BUILD THE Soleil The flagship of King Louis XIV Pack 12

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Assembly Guide Page Stage 128: The third lamp 279 Stage 129: The 281 Stage 130: The bowsprit 283 Stage 131: The foremast 285 Stage 132: The foremast 287 Stage 133: The mainmast 289 Stage 134: The mainmast 291 Stage 135: The mizzenmast 293 Stage 136: The mizzenmast 295 Stage 137: and flags 297 Stage 138: Sails and blocks 299 Stage 139: Sails and blocks 301 Stage 140: Sails and flags 303

Editorial and design by Continuo Creative, 39-41 North Road, London N7 9DP. Published in the UK by De Agostini UK Ltd, Battersea Studios 2, 82 Silverthorne Road, London SW8 3HE. Published in the USA by De Agostini Publishing USA, Inc.121 E. Calhoun Street, Woodstock, IL 60098. All rights reserved © 2016 Warning: Not suitable for children under the age of 14. This product is not a toy and is not designed or intended for use in play. Items may vary from those shown. Assembly Guide Stage 128 The third lamp A

4

1 2 5 6 3 A B

1 Lantern fret. 2 Lantern top. 3 Lantern base. 4 Lantern centre. 5 4mm. 6. Brown thread 0.8mm. 128A Remove the two parts, A and B, from the lantern fret. File away any rough edges.

B A C

128B Use the body of a marker pen to bend part A, creating a 128C Apply instant adhesive to the bottom edge of part A, and cylinder (inset). Apply some instant adhesive to the lantern top then fix the lantern centre onto it. and then fix part A onto it. E D

B

B

128E Apply glue to the bottom edge of the lantern centre and 128D Use a smaller cylindrical or conical object to shape part B then fix part B onto it. When dry, glue the lantern base onto the into a cone. end of part B. 279 F G

128F Follow Steps A-E to assemble the other lanterns from the 128G Retrieve 12 eyepins and the two launches. Make a small parts received in Stages 126 and 127. hole in the centre of each of the oarlocks and glue an eyepin into each hole.

H I

128H Cut the eyepins down so that they project only 2mm 128I Retrieve the boat support frame and glue both launches above the oarlocks. onto the chocks, as shown.

J K 128K This stage is now complete. Keep any materials you haven’t used, as they will be needed in future stages.

128J Glue the frame onto the main deck, with the boats facing forward, as shown.

280 Assembly Guide Stage 129 The bowsprit

IMPORTANT NOTICE 2-6-8-13 1

18-22

C 5-7-12 15-21 10-17 From this stage on, the numbers in the parts photos refer to those listed on the 1:1 scale diagrams supplied Bowsprit Plan. 1 Bowsprit. 2 Cleats. 5 Bowsprit top with Stages 129, 131, 133, 135 and 136. The diagrams will trestletrees. 6 Bowsprit top crosstrees. 7 Bowsprit also be referred to in the steps. top. 8 Bowsprit top ribs. 10 Lower mast. 12 Bowsprit trestletrees. 13 Bowsprit topmast crosstrees. 15 Bowsprit topgallant mast. 17 . 18 Battens. 21 Bowsprit topyard. 22 Battens. A C 4mm blocks.

129A Take the bowsprit (1) and cut it to match the length of the C one shown on the Bowsprit plan. 129C When you have tapered the end to the correct size, smooth the piece with fine-grain sandpaper.

B

D

129B The masts should be slightly tapered. To obtain this difference in diameter between the two ends, rotate one end of the mast under a sanding , as shown above, pressing down harder on the block as it gets closer to the end of the mast. Regularly check the piece against the plan to avoid overworking the wood. 129D Check that the length, angles and tapering of the bowsprit are all correct before proceeding. 281 E F 7 8

2

129F Remove the bowsprit top (7) from the fret received in this stage. Prepare the top ribs (8) from the strip received in this stage. Smooth the parts with sandpaper and then glue them together, as shown.

129E Prepare the six cleats (2) and then glue them into position on the bowsprit. Make sure to check against the plan H for correct size, shape and placement.

G

129H Retrieve all remaining gun port lids, eyepins and 3mm rings. Pass the rings into the loops of the eyepins. Make a small hole near the top of each of the lids, and pass an eyepin through 129G Here’s how the bowsprit and the top should look at the end of this stage. it, up to the loop, then trim off the end of the pin. Hold one of the lids above one of the gun ports, at an angle of around 45 degrees, as shown above. Glue the lid and pin in place, then repeat the process for the other lids and ports. I J 129J This stage is now complete. Keep any materials you haven’t used, as they will be needed in future stages.

