November 2006 Popular Woodworking

THE WORKSHOP WINWIN OF YOUR DREAMS NOVEMBER 2006 ISSUE #158

Learn How ■ Discover Why ■ Build Better BATTLE OF THE BAND SAWS We Test 6 Sleek, Supercharged Steel-body Saws Lost Stickley Side Table We Discover a Discarded Design PLUS ■ Sand Less to Sand Better! ■ Complete Guide to Dyes EXTRA: New Tools for 2007 US $5.99 CAN $7.99 11

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Learn How ■ Discover Why ■ Build Better contentsIN EVERY ISSUE 12 Dust Collection Upgrade Tips LETTERS PVC or metal – which tubing is best for dust-collection upgrades? Plus, learn swirl-mark avoidance techniques for random-orbit sanding, get the skinny on food-safe ﬁ nishes and discover the meaning of “moving ﬁ llister.” 2020 20 Upgrade Your Miter Gauge TRICKS OF THE TRADE This clever auxiliary miter-gauge fence not only provides greater workpiece bearing, it supports work right up to the blade to minimize tear-out. Plus, build a jig for accurate and easy lock-miter joints and a quick-change band saw table.

30 $80 Router a Good Buy 30 TOOL TEST Surprise – an $80 router that’s actually a good buy for the home woodworker. Plus, a small digital fractional- readout caliper ﬁ nally hits the market, and a wooden plane kit allows you to shape your future (future plane, that is). 34 Period Sharpening a Grind ARTS & MYSTERIES An archeological experiment results in some surprising revelations about tools sharpened on a grindstone. by Adam Cherubini 38 Convertible Magazine Rack I CAN DO THAT ThisThis kknock-downnock-down mmagazineagazine rrackack ddoublesoubles aass a bbookook sstandtand fforor 38 youryour favoritefavorite rreferenceeference oror familyfamily Bible.Bible. And,And, itit requiresrequires onlyonly a ffewew simplesimple toolstools andand a fewfew hourshours toto build.build. 34 byby CChristopherhristopher SSchwarzchwarz 76 ModernicaModernica GREATGREAT WWOODSHOPSOODSHOPS Number 158, November 2006. Popular Woodworking “Mid-century“Mid-century mmodern”odern” ggetsets a bbeautifuleautiful 21st-century21st-century updateupdate (ISSN 0884-8823,USPS 752-250) is published 7 times a year in February, April, June, August, October, November inin BalticBaltic birchbirch andand bentbent lamination.lamination. and December by F+W Publications Inc. Editorial and byby JJohnohn HHutchinsonutchinson advertising offices are located at 4700 E. Galbraith Road, Cincinnati, Ohio 45236; tel.: 513-531-2222. Unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and artwork should include ample postage on a self-addressed, stamped envelope (SASE); otherwise they will not be returned. Subscription rates: A year’s subscription (7 issues) is $19.96; outside of U.S. add $7/year ■ Canada Publications Mail Agreement No. 40025316. Canadian return address: 2835 Kew Drive, Windsor, ON N8T 3B7 ■ Copyright 2006 by Popular Wood- working. Periodicals postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio, and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send all address 7676 changes to Popular Woodworking, P.O. Box 420235, Palm Coast, FL 32142-0235 Canada GST Reg. # R122594716 ■ Produced and printed in the U.S.A.

popularwoodworking.compopularwoodworking.com 3 PROJECTS, TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES 40 14"14" Steel-frameSteel-frame BandBand SawsSaws AllAll tthehe mmodelsodels wwee ttriedried performedperformed wellwell forfor generalgeneral curvescurves andand joineryjoinery wwork,ork, bbutut rresawingesawing provedproved a trickytricky testtest fforor ssomeome machines.machines. FFindind outout whichwhich ssawsaws wewe recommendrecommend – andand whichwhich onesones ddon’ton’t mmakeake thethe ccut.ut. For A Free Catalog Or To Find Your Local Woodcraft Store, Visit www.woodcraft.com Or Call 800-542-9115. by David Thiel ON THE COVER 45 SettingSetting UpUp Shop:Shop: Fasten your tool belts and prepare for the Senior Editor David Thiel LightingLighting & ElectricityElectricity ultimate test drive. Visit your local Woodcraft tests the latest steel- frame 14” band saws WOODWORKINGWOODWORKING EESSENTIALSSSENTIALS store to take a spin with Festool's in his swan song as a EvenEven thethe bbestest toolstools won’twon’t functionfunction withoutwithout properproper member of the shopshop wwiring.iring. PPlus,lus, iit’st’s nicenice toto sseeee whatwhat you’reyou’re doing!doing! new Rotex Dual Mode Sander! PlanPlan aheadahead forfor youryour lightinglighting andand electricityelectricity needs.needs. magazine staff. by Bill Stankus

Cover photo by Al Parrish 53 R Reﬁeﬁ ningning thethe EdgeEdge HoneHone yyourour ssharpeningharpening skillsskills ssoo yyourour ccarvingarving toolstools cutcut throughthrough woodwood aass iiff iitt wwereere bbutter.utter. A mmasteraster ccarverarver showsshows yyouou hhowow ttoo workwork withwith slipstonesslipstones aandnd sstrops.trops. by David Calvo 56

DEPARTMENTS 56 Lost Stickley Table A one-of-a-kind table reappears at auction after disappearing for a century. We show you how to make 10 Out on a Limb The perfect saw is it, tricky angled joints and all. still in my head by Robert W. Lang 90 Flexner on 62 Superior & Speedy Sanding FESTOOL Rotex Dual Mode Sander Model RO 150 FEQ Finishing The difference between an OK project and a great If you need fast material removal plus smooth fine sanding, Making sense of dyes project is often the fi nish – and that starts with the but only want to buy one tool, the Rotex is for you. It switches sanding. This 23-year veteran of cabinetmaking instantly from random orbital sanding motion to the Rotex rotary 96 Out of the shares his professional tricks and tips. random orbital motion, to cover rough sanding, fine sanding, and 62 3 Woodwork by Troy Sexton polishing. 6" Dual Mode Sander has a /16" stroke for intermediate Grumpy Old Men by Peter Sieling sanding and fast stock removal. 6 Amps, 320-660 RPM rotary 68 New Tools motion speed, 3,300-6,800 RPM eccentric motion speed, 5 lb. From Atlanta Tool manufacturers offered a sneak peek of the new tools that will be in Systainer Storage Angle Unit Multifunction Table Dust Extractor CT 22 Toolie Tool catalogs and stores this fall. Before you buy your next tool, be sure to check out our up-to-the-minute report on the latest products. by Christopher Schwarz 70 The Right Way to Prepare Lumber Visit www.woodcraft.com/festool.aspx to see the full line of Festool products. Dept: 06PW11P Milling stock: What you do, how you do it and in what order you do each operation will infl uence your projects from start to fi nish. 70 by Glen Huey QUALITY WOODWORKING TOOLS • SUPPLIES • ADVICE™

6 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 popularwoodworking.com ®

November 2006, Vol. 26, No. 6 popularwoodworking.com Editorial Ofﬁ ces 513-531-2690

Publisher & Group Editorial Director Steve Shanesy Editor Christopher Schwarz Online Tools ext. 1407 • [email protected] Art Director Linda Watts ext. 1396 • [email protected] Popular Woodworking’s Blog Senior Editor David Thiel ext. 1255 • [email protected] Our blog fi nally went live, and we’re having Senior Editor Robert W. Lang a lot of fun with it – all those random wood- ext. 1327 • [email protected] working (and other relevant) thoughts that Managing Editor Megan Fitzpatrick don’t make it into the magazine are easily ext. 1348 • megan.fi [email protected] added to the blog (you’ll fi nd a link on the Associate Designer Susan L. Smith ext. 1058 • [email protected] home page). Project Illustrator John Hutchinson For example, Bob Lang has posted addi- The new Popular Woodworking TT-shirt,-shirt, mugmug andand Photographer Al Parrish tional pictures and technique instruction to other items are now available at cafepress.com/ Contributing Editors make the keyed through mortise-and-tenon popwood. Adam Cherubini, Nick Engler, Bob Flexner, and angled-dovetail joints for the Stickley Glen Huey, Don McConnell, Troy Sexton table project in this issue. a sartorial statement quite like a Popular F+W PUBLICATIONS INC. You’ll also fi nd a link from the blog to our David H. Steward, Chairman & CEO Woodworking TT-shirt.-shirt. Or,Or, hhoistoist tthehe llogoogo aaloftloft Barbara Schmitz, VP, Manufacturing new Popular Woodworking logologo items,items, avail-avail- on what’s sure to become your favorite cof- Eric Svenson, Group Publisher, Interactive Media able at Café Press (cafepress.com/popwood). fee mug! (pssttt … each mug design will be F+W PUBLICATIONS INC. We’re sure you’ll agree that nothing makes available only for a limited time.) PW MAGAZINE GROUP William R. Reed, President Joel Toner, VP & Publishing Director Sara DeCarlo, VP, Consumer Marketing Susan Du Bois, VP, Circulation Operations Tom Wiandt, Business Planning Inside Online Sara Dumford, Conference Director Deb Westmaas, Group Circulation Director Contact Customer Service Magazine Extras Cristy Malcolm, Newsstand Sales Supervisor Have a question about your subscription, Here, you’ll fi nd article corrections (yes, it’s PRODUCTION Vicki Whitford, Production Manager a change of address or need to renew? true – once in a while we make a mistake), Debbie Thomas, Production Coordinator Contact customer service quickly and expanded project plans, 18th-century ADVERTISING easily using the online form. shop inventories and other curious items. Don Schroder, Advertising Director 331 N. Arch St., Allentown, PA 18104 Free Project Plans In short – stuff we thought was important and interesting, but just couldn’t fi t into Tel. 610-821-4425; Fax 610-821-7884 Every month, we simply give away some [email protected] of our most popular project plans. the print magazine. Advertising Production Coordinator Nancy Miller, Tel. 513-531-2690 ext. 1228 Article Index Tool Reviews [email protected] From miter saws to metal-bodied spoke- Looking for a specifi c technique or proj- SUBSCRIPTION SERVICES: Subscription inquiries, orders ect, or all the articles from your favorite shaves, you’ll find a selection of tool and address changes can be made at popularwoodworking.com reviews you need to outfi t your shop with (click on “Customer Service FAQs”). Or by mail: Popular Woodworking, author? Look no further than the mag- P.O. Box 420235, Palm Coast, FL 32142-0235. Or call toll-free azine’s online article index! And when the machines and hand tools that best fi t 877-860-9140 or 386-246-3369. Include your address your needs and price range. with all inquiries. Allow 6 to 8 weeks for delivery. you fi nd what you need, it’s a simple click NEWSSTAND DISTRIBUTION: Curtis Circulation Co., to order a back issue. Writer’s Guidelines 730 River Road, New Milford, NJ 07646 ATTENTION RETAILERS: Got a great idea for an article? Here’s how To carry Popular Woodworking in your store, call 800-894-4656 to submit your proposal. or write Magazine Retail Sales, P.O. Box 5014, Iola, WI 54945-5014. Back issues are available. Call 800-258-0929 for Contact the Staff pricing or visit popularwoodworking.com. Send check or money order to: Popular Woodworking Back Issues, If you have a question about Popular F+W Publications Products, 700 E. State St., Iola, WI Woodworking, about woodworking in 54990. Please specify publication, month and year. general … or even a complaint about the magazine, we want to hear it. You SAFETY NOTE can contact us directly through our web Safety is your responsibility. Manufacturers place safety site – and we even give you our direct devices on their equipment for a reason. In many pho- phone numbers. tos you see in Popular Woodworking, these have been removed to provide clarity. In some cases we’ll use an awkward body position so you can better see what’s Visit popularwoodworking.com being demonstrated. Don’t copy us. Think about each today – and explore. procedure you’re going to perform beforehand. OUT ON A LIMB

CONTRIBUTORS The Perfect Saw is BILL STANKUS Before Bill Stankus began woodworking more than two decades ago, he was an oceanographer and fine-arts photogra- Still in My Head pher. In addition to building custom fi ne furniture, Bill specializes in museum-quality restoration of antique hen buying tools, it’s easy to either some restoration. When it’s done, it’s going furniture. He has taught Wromanticize the past or be blinded by to be a nice machine, I’m sure. (In fact, check woodworking and given something shiny and new. Case-in-point: My out the blog on our web site for more details woodworking seminars long-standing effort to fi nd the right band saw and photos of the restoration). throughout the United for my shop at home. But now I just have to make sure that his- States, consulted with I inherited my first band saw from my tory doesn’t repeat itself. In this issue we review major tool manufacturers, and written grandfather. It was a late 1930s Craftsman steel-frame band saws, and all six of them are numerous articles and books on woodwork- – completely solid but completely worn out. lined up in our shop right now. Last week I ing – including “How to Plan and Build I considered restoring it, but one day I saw a caught myself checking out the trunnions of Your Ideal Workshop” (Popular Woodwork- beautiful steel-frame machine in a catalog the shiny beasts …. ing Books). For this issue, he’s written the and ordered it on impulse. Woodworking Essentials supplement (you’ll Two days after it arrived, Good News and Bad fi nd it in the center of the magazine) on I sent the saw back. The This is Senior Editor David lighting and electricity for your shop. machine’s table simply Thiel’s last issue with Popular wasn’t sturdy. In fact it Woodworking. DavidDavid startedstarted wobbled under the slightest working for the magazine 11 TROY SEXTON pressure, unlike the table of my years ago, right after F+W Pub- Troy Sexton built his fi rst project – an end old Craftsman, which was stiff lications, Inc. acquired it. I have table – in high school for his girlfriend. enough to perform chin-ups worked side-by-side with David He didn’t have a lot of tools and ended up on – I think it was the design of since I walked in the door here rigging a table-mounted jigsaw to do the the saw’s trunnions that made in 1996 and he is one of the job. It was the start of the difference. reasons this magazine has come something big. Troy So I bought a new traditional so far in the last decade. married the girlfriend, cast iron-frame band saw. It was sturdier than That is the bad news. The good news is that became a successful the steel-frame saw, but not as stout as my he hasn’t gone far away. David has become cabinetmaker and has grandfather’s machine. The new machine was the executive editor of Popular Woodworking developed a passion and fi ne. And this is where things stood for many Books, where he will be shaping the content knowledge for power years, until I got a call from a friend. of our company’s line of woodworking books. tools that few wood- He’d found an old Rockwell band saw Expect great things. I do. workers can match. Sexton’s cabinet- (likely from the 1970s) that had never been Our offi ce is a little quieter now that he’s making career was launched by working assembled or used. In fact, the base of the moved upstairs, a little less raucous. But as a subcontractor for The Workshops of machine was still in the box. The trunnions rest assured that we’re working on fi nding a David T. Smith in Morrow, Ohio. He later and wheels were beefy. It was, in essence, a replacement and that we remain committed struck out on his own and now specializes new saw but an old design. I was sold. to providing a blend of power- and hand-tool in building reproduction American pieces This weekend I brought the saw into my techniques on every page. We’re not about to and custom kitchens in his well-equipped shop and took it apart to lubricate it and set knock down something we’ve all worked so shop in Sunbury, Ohio. it up for use. And that’s when I started to hard to build. PW notice some problems. The screws that secured Our Privacy Promise to You the guides were rusted, a thrust bearing was We make portions of our customer list available to frozen, the top needed to be cleaned of rust, carefully screened companies that offer products the tires needed to be replaced and the list and services we believe you may enjoy. If you do not want to receive offers and/or information, please let is still growing. us know by contacting us at: In short, I’m back where I started about Christopher Schwarz List Manager, F+W Publications eight years ago – with an old saw that needs Editor 4700 E. Galbraith Road, Cincinnati, OH 45236

10 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 LETTERS Dust Collection: What Tubing is Best?

6"-diameter6"-diameter AttachAttach toto PVC pipe dustdust ccollectorollector 12-gauge12-gauge barebare coppercopper wirewire wrappedwrapped aroundaround MINIMIZE PVC pipe THE

RISK OF Attach to machine frame TOOL ROT. UpgradingUpgrading Home-shopHome-shop DustDust CollectionCollection I havehave a small,small, modestmodest shopshop andand I’mI’m planningplanning

Use Monitor Direct Vent ShanesyIllustrationHayes by onon uupgradingpgrading mmyy ddustust ccollectionollection ffromrom mmyy SSearsears Heaters This Winter wet/drywet/dry vacuumvacuum ttoo thethe GrizzlyGrizzly GG0548.0548. Monitor space heaters are the What’s the best tubing: metal or clear plas- The dust collector you mention should be perfect solution to your workshop tic? Also, what automatic blast gate system do a signifi cant step up from your shop vacuum, heating problems. Because Monitor you recommend? and there is some good information on plan- space heaters use outside air for Robert Davis ning your system in the Grizzly catalog. Keep- combustion, no cold air is drawn Somerville, New Jersey ing the runs of pipe as short as possible will have into your workshop. All combustion a signifi cant effect on your system’s effi ciency. air is brought into the sealed unit Either metal or plastic pipe will work – it’s all We have a system here in our shop that from outside and all exhaust gases a matter of your budget and particular situa- automatically turns on the dust collector when are expelled to the outside. No cold tion. Metal is more commonly used in indus- a machine is turned on. There are some sys- infiltration air, no fumes, and most importantly, no moisture — just trial situations. The advantage is that it is more tems that will turn the system on and off as you comfortable, affordable heat. Monitor durable, and it won’t need to be grounded to open and close manual gates, but I don’t have Products offers these sealed units in prevent the build up of static electricity. enough experience with any of them to recom- Kerosene Heating Systems, #1 Oil I would go with metal if I could afford it, mend one over the other. Heating Systems and Gas Heating and schedule 40 PVC pipe if I wanted to do it If we were to do it over, I think we would Systems. on the cheap. Some people will tell you that you use manually opening gates and a simple on/ run the risk of an explosion from static electric- off remote control to turn the system on. One ity with plastic pipe, but this has never been of the disadvantages to the automatic system is documented. The problems you will have with the continual on-and-off cycling of the motor static electricity are: 1) it can give you a shock on the dust collector, which could shorten the when you touch the pipe and 2) it will cause lifespan of the motor. If you’re working by dust to cling to the interior of the pipe, reducing yourself, it isn’t that big an issue to manually the air fl ow and effi ciency of your system. open and close the gates before you turn on a If you use plastic pipe, run a bare copper machine. What you want to avoid is walking wire around the outside of each run, and con- the length of the shop to turn the dust collector nect it to the metal frame of each machine, and on and off. to the dust collector. Some suggest that the wire — Robert W. Lang, senior editor should go inside the pipe. I’ve done it both ways and didn’t notice a difference in static buildup, Avoiding Swirl Marks from Sanding ONITOR but running the wire inside is more diffi cult, With a Random-orbit Sander ExperienceM The Warmth! and wood chips tend to catch on the wire, clog- I recently got a 5" random-orbit sander and Call toll-free, 1-800-524-1102 ging the entire system. I notice that I am getting swirl marks in my or visit www.monitorproducts.com continued on page 14

12 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 LETTERS continuedcontinued fromfrom pagepage 1212 wood – especially soft wood. I tried finer hoping you or one of your editors can answer sandpaper and even got one of those erasers for me. What type of wood is best for this to get the pitch and dust out of the grit but still project, and what type of fi nish should one I get swirls. The real bummer is that some- use on salad bowls? times I can’t tell they are there until I stain. Bill Jordan What do I do? Andalusia, Alabama John Lewing via the Internet Almost any sound hardwood is fi ne for salad bowls, though walnut could conceivably impart Random-orbit sanders do a good job, but they an unpleasant fl avor to food; and poplar, which won’t create a perfect surface. I suggest follow- is botanically a hardwood, is nonetheless a bit ing up the machine sanding with hand sanding A British moving fi llister plane made by C. Nurse. soft to turn well and wouldn’t be very durable. with the next fi ner grit. For example, if you The fence is secured by the two screws. But all the common domestic woods are great: machine sand to #150, hand sand with #180. oak, ash, maple, cherry, hickory and many This should take care of the swirl marks, and tioned in front of the plane’s cutting iron. The others. Maple is probably my favorite, and it won’t take very long. A good way to judge nicker slices the shoulder of the rabbet joint and is readily available most places. A large bowl the surface before staining is to wipe it down then the plane iron removes the waste next to will need to be roughed out and allowed to dry with a rag dampened in mineral spirits or paint the joint’s shoulder. before fi nal turning, but smaller ones could be thinner. Look at the surface from an angle, — Christopher Schwarz, editor made from dry lumberyard stock. and you’ll have a better view of any defects.For Any fi nish is safe for food once the solvents more expert sanding advice, see Troy Sexton’s Table Pins a Continuing Mystery have evaporated completely. I would not use a article, “Superior & Speedy Sanding” in this I just read the letter by Steven D. Buckley hard surface fi nish (such as lacquer or varnish), issue on page 62. about Queen Anne tabletop pins allowing because it will deteriorate in use and will soon — Robert W. Lang, senior editor conversion of the tabletop to a slanted writing look quite ratty. Penetrating fi nishes will seal desk (August 2006, issue #156). and protect the wood, and most can be renewed ‘Moving Fillister’ Explanation While writing the article (April 2006, issue if desired. I use an oil and wax mixture; the oil I read with great interest the article on the #154), I consulted with two of the country’s serves to carry the wax deeper into the wood libella in your August 2006 issue (#156), by top experts on American antique furniture fi bers, and it imparts a bit of a sheen (but not a Samuel Peterson. about why so many of these tables had remov- hard gloss) to the wood. I would greatly appreciate your clarifying able tops. The answer I was given from both of Many commercial varieties of this fi nish something for me. On page 73, Peterson refers them was basically the same … no one really are available and will be labeled as suitable or to a “moving fi llister” being used to make a knows. One thought is that they allow easy intended for salad bowls; you may want to try slight rabbet. It states that, “The moving fi l- replacement. Another is that it’s an aid in several to see which one(s) you prefer. lister will do the job in no time – it controls the moving. Yet another is so the top can easily be — Judy Ditmer, PW contributor depth of cut and even scores the wood before taken outside to give it a good cleaning. the cutter slices off the desired amount.” I have worked on at least 20 antique tables “I Can Do That” Column and Online If you would clarify this for me I will be (and I have built at least six variants), ranging Manual are Both a Hit with Readers most grateful. from 20" x 36" tops to 40" x 72" tops. None of Thank you for the “I Can Do That” section Karl King them had extra holes with longer pins in the and especially the ICDT manual (available at Norwood, New York rear and none of them would allow the top ICanDoThatExtras.com). I was so impressed to tilt just by removing the rear pins. If you with the no-nonsense approach for each topic A moving fi llister plane is a classic plane that is look at the geometry of the front pin loca- that I subscribed online to Popular Wood- used to cut a rabbet; sometimes it’s a wooden- tions, it is usually physically impossible to working beforebefore thethe printerprinter waswas eveneven fi nishednished bodied plane and sometimes it’s a metal one, tilt the top more than an inch or so. Maybe printing out the manual! The manual is a such as the Stanley 78. One English term for Clara’s table was modifi ed at a later date to must-read and is so well written that anyone rabbet is fi llister. The reason the plane is called a perform this function but I would say that it at any level who is interested in woodwork- moving fi llister is because the plane has a fence is an anomaly. ing will fi nd themselves saying, “I Can Do that moves and allows the plane to cut rabbets Craig W. Bentzley That, Too!” of various widths. There also are planes called Chalfont, Pennsylvania DeNault Schwartz II standing fi llisters that cut a rabbet of one width Fayetteville, North Carolina only (3⁄8", 1⁄2" etc.). Wood Selection for Salad-bowl Set The reason the moving fi llister can score the I am planning on turning a salad-bowl set – a Drill Press Purchase Recommendation work before cutting it is that it has a spur or large mixing bowl and eight smaller serving I am looking for a drill press for my shop. In nicker – essentially a small knife that is posi- bowls. I have a couple of questions that I am looking at Jet machines (models JDP-17MF

