Chapter 16: Men's Hair Replacement

MILADY’S PROFESSIONAL BARBERING COURSE MANAGEMENT GUIDE LESSON PLAN 16.0

Chapter 16: Men’s Hair Replacement TOPICS

1. Introduction 2. Hair Replacement Systems A. Quality B. Bases and Construction C. Stock and Custom Systems D. Obtaining Replacement Systems E. Supplies 3. Measuring for Hair Replacement Systems A. Measuring and Pattern Forms B. Procedure for Making a Template C. Procedure for Making a Plaster Mold 4. Customizing a Stock (Pre-custom) System A. Supplies B. Procedure 5. Applying and Removing Hair Replacement Systems A. Non-lace Front System B. Lace Front System C. Full Head Bonding 6. Cutting, Tapering, and Blending Hair Replacement Systems A. Top B. Sides C. Back 7. Other Hair Replacement Systems A. Partials B. Facial Hair Replacements C. Full Wigs 8. Cleaning and Styling Hair Replacement Systems A. Durability B. Human Hair Systems C. Synthetic Systems D. Basic Care 9. Chemical Processes on Hair Replacement Systems A. Permanent Haircoloring B. Permanent Waving 10. General Recommendations and Reminders 11. Selling and Marketing Hair Replacement Systems A. Selling B. Marketing 12. Alternative Hair Replacement Techniques A. Drugs B. Surgical Hair Replacement

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997147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd7147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd 353353 55/31/10/31/10 111:06:261:06:26 AMAM NOTES TO THE INSTRUCTOR It is important for students to have some familiarity with hair replacement systems in order to know what to do if a client who wears one visits the clinic or barbershop for a haircut or maintenance. Due to the cost of replacement systems, many schools do not have samples available for students to gain fi rsthand knowledge of working with these types of hair goods; however, students can learn the basics of measuring and template-making while in the school environment. Refer to the list of supplies in the textbook or lesson plan, and procure those items that will facilitate the students’ opportunities to create hair replacement templates patterns.

STUDENT PREPARATION: Read Chapter 16: Men’s Hair Replacement STUDENT MATERIALS

• Milady’s Standard Professional Barbering textbook • Milady’s Professional Barbering Student Workbook • Milady’s Professional Barbering Student CD-ROM • Writing materials

LEARNING OBJECTIVES Upon completion of this lesson, students should be able to: 1. Discuss the reasons why men may purchase a hair replacement system. 2. Recognize supplies needed to service hair replacement systems. 3. Demonstrate how to measure a client for a hair replacement system. 4. Explain how to create a hair replacement template. 5. Explain how to apply and remove hair replacement systems. 6. Describe how to fi t and cut in a hair replacement system. 7. Describe how to clean and service a hair replacement system. 8. Discuss selling hair replacement methods. 9. Discuss alternative hair replacement methods.

ALLOTTED TIME: Two to four hours, depending on depth of study and range of activities. TEACHING AIDS

• Milady’s Standard Professional Barbering textbook • Milady’s Professional Barbering Instructor Slides • Whiteboard or chalkboard; dry-erase markers or chalk • CD/DVD player or overhead projector • Mannequin or head form • Hair replacement pattern-making supplies, including plastic wrap, marking pen, tape, measuring tape, and so forth. • Hair replacement supplies, including sample hairpiece, adhesive, solvent, double-sided tape, and so forth

EDUCATOR REFERENCES

• Milady’s Standard Professional Barbering textbook • Milady’s Professional Barbering Course Management Guide

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997147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd7147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd 354354 55/31/10/31/10 111:06:261:06:26 AMAM LESSON OUTLINE 1. Introduction A. Historical Perspective 1. Hairpieces, wigs, and false beards and mustaches have been worn throughout history. 2. Toupee: term originated from eighteenth-century defi nition of the foretop; current defi nition: small hairpiece or wig used to cover the top or crown of the head. 3. Later the term hairpiece was used; today, hair replacement system or hair solution. 4. Professionals who can design, fi t, and custom-cut hair replacement systems can increase clientele and fi nancial gain. B. Overview 1. Hair replacements are worn for a variety of personal reasons that originate from the desire to cover thinning or balding areas of the head. 2. Hair-replacement techniques include oral and topical drugs, hair replacement systems, surgical hair transplantation, and surgical scalp reduction.