129I Fit two gun port lids to the two ports at the .

282 Assembly Guide Stage 130 The bowsprit A 11 4-19-20 39 B 9 C D

14 33

16-44-79-110 5 38 130A Retrieve the fret supplied with Stage 129 and extract the 4 Slings. 9 Mast cap. 11 Sprit topmast. 14 Mast cap. two longer bars. Smooth them with sandpaper and paint the 16. 44. 79. 110. Top caps. 19 Parrel ropes. 20 Braces. edges with the same stain as used for previous wooden parts. B Lines. C. Blocks. D Double blocks. 33 Fore topmast. 38 Fore topgallant mast. 39 Stops. C 7 B 6

5 130C Retrieve the top (7) prepared in the previous stage. Place parts 5 and 6 onto the underside, as shown, and trim the ends to fit within the edge of the top. Correctly position the parts 130B Retrieve the 2 x 2mm brown wooden strip supplied with according to the plan, and then glue them together. Stage 129 to make the crosstrees (6). Cut it into three lengths, as shown by figure B on the plan. Glue the two trestletrees (5) over the three crosstrees (6), as shown above and as indicated on the plan. E

D 10

3 10

130E Use a file to adjust the top end of the lower mast so 130D Remove the knee (3) from the fret received with Stage that it will engage properly with the mast cap (9). Lower the 96. Smooth the edges and paint with wood stain, then glue larger (rear) hole of the top (7) onto the mast, so that the it and the lower mast (10) to the end of the bowsprit in the space for the top mast is in front of it (see step F), then glue position shown on the plan. the parts together.

283 F G

11 9

12

130G Remove the two remaining trestletrees (12) from the fret, and prepare in the same way as the others. 130F Prepare the topmast (11) as per the plan. Place the cap (9) onto the top of the lower mast (10) and then lower the topmast (11) down through the front holes of the cap and top. Glue the parts together. I

H 12 13 15

11

130H Aseemble the topmast trees (12 and 13) according to the plan (figure A).

J 130I Prepare the topgallant mast (15), and shape the end of the topmast to fit the cap (14). Lower the upper trees onto the topmast (11), then pass the topgallant mast into the forward 16 hole of the trees.

14 15

K 130K This stage is now complete. Keep any materials you haven’t used, as they will be needed in future stages.

130J Lower the cap (14) over the topgallant mast and onto the topmast. Glue these parts together and then glue the top cap (16) onto the end of the topgallant mast. When dry, paint the entire bowsprit with wood stain.

284 Assembly Guide Stage 131 The foremast A 45 51 24 46

23

31 23 28-30 26-27-29-34-35-40 131A Shape the foremast (23) according to the plan.

Foremast Plan. 23 Foremast. 24 Rubbing paunch and cheeks. 26 Bibs. 27 Foretop trestletrees. 28 Foretop crosstrees. 29 Foretop. 30 Foretop ribs. 31 Chock. C 34 Bibs. 35 Fore topmast trestletrees. 40 Fore topgallant trestletrees. 45 Fore yard. 46 Battens. 51 Fore topmast yard.

29 B 27

24 26 23 131C Remove the foretop (29), the trestletrees (27) and the bibs (26) from the fret received with this stage. Smooth the parts with sandpaper and paint the edges with wood stain.

131B Prepare the rubbing paunch and cheeks (24) so they E match those shown on the plan. Glue them to the foremast (23). The rubbing paunch should be positioned slightly higher. Sand the assembly and paint with clear varnish.

D 30

28

27

29 131E Recover one of the spools of 0.5mm brown thread. 131D Use figure A on the plan to assemble the foretop (29). Prepare the eight bindings (25). Glue the end of one of the Smooth the assembly with sandpaper and then paint with lengths to the mast, in the position shown on the plan, then clear varnish. wrap it around the mast five times, gluing the other end in place. Cut off the excess when dry, then fit the remaining seven bindings. 285 F G 26

131G Glue together the guns and carriages received in previous stages. Cut a 100mm length of 0.5mm brown thread for every cannon. Tie the middle of each length around the ends of the 131F Glue the two bibs (26) into place above the cheeks, then guns, as shown in the inset. glue the foretop onto the tops of them.