14 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 and JDP-17FSE), I noticed a difference in the motors. One motor is labeled “TEFC” and the other motor is not. What is the difference between the two? Tom Robb Mount Pleasant, North Carolina

The TEFC stands for “Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled.” It means the motor has a fan built in that assists in cooling the motor ﬁ ns. This can help extend the life of the motor. The “totally enclosed” part means that the motor is sealed against dust and even most moisture. This can also help extend the life of the motor, especially in a dusty environment. While a TEFC motor costs a little more, it’s a reasonable investment in the future of your machine. — David Thiel , senior editor

Make Easy Curves with Minimum Fuss I recently read and thoroughly enjoyed “Com- plementary Curves” (Power-tool Joinery, June 2006, Issue #155). I recently built a number of boxes for a craft show and I did something similar to the box shown in the photograph on the opening page of the article. I thought maybe some of your readers might be interested in the method I used, which was quite different but accomplished the same result with a minimum of fuss. Stacking the material and using a band saw to cut the line (much like the method used in laying vinyl) produces a very nice joined panel. I sometimes had to very lightly sand the joint line to produce the tight ﬁ t that I was looking for but the result was that all the boxes shown in the craft show (12 in all) sold within the ﬁ rst two hours of the show. If planning to build only a single box, to minimize waste, offset the boards to just slightly overlap along the layout line then make your curved cut. Randall Nelson Jefferson, North Carolina

Kudos for Self-releasing Collets I just ﬁ nished reading your article on trim routers in the June 2006 issue (#155). I could not ﬁ nd any reference to one of the most important features of the Bosch PR20EVSK router: It has a self-releasing collet. Frozen bits are one of the biggest problems with these marvel- ous little machines! This self-releasing collet eliminates this problem. continued on page 16

popularwoodworking.com 15 CIRCLE NO. 162 ON FREE INFORMATION CARD. LETTERS continuedcontinued fromfrom pagepage 1515

I don’t know whether any of the other Rust Protection for Long-term Storage QUESTION? COMPLAINT? routers in your test have this feature, but it I am a member of the United States Air Force, certainly is a very big one. and I’m being transferred to England for the WRITE TO US Ron Abel next four years. The houses are small there, Popular Woodworking wwelcomeselcomes commentscomments Brunswick , Ohio and they use a different type of power supply. from readers about the magazine or wood- So, I’ll be storing all of my larger machines. working in general, as well as questions on all areas of woodworking. We are more I don’t know if I share your enthusiasm for the They will not be stored in a climate-controlled than happy to share our woodworking ex- importance of a self-releasing collet for a trim environment. What can I put on my cast iron perience with you by answering your ques- router, but it is a nice feature for both trim rout- tops to protect them from rusting? tions or adding some clarity to whatever ers and the full-size tools. Tech. Sgt. Garrett Pearce aspect of the craft you are unsure about, As you correctly identiﬁ ed, the Bosch does Little Rock AFB, Arkansas and if you have a complaint, we want to address it whenever possible. have a collet that keeps the bit from getting “stuck.” It was the only router in the test with I’ve had to store machinery for long periods, Though we receive a good deal of mail, we such a collet, and as such continues to earn and the best way I found to protect the cast iron try to respond to all correspondence in a prompt manner. Published correspondence our highest marks. I spoke with Jim Stevens at was to smear on a thick coat of paste wax on may be edited for length or style. All corre- Bosch not too long ago about router collets and all the cast iron surfaces. Don’t bother trying to spondence becomes the property of Popular he mentioned that throughout the tool industry buff it out or make it shiny, just put on a liberal Woodworking. self-releasing collets are now close to standard amount. You can remove it with mineral spirits Send your questions and comments via on every machine. when you return. The other thing to consider e-mail to [email protected], via fax to He was speaking about 2-horsepower and is to remove the belts from the motors of your 513-891-7196, or by mail to: larger routers, but I would guess that the stan- machines. If you store them with tension on the Letters Popular Woodworking dard will trickle down into trim routers during belts, you can actually create ﬂ at spots on the 4700 E. Galbraith Road the next few years. bearings over a long period of time. PW Cincinnati, OH 45236 — David Thiel, senior editor — Robert W. Lang, senior editor

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CIRCLE NO. 102 ON FREE INFORMATION CARD. CIRCLE NO. 133 ON FREE INFORMATION CARD. Compiled by Paul Anthony TRICKS OF THE TRADE Illustrations by Matt Bantly Adjustable Miter-gauge Fence

Fence is attached to miter gauge with bolts locked in the T-track THE WINNER: RepositionReposition fencefence asas itit wearswears Like many woodworkers, I attach an auxiliary fence to my table saw’s and band saw’s miter gauge. In addition to providing greater bearing for a workpiece, an auxiliary fence can support a workpiece right up to the blade, backing up the cut to minimize tear-out. A fence that reaches the blade also allows you to conveniently set up a cut by simply aligning the workpiece to the end of the fence. Unfortunately, after using different blades, the end of my fence gets over cut, and no longer Screw T-track into abuts some of my blades. I’ve found that the groove in fence best solution is to make an auxiliary fence that adjusts side to side by means of a short section of aluminum T-track screwed into a groove in the back of the fence. The T-track (commonly joint jig pin to the blade, ensuring perfectly Effi cient Stock Dressing available from various woodworking suppliers) fi tting fi nger joints. When dressing rough-cut stock to fi nal accepts the heads of a couple 1⁄4" bolts that Aluminum T-track can be cut to length size, there is a real effi ciency to be gained extend through my miter gauge and are fi xed easily with a standard carbide blade. You can in how you move your workpieces from in place with nuts. Now when the fence wears, also easily drill it to create screw holes for machine to machine. For example, one I simply reposition it and recut the end. One attachment into its groove. It’s wise to use common approach to milling stock begins other great benefi t is that I can temporarily brass screws when there’s a chance that you at the jointer, where one face is dressed clamp or screw a fi nger-joint jig to my auxiliary might hit them accidentally with a blade. fl at. Then the workpieces are moved to fence, and I have built-in micro-adjustability Robert Collins the planer for dressing the opposite face for setting the precise distance from the fi nger Snyder, New York while bringing the stock to fi nal thickness. After that, the stock moves back to the jointer to square and straighten one CASH AND PRIZES FOR YOUR TRICKS AND TIPS! edge, then to the table saw for ripping to fi nal width. To complete the process, the EachEach issueissue wewe publishpublish usefuluseful woodworkingwoodworking tipstips fromfrom ourour readers.readers. stock is crosscut to fi nal length. NextNext iissue’sssue’s winnerwinner receivesreceives a sharpeningsharpening setset fromfrom VeritasVeritas forfor traditionaliststraditionalists wwhoho ppreferrefer sharpeningsharpening chiselschisels andand planeplane bladesblades byby The issue here is that, when jointing hand.hand. TheThe ssetet includesincludes a MKIIMKII HoningHoning Guide,Guide, SkewSkew RegistrationRegistration and planing, the stock should be oriented Jig,Jig, CCamberamber RollerRoller Accessory,Accessory, 1,000x1,000x andand 4,000x/8,000x4,000x/8,000x NortonNorton correctly for cutting in the direction of WaterWater Stones,Stones, a VeritasVeritas StoneStone PondPond andand a BevelBevel Gauge.Gauge. TheThe totaltotal the grain to minimize tear-out. You can value of this prize is $250. save yourself a lot of confusion and grief by Runners-upRunners-up eeachach rreceiveeceive a ccheckheck fforor $$2525 ttoo $$100.100. WWhenhen ssubmit-ubmit- keeping the pieces organized in the same tingting a ttrickrick ((eithereither bbyy mmailail oorr ee-mail)-mail) yyouou mmustust iincludenclude yyourour ccom-om- orientation as a group as they move from pleteplete mmailingailing aaddressddress aandnd a ddaytimeaytime pphonehone nnumber.umber. IIff machine to machine. That way, the grain youryour ttrickrick iiss sselectedelected fforor ppublication,ublication, aann on all the pieces rises or falls in the same editor will need to contact you. direction, so you don’t have to re-check for All entries become the property grain direction every time you prepare to of Popular Woodworking. You joint or plane a piece. It also ensures that can send your trick by e-mail to you don’t confuse a jointed edge with a [email protected],[email protected], oror mailmail itit sawn edge, or a squarely crosscut end with to Tricks of the Trade, PopularPopular WoodworkingWoodworking, 4700 E. Galbraith Road, Cincinnati, OH 45236. its yet-to-be-squared opposite end. Paul Anthony, PW contributor continued on page 22

20 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 TRICKS OF THE TRADE

continuedcontinued fromfrom pagepage 2020 High Jig Adds Accuracy to Routing Lock-miter Joints Performance I ﬁ nd that routing lock miter joints for drawer thing from 1⁄2"-thick Baltic birch plywood corners can be a problem. For the joint to scraps that I had on hand. It’s easy to build ﬁ t well, it must be cut consistently along its from the drawing, but here are just a few con- Power Tools length on the router table, with one workpiece struction tips: fed horizontally, and the mating workpiece fed Screw the bottom guide rail to the back- Need the BEST vertically. Unfortunately, even when using a board, then attach the backboard to your pusher board, the horizontally fed workpiece fence. Adjust the bit to cutting height, and Abrasives can “waggle” somewhat past the bit, while the rotate the fence into the bit to create a zero- vertically fed workpiece tends to dive into the clearance opening. Make the pusher unit parts bit opening, compromising the cut. and assemble the panels, gusset and reinforce- Norton makes sanding easier with My router table jig solves these problems. It ment block together, carefully squaring the 3 times the total performance over consists of a “pusher unit” that slides between panels, and gluing them without screws (which conventional products. Ask your two guide rails on a backboard that attaches would be in the bit path.) Rest the center rail woodworking supplier for Norton to my stock router table fence. (Alternatively, in place, and screw and glue the pusher unit to 3X discs and sheets. you could devise a simple base of some sort for it. Screw the upper guide rail in place, shim- the backboard to create a stand-alone fence/ ming it above the center rail with a playing jig.) The pusher unit feeds workpieces both card to prevent binding. Attach the retaining horizontally and vertically across the bit, and strip, which helps keep the pusher unit sol- consists of two pusher panels, a gusset and a idly against the fence. Insert a playing card reinforcement block, all of which connect to between the strip and each rail to prevent a sliding center rail. binding. Finally, attach a toggle clamp to the The sizes of the parts aren’t critical, and vertical pusher panel to help stabilize your depend somewhat on the size of drawers you workpiece during the cut. typically make. My fence is about 10" high, Jim Lancaster with a 6"-wide center rail. I made the whole Dallas, Texas continued on page 24

Retaining strip Workpiece

Vertical Max. board push panel width

Guide rail

Center rail

Backboard Bolt jig to router fence

Lock miter bit

Router fence

Guide rail Workpiece ReinforcementReinforcement block Horizontal Gusset

® push panel TheThe MuscleMuscle BehindBehind thethe MachineMachine™

D-I-Y/Contractor Market www.nortonconsumer.com

CIRCLE NO. 139 ON FREE INFORMATION CARD. 22 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 TRICKS OF THE TRADE

continuedcontinued fromfrom pagepage 2222 WoodenWooden clipclip Quick-change

Band Saw Table CleatCleat I fi nd my stock band saw table too small to support many workpieces, so I outfi tted it with a larger, auxiliary table. However, I wanted to be able to remove it quickly when I needed to utilize my saw’s maximum cutting height. The solution was easy. I simply cut a plywood table to the desired size, then used a square to mark the location of the intended saw kerf that extends to the center of the panel. After band sawing to the line, I held PlywoodPlywood auxiliaryauxiliary tabletable the panel in place and carefully traced the outline of my stock table onto the underside of the panel. I removed the panel and glued wooden cleats in place along my lines, just rubbing the glued parts together. (No need to use screws or nails here.) After the glue dried, I attached a wooden clip to each cleat with a single screw, notching the underside of each clip as necessary to accommodate the thickness of the stock table. By pivoting the clips out of the way, I can remove the table in about fi ve seconds. Craig Bentzley Notch clip if cleats don’t Stock table Chalfont, Pennsylvania match stock table thickness

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�� Installing Threaded Inserts Threaded inserts can be useful for jigs, ﬁ xtures accommodate the threaded insert and the two in place using a wrench. You can make sure and even furniture when certain parts need jam nuts. Drill a hole that matches the shank your pilot hole is square to the work surface to be removed and reinstalled. An insert is a diameter of the installation bolt, and make by drilling it using a block with a guide hole metal sleeve with a threaded interior to accept sure that it passes through enough wood to that was made on the drill press. a bolt, and a threaded exterior for installing keep the bolt from wobbling. To use the jig, Jon Rouleau the insert itself into a pilot hole. Installation simply thread the bolt through the hole, screw Geneseo, New York typically involves threading a couple nuts onto on the jam nuts and the insert, then place the continued on page 26 a bolt, jamming them against each other, then jig over your pilot hole and drive the insert threading the bolt into the insert until the jam nuts contact the top edge of the insert, which allows you to then drive it into its hole. HoldHold jigjig oror clampclamp The problem is that inserts have a tendency TurnTurn boltbolt to workpiece to cock as you try to install them into their toto ddriverive holes, and once the threads start grabbing, insertinsert iintonto workpieceworkpiece they’re hard to correct. To help hold the insert vertically for installation, many woodworkers hacksaw the head off the installation bolt, chuck it in a drill JamJam nnutsuts press and hand-turn the chuck to install the insert. This works ﬁ ne for smaller parts, but ThreadedThreaded insertinsert not for items too big for the drill press table. In those cases, I use a simple notched wooden PilotPilot hholeole block to serve as a vertical guide. Workpiece The jig can be made from any piece of thick scrap wood. Cut the notch deep enough to

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�� CIRCLE NO. 132 ON FREE INFORMATION CARD.

�� TRICKS OF THE TRADE continuedcontinued fromfrom pagepage 2424 A Super Applicator From Ze Mouth of Babes Scribing with Washers for CA Glue I’m the grandfather of a 13-month-old, Ren- While on the job site and installing cabi- aud. I try to see him as often as I can, and each nets, I was preparing to scribe a face frame There are times when I need to apply very time we have fun and exchange a few tips. to fi t against an irregular wall when I real- narrow mouldings, carvings or other work The last time I saw him he told me, “Hey ized I forgot to bring my compass. I was pieces with cyanoacrylate (CA) glue. Papi, since you don’t have running water wondering if I had time to go retrieve it Unfortunately, I’ve found that it’s a prob- in your workshop, why don’t you use those when I remembered that an old finish lem to lay down a narrow rivulet of this unscented wipes Mom uses to clean my bot- carpenter once showed me how to scribe stuff because the applicator tip is either tom when she changes my diapers? It would be using regular hardware washers, which I too wide, or it’s clogged. useful to clean up a mess, squeezed-out glue, always seem to have on hand. I tried it, To lay down a precise bead of glue, I dirty fi ngers and even wipe your water-base and it worked well. reach for the ruling pen from my drafting fi nish cans.” I told him this was a great tip and First place the trim to be scribed as close set. A ruling pen (available at most art asked him if I should share it with my buddy to the wall as possible. Then select a washer supply stores) is a tweezer-like tool with woodworkers. He said “Yeah, go ahead!” (in whose ring thickness equals the widest sec- a screw for adjusting the amount of space French, of course – he’s too young to have tion of the gap you need to close. Place the between the legs. It is designed to hold a learned English yet.) washer on the trim, with its edge pressed drop or so of ink, which clings to the legs Serge Duclos against the wall. Insert the tip of a pencil by virtue of surface tension. The amount Québec, Canada inside the washer against the edge of the of space between the legs determines the ring closest to the wall. While holding the amount of ink that discharges in a line opposite edge of the washer down with a when the tip of the tool is dragged across fi nger, trace the scribe line all along the the target surface. A Clothes Iron in the Shop gap. Cut to the scribe line and check the Got the idea? Now just substitute the The next time you spot an old electric clothes fi t of the scribe. To refi ne the fi t, you can words “thin CA glue” for the word “ink” iron at a garage sale, you may want to pick it repeat the scribing process using a smaller- above. You’ll fi nd that you avoid getting up. I fi nd mine to be pretty useful around the diameter washer. PW messy globs of glue all over the workpiece. shop as an alternative to a heat gun. For one Mark Weller Just make sure to submerge the pen tip in thing, you can use it in repair work to remove Vineland, California a jar of acetone immediately afterward to old veneers and plastic laminate. prevent gluing the legs together. Just set it on “medium” and apply heat to Jean Darling the material to be removed. It will soften con- Wall Boston, Massachusetts tact cement, white and yellow glues, and hide Face frame glue, among other adhesives. (I usually cover the surface with thick paper to protect the iron from softened fi nish or other gunk.) Using the same technique, you can remove spent sandpaper that’s held in place with adhe- sive on a disk sander. You can use it to fl atten curled or crumpled patterns or drawings, and even to soften strips of wood and plastic for easy bending. Jason Haug Washer Missoula, Montana

Fine Brush Care I’ve noticed that using a wire brush to clean Scribe line partially hardened paint from my high-quality paintbrushes tends to damage the natural bristles. I’ve found that using a stiff-bristle nylon scrub brush works just as well without Adjust ruling pen screw hurting the paint brush. for size of glue bead Tom Jessups Springﬁ eld, Missouri

26 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 TOOL TEST

Firestorm Plunge Router a Great Value for Home Woodworkers

’m going to surprise a few of you by rec- During our shop tests we were pleased with up to a 115⁄1616"-diameter bit and that will get Iommending an $80 router in this column. the power provided by the Firestorm router. you through many a woodworking task. Frequently, less expensive routers are lacking Again, this isn’t a tool for a production shop, The plunge action on the router is a little in features and performance to the point that but in running rabbets and plunging 3⁄8" mor- tight and it’s our hope that it will loosen up I think your money is better saved until you tises in red oak, the router performed well, and with some more time in the shop, which it is can afford the tool you need. without motor hesitation. The base will accept sure to get. Wobble in the plunge mechanism But in this case, the new Firestorm plunge (leading to accuracy problems) was noticeable, router has performance and features that but not unacceptable. rival the more expensive routers. Don’t get The ergonomics of the router are decent, me wrong – this isn’t a router I’d recommend but again, it’s larger than its DeWalt cousin. for use in a production shop, but for the occa- For the price and features, however, we’re will- sional home woodworker (or for those who ing to work with that. — David Thiel think they could use an extra router) this tool For more information, circle #168 on Free Information Card. is a great bargain. The general consensus in the Popular SPECIFICATIONS Woodworking shopshop isis thatthat thethe DeWaltDeWalt DW621DW621 Firestorm FS1200RP is one of our favorite routers. The Firestorm is Street price: $80 an economy version of the DeWalt and offers Motor: 12 amp many of the same features, including through- Speed: Variable, 11,000 - 28,000 rpm the-column dust collection and a really solid Collets: 1⁄2" and 1⁄4" and useful depth-control mechanism. Performance: ●●●●❍ No, this isn’t as good a router as the DeWalt, Price range: $ and it’s a little larger than we’d prefer for con- Black & Decker: 800-54-How-To or venient handheld use, but for $80 it’s hard to ﬁ restormtools.com ﬁ nd much to pick on.