2. Hair Replacement Systems

A. Quality: varies with kind of hair used and method of construction 1. Human hair: a desirable choice a. Advantages: natural look and texture, durability, and tolerance of chemical processes b. Disadvantages: reaction to climate change, fading, requires styling maintenance, can become damaged just as natural hair does c. Cleaned with special shampoos and conditioners. Note: Always follow manufacturer’s directions. d. New base designs are virtually undetectable. e. Most human hair is imported; preparation includes chemical cleaning (acid solution), sorting, and hackling. 2. Synthetic hair: used for full wigs and some hair replacements a. Diffi cult to match synthetic hair and human hair textures; affects blending of piece and client’s natural hair. b. Synthetic fi bers possess a high gloss and tend to mat or tangle more easily. c. Cleaned with cleaner solutions. 3. Mixed-hair products: blended human and animal hair; often used for theatrical and fashion wigs. a. Materials: horse and yak hair, angora, and sheep’s wool. b. Less costly than human hair; do not oxidize or lose the style. B. Bases and Construction 1. Machine-made, hand-made, or a combination of both methods 2. Bases: hard, soft, mesh or net, polyurethane, or combination 3. Materials: silk, nylon, or plastic mesh; lace; thin (onion) skin; combination 4. Knotting: refers to the way the hair is attached to the base; includes single knotting, v-looping, or single hair injection. 5. Root-turning: refers to sorting hair strands so the cuticle points toward the hair ends in the natural direction of growth. C. Stock and Custom Systems 1. Stock: also known as pre-custom systems; available in stock sizes and colors; allow for product inventory; may be used as samples or customized to fi t client. 2. Custom: tailored to the client’s head shape; requires a template (pattern) and color matching. D. Obtaining Replacement Systems 1. Requires study and understanding.

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997147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd7147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd 355355 55/31/10/31/10 111:06:261:06:26 AMAM 2. Questions for hair replacement system manufacturers a. What hair materials are used in the construction of the hair solution: human, synthetic, or mixed? b. What chemical treatments have been applied? c. If the hair is human hair, is it graded in terms of strength, elasticity, and porosity? d. Will the manufacturer stand behind their product? e. What is the life expectancy of the hair solution? f. Does the manufacturer have the ability to create custom colors? g. Is technical training offered about the products? E. Supplies 1. Products: adhesive remover, alcohol, spirit gum, double-sided adhesive tape, and wig cleaner or solvent 2. Tools and implements: blow-dryer, clippers, comb, razor, haircutting and thinning shears, scissors, T-pins, small brush, and styling block 3. Supplies: envelopes, grease pencil, hair net, manufacturer’s color ring, measuring tape, plastic wrap or cellophane, transparent tape, and client record cards

3. Measuring for Hair Replacement Systems A. Measuring and Pattern Forms 1. Preliminary haircut: trim lightly; trim front section; leave length at neckline and sides. 2. Gather longest cuttings; save in envelope for texture and color guide. 3. Sizes commonly measured in inches. 4. Larger number refers to length, unless otherwise indicated. 5. Tape measurements alone can be used for ordering stock systems. 6. Custom systems require a pattern in area of hair loss on the head. B. Procedure for Making a Template 1. Measurement (see textbook Procedure 16-1 or Supplement 16.1.) a. Place four fi ngers above the eyebrow, with the last fi nger resting on the bridge of the nose. Make a dot with a grease pencil on the forehead directly in line with the center of the nose; indicates where the hair replacement begins. b. Place the tape measure on the dot. Measure length to back where hair begins and mark the tape measure; measure to substantial growth; disregard sparse hair between the forehead and bald crown areas. c. Next measurement is across the top, directly over the sideburn where the front hairline of the hair replacement blends with client’s own hair at the sides of the head. Measure across the crown area if it is noticeably different from the front width. These measurements can be used to order a stock system. 2. Creating a template for a custom hair solution (see textbook Procedure 16-1 on page 492.) a. Assemble measuring tape, plastic wrap, 12 strips of ¾" transparent tape, grease pencil, and permanent marker. b. Trim excess hairs. c. Place approximately 2' of plastic wrap on top of the client’s head and twist the sides until they conform to the contour of the head. d. Place four fi ngers above the eyebrows and make a dot on the pattern to indicate the new hairline. Place additional dots as follows: 1. Two dots on each side where the front hairline is to meet the client’s own hairline. 2. Two dots at back of the head at each side of the balding spot. 3. One dot at the center back edge of the bald spot to determine the length of the area to be covered.