H I

131H Insert the muzzle of one of the cannons into a circular gun port, then create a small hole on each side of the gun 131I Repeat this process to fit the cannons to the quarter and carriage (arrowed). Glue an eyepin into each hole, and then poop decks. tie the ends of the thread to them. K 131K This stage is now complete. Keep any J materials you haven’t used, as they will be needed in future stages.

131J Now fit the forecastle deck cannons. Once the cannons are all in position, glue to the decks with instant adhesive. 286 Assembly Guide Stage 132 The foremast A 53-56-57 B 49-84 42

C

B 37

32 41 36

61-62-64-69-70-75 132A Prepare the natural thread for the lines (B) and the 32 Mast cap. 36 Fore topmast crosstrees. 37 Topmast blocks (C) from previous stages. Pass the thread around the cap. 41 Fore topgallant crosstrees. 42 Royal mast block, placed in the groove, as shown in the photo, then tie it cap. 53 and 57 . 56 Parrel rope. 61 and 69 off and secure it with a drop of glue. Bibs. 62 Main top trestletrees. 64 Maintop. 70 Main topmast trestletrees. 75 Main topgallant trestletrees. C

C B

C B 4 C C C D C

132B Twist the two ends of the thread together, depending on how long the straight length needs to be according to the plan. D The lanyards (4) should be prepared in the same way, but with 0.5mm brown thread. Prepare all the blocks for the bowsprit. 132C Fit all of the prepared single (C) and double (D) blocks to the bowsprit, as well as the lanyards. D E

132D Use a round file to smooth the hole for the bowsprit. Be careful not to overdo it: you only need to make sure the bowsprit can fit, so don’t widen the hole unless necessary. 132E Insert the bowsprit into the hole.

287 F G

A

132G Collect four barrels into two pairs, glue them together 132F The dotted red lines indicate the bowsprit gammoning. and then bind them with 0.15mm natural thread. Open holes in the grating below (arrowed, inset) to create space for these lines to pass through. Then fit an eyepin (A) into the end of the bowspirt and glue the bowsprit into place. I H

132H Glue one pair on the poop deck, and glue a third barrel next to them, as shown. 132I Arrange another group of three barrels (one pair and one single) on the forecastle deck. J K 132K This stage is now complete. Keep any materials you haven’t used, as they will be needed in future stages.

132J Use 0.15mm natural thread to create the gripes used to secure the boats to the frame. Tie one end to the eyepin (red dot, front left), then follow the arrows, passing the line through the other pins, then bringing it back to the first, and tying it off.

288 Assembly Guide Stage 133 The mainmast A 58 M 63-65

59

D C 68 40 35 34 73 133A Remove the bibs (34), fore topmast trestletrees (35) and Mainmast Plan. 58 Mainmast. 59 Rubbing paunch fore topgallant trestletrees (40) from the fret received with Stage and cheeks. 63 Main top crosstrees. 65 Main top ribs. 131. Smooth them with sandpaper and paint the edges with 68 Main topmast. 73 Main topgallant mast. M Brown wood stain. 0.80mm thread. C Blocks 4mm. D Double blocks C 4mm.

B 32 36 35 31

34

44 33

33 43 42

39 32 133C Shape the top of the foremast to fit into the mast cap 40 37 38 (32). Test-fit the foremast and topmast together, make any 133B Assemble the fore topmast (33), fore topgallant mast (38) adjustments necessary, and then glue them together. and fore royal mast (43) according to the plan. The chock (31) should go through the bottom of the topmast (inset). Test-fit the parts before gluing them. E D 37

33

38

133D Now test-fit the topmast (33) and topgallant mast (38) 133E Here is how the foremast should now look – assembled, together, and glue them together when satisfied with the fit. but still lacking blocks. 289 F G 17

21

18

133G Prepare the battens (18) and glue them to the spritsail 133F Trim and shape the spritsail yard (17) and the spritsail yard. Then repeat for the topyard and battens (22). topyard (21). They should be tapered at each end, as shown on the plan.

H I 21 D 20 C C 17 21

19

19

C 19 20 C

133H Fit the blocks and parts to the two yards, following the plan.

J 133I Hold the spritsail topyard (21) to the topmast, and secure 19 in place with the parrel rope (19).

K 133K This stage is now complete. Keep any materials you haven’t used, as they will be needed in future stages.