Ryobi Drill Press Has Features Beyond the Bells and Whistles At fi rst glance, the new “Digital Drill Press” great, but certainly serviceable. The operat- from Ryobi seems like a run-of-the-mill ing handles are a good length and angle to machine tricked out with a laser alignment provide plenty of leverage without getting in system and a digital readout. Under the top the way. The lasers functioned well for locat- cover, however, is a great way to change speeds. ing the center of the bit, but this really isn’t a I’ve always hated looking at the chart and fool- diffi cult task to do manually. ing around with the pulleys to change drilling On the whole, this is a nice little machine; speeds. And if I don’t guess right the fi rst time, the controls make sense and function as they I have to go through it all again. should. If it were possible to reduce the speed By adjusting the lever on the left side of to 200 rpm, it would be more versatile. the drill press, one pulley gets smaller in diam- — Robert W. Lang eter as the other one gets bigger. It’s just that For more information, circle #169 on Free Information Card. simple, and the digital readout lets you know exactly how fast the chuck is spinning. The downside to this system is that the slowest SPECIFICATIONS possible speed is just under 500 rpm. Our old- Ryobi DP121L fashioned drill press goes down to 215 rpm, Street price: $180 and for running a large Forstner bit or drum Speed: Variable, with digital readout 1 sander, that turtle mode is necessary. Motor: ⁄3 hp, 110 volt The cast iron table is made with a thin rim Laser: Adjustable alignment system Performance: ●●●❍❍ around the perimeter that makes clamping Price range: $$$ to the table much easier. The fi t and fi nish Ryobi: 800-525-2579 or on all parts of this machine is comparable to ryobitools.com most equipment on the market today – not

30 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 A Small Digital Fractional-readout Caliper – Finally! BOSCH Accurately measuring (both wood and I-DRIVER machinery) in the shop is important for every I’veI’ve nneverever understoodunderstood woodworker, and most woodworkers have thethe ““biggerbigger mmustust bbee cursed their caliper on more than one occa- better”better” philosophyphilosophy inin sion when they have to translate the decimal cordlesscordless sscrewdrivers.crewdrivers. Yes,Yes, yyouou nneedeed tthehe ppowerower reading to inches. toto getget thethe jjobob done,done, bbutut In the Popular Woodworking sshophop wwe’vee’ve I’dI’d ratherrather havehave a ttoolool come to a consensus that the perfect caliper thatthat wwillill fi t iintonto ttightight is a 4"-long digital caliper that will measure in places,places, andand won’twon’t strainstrain fractions (to 1⁄6464"). We’re happy to announce mymy wristwrist aandnd fforearmorearm that the perfect tool is now available for the everyevery timetime I ppickick iitt fi rst time, at an affordable price. upup ttoo useuse it.it. The Craftsman Gallery is now offering TheThe nnewew either a 4" or 6" digital caliper for $38. The SPECIFICATIONS PS-10-2PS-10-2 LitheonLitheon caliper can be switched to read in millimeters Digital/fractional Caliper I-Driver is a tremendous or inches, in either decimals or fractions (with Street price: $38 addition to my power-tool arsenal. This new battery technology delivers power to accuracy to 1⁄6464"). Readout: Reads in millimeters, and decimal spare in a compact, lightweight package. We’re particularly pleased that the calipers or fractional inches. 1⁄ It performs comparably to a standard 12- are well-manufactured and easy to use. The Accuracy: 6464", .001" Length: 4" or 6" volt cordless drill, and the fi ve-position 6" version is great for your bench, while the 4" Performance: ●●●●❍ articulating head allows it to go where model is the perfect size for dropping in your Price range: $$$ larger drivers won’t fi t. A button on the shop apron or work belt. —DT The Craftsman Gallery: 513-233-9019 or side allows the head to pivot from a right For more information, circle #170 on Free Information Card. craftsmangallery.com angle to an inline position. I found it most comfortable to use with the head at 90º to the motor. I don’t need a right-angle driver every day, but when I Veritas Ruler Stop: Pint-sized Accuracy do, this is a great tool. Most on the market aren’t comfortable for everyday use, but The combination square is standard equip- long as it’s 0.05" or thinner and between 7⁄8" this little guy has become my “go to” driver ment for many woodworkers, but it is overkill and 11⁄8" wide. The Ruler Stop is fantastic on for most applications. It’s comfortable, for most jobs. Most woodworkers need a well- my Shinwa 12" ruler, but it really shines on powerful and versatile, and it’s nice to marked ruler and a stop on it so measurements our 40"-long machinist ruler. The long rulers have fi ve ways to point it. can be transferred or a line scribed parallel to for the combination squares are shockingly The kit includes the driver with seven clutch settings, two batteries and a char- an edge. Rarely is a combination square’s miter expensive. The stop won’t work on our shop’s ger with a soft-sided case. It costs about as 3⁄ face, bubble level or scribe necessary. 6" rules, which are 4" wide. much as a 12v drill kit. After years of seeing Veritas’ new Ruler Stop is an inexpensive The Ruler Stop is well made and accurate. more of the same in cordless drills, it’s nice and elegant way to perform these common It has an edge over competing stops in that it to see a product that obviously has some operations without a bulky (or expensive) completely encases the ruler, making it less thoughtful engineering behind it. combination square. likely to fall off when you loosen the knob. —RL The stop slides over a ruler (not included) — Christopher Schwarz and cinches down accurately on any ruler, as For more information, circle #171 on Free Information Card. TOOL RATINGS Performance is rated on a one-to-fi ve scale. SPECIFICATIONS You won’t see a low rating (“one or two”) Veritas Ruler Stop because we don’t publicize inferior tools. Street price: $12.50, ruler not included “Five” indicates the leader in the category. Materials: Brass knob, aluminum body Five dollar signs indicates highest price in the category. Three indicates an average price. Size: 1" wide x 13⁄4" long (plus knob) If you have tool questions, call me at 513- Performance: ●●●●● 531-2690 ext. 1407, or e-mail me at chris. Price range: $ [email protected]. Or visit our web site Lee Valley Tools: 800-871-8158 or at popwood.com to sign up for our free e- leevalley.com mail newsletter. — Christopher Schwarz, editor

popularwoodworking.com 31 TOOL TEST

Build a Wooden Handplane – in a Day Making your own woodworking tools can be sole to the body and add the rewarding – but it can also be time-consuming cross dowel that secures the and thus takes you away from building furni- cutter with the wedge (which ture. Several years ago I felt exactly this way is included). when I built ﬁ ve metal planes from kits. Then comes the fun part: However, you can have the best of both Shape the 11"-long body using worlds: building furniture and the occasional a band saw, rasps and knives. useful woodworking tool. Hock Tools sells a Sharpen up the cutter, open wooden plane kit that you can assemble in the plane’s throat with a less than a day if you please. pocket knife, flatten the sole The $98.50 kit comes with pre-cut parts on some sandpaper and go to – a maple body and a jarrah sole – plus a sweet work. Honestly, most of the 11⁄2"-wide iron and a beefy chipbreaker made time invested in making this by Hock. The kit is designed to make a low- handplane is in allowing the slung plane like the ones popularized by crafts- glue to dry. man James Krenov, but because the body is Building your own plane – even from a SPECIFICATIONS wood, you can make any plane you please. kit – is a fast way to learn a lot about plane Hock Tools Plane Kit I used the kit to make a Roman-style plane, mechanics. You don’t need to do much tuning Street price: $98.50 3 with its unusual through-the-body grips, and on the plane, but the work you do have to do Iron: High-carbon steel, ⁄1616" thick the kit worked brilliantly for that. is quick (because the body is wood, not metal) Body: Maple and jarrah Performance: ●●●●● To build any style plane with this kit, here’s and enlightening for any handplane user. Price range: $$$$ what you do: First glue the two maple sidewalls My Roman-style plane came out great and Hock Tools: 888-282-5233 or to the two center blocks using four included is a blast to use. — CS hocktools.com dowels to keep the parts in line. Then glue the For more information, circle # 172 on Free Information Card.

Craftsman Digital Readout Plunge Router Adding a digital readout to a plunge router is can knock it loose by plunging with exces- more useful than adding a laser, but this digital sive pressure. So take it easy. feature alone might not be reason enough to Regarding the router’s other features, give up your old plunge router. The Crafts- I liked the soft-grip handles and the soft man #17517 allows you to set the depth of boot for the dust collection hose – too bad your cut in 1⁄6464" (or 0.1mm) increments and the dust chute clogged immediately every see the results in a lighted LCD window on time I used it. The router offers a nice 10'- the front of the tool. long cord, a spindle lock for one-wrench This clever function is surprisingly accu- bit changes and a motor that ramps up rate and easy to learn to use. You simply touch gradually and is variable in speed from the router’s cutter to your bench, press a button 15,000 to 25,000 rpm. The 10-amp motor to zero out the digital scale and then turn a dial itself is gutsy enough for most workshop to set the depth of cut you want. (The readout tasks, and is (like most routers) too loud is in fractions or in millimeters.) You then lock to be used without ear protection (89 dB the setting and start routing. One warning on up to 100 dB). The router comes standard this feature: the millimeter scale on this tool with both 1⁄2" and 1⁄4" collets. SPECIFICATIONS actually is ﬁ ner than the imperial scale so you For me, the router would be more appeal- Craftsman Digital Router (#17517) might be tempted to “go metric.” ing if the digital readout could be switched Street price: $140 The digital function works best with the to decimal fractions, the router were more Motor: 10 amp router used handheld – it’s less than perfect friendly in the router table and if the dust Speed: Variable, 15,000 - 25,000 rpm 1⁄ 1⁄ with the router mounted in a router table. chute functioned well. However, for the ﬁ rst Collets: 2" and 4" Performance: ●●●❍❍ Also, I think it’s too easy to accidentally “zero” digital-readout router I’ve ever used, I can say Price range: $$ out your setting when you intend to simply that I’m intrigued by what’s next. PW Craftsman: 800-549-4505 or turn off the digital readout. And while the — CS craftsman.com router holds its setting fairly well in use, you For more information, circle #173 on Free Information Card.

32 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 ARTS & MYSTERIES Period Sharpening

An experiment uncovers cutting edges of the past.

ow did they sharpen their tools back “H then?” I’ve asked this question myself and I have been asked the question, and I’ve never felt comfortable with any answer. We know that 18th-century woodworkers had grindstones and natural whetstones and that’s as far as any answer I’ve ever heard or given goes. I assume that the average 18th-century craftsman could produce an edge on his tools as sharp as modern woodworkers get. But is that true? Exactly how did period craftsmen sharpen their tools? What kind of edges did they get? To ﬁ nd out, I decided to purchase old whetstones and an old grindstone, make a period frame and give it a try.

Period Sharpening Gear Old inventories of workshops often include grindstones. They’re encountered so frequently we can safely assume they were typical. In addition to grindstones, craftsmen may have used sandstone or other abrasive “rubb stones” as coarse abrasive hones. Long before the widespread distribution of Arkansas oilstones, craftsmen had access to fi ne local, as well as imported, whetstones. André Roubo, authorthe byPhotos an early French chronicler of woodworking, One way to learn how tools were sharpened in the 18th century is to try it. I experimented with period mentioned that his stones came from the sharpening for nine months and was surprised by what I learned. Joseph Moxon describes this method Levant, an area presently identifi ed as Israel, of holding a plane iron: thumbs under, fi ngers on top. This is a good grip for freehand honing – especially when you are pushing a treadle 100 times a minute! Palestine, Jordan, Syria and Lebanon. As this area was then controlled by the Turk- ish empire, such stones were also known as One hundred years later, in “Construction, quality is much softer, almost white in color and “Turkey stones.” From Roubo’s 1774 volume Action and Application of Cutting Tools,” easy to work, but it is very brittle, and conse- “L’Art du Menuisier Ebeniste:” Englishman Charles Holtzapffel wrote: quently diffi cult to get in large and even pieces; These stones come from the Levant; the best There are three qualities of Turkey Stone, a this quality of stone is shipped principally to are those which are of fair color, of a tight grain, dark blue to black variety and a lighter blue grey France. plain and very uniform: this stone has the defect stone, both of which go to London … the third When present in period estate inventories, to have small whitish veins, either in length, or in grindstones and whetstones were highly val- thickness, which are as many hard spots which by Adam Cherubini ued. Oilstones in the Charles Plumley inven- prevent it to sharpen well … these stones are Adam makes reproduction furniture using the tools tory (available at popularwoodworking.com not [of] a very great size, and besides that they and techniques of the 18th century. You can contact under Magazine Extras) were given a similar are fragile. him at [email protected]. value to his handsaws, which were several

34 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 times the value of a smoothing plane. Plum- Grindstone is, the hollower it will be. ley’s grindstone rivaled his plow plane and his Later he talks about using a fl at rubstone prized “yellow jaunders” jointer plane as the to grind: most expensive tool in the shop. It is not at And this they do so often, till they have rubbed all clear that period craftsmen had (or could the hollowness of the Basil to a fl at, and then they afford) a range of whetstones of varying grits grind it again upon the round Grind-stone. from which to choose. Rather, it seems that Roubo felt it was important to hone with workmen were lucky to have a grindstone and oil and keep the stone clean: one good whetstone – unless of course the Oil is useful to sharpen tools on these stones, workman happened to be French. Formerly a rustic garden ornament, this stone and it is good that they are always saturated, and appears to be rather primitively made and prob- that they are always very clean, because the dust Technique ably dates to the mid 19th century. Though incon- which sticks forms to it a grease which spoils them, Between Roubo and Joseph Moxon, whose sistent and diffi cult to work with, it has not been and prevent tools to take an edge. “Mechanick Exercises” was the fi rst English damaged by sitting in water. The other side of it book on woodworking, we have a pretty good is painted brown, no doubt a decorative touch. Grinding Oddly enough the paint may have preserved it. picture of how things were sharpened in the Operating my grindstone was surprisingly 18th century. And that’s important because effortless. But the wheel was out of round, we shouldn’t assume they did things the way ter, and higher bevels strengthened the edge. nearly impossible to fi x and it wobbled from we do. But I was actually surprised by how Moxon was also a fan of hollow grinding. This side to side. No tool rest worked, so all my similar their methods were to ours. See if any seems a sophisticated approach for 1687: grinding was freehand. Wet grinding, though of this sounds familiar: When you lift the Iron off the stone, to see if it messy, was nice because I could grind without According to both authors, the basic pro- be ground to your Mind; if it be not, you must be risking the temper of my precious steel. The cess was to shape the edge with a grinder or sure you place the Iron again in the same position sandstone wheel is a slow-cutting abrasive but coarse rubstone, then hone the edge until on the Stone it had before; for else you will make a seems to cut better when soaking wet. Still, smooth. Moxon recommended 12° bevels for double basil (bevel) on your Iron: But if it be true a dull 1⁄2" chisel took at least 20 minutes to plane irons that work softwoods, 18°-20° for set on the Stone, and steddily kept to that Position, grind. Sandstone left a surprisingly smooth hardwoods. He believed lower bevels cut bet- your Basil will be Hollow, and the smaller your edge. Theoretically, my 20"-diameter wheel ” e t s i n e b E r e i s i u n e M u d t r A ’ L “ s ’ o b u o R m o r f g n i w a r D Roubo’sRoubo’s grindstonegrindstone hashas severalseveral advantageousadvantageous featuresfeatures onlyonly recentlyrecently avail-avail- WhenWhen I builtbuilt mymy version,version, I skippedskipped thethe tooltool rest.rest. MyMy wheelwheel wobbleswobbles fromfrom able to us. It features an integrated tool rest, water cooling, low speed yet side to side and is out of round about 1⁄4". My biggest concern, the effort plenty of cutting power via its high inertia, and a large-diameter wheel to required to turn the wheel at a usable speed, quickly became the least of my produce a nice shallow hollow grind. The wide face of the wheel allows a nice worries. This wheel easily spins at 120 rpm and will coast for over a minute! straight edge to be ground without moving the tool whatsoever. Fantastic … I was shocked. The brown half-bearing is lignum vitae. until you actually try using it.

popularwoodworking.com 35 ARTS & MYSTERIES

should produce a little less than .003" of hollow in a 1⁄4"-thick plane iron ground at 30°. I never saw any hollow on any tool I ground on it. My tools came off the grinder smoother than I thought they’d be, with fl at or slightly convex bevels. Rounded Honing secondary bevel After the grinder, I took my tools to one of the many whetstones I used for this project. None was perfectly fl at, but that didn’t seem to matter for the beveled side. All of the plane irons I sharpened were cambered and the chisels were too narrow to care about a little dish in Sandstone leaves a surprisingly fi ne edge. It’s Not a great looking edge, is it? It’s a bit like the the stone. But I quickly realized that none of easy to see the secondary bevel I honed with a opposite of a Japanese chisel. This chisel had these old whetstones was coarse enough, or whetstone in this picture. The edge and entire a fl at back nine months ago. The dished whet- cut fast enough to refi ne the ground bevel. I breadth of the bezel is curved – a result of the stones I’ve been using are slowly wearing away shallow groove in my grindstone. the edges. When that dubbed edge is polished it couldn’t practically remove the camber in will cut well, though. the bevel. Without the ability to hollow grind, and without the ability to fix the grind with a 1) Our modern sharpening technique is 3) Based on this experiment, I’m no lon- whetstone, period craftsmen probably had based on good abrasives. We use essentially ger confident that my old tools sharpened no choice but to grind low and hone a sec- 21st-century abrasives on 18th-century met- with modern equipment are as representa- ondary bevel (as I did). Maybe this explains als. When our metals catch up to our abrasives tive of tools sharpened in the 18th century as Moxon’s low angles. (CPM-3V is one possible example of a very I thought. This has caused me to reconsider The dished whetstones presented ever- diffi cult modern metal to sharpen) we may the ease with which 18th-century craftsmen increasing problems with my tools’ backs. I need to revisit this article. surfaced stock for example. Smooth surfaces tried to do as little as possible to the backs, 2) The shapes we hone may have more to in diffi cult woods may have required special but creating some amount of back bevel was do with sharpening than using. A fl at back attention. Either the craftsmen needed to inevitable. I have seen many old tools with and hollow grind (the way I shape my edges) spend extra time on his blades, or scraping or this sort of sharpening (and have lapped out certainly isn’t necessary for use. sanding (gulp) may have been required. PW many such problems). In use, I found no disad- vantage in this sort of edge. The big advantage of fl at-backed tools seems to have more to do with sharpening them than using them. PERIOD STEEL The type of steel used would certainly Conclusions affect one’s sharpening experience. It is my Despite a few problems with crumbling edges understanding that 18th-century craftsmen (possibly caused by insuffi cient polishing), I could have worked with a wide variety of had little trouble with the tools I sharpened metals including relatively soft, case-hard- using the old gear. In general, they felt like ened wrought iron, inconsistent cementation (a.k.a. blister) steel and cast steel. The tools I had sharpened on modern equipment latter two were often laminated to soft and used for a few days. Not at their peak, wrought iron (to save the cost of steel). Both but OK. I think it’s generally true that period were capable of achieving high hardness craftsmen had tool steels every bit as hard as (Rc 65), though it’s unclear such a hardness our own, but lacked the abrasives to hone was desired or achieved. I found laminated term refers to the method of manufacture them as we do today. As a result, I suspect blades much easier to grind. All of the tools of the steel itself. Iron was melted in clay they worked with tools that were not quite as I used during this project were “cast” steel. crucibles, cementation steel was added sharp as ours and had edges that resembled a “Cast steel” was not developed until mid- and the molten metal was cast into ingots. double-beveled knife. century and its widespread use is question- While cast steel was a signifi cant improve- Not all of these experiments have value able after that. But, we know cast steel was ment over earlier blister steel in terms of its to modern woodworkers. Perhaps this one commonly available in a wide array of edge consistency (specifi cally carbon content), it’s tools by the century’s end. Cast steel is not not at all clear that it presented a signifi cant fi ts into that category. But I guess if pushed I cast iron, nor is the tool cast. Rather, the difference in sharpening. — AC could say a few things that may help:

36 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 I CAN DO THAT Magazine Rack

Two bits of wood and a jigsaw are what you need to make this magazine rack that converts to a bookstand.

ecause you’re holding this magazine, Gather Your Materials Make a Simple Jig Bchances are you could use a magazine As with all “I Can Do That” projects, we buy This project requires you to set the base of your rack by your favorite chair to hold your cur- all our materials from the local home center. jigsaw at 35° to the blade, sometimes tilted left rent crop of periodicals and catalogs. So with a construction drawing in hand I hit and sometimes tilted right. To make these AndAnd becausebecause youyou likelike magazines,magazines, I suspectsuspect thethe llumberumber ssection.ection. I wwasn’tasn’t hhappyappy wwithith tthehe changeschanges quicklyquickly aandnd rreliably,eliably, I mmadeade a llittleittle jigjig that you also like books, and you might have No. 2 pine in the racks. The poplar was an from a scrap. You don’t have to make the jig for need for a stand to hold open your favorite uninspiring purple. But there were a couple this project, but it sure makes life easy. reference book – whether that’s a dictionary, promising red oak 1 x 12s. These were expen- My blade-setting jig was made from a scrap “Baking Illustrated” or “Tage Frid Teaches sive: $40 for a 6' length. But that was enough piece of 3⁄4"-thick plywood that was about 3" Woodworking.” to make two racks, so I pulled the trigger. wide and 12" long. I cut one end at 90° on my If you’re nodding your head in agreement to either of the above statements, we have one project that can scratch both itches. This simple project has only two parts and they inter- lock: Slide them together one way and they make a magazine rack; slide them together the other way and they make a bookstand. And here’s the best part: You need only a handful of tools to make this project. Plus, it’s a quick job; I built the version shown here in just a couple hours. It’s the perfect “I Can Do That” project. by Christopher Schwarz Comments or questions? You can reach Chris at 513-531-2690 ext.1 407 or [email protected]. h s i r r a P

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38 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 miter saw. Then I set the saw to make a 35° miter and cut off about 3" of the plywood. The piece that falls off is the jig for setting the blade. By placing the jig on the saw’s base you can tilt the base to 35° left and right quickly. And you can use the square edge of the jig to return the saw’s blade to 90°.

Make Your Straight Cuts Use the drawing to lay out all your cuts. Then, with the blade set at 90°, make the cuts that deﬁ ne the two feet on one piece and the single foot on the other piece. Then make the square-shaped cutouts on each piece. Here’s how: Drill a couple 3⁄8"- This scrap of wood acts as a reliable way to set diameter holes near the corners of the square- your jigsaw’s base to 35°. I found a protractor shaped cutout. Then use your jigsaw to remove difﬁ cult to balance on the base and not nearly as accurate. the waste and square up the corners.

Make Your Bevel Cuts waste hanging onto your work that needs to Tilt the jigsaw’s base to 35° left and make all be removed with a coping saw. It’s simple work. You can rotate the blade in its frame with a coping saw to make a tricky cut like this very easy. the cuts you can with the blade tilted this If you don’t have a coping saw, use a chisel and direction. Then tilt the blade the other direc- a mallet to pop out the waste. tion and make the remainder of the cuts on Clean up all your cuts with a rasp, fi le and – you might have to adjust a few edges with a the two pieces. In the end you’ll have some sandpaper. Then fi t the two parts together rasp to get a good fi t. If the part with the single leg is just a little too thick to fi t through the slot in the other, reduce the thickness of the �� single leg with your block plane until every- �� thing fi ts. Sand all your parts and add a clear fi nish (or stain or paint). �� In our offi ce, we have far too many magazines for this project to be useful to us. So we’re going to use it as a stand for our offi ce �� dictionary, which settles our debates on word �� usage. But if we ever need a magazine stand, it’s just a fl ip of the pieces away. PW �� ABOUT THIS COLUMN � � �� Our “I Can Do That” column features projects that can be completed by any woodworker with a modest (but decent) kit of tools in less than two days of shop time, �� and using raw materials that are available � �� at any home center. We offer a free online � manual in PDF format that explains all the Elevation tools and shows you how to perform the basic operations in a step-by-step format. You’ll learn to rip with a jigsaw, crosscut MAGAZINE RACK with a miter saw and drill straight with the NO. ITEM DIMENSIONS (INCHES) MATERIAL help of our manual. T W L To download the free manual, visit ICanDoThatExtras.com. ❏ 2 Interlocking slabs 3⁄4 111⁄4" 16 Red oak

popularwoodworking.com 39 Photo by Al Parrish 40 POPULAR WOODWORKING Month 2006 14" Steel Frame BAND SAWS

ouou mightmight bebe askingasking your-your- repeated the resaw test using self,self, “Why“Why aarere ttheyhey ttest-est- They’re all the rage. 11"-wide oak boards. In all the Yinging suchsuch a specificspecific sawsaw But are they ready to resaw? resawing tests we used identical category?” Good question. The 3⁄4"-wide, three-teeth-per-inch general consensus is that steel- blades from Grizzly Industrial. framed saws are more rigid than As an aside, the blade lengths traditional cast-iron saws and wired for 220-volt (v) power, while fl exed by loading the front right required on all of these machines allow more tension to be loaded others can be converted to 220v corner of the table with a 25- are not standard and in some cases on the blade. There are cast-iron or 110v modes. The motor sizes pound weight and measured how may require custom-made blades, saws that can stand the tension, varied, and other features (includ- much the tables sagged. especially if you’re looking for a but they usually are of a much ing single or dual speeds) helped to We then resawed 7"-wide oak particular tooth design. older design or larger throat capac- differentiate the machines. boards (removing 1⁄4"-thick slabs) ity. High tension is a good thing to test motor performance of each Features: Lean or Loaded? when you’re using your band saw Tables: Firm or Flexible? saw. For the machines capable of We also looked closely at the fea- for resawing. The tension offers a To test the machines we first wider resaw capacity (the Rikon tures offered by each machine. A cleaner, straighter cut – important checked the amount each table and Laguna machines) we also stable base was considered a good for waste reduction when working thing (with little assembly required with expensive lumber. by David Thiel even better). If the base included We anticipated that all of Comments or questions? Contact David at 513-531-2690 ext. 1255 storage, that was also an asset. these band saws would be good or [email protected]. We also examined the different machines for general curves and blade-guide designs and offered joinery work – and they are. Our our opinions of the variations in greater question was whether the individual comment sections. these steel-frame 14" band saws Table size and design, as well as actually lived up to the potential trunnion design were also con- of operating as resawing machines sidered. Larger is better, but not as – or whether they just looked cool. important as stability. While we And that’s why we decided to put noticed signifi cant differences in them to the test. table stability, all of the machines Our experience is that a good The trunnions on the Craftsman saw The General (and Grizzly) trunnions passed our 25-pound weight test resawing machine will have an are cast aluminum and are adequate are cast aluminum in a different and should be adequate for the adequately sized motor to match to the task, but could provide better confi guration than the Craftsman. weight load during basic resawing. the resaw capacity of the saw. It balanced support to the table and They provide more even support, but Ease of use when changing blades smoother adjustment. could be larger. should be able to handle at least a was another consideration, as well 3⁄4"-wide blade, and have a resaw as overall ease of use in general capacity (the space between operation. the table and the upper blade In the end, we were able to guide) very close to 8". We also identify two machines worthy of want the table size and support praise. The feature-laden Crafts- structure (the trunnion design) man saw performed well at a very to adequately support a board of good price, earning our Best Value conventional resawing size. award. A redesigned Rikon saw The Laguna trunnions are large The Rikon trunnions are stamped Our test includes six machines surprised us in a very positive way, and of cast iron providing excellent steel and do a decent job of support that vary in resaw capacity from stability and balance to the table. and balance. The rack-and-pinion offering features and performance 7" to 13" and range in price from The other manufacturers can learn design adds smooth table adjust- superior to even the much higher- $479 to $1,195. Some saws are pre- something from this design. ment and is a nice feature. priced Laguna machine.