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997147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd7147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd 356356 55/31/10/31/10 111:06:261:06:26 AMAM e. Connect the dots with a pencil to outline the balding area. Ignore minor irregularities and sparse areas. f. While the client holds the plastic wrap, place each precut strip of tape across the bald area to stiffen the template so it holds its shape. g. Mark the front part of the pattern F and the back B; remove template and cut around edges with scissors. Replace pattern over balding area; check coverage; accuracy is very important. h. Attach hair samples to pattern or client card for color matching by the manufacturer. i. Record card (Supplement 16.0) can also serve as an information sheet when ordering stock and custom hairpieces. Activity 1: Supply students with pattern-making supplies and have them each create a hair replacement template on a short-haired or bald mannequin that has no further use. Encourage students to create bald sections of different sizes to practice their template-making skills. C. Procedure for Making a Plaster Mold: see textbook Procedure 16-2. 1. Assemble supplies: waterproof cape, towels, plastic bowl for mixing, plaster gauze strips, scissors, black and white eyeliner pencil, permanent marker, tape 2. Drape client. Cut six plaster gauze strips at 9" or 10" and eight strips at 4". 3. Stretch plastic wrap over client’s head, twist sides; have client hold ends so wrap conforms to head. 4. Mark the pattern and add details. 5. Apply towel around client’s neck. 6. Dip gauze strip into a water bath; gently squeeze excess water from strip from top to bottom. 7. Apply fi rst strip from front to back. 8. Smooth strip following contour of the head from front to temple areas. 9. Apply second strip from back to front, smooth strip to contour of head. 10. Apply shorter strips across top of head. 11. Repeat process to create second and third layers of gauze strips. 12. Blow-dry to set plaster until completely dry. 13. Gently remove mold by lifting it off the client’s head; water mist hair that sticks to plaster. 14. Trim excess plaster from mold. 15. Trace over outline on inside of mold with permanent marker; write client’s name and date on outside of plaster mold. 16. Twist small hair sample from client’s crown; cut with thinning shears; color used for front, top, and crown areas of hair replacement; wrap with tape to secure hairs; take separate samples from temple, side, and back areas. 17. Shampoo and condition client’s hair. 18. Important: Allow plaster mold to cure for 24 hours before shipping to manufacturer.

4. Customizing a Stock (Pre-custom) System: see textbook Procedure 16-3. A. Supplies: plastic and tape template, scissors, canvas block and stand, T-pins or tipped straight pins, shampoo and conditioner, towels, razor blade B. Procedure 1. Shampoo system and rinse thoroughly. 2. Condition system; rinse lightly, leaving small amount of conditioner in system. 3. Swish system through water; remove and comb gently. 4. Towel-blot system and invert it. 5. Drag system over back of canvas block; make sure all hair is behind front edge of hair replacement; invert template, place on system; use natural hairline; secure template to block with pins. 6. Use tip of razor blade to carefully cut base using the template as a guide; do not cut the hair.

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997147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd7147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd 357357 55/31/10/31/10 111:06:261:06:26 AMAM 7. After cutting base, remove pins and check for fi t. 8. Rinse excess conditioner from replacement system; lay to the side.

