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MMB PP FROMMER's SHANGHAI DAY by DAY NOV 2011-Cover.Jpg S h a n Hua W G D x a u a i i t o n sheng zhen n Lu s m P u Bund n u L Jade Buddha Hengfeng LuHANZHONG Historicala Huangpu d u o QufLu Bus Station u Y n Temple RD MuseumPark g N N o PUDONG Oriental Pearl a r n Lu BUND n t X me Lu h i ia TV Tower L z X / XINZHA Lujiazui u S a o C RD n The Park u h g g HUANGPU Riverside t an Sh Datian h e B u Bund Ch n zh Lu u e iu EAST Park Century Ave. im E g L N LUJIAZUI g i Holy Trinity a x d L NANJING RD Lujiazui Xi Lu n p on JING’AN en E u u g D r Cathedral hu Lu e ng B iji ng Super Brand s e e Do a Taixing Lu l s B Central Wuging Lu r i PEOPLE’S SQ L w Lu L n Dong Mall u u FuzhouHenan Lu u a a g L u Lu Hospital y an ng Jiujiangn kLuo Renji R y ji a Shanghai ( ng H Yan’ iv Jia e e n Lu Tunne F a Hospital e l r World Financial e g Lu Shanghai s n N don Zhong Lu v g i gning Lu uan d Lu a Shanghai MoCA G Museum of e Center i t Z P X e Shanghai h r H P d Natural History o o Art n u m u WEST ) People’s Urban Planning a m g n e NANJING Museum sh g n in jing Park Exhibition Hall a p a g ei S i Dong Lu min Lu n u d B en L RD h R Gucheng R e Shanghai D u i o iv u m Ningha Park n e i L g r X e Grand Theater Fuyou Lu n Shanghai E ng Shanghai Z r ji h an Y Yuyuan L N Concert Hall Fuyou Rd o u Lu i Museum ai n ih L Garden e u Mosque g Shanghai W u Square L ng DASHIJIE h Exhibition Dagu Lu o H u Park Zh enan a City God Yan’an Zhong Lu g Center lin Shuguang Jin u Jing’an Yan’an Freeway (elevated) Temple Huaihai Hospital L Paramount SOUTH u xing L TempleJING’AN Fu nel R Bird, Fish, Flower & n Ballroom HUANGPI Park Nan Lu Tu TEMPLE u Jing’an Sha g D Z i Insect Market Fuxin ong j RD L h i u n o Park u n u L an W l Y G Ju Z g i Antiques a xi Nan Lu Shikumen Open u h s L u h i L o m ang u g Market a u Taipingqiao n L House Museum a on n le Zh g g i L Park qi N n h a ha u h Si Xintiandi u a Nan L Huai a n C nan LAOXIMEN Confucius Lu L N SOUTH Z L X u u C Do Xiangyang o h Temple C Zhong i o h n SHANXI RD L r z ghu L u h u Fuxing t xing a n n Lu a Park h u g e e F n n u u h gw - g n u L n u Park S a g a h L g S g n o N s a i Lu L h h fe Zhong Lu Huashan d u h n a ua nc u He u a n a Shanghai u N t h Hospital h L L s N u International u F a Lu a Zhou Enlai’s r u ng n LUWAN Arts Center Zho e H g S Former Residence e Lu Ruij L in w Dongjiadu n Lu Fux ha u LUJIABANG Dingxiang uyua a W X Cathedral an y in E nguo Dong RD Garden CHANGSHU ia ia (e J Fuxing Xi Lu RD ng x ngjia Lu l Lu i Yo r Lu e g Na v y n Xingguo Lu Shanghai Arts & a a a b Lu t jia n u n e L u Crafts Museum g d iyuan L u Tai L Lu !"#$%&'''$$%(()*+,-./01,!'234556667 a ) NANPU Nanpu Lu N Taikang Road Hunan g g Lu h "#$%&'''$$%(()*+,-./01,!'234556667 n n L yu s n o a a Art Center BRIDGE Bus Station i a n e k an L Liyuan Park u u L Lu L u ai Zh u i iet W aih Shanghai o X X W u gu u n H Library Hengsh Jia H Damuqiao L X u n i a i i Lu a D p X n s R a h g g b n jia u p a ianguo y o u a J ha i n K a Z j i n n u famous Xintiandi. frankly—better version of the more It’s a rawer, earthier, and— the coolest neighborhood in town. cession has quietly morphed into in a quiet corner of the French Con- is my pick. though Mr. & Mrs. Bund, at no. 18, Aqua at no.6 are all suitably showy, on the Bund at no. 5, and Sun with addresses. Jean Georges at no. 3, M strip contains several standout 4 3 2 1 5 train. been a workaday airport commuter what, in any other city, would have thing peculiarly Shanghainese about the $1billion mark, there’s some- and a construction bill that ran over ing top speed of 431kph (268mph), great for people watching. it’s else, nothing If egalitarian. ably gantuan