popularwoodworking.com 41 CRAFTSMAN GENERAL GRIZZLY 22401 90-100 G0457

The Craftsman saw has the lowest sticker The General International saw is solid but The Grizzly is a good saw and performed price in the test, but it performed well and has basic. It suffers because of a lack of features, well in the test. While we’ve come to expect nice features. some design issues and only adequate perfor- Grizzly products to provide good service at a From the bottom up, the base is sturdy mance for the $700 price. bargain price, this saw is priced competitively and has storage, but the saw has lots of Positive features include the pre-assembled – but isn’t what we’d call a bargain. The base pieces to assemble, including the worklight. base that includes storage and a quick-release arrives assembled (which I learned to appreci- Features that caught our eye on this saw mechanism for the blade tension at the top of ate) and offers storage and a solid design. include ball-bearing guides that place the the saw. It is a simple cam-action lever, and to One annoyance was the diffi cult task of edge of the thrust bearing, rather than the increase or decrease tension slightly, the lever mounting the motor (only one of two saws fl at of the bearing, against the blade. This can be rotated under pressure. This is actually requiring motor assembly). Also, the motor is is a superior design and allows much better easier than trying to turn a big knob. not pre-wired and doesn’t come with a plug. support for the blade. The Craftsman also One immediate concern we had is that the That’s OK if you’re unsure of your preferred includes a side window in the upper case for fence design makes it impossible to remove voltage, but it does offer one more hurdle to adjusting the blade tracking without opening or remount the fence without fi rst removing jump before you’re able to cut wood. the case door. The ease of changing the blade the blade. Plus, the saw lacks a visual tension During the resaw test the Grizzly per- was decent, with a front slot in the table gauge, so you’re pretty much setting up the formed well, with no-bog down during the making it easier to remove the blade. You blade tension by feel. cut. We found the Grizzly to be a stable saw are required to remove the fence-mounting While most of the saws in the test include overall, but we found heavy vibration in the bar, but this is fairly simple to do and doesn’t thumbscrews or knurled knobs to assist table. During our fl ex test we found the Griz- require tools. All three of these useful fea- with adjusting the blade guides, the General zly’s table gave 3⁄6464", which was comparable tures are also found only on the pricier $749 requires a hex wrench for those adjustments. with most of the saws in the test, but when Rikon saw in this test. The Craftsman also We also had issues with the upper guide grasping the table and wobbling it, there was offers a unique belt-tensioning device for the arm when it’s raised to its full height (for much more movement. motor pulleys that ought to be standard on maximum resaw capacity). At the highest It’s our suggestion that the trunnions on every saw. point, the thrust bearing hits the upper wheel this machine (and the way they are supported In use we found the motor had plenty of housing, binding the bearing, which can lead by the saw’s frame) could be beefed up, power for resawing, but the fence required to serious problems. Power during the resaw improving the performance and eradicating some complicated shimming to square it to test was adequate, but not impressive. With a what was really the only real disappointment the table. We also wish the table could tilt in slow, continuous feed, resawing was success- with the performance of this saw. more than just one direction. ful. We expected and hoped for more from Overall, this saw is a good bargain for the General. price and earns our Best Value award. ■ 800-549-4505 or craftsman.com ■ 514-326-1161 or general.ca ■ 800-523-4777 or grizzly.com

42 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 LAGUNA RIKON YORKCRAFT LT14SE 10-325 YC-14WBS

We’ve come to expect a lot from Laguna (a This is a brand-new version of the 14" saw The Yorkcraft comes with a decent fi ve-piece larger Laguna is a mainstay in our shop); from Rikon and the designers have done a base that is quick to assemble, but offers no maybe we’re expecting too much. The LT14SE great job on the upgrades. The saw includes a storage. The saw uses decent bearing guides was designed as a smaller version of larger stable base (assembly required), a worklight, that are easily adjustable with thumbscrews. Laguna machines, with the intention of and windows in the side of the upper case (for We found the visibility diffi cult when adjust- retaining capacity and performance. To be adjusting blade tracking ) and in the front to ing the lower guides because of the position sure, the capacity is there, but the perfor- view the tension gauge. of the trunnions and trunnion handles. mance fell short of what we expected. Rikon (along with Craftsman) uses a supe- While running the Yorkcraft during testing During the 7"-board test the saw did rior edge-bearing thrust-guide design. The we found it had good power for resawing, but OK, but started to slow in the cut. When we guides are pretty easy to adjust, but different we also experienced the most vibration of all stepped up to the 11" board we were able to enough in design that there is a learning the saws tested. The vibration was not just in stall the machine. For $1,200 we were a bit curve. Another shared feature with Crafts- the table but throughout the entire machine. disappointed. man is the user-friendly front-of-table slot for Our supposition is that the clever base design There were also ease-of-use issues that blade changing. actually provides much less stability than surprised us. To change the blade, upper A unique feature on the Rikon saw is a the other bases in the test, exacerbating the and lower blade guards need to be removed rack-and-pinion table adjustment that feels vibration issue. entirely from the saw (requiring a wrench). better, though in reality functions about This saw required the motor be installed The throat insert is a mix of good and awk- the same as the usual gravity adjustment. after delivery (as with the Grizzly), but we ward. Alignment screws allow it to be leveled Because the saw is pre-wired for 220-volt found the process easier on this machine fl ush to the table, but a spring clip mounted power (which is good for performance in our because the motor installs on the base, not below the plate (to hold it tight to the table) opinion), it does cause a slight power issue. on the lower wheel housing. One person can makes you fumble awkwardly under the table The included light is a 110v fi xture, so you’ll handle the task on the Yorkcraft, while the to release the clip. need to run both 110v and 220v power to the Grizzly requires a friend. The included fence The ceramic guides are unique and of saw (or rewire). was adequate to the task and adjustable for Laguna’s own design. They do a nice job of In testing, this saw was impressive. It drift, but not remarkable. While the overall guiding the blade, but adjusting the side moved through the 7" oak without a problem performance of this saw was good (but for guides required fi nesse (balancing the spac- or a hesitation. Even more impressive was vibration) and the price is also good, when ing) that seems more complicated than that the performance in the 11" oak was just compared to the features, performance and necessary. The table height (measured from as smooth. This saw’s performance beat out price of the Craftsman, it fell short. the fl oor) is the highest in the test and when that of the Laguna. That earned our respect the mobile base is added (a little tippy and an – and our Editor’s Choice award. extra expense), it’s a little too tall for comfort. ■ 800-234-1976 or lagunatools.com ■ 781-933-8400 or rikontools.com ■ 800-235-2100 or wilkemachinery.com

popularwoodworking.com 43 14" STEEL-FRAME BAND SAWS

Craftsman General Grizzly Laguna Rikon Yorkcraft 22401 90-100 G0457 LT14SE 10-325 YC-14WBS Price* $479 $700 $775 $1,290 ** $749 $499 Amps 11/5.5 11/5.5 20/10 20 7 14/7 Pre-wired voltage 120v 115v 220v 220v 220v 110v Speed (fpm) 1,620/3,340 2,300/3,250 3,000 3,350 1,445/2,950 3,177 Tension quick-release No Yes Yes No Yes Yes Blade length 993⁄4" 101" 106" 112" 111" 1007⁄8" Blade range 1⁄8" to 3⁄4" 1⁄8" to 3⁄4" 1⁄8" to 3⁄4" 1⁄1616" to 1" 1⁄8" to 3⁄4" 1⁄8" to 3⁄4" Rack & pinion guide Yes No Yes No Yes Yes Throat depth 135⁄8" 133⁄4" 131⁄2" 131⁄4" 135⁄8" 133⁄8" Resaw capacity 8" 7" 10" 12" 13" 8" Table size 203⁄8" x 153⁄4" 14" x 14" 193⁄4" x 143⁄1616" 15" x 15" 153⁄4" x 211⁄2" 14" x 14" Table height 433⁄4" 43" 421⁄4" 44" 391⁄8" 413⁄4" Table material Cast iron Cast iron Cast iron Cast iron Cast iron Cast iron Table tilt 0° to 45° -10° to 45° -8° to 45° -15° to 45° -10° to 45° -10° to 45° Table ﬂ ex 3⁄6464" 3⁄6464" 3⁄6464" 1⁄6464" 1⁄1616" 3⁄6464" Wheel material Cast iron Aluminum Cast iron Cast iron Cast iron Aluminum Dust port(s) 21⁄2" & 4" 21⁄2" 4" 4" 4" 4" Weight (lbs) 241 210 251 242 251 215 *Prices from Amazon.com when available. ** Includes optional mobile base.

A FEW GUIDING PRINCIPLES

The thrust bearing’s edge is against the The thrust blade bearing’s ﬂ at face is against the blade

Side guides

Above are the guides on the Grizzly band saw. Above are the guides from the Rikon band saw. The guides on the Laguna (above) are unique in They are the traditional bearing style, with the As are the guides on the Grizzly, they are all of the test. They use ceramic blocks to guide the side guides positioned on both sides of the blade bearing design. The side guides in this case are blade both at the sides and at the rear. Ceramic to keep the blade from moving left or right dur- single guides, which will be fi ne, but the double guides are a good guide material as they pull ing the cut. The Grizzly’s side guides are actually bearings on the Grizzly will provide better support heat away from the blade and extend the life of two pairs of guides (four guides total) that give for wider blades. The thrust bearing on this saw is the blade. One drawback is that they will wear broader support for wider blades. The thrust mounted so the rear of the blade rides on the edge and will have to be adjusted more often than bearing (behind the blade) is also a bearing, but of the bearing, using the bearing in the way it’s bearing-style guides. While there are other the blade pushes against the fl at of the bearing. designed. This will actually allow the blade to ride ceramic block guides on the market, this confi g- This design has worked for many years, but the against the bearing for excellent support. uration is designed specifi cally for Laguna saws. guide at right is a more effi cient thrust design. PW — DT

44 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 WOODWORKING ESSENTIALS BY BILL STANKUS

CHAPTER Setting Up Shop: 2 Lighting & Power hen the workshop has proper any necessary inspections. Require- lighting, suffi cient electrical ments, regulations and amended ver- Wpower and plenty of outlets it is sions of the National Electrical Code a safer and better work environment. (NEC) vary from area to area. It is Whether you are building a new very important to follow the codes and free-standing shop or adapting a garage guidelines established for your area. or basement for your woodshop, deter- The local utility agencies mining a plan for your electrical needs can assist in the location is one of the most important steps. of underground cables and Here is where to begin. will recommend the correct approach to any electrical- Evaluate Your Electrical Needs service upgrades. Find a Check the electrical service panel and recommended licensed circuit breakers to the workshop loca- electrical contractor. Often, tion and note the breakers’ amp values. it’s less time-consuming, If there’s only one 15- or 20-amp circuit more economical and safer for the workshop or if the service to to have an expert install your home is 100 amps (or less), then new wiring, electrical ser- the service will need upgrading. vice panels or other custom How you upgrade or install ade- work than to try it yourself. quate electrical service for a workshop location is dependent on whether Safety Rules you’re remodeling or building a new Upgrading a workshop room. Installing wiring and outlets in generally consists of infor- a new construction is fairly straightfor- mation, common sense, ward compared to remodeling. proper tools and supplies. To safely complete an electrical upgrade Warnings About Electricity requires knowing the machinery and Never attempt electrical work if you tool electrical requirements, code- have doubts about the wiring layout or compliant installation of outlets, use the consequences of your effort. Start of the proper types and sizes of cables, with your local building departments outlets, etc. If you have any reserva- (usually city and county) and the util- tions about any of these points, call an ity company. Building departments electrical contractor. have electrical inspectors who can Never work on a live circuit. One example of explain local codes and requirements Always disconnect the circuit at the 120v/240v wiring for concerning permits for the work and service panel. That means switching a two-gang box. the circuit breaker to “off” or remov- Common Electrical Tools Continuity tester ing a screw-in fuse. Remember that the The following is a list of specialized electrical power is still live to the ser- tools that are typically used for electri- vice panel from the power utility lines cal work. Most are commonly available (either below or above ground), so even at a local home center. if you switch off the main power, the ■ Lineman’s pliers – Use to twist power is still live to the service. bare wires together and then cut the Be certain that the circuit is off by last 1⁄8" off so that the twisted wires fi t fi rst turning on a light that’s plugged into a wirenut. into that circuit. If it goes out when ■ Diagonal cutting pliers – For cut- the circuit is switched off, proceed with ting wire; fi ts in confi ned locations. your next steps. ■ Needlenose or snipe-nosed pliers Tell others that you are disconnect- – For working small parts in confi ned ing a circuit. This is important when locations. working at some distance from the ■ Wire strippers – Adjustable to dif- service panel. Tape a note to the service ferent wire gauges for removing insula- panel warning others that you are work- tion. ing on the service. ■ Multipurpose wire tool – Com- MultitesterMultitester Never work on the service panel or bines wire stripper, wire cutter, crimper wiring when there are wet spots, moist and bolt cutter. conditions or standing water. Dry the ■ Insulated screwdrivers – coated ■ Cable ripper – For slitting cable area as much as possible. Open windows with insulation, except for blade tip. sheathing. and doors to aid in drying damp base- ■ Conduit bender – Use to bend ■ Electronic metal and voltage ments. If there is moisture on the fl oor, metal conduit. detector – Use to locate metal objects construct a platform of dry boards over ■ Fish tape – Thin metal line for and detect AC voltages within a wall. the wet areas. pulling cable through enclosed areas. ■ Continuity tester – Use to determine if an electrical path is complete. Simple to use when checking fuses, At right is a typical switches and plugs. Only use when the subpanel installed power is off! above the main circuit ■ Voltage tester – Use to determine breaker panel. Below if power is present. It is used with the the main panel is a Gen/Tran unit – used for connecting a portable generator to the main panel in the event of a power outage.

This subpanel cover is removed for a better look at the breaker switches and wiring.

POPULAR WOODWORKING sheathing. In the United States the based upon the American Wire Gauge colors of the individual wires are: black (AWG) system. Gauge numbers are or red is the power, or hot wire; white or inverse to their size; that is, the smaller gray is the neutral; and green (or green the number, the larger the wire diam- with a yellow stripe) is the ground wire. eter. The maximum current that a wire Sometimes the ground wire is a single Voltage tester uninsulated copper wire. Wire Size and Type Typical Tool Amperage Draw Use the correct wire size and type when 10" Cabinet saw 8.3 @ 240v upgrading an electrical system. Local 10" Contractor saw 12.8 codes will specify the types of cable and 1⁄ cable conduits permitted in your area. 14" Band saw ( 2 hp) 9 Here are the common wire types: 10" Radial-arm saw 11 CircuitCircuit aanalyzernalyzer ■ Type NM (nonmetallic), has 12" Miter saw 13 thermoplastic insulation and is capable 6" Jointer 9.5 of withstanding a wide range of tem- 12" Planer 15 power on. The probes are touched to peratures. It’s used for most household a hot line and the ground, causing the circuits. Drill press 6 indicator to light. Also for checking ■ Type UF (underground feed) is Edge sander 8.4 @ 240v DC/AC voltage, outlets, motors, appli- waterproof and is used for damp and 2-hp Shaper 16 ances and fuses. outdoor locations. 3⁄4 ■ 12" Lathe ( hp) 11.4 ■ Volt-ohmmeter, or multitester Type USE (underground service – Use to test a variety of conditions, entrance) is used for underground or Scroll saw 1.3 including voltage, low-voltage current, overhead service entrance and direct Dust collector (2 bag) 16 resistance to ohms and continuity. Also burial to garages and workshops. Dust collector (4 bag) 17 @ 240v ■ Type THW is used for outdoor for checking outlets, fuses, wires, plugs, 20-gal. Shop vacuum 10.5 motors and electronic circuits. hanging or indoor conduit as service- 31⁄2-hp Air compressor 15 ■ Circuit analyzers – Use to deter- entrance cables and for conduit to a mine if there is power to a receptacle, subpanel. Router, 1 hp 6.8 proper grounding or if the wiring is Of the above types, NM cable is the Router, 3 hp 15 most common plastic-sheathed cable. correct. There are more sophisticated Belt sander 10.5 circuit analyzers that can check from It’s often referred to as Romex, a trade the receptacle back to the service panel name. The sheath is usually moisture- Plate joiner 6.5 for voltage drops or for current leaks. resistant and fl ame-retardant. Normally, Random-orbit sander 1.7 there are insulated power wires and a Spindle sander 3.5 Electrical Supplies bare ground wire inside of the sheath. 3⁄ Be certain that the electrical supplies Armored cable, also referred to by 8" Drill 4 you select are approved or meet local the trade name BX cable, has an outer Bench grinder 6 building codes. If you aren’t sure about armored layer, usually fl exible galva- Strip sander 2.6 this, then it would be best to consult nized steel, that often contains two or Jigsaw 4.8 certifi ed experts. There are too many three wires wrapped in paper. choices – guessing which part or wire Conduit is usually either galvanized Circular saw 13 size to use is the wrong approach. steel or plastic pipe. It’s generally avail- For tools not included on this list, the The term “wire” typically refers to able in 1⁄2", 3⁄4", 1" and 11⁄4" diam- National Electrical Code sets minimum a single strand of conductive metal eters. The correct size to use in your amperage capacities: enclosed with insulation. woodshop depends on the diameter and ■ Small appliances – 20 amperes The term “cord” is used to refer to number of wires inside the conduit. stranded wires protected by insulation. ■ General lighting – 15 or 20 amperes It can consist of two or three stranded Wire Size ■ Stationary tools – multiply the machine’s wires within the insulation and is used Wire size is extremely important when amperage by 125%. (A 15-amp planer will for appliances, lamps, etc. upgrading an electrical system. Stan- require 1.25 x 15 = 18.75, or a 20-amp “Cable” has two or more color-coded dard reference numbers, usually printed circuit.) insulated wires that are protected by on the outside of wire insulation, are

popularwoodworking.com Common copper house wire electrical systems is that it’s often easier is fi rst switched on. For example, a 12" to install separate outlets on sepa- planer rated at 15 amps (1.25 X 15 = and its ampere ratings rate circuits than to have one circuit 18.75) will require a 20-amp circuit. No. 18 7 amperes with multiple outlets. For example, in No. 16 10 amperes my woodshop I have three machines Outlets, Switches and Plugs No. 14 15 amperes requiring 220v service: the table saw, Until the day comes that we can No. 12 20 amperes jointer/planer and band saw. Rarely, if use tools powered by wireless elec- No. 10 30 amperes ever, are two machines running at the tricty, woodshops will need outlets No. 8 40 amperes same time. So it’s possible for the three and switches. When designing a new No. 6 55 amperes machines to have their outlets wired to electrical layout, placement of outlets the same circuit. and switches requires planning, guess- However, these machines are located work and a bit of luck. The reality of can safely manage is stated in amperes in different areas of the woodshop and woodshops is that work projects, new (amps). Wire diameter and the amount it was much easier to install outlets at machines, relocation of cabinets, stacks of amperes are directly related. Smaller- each of the machine locations and route of lumber and other fl uctuating events diameter wires have greater resistance wires through one or more conduits. will block existing outlets and switches to electrical current fl ow; consequently, Since there was adequate space in the from access. Often, well-thought-out as the current fl ow increases so do fric- subpanel, it was a straightforward addition and heat. tion of circuit breakers and wire. The exception to this is the dust collector, Calculating Electrical Usage which is also 220v. Because it’s operated in the Workshop simultaneously with each of the stationary machines, there was no choice – it When electrical circuits or subpanels required its own circuit. are added to an electrical service, the The National Electrical Code sets total load must not exceed the service minimum capacities for circuits regard- rating. Generally, older homes have ing use and amperage: 100-amp service and newer homes have ■ Small appliances – 20 amperes 200-amp service. If you are not certain ■ General lighting – 15 or 20 about the service, look at the main amperes circuit breaker in the service panel. If ■ Stationary tools – multiply the you have 100-amp service, consult with machine’s amperage by 125 percent. both the utility company and a licensed The 125 percent factors the electri- On the left are 120v, 20-amp receptacles; on electrician regarding upgrading to a cal surge that occurs when a machine the right, 240v, 20-amp receptacles. 200-amp service. The woodshop is probably going to have machines and power tools, unless, Installing outlets near of course, you’re taken with the joy of your tools is not only working only with hand tools. Gener- more convenient, ally, home woodshops will have one it’s safer, too. If, for woodworker using no more than two example, the plug machines at one time (table saw and is located near your router table, you’re dust collector, drill press and vacuum). more likely to discon- The advantage of this is that the elec- nect it when changing trical system isn’t going to need to sup- the router bit, which port the simultaneous operation of all is the safest way to the woodshop’s machinery. As you plan work. the electrical layout of your shop, make a best guess as to the frequency of use of tools and machines. Not only will this aid in determining circuit requirements, but it will also aid in planning the placement of outlets. The reality of upgrading woodshop

POPULAR WOODWORKING locations aren’t that handy once the Outlets generally in bathrooms and outdoor woodshop is actually used. The ideal sit- There are four acceptable plugs for locations where someone may have wet uation is never having to use extension home woodshop use: hands and feet. Install GFI units outlets cords because you have outlets wherever ■ Grounded three-prong, 120v, 15 amp in damp basements or around sinks. you work. This can be accomplished ■ Grounded three-prong, 120v, 20 amp simply by locating outlets 3' to 5' apart ■ Ground fault circuit interrupter, 120v, Switches throughout the woodshop, includ- 15 amp and 20 amp There are four basic types of switches: ing the ceiling. This may seem exces- ■ Grounded three-prong 220v/240v ■ Single-pole switches have two sive, but it’s not. There are too many Ungrounded two-prong, 120v recep- terminals: one for the incoming hot work conditions that occur away from tacles are unacceptable in workshops. If wire and one for the outgoing hot wire. the workbench area: Using a vacuum, an existing workshop has ungrounded The switch toggle is imprinted with sander, plate joiner, rotary carving tool two-prong outlets, turn off the main ON/OFF. or heat gun are but a few of the applica- power and replace them with grounded ■ Double-pole switches have four tions possible. outlets. If there isn’t a ground wire to terminals and are used primarily for If the workshop area is a new con- the outlet, attach one from the outlet to 240v circuits. The switch toggle is struction, cables should be installed the receptacle box or the nearest cold imprinted with ON/OFF. within the wall framework. If wall water pipe. Check that the ground is ■ Three-way switches have three coverings are already in place, outlets functional by using a ground tester. To terminals. One terminal is labeled can be installed on the outside of the accommodate most tools, use grounded COM (common), and the hot wire is wall. Always check your local electrical three-prong 20-amp outlets. connected to this terminal; the other codes concerning external installations. Ground fault circuit interrupter two terminals are switch leads. Two External conduit adds ﬂ exibility to outlets (GFI) are designed to protect you three-way switches are used to control designing and locating outlets because from shock. GFI outlets monitor cur- a circuit from two different locations. conduit can be routed just about any- rent; if the incoming and outgoing cur- The toggle has no ON/OFF imprint. where. Metal conduit pipe can be bent rents aren’t the same, the GFI instantly ■ Four-way switches have four ter- to a variety of shapes and angles and cuts off the electricity (in 1⁄4040 second). minals and are used with two three-way conduit pipe can be cut to length wher- A GFI outlet will trip if there is a ground switches to control a circuit from more ever necessary. fault of 0.005 amps. These outlets are than two locations. The toggle has no ON/OFF imprint. Switches are rated according to amperage and voltage, so choose the correct switch for compatibility with circuits, wire and outlets.

