Soleil Royal the Flagship of King Louis XIV Pack 12

Total Page:16

File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb

Soleil Royal the Flagship of King Louis XIV Pack 12 BUILD THE Soleil Royal The flagship of King Louis XIV Pack 12 www.model-space.com Contents Assembly Guide Page Stage 128: The third lamp 279 Stage 129: The bowsprit 281 Stage 130: The bowsprit 283 Stage 131: The foremast 285 Stage 132: The foremast 287 Stage 133: The mainmast 289 Stage 134: The mainmast 291 Stage 135: The mizzenmast 293 Stage 136: The mizzenmast 295 Stage 137: Sails and flags 297 Stage 138: Sails and blocks 299 Stage 139: Sails and blocks 301 Stage 140: Sails and flags 303 Editorial and design by Continuo Creative, 39-41 North Road, London N7 9DP. Published in the UK by De Agostini UK Ltd, Battersea Studios 2, 82 Silverthorne Road, London SW8 3HE. Published in the USA by De Agostini Publishing USA, Inc.121 E. Calhoun Street, Woodstock, IL 60098. All rights reserved © 2016 Warning: Not suitable for children under the age of 14. This product is not a toy and is not designed or intended for use in play. Items may vary from those shown. Assembly Guide Stage 128 The third lamp A 4 1 2 5 6 3 A B 1 Lantern fret. 2 Lantern top. 3 Lantern base. 4 Lantern centre. 5 Deadeyes 4mm. 6. Brown thread 0.8mm. 128A Remove the two parts, A and B, from the lantern fret. File away any rough edges. B A C 128B Use the body of a marker pen to bend part A, creating a 128C Apply instant adhesive to the bottom edge of part A, and cylinder (inset). Apply some instant adhesive to the lantern top then fix the lantern centre onto it. and then fix part A onto it. E D B B 128E Apply glue to the bottom edge of the lantern centre and 128D Use a smaller cylindrical or conical object to shape part B then fix part B onto it. When dry, glue the lantern base onto the into a cone. end of part B. 279 F G 128F Follow Steps A-E to assemble the other lanterns from the 128G Retrieve 12 eyepins and the two launches. Make a small parts received in Stages 126 and 127. hole in the centre of each of the oarlocks and glue an eyepin into each hole. H I 128H Cut the eyepins down so that they project only 2mm 128I Retrieve the boat support frame and glue both launches above the oarlocks. onto the chocks, as shown. J K 128K This stage is now complete. Keep any materials you haven’t used, as they will be needed in future stages. 128J Glue the frame onto the main deck, with the boats facing forward, as shown. 280 Assembly Guide Stage 129 The bowsprit IMPORTANT NOTICE 2-6-8-13 1 18-22 C 5-7-12 15-21 10-17 From this stage on, the numbers in the parts photos refer to those listed on the 1:1 scale mast diagrams supplied Bowsprit Plan. 1 Bowsprit. 2 Cleats. 5 Bowsprit top with Stages 129, 131, 133, 135 and 136. The diagrams will trestletrees. 6 Bowsprit top crosstrees. 7 Bowsprit also be referred to in the steps. top. 8 Bowsprit top ribs. 10 Lower mast. 12 Bowsprit topmast trestletrees. 13 Bowsprit topmast crosstrees. 15 Bowsprit topgallant mast. 17 Spritsail yard. 18 Battens. 21 Bowsprit topyard. 22 Battens. A C 4mm blocks. 129A Take the bowsprit (1) and cut it to match the length of the C one shown on the Bowsprit plan. 129C When you have tapered the end to the correct size, smooth the piece with fine-grain sandpaper. B D 129B The masts should be slightly tapered. To obtain this difference in diameter between the two ends, rotate one end of the mast under a sanding block, as shown above, pressing down harder on the block as it gets closer to the end of the mast. Regularly check the piece against the plan to avoid overworking the wood. 129D Check that the length, angles and tapering of the bowsprit are all correct before proceeding. 281 E F 7 8 2 129F Remove the bowsprit top (7) from the fret received in this stage. Prepare the top ribs (8) from the strip received in this stage. Smooth the parts with sandpaper and then glue them together, as shown. 