5. Applying and Removing Hair Replacement Systems: see textbook Figures 16-6 to 16-12. A. Non-lace Front System 1. Trim front hairline; clean bald area with alcohol or soap and water; dry thoroughly. 2. Apply two-sided tape in a V-shape on front reinforced area of the foundation; place additional tape on reinforced parts of the sides and back. 3. Place four fi ngers above eyebrow to locate hairline; position system using center of nose as a guide; once positioned, press down fi rmly on taped areas. 4. Removal: Reach under hair system in front section with fi ngertips; detach tape from scalp; make sure tape stays on foundation; reactivate with spirit gum. B. Lace Front System 1. Clean the bald area with rubbing alcohol or soap and water. 2. Remove hair on scalp where tape or lace will be attached. 3. Attach tape strips to reinforced parts of foundation; reinforced areas vary; never apply tape directly to lace. 4. Adjust hair solution to desired position using four-fi nger method. Press it down into place. 5. Removal: Dampen lace with acetone or solvent on cotton to loosen from the scalp; do not pull or stretch lace; use fi ngertips to remove tape from scalp; clean reinforced areas with small brush dipped in acetone or solvent. C. Full Head Bonding: see textbook Procedure 16-4. 1. Process of attaching a hair replacement system with an adhesive bonding agent; ask suppliers about copolymers for full head bonding; adhesive should be water-soluble. 2. Supplies: waterproof cape, towels, adhesive, MSDS, razor blades, canvas block, soft-bond adhesive, eyeliner pencil, make-up sponges, plastic wrap, transparent tape, marker or pen 3. Preparation: follow all the manufacturer’s directions for using the adhesive. a. Perform a patch test with any adhesive 24 hours before applying. b. Wash your hands. c. Drape the client; shampoo hair and scalp with pH-balanced shampoo. d. Towel dry; change drape to a haircutting cape. e. Make sure base of hair replacement is dry before applying. 4. Procedure: a. Trim client’s scalp with edgers; rinse excess hair from scalp; dry hair again after client’s scalp is rinsed. Do not touch the client’s scalp with your hands after this step. b. Select correct adhesive for the hair replacement system. c. Place hair system on client’s head; mark exactly where the system needs to be placed with eyebrow pencil; never bond on a client’s wrinkle or too far back on the scalp. d. Shake adhesive product well before applying. e. Apply a small amount of adhesive in a circular motion onto the client’s clean scalp. Use cosmetic sponge to distribute adhesive evenly over scalp; adhesive appears white until dried completely to clear state. f. When fi rst coat is dry, apply second coat and let dry; repeat steps for a total of four applications. g. When adhesive is completely dry, apply the hair solution. h. Apply one coat of adhesive to base of hair replacement system; do not apply adhesive to lace. i. Stand behind client; hold solution in both hands; place system at front hairline; start rolling system back, applying pressure without stretching; do not wrinkle base of solution.

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997147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd7147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd 358358 55/31/10/31/10 111:06:261:06:26 AMAM j. When system is on, use back of comb to check perimeter for wrinkles; smooth out inconsistencies. k. Place a towel over the system; stretch ends of towel; pull down tightly to ensure even fi t. Hair system is ready to be cut; tell client to allow 24 to 48 hours before shampooing.

6. Cutting, Tapering, and Blending Hair Replacement Systems: see textbook Figures 16-13a to 16-16b. A. Top 1. Remove excess length using clipper-over-comb or fi ngers-and-shear method at 90 degrees. 2. Work forward from front of crown to forehead. 3. Repeat using shears to blend top section. B. Sides 1. Comb side hair down; blend with natural hairline from temple to sideburn to ear. 2. Gradually taper and blend from the side hairline to the crest. C. Back 1. Cut excess hair length from the replacement. 2. Use thinning shears to blend the ends of replacement with client’s natural hair.

7. Other Hair Replacement Systems A. Partials 1. For a small degree of hair loss 2. Lace fi ll-in may be used 3. Measuring, application, and cutting techniques same as full hairpieces 4. Shave area to be covered for better adhesion. B. Facial Hair Replacements: mustaches, sideburns, and beards; attached with spirit gum. C. Full Wigs 1. Usually made of synthetic fi bers such as kanekalon. 2. Constructed on a stretch cap made of lightweight elastic. 3. Cleaned with manufacturer-recommended cleaning solutions; towel-dry, comb into style, and dry on head form.