Plugs Despite the proliferation of battery- powered tools, there are still many tools and machines that have AC plugs. Usu-

In locations that need more direct and less diffused light, I have replaced fl uorescent lights with halogen track lighting. This type of light gives a brilliant white light, lasts about three times A dead-front plug has no exposed wires or longer and uses 65 percent less energy than a standard incandescent light. This particular halo- screws, and the prongs are surrounded by gen light requires a 50-watt refl ector bulb that is equivalent to the light of a standard 150-watt smooth plastic. Use this type to replace worn refl ector bulb. It has a built-in transformer that converts 120v to 12v. plugs on your equipment.

popularwoodworking.com Lighting Your Workshop Workshop Lighting Tips There are two types of lighting in most woodshops: fl uorescent and minimal ■ Use long life, reduced-wattage bulbs use of all other types. Fluorescent whenever possible. lighting fi xtures are probably used the ■ If color is important, use bulbs that most because they are inexpensive and approximate daylight (5,000 K). commonly available. Other lighting ■ Use zone lighting so that areas in fre- types are thought to be useful as house quent use will be well lit. lighting and not for woodshop lighting. While there is some truth to the ■ Paint walls, ceiling and other surfaces generalization that fl uorescent lights are light colors for maximum light refl ection. Polarized plugs, commonly found on smaller useful in the woodshop, it is my opinion ■ Place incandescent spot lamps at drill woodworking tools, have one prong with a wider tip so they fi t but one way into a socket. that their limitations are overlooked. press or band saw. Woodshop lighting is woefully ■ Put drop lights over workbench if you neglected in today’s woodworking. need spot lighting and less diffused lighting. ally these plugs receive quite a lot of use There’s a cornucopia of aftermarket and wear, often because of the neglect- improvements to almost everything ful act of pulling the cord and bending electric within the woodshop except seem to be designed specifi cally for the prongs. When plugs need replac- lighting. Lighting stores and hardware woodshops. Those that are tend to ing, replace worn plugs with dead-front stores usually have jumbled lighting be either sterile-looking white metal plugs. This type has no exposed wires or displays, making it nearly impossible to devices or cheap-looking clip-on refl ec- screws, and the prongs are surrounded view and judge lighting fi xtures one at tor hoods. This simply means that it’s by smooth plastic. If there are screws, a time. The one exception I’ve found is up to the woodworker to solve shop they are recessed and are only for secur- a General Electric display of different lighting questions through both per- ing the plug body together. fl uorescent lamps. This display is a set of sonal experience and research. Trial When attaching wires to a three- identical photographs, individually set and error may seem like a diffi cult path prong 120v plug, connect the black wire in a series of recessed boxes, each lit by to follow, but it does allow you to cus- to the brass terminal, the white wire to a different fl uorescent lamp. This dis- tomize your woodshop. the silver terminal and the green wire to play nicely reveals the color-rendering When evaluating lights and fi xtures, the green or gray terminal. differences of fl uorescent lamps. consider that there are several key ele- Polarized plugs have one prong with Unfortunately, few light fi xtures ments to using light: color, shadow, a wider tip. This type of plug is designed contrast and refl ection. These are the to fi t into an outlet in only one direc- products of lighting that we see in both tion. You’ll commonly encounter this dynamic and subtle ways. They give kind of plug on smaller appliances and usefulness, meaning and emotional woodworking tools. connection to woodworking. Many artists refer to the process of their work as “painting with light.” Woodwork- ers should also control and use light for both acceptable room lighting as well as artistic and aesthetic reasons. Good workshop lighting is more than having a shadow-free environment. Lighting should also assist in artistic and aesthetic evaluations of wood and the subsequent project. Color is perhaps the most subjec- A Regent 300-watt halogen shop light sus- tive and diffi cult aspect of light. Fixture pended above my table saw provides bright, shadow-free lighting at the saw blade. The location and light source will change housing is 36" in length and features diffused A single 50-watt halogen spot light on the color values. For example, an apple tempered lenses, safety screens and a pull- cieling augments the workshop’s fl uorescent in the glow of sunset will look differ- string on/off switch. This lamp augments the lighting and provides focused brightness at ent (warmer) than when it’s sitting on workshop’s fl uorescent lighting. the band saw blade. a workbench under fl uorescent lights

POPULAR WOODWORKING that needed for a 10 year old. tance between light and work area, the In some shops, work-area illumina- weaker the shadows. tion requires careful light placement so that the area is shadow-free. Generally, Types of Lamps it’s best to locate light fi xtures so that There are three main workshop types of light falls directly over a work area. If lights: tungsten-fi lament bulbs, halogen there are numerous fl uorescent lights lamps and fl uorescent lighting. throughout a work area, the diffuse light should limit shadowing. Flat light- Tungsten-fi lament Bulbs ing can be benefi cial to a cabinetmaker These come in clear, frosted or tinted wanting to see layout lines clearly. glass producing warm natural tones. However, fl at lighting isn’t as useful for Clear bulbs produce bright and more woodcarving. Lighting that is 45° to contrasting light. Frosted bulbs produce These fl uorescent bulbs are rated for 5,000 90° to the carving will create better and diffuse light and tinted bulbs add diffuse Kelvin, a color temperature generally referred more useful shadows that enhance the warmth to the environment. Spotlights to as “daylight.” carving process. and fl oodlights are also tungsten bulbs. A simple way to brighten the work- They are cone shaped with front lenses bench is by clamping an articulated that either focus or diffuse the light. (cooler). And a green light will make lamp on the corner of the workbench. Light travels outward from spotlights the apple appear grayish. Imagine the This gives a spotlight effect, which is and fl oodlights in a cone-shaped form effect that lighting will have if a dark ideal for detail work. and the area of this cone of light with cherry workpiece is subjected to warm Remember: the closer light is to the the greatest candlepower is referred to or cool lights. Will that “golden oak” work area the stronger the shadows. as the beam angle. Generally, beam stain look yellowish or greenish? The opposite is also true: the more dis- angle is 15° to 25° for spotlights and Fluorescent lights and incandescent lamps color objects differently. The cool and warm color differences are a func- This articulated lamp tion of wavelength variations. fi ts into dog holes on Warmer light is often thought of as Editor Chris Schwarz’s the light at sunset or the light from an bench and can be incandescent bulb. Cooler light is the moved as necessary light of mid-day, an overcast sky or fl uo- for detail work. rescent light. Degrees Kelvin (K) is the term commonly used for light temperature. The Kelvin scale is invaluable for select- ing light to match your needs. Gener- ally, lower degrees Kelvin represents a warmer appearance and higher degrees Kelvin represents a cooler look.

Shadow, Reﬂ ection, Contrast The amount of light required to perform a task is directly related to a person’s age. At the age of 40, the light requirement is three times greater than that required for a 10 year old. At the age of 60, the light needed is 15 times

Degrees Kelvin Ratings Daylight at sunrise 1,800 K Daylight at noon 5,000 K

popularwoodworking.com Everything you need to know about setting up your shop!

30° to 75° for fl oodlights. So, for more warm white. Before purchasing, make From getting the most out of your pin-point lighting, spotlights provide a sure that the lamp and the fi xture are space, to choosing machinery loca- narrower beam than fl oodlights. compatible by checking the size and tion, lighting, power and material shape of the end-pins. Also check the storage, this seven-chapter series Halogen Lamps lamp’s wattage with that of the ballast. offers all the answers. Halogen lamps are actually tungsten- There are at least eight different Chapter 2 halogen lamps in two basic types: low types of fl uorescent lights. Product pack- voltage and standard-line voltage. Low- aging should furnish lamp designations, LightingLighting & PowerPower voltage halogen lamps require a trans- including references to color rendering, Task versus ambient lighting? 110 or 220 power? Learn the former and operate at both lower voltage degrees Kelvin, watts and lumens. best options for your shop. and lower wattage than standard-line voltage halogen lamps. They are usually High-intensity-discharge Lamps designed as refl ectors, allowing them This type of lamp wasn’t mentioned IINN FUTUREFUTURE ISSUESISSUES to be directed at specifi c work areas. earlier because it is fairly new and is Chapter 3 �� Low-voltage halogen lamps are relatively not commonly used. High-intensity- ��

�� Placing Machinery �� small and lend themselves to use in discharge (HID) lamps include metal � �� The right machines in the �� recessed fi xtures. Generally, beam angle halide lamps, mercury lamps and high- �� rightright locationslocations wwillill mmakeake yyourour �� from the refl ector is 5° to 30°. pressure sodium lamps. These have pri- �� Standard-line-voltage halogen lamps marily been used for industrial purposes woodworking smooth. �� are more effi cient than standard incan- but are slowly being accepted for other Chapter 4 �� descent tungsten lamps but they have uses (mostly for architectural and secu- Small Tool �� the disadvantages of expense and high rity purposes). �� Organization �� temperatures. Line-voltage halogen There are disadvantages to using �� lamps should be kept away from any HID lamps: They require warming up Balancing maximum �� fl ammable materials. Follow the manu- and cooling down periods when they are storage with accessiblity will save time and energy.

�� facturers’ use recommendations. turned on and off, and they produce a �� bluish light that gives an unfamiliar col- �� Chapter 5 ��

�� Fluorescent Lamps oring to most things, including wood- �� Material Storage � �� Fluorescent lighting is generally low- working projects. �� ProperProper llumberumber aandnd ssheet-goodheet-good �� cost and efﬁ cient. Tungsten bulbs have Currently, metal halide lamps are the �� storage keeps the materials �� an average life of 750 to 1,250 hours and only HID lamps that approach normal �� straight and handy. ��

�� ﬂ uorescent lights have an average life of colorization. HID lamps, even though �� 20,000 hours. they are energy efﬁ cient, aren’t useful for Chapter 6 ��

�� Fluorescent lamps come in different the woodshop because of their color ren- Dust Collection �� Keep your shop (and your �� color sensitivities, ranging from cool to dering and ﬁ xture conﬁ guration. PW �� lungs) dust free by planning �� ahead for any task. ��

�� Typical 48" Fluorescent Lights Chapter 7 �� Work Stations �� BULB NAME °KELVIN LUMENS* WATTS CRI** �� & Benches �� Sunshine 5,000 K 2,250 40 90 �� Beyond machines, work sta- �� Daylight Delux 6,500 K 2,250 40 84 �� tions and benches are where ��

�� SP-35, moderate white 3,500 K 3,200 40 73 �� everything gets done in a ��

�� SP-41, cool white 4,150 K 3,200 40 42 woodshop. Choose well. �� *A lumen is a unit of measurement that expresses the total quantity of light given off by a light source. For IINN PASTPAST IISSUESSSUES practical purposes, fl uorescent lights use much less energy than incandescent bulbs and still produce similar or better light levels. Chapter 1 (ISSUE #157) **Color rendering index (CRI) is a measurement of color shift when an object is illuminated by a light. CRI TheThe RightRight LocationLocation ranges from 1 to 100, with natural daylight and incandescent light equal to 100. Therefore, lights with a higher Learn the pros and cons of CRI produce more natural colors. basement, garage and out- NOTE: Foot-candles is a measure of lumens per square foot, as measured on a working surface or fl oor building shops – and how to area. For an offi ce, the general working range is 15 to 70 foot-candles. If you are doing precise work, 100 to make the most of any shop. 200 foot-candles is recommended. On a cloudless sunny day, the sun gives off 1,000 foot-candles.

OrderOrder backback issuesissues onlineonline atat popularwoodworking.compopularwoodworking.com oror POPULAR WOODWORKING call 800-258-0929. REFINING THE Edge A master class in honing carving tools.

n the last issue, we looked at a basic set of carving tools and how to refi ne the shapes I with grinding. In this article, we’ll take a look at getting the edges sharp for carving by honing. German woodcarver Frederick Brunner made me aware of an important key: the necessity for an absolutely fl at bevel. We want a straight line from the micro edge back on the tool steel, so there is no resistance when carving. Having a round bevel is like driving down the road with your emergency brake on. The rounded curve gives inherent drag to the activity. We establish the outside bevel fi rst on the grinder (see “Bare Bones of Carving,” October 2006, issue # 157). The angle you grind on the bevel is based on the thickness of the tools. The fi rst rule is that you do not want a long, thin bevel. I always tell my students, “A shaving razor blade is sharp but it is lousy in woodcarving.” You need the shoulder to ride on. So, let’s step into the apprenticeship here and learn the basic strokes of hand sharpening, Brunner Style. For starters, I use Japanese water slipstones. This is the only change I made from the oil slipstones that Brunner used. The Japanese culture is hand-oriented and the feel of the tool in the hand is important as a reference point. The fi rst rule of sharpening is that to get a fl at bevel you need a fl at sharpening surface. Two waterstones of the same grit will

by David Calvo David has been a professional woodcarver since 1979, and operates Calvo Woodcarving School. For Senior Editor Robert W. Lang tries information, visit his web site at David Calvo’s sharpening techniques.

davidcalvo.com. ParrishAl by Photo

popularwoodworking.com 53 Lay the heel of the bevel down on resurface and fl atten each other the stone and rock it toward the toe when rubbed together, creating until the bevel is fl at. When sharpen- an absolute fl at surface. ing, move the stone back and forth Many times I have been given and swivel the gouge. old oilstones from people whose father had been a woodworker and the stones look like a mountain range. I appreciate the thought but the stones are useless. They just won’t work if they aren’t dead fl at. Easy resurfacing is a great advan- 90° tage with water slipstones, plus using water as a lubricant instead of oil makes it easily approach- able and not a messy process at all. They are a perfect match for the woodcarver.

Sharpening Technique Start with the #1,000-grit waterstone and then use the #4,000 grit. After the waterstone has soaked Hold the stone in your writing hand, with your forearm vertical. Hold in water for fi ve minutes, pick up the gouge in your other hand with the bevel fl at against the stone. the 2" x 4" rectangular stone with Your arms should be at a right angle to each other. your writing hand. You want to anchor your body and drop your weight onto the foot underneath Hold the tool stationary and move the stone up and down. You can re- your writing hand. Hold the stone shape the waterstone if necessary to to the far end with your fingers match the shape and size of the tool. on the thin side and the thumb on the heavier side. The gouge is horizontal to your writing arm holding the stone at 90°. The gouge goes in the free hand and will lay on the stone (bevel fl at) diagonally heading toward your writing hand’s shoulder. The way we lay the gouge onto the stone is heel-to-toe, meaning the back of the bevel lays down fi rst and rocks forward until you touch the toe or front edge. Sight this so that you have a visual reference. The fi ngers of the hand holding the gouge are wrapped close to the cutting edge as if you were going to spin a pencil. The tool should remain stationary and is lightly spun back and forth like a pencil. The hand holding the stone will go back and forth, with the elbow stationary To hone the inside bevel, hold the stone vertically with your hand as if your arm was an upside-down over the top. clock pendulum, as shown in the

54 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 photos. You never want to move leather strop or an #8,000-grit the tool more than two-thirds up stone). This is taking off the micro and down the stone. Always start scratches on the edge left from the with the tool’s bevel laying fl at on sharpening stones. The desired the stone. result is to be able to move the tool There is a drag to the water through wood like butter. The less slipstone that allows you to feel the tool resists, the more effortless what is going on at the point of woodcarving becomes. contact with the tool. Start to I made my own strops from old move the stone back and forth woodworking machine leather toward your opposite shoulder. belts, but any thick leather will do. Keep your feet anchored with your I cut them into 12" lengths and cut weight on one foot. This will allow a variety of gouge sweeps in the you to feel more what is going on leather running the length of the in your hands. The elbow below strop. The strops are soaked in oil the stone should be like a plumb or glycerin for a couple weeks. bob, directly under the action. I made a little shaker bottle Keep the action as close to your fi lled with carborundum powder, eyes as possible so that you can equal parts #220 and #320 grit. shift back and forth from sensing Before honing, I lightly put some Thick leather soaked in oil is used for a strop. Grooves cut in the leather give the strop the exact shape of the tool. the feeling in your hands to see- oil cut with kerosene on the strops ing what you are doing. This style and then sprinkle the carborun- of sharpening can accommodate dum mixture on top of the oil. The Proof Is the Edge It’s a little like playing the very large gouges to very tiny vein- Start by placing the tool on When I start to carve, I fi nd that violin: awkward at fi rst, but the ers with the same approach. the far end of the strop. Then set the tool itself continues to sharpen positioning will settle into place The inside of the bevel is done the tool bevel so that it lays fl at because the wood will burnish the and soon you will be making mar- in a different manner. The same in one of the contours and pull it tool edge as it cuts through the velous music. The main thing is hands hold the gouge and stone, toward you two or three times to wood’s tubular fiber. Even now, that you now are gaining an edu- but instead, hold the stone upright preserve the fl at bevel. after all these years of carving, I am cated beginning point in the skill (in length) with your hand over However, stropping the tool fascinated with the thought that as of woodcarving. In the end, the the top. The hand holding the tool can have a tendency to round over I carve, the tool gets sharper. quality of how the tool is shaped is stationary, almost vertical and the edge if you are not careful. A With some experimentation, and sharpened is determined by the stone goes up and down like method to avoid this is to instead you now have in your wood- how it feels when it goes through an old oil rig pump. As with the continue honing with the water working technique toolbox an the wood. Wood will always be outside bevel, you always want to slipstones by going up to #8,000 approach to carving-tool design the silent teacher and remember lay the tool down heel-to-toe. The grit and skipping the strop. The and sharpening. A picture is … your tools can be read like a set slipstone has opposing large and hard, flat surface of the water- worth a thousand words so use of tea leaves. small rounded sides; use the appro- stone guarantees a fl at bevel and the photographs as a reference. Next time, I will start with the priate side for your tool’s radius. the #8,000 grit produces a fl awless Your mantra is: practice, practice, study of body mechanics and hand The great thing about water slip- surface. practice. technique in woodcarving. PW stones is that they can be reshaped into many different forms. Straight chisels are also easy Heel of bevel to sharpen with this method; the stance is the same, but you hold Toe the chisel stationary and move the stone, working one side and then Edge is fl at, not rounded the other. V-tools are the most diffi cult to sharpen, and I will address them in a future article.

The Barbershop Strop The resulting edge is ﬂ at from the cutting edge back The last process in sharpening to the shank of the tool. The polished edge will move The inside edge is also ﬂ at and polished from the cutting is honing the tool (either with a through wood like butter. edge back.

popularwoodworking.com 55 The Lost Stickley Table A one-of-a-kind table reappears after 100 years.

by Robert W. Lang ost original Gustav referring to the full-size drawing Robert W. Lang is the author of several books about furniture of the Arts & Crafts Stickley furniture can period of the early 1900s. His latest book, “Shop Drawings for Greene and Greene only slows things down and invites Mbe easily identiﬁ ed by Furniture,” has just been released by Fox Chapel Publishing. More information mistakes. model number. This was, after all, about his books is available at craftsmanplans.com. Comments or questions? I made the legs by laminating factory-made furniture and pieces Contact Bob at 513-531-2690 ext. 1327 or [email protected]. two 13⁄16"-thick pieces together, were designed to be made in mul- then covering the edge seams with tiples. When you come across an the likely reason this piece never maker who built this prototype 1⁄8"-thick veneer that I resawed antique, you can look it up in an got beyond the prototype stage. lived when it was a great time to from the same boards I used for old catalog to identify it. However, This table features many of be a woodworker. Hand-tool skills the other parts of the legs. This the only known example of this the Stickley design elements that had not yet been forgotten, and is the method originally used by small table appeared at a Sotheby’s appear in other pieces. There isn’t machinery was in use to make life Gustav Stickley to show quarter- auction in late 2004. much material in it, but there is a in the shop easier. sawn figure on all four edges of a This uncataloged piece was good deal of labor-intensive, head- As I planned how I would leg. To keep the thin pieces flat, I likely a prototype, never put into scratching joinery involved. This make this piece, I realized it made glued and clamped all of the legs factory production. What makes it probably made it too expensive sense to do some of the work with together at one time. unique is the front and back splay to be marketed at a reasonable machine methods, while on other After trimming the edges of of the legs. It’s this slight angle price, but that does make it a great parts it would be quicker and easier the veneer ﬂ ush with my smooth- that gives this table more charac- project on which to practice and to make some joints by hand. ing plane, I cut the angles at the ter than straight-legged versions develop joinery skills. top and bottom of each leg. I then that were mass produced. It’s also The anonymous cabinet- First Things First returned to the full-size layout to Before cutting any lumber, I made locate the mortises. The mor- a full-size section drawing on a tises in each leg are in different piece of plywood. This helped me locations, so I marked each leg’s plan the sequence of building, and position in the table on its top. the sizes of the joints. It also estab- As I made other pieces, I marked lished a reference to the exact size which leg they joined to with a and shape of the parts. red lumber crayon. While I was building this The mortises on the back of table, I referred to this drawing the front legs, and the front of the rather than relying on calcula- back legs are parallel to the top tions, numbers and measuring. My and bottom of the legs. I put an CAD program tells me that the angled block of scrap on the bed angle of the legs is 3.56˚ and that of the hollow-chisel mortiser to the length of the bottom edge of make these mortises. the rail between the legs is 1517⁄32". Neither of those pieces of infor- The Best Made Plans Using a full-size section drawing is essential; it lets me set angles and shows mation is needed, and trying to I planned on making the remain- the exact sizes of parts without any of the risks of measuring. build to the numbers instead of ing mortises in the legs with the

56 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006

The Lost Stickley Table

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popularwoodworking.com 57 mortiser, but on the second mor- shoulders, and a jig that rides on tise, the machine broke down. the fence to cut the cheeks. Faced with a deadline, I switched I considered making the angled to plan B and made these mortises cuts on the remaining tenons on with my plunge router. the table saw, but realized each The through mortises that angled setup would need to be pierce the lower front and back done twice: One to the right and rails are at an angle to the face, one to the left. I decided to make a and I’d planned to use an angled guide block that could be reversed block on the bed of the mortiser for my handsaw, as seen in the pho- to make them. Instead, I used a tos at bottom left and center. similar setup on the drill press. I This was a quick and accurate removed most of the waste with a method, and I was able to make Forstner bit, then cleaned up the all four saw cuts for each joint in openings with chisels and rasps. sequence. This helped to keep the I made the straight and stan- parts in order, and prevented mak- dard tenons on the ends of the ing any miscuts by machine. lower rails on the table saw. I used I dry-ﬁ tted the front and back Thin veneers tend to buckle when clamped. Gluing them in a stack applies a miter gauge to cut the tenon legs with the top rails, and checked even pressure to keep them ﬂ at.

