizations in 2. Luxembourg - €3159; The agency reports that in 2018, the average sal- numbers (or data set) is required. At least two Georgia, including large corporations, government 3. Sweden - €2570; ary of women was 822.6 GEL ($277.18), while men numbers are needed in order to calculate the mean. agencies, insurance companies, banks and credit 4. Finland - €2509; had an average salary of 1,280.7 GEL ($431.55). The numbers need to be linked or related to each unions. 5. Ireland - €2479; Last year, the average salary of employees in the other in some way to have any meaningful result. Regarding 2019, Geostat data reads that the aver- 6. Austria - €2324; public sector was 892.1 GEL ($300.6), while in the To determine the Median, it is necessary to arrange age monthly salary increased by 33.5 GEL (about 7. Germany - €2270 non-public sector it was 1164 GEL ($392.22). the numbers in order and fi nd the middle number. $12.23) year-on-year and reached 1,092.7 GEL (about 8. France - €2225 We took a look at the average annual salary over The economists also say that in Georgia, the arti- $398.80) in the fi rst quarter of the year. 9. Netherlands - €2155 the last fi ve years: fi cial raising of the price of services because the In the same period, men earned almost 418 GEL 10. Great Britain - €1990 2014 – GEL 818 ($275.41) tariffs are higher in developed countries of Europe, 2015 - GEL 900.4 ($303.02) it the wrong approach. In countries where service 2016 - GEL 940 ($316.49) prices are high, there are high quality services and 2017 - GEL 999 ($336.35) a high standard of living. The population has a high 2018 - GEL1068.3 ($359.98) purchasing power and can afford this expensive There is a lot of dissatisfaction in society about service, unlike in Georgia, where amid the artifi cial the average salary and the methodology for its cal- increase of service prices, lower incomes and a culation, with the salaries of most hired workers lower standard of living, the population is less able coming in at well below the average. The method to afford expensive services. for calculating the average wage is as follows: The Geostat uses the arithmetic mean to calculate sum of the salaries of all hired workers is divided average monthly salaries, although the median by the number of all hired employees and the aver- method is better when the data is signifi cantly dif- age salary is obtained. Obviously, here will be ferent. The issue is that if only the salaries of the Georgia’s Sovereign Credit Rating Raised to BB with Stable Outlook by Standard & Poor's

Continued from page 1 "If we look at the dynamics of the ratings in the region, we will see that there is no such signifi cant “The domestic political landscape in Georgia has improvement from other countries as Georgia also seen heightened volatility recently with sev- received," Turnava said. eral public protests in 2019 and 2018. We consider The Minister noted that Georgia's recognition that political uncertainty will likely stay elevated and ratings were improved not only by Standard in the run-up to the parliamentary elections in & Poor’s, but also by two other leading rating agen- 2020, but we do not expect any detrimental shifts cies, among them Moody's and Fitch, which sig- to economic policy-making and anticipate a con- nifi cantly improved the country's rating recently. tinued broad focus on reforms and attracting for- “What this rating gives us is increased recogni- eign investment,” the assessment reads. tion and confi dence from our investors. Both our Standard&Poor’s report noted risks from regional local investors and international ones are positive geopolitical developments, highlighting that the and will invest more boldly in Georgia," the Min- status of breakaway and ister said. will likely remain a source of dispute between Georgia’s Finance Minister, Ivane Matchavariani, Georgia and Russia. also commented on the issue, saying that Georgia “Russia has continued to build stronger ties with has been particularly resilient to external and the two territories, as highlighted by the recent regional shocks over the last two years. partial integration of the South Ossetian military “Due to the crisis in the region in recent years, into the Russian army, the establishment of a cus- the ratings tend to decline and Georgia is the only toms post in Abkhazia, and regular visits to the country that has been able to move up in credit territories by senior Russian government offi cials. ratings during this diffi cult period,” he noted. However, we don't expect a material escalation,” The Minister added that in the period 2019-2022, they added. Georgia will have the highest economic growth Natia Turnava, Minister of Economy and Sus- compared to its regional neighbors. tainable Development, says the improvement of "The agency welcomes the reforms we are imple- Georgia’s rating is the result of the successful menting in our country... It indicates that despite reforms of the government, which sees Georgia's the recent developments related to tourism prob- economy developing rapidly and steadily across lems this summer, Georgia's economy is quite sta- the region. ble," Matchavariani stated. GEORGIA TODAY 6 BUSINESS OCTOBER 15 - 17, 2019 York Towers Developing a Large-scale Green Residential Complex in Tabakhmela you can reach