19

17

133J Repeat the process for the spritsail yard (17), securing it to the bowsprit with the parrel rope (19). 290 Assembly Guide Stage 134 The mainmast A 80 76 B

77 60-82-83 85-88-91 92-93

71 72 C 67 81-87 86

60 Bindings. 67 Mast cap. 71 Main topmast crosstrees. 72 Topmast cap. 76 Main topgallant 134A Recover the balcony columns (red arrows, Stage 112), the crosstrees. 77 Topgallant mast cap. 80 Main yard. 81 face/pillar decorations and supports (yellow arrows, Stages 113, and 87 Battens. 82 and 91 Parrel ropes. 83 Slings. 117 and 124), the column decorations (white arrows, Stages 85, 88 and 92 Footropes. 86 Main topmast yard. 93 114 and 115) and the port and starboard supports (blue arrows, Sling. C Blocks 4mm. B Lines. Stage 119). Prepare the parts and glue into place. C 134B Retrieve the B 134C Prepare the lanterns, and glue two stern statues a short length of from Stages 120 1.5mm brass wire and 121, and then into the hole at glue them to each the bottom of each side of the upper one (inset). Drill a balcony (arrowed). small 1.5mm hole in the poop rails and then glue two of the lanterns into them. Glue the third lantern into the hole in the lantern base on the transom.

D E 49 46 C

52 50 45 54 51 55

B 49 134D Shape the foremast yards (45, 51 and 54) and fit their battens (46, 52 and 55). Paint the assemblies with clear varnish. 134E Fit the blocks and rigging to the three yards. To make the stirrups (49), create a twisted length of brass wire with a loop at the end (inset). 291 F G A

C

G C F D A D 45

51 C 54 A 134F As you will notice on the plan and in the photo above, the parrel ropes are slightly different on each yard, with the fore 134G Fit all the blocks to the foremast, following the plan. yard being doubled with trucks and parrel beads fitted. Make sure you follow the plan to ensure that small changes like this are not overlooked. I

H 54

51

45

45

134I Fit the fore topyard (51) and fore topgallant yard (54) to their positions on the foremast. 134H To fit the fore yard, first check you have the correct placement, then wrap the parrel ropes (with trucks and beads) around the back of the mast and back around the yard. Tie off K and secure them with a drop of glue, cutting away the excess. 134K This stage is now complete. Keep any materials you haven’t used, as they will be J 134J Lower the needed in future stages. foremast into the hole in the forecastle. Adjust the size of the hole if necessary. Once the mast is in place, with the yards at the front, glue it into position.

292 Assembly Guide Stage 135 The mizzenmast A 111 120 99-101 58 68 73 78

B 80 94 86 97-98-100 105-106 95 112-116-121 89 Mizzenmast Plan. 94 Mizzenmast. 95, 116 and 121 Rubbing paunch and battens. 97 and 105 Bibs. 98 and 99 Mizzen trestletrees and crosstrees. 100 Mizzen top. 101 Mizzen top ribs. 106 Mizzen 135A Prepare the mainmast sections and yards (58, 68, 73, 78, topmast trestletrees. 111 Mizzen yard. 112 Battens. 80, 86 and 89). Fit the battens to the yards, and then paint all 120 Mizzen topyard. B Lines. the pieces with clear varnish.

C B 64 67 58 78 76 71 71

68

60 73 59 68

58 135C Complete the rest of the mast and glue together.

135B Fit the rubbing paunch and cheeks (59) and the bindings (60) to the mainmast. Then assemble the main top (64). Fit the E main topmast (68) and mast cap (67) into place. D 80 84 85

84

86

89

135D Fit the blocks, stirrups, rigging and parrel ropes to the 135E Here’s how the yards should appear when the various three yards. parts are fitted. 293 F 89 G

86 80

135F Attach the yards to the mast, the same way that you fitted the yards to the foremast, but make sure you follow the 135G Insert the bottom of the mast into the hole in the deck, mainmast plan. as shown. Adjust the size of the hole if necessary, and once the mast is in place, with the yards at the front, glue it into position. H I

135H Retrieve the headrails (Stages 124 and 125) and smooth them with sandpaper. Soak them in water for a few minutes, then take them out and wipe off the excess. Hold them in the position shown, bending them slightly to shape them. 135I Apply glue to the contact points, then clamp the headrails in position. Wait for everything to dry before continuing.

J K 135K This stage is now complete. Keep any materials you haven’t used, as they will be needed in future stages.