Angled scrap

The angled mortises on the lower rails were roughed out with a Forstner bit on the drill press. After squaring the corners of the mortise with a An angled block of scrap wood tilts the leg to cut A tapered block under the workpiece makes the chisel, I use a rasp to ﬁ nish smoothing the inside of an angled mortise parallel to the top of the leg. holes at the correct angle. the angled joint.

The quick and easy way to make the angled cuts After ﬁ tting the through tenon, the location of the for the through tenons is with a handsaw, guided These angled shoulder cuts would be tricky to second mortise is laid out, keeping the back of the by an angled block of wood. make with power tools. hole just behind the face of the rail.

58 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 this assembly against my full-size layout. The angles matched, so I STICKLEY SPLAYED-LEG TABLE NO. ITEM DIMENSIONS (INCHES) MATERIAL COMMENTS knew I could determine the length T W L and angle of the lower stretcher ❏ 1 Top 13⁄1616 153⁄8 21 QSWO directly from the full-size drawing. ❏ 2 Top aprons 13⁄1616 41⁄4 177⁄8 QSWO 11⁄4" ATBE The critical length on this part is ❏ 2 Lower rails 7⁄8 51⁄4 135⁄8 QSWO 11⁄4" TBE the distance between the shoul- ❏ 1 Lower stretcher 3⁄4 37⁄8 221⁄4 QSWO 113⁄1616" BSTBE ders of the through tenons. The ❏ 4 Legs 15⁄8 17⁄8 27 QSWO Angle both ends angled parts of these tenons are ❏ 1 Back apron 13⁄1616 41⁄4 135⁄8 QSWO 11⁄4" TBE short, but they need to be exact. I ❏ 1 Rail below drawer 13⁄1616 13⁄1616 125⁄8 QSWO 3⁄4" TBE didn’t want to risk a miscut on the ❏ 1 Drawer front 13⁄1616 31⁄2 111⁄8 QSWO Bevel both edges to fi t table saw, so I used another angled ❏ 2 Tenon keys 1⁄2 5⁄8 2 QSWO Taper to fi t through tenons block to guide my handsaw. ❏ 2 Drawer sides 5⁄8 31⁄4 157⁄8 Maple ❏ 1 Drawer back 5⁄8 31⁄4 111⁄8 Maple The Key to a Good Fit ❏ 1 Drawer bottom 1⁄4 101⁄2 151⁄4 Maple I did use the table saw tenon- ❏ 2 Web frame stiles 3⁄4 2 171⁄4 Poplar Notch around legs ing jig to cut the wide cheeks of ❏ 2 Web frame rails 3⁄4 2 93⁄4 Poplar 3⁄4" TBE the through tenons on the lower ❏ 2 Drawer runners 11⁄1616 9⁄1616 153⁄4 Maple Fit between legs & beside drawer stretcher, and the band saw to ❏ 2 Drawer stop 11⁄1616 9⁄1616 6 Maple Fit behind drawer cut the edge cheeks. I made all of these cuts a hair big. Through QSWO=quartersawn white oak; TBE=tenon both ends; BSTBE=beveled shoulder tenon both ends; ATBE=angled tenon both ends tenons always demand some hand fi tting. I used chisels, rasps and a shoulder plane to fi t the tenons, �� checking the fit frequently as I came close to the fi nished size. With the through tenons fi t, �� there were only two mortises � remaining: Those for the keys �� that hold the lower stretcher to the lower rails. These look diffi cult, �� but are actually the easiest joints �� to make in the piece. With the tenon fi t in its mortise, I made a Lower rails, stretcher & pencil mark at the intersection. Web frame plan tenon key plan

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popularwoodworking.com 59 The mortise is cut with one plunge of the hollow-chisel As the tenon key is ﬁ t, the length above and below the After cutting the key to length, I mortiser. A piece of scrap below the cut supports the through tenon changes. I leave the key long and mark the round the edges above and below tenon, keeping the wood from breaking on the back side. length once I have a good ﬁ t. the completed joint.

Taking the pieces back apart, I the narrow rail below the drawer together. When I had all the joints and the top aprons. I cut some made another line slightly behind and the web frame. The rail is fit, I made a dry assembly of the angled blocks and attached them the fi rst one. This puts the mortise thin so that it can be turned 90˚ table. Then I took the pieces back to the top of the legs with masking just behind the intersection, and to show quartersawn fi gure on its apart so I could plane, scrape and tape so that the clamps would pull ensures that the key pulls the two face. It is also beveled to be par- sand all of them before gluing the straight on the angled legs. lower rails tightly together. Luck- allel with the front faces of the entire table together. After letting the glue dry on ily a repair part for the mortiser legs. The web frame is made from I glued in stages, making sub- these, I put one of the leg assem- arrived, and I could cut these mor- poplar, and is mortise and tenoned assemblies of front and back legs, blies flat on my bench. I put glue tises with one stroke of the 1⁄2" chisel. I used a piece of scrap under the tenon to support it while the cut was made. In most pieces with a keyed tenon, the mortise is angled slightly to allow the key to wedge in place. Because the rails are tilted back and the stretcher is horizontal, the angle of the rail allows the key to wedge in a straight mortise. To make the keys, I cut a few long pieces of scrap to slightly more than the 1⁄2" width of the mortise by 5⁄8". I cut pieces about 6" long, and cut the taper on the band saw. I used my block plane to remove the saw marks, and bring the keys down to a snug fi t. This method let me get a good fit without worrying about the length of the keys. When I was happy with the fi t, I marked 3⁄4" above and below the protruding tenon to get the finished length of the keys. The assembled web frame is notched around the legs. After fi tting the drawer runners between the legs, they are The last parts to be made were screwed in place, and the drawer stop is also attached with screws to the frame.

60 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 in the mortises, and put in the upper-back rail, the small rail below the drawer, and the lower rails, with the stretcher in place between them. I then brushed glue on the tenons, and placed the second leg assembly on top. Turning the table upright on my bench, I clamped the joints and began to worry about the drawer. Half-blind dovetailed drawers don’t bother me, but I’d never made one with the face tilted back at an angle. I decided to lay out the tails with the same angles they After routing most of the waste, I use a chisel to pare the I laid out the tails with the same angles from horizontal would have if the drawer front pins down the rest of the way. The router quickly estab- that I would have if the drawer front were vertical. The were vertical. This makes the top lishes a consistent depth. knob is cut with the band saw, and shaped with a rasp. and bottom angles of the tails different in relation to the slanted shape of the pull on two adjacent clear packing tape and cut the I wanted an authentic look- drawer front which made the lay- faces, and cut it out on the band adjacent side. With the rough cut- ing ﬁ nish, but didn’t want to go out tricky, but it looked right when saw. I didn’t worry about the exact ting complete, I clamped the extra to the trouble of fuming it with the joints were completed. size of the radius below the pyra- length in my vise, and finished ammonia. I used W.D. Lock- After cutting the tails by hand, mid shaped top; that would come shaping the pull with a rasp. The wood Dark Fumed Oak aniline I laid out the pins on the ends of from the shape of my rasp. finished pull is held to the drawer dye (wdlockwood.com or 866- the drawer front, and removed After cutting one face, I taped front with a #8 x 11⁄4" screw from 293-8913) diluted with alcohol. most of the waste with an upcut the scraps back on the block with inside the drawer. I brushed on the dye, and wiped spiral bit in my trim router. This itit withwith a rag.rag. I thenthen brushedbrushed onon speeds things up, and gives a per- twotwo coatscoats ofof aambermber sshellac.hellac. AAfterfter fectly flat surface where the back lettingletting thethe shellacshellac dry,dry, I aattachedttached of the tail rests on the bottom of thethe toptop withwith ﬁ gure-eightgure-eight fasten-fasten- the pin. I then used a chisel to pare ers.ers. I ttookook ooffff tthehe gglossloss ooff tthehe sshel-hel- down to the layout lines. laclac withwith a Scotch-BriteScotch-Brite padpad andand The pull was made from a cut- applied a coat of paste wax. PWPW off piece from one of the legs. I trimmed it down to 11⁄4" x 11⁄4" by about 3" long. The pull finishes at 11⁄8" but the extra length gave me something to hold on to while cutting it to shape. I laid out the

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popularwoodworking.com 61 Superior & Speedy SANDING

How to get the maximum results in the minimum amount of time: A slightly unorthodox approach from a 23-year cabinetshop veteran.

he difference between a project that looks OK and a project that looks stun- T ning is the fi nish. And the difference between a fi nish that looks OK and a fi nish that looks stunning is – hands down – the sanding job you did before you applied the stain and the topcoat fi nish to the project. Though most woodworkers dislike sanding and fi nishing, during the last 23 years and 4,000 projects of my professional cabinetmaking career, I’ve learned that nothing else separates the wheat from the chaff like the quality of a woodworker’s sanding and fi nishing efforts. Sanding (or old-style surface preparation with planes and scrapers) is the most important step to becoming a good fi nisher. by Troy Sexton Troy designs and builds custom furniture for Sexton Classic American Furniture in Sunbury, Ohio, and is a contributing editor to Popular Woodworking magazine.

Photo by Al Parrish The following advice is what I’ve learned as I’ve perfected my own power sanding routine, and it is honed by the fact that I’ve had to teach more than 25 of my employees how to sand like I do. Everybody who has worked for me immediately learns two things: how to clean up the workshop and how to power sand. These sanding methods are fast and no-nonsense – I need to make money at this; it’s my profession. And, my techniques produce This 3M mask is great, especially because it really covers quality results. Since I started in my beard. They are quite durable, too – you’re more likely this profession, only one customer to ruin the mask by storing it user-side up (so the inside A couple box fans with furnace fi lters taped in place can – one – has complained about the becomes clogged) than you are to rip it or clog it through work wonders in your shop. When the fi lters get clogged, standard use. blow them out with compressed air. quality of a project’s fi nish.

Basic Equipment: Safety These work great (I use them on Because sanding is dusty and nasty my furnace, too). work, you have to protect yourself. • I also use a simple bench I’ve tried different dust-collection brush to whisk away dust that has systems that attach to my sand- accumulated in the cracks and ers; none has been satisfactory. crevices of a workpiece. It also They get in the way of my work or removes grit that has loosened they fail to actually collect much from the sandpaper. If you don’t dust. As a result, here’s what I do remove this grit, it can scratch up to combat sanding dust. your surface while working at the • I always wear a dust mask. next higher grit, which is a real After trying many brands, I have problem. Every month or so, I’ll settled on the 3M-brand 8210 also open all the shop doors and “Plus” N95 face mask. These windows and blow out as much masks aren’t cheap (a little less dust from my shop as possible than $1 each) but they work. They using compressed air. A home- really work. Here’s the proof: I’m shop woodworker can do this a A simple bench brush removes dust and grit from your work. Always brush off your work before you switch grits to remove errant grit left from the paper. quite sensitive to dust (sanding lot less frequently. Hearing pro- oak and walnut will give me a tection also is essential; sanders headache), but I recently had my are noisy critters. lung strength and capacity tested by a physician. After 23 years of Sandpaper and Pads sanding with a mask, I came in I use four grits of sandpaper for second place compared with every everything I build: #100, #120, person they had ever given the test #150 and #180. I used to sand to to. Please, wear a dust mask. #220 grit, but I found that it bur- • To carry dust away from nished the surface of the wood my work, I use box fans that I’ve and reduced the amount of stain taped furnace filters to. Don’t penetration. And if you are going bother buying the fancy filters to paint your project, you can stop with the pleated paper-like fab- at #120 grit. ric – you can’t blow the dust out of When you order sandpaper, be those to clean them. Get the very sure to order twice as much #100- inexpensive ﬁ lters that look like grit paper as the other grits. The Here you can see my four pneumatic sanders and the job-site lamp I use at my they are made of spun insulation. #100-grit stuff does all the heavy sanding station. The lamp rakes light across my work, pointing out ﬂ aws.

popularwoodworking.com 63 lifting, mostly removing milling pad that I use with my #180-grit If you use the peel-and-stick marks. You’ll burn through a lot sandpaper. It allows me to get into paper, here’s some good advice: more of it than the other grits slight hollows and in mouldings Every time you change the paper, because about half of your total that other pads won’t. clean off the sander’s pad, even if time sanding will be taken up with To sand complex mouldings, I this means simply wiping it clean the #100-grit stuff. also use sanding sponges. These on your shirt. Any little piece of While there are a lot of good soft sponges are available in the gunk on the pad will transmit brands of sandpaper out there same grits as my sandpaper and fl ex its shape to the sandpaper itself, (Klingspor, Norton 3X, etc.), I to get into the ogees and arrises resulting in extra and deep sand- have settled on the Mirka brand. common on custom furniture. ing scratches that you have to For my work, it’s ideal. Like other Whenever they get clogged up work hard to remove. premium sandpapers, it’s made with sanding dust, you can rinse And when it comes to chang- with thick paper and it holds up them out to renew them. ing paper, do it often. Sandpaper well even when it heats up. Because I have four sanders is cheap, and your time in the shop The pad you use on your sander in my shop, I can keep each tool is not. If you have to switch paper is critical as well. In general, the loaded with a single grit of paper. once for every door you sand, do it. pads that attach to your sander As a result, I have found the peel- How do you tell if your sandpaper come in fi rm, medium and soft. I and-stick paper to be the best for is worn? It will stop cutting rapidly, A simple and inexpensive magnify- use the medium pad (usually the me. The paper itself is cheaper and the edges will get frayed slightly ing glass helps me train employees tool’s standard pad) when sanding it adheres better (the hook-and- and the disc will get discolored to see sanding scratches. After a at #100, #120 and #150 grits. I have loop paper tends to fl y off the pad a bit. Pull the disc off and set it short period of time, you won’t have one sander with a soft, spongy on occasion). aside (it still can be used for some to use one of these except in diffi cult situations. hand-sanding chores). One of the biggest mistakes that beginning sanders make is Other Important Tools trying to conserve sandpaper. Before we plunge into procedure, What they end up doing instead there are a couple other tools you is wasting time. need. One is a magnifying glass. As you learn to sand, you will fi nd A Word on Sanders it invaluable in helping you see I’ve tried many electric random- the planer marks and sanding orbit sanders in my long wood- scratches you want to remove. working career. They work well, Learning to sand properly is, but I prefer the pneumatic sanders. after all, teaching yourself to see This is a fairly standard sentiment defects – to differentiate between among all the professional wood- what is wood grain and what is a The soft pad on one sander fl exes quite a bit to allow me to get into hollows workers I know. coarse sanding scratch. that stiff standard pads won’t. I really like the pneumatic The other bit of essential tools because they have fewer equipment is a shop light. These moving parts to burn out (I’ve had inexpensive yellow job-site lights my Dynabrade sanders for 10 to can be raked across your work to 12 years each), as long as you keep water out of your compressor’s air- lines. The pneumatic tools also are SUPPLIES slung lower to the work than the 3M electric tools, which gives them 800-243-4630 or 3M.com better balance, in my opinion. • 3M-brand 8210 “Plus” N95 However, you do need a large face mask, available from compressor to run pneumatic many industrial suppliers sanders and they have hoses that and amazon.com are bulkier than an electrical Keep your sanding pads clean. Paper Mirka Abrasives Inc. cord. Whichever type of sander A sanding sponge easily gets into will stick better and there will be no 800-843-3904 or you choose is fi ne; it’s how you use tight crevices and complex moulding little hunks of debris between the mirka-usa.com profi les. pad and paper to scratch the work. it that’s far more important.

64 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 glue. When the glue has cured, A word on the speed of your you want to first scrape off the work: Some manufacturers recom- beads of squeezed-out glue with mend moving the sander slowly a scraper. Don’t get aggressive – too slowly for my tastes. I move with the scraper. If you do, you the sander about 12" in a few sec- can remove chunks of wood. onds. This works well and always Load some fresh #100-grit has. I was surprised to hear how paper on your sander and start slowly some manufacturers rec- sanding. Keep the sander fl at on ommend their tools move on the A scraper removes the beads of glue. If you sand off these glue beads, you risk the work. Do not tip it to work wood. I will slow down my work heating them up and gumming up your sandpaper or work. Use a light touch a small area with an edge of the when the wood is quite hard (oak with the scraper. pad. Keep the center of the sander or maple) and speed up when it’s against the work at all times. Keep soft (poplar or pine). make defects leap out at you. Don’t in sanding a door apply to almost the sander moving at all times; do First, I work the four corners underestimate the importance any frame-and-panel construc- not stop in any place to try to sand of the door. I’ll use 6"- to 10"-long of lighting where you sand. The tion, which is stock-in-trade in a diffi cult spot. strokes across each joint-line of sanding area of my shop is also the my furniture business. Never press down hard on the the door to fl ush up the joints and most well-lit part of my shop. Before assembling the door, sander. You think that this will remove extra glue. If you’re not What type of surface should sand the panel itself and the increase your sanding speed, but sure if you removed all the glue, you sand on? I use carpet remnants moulded section surrounding the it won’t. It slows the pad down, wipe the joint line with a little and router pads. (These are sim- fi eld. Sand the back of the panel which slows the work. It also water or saliva – glue will show up ply repackaged pads commonly and the fi eld with #100-, #120-, increases the number of swirls readily as a white splotch. used under throw rugs; you can #150- and #180-grit paper. To sand scratched into the wood – and the Once the joints are level and buy them at any home store.) the moulded edge around the fi eld, swirls are deeper. Instead, rely on the planer marks are gone, I then put #150-grit paper on the sander the weight of the tool and the light move the sander all around the Sanding a Door with the soft sanding pad and sand amount of pressure required to perimeter of the door on the rails When I teach someone to sand, I’ll the moulded edges; then switch keep the tool under control. and stiles. Take long, sweeping typically start them out by sand- to #180-grit paper with the soft Also, using lots of downward motions and keep the sander moving two or three poplar raised- sanding pad. If the moulding is pressure will increase the chance ing. When you think you have panel doors, with me looking complex, use a sanding sponge that you will roll the sander off removed all the planer and jointer over their shoulder and pointing instead of the sander. the edge of the work, which can marks, dust off the door and look out their mistakes. The principles Assemble the door with yellow quickly ruin a workpiece. at it with your magnifying glass.

On a frame-and-panel assembly, work the corners ﬁ rst to remove the glue Now move the sander all the way around the perimeter of the door. Keep the and level the joints. Then move on to sanding the assembly as a whole. tool moving.

popularwoodworking.com 65 Sand the other face of the door this is when I stop for a moment job. As a rule, I’ll spend 20 minutes its fi nished size, I’ll sand the door’s in the same manner and then and wipe down the workpiece on a door that’s the size shown edges with #150-grit paper only, switch grits. With the #120-grit with water. The water raises up in the photo (which is 12" x 21"). then break the sharp edges of the paper, immediately begin moving any dents or imperfections that The first 10 minutes are spent assembly with whatever used-up the sander all around the perim- have been mashed down into the with the #100-grit paper. The sandpaper disc is handy, usually eter of the door. Do not work a work by my machines. I like to use #120-grit paper gets fi ve minutes #150 or #180. localized area. Switch to #150-grit hot water because it dries more on the door. The #150 gets three If the door is an overlay door on your sander and start working quickly, but any water will do. minutes; the #180 gets two. – where the edges will overlay the the perimeter of the door. Once the water is dry, I switch carcase or face frame – I’ll sand the If I am going to stain a project, to #180-grit paper and fi nish the Sanding Edges edges up to #180 grit because the Once the two faces are done I’ll edges will be quite visible. When sand the edges. Some people opt to you work the edges, take extra clamp their work upright in a vise. care. Because there isn’t a lot of I much prefer to lay the work fl at surface area there, it’s diffi cult to on my bench and hold the sander balance the sander on the edge so its pad is at 90° to the fl oor. I fi nd and it’s easy to roll the edge and this is more accurate, overall. ruin your crisp corners. If the door is going to be inset When sanding rounded edges, into a face frame or carcase of the the approach is different. I’ll sand project, its edges won’t get much with the same grits, but there is scrutiny. So after I trim the door to more motion. I start with the sander nearly fl at on the work and then move it so its pad is 90° to the fl oor, up and down the edge. Then I fl ip the work over and repeat the same process to work the other side of the rounded edge.

Sanding Panels Sanding glued-up panels is an art Put your workpiece so its edge hangs off your work- unto itself, though many of the bench. Hold the sander so the pad is 90° to the fl oor same principles you learned from and then work the edge. This is easier than trying to sanding doors apply. My approach balance the door on edge with one hand and sand is a bit unorthodox compared to with the other. what you read in many woodworking textbooks, but it works quite Used-up sandpaper discs can be folded up and used well and is fast. to break edges. Hold the paper fl at against your When working a panel, I still hand and approach the work at an angle. A couple use all the same sandpaper and strokes breaks the sharp corner. the same techniques I described above, but the pattern in which I move the sander is important. There are three kinds of sanding patterns I use for each grit. First, I sand the panel by moving the sander along the grain of the board back and forth and concentrate on one board at a time in the glue-up. For example, if the panel is made up of three boards, I’ll work the first board back and forth, then the middle When dealing with an edge with a bullnose profi le, begin with the sander just about fl at to the face of the work (left). board, then the third board. My Then twist the sander down so the pad is 90° to the fl oor (right). Up and down, all along the edge. strokes are pretty short, usually

66 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 Pattern 1: about 12" right and then 12" left, Work each board back and forth. in the glue-up As with sanding doors, keep separately. Work the center of the pad over the work along the grain at all times – otherwise you could in short strokes, easily roll the tool off the panel back and forth. and ruin the crisp edge. Second, I sand the panel by moving across the grain of the entire panel up and down the panel and all along its length. These strokes should overlap slightly. As always, keep moving and don’t press down to try to rem- edy problem areas. Third, I sand the panel by using long, overlapping strokes with the grain that run the entire length of the panel. (If the panel is Pattern 2: too long for one long stroke with Now work across my arm, I’ll do this pattern in sec- the grain. Overlap tions.) When I’ve completed these your strokes and work all along the three patterns, I dust off the panel grain, then back and examine the surface with a again. magnifying glass. If all the planer marks are gone, I’ll move to the next-higher grit and repeat the three patterns.