129E Prepare the six cleats (2) and then glue them into position on the bowsprit. Make sure to check against the plan H for correct size, shape and placement. G 129H Retrieve all remaining gun port lids, eyepins and 3mm rings. Pass the rings into the loops of the eyepins. Make a small hole near the top of each of the lids, and pass an eyepin through 129G Here’s how the bowsprit and the top should look at the end of this stage. it, up to the loop, then trim off the end of the pin. Hold one of the lids above one of the gun ports, at an angle of around 45 degrees, as shown above. Glue the lid and pin in place, then repeat the process for the other lids and ports. I J 129J This stage is now complete. Keep any materials you haven’t used, as they will be needed in future stages. 129I Fit two gun port lids to the two ports at the bow. 282 Assembly Guide Stage 130 The bowsprit A 11 4-19-20 39 B 9 C D 14 33 16-44-79-110 5 38 130A Retrieve the fret supplied with Stage 129 and extract the 4 Slings. 9 Mast cap. 11 Sprit topmast. 14 Mast cap. two longer bars. Smooth them with sandpaper and paint the 16. 44. 79. 110. Top caps. 19 Parrel ropes. 20 Braces. edges with the same stain as used for previous wooden parts. B Lines. C. Blocks. D Double blocks. 33 Fore topmast. 38 Fore topgallant mast. 39 Stops. C 7 B 6 5 130C Retrieve the top (7) prepared in the previous stage. Place parts 5 and 6 onto the underside, as shown, and trim the ends to fit within the edge of the top. Correctly position the parts 130B Retrieve the 2 x 2mm brown wooden strip supplied with according to the plan, and then glue them together. Stage 129 to make the crosstrees (6). Cut it into three lengths, as shown by figure B on the plan. Glue the two trestletrees (5) over the three crosstrees (6), as shown above and as indicated on the plan. E D 10 3 10 130E Use a file to adjust the top end of the lower mast so 130D Remove the knee (3) from the fret received with Stage that it will engage properly with the mast cap (9). Lower the 96. Smooth the edges and paint with wood stain, then glue larger (rear) hole of the top (7) onto the mast, so that the it and the lower mast (10) to the end of the bowsprit in the space for the top mast is in front of it (see step F), then glue position shown on the plan. the parts together. 283 F G 11 9 12 130G Remove the two remaining trestletrees (12) from the fret, and prepare in the same way as the others. 130F Prepare the topmast (11) as per the plan. Place the cap (9) onto the top of the lower mast (10) and then lower the topmast (11) down through the front holes of the cap and top. Glue the parts together. I H 12 13 15 11 130H Aseemble the topmast trees (12 and 13) according to the plan (figure A). J 130I Prepare the topgallant mast (15), and shape the end of the topmast to fit the cap (14). Lower the upper trees onto the topmast (11), then pass the topgallant mast into the forward 16 hole of the trees. 14 15 K 130K This stage is now complete. Keep any materials you haven’t used, as they will be needed in future stages. 130J Lower the cap (14) over the topgallant mast and onto the topmast. Glue these parts together and then glue the top cap (16) onto the end of the topgallant mast. When dry, paint the entire bowsprit with wood stain. 284 Assembly Guide Stage 131 The foremast A 45 51 24 46 23 31 23 28-30 26-27-29-34-35-40 131A Shape the foremast (23) according to the plan. Foremast Plan. 23 Foremast. 24 Rubbing paunch and cheeks. 26 Bibs. 27 Foretop trestletrees. 28 Foretop crosstrees. 29 Foretop. 30 Foretop ribs. 31 Chock. C 34 Bibs. 35 Fore topmast trestletrees. 40 Fore topgallant trestletrees. 45 Fore yard. 46 Battens. 51 Fore topmast yard. 29 B 27 24 26 23 131C Remove the foretop (29), the trestletrees (27) and the bibs (26) from the fret received with this stage. Smooth the parts with sandpaper and paint the edges with wood stain. 131B Prepare the rubbing paunch and cheeks (24) so they E match those shown on the plan. Glue them to the foremast (23). The rubbing paunch should be positioned slightly higher. Sand the assembly and paint with clear varnish. D 30 28 27 29 131E Recover one of the spools of 0.5mm brown thread. 131D Use figure A on the plan to assemble the foretop (29). Prepare the eight bindings (25). Glue the end of one of the Smooth the assembly with sandpaper and then paint with lengths to the mast, in the position shown on the plan, then clear varnish. wrap it around the mast five times, gluing the other end in place.