135J Recover eight headrail columns (Stages 119, 124, 125 and 126). Glue four columns onto each headrail (arrowed), then glue two of the decorations from Stages 106 and 107 to the forecastle (circled).

294 Assembly Guide Stage 136 The mizzenmast A 109 110

115 109 104 107 124

E G 95 108 103 M 94 96

Mizzenmast Plan. 103 Mast cap. 107 Mizzen topmast crosstrees. 108 Topmast cap. 109 Mizzen topgallant mast. 115 Crossjack yard. 124 Flagpole. E Blocks 136A Retrieve the materials needed to build the mizzenmast. 5mm. G Trucks. M Brown thread 0.8mm. Follow the plan to assemble the mast, as before.

B C 111 136C Remove the two 124 remaining pieces from the fret (Stage 96). Sand 124 115 them smooth, paint them black, and glue them into the positions shown in the main photo 120 (red arrows). When dry, lower the flagpole (124) through them and glue into place. Drill four holes in the poop deck and glue an eyepin into each (blue arrows). Drill eight holes in the rails (circled) and glue a into each of them. 136B Assemble the mizzen yard (111), crossjack yard (115), mizzen topyard (120) and the flagpole (124).

D 136E Look at E section A on 111 115 the rigging plan. To start the gammoning (125), glue one end of the thread to the holes in the beak, pass up through the grating, over the bowsprit, back down through the grating and then through the beak again. Repeat this 136D Drill six holes into the rails at the arrowed points five or six times. (inset), then glue a belaying pin into each of the holes. Place the mizzenmast into the hole in the quarterdeck, and attach 125 the mizzen yard, cross jack yard and mizzen topyard to it. Then glue the mast into position. 295 F G 136F After you have fitted both gammonings, 126 wrap a length of thread around each one (arrow) and secure it with glue.

I I 127

125

136G Tie six 5mm deadeyes (I) to the bowsprit top, passing the bindings through the holes at the sides. Tie a to each end of the shrouds (126), and pass them between the top and H topgallant masts, behind the yard. Pull the shrouds until they are equal lengths either side. Pass the lanyards (127) between the sets of deadeyes.

I

129

1 127

136H Create the foremast shrouds (129), passing them through the foretop and between the foremast and fore topmast. The deadeyes at the ends of the shrouds will be connected to the deadeyes on the chainwales. 136I Start rigging the lanyards between the sets of deadeyes.

J

K 136K This stage is now 136J This is complete. Keep any materials how the shrouds you haven’t used, as they will of the foremast be needed in future stages. 130 should now look. Glue the staves (130) to the shrouds at the points indicated. 130

296 Assembly Guide Stage 137 Sails and flags A 197 255-259

199

C

128-131 133-136 197 Spritsail. 199 Sprit . 255 and 259 Flags. 128, 131, 133 and 136 . C Blocks 4mm.

137A Create lengths of 1mm brass wire to fit along the centres of the headrails. Bend them to fit the curvature and then glue them into place. B C

137C Recover the headrail columns and decorations (Stages 124 and 125), as well as the figurehead (Stage 111). Paint the figurehead gold and then prepare the pieces as before. Glue them into position when dry. 137B Paint the headrail and lengths of wire with gold paint. E Don’t paint the columns.

D 131

C C

137E Start rigging the ratlines (131) across the shrouds, 137D Prepare the transom decorations (Stages 122 and 123) following figure A on the rigging plan. Complete the rest of the and glue them into place, as shown above. shrouds, ratlines and staves (128, 131, 132, 133, 134, 135 and 136). Tie the blocks (C) to the shrouds once they are complete.

297 F G 137 142

137 138

138 141 139 140 141 140

137

140 137F Create the futtock shrouds (137), topmast shrouds and ratlines (figure B). 137G This photo shows how the upper parts of the masts should look with shrouds in place. H I 155 153

150

154 153 156 152

155 155 151 157 137H Now rig the bobstays (151) and bowsprit (150), according to figure C on the rigging plan. Fit an eyepin to each of the anchor points (arrowed), then secure both sets of stays to the eyepins. 137I Now rig the stays (152, 153, 154, 156 and 157), lanyards (155) and blocks indicated in figure C. The mainmast stays (156 and 157) are connected to each other via a lanyard (155) and heart blocks (H), as detailed in the inset. The lanyard should pass between the two blocks a few times before being J secured with glue. The bowsprit stay (152) is connected to the 159 sling on the bowsprit in the same way.