Learning to Like Sanding Few people claim to actually enjoy sanding. I don’t mind it so much because I like paying close attention to the ﬁ ne details of the job. It’s also a skill that almost anyone can learn – there has only been one person I really couldn’t teach Pattern 3: to sand to my standards. Sand- End up your work ing doesn’t require the high level with long sweep- of hand-eye coordination that ing strokes all some complex joinery does. All along the grain of it requires is patience and close the panel. Overlap attention to the work. your strokes all Here’s how you’ll know when across the width. you’ve become a good sander: Walk into any high-end store that sells manufactured furniture. It does not matter how expensive or fancy the work appears from a distance. Get up close and take a good look at the wood – its clarity especially. If you don’t like what you see, you’re there. PW

popularwoodworking.com 67 NewA quick look at some of the best newTool tools we saw in Atlanta. ALERT

t isn’t every day that you see Box shrugs his shoulders and upper wheels of the steel-frame line of distributors. For more infor- a new tool company appear looks around at the new gray and band saws are held in tension with mation on the line (or to find a I out of nowhere with a com- black machines around him that two massive springs. dealer), visit steelcitytoolworks. plete line of high-quality wood- are branded Steel City. Then he My fi rst impression (which I com or call 615-225-9001. working machines, but that’s smiles. Of course, the real question hope will be backed up by our test- almost exactly what happened is if the customers will be smiling ing in the future) is that Steel City Freud Launches the in late August as Steel City Tool when they turn these machines has a line of tools that omits all the Single-blade Solution Works unveiled an impressive bat- on. I spent more than an hour gizmos you don’t need and piles on Every year a tooling manufacturer talion of heavy-duty machinery at examining the machines in the all the stuff that makes machinery (or two) introduces a general- the International Woodworking line, and as someone who has seen work well, such as cast iron, steel purpose table saw blade that’s Fair in Atlanta. a lot of machinery in the last 10 and well-machined parts. supposed to be the do-everything With more than 30 machines years, I was impressed. I know you’re wondering about blade for rips, crosscuts and deal- in its stable (so far), Steel City’s Steel City paid attention to the price of the stuff. That’s good ing with veneer plywood. line of tools is a warning shot the details both big and small as too. I found the prices to be an Every year, the blades get a lit- across the bow of the big manu- it built these machines in Taiwan impressive value once I got my tle better. But this year, it looks facturers: Delta, Powermatic, Jet and China. Big details: The cast hands on the tools. For exam- like Freud has made a blade that and Grizzly. That should come iron trunnions on the company’s ple: a 17" drill press with a huge is a good deal better. The Freud as little surprise after you learn fl agship cabinet saw are massive, 6" stroke, three bearings on the 40-tooth Premier Fusion table saw that the people who thought up like something off an old table quill and a split-cast head (which blades will sell for $99 and might Steel City are people who worked saw (or battleship). And small allows you to eliminate runout very well be the only blade you for many of those major manufac- details: The knobs on many of during the long term) for $469. need on your table saw for your turers and importers. After years the machines are metal where you It’s well-manufactured equipment daily chores. Company offi cials of working in the trenches, they expect to fi nd plastic. The table at a fair price. cut samples in oak and oak ply- struck out on their own. saw fences move with a Steel City will wood and passed them around to “We are building these feather touch. The be sold only the woodworking press. Even to machines the way we always through the my “I like hand planed surfaces” wanted to build them,” says Scott company’s eyes, the results were fl awless. Box, a principal of Steel City. “For After many years of experiments, years (when we were employed Freud says this elsewhere) we had to fi nd ways to new blade makes cut costs and quality. Castings got perfect rips and thinner. Things got cheaper.” crosscuts.

Torben Helshoj demonstrates the Laguna Tools Circle Steel City offers a wide range of cabinet saws, including this deluxe model Master accessory, which allows you to quickly turn logs with a titanium nitrite-coated top that resists rust and scratches. into round bowl blanks.

68 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 New Tool ALERT

The secret to the saw blade is It’s called the Circle Master New Chairmaking Tools devils and a scraper shave ($59 the combination of several factors. and it’s an accessory for a band From Lee Valley each) for refining spindles or The tops of the teeth are ground saw that is dead simple to use. It’s The hardest part of making Wind- details, and a special chairmaker’s with a steep alternate-top bevel, basically a band saw circle-cutting sor chairs has typically been fi nd- scraper ($76.50 with four blades) which reduces chipping. The sides jig that captures a workpiece at the ing the tools you need to do it. that allows you to scrape fl at and of the teeth have a tiny secondary top and bottom (circle-cutting jigs Many tools have been worn out or unusual shapes with fi nesse and bevel up at the cutting arris, which contact the work only at the bot- lost in time. Lee Valley Tools has gusto. This scraper is based on a burnishes the cut edge without tom). Then you move the stock greatly expanded its line of chair- tool I used in a chairmaking class burning it. The blade has wide into the blade and spin it slowly. making tools under the company’s with David Fleming a couple years polymer-fi lled anti-vibration cuts And voilà, you can cut a perfect Veritas line. And here’s a bonus: ago and I can vouch that it’s an in the sawplate. And the blade is cylinder – or if you tilt your band they are very reasonably priced. excellent idea. More information: coated with Freud’s red non-stick saw’s table – a tapered cylinder. The most radical tool is the leevalley.com or 800-871-8158. Perma-SHIELD that resists cor- Helshoj also showed off the company’s take on a travisher, rosion and pitch. company’s Drift Master band which scoops out wooden seats. And a Glimpse at the Future Most times these do-every- saw fence accessory. Here’s the The Veritas Pullshave ($129) is This covers only a small portion of thing saw blades stop perform- one-word review: Wow. It is the like a curved-bottom spokeshave what we unearthed in Atlanta this ing like champs once we have a smartest band saw fence I’ve that has been married to a paint summer. Look for more reviews in 100 hours on them or so. I cannot ever encountered. The way you scraper’s handle. I played with the the coming months (and check wait to put this horse in the race. adjust for drift is so simple and Pullshave a bit and it looks like out our blog at popularwoodwork- More information: freudtools.com easy, you’ll want to chuck all it really is more ergonomic than ing.com for more on the show). or 800-472-7307. those hex wrenches most people traditional travishers. Meanwhile, we would be remiss use. Plus the micro-adjustment Also, there are three tapered if we didn’t share one of the eye- Good News for Bowl Turners features lets you dial in veneer of reamers ($12.95 to $34.50) and popping inventions of the show: And Band Saw Lovers consistent thickness. More infor- fi ve matching tapered tenon cut- a mobile base for your machines If you have ever been frustrated by mation: lagunatools.com or 949- ters ($18.50 each) for joining legs that works like a hovercraft. roughing out blanks for turning 474-1200. to seats. There are three chair Arra David has invented the bowls, Torben Helshoj of Laguna Hoverpad, which allows your Tools has invented an accessory heavy machines to be moved on Inventor Arra that will speed your production a cushion of air with the oopmh David (right) and simplify your life. shows off the of one fi nger. The Hoverpad con- Hoverpad and nects to any compressor (even tiny how you can ones). And when you open a valve, move machines your machines rise up – as much with one fi nger. as 1⁄2" off the ground. We tried it. It’s amazing. The Hoverpad is sold through General and comes in two sizes and prices ($169 and $249). It might be a bit expensive for a mobile base, but you could give the neighborhood children a ride on your cabinet saw and charge a quarter to offset the cost. More information: hoverpad.com, general.ca or 514-326-1161. PW

by Christopher Schwarz The Veritas Pullshave is one of the many chairmaking Christopher is the editor of Popular tools unveiled by Lee Valley. Woodworking magazine.

popularwoodworking.com 69 Cup reduced by ripping rough stock

get to meet many woodworkers Do you look back fondly at the Cup around the country at wood- many articles in the woodworking Iworking schools, seminars and magazines on how to “tune up” while answering e-mail messages. I your tools? Probably not. You may fi nd that one issue pops up repeat- have even tired of these articles, edly: “What is the correct method but they are important. The accu- Rough cutting the width of any cupped board closer to the size needed will eliminate unnecessary milling and produce less wasted stock. for milling lumber?” You might be rate milling of your lumber is par- familiar with the basic steps that tially dependent on the accuracy are required to bring the lumber of your machines. If your planer the original shape. This machine can turn a large portion of your to working order. But what you do, and jointer knives aren’t level with does a good job with fl at boards, lumber into shavings. how you do it, and in what order one another, your cuts will not be which we seldom see. However, For example, if you have a bow you do it will infl uence the project level. Having the tools set prop- if your pieces are cupped, warped over the length of the board, by from start to fi nish, and will make erly is half the battle. The correct or twisted they will be that way the time you fl atten one face at the your projects run smoother. procedure is the other half. as they exit the machine – even jointer you might reduce the board To properly mill your stock You may be tempted to bypass though they are now a consistent below your target thickness. The using machines you will need to a few of these steps and purchase thickness throughout. I suggest same holds true with wide boards have a jointer, a thickness planer lumber that has some of the mill- buying rough lumber and milling that are cupped. and a table saw. In my opinion, ing complete. I’m not a fan of buy- the stock yourself. Also, it’s not possible to accu- these are the three most impor- ing lumber that is S2S (surfaced rately fl atten a wide piece of lum- tant tools in your shop. They two sides). This wood, for the most Start With Smaller Pieces ber by running half the width on don’t need to be the “Cadillac” part, comes through a double-sided Some woodworkers start milling the jointer and then reversing the examples. I have been able to work thickness planer to the selected the lumber in its full length and piece to complete the milling on with a number of benchtop models thickness. These machines exert width as it is pulled rough from the the remaining half of the same that perform extremely well. Just so much pressure on the board that rack. If you work this way you are face. I’ve seen many woodworkers having and using them correctly they fl atten the stock as it enters trying to fl atten a 6' to 8' length of attempt this feat. will put you light years ahead in the cutters. After it passes the wood that may be 9" or more wide. The correct procedure is to fi rst building your projects. knives, the board springs back to As you may have experienced, this cut your pieces into a rough size the right way to

To true your wood with machines, the steps you follow are Prepare Lumber critical. This time- tested procedure is the best way we by Glen Huey Glen is a contributing editor to Popular Woodworking. You’ll ﬁ nd more information know of. about Glen, his books and his DVDs at woodworkersedge.com.

70 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 Prepare Lumber

Photo by Al Parrish Grain runs downhill Thin end

Fat end

You will get a smoother cut if you start the piece with the “fat” end leading Squeeze an extra inch or two from your jointer by using it as you would to into the knives. Some say the grain is running “downhill.” create a rabbet, then remove the unsurfaced area with a plane.

Angling your stock to the blades at either the jointer or planer will provide Flattening stock at the jointer does not mean to completely surface the face. a smoother cut and lessen the wear on your knives by starting the cut at the This piece will sit fl at and stable when it is sent to the planer. point of the corner instead of the blunt end of the board. that is slightly longer and wider So the jointer is our next stop. We the piece a few times if the crook leading corner, I remove that area than their required finished are interested in obtaining one is extraordinary. at the jointer. If it’s on the trailing dimensions. Cut the boards to true edge that will run against our Once the lead end of the board edge, I cut it away as I rip the board where they are about 1" longer and table saw’s fence. Here, we can deal clears the edge of the outfeed parallel at the saw. at least 1⁄4" wider than the fi nished with the variations in our stock, table you will probably fi nd that Another option is to take the sizes. As you rough-size the boards, such as a bow over the length of the piece will not hit the jointer majority of the cuts at the trail- cut off checks on the ends. our stock (this is a common prob- knives again until you approach ing end of the board’s edge. This Begin by crosscutting the lem that appears in a good portion the trailing end of the board’s would be accomplished by plac- rough pieces to size. I do most of of our rough lumber). edge. This is the time to study ing the lead end past the jointer my rough crosscutting with a chop I begin working with any crook your board to determine the best knives and onto the outfeed table, saw. If you have a large shop, a in the boards by placing the con- path to take. then running the remainder of the chop saw with an oversized sup- vex crooked edge up as shown in You have three choices. First, board – cutting only the trailing port table works well. However, the opening photo for this arti- you can run the lead edge repeat- end of the edge. you also can use a jigsaw and make cle. Work the two ends that will edly over the knives until the Working in this manner would the cuts on your bench. Just lay out touch your jointer’s bed, leaving board’s edge touches the blades help remove defects at the lead the lengths, slide the section to be the center above the bed. If you over the entire length. This will end’s upper corner, or the trail- cut off the end of your bench, and experience a large crook as you result in the front portion of your ing end’s bottom corner when the cut the pieces you need. begin to push the stock into the board being narrower than the board is ripped to fi nal width at blades, the board might ram the rear area of the board. the table saw. One True Edge for Ripping edge of the outfeed table and come I would select this option if I Third, if there was no prob- With the rough pieces crosscut, to a stop. Do not force the piece had a problem area on my stock, lem area or blemish to cut away, you will want to rip them to width. of wood forward. Simply pull the either at the bottom corner of you would take equal amounts of However, you shouldn’t run a stock back from the blades and the board’s leading edge or at the material off of each end by run- rough edge against the fence of make a second attempt at joint- upper corner of the board’s trail- ning the piece completely over your table saw. It’s too dangerous. ing the edge. You may have to run ing edge. If it’s a problem at the the knives with each pass. If the

72 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 THE “FAT-TO-THIN” TECHNIQUE Flipping your stock end over end works double duty. It will keep the proper milling orientation in line and keep any moisture levels consistent from face to face. — GH crook is excessive you may fi nd it working face of the board. helpful to remove a few passes of Generally, the piece will have material at the leading edge and grain lines that begin somewhere then a few passes at the trailing up the end cut of the lumber and edge just to keep from running the run downhill (I call this the “fat” entire length over the knives with end) to the bottom face or the each pass. This will keep the stock “thin” end. (See picture at far equally wide at the ends while left.) Using this terminology, you removing the crook. should run the board from “fat to Next turn to the table saw. thin” as you make the cut. Place that jointed edge against the Set the depth of cut of your fence and rip the pieces to width, jointer to 1⁄1616" and run the piece cutting them 1⁄4" oversize. Some over the jointer knives so that one woodworking schools require that face is fl at or surfaced. If you were you rip all rough boards at the to run the piece in the opposite band saw to eliminate any chances orientation you might see areas of kickback. This is a good idea if that are being torn from the stock your lumber is especially bowed because the knives pick up the or twisted. Leave yourself even thin, tailing-off edges of the grain more width if you are roughing that have a tendency to tear. your piece using this method – say If you have material that is about a 1⁄2" – unlessunless youyou areare con-con- slightly wider than your jointer, fi dent on the band saw. you do not need to rip the piece in half in order to complete the Now Flatten One Face milling. See your owner’s manual With the pieces cut to rough size, on how to remove the blade guard the next step is to fl atten one face on your jointer. Make a pass over of each board. While it’s best to the knives. There will be a rough surface a board that is equal to or area left along the edge that the less than the width of your jointer knives didn’t hit. This can be easily knives, there are tricks that will removed with a handplane before help to expand that limit some- going to the thickness planer. Be what. But we’ll start with the stan- sure to then replace the guard dard method. according to your manual. First hold the piece on the bed so that the convex face is up. You Plane to Thickness should have two points of your The planer is the next stop and it piece resting on the jointer’s bed. will bring all the stock to the same This will keep your stock from thickness, essentially smoothing shifting around as much as you the opposite face from that sur- push it over the knives. If you were faced at the jointer. The knives to place the convex face down on on the planer are above the table the jointer bed, you could rock the and your stock, so you will need to piece from side to side as you make orient your piece to again run from a pass over the knives, spoiling “fat to thin” by looking at the edge your accuracy. grain in relation to the top face. You need to look at the grain Here is the trick: Keep your pieces in order to determine the correct in the same orientation as they direction to run the stock before were run over the jointer knives, making a pass over the knives. To because generally the last end over determine the grain direction of a the jointer is the fi rst end into the board’s face, you need to examine thickness planer. the grain along the board’s edge Adjust the cut by 1⁄1616" with or the area that is at 90° to the each pass through the planer.

popularwoodworking.com 73 When you get the second face pass over the knives in the same surfaced nearly flat (it will not “fat to thin” grain-orientation wiggle if placed on a tabletop) you technique. This guarantees that need to begin to fl ip the board so the edge is at 90° to both faces. that passes are taken from each face. This should be done while Cut to Finished Width maintaining the appropriate ori- We now have our pieces at S3S entation to the knives, meaning and are ready for the next step in to keep cutting with the “fat-to- milling, which is at the table saw. With the faces surfaced and parallel, a stop at the jointer ensures a 90° edge in thin” technique. To accomplish Choosing a blade for this opera- relation to those faces – even if you cleaned that edge at the beginning. this, the boards need to fl ip end tion can be mind numbing. You over end after each pass. can select a ripping blade that has The reason that this is so 24 teeth or choose a combination Right hand pushes important is because as you blade that has 40, 50 – even 60 forward remove material from your stock, teeth. There are blades designed you are exposing areas that have for plywood and melamine, and more moisture than the outermost some blades are Tefl on coated. You surfaces of the rough boards. If you may decide to use a different blade take more material from one face for each material – but I don’t. than the other, the board will tend I don’t like to spend the time to dry unevenly and is more apt to in my shop changing blades on Left hand cup or warp. Run the pieces while my tools. If I am doing that I presses stock incrementally adjusting the planer am not “making sawdust.” I also against fence cut to the desired thickness. don’t use my table saw to crosscut very often. Push sticks can help guide your stock as well as hold it tight to the fence and table. They are invaluable tools in your shop. Jointing an Edge (Again) I found that it’s best to use a When the two faces of the board 50-tooth combination blade. It are fl at and the board is the cor- will produce a nice cut when rip- Hand Placement One thing that is important rect thickness, we need to return ping, can handle crosscutting if and Push Sticks to remember is to allow the push to the jointer to run an edge. Wait I choose, and will not have to be Some woodworkers are fi ne work- stick to completely pass the blade a minute! Didn’t we already do changed out for most jobs. ing around the blade while others prior to releasing the push stick this before we cut the stock to Once you have selected a can barely place their hands fl at from the stock. rough sizes? You are correct, but blade, set the blade’s height for on the table. As your experience The last step in milling your that edge was run before we had ripping the stock. I bring the car- using the table saw grows you will lumber is to crosscut the piece to the two faces parallel and fl at. If bide teeth just above the thickness become more comfortable with its final size. The accuracy of a you decide to use that edge, I can of my material. This allows the your hand placement, as well as miter saw is certainly a good bet. assure you that it will not be at waste material to be cleared from with the width of boards that you But if you have the 50-tooth blade, 90° to either face of your board. the cut, helps keep the blade cool will cut without using any push the table saw can be used quite Remember that it was created and lessens the chances of burn- sticks. A common rule of thumb effectively. when the two faces were in the ing the stock as it is ripped. is that stock less than 6" wide From the jointer, to the thick- rough. That will cause problems Here is where you will fi nd that requires a push stick. ness planer, then back to the in many areas. the fi rst step we took, cutting our Position your stock at the saw jointer and fi nish at the table saw. If you decide to glue these pieces to slightly oversize, really and let your left hand hold the Milling wood with the grain ori- pieces into a panel you will not helps. If you attempt to rip a wide piece at the edge and against the entation set correctly will help to get a tight, square glue joint which board down the middle and it is fence with light pressure. Use improve your woodworking abil- could cause the panel to not be not entirely stable, you can get a push stick to guide the piece ities and your projects. You will fl at. If this is to be part of a door movement that causes the stock to through the blade. As you move begin to wonder why your experi- frame your mortise-and-tenon burn. This is less likely to happen forward, allow your left hand to ence with the less-than-fl at pan- joint might be problematic. with the pieces cut to just slightly continue moving with the piece els has disappeared and has been To alleviate any of these sce- over the fi nal width. until you reach the edge of the replaced with easy glue assemblies narios, run the edge at the jointer That’s because the amount of table saw’s throat plate. At that and more completed projects com- now. This should be done while material on the off fall side of the point, stop the forward progress of ing from your shop. You know the holding a face of the stock against blade will not have enough force your left hand and allow the stock saying: “It’s the little things that the jointer fence and making a in movement to bind the blade. to slide on as it is cut. make the difference.” PW

74 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 GREAT WOODSHOPS Modernica

21st-century beauty from Baltic birch and bent lamination.

s I looked at the “Modern” furniture Acoming to life in the Modernica workshops of brothers Frank and Jay Novak in Los Angeles, Calif., I couldn’t help comparing it to the work of another set of brothers, half a con- tinent away, and a century ago. The Stickley brothers (all ﬁ ve of them) were the modernists

of their era. Their Craftsman style rebelled authorthe byPhotos against the ornate neoclassic and Victorian styles favored at the beginning of the 20th century. Their quartersawn oak furniture incorporated overt structural details such The Modernica storefront (above) on Beverly as corbels, stopped and through mortises, Boulevard in Los Angeles is one of the Novak’s and exposed tenons. Their rectilinear shapes three retail outlets (Chicago and New York City were free of any excess ornamentation except are the others). The Los Angeles warehouse- for what occurred naturally in the material, district setting for their production facilities design and construction. The ﬁ nished prod- (right) offers proof that a sylvan setting is not a prerequisite for woodworking. ucts revealed not only the craftsmanship that went into each piece, but also the beauty, sim- plicity and utility of the design. What’s old is new again, and at the beginning of the 21st century, the Novaks continue to spread the gospel according to Modern. But they’re not religious fanatics or mar- tyrs to their cause. The skill level of their purists in the highest esteem, they are, after workers is matched to their tasks and the full all, running a business. Gustav Stickley, the spectrum of woodworking machines, from “purest” of the Stickley brothers, lacked his Computer Numeric Control (CNC) routers brothers’ business acumen and eventually to card scrapers, is employed. The Novaks declared bankruptcy. make no apologies for straying from a totally Where the Stickleys used quartersawn handcrafted product. Like the financially oak, now almost an elitist material, Moder- successful Leopold and John George Stickley nica furniture is all about Finnish or Baltic brothers, they use the most efﬁ cient combina- Birch plywood and bent laminations. Rather tion of people and tools to produce a quality than relegating it to drawer interiors, Frank product. Although they hold woodworking and Jay celebrate the inherent beauty and strength of the material. In a towering antique by John Hutchinson press, positioned just outside the workshops (this is sunny California), sheets of plywood Brothers Frank and Jay Novak discuss the John is an archictect and Popular Woodworking’s alchemy involved in translating a classic 1950s technical illustrator. Comments are laminated into still thicker slabs on their steel furniture leg into a modern bentwood or questions? John can be reached at way to becoming tabletops and legs. While I lamination for a bed they produce. [email protected]. was there, orders for one of Modernica’s latest

76 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 GREAT WOODSHOPS

The pressing matter of plywood glue-up into still- thicker slabs is handled by this Goliath. Outdoors? Hey, it’s California.

designs, the Tenon Table, were being fi lled. At fi rst glance, the Tenon Table is a decep- tively simple arrangement of a slab top and four A “classic” car destined for restoration, tented material storage rack, industrial-strength dust collector rectangular legs. Closer inspection reveals the and sunbathing dog all peacefully coexist in Modernica’s back lot. The privacy screen provided by some gently swaying trees makes it a true urban oasis. structural beauty of the joinery. The legs meet and engage the top with a slightly corbelled tenon housed in a progression of stopped- and ment the design for this article (see “Inside shape. A simple bending jig and a few pipe through-mortises. It’s something like fi ve Arts the Tenon Table” on page 82). clamps (backed up by ingenuity, know-how & Crafts tricks rolled into one rock-solid joint Bent laminations are another mainstay and an eye for design) spits out sample legs with no glue or mechanical fasteners. The last of Modernica woodworking. Arm/leg bents that will later be produced in a more auto- trick occurs where the legs meet the fl oor and for their C-Chair, with the appearance of mated manner. seems to have been borrowed from Califor- bleached ribs unearthed in an archeological nia wine-country barrel makers. The vertical dig, are stacked on dollies around the shop. In A simple bending/ plies are gathered and bound with a horizontal their prototypes workshop, a little bit of bent- gluing jig and a stack “hoop” consisting of multiple horizontal layers wood de-evolution is going on. The brothers of micro-plies are all it of through-mortised plywood. Although it’s currently offer a platform bed with V-shaped, takes (combined with a patent-pending joinery, Jay graciously allowed steel rod legs. They want to provide the option large dose of talent and me to take some measurements and docu- of laminated wood legs with the same classic ingenuity) to produce a bent leg prototype.