8. Cleaning and Styling Hair Replacement Systems: see textbook Procedure 16-6. A. Durability: life of system depends on construction and treatment it receives; follow manufacturer’s instructions; clients should have at least two hair systems. B. Human Hair Systems 1. Remove old tape; clean reinforced areas with recommended solvent. 2. Immerse system inside up into cleaning solution; soak 3 to 5 minutes; swish until residue is removed; use fi ngers or small brush to tap adhesive loose from replacement; do not scrub. 3. Place system on towel inside up; gently press out cleaner with towel. 4. Hold system from front section and comb gently. 5. Fasten system to wig block with T-pins; style with blow-dryer or dry and reattach to client. C. Synthetic Systems 1. Cleaned with manufacturer’s recommended solvent. 2. Attach system to foam head mold; immerse in lukewarm water and solvent; swish and rinse. 3. Allow hair system to dry naturally or place under hood dryer. D. Basic Care 1. Use the manufacturer’s tape, antiseptic, cleaner, and softeners. 2. Place system on an appropriate block when it is not being worn. 3. Some hair solutions should be removed for showering and swimming.

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997147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd7147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd 359359 55/31/10/31/10 111:06:261:06:26 AMAM 4. Clean system after fi rst week of wear, then every three to four weeks or as needed. 5. Never fold the hair replacement system. 6. Always follow manufacturer’s recommendations for removing hair systems. 7. Apply light hairdressings and sprays sparingly and with even distribution. 8. Set hairpieces with plain water. 9. Recondition hair replacement systems as needed

9. Chemical Processes on Hair Replacement Systems A. Permanent Haircoloring 1. Can be used only on 100 percent human hair systems. 2. Follow manufacturer’s recommendations. 3. Perform strand test. 4. Apply with haircolor brush; do not saturate foundation; check color every 5 minutes; rinse, shampoo, and condition as directed. 5. Comb, set, and style. B. Permanent Waving: requires careful attention to detail; should blend with client’s natural hair. 1. Follow manufacturer’s recommendations. 2. Attach system to styling or wig block with T-pins; rod placement does not rest on base. 3. Hold wig block upside down over sink; apply mild permanent wave solution; return to stand; check curl development every minute; rinse 10 to15 minutes and blot. 4. Remove T-pins; hold block upside down; cover loosely with plastic cap; air neutralize for 24 hours; allow system to dry another day.

10. General Recommendations and Reminders: refer to Supplement 16.2. A. Comb hair replacement systems carefully to avoid matting, loss of hair, or damage. B. Use a wide-tooth comb to avoid weakening or damaging the foundation. C. Never rub or wring cleaning fl uids from the hair solution; let it dry naturally. D. Be careful not to cut too much hair when cutting, tapering, and blending a hair solution. E. Take accurate measurements to assure a comfortable and secure fi t. F. Recondition hair replacement systems as often as necessary to prevent dryness or dullness of the hair. G. Brush and comb hair replacement systems with a downward movement. H. To avoid damage to the foundation, never lighten or cold-wave a hair replacement system. I. If coloring is necessary, it must be done with care.

11. Selling and Marketing Hair Replacement Systems A. Selling 1. Need to know why men purchase hair solutions. 2. Avoid hard-sell approach. 3. If an interest is expressed, client is usually looking for guidance or purchasing information. 4. Barbers should be able to educate clients about options. 5. Be professionally ethical in recommendations and sales. B. Marketing: methods that can be used to stimulate interest in hairpieces. 1. Hair replacement display: clean and styled. 2. Referrals and word of mouth: a slower approach, but effective. 3. Window displays: provide walk-by or drive-by traffi c with a source for hairpieces. 4. Personal approach: tactful suggestion from the barber; wait for an appropriate opening.

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97147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd 360 8/3/10 12:48:10 PM 5. Print ads: includes all printed advertising from coupons to billboards; important to advertise because not all barbershops offer hair replacement services. 6. Personal experience: for barbers who wear a hair replacement; makes a strong impression on prospective hair replacement clients.