158 K 161 137K This stage is now complete. Keep any materials you haven’t used, as they will be needed in future stages. 160

137J Continue rigging the stays (158, 159, 160 and 161) as indicated in figure C. 298 Assembly Guide Stage 138 Sails and blocks A

204 206 205

162

C 138A To create the bowsprit (162) as shown in figure D, tie the end of the line to the double block under the 204 . 205 Fore topsail. 206 Fore topgallant bowsprit, pass back through the double block in the middle of . C Blocks 4mm. the bowsprit yard, then back through the first block. Pass the line through the blocks until each hole has a line through it and B then pass back and tie off to the forward rail on the forecastle at the point indicated in figure Q, also shown in Step C. C

163 163

138B Repeat the process outlined in the previous step to rig the bowprit topyard (163), passing the ends of the lines back to the rail (figure Q). 138C This photo shows where the bowsprit halyards (162 and D 163) should be tied off. Some of the lines shown in figures P and Q will need to be tied to the pins (arrows), and the inset shows a clearer view of how this should be done, passing the line down 166 behind the pin, then back up, crossing over and around the top, then back down. 164 E

167

165

168

138D Now rig the backstays (164, 166 and 167). Add the blocks (C) and lanyards (165) where indicated in figure D of the rigging plan. The mizzen backstays (167) should be secured to the hull 138E All halyards are rigged the same way: they must always fall with an eyepin. Be aware that some of the lines will need to be behind the yards. Follow this rule, along with the instructions secured to each side of the ship. provided on the plan, and rig the remaining halyards (figure E).

299 F G 187 177 180-183

179-182 186

138F To rig the lifts (figure F), glue one end of the line to the 138G To rig the bowsprit braces (figure G, 186 and 187), first lift block on the mast. Then pass the other end through the tie one end of the line to the stay. Then pass it forward and upper block near the end of the yard, and back through the first through the relevant blocks, back to the stay and through the block and down through the lubber’s holes in the tops to the single blocks on the stay. Tie it off to the points indicated in deck. Tie each of the lifts to the points marked in figures P and figures P and Q. Q on the rigging plan.

H 138H To rig the I mizzen top braces (figure J, 225), first tie the lines to the end of the mizzen yard. Pass them forward to the blocks hanging from the end of the 224 mizzen topyard, 225 back to the blocks at the end of the mizzen yard, then down. Tie them to the points indicated in figure P. J

138I Some lines, such as the cross jack yard braces (224), will 193 need to be tied off to the pinrail and to an eyepin on the outside of the hull. Follow the instructions in figures G and J to rig the rest of the braces.

K 138K This stage is now complete. Keep any materials you haven’t used, as they will be needed in future stages. 194

138J To make the crowfoot deadeyes (193), retrieve some leftover 2 x 5mm wooden strip and glue two 25mm lengths together. Drill three holes through them, carve a groove around them, then pass a line around them and tie it to the stay (inset). Begin rigging the crowfoot (194) by passing the line up through the top, down to the furthest hole on the deadeye, then back up to the outer hole. Then do the same with the next holes in from the edge, and finally the innermost set of holes. 300 Assembly Guide Stage 139 Sails and blocks A

212 214 213

199 C

212 . 213 Main topsail. 214 Main . C Blocks 4mm. 139A Glue or sew a short length of thread into the corners of the sails to create loops, as shown in the inset. Take the sprit B topsail (199) and place the loops in the top corners over the ends of the sprit topmast yard.

139C Tie C the sheets (200) to the C loops in the clews. Tie the clewlines (201) to the blocks near 201 the middle 200 of the yard, then pass the 195 line down through the clew blocks, 200 back up through the 139B To make the robands (195), fit a needle to the line and yard blocks, then down. Tie all the sheets and clewlines off at pass it through the top of the sail, then over the yard, working the points indicated in figures P and Q. along the yard. Tie the ends in a knot once the sail is properly fixed. Fix a block (C) to the loops in the clews (bottom corners) of the sail. E D 202 206 202 C 210 205

209 202

204 195 198

139E Secure the foresail (204), fore topsail (205) and fore 197 topgallant sail (206) to the corresponding yards with the 196 robands (202), as shown in figure I. Attach blocks (C) to the clews. Tie the sheets (209 and 210) to the topgallant and 139D Repeat Steps A-C to fit the spritsail (197) and robands . Remove the loops from the bottom of the foresail and (195), sheets (196) and clewlines (198). replace them with blocks (C) (inset). 301 F G 205 204

209 208

204

139F Pass the sheets down through the holes in the yards below. Then pass them in towards the mast, through the blocks on the underside of the yard, then down, and tie them off to the points indicated in figures P and Q. 139G Tie one end of the foresail (208) to the points H 214 marked in figure P. Pass the line up and through the block and 216 then back down, and tie off in the same place. I

213 215

212

211

139H Follow the same process (Steps E-G) to fit the sails of the mainmast (212, 213 and 214) and their corresponding sheets (211, 215 and 216).