Recommended publications
  • Lexique Nautique Anglais-Français
    ,Aa « DIX MILLE TERMES POUR NAVIGUER EN FRANÇAIS » Lexique nautique anglais français© ■ Dernière mise à jour le 15.5.2021 ■ Saisi sur MS Word pour Mac, Fonte Calibri 9 ■ Taille: 3,4 Mo – Entrées : 10 114 – Mots : 180 358 ■ Classement alphabétique des entrées anglaises (locutions ou termes), fait indépendamment de la ponctuation (Cet ordre inhabituel effectué manuellement n’est pas respecté à quelques endroits, volontairement ou non) ■ La lecture en mode Page sur deux colonnes est fortement suggérée ■ Mode d’emploi Cliquer sur le raccourci clavier Recherche pour trouver toutes les occurrences d’un terme ou expression en anglais ou en français AVERTISSEMENT AUX LECTEURS Ce lexique nautique anglais-français est destiné aux plaisanciers qui souhaitent naviguer en français chez eux comme à l’étranger, aux amoureux de la navigation et de la langue française; aux instructeurs, moniteurs, modélistes navals et d’arsenal, constructeurs amateurs, traducteurs en herbe, journalistes et adeptes de sports nautiques, lecteurs de revues spécialisées, clubs et écoles de voile. L’auteur remercie les généreux plaisanciers qui depuis plus de quatre décennies ont fait parvenir corrections et suggestions, (dont le capitaine Lionel Cormier de Havre-Saint-Pierre qui continue à fidèlement le faire) et il s’excuse à l’avance des coquilles, erreurs et doublons résiduels ainsi que du classement alphabétique inhabituel ISBN 0-9690607-0-X © 28.10.19801 LES ÉDITIONS PIERRE BIRON Enr. « Votre lexique est très apprécié par le Commandant Sizaire, autorité en langage maritime. Je n’arrive pas à comprendre que vous ne trouviez pas de diffuseur en France pour votre lexique alors que l’on manque justement ici d’un ouvrage comme le vôtre, fiable, très complet, bien présenté, très clair.
    [Show full text]
  • Tips of the Trade
    Sail Handling and Neil Pryde Custom Fittings he following are some of the special Neil Pryde fittings which every boat owner should be Tfamiliar with. Genoa Sausage Bags Neil Pryde Race and Premier Series sails are supplied with genoa sausage bags as standard. These bags make repacking easier and quicker. The bags have 2 full-length zips on top of the bag which run forward and aft from the clew to the tack. Before you attempt to put the sail in the Figure 11 bag make sure both sliders are at one end of the bag. Then pack the sail inside and slide one zip from one end to the other. Do not take it off the end of the bag. You can then throw the bag around quite freely and it will not come undone. When you wish to hoist, place the bag on the foredeck and run the zipper off at the front. The whole zip will then break open freely and the sail will be in position on the foredeck ready for use. (figure 11) Dousing Sock The dousing sock can be used with either a asymmetric spinnaker or a regular spinnaker. To hoist the sail, attach the halyard to the head ring on the sail and attach the tack downhaul line to the tack ring. It should then be passed through a turning block on the deck near the bow, and then to a cleat or winch somewhere near the cockpit. The tack will initially fly approximately five feet above the deck, so allow this amount of slack in the line.