12. Alternative Hair Replacement Techniques A. Drugs 1. Minoxidil: a. 2 percent solution of minoxidil applied twice daily is moderately effective for about 50 percent of men using it. b. Available for men and women.; c. Two strengths: 2 percent, regular; 5 percent, extra-strength formula. 2. Finasteride: oral medication that is prescribed to men only to stimulate hair growth B. Surgical Hair Replacement 1. Transplants: medical procedure performed only by licensed medical professionals. a. Process: removal and transplantation of hair from normal areas to bald areas. b. Local anesthetic used. c. Small sections include the hair follicle, papilla, and hair bulb. d. Micrographs have replaced “plug” sections. e. Hair usually grows normally. 2. Scalp reduction: process in which bald area is removed and surrounding scalp areas with hair growth are pulled together to fi ll in the spot. 3. Flap surgery: bald scalp area is removed and fl ap of hair-bearing skin is attached to what was the bald area.

SUMMARY/REVIEW: What did we learn and do today?

1. Discussed the reasons why men may purchase a hair replacement system. 2. Discussed supplies needed to service systems. 3. Demonstrated how to measure a client for a hair replacement system. 4. Created a hair replacement template. 5. Discussed how to apply and remove hair replacement systems. 6. Described (or demonstrated) how to cut and fi t a hair replacement system. 7. Described (or demonstrated) how to clean and service a hair replacement system. 8. Discussed and reviewed marketing techniques used to increase hair system sales. 9. Discussed alternative hair-replacement methods.

THEORY REVIEW QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

1. Why might some men choose to wear a hair replacement system? Answer: For a variety of personal reasons that originate from the desire to cover thinning or balding areas of the head 2. List three types of hair that are used to make men’s hair replacement systems. Answer: Human hair, synthetic hair, and animal hair 3. List fi ve types of hair replacement system bases. Answer: Hard, soft, mesh or net, polyurethane, or combination 4. What are the steps to measuring for a hair replacement system? Answer: a. Place four fi ngers above the eyebrow, with the last fi nger resting on the bridge of the nose. Make a dot with a grease pencil on the forehead, directly in line with the center of the nose, to indicate where the hair replacement system is to begin. 361

997147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd7147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd 361361 55/31/10/31/10 111:06:261:06:26 AMAM b. Place the tape measure on the dot. Measure the length to where the back hair begins and mark the tape measure. c. Measure across the top, directly over the sideburn. Measure across the crown area if it is noticeably different from the front width. 5. What is another name for a hair replacement system pattern? Answer: A template 6. What is another name for a stock system? Answer: A pre-custom system or solution 7. What are the steps used to clean a human-hair hair replacement system? Answer: a. Remove old tape and clean area with recommended solvent. b. Put cleaner in a glass bowl so hair system can be submerged. Place material side up and soak for 3 to 5 minutes. Swish or dip system until all residue is removed from the hair and foundation. c. Use a small brush to tap the edge of the replacement system until adhesive has been removed. d. Replace the cleaning agent as necessary. e. Place hair replacement system on a towel with the material side facing up. f. Repeat the gum-removing procedure if necessary. g. Press out cleaner gently with the towel and allow to dry. h. Fasten dried replacement system to a wig block with T-pins and comb out gently. i. Style replacement system, cover with a hair net, and let it dry. 8. What are nine basic procedures associated with hair replacement system care? Answer: a. Use the manufacturer’s tape, antiseptic, cleaner, and softeners. b. When the hair replacement system is not being worn, it should be placed on an appropriate block. c. Some hair replacement systems should be removed for showering and swimming. d. Clean the replacement system after the fi rst week of wear, and then every three to four weeks or as needed. e. Never fold the hair replacement system. f. Always follow manufacturer’s recommendations for removing the hair replacement system. g. Apply light hair dressings and sprays sparingly and with even distribution. h. Set hair replacement systems with plain water. i. Recondition hairpieces as needed. 9. What two chemical processes may be performed on human hair systems? Answer: Haircoloring and permanent waving 10. What are three methods of surgical hair restoration? Answer: Hair transplantation, scalp reduction, and fl ap surgery

ASSIGNMENTS

1. Read Chapter 17: Women’s Haircutting and Styling. 2. Begin Workbook Chapter 17: Women’s Haircutting and Styling; due date: ______.