the center of Tbilisi, AND SERVICES OFFERED right rules for new districts of Tbilisi, Freedom Square and Galleria Mall, from BY YORK TOWERS? such as Tabakhmela, Lisi and so on. our Green Town in Tabakhmela in We offer our customers villas, fl ats, pri- under twenty minutes. It’s not a long vate houses, commercial spaces and WHAT WOULD YOU time, meaning there’s no need to live lending. We operate in the market, which SAY ABOUT YOUR in the city, but in a location which is means that we have high-quality prod- COMPANY’S INVOLVEMENT only 17 minutes away. The main advan- ucts and services. IN CORPORATE SOCIAL tage of York Town is that it offers eve- Most importantly, we offer new loca- RESPONSIBILITY PROJECTS? rything in one space, so you don’t have tions to live. But these new locations are Involvement in CSR projects is yet to go to the city center for any service not poor in facilities or services area: on another priority of our company. – you already have everything that you the contrary, people will live there in We support economic and tourism need around you! There will be famous maximum comfort and will have every- development in Georgia and are ready brand shops, restaurants, a movie theater, thing they need. For example, in to use our resources to get love to the night club, children’s entertainment Tabakhmela we will even have a school Georgian people and country from for- center and much more included in the and kindergarten (which is direct invest- eigner tourists. complex. So, why you should even care ment for creating an educated and wise In June 2019, when the now-notorious to go to the city center? generation), a shopping center, com- Russian travel embargo was imposed, In Tabakhmela, we fully ensure services mercial and service areas, park, play- York Towers joined the campaign 'Visit such as renovation, cleaning, security, grounds and a swimming pool for healthy Georgia' aimed at encouraging tourists maintenance and technical support and lifestyles: everything for their happiness. to travel to the country. provide a building in which the whole Our team was at Tbilisi International family can feel happy. The residents of WHEN WILL THE Airport. We gave fl owers to tourists and our new complex will be one hundred CONSTRUCTION OF GREEN wished them a good time in Georgia. times happier than people who live in TOWN IN TABAKHMELA Our company often creates promo- the central districts of Tbilisi. That is BE COMPLETED? tional videos depicting the unforget- our strategy: to focus more on healthy According to our obligations, it is set for table beauty and hospitality of Georgia, and green environments and not on the three years, but our target is to fi nish the to attract even more visitors to the EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW WHY DID YOU CHOSE GEORGIA polluted and noisy city center. whole project on June 30, 2021, six months country. We have foreign non-profi t BY ANA DUMBADZE FOR YOUR ACTIVITIES AND WHAT WOULD YOU SAY early. And I’m sure that we will be able websites, where we publish positive ABOUT THE BUSINESS AND WHICH SEGMENT OF SOCIETY to do so. We are to announce new pro- and pleasant news about the country, INVESTMENT ENVIRONMENT BENEFITS MOST FROM jects soon as well, with the same concept to let more people know about the good nvironment pollution is one IN THE COUNTRY? YOUR SERVICES? WHAT as we have in Tabakhmela. developments there and get inspired of the biggest problems in the This country offers a great opportunity WOULD YOU SAY ABOUT to start making investments, or just world, and in Georgia it is for investors who are really thinking CUSTOMER DEMAND? WHAT ARE THE MOST visit and enjoy it. sadly no different. As such, it about growing their business and mak- Customer demand is quite high. And the SUCCESSFUL PROJECTS In addition, we have yet another eco- is extremely important to ing a profi table investment. Georgia has customers here in Georgia always need a AND STEPS IMPLEMENTED friendly activity planned for the future: useE the services of companies which a safe and open market which is ready lot. However, they are suffering, to be hon- BY THE COMPANY IN our team intends to plant trees in Tbilisi, spare no effort to care about ecology to import all good ideas for construction est, from cheap and low-quality construc- GEORGIA SO FAR? a city which defi nitely lacks fresh air and, at the same time, provide maximum and development – it has great architects, tion service. Really. And we also suffer. We have an impressive project in Dig- nowadays. As for the location, let it be comfort for their customers. great regulations and safety. Bank regu- We are trying to target the medium seg- homi, in front of the Goodwill hyper- a pleasant surprise. We’ll release news These days, there are few construction lations and transferring amounts are also ment of the society and provide them with market, which is a great location. I am about it soon. companies that care for maintaining the worth mentioning. So, everything is affordable prices. Why should a person also very confi dent about the Tabakhmela conditions created by nature, while also pushing you to create your own business who needs to live in a compound area have project, and I’m sure that it will encour- IS THERE ANYTHING YOU offering an international experience