    [Show full text]
  • Peter and the Starcatcher Glossary
    PETER AND THE STARCATCHER GLOSSARY Avast - nautical term meaning stop, cease or desist from whatever is being done. A Vast Behind "stop being behind (the others)" To go about is to change the course of a ship by tacking. Ready about, or boutship, is the order to prepare About for tacking. Hard About is with speed and force. Aft Aft, in naval terminology, is an adjective or adverb meaning, towards the stern (rear) of the ship Against the Grain against the tide; into the waves Al dente in Italian "to the tooth"; to cook something until it is soft but still firm Amidship in the middle of the ship Antipodes Islands of New Zealand, which is the antipodes of London. Antipodes Geographically, antipodes is the point on the earth's surface which is diametrically opposite to it. ArChipelago a chain, cluster, or collection of islands Armada a fleet of warships Arrowtooth a type of flounder fencing term: the initial offensive action made by extending the sword arm and continuously threatening Attaque the valid target of the opponent. Ay de mi. Que Demonio. Debo protestar Oh my stars. That demon. I must protest Balestra fencing term: a forward hop or jump, typically followed by an attack such as a lunge or fleche. Be British maintain a stiff upper lip; an inability to complain Bilge the lowest compartment on a ship, below the waterline, where the two sides meet at the keel. Boo slang: boyfriend or girlfriend Bounding Main open sea Brighton town on the south coast of England BVDs a brand of men's underwear, founded in 1876.
    [Show full text]
  • Building Outrigger Sailing Canoes
    bUILDINGOUTRIGGERSAILING CANOES INTERNATIONAL MARINE / McGRAW-HILL Camden, Maine ✦ New York ✦ Chicago ✦ San Francisco ✦ Lisbon ✦ London ✦ Madrid Mexico City ✦ Milan ✦ New Delhi ✦ San Juan ✦ Seoul ✦ Singapore ✦ Sydney ✦ Toronto BUILDINGOUTRIGGERSAILING CANOES Modern Construction Methods for Three Fast, Beautiful Boats Gary Dierking Copyright © 2008 by International Marine All rights reserved. Manufactured in the United States of America. Except as permitted under the United States Copyright Act of 1976, no part of this publication may be reproduced or distributed in any form or by any means, or stored in a database or retrieval system, without the prior written permission of the publisher. 0-07-159456-6 The material in this eBook also appears in the print version of this title: 0-07-148791-3. All trademarks are trademarks of their respective owners. Rather than put a trademark symbol after every occurrence of a trademarked name, we use names in an editorial fashion only, and to the benefit of the trademark owner, with no intention of infringement of the trademark. Where such designations appear in this book, they have been printed with initial caps. McGraw-Hill eBooks are available at special quantity discounts to use as premiums and sales promotions, or for use in corporate training programs. For more information, please contact George Hoare, Special Sales, at [email protected] or (212) 904-4069. TERMS OF USE This is a copyrighted work and The McGraw-Hill Companies, Inc. (“McGraw-Hill”) and its licensors reserve all rights in and to the work. Use of this work is subject to these terms. Except as permitted under the Copyright Act of 1976 and the right to store and retrieve one copy of the work, you may not decompile, disassemble, reverse engineer, reproduce, modify, create derivative works based upon, transmit, distribute, disseminate, sell, publish or sublicense the work or any part of it without McGraw-Hill’s prior consent.