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997147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd7147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd 362362 55/31/10/31/10 111:06:261:06:26 AMAM Textbook Chapter Review Questions and Answers Chapter 16: Men’s Hair Replacement

1. Explain why some men might choose to wear a hair replacement system. For a variety of personal reasons that originate from the desire to cover thinning or balding areas of the head 2. What two types of hair are used to make men’s hair replacement systems? Human hair and synthetic hair 3. List the steps of measuring for a hair replacement system. 1. Place four fi ngers above the eyebrow, with the last fi nger resting on the bridge of the nose. Make a dot with a grease pencil on the forehead, directly in line with the center of the nose; indicates where the hair replacement begins. 2. Place the tape measure on the dot. Measure length to back where hair begins and mark the tape measure; measure to substantial growth; disregard sparse hair between the forehead and crown bald areas. 3. Next measurement is across the top, directly over the sideburn where the front hairline of the hair replacement blends with client’s own hair at the sides of the head. Measure across the crown area if it is noticeably different from the front width. 4. What important information should be labeled on a template? Marking the front part of the template with an F and the back part of the template with a B 5. List the steps for applying a hair replacement system with tape. 1. Trim front hairline; clean bald area with alcohol or soap and water; dry thoroughly. 2. Apply two-sided tape in a V-shape on front reinforced area of the foundation; place additional tape on reinforced parts of the sides and back. 3. Place four fi ngers above eyebrow to locate hairline; position system using center of nose as a guide; once positioned, press down fi rmly on taped areas. 6. What type of product is used in a full head bonding application? A water-soluble adhesive bonding agent 7. What type of product is used to clean hair replacement systems? Manufacturer’s recommended shampoos or solvents 8. Name two medications that may be prescribed to encourage hair growth. Minoxidil and fi nasteride 9. Name the oral medication that should not be prescribed for women. Finasteride 10. List three surgical methods of hair replacement. Hair transplantation, scalp reduction, and fl ap surgery

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997147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd7147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd 363363 55/31/10/31/10 111:06:261:06:26 AMAM Test—Chapter 16 MEN’S HAIR REPLACEMENT Read each statement carefully. Circle the letter that correctly completes each of the following statements. 1. Toupee is an outdated term that used to describe a small wig for men; another outdated term is a) wig c) hairpiece b) wiglet d) queue 2. Today, artifi cial hair that is used to cover hair loss is called a/an: a) toupee c) hair solution b) hair replacement system d) b or c 3. The primary purpose in wearing a hair replacement system is to: a) change hair color c) cover baldness b) maintain cleanliness d) look older 4. Hair replacement techniques include hair solutions and all of the following except: a) certain drugs c) surgical hair transplantation b) chemical processes d) scalp reduction 5. The quality of a hair replacement system varies with the kind of hair used in its manufacture and its: a) manner of construction c) fi t b) color d) shape 6. The most popular type of hair replacement system is made of: a) synthetic hair c) mixed-hair products b) animal hair d) human hair 7. Advantages of human hair replacement systems include all of the following except: a) more natural look and c) tolerance of chemical texture texture processes b) more rapid fading d) durability 8. Disadvantages associated with a human hair replacement system include all of the following except: a) it reacts to climate changes c) its natural look b) it requires styling d) it becomes damaged same as maintenance natural hair 9. A signifi cant amount of the human hair used in hair replacement systems is: a) cultured c) manufactured b) imported d) neither a, b, or c 10. Human hair replacement systems should be cleaned with: a) dry-cleaning solvent c) hot water b) special shampoos and d) acetone conditioners