such here. We have been monitoring Georgia to pay, for example, $1500 per square meters age many investors and construction WOULD LIKE TO EMPHASIZE? as York Towers does. since 2011 to launch our business. We to benefi t from various facilities? No, you companies to develop the surrounding We hope and wish the Georgian gov- One of the main priorities of the York started in 2014, thinking that it would be don’t have to do this. You will pay only areas and before or within 10 years we ernment will be more supportive to Towers Company is to conserve a clean a big mistake to wait more, and as it $600-650 per square meter and you will will see a completely different Tbilisi in local and foreign investors. We need environment and fresh air, providing an turned out, we were right. enjoy great facilities. Why? Because we Tabakhmela with new regulations and some additional support. Georgia has excellent opportunity to build your are creating a new district. So, our plan is planning. It will be a great city. a great law and regulations, but we need family's healthy future today. SO, IT WAS THE RIGHT that everyone who can afford to purchase It should also be mentioned that if the these regulations to be implemented in York Towers is a leading international DECISION TO START OPERATING apartments in the outskirts of Tbilisi will government had had the right treatment a practical manner so as to enjoy them. Real Estate Developer with multiple IN GEORGIA DUE TO ITS SAFE also be able to purchase them in our com- towards Dighomi, we would now have I, as an investor, need to enjoy it all – investments in Europe and the Middle BUSINESS ENVIRONMENT? plex and benefi t from all the facilities which a great district there. However, due to the law, the regulations, the rights... Any East and it continues expanding its pro- Yes, and it has been supporting us to I have already mentioned. the lack of attention and guidance from investor needs it. We need to be sup- jects to cover all real estate activities upgrade our strategy for a long time. For the government, we see that the overall ported by the government to go through worldwide. example, we started with a brokerage WHICH ARE THE MOST condition of this area is not satisfactory. the process quickly and implement our The Company has successfully fi nished fi rm here, then upgraded our strategy to INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS I hope the government will instill the activities more effectively. many projects in Europe and the Middle start a new business and import new East and since 2017 has been operating projects and ideas from Europe. So, when in the Georgian market too. we started implementing, for example, Right now, the highly qualifi ed and the idea of the complex in Tabakhmela, experienced team of York Towers is to include all facilities and services nec- developing one of the biggest and green- essary for our customers. And it will not est projects in the country, York Town, only be Tabakhmela: we plan to imple- an eco-friendly residential complex in ment many innovative ideas and con- Tabakhmela, near Tbilisi’s Mtatsminda struct other complexes here. Park, surrounded with breathtaking mountains and abundant greenery, includ- WHICH PRODUCTS DOES ing up to 256 cozy apartments and 100 THE COMPANY OFFER TO luxurious villas. CUSTOMERS? IN WHICH This is the largest urban community DISTRICTS OF TBILISI CAN WE compound in Georgia and presents a FIND BUILDINGS CONSTRUCTED luxurious and modernized lifestyle, BY YORK TOWERS? serenity and beauty. The project extends In Georgia, York Towers has successfully over an area of 100,000 square meters fi nished and delivered many projects, in Tabakhmela, with construction exceed- such as Dighomi Mall, multifunctional ing a $100 million investment. Exactly innovative space Diplomatic Dighomi, half of the whole area, 50,000 sq.m, will and Tower in Temka the dis- be dedicated to green spaces and rec- trict. reation zones. I don’t like to focus on the city center. GEORGIA TODAY spoke to Mr. Amr It’s overloaded with transport, noisy and Alabwaz, General Director of York Tow- is unclean. With the old regulations, ers, to fi nd out more about the company’s many mistakes were made in planning activities and future plans in Georgia, the city center. We will defi nitely change one of the most distinguished projects this situation 100%. being implemented by the company, and We are trying to bring people out of his impressions about the local business the city center to the surroundings and and investment environment from a suburban areas of Tbilisi, which is a foreign businessman’s perspective. very small city, by the way. For example, GEORGIA TODAY OCTOBER 15 - 17, 2019 BUSINESS 7 Kartuli Hotel: Changing the Hospitality Game in Batumi