    [Show full text]
  • OWNERS MANUAL Introduction
    OWNERS MANUAL Introduction his user manual is designed to help you to get the most from your Neil Pryde sails. Whether Tyou are a cruising or racing sailor, investment in sails is an important aspect of your sailing program. We want you to have all the information you need to get top performance. Neil Pryde operates from a centralized loft. We rely on an extensive worldwide network of sail consultants to service our customers needs. Our consultants will help you get the most from your relationship with Neil Pryde. If, after reading this booklet, you have further questions, please don’t hesitate to contact either your local Neil Pryde consultant or the International Design and Sails Office at: Neil Pryde Sails 354 Woodmont Road #18 Milford, Conn. 06460 U.S.A. Tel: (203) 874-6984 FAX: (203) 877-7014 On-Line E-Mail: [email protected] On The Web: http://www.neilprydesails.com Neil Pryde Terminology n this discussion we use many technical terms with very specific meanings, While most are Istandard terms, other sailmakers sometime use alternative terms. Glossary of Terms Halyards and cunninghams Halyards are lines used to pull the sails up and to adjust the position of the draft (sail camber, curvature Figure 1 or “fullness”) fore or aft in the sail. They don’t significantly alter whether the sail is more full or less full. More tension on the halyards brings the draft of the sail forward; less tension drops it back. (figure 1) Cunninghams are down haul lines for fine tuning luff tension after the halyard is tightened and cleated off.
    [Show full text]
  • The Aerojunk by Paul Mckay
    The Aerojunk by Paul McKay May I introduce the AeroJunk, a sail that looks like a standard Bermudan Rig but works like and is a Junk Sail? Some junk sails can look pretty strange and would not appeal to the average sailor. With this design I would hope to gather a few converts when they realise just how safe and easy it is to sail. The standard 7/8th Bermudan Rig shape means that only one halyard is needed and it keeps the main/jib balance at 68/32% for weather-cocking. What is unusual is that the design uses a separate jib and main sail for efficiency enclosed within simple-to-make wishbone battens. (Like a less complicated Split-sail Junk) The Sails Both sails are cut and sewn completely flat – no broad-seaming. It is the battens that produce the shape. There are a number of brass eyelets fitted to the sails but each one has a job to do. The Jib is bolted to the battens through the luff at each batten front. On the boom only, there is a sliding cross-rod in front of the mast. The jib foot/leech eyelet runs along this rod on each tack to prevent the jib lifting. The jib headboard is centred on a cross-rod in front of the mast on batten 5. The main is bolted through the leech at each batten. The mainsail luff is centred behind the mast on cross–rods spaced with pieces of plastic waterpipe. There is an additional eyelet approx 75mm behind the luff eyelet at The Aerojunk planform the boom and battens 1 & 2.
    [Show full text]
  • How to Rig a Cormorant
    HOW TO RIG A CORMORANT Page 1 of 6 How to Rig a Cormorant Instructions adapted from Cormorant Owner’s Handbook 1 Ensure that peak halyard, throat halyard and topping lift are attached to the mast as shown in Fig. 1. 2 Set-up the boat as level as possible, either on the ground or on a launching trolley/trailer with the bow head-to-wind. 3 Remove gaff, boom and any other loose items from under the foredeck which might obstruct the mast slot or deck socket. 4 Have a good look down the mast slot to view the mast socket. Forward of this socket is an inspection hatch to the buoyancy tank which should, of course, be closed tight! 5 Raise the mast to a vertical position alongside the boat and, having ensured that the boom gooseneck fitting faces aft, and using both hands, lift the mast foot over the deck and down through the mast slot so that it engages in the socket below the deck. Rock the mast a little to ensure that the foot has truly dropped home into the socket. (You might find it easier to stand on the foredeck to do this. EB). 6 Next, attach the boom to the mast by introducing the pin to the mast jaws as in Fig. 2, then attach the mainsheet assembly to the strop at the aft end of the boom, and also to the traveller on the mainsheet track as shown in Fig. 3. Lock the traveller centrally by screwing down the stops on the traveller hard against the traveller each side.