J Cathead 139I Retrieve the anchors and 1.5mm brown thread. Cut a from above 300mm length of thread and knot it to the anchor ring. Use a 1 3 short piece of natural thread to bind the end of the cable (the 2 4 brown thread), as shown. Repeat this for the other three anchors. K 139K This stage is now complete. Keep any materials you haven’t used, as they will be needed in future stages.

139J Two anchors fit on each side of the ship. Hook the flukes of the first behind the first lanyard of the fore , and those of the second behind the last lanyard. Lash the stems of the anchors to the bottom of the deadeyes with natural thread. Cut the two cables to match those shown. Glue the end of the first anchor into the inner hawse, and the second into the outer hawse. Tie a 200mm length of 0.15mm thread to the anchor ring, and pass the other end up through hole 1, down through hole 2, cross it under and up through hole 3, then down through hole 4, and tie it off to the ring. 302 Assembly Guide Stage 140

A Sails and flags C 220 218 257-261 217

C 217

219 C 245

217 Crossjack sail. 218 Mizzen topsail. 245 . 140A Follow the process shown in the previous stage to fit the 257 and 261 Flags. C Blocks 4mm. crossjack sail (217) and mizzen topsail (218), the blocks (C) and the sheets (219 and 220). Tie the sheets off to the points marked in figure P. B C

C

234

227 234 C

C 140B Fit blocks (C) in the clews of the foresail, mainsail and mizzen topsail. Rig the fore sail clew lines (227) by tying the line to the block on the yard, then passing it down through 140C To rig the buntlines (figure L): tie the line around the the clew block (C), back up through the first block, then down block on the top of the yard, then pass it down in front of the through the top. Tie it off to the point marked in figure P. sail (inset). Take the line back up behind the sail and pass it Repeat this to rig the rest of the clewlines. through the block, then up to the block under the top, then D down, and tie it off to the points marked in figures P and Q. E

240

253

240

252 244 140D Now rig the bowlines (figure M, 240, 241 and 242) by sewing one end of the line to the leech (side) of the sail, 140E Use the same method to rig the main and mizzen and passing it forward through the corresponding block bowlines (figure M, 243, 244 and figure N, 251, 252, 253 and as indicated on the plan. Tie it off to the points marked in 254) and the blocks (C). figures P and Q. Sew a shorter length to the sail below the first, and tie it to the line above (inset). 303 F G 246 245

250 248

C 249

247

C

140F To rig the bowsprit topmast (figure N, 250), 140G Follow figure N to attach the spanker (245) to the mizzen first pass a line through the block at the top of the spritsail yard with the robands (246). Sew a block (C) to the clew. Rig topmast (inset) and attach a block (C) to each end. Then tie the the sheets (247), the brails (248) and the vangs (249). backstay to the , and pass it through the blocks in the order shown. Tie it off to the point marked in figure P. I A 265 140I Bend the shank H of an eyepin (A) round to create a hook. Rig the tackle (265) – with C a block (C) at one end – to the mainmast fore stay. Tie a double 256 block (D) to the end of the halyard (266), 266 256 pass the halyard up D through the tackle 267 block, then tie it off to the point in figure A Q. Tie a lanyard (267) 140H Retrieve the flags provided with between the block (D) Stages 3, 137 and 140. Cut them from and the hook (A). their sheets, following the outline, then fold them in half. Prepare the flag halyards (figure O), then apply fabric glue to the insides of the flags and fold Congratulations! them over the midpoint of the halyard. Follow the plan to rig the halyards to You have now completed the blocks at the top of each mast and your model of the flagpole. Wrap the flag around something cylindrical to give it a more realistic feel. Soleil Royal!

J

140J To add a further look of realism to your model, you can add coiled lines to all of the belaying pins.

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