Photo by @iamhumann They also integrated the typical Batumian metallic BY LORRAINE VANEY roofs, used to get rid of the rain, within wood frames to create the bar and the lobby desk, nicely merg- ing local and modern design. ow can a new hotel, making zero The hotel’s visual identity defi nitely stands out advertisements, be almost fully from its competitors, but creating an original place booked at the end of the tourist sea- came with several obstacles. Because most of the son in Batumi? Bringing tourists and apart-hotels or resorts proposed the same type of locals together in an arty way seems design and tastes for years, it was complicated Hto be the winning formula, and a game-changer in fi nding different, minimalistic and modern furni- the ultra-competitive Batumian market. ture that matched the artistic concept of the hotel. With Kartuli Hotel, the young directors, Sergei The lack of modern retail shops for the hospitality and Liya placed the focus on art and cultural industry is constraining the creation of alternative exchanges rather than on standardized accommo- venues for massive international hotel companies. dation. It came with many challenges, but by stay- Sergei and Liya had to import many pieces from ing true to their vision, they hope foreigners and abroad and designed the rest themselves. Georgian visitors can rediscover Batumi and its The library is another special trait of Kartuli creative potential. Hotel, proposing an eclectic collection of vinyl and The hotel opened just a month ago and has now art books in different languages. It refl ects the 23 rooms starting from 80 GEL, which is signifi - diversity of Georgian past and present artistic cantly lower than most of the hotels here, for the movements as much as the directors’ love for their same standards. The second fl oor and the restau- host country; in the future, the hotel will organize rant will be ready for the next summer season, and movie screenings and talks. Even the logo of the the directors have many upcoming events and hotel puts the emphasis on “ART” in kARTuli and side-projects for their hotel and for their host city. the name itself, on the “georgianess” of the place, Last Saturday, at their one-month birthday party, as Kartuli means Georgian. Hotel Kartuli was full of young Batumian and for- The popularity of the hotel and of the directors eign visitors, a mix that is pretty unusual for the themselves among local creative minds promises mainstream hospitality sector here. to revive the Batumian cultural scene, which is Commenting on this low-key success, Sergei told sometimes overshadowed by the hotel industry GEORGIA TODAY, “Hotels here offer high-quality and chaotic urban development. As an example, designs and services, but ignore local tastes or the fi rst art center of Batumi, opened by Guela experience, which is damaging to the reputation Tsouladze in 2012, was replaced in 2016 by the of Batumi itself. And we believe that Batumi deserves nightclub Botanico, a project of Radisson Blu. more. I love Batumi, but it can be a confusing city But as locality and authenticity are the two driv- when you fi rst arrive. You need the right environ- ing trends of the hospitality industry at the moment, ment to appreciate it and that’s what we are creat- there are big chances that more projects like Hotel ing here, through art and human connections.” Kartuli will develop in the near future and thus The location of the hotel is a great way to start transform the touristic potential of Batumi. the conversation: since it is in the most recently “I hope Kartuli Hotel will inspire people to do built district, guests see the new buildings, the things differently and try new things; it is possible, soviet ones, the sea-side park and its sculptures, despite the challenges on the way.” the boulevard, the sea and the mountains at the Offering new venues and concepts is also the best same time from the 36th fl oor of the Beach Tower. way to attract new visitors to the city; the recent Inside, rooms are full of details and references to Russian ban on fl ights has shown the importance Georgian culture, in a subtle and modern way. Using of a diversifi ed touristic economy, which is espe- Georgian , for instance, the managers cially true for Batumi. It will of course take years, created neon lights with words related to Batumi; and more creative entrepreneurs, to change the freedom/, air/haeri, sea and sun/zghva face of the city, but the success of Kartuli Hotel is da mze, nature/buneba, rain/tsvima, love/siqvaruli. a promising start. GEORGIA TODAY 8 BUSINESS OCTOBER 15 - 17, 2019 Conference and Exhibition Halls at the Museum of Fine Arts & the Art House

BY KETEVAN KVARATSKHELIYA

rt House – The Place to Meet, which is an extension of the Georgian Museum of Fine Arts, is a multifunc- tional complex in the heart Aof the Tbilisi, integrating cafés, restaurant, fi t club and conference hall in the same area. The conference hall of Art House, dis- tinguished for its cozy environment is set to be a great discovery for business cli- ents. It makes a perfect venue for offi cial meetings, as well as semi-formal events. A mouthwatering buffet with a selection of fi ne food can also be provided on site. The exhibition hall is also ready to serve for corporate and exclusive events, award ceremonies and exhibitions. The two venues of the Art House have already successfully hosted events of important establishments, including embassies and international organizations. The venue also hosted Mercedes Benz Fashion Week twice. Georgian Museum of Fine Arts & Art House even provides an opportunity to hold private museum tours for corpora- tions seeking to run teambuilding activ- ities, while gourmands can benefi t from the gastronomic tour which begins in the museum and closes with tasting of fi ne wines in the Kharcho restaurant.