    [Show full text]
  • Types of Rigs
    Types of Rigs Rigs and Rigging Sloop Ketch Yawl Gaff Cutter Schooner Toronto Brigantine Topsail Schooner Brig Brigantine Barque Barquentine Fully Rigged Ship 1 2 Gaff Rig vs Marconi (Bermuda) Rig Sloop • One mast • Fore and aft rigged • One head sail • This is the most commonly seen rig Bermuda rigged sail Gaff rigged sail these days Spray – sailed around the world in -Sail only has one halyard -Sail has a peak and a throat halyard 1895 by Joshua Slocum, who wrote - Less sail area -Greater sail area for same height “Sailing Alone Around the World” - Easier to set -Requires more people to set 3 4 Cutter Schooner • One mast • Two or more masts • Fore and aft rigged • Rigged Fore and Aft • Forward mast is shorter or • More than one headsail, usually with a equal to after mast(s) headrig as well • Can be gaff rigged – Bluenose • Can be Bermuda rig – Challenge • Grand Banks Fishing Schooner Bluenose II maiden voyage 1963 Maurice Crosby 5 6 Topsail Schooner Ketch • Two or more masts • Two masts • Gaff rigged sails on all • Fore and aft rigged lower masts, square sails on some masts • Mizzen mast forward of • A version with raked masts, the rudder post (mizzen called the Baltimore provides some drive) Clipper, was much favoured by privateersmen • Aft mast is shorter than in the War of 1812 (Pride of the forward mast Baltimore II) (compare to Schooner) Ketch in Stormy Weather V. Howes 1896 http://www.pride2.org/history/index.php 7 8 Yawl Barque • Two masts • Three or more • Fore and Aft rigged masts • Mizzen mast aft of the • All masts except
    [Show full text]
  • KEELBOAT SPINNAKER STANDARD Course Description This Course Focuses on the Efficient and Safe Use of Flying Sails
    Effective Date: January 1, 2019 KEELBOAT SPINNAKER STANDARD Course Description This course focuses on the efficient and safe use of flying sails. The course may focus on the approach to the use of one or more of the class of sails that fly forward of the forestay. Basic knowledge of manoeuvres and techniques may be developed in a single session of a few hours. Basic competence will often require a number of sessions. Objective To be able to sail safely as crew of a sloop rigged keelboat 6 to 12 meters while working with a spinnaker in light to moderate wind and sea conditions by day. Prerequisites Start Keelboat Sailing Standard, Basic Cruising Standard, Basic Crew Standard or Equivalent Experience. Ashore Knowledge Section I: Terms and Definitions The candidate must be able to: 1. Identify and describe the following: Spinnaker Spinnaker Pole Sheet & Guy (Double) Bow Sprit Uphaul/Topping Lift Pole Jaws Downhaul/Foreguy Pole Tripline Tack Line/Bow Sprit Line Mast Car/Ring Tacker/Parrel Beads 2. Identify the following sail parts with a spinnaker: Head Luff Foot Leech Tack Clew Tapes Turtle/Bag Snuffer/Sock Flat Deck Furler 3. Describe the difference types of spinnakers: a) Symmetrical, b) Asymmetrical, c) DRS. Afloat Skills The successful candidate will be able to perform the skills using the equipment carried aboard the teaching vessel. Section II: Preliminaries The candidate must be able to: 1. While at dockside, rig the vessel as required for the spinnaker: a) Sheets around the vessel and attached to the spinnaker, b) Pole into function position, c) Spinnaker packed and prepared; Section III: Underway 2.