Modern sculpture? Yes and no. A pallet of C-Chair bent lamination arms/legs wait patiently for assembly, ﬁ nish and upholstery.

popularwoodworking.com 77 GREAT WOODSHOPS

The Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C., is known as our country’s attic. When it comes to mid-20th century modern, however, the Modernica Props warehouse (left) is a viable contender. We might chuckle at some of the artifacts in hindsight, but they were the stuff of dreams to the designers. Modernica’s Los Angeles showroom (above) displays the wide variety of skills needed to bring a complete line of furniture to market. The Novak’s rainbow collection of glass objects lining the walls are the fortunate survivors of more than one earthquake.

We all come to woodworking from differ- at least one of every conceivable artifact that the movie, you can tell your friends that you ent directions. For me, it was drafting board fi lled the childhood homes of baby boomers. read an article in Popular Woodworking byby a architectural design followed by a longing to I think I found my parents fi rst 7" Philco tele- guy who knows the guys who …. see parts come together in my own hands. vision sitting happily below a starburst clock Rather than the sylvan setting usually The Novaks fi rst set hands to hammer and and fl anked by a pair of black ceramic panther associated with woodworking enterprises, circular saw building props and sets for the lamps. Ah yes. (For the full nostalgic tour, the Modernica workshops are located on fi lm industry. Additional “former lives” in check out modernicaprops.net .) In addition an alley in what used to be a light-industrial acting, screen writing, painting and sculpture to the kitsch, the Novaks have assembled and warehousing section of Los Angeles. The helped develop the artisan/craftsman/busi- what must be the most extensive collection intimidating, intentionally rusted steel door nessman skills needed to make their latest of classic Mid-Century Modern furniture on that guards the entrance opens to a comfort- venture a success. the planet. Their for-rent-to-the-fi lm-indus- able, airy interior. As I moved through vari- When I’m looking for inspiration for a try library is housed in a multi-story building ous fabrication and shipping-and-receiving Modern piece, I begin my search on the Inter- adjacent to the Modernica factory. When I departments, I was surprised to find oases net. Not Frank and Jay. They run a “small side asked Jay to name the fi lm that best displayed of outdoor space amid a series of buildings. business” with the name Modernica Props. their collection, he instantly responded, “Men One was the outdoor employee lunchroom, It’s not a stretch to say that they warehouse in Black.” So the next time you see a rerun of furnished with some of the company’s classic fi berglass chairs. Another held a fenced area apparently guarded by their “junkyard dog.” But it wasn’t a guard dog after all; it was the matriarch of Modernica’s Downtown Dog Rescue program. To date, Dog Rescue has For a look at more Modernica pieces, visit modernica.net. adopted out hundreds of stray dogs and pup- pies, and more important, spayed and neutered hundreds of pets belonging to homeless and low-income people in the surrounding com- munity. But what about cats? Frank’s taken care of them too with his Kitty Couch – basi- C-Chair cally a chunk of laminated recycled cardboard with a wide groove down the middle. It looked a little too fi rm to be translated into a human- size version, but the offi ce cats love it. Like most successful workers of wood, the professional lives of Frank and Jay Novak are 99 percent perspiration and 1 percent inspiration. Fortunately, for the lovers of “Modern,” they keep “keepin’ on” for the magic in that

Photos courtesy of ModernicacourtesyPhotosof Grasshopper Chair and Ottoman set 1 percent. continued on page 82

78 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 GREAT WOODSHOPS

continuedcontinued ffromrom ppageage 7788 INSIDE THE TENON TABLE In a modestly equipped shop, an No closely guarded production techniques artisan pattern-routs here. The majority of activities in the Moder- the mortises for a nica production facilities are something you Tenon Table leg. might see in any woodworker’s shop.

��

Time is money, and Leg-receiving mortise the laborious task of on bottom of table cutting Tenon Table pieces from 4"-thick plywood is left to the Computer Numeric Control (CNC) router. �� Some hands-on reﬁ nement is needed before these chops are ready for market, but 90 percent of the battle is over.

��

�� Photo courtesy of ModernicacourtesyPhotoof Exploded view – leg & table top As seen in the Pasadena Museum of California Art (PMCA) California Design Biennial Exhibition, the bold statement of the Tenon Table plays well against the delicacy of Modernica’s Wire Chair with Pad. PW — JH

82 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 FLEXNER ON FINISHING Making Sense of Dyes

Don’t allow the packaging to cause you confusion.

hen I opened my furniture making and Wrestoration shop 30 years ago, there were two types of dye in wide use. I made great use of both, but for different situations. These two types are still the most widely available and useful today, but packaging has introduced some confusion, so a discus- sion using brand names is warranted. Before launching into comparisons, however, I need to explain what I mean by “dye,” because packaging makes the understanding of this term confusing also. authorthe byPhotos

Understanding Dye The two types of dye discussed in this article, in three types of packaging, are (left to right) concentrated liquid NGR, methanol-thinned liquid NGR and four containers of water-soluble powders. There are two common colorants used to color wood: dye and pigment. The difference is simple. Dye is a colored chemical that as is typical in the cans of stain you buy at coat or two after the stain has dried to make dissolves in a liquid. Pigment is a solid sub- home centers. (See “Understanding Stains,” the color darker. But because each coat builds stance (sometimes earth) ground into very issue #155.) on top of the previous, each additional coat small particles that suspend in a liquid. Dye The binder is a fi nish used to glue the pig- muddies the wood a little and can introduce is like coffee or tea; the color stays in solu- ment to the wood so the particles can’t be a weakness in the fi lm that might separate tion. It doesn’t settle. Pigment is the colorant wiped off after the solvent evaporates. All if knocked. in paint; it settles and has to be stirred into oil, varnish and water-based stains contain a In contrast, dye in a solvent with no binder suspension before using. binder. Oil stains contain oil; varnish stains doesn’t build. Each additional coat simply dis- When you apply a solution of dye to wood, contain varnish; water-based stains contain solves into the previous coat making it darker the color penetrates along with the liquid. water-based fi nish. and creating the same effect as if you had used Very dense woods such as maple and the dense The stains at home centers usually contain a more intense dye color in the fi rst place. areas of oak can be colored as dark as you want both pigment and dye. Some contain only Dyes in a solvent with no binder can create without muddying the wood. pigment. A few contain only dye. But they much deeper and richer colors in wood than When you apply a suspended pigment to all work the same because of the included dyes or pigments packaged with a binder. wood, the pigment stays on the surface. Wipe binder, and provide limited flexibility for Stains that contain only dye and a solvent off the excess stain and some pigment remains controlling color. (no binder) are called dyes or dye stains. lodged in recesses created by the grain of the You can thin the stain with the appropri- Dye has one big downside compared to wood (think of the coarse grain of oak and ate thinner (mineral spirits for oil and varnish pigment. Dye fades in sunlight and fl uores- how dark it gets) and sanding scratches. The stain, and water for water-based stain) to make cent light. So you shouldn’t use a stain that coarser the sanding scratches the more pig- the color lighter, or you can apply an extra contains dye outside, and you should think ment lodges and the darker the result. carefully before using the stain on objects that Confusion about dye in stains is caused by Bob Flexner will be placed near windows or in offi ces. by the different ways it is packaged. Dye can You can mix all brands of dye that thin Bob is the author of “Understanding Wood Finishing” be used together with just a solvent or it can and a contributing editor to Popular Woodworking. with the same solvent. So as long as the dye be used, usually in combination with pig- In 2007, he’ll be teaching three fi nishing classes at the is dissolved in water, for example, you don’t ment, together with a solvent and a binder, Marc Adams School of Woodworking. have to stay with one brand.

90 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 A dye stain is dye dissolved in a liquid. When applied to wood, the dye penetrates along with the liquid (left). An oil, varnish or water-based stain is dye and/or pigment in a solvent and binder. The binder limits the versatility Apply a dye the same as an oil, varnish or water-based stain. Apply a wet of the stain, keeping most of the colorant on the surface of the wood. So the coat of the dye to the entire surface using any application tool then wipe off wood doesn’t get as dark when you wipe off the excess stain (right). all or most of the excess before the dye dries.

Applying Dyes marily by manufacturers who add them to almost always packaged in liquid form because Apply a dye stain the same as oil, varnish and oil-based stains. they are usually dissolved in a solvent that water-based stains. Apply a wet coat using The two types of dye you will almost isn’t widely available – glycol ether. The dis- any tool (rag, brush, paint roller, spray gun) always use are powders that dissolve in water solved dye can then be thinned with water, and wipe off the excess, or most of the excess, and dye already in liquid form. In fact, this is alcohol or lacquer thinner (not mineral spirits before the stain dries. As long as you have the easiest way to separate and identify them: or other petroleum distillates). prepared the wood well – that is, sanded out water-soluble powders and liquids. These liquid dyes are widely available to all the machine marks – and as long as the Water-soluble powdered dyes have the the professional fi nishing trade as “non-grain- wood isn’t naturally prone to blotching, you longest history for use on wood. These dyes raising” (NGR) stains. If you shop at wood- will always get an even coloring. (often called aniline dyes because the fi rst working stores or from catalogs, you may be Clearly, the evaporation rate of the solvent dyes were made from aniline) were developed familiar with this stain as Solarlux from the in the dye is critical for determining the time in the late 19th century for use in coloring fi nish supplier Behlen. you have to remove the excess. Water-soluble textiles. By the end of the century, they were NGR dyes sold to the professional trade dyes provide the most time. All other dyes are used in factories to color wood. are thinned quite substantially with metha- diffi cult to remove quickly enough. In the mid-20th century, ways were found nol. They are ready to spray or add directly Fortunately, dye stains are more forgiving to modify (by “metalizing”) the dyes so they to any fi nish that thins with water, alcohol than oil, varnish or water-based stains. A wet are more fade-resistant. The emphasis is on or lacquer thinner. coat of dye tends to spread out and level bet- “more” because these dyes still fade far more Throughout my woodworking and res- ter so streaks show less. With practice, you rapidly than pigment. toration career I’ve found these two types can usually wipe, brush, roll or spray a dye Metalized, or “metal-complex” dyes are of dye (water-soluble and NGR) extremely onto wood and it will spread well enough to produce an even coloring without wiping off the excess. You can always get a second person to wipe right after you apply if you want to get the excess removed from a fast-drying dye.

Types of Dye There are four types of dye – but you would rarely use two of them: powdered dyes that dissolve in alcohol and powdered dyes that dissolve in petroleum-distillate solvent (called “oil-soluble dyes”). Alcohol-soluble dyes are used primarily by people doing touch-up on TheseThese areare typicaltypical ooil,il, varnishvarnish andand water-basedwater-based stains.stains. TheyThey areare widelywidely availableavailable andand easyeasy toto use,use, butbut furniture, and oil-soluble dyes are used pri- they can’t produce the rich, intense colors that a dye stain can.

popularwoodworking.com 91 FLEXNER ON FINISHING

To dissolve water-soluble dye pow- useful. I’ve used the water-soluble dye powders, begin by measuring out the ders to stain wood because these dyes provide amount of dye and water you want enough “open time” for removing the excess to use. Suppliers recommend ratios and getting an even coloring, and they are for achieving their standard col- easier to manipulate on the wood and avail- ors, which are reproduced in their able in many more useful wood-tone colors catalogs or on their web sites. But than NGR dyes. you can use any ratio to produce whatever color intensity you want. I’ve added liquid NGR dyes to shellac and Combine the water and dye powder lacquer to make toners for tweaking the color in a non-metal container, adding the on the wood when my staining didn’t give me dye to the water. Then stir until the exactly what I wanted. Good wood fi nishers dye is totally dissolved. If there is any and refi nishers fi nd toners extremely useful possibility of clumps of dye powder for matching colors. remaining, strain the solution. If you want to make an intense color, it’s better to use hot water because you can get more dye to dissolve. I’ve DYES AND AVAILABILITY never had a problem using tap water. W. D. Lockwood (water-soluble powders) • W. D. Lockwood 212-966-4046 or wdlockwood.com Manufacturers rarely tell you what Pigment colorants they use in their oil, varnish • Tools for Working Wood or water-based stains. To determine 800-426-4613 or this, let the stain sit undisturbed on a toolsforworkingwood.com shelf for a week or more. Then insert • Olde Mill a stirring stick (left) into the can. If 717-755-8884 or Dye the stick becomes colored near the oldemill.com surface, the stain contains dye. If you have to go to the bottom of the con- • Woodworker’s Supply Bare wood tainer to pick up colorant, the stain 800-645-9292 or woodworker.com contains pigment. If both, as in this (Privately labeled: J. E. Moser) example, the stain contains both dye • Lee Valley and pigment. 800-871-8158 or leevalley.com (Privately labeled: Lee Valley) Arti (water-soluble powders) • Highland Hardware 800-241-6748 or highland-hardware.com TransTint (concentrated NGR) and TransFast (water-soluble powders) Water raises the grain of wood, mak- • Homestead Finishing Products ing it feel rough and look dull (right 216-631-5309 or side of this panel). There are three homesteadfi nishing.com ways to deal with raised grain: Let it • Woodcraft happen with the water-soluble dye, 800-225-1153 or then carefully sand the wood smooth woodcraft.com with #400-grit sandpaper before applying the sealer coat; “bury” the • Rockler raised grain with the sealer coat, 800-279-4441 or then sand smooth; pre-wet the wood rockler.com with water, let the wood dry, sand it Methanol-Thinned NGR smooth, then apply the stain. • Many woodworking stores and most stores that supply the professional fi nishing trade

92 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006 The Confusion Non-grain-raising (NGR) dyes are now available to woodworkers in concentrated form – that is, with the glycol-ether dissolving solvent but without the methanol thinner. These dyes are very versatile because they can be thinned with water and used the same as a water-soluble powder dye, or they can be added to water-based fi nish, shellac or any finish that thins with lacquer thinner, to make a toner. The packaging can cause confusion, how- I stained this maple board with a Lockwood Though “metalized” dyes used in NGR stains ever. These concentrates are exactly the same water-soluble dye. After letting the stain dry, I are more fade resistant than water-soluble dyes, as the widely available NGR stains. In other applied a second coat to the left side and wiped they still fade rather quickly. The lower half of words, thin a concentrate with methanol and the right side with a wet cloth. Two applications this board was exposed to sunlight for six months you have Behlen Solarlux. So there are still deepen the color signifi cantly without muddying through two panes of glass in a west-facing win- just two very useful types of dye to choose the wood. Wiping with water removes a signifi - dow. From left to right: TransTint concentrated from – even though you might find three cant amount of color, lightening the wood. I fi nd NGR, Lockwood water-soluble, Arti water-soluble packaging options at the store. the Lockwood brand of dyes the most versatile and methanol-thinned NGR. Clearly, you wouldn’t because they are the easiest to lighten. want to use any of them in sunlight exposure. Choosing Among Options If you are making a toner using shellac or any ished object when replacing a part. Chang- if it is thinned with water.) other finish that thins with lacquer thin- ing the color means applying another color Also, if you are brushing water-based fi n- ner, the NGR type, whether concentrated that, when combined with the original, gives ish over a water-soluble dye that redissolves or thinned with methanol, is the only one you what you want. Doing this darkens the easily in water, you have to apply a barrier you can use. Personally, I fi nd myself using original color, however, so you often have to coat of another fi nish (shellac, varnish or the methanol-thinned NGR because a toner lighten it fi rst, or lighten the result. lacquer) or you will drag the color and cause almost always has to be thinned a great deal The downside of using a powder dye, of unsightly streaking. anyway to maintain control. Otherwise, you course, is that you have to go through the For more information about the dyes risk building the color on the wood too fast extra step of dissolving it in water. Both types available in most woodworking stores and and getting it too dark. of NGR dye are ready to use. (Keep in mind catalogs, go to the web sites of the two prin- If you are making a toner with water-based that though “NGR” is the acronym for “non- cipal suppliers at homesteadfi nishing.com fi nish, you can use either of the NGRs or the grain-raising,” this dye raises the grain of wood and wdlockwood.com. PW water-soluble powder. The NGRs are easier to use because you don’t have to do the dissolving. Only if you want one of the colors W. D. LOCKWOOD AND THE HISTORY OF WOOD DYES available in powder form should you choose that type. Dyes were developed in the late 19th century for use in the textile industry, but it didn’t take For staining wood by hand (not spraying), long for furniture manufacturers to realize they could use the dyes also. I fi nd the water-soluble powders, especially Early American and British reproduction furniture was very popular at that time. But the colors of the new wood didn’t match the colors of 100- or 200-year-old oxidized wood. The those from W. D. Lockwood, far more useful easiest and most transparent way to make the new wood the color of the old was with dye. than either of the NGRs for two reasons. First, W. D. Lockwood was started in 1895 in New York City by a chemist, a practicing wood the powder dyes are much easier to lighten fi nisher and a business entrepreneur, none of whom were named W. D. Lockwood. The com- right on the wood if you get the color too dark. pany has always been located in lower Manhattan and may have been the fi rst to adapt the Second, the dyes from Lockwood are available textile dyes for use on wood. in a much larger choice of colors, including Lockwood’s business model was (and still is) to buy dye powders from the large dye a great many that reproduce very accurately manufacturers such as BASF and blend them to the color specifi cations of furniture manufac- those colors we associate with traditional turers, many of whom were making reproduction furniture. furniture. (See story at right.) Hundreds of wonderful wood-tone formulas dating back to 1895 are contained in Lock- I fi nd the ability to easily lighten or change wood’s fi les, with about 85 water-soluble examples available to wood fi nishers. Examples of the color after the dye has dried invaluable the colors include: Tudor Oak, Flemish Brown, Jacobean, Antique Cherry, Sheridan Mahog- any and Phyfe Red. when trying to match the wood color to some- Lockwood also has many alcohol- and oil-soluble colors blended to imitate traditional thing else – for example, a “paint chip,” an wood tones. None are “metalized” NGR dyes. — BF existing piece of furniture or an already fi n-

popularwoodworking.compopularwoodworking.com 93 OUT OF THE WOODWORK GrumpyGrumpy OldOld MenMen

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t’s easier to care for exotic pets than Igrumpy old men. You try to keep them in a safe, climate-controlled environment, but given a chance they’ll stray into the woods with a gun or chain saw, drive to the hard- is t Lew ware store in a blizzard to buy sandpaper, n by Pa Illustratio or climb up on the roof to fi x shingles. A grumpy old man will spend four hours and fi ve dollars worth of gas driving Watch out if your grumpy old man has his “Watch your step, Dad,” he says. from one store to another, trying to save $2 own chain saw (a 40-pound 1962 model). Behind him shuffl es a wrinkled old man on a $19.95 circular-saw blade. “I remember He’ll want to borrow your 40 oz. “plastic toy with eyes sparkling behind thick trifocals. when you could get one of these for $3.95,” saw” to cut down all the trees in your yard. His pants are pulled up to his rib cage with he complains, as if it were your and your “See that moss growing on your shingles? suspenders. Bob buys what he needs and we generation’s fault. Too much shade,” he warns. carry it out to the pickup. Dad tries to help. Properly trained, a grumpy old man has A grumpy old man ages about seven years I worry he’ll trip and hurt himself or slip on many uses. He can tell you the best car to for every one of your own. You are lucky the ice outside. buy (a 1953 DeSoto). He can tell you to get to have one for more than 12 or 14 years. The old man turns to me. “I ran a mill a riding mower so you’ll never have to mow My own dad died when I was a teenager back in ’47. ’Forty-seven to ’53. No wait … your own lawn again. “Kids these days are so I never got the chance to raise my own ’46 to ’52 … shucks, don’t make no differ- too lazy to use push mowers,” he grumbles as grumpy old man, but I’ve enjoyed meeting ence. If I had one of these new band mills I’d he adjusts the blade height. many older woodworkers during my years get a lot more wood out of those logs. I’d get A grumpy old man will make one iden- selling lumber. When middle-aged men buy one if I could still roll the logs. Stupid tick- tical bookcase for each child, then one for lumber from my business, they sometimes er’s going on me.” He thumps his heart with each grandchild. “I ought to charge for the bring their elderly fathers with them. his fi st, then jerks his head toward his son. lumber, but kids want everything for free,” A customer opens the door. “Hey Bob,” I “Bob’s into computers.” He sounds disap- he complains. Once everyone has a book- say. “You leave your hair at home today?” pointed. “I ran a 24" ironwood log through case, he’ll turn out grandfather clocks. “It’s “Ha ha, Pete,” he replies. “Yours looks the mill once. You don’t see ’em that big very time your kids learned to read a real clock fuller and thicker than last time. What’s often. You ever see one that big?” instead of those electronic things,” he mut- your secret?” “Almost,” I nod. ters. He will paint your house, fi x your car “Titebond III.” “It pulled the motor right off the mount.” (when did they start putting engines in Bob is still holding the door open. He laughs. sideways?), sharpen your knives, planes and “Come on, Dad.” Bob beckons Dad into chisels – all the while telling you how lazy by Peter Sieling the truck and drives away. I think to myself, his children and grandchildren are (his Peter owns Garreson Lumber Co., a hardwood “That looks like fun, having an old man to dad taught him to sharpen tools at age 6). supplier, in Bath, New York. tote around.” Then I go and pet my dog. PW

96 POPULAR WOODWORKING November 2006