#foryourfi rsttimeingeorgia Address: L. Gudiashvili St. 18 Sh. Rustaveli St. 7 Tel: 544 44 45 44 Art House - The Place to Meet @arthouse_georgia

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[email protected] +995 555 659 933 GEORGIA TODAY OCTOBER 15 - 17, 2019 BUSINESS 9 Nakra - Another Village to Discover

the tower. This tower is distinguished .” by the fact that women plastered it. In Nakra, there is also a great chance According to tradition, towers were to to drink Dutsi Vodka. The visual of the be built by men, but there were two drink shows its power. This is part of any journey in Svaneti which locals and zone. "In the upper villages, the nature tourists both enjoy. BY SALOME CHIKVILADZE, is so delightful that you really want to Natela Tsindeliani, owner of another TRANSLATED BY ANA DUMBADZE fl y," said 79-year-old Shamili Gvamliani, family-run hotel, recalls that tourists from recommending the 7 km road leading to Scotland and Singapore came to Nakra alpine zone for those wanting a real taste and one American tourist liked the place robably everyone agrees that of that beauty. so much that he was happy to help har- Svaneti is not only , The road is of medium diffi culty and, rowing. Shamil Gvamliani, who advised and towers. GEOR- like Svaneti as a whole, is full of legends. us to visit the alpine zone, says there were GIA TODAY readers already If you go with a local tour guide, hiking many interesting things to do in this area, know one of the prominent will be even more interesting. The higher but now it is all but abandoned. The locals villagesP of Zemo Svaneti, Chuberi. In you go, the more you hear about the set- in Nakra want the old climbers' schools this article we will introduce you to tlements, churches and people. To prove to be built again, because the valley really Nakra, which according to a legend was the bravery of , the guide told us has the potential for alpinism and the a praised place by Caesar. that when the enemy attacked, if Svans best athletes used to train there. were out of bullets, they used chains to NAKRA defend themselves. This valley was dam- BONUS: CONFUCIUS The Nakra administrative area is located aged three times by enemies, as it was AND OTHER INTERESTING in Nakra Valley and includes 11 villages. easy to attack from the Basa Pass. TRADITIONS If you come across this narrow road for The route to the alpine zone passes Svaneti is full of surprises. In a place the fi rst time, you will probably think through the woods. If you’re not up for where you’d think there are no humans, that there is no village between the the walk, locals will offer car and horse- you may come across a village, see a mountains. However, local residents riding tours. You will probably see wild their feet would stretch down to the val- famous women in this area who had a mountain that is so warm that the snow chose this place because it is the only horses in the alpine zone too. This is a ley. If you are lucky with the weather, special hand, so they made an exception never settles on its top, hear a language fl at area in the valley. According to the place fully owned by animals and birds. you will see the beauty of the Caucasus- in the plastering work. As a matter of you will never hear elsewhere, and see locals, the name Nakra comes from the If you see another person, it will likely Mount Elbrus. fact, only ruins of other towers are left, how the Svans recall the thoughts of a word "Nak" which means a fl at area in be a seasonal herdsman. Yellow fl owers give a real beauty to yet the tower plastered by female crafts- Chinese philosopher. That is what hap- the . It lies between three From the point you can reach by car, the alpine zone. Amidst the mountain men still overlooks the valley. pened when we talked to Shamil Gvam- mountains: Shdavleri, Kvarmashi and the whole valley is revealed. Nakra Alpine snow and the harshness, these small, Another outstanding building in Nakra liani about Svan customs and traditions. Tsalgmali. People started settling here Zone is 2500-2800 meters above sea level. tender fl owers tell us that the winter is Valley, as the Svans say, is the Church of According to him, the Svan tradition "set about 150 years ago. Currently, the Nen- There, you will fi nd the Caucasus Ridge, coming. As we were told, this fl ower God. Locals told us that this is the only in place" is based on Confucius’ motives. skra HPP project company-JSC Nenskra Nakra Valley, forest and beautiful nature. grows when the cold starts and disap- church built in Svaneti in the name of The main formula of this rule is that you Hydro, is running an information cam- You’ll have to continue your journey on pears before the frosts, to emerge again God and tourists are advised to see this should not do something to others that paign within the scope of social respon- foot from this point. Be sure to taste the the following year. place before leaving. you wouldn’t want done to you. sibility in order to let more people know wild berries: the higher you go, the more After visiting the alpine zone, as you "This is a real human life and we have about these places. delicious they become. THE LONE SVAN TOWER return to the village, you will fi nd Nino a Svan rule: two or four men will sit Every house there has a small yard with Chuberi is also worth visiting, as, when Everyone thinks of Mestia and Ushguli Tsindeliani’s guest house. According to down and review the case. These men fl owers and fruit trees, while corn fi elds visiting the alpine zone, it rained twice. when they hear about towers in Svaneti, the host, the number of tourists increases are chosen villagers. The name of this and agricultural land is nearby. In the The road is not diffi cult and without however, Nakra Valley also has one: the every year, but many people still do not tradition is "Set in place." If I were you, center of the village there is a school, a hiking equipment you can cover the dis- Richgviani Family Tower, which dates know about the area’s sights. I would forgive you or I would do it garden and a boardroom. tance, however, be sure to bring raincoats, back to the 10th century. This is the only "This is a most beautiful place, our another way," he said. About 400 people live in Nakra and strong shoes and warm clothes. When tower in Nakra and you should defi nitely nature, the mountains. Tourists will meet This tradition is still used in Svaneti there are eight family-run hotels. looking at the mountains, we were told visit it. The Dadeshkeliani and Richgvi- local people, who are hospitable, warm, to solve problems - confl icts between another legend about giants. The legend family had a dispute over this tower. attentive and trustworthy. And, of course, families and other important issues. THE ALPINE ZONE says that giants lived in Nakra and when The Dadeshkelianis were helped by visitors should taste delicious traditional Natela Tsindeliani recalls another living The major beauty of Nakra is its alpine they sat on the tops of the mountains, Kaldani family and now the former owns dishes: Kubdari, Chvishtari and Millet tradition from old times, when people were fi re-worshippers. This tradition is named as "Lamproba" in Svaneti which takes place on 28th of February. On this day, the village divides into brotherhoods with several families. The men bring big branches of Alnus, people gather in the village center, they light a big bonfi re and say spells. In the evening a host fam- ily invites the whole brotherhood. When you are in Svaneti, you soon realize that you are a part of these leg- ends, these traditions. Watching the high, harsh mountains, empty, wide fi elds and beautiful wildlife makes you feel very small and very free. The key is to breathe in the fresh air, to take your time to watch the boundless greenery and then tell everyone what it is like to travel in places which many people don't know about.