    [Show full text]
  • Rigging & Sail Handling
    Rigging & Sail Handling Wykeham Martin Furling Gear In continuous production for over 100 years, this traditional furling gear has been successfully fitted to thousands of boats worldwide. Cast in bronze from the original patterns, the parts are carefully machined, polished and assembled by English craftsmen to produce a beautiful and efficient furling system. Fitted with stainless steel thrust races to ensure free running and easy sail furling. An information leaflet is available on request. Service kits available. B Dimensions in mm's C Top Swivel Drum Size Approx. A B C D E Sail Area sq. ft sq. m A D 9443/GM/01/TS 9443/GM/01/DR 1 50 5 72 10 eye 85 62 9443/GM/2B/TS 9443/GM/2B/DR 2B 100 10 100 18 11 128 85 9443/GM/3B/TS 9443/GM/3B/DR 3B 200 20 110 20 12 135 95 9443/GM/4B/TS 9443/GM/4B/DR 4B 350 35 150 28 16 165 150 E Highfields Pattern Running Backstay Lever Lever Size No Wire Lever Length Base Size 3 3 2655/GM/01 1 6mm 10" 250mm 3 ⁄4" x 1 ⁄8" 95 x 35mm 3 2655/GM/02 2 8mm 16" 406mm 5" x 1 ⁄4" 125 x 46mm 1 3 5 2655/GM/03 3 10mm 23 ⁄2" 597mm 7 ⁄4" x 2 ⁄8" 196 x 67mm Sliding Gooseneck Halfband & Spike This all brass dinghy Available in gunmetal. fitting consists of a spike on a gooseneck with tangs and thumb screw for adjustment. Supplied with 12” (300mm) of brass 5 internal track, size ⁄8” Gunmetal Jaw width (16mm).
    [Show full text]
  • Part 5 – Masts and Rigging Making the Mast from Square Stock…
    Part 5 – Masts and rigging Making the mast from square stock… It is always best to use the same wood for your masts and spars as the rest of the project. A 3/8" x 3/8" square strip of cedar is being used. You could obviously replace this with a dowel of another wood already rounded off but the difference in wood texture and color would really stick out. Most of the mast, boom and gaff etc. will NOT be painted. Rounding off square stock is a good thing to learn if you have never done it before... ran a sanding stick across the flats I created. See below. Then drill the holes that will be needed for the sheaves which will be simulated on the mast later. There are three sets. It is easier to do this now while the strip is square or an octagon. See below. First, I used the template provided at the end of this chapter to line out the strip with a 7/10/7 ratio. Just transfer the tick marks for the two center lines every four of five inches down each side of the mast. Connect them by drawing 2 straight lines down the center of each side. This is what my mast looks like after I shaved off Using a 7/10/7 ratio will create a perfect octagon the corners. It’s ready for me to chock in my after the corners are shaved away. This is being hand drill and taper it. This will take a while to done to make it easier to turn this in a lathe or do and be sure you use a mask because it makes chocked in a hand drill.
    [Show full text]
  • Ship Modeling Simplified
    58 PART III Masting and Rigging "The rigging of a ship consists of a quantity of Ropes, or Cordage, of various dimensions, for the support of the Masts and Yards. Those which are fixed and stationary, such as Shrouds, Stays, and Back-stays, are termed Standing Rigging; but those which reeve through Blocks, or Sheave-Holes, are denominated Running Rigging; such as Haliards, Braces, Clew-lines, Buntlines, &c. &c. These are occasionally hauled upon, or let go, for the purpose of working the Ship." — The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor, 1819 the animal skin he hung to catch the GETTING STARTED wind was pushing him along. The physi- The quest for the perfect blend of masts cal principles behind the concept of and sails began the moment it dawned using wind and sail to produce motion on primitive mariners that they could are simple. But adapting those principles harness the wind and — sans sweat — has led to a chase that will give aspiring move their boats through the water. The model builders an infinite variety of styles evolution continues today, with sailors to pursue. using computer-designed sails and Animal skins eventually gave way to modern alloy spars to squeeze the most more pliable materials — papyrus, and from wind and craft. flax, then woven cloth. And as boats Cutting the waves on a downwind became bigger, so too did the sails — run, the first sailor likely had no idea why which sailors expanded by sewing strips 59 of cloth together. Canvas became the shipwrights developed standing rigging. cloth of choice.
    [Show full text]