Super Brand Mall is reason- malls tend to favor the elite, the gar- other Where Shanghai. in expensive brand-shopping make to combine super-rich the of rise the and RMB, top choices. Hyatt and the Le Royal Méridien are a cocktail glass in hand. The Grand 360-degree views of Shanghai with Tower and soak up stunning hassle of the Oriental Pearl TV hotel lounge. fang. Mall. date. here are 15 of its most exciting outposts: mouth of the Yangtze River. Shanghai is China’s new frontier, and dent past are again luring the masses toward the bright lights at the through with glory, glamour, and greed. Echoes of a rich and deca- C Shopping at the Super Brand Dressing up for a Bund dinner Sipping cocktails at a sky-high Riding the Maglev. Streetwalking around Tianzi- A precipitous rise, a crashing fall, and a stirring comeback shot hinese it may be, but Shanghai’s story is pure Hollywood: High taxes, the strengthening strengthening the taxes, High A series of interlinking alleys Shanghai’s posh riverside See p 7, See Chapter 6, (p 101). See Chapter 7, (p 108). Shun the crowds and 1 . See p 13, With a thrill- See p 78. 1 . Intersection of Time. hai at a jazz bar. along Yan’an Lu. and 10pm when the city sparkles. nightscape. Take a drive between 7 cent views of the city’s neon fi super highway offering lumines- concessions is now an elevated sci- burbling brook that divided colonial 6 Experience the Maglev. 8 7 See p 25, Chapter 8, (p 124). retains that seductive edge. establishments, but the music Jazz Bar are all now family-friendly Fairmont Peace Hotel’s legendary the House of Blues and Jazz, and the to sleaze during the 1930s. JZ Club, sin city, jazz became the soundtrack stunts in this breathless and modern choreography and terrifying acrobatics are blended with elegant Taking an after-dark drive Taking VIP seats for ERA: Searching for swinging Shang- 7 . In the East’s great What was once a Old-style See Moments 15 Favorite Favorite 15 3 &8''8''666'9)&6:; 14 Full-Day Tours The Best A polychrome glazed pottery statue of a Heavenly Guardian on display at the Shang- hai Museum. gateways, and marble flooring lends the one-time Shanghai Race Club and 7.30pm—you can chill out here the feel of a European national gal- after a long afternoon in the nearby lery, and displays include both tradi- museums. 231 Nanjing Xi Lu (inside tional and contemporary painting. People’s Park). y 021/6318-0220. Don’t miss the period photographs www.barbarossa.com.cn. $$$$. and stunning colonial fittings in the stairwell (by the entrance to the res- 6 Nanjing Dong Lu. Sliding by taurant, a worthwhile lunch stop). If People’s Park’s northern edge is alternative art is your thing, try the Shanghai’s most famous street, for- Museum of Contemporary Arts merly the central thoroughfare of (MOCA) (see p 46, 8) located in the International Settlement. Nan- the park’s former greenhouse. jing Dong Lu, east of the park, is a Exhibits change regularly but the visually stunning fusion of neon- offerings are invariably fun, youth- washed advertising hoardings and ful, and exuberant. The third floor elegant colonial architecture. It’s an restaurant, Moca on the Park, is essential after-dark stroll, though be good for an afternoon coffee or aware that this is a favorite spot for cocktail and has great views across loitering scam artists. Ignore all the tree line. @ 90 min. See mini- approaches and continue all the tour p 85, 4. way to the river. @ 1 hr. Metro: People’s Square (Lines 1, 2, and 8) Tucked away within the greenery of and East Nanjing Rd. (Line 2). People’s Park, 5 + Barbarossa is three stories of maharajah chic filled 7 +++ Mr.
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