Source: On.ge GEORGIA TODAY 10 BUSINESS OCTOBER 15 - 17, 2019 Georgian International Arbitration Center, EU & UNDP Hold 6th Annual Tbilisi Arbitration Days

ver one hundred judges, ment and intensive business develop- and Industry. arbitration practitioners, ment create solid grounds for establish- The agenda for this year’s Tbilisi Arbi- public offi cials and busi- ing Georgia as a regional center for tration Days focused on the role of inde- ness representatives from international arbitration.” pendent arbitration in economic devel- the European Union, Cen- “I fi nd it important to organize such opment. tralO Asia and Georgia gathered in Tbilisi conferences in Tbilisi on a regular basis On 9 October, conference participants last week for the opening of a three-day to raise awareness in the business sector discussed the New York Convention conference: Tbilisi Arbitration Days 2019. of the opportunities that arbitration of 1958 on the ‘Recognition and Enforce- This year, this largest of arbitration stands to offer in terms of time and cost ment of Foreign Arbitration.’ Opened forums in the region focused on the lat- effi ciency,” noted EU Ambassador Carl by the acting Chairperson of the est international trends in resolving Hartzell. “It remains the objective of the Supreme Court of Georgia, Mzia Todua, commercial disputes, the impact of arbi- European Union to encourage a more the workshop was organized by the tration on national economies and the frequent use of this instrument to settle Supreme Court of Georgia, GIAC and prospects for cooperation between coun- business-to-business disputes here in the international law fi rm Shearman tries. Georgia.” & Sterling. As in previous years, Tbilisi Arbitra- “Access to justice is a critical precon- On 10 October, the conference hosted tion Days was organized by the Georgian dition for economic growth that benefi ts several discussions about the regional International Arbitration Center (GIAC) all members of society,” said UNDP Head importance of independent arbitration with support from the European Union Louisa Vinton. “UNDP is assisting Geor- and the views of business communities (EU) and the United Nations Develop- gia in developing Alternative Dispute on dispute resolution. ment Program (UNDP). Resolution to give citizens and businesses On 11 October, the sixth annual Tbilisi “Georgia has made huge progress in an opportunity to settle disputes outside Arbitration Days concluded with a work- promoting Alternative Dispute Resolu- of the courtroom, saving both time and shop for young practitioners, organized tion, including mediation and arbitra- money.” by the GIAC, the International Chamber tion,” Vice Prime Minister and Minister The addressees at the conference also of Commerce Youth Arbitration Forum of Justice Thea Tsulukiani said at the included George Pertaia, President of (ICC YAF, France) and the International opening. “The enabling legal environ- the Georgian Chamber of Commerce Center for Dispute Resolution (ICDR). Georgian Company Prime Concrete to Build New Pace Terminal Project in Co-fi nanced by OPIC

For a Georgian company to build such Georgian company under an EPC con- an important terminal is a unique oppor- tract takes full responsibility for the tunity. Prime Concrete managed to suc- construction of such a complex and cessfully qualify for the tender in a highly large-scale project. We use local capa- competitive process with dozens of bilities, bring our decades-long experi- international contractors. Its competi- ence and expertise, hire local workers, tive advantages lay in its distinctive and use local construction materials, means and capabilities, its experience which is benefi cial for local communi- and know-how, and its truly local pres- ties and the entire country. We will make ence. Prime Concrete also partnered sure with our partners from Pace Group, with the Dutch companies Royal Haskon- Royal HaskoningDHV and Vanthek, that ingDHV, which developed the most effi - the new terminal is built in a high-qual- cient design for berth and pier construc- ity, safe and environmentally friendly tion, and Vanthek, a leading international manner, increasing Georgia’s transit piling contractor. capabilities to new high levels.” Prime Concrete is a well-established The new terminal will occupy 25 hec- Georgian construction company that has tares of the New Port Zone in Poti’s for- successfully implemented numerous mer shipyard. The total length of the large-scale projects, acquiring excep- berthing facilities will be 650 meters, tional competence and invaluable exper- with a water depth of 12 m. This will be tise in the fi elds of port, water, road and the fi rst modern facility in Georgia to other civil and industrial infrastructure handle deep-water vessels by 2020. The projects. Its portfolio includes maritime total cargo turnover of the terminal will projects such as the rehabilitation of be 5 million tons. The total project cost berth no. 7 and the construction of an is $93 million, of which $50 million will inland container terminal in Poti; public be allocated by OPIC and the remaining works such as wastewater treatment $43 million by Pace Group as an equity plants in Anaklia, Ureki, Zugdidi and contribution. This is OPIC’s single big- Gardabani; extending Tbilisi’s 2nd metro gest engagement in Georgia. The termi- line (to University Station); and building nal will increase the country’s strategic and rehabilitating several municipal importance as a hub between East and he Georgian construction Overseas Private Investment Corporation Director of OPIC Kenneth Angel, Pace roads in western Georgia (Samegrelo). West and as an integral part of the Belt company Prime Concrete (OPIC). An offi cial ceremony to mark the Terminal’s Director David Nadirashvili Prime Concrete CEO Alexander and Road Initiative. OPIC’s decision to has been commissioned to beginning of construction was held in and the Founder of Prime Concrete Alex- Sokolowsky underlined the importance fi nance the project is also a form of rec- build a new Pace Terminal Poti on October 1, 2019 and was attended ander Sokolowsky. Other high-ranking of the Georgian company winning the ognition from the US and other interna- Project in Poti with a total by the Deputy Prime Minister of Georgia members of the Georgian government tender: “We are extremely glad to engage tional stakeholders of the terminal’s valueT of construction work of $20 million. Maia Tskitishvili, the Minister of Economy and parliament as well as diplomats and in the construction of this strategic facil- signifi cance for Georgia and the wider The project is co-fi nanced by the US of Georgia Natia Turnava, the Managing foreign guests were also present. ity. It is an exceptional occasion when a region.

New Georgian Multifunctional Space "Dariali" Opens in Barcelona

ings, with a Georgian team behind it. BY ANA DUMBADZE The authors of the idea are designers Maka Asatiani, recognized as a symbol of Georgian beauty, and Jaba Diasamidze, ariali is the name of a new who is the Creative Designer of the pro- multifunctional space, ject. opened on October 8 in the “Dariali,” apart from the function of Casa Tomas Roger building selling clothes, items and books, also in Barcelona, one of the includes a gallery and restaurant in its city'sD most beautiful 19th century build- space. GEORGIA TODAY OCTOBER 15 - 17, 2019 CULTURE 11 “Voyage au Caucase”: A Still Untranslated Travel Classic... equally expansive and engaging Voyage from Wit, 1823) the Persians assassinated sored.) Certainly an English-language en Russie (1859)). At Kizlyar, the 57-year- in 1829. He also visited the Chavchavadze publisher should include a map and old author committed his portly self to estate at Tsinandali, in Kakheti, where illustrations. These exist in quantity: some 420 mi/675 km of travel on horse- Shamil, in his famous raid of 1854, kid- there is the excellent work of Dumas’ back or in a primitive, springless horse- napped a Chavchavadze princess and companion Jean-Pierre Moynet, also drawn tarantas or telega to reach Baku her sister-in-law, an Orbeliani princess, that of Henri Blanchard. To them we and then Shemakha – the fabled, earth- and bore them off into wearisome cap- can add the Russian Prince Grigory quake-prone city of dancing girls and silk tivity in a mountain redoubt. Ever-adven- Gagarin, the German Theodor Horschelt weaving. From this southernmost halt, turous despite the winter weather, Dumas (both working in the 1840s-1850s), and he turned west for Tifl is (Tbilisi), and set out from Mtskheta, hoping to follow the Russian Vasili Vereshchagin (work- traveled within and across Georgia to his the Aragvi river (“the route that Pompey ing in the 1860s-1860s). For all these departure port of Poti, on the followed, so tradition says, in his cam- artists – whose works cover an immense coast. His main route and sidetrips from paign against King Mithridates”) up to range of highly evocative Caucasian Shemakha to Poti added another 500 the Darial Gorge, which cuts clean through peoples and scenes – we still await com- mi/800 km or so of jolting travel. the . Sadly, on the Jvari prehensive albums in English. Dumas’ account never fl ags and never crest, just below the dramatic gorge, If hopes are realized and a splendid fails to intrigue the reader. All along his waist-deep snow and a blizzard defeated translation of Voyage au Caucase appears, route he managed to meet not only local the stout Dumas, even though his sleigh there is a further item to be considered. notables, military offi cers fi ghting Shamil was hauled by 20 oxen. In 1838 Dumas completed his engaging and his Muslim guerillas, and leading Dumas retraced his route back to “Russian” novel The Fencing Master – residents – whether Russian or native- Mtskheta before pressing on along snow- and sent a manuscript copy to Tsar born – but also a variety of Cossacks, bound roads to Gori and Kutaisi (with Nicholas I, hoping to earn a signifi cant Tatars, Armenians, Chechens and others. side-trips to Gelati cathedral-monastery honor. Nicholas sent him only an inscribed Dumas hunted, camped, dined in splen- and to a local forest for hare- and par- fi nger-ring (un anneau à chiffre) – and dor or at improvised picnics with equal tridge-shooting), and the snow-clad offered no welcome to the novel. Dumas, enthusiasm. His able young translator Surami pass. Finally, after being rescued disappointed but defi ant, published it in Kalino ensured that he received answers from a wolf-pack, our traveler abandoned France. Copies reached Russia; the cen- to his many questions, however obscure the road and went by boat down the sors banned the book, ensuring demand the topics might be, and his artist friend Rioni river to Poti. There, after local and circulation. Jean-Pierre Moynet made numerous visits and culinary adventures, including In 1858, after Alexander II had suc- sketches of buildings, persons and scen- shooting a pig for dinner, Dumas departed ceeded Nicholas I, Dumas made his visit ery, all of striking quality and detail. the port for , via Batumi to Russia. His every footstep appears to In Tifl is Dumas managed in rapid suc- and Trebizond. have been dogged by secret service cession to attend a performance of Ver- The foregoing glimpse of Dumas’ meet- agents, who reported on his “love affairs, di’s The Lombards, dine with Prince ings, incidents and adventures (restricted the duels he ducked, his run-ins – real able translator-editor, Miss A. E. Murch Dmitri Orbeliani and his family, visit to those occurring in Georgia and included or made up – with the Caucasian high- BY PETER SKINNER (better known for her The Development Viceroy Bariatinski (who a year later in the English edition) may seem to be landers, the horns of wine emptied, his of the Detective Novel, 1958), provided defeated Shamil), meet Count Sollogub rich fare – but they are only a light refresh- writings on the run...” an elegant translation of Dumas’ travel (author of The Tarantas, 1845), who gave ment compared to the banquet the com- With the Soviet regime’s collapse in 1991 or many, a visit to Georgia highlights, adding a valuable Introduc- him Countess Eudoxia Rostopchin’s plete French text of 65 chapters/415 words and the opening of government archives results in an addiction to things tion. Regrettably, the publisher did not personal notes on Pushkin and Lermon- offers. Dumas was a digressive writer the Georgian-French scholar Gaston Georgian – history, arts and add maps or an itinerary, and offered tov (in September 1812 the Countess’ – leaping aside to add colorful details or Bouatchidzé was able to study the agents’ culture, to say nothing of food, pitifully few illustrations. It is indeed father-in-law, Count Feodor Rostopchin, to take his story a stage further or to tie reports and in 2004 publish his L’Anneau wine, song and dance. But what diffi cult to describe the magnitude of governor of Moscow, had set fi re to the it to some related person or event; he à chiffre, les aventures d'Alexandre Dumas doF we know of the experiences and our loss. city following Napoleon’s arrival), and offers us in his original French text a en Russie et au Caucase, recounting key impressions of pioneers who preceded In the truncated English translation, to survive an overheated Georgian Turk- near-encyclopedia of fascinating detail, events in Dumas’ adventures from the us – facing far tougher conditions? What shorn of its introductory matter, we join ish-bath and an over-vigorous massage, historical, folkloric and personal. Russian perspective. travelogues and memoirs did they leave Dumas at Kizlyar, a fortress town inland restoring himself with a hookah. He also The enterprising publisher who under- There’s a lot of the portly Alexandre – and where can we fi nd them? from the Caspian Sea, on the Dagestan- records epic wining and dining bouts. takes the issue of a full English-language Dumas that meets the eye, but when it An internet search will provide a clus- Northern Chechnyan border. (Dumas’ The French ambassador Baron Finot translation of Voyage au Caucase will comes to his books – and books about ter of doughty 19th-century travelers records his journey thence, from Paris took Dumas to meet the widowed Prin- earn the sincere gratitude of any trave- his books – there’s an interesting amount who made their way to Georgia. Add via St Petersburg, Nijni-Novgorod, Vol- cess Nino Chavchavadze, whose husband ler to the Caucasus. (A Russian edition that doesn’t . . . There is urgent need for ‘Persia’ as a search word, and many addi- gograd (Stalingrad) and Astrakhan, in his Alexander Griboedov (author of Woe was issued in 1988, presumably cen- remedy! tional travelers who journeyed through Georgia en route to Persia will come up. Happily, accomplished author-travelers in both groups left much good material, now available in reprint, print-on-demand or digital format. One such work – Voyage au Caucase (1859) – remains too little known, despite a handsome large octavo reprint in 2002, running 415 pages, including itinerary, map and illustrations. It is a sweeping, well-researched history coupled with acutely observed accounts of person- alities, life, and customs – full of color, and fueled by contagious enthusiasm. The author? None other than Alexandre Dumas. Is there an English translation? Yes – but so far only in part; Adventures in the Caucasus, by Alexandre Dumas, was published in London in 1952 (the Amer- ican co-edition was titled Alexandre Dumas’ Adventures in Caucasia). Regret- tably, the book is a small octavo of only 205 pages. Dumas wrote expansively, skillfully weaving relevant history into his text, but much was excised in order to concentrate on travel elements and cut production costs. Nonetheless, the

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