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997147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd7147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd 364364 55/31/10/31/10 111:06:261:06:26 AMAM 11. Synthetic hair replacement systems are usually cleaned with: a) cleaner solutions c) shampoo b) water only d) brush only 12. A hair system that has the hair strands attached to the base with the cuticles pointing toward the hair ends is called a/an: a) hybrid system c) root-turned system b) tangled system d) generic system 13. Stock systems are also known as: a) pre-custom systems c) basic systems b) custom systems d) manufactured systems 14. A hair replacement system that is tailored to the client’s head shape and replacement needs is called a/an: a) stock system c) custom system b) basic system d) pre-custom system 15. Bases that are available for hair replacement systems include hard, soft, mesh, net, polyurethane, and: a) three-fold bases c) stacked bases b) combination bases d) wedged bases 16. The way the hair is attached to the base of the hair solution is called: a) sewing c) hackling b) shingling d) knotting 17. Custom hair replacement systems require all of the following except: a) color matching c) a stock size for each client b) measurements d) a pattern or template 18. A template analysis is also known as a: a) shape analysis c) contour analysis b) size analysis d) form analysis 19. Cuttings from the client’s natural hair are used as a: a) texture and color guide c) texture and size guide b) color and length guide d) color and thickness guide 20. Men’s hair replacement systems are commonly measured in: a) millimeters c) centimeters b) inches d) kilometers 21. When measuring for a replacement system or to create a template, the number of fi ngers to use as a guide from the eyebrows is: a) two c) four b) three d) neither a, b, or c

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997147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd7147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd 365365 55/31/10/31/10 111:06:261:06:26 AMAM 22. Hair replacement systems may be cut and blended with: a) clippers c) thinning shears b) shears d) a, b, and c 23. Two methods for attaching a hair replacement system are: a) weft glue and tape c) tape and glue b) double-sided tape and d) spirit gum and weft glue adhesive 24. When a hair replacement system is not being worn, it should be placed on a: a) plaster mold c) wig block b) hook d) fl at surface 25. Displays, referrals, print ads, and the personal approach are examples of: a) record keeping c) business management b) marketing techniques d) business savvy 26. Forms of surgical hair restoration include all of the following except: a) toupees c) hair transplantation b) scalp reduction d) fl ap surgery 27. A topical medication for hair loss manufactured under different brand names is: a) ether c) mineral oil b) minoxidil d) hair tonic 28. Some hair replacement manufacturers require a: a) paper template c) wax paper mold b) paper pattern d) plaster mold 29. Before removing a lace-front hair replacement system, dampen the lace with: a) water c) kerosene b) acetone or solvent d) alcohol 30. Permanent waving and haircoloring services may be performed on: a) human hair systems c) yak-hair systems b) synthetic systems d) horse-hair systems 31. Facial hair replacements are usually applied with: a) acetone c) tape b) spirit gum d) weft glue 32. Before applying a hair replacement system, clean the scalp with: a) acetone c) rubbing alcohol b) skin toner d) special cleaners 33. A hair replacement system should never be: a) combed c) cut b) folded d) styled

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997147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd7147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd 366366 55/31/10/31/10 111:06:261:06:26 AMAM 34. Reconditioning treatments for hair replacement systems: a) take the place of cleaning c) prevent dryness or brittleness of the hair b) should take place weekly d) are not required 35. The following characteristics relate to full head bonding adhesives except that they: a) should be water-soluble c) should be a copolymer b) should be water-resistant d) are applied with a cosmetic sponge

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997147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd7147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd 367367 55/31/10/31/10 111:06:271:06:27 AMAM Answer Key—Chapter 16 MEN’S HAIR REPLACEMENT

1. c 8. c 15. b 22. d 29. b 2. d 9. b 16. d 23. b 30. a 3. c 10. b 17. c 24. c 31. b 4. b 11. a 18. c 25. b 32. c 5. a 12. c 19. a 26. a 33. b 6. d 13. a 20. b 27. b 34. c 7. b 14. c 21. c 28. d 35. b

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997147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd7147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd 368368 55/31/10/31/10 111:06:271:06:27 AMAM Supplement 16.0 SAMPLE CLIENT RECORD CARD

1. Hairpiece without lace front

a) Without side part

b) With left side part

c) With right side part

2. Hairpiece with lace front

a) With side part

b) With left side part

c) With right side part

3. Hair color variations:

a) Front: Natural Percentage of gray

Streaked Front and top lighter

b) Temples: Natural Percentage of gray

c) Back: Natural Percentage of gray

4. Complexion:

a) Ruddy:

b) Dark:

c) Light:

5. Details:

a) Partials Patches Fill-ins

6. Photograph (may or may not be required by manufacturer).

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997147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd7147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd 369369 55/31/10/31/10 111:06:271:06:27 AMAM Supplement 16.1 PROCEDURE FOR MAKING A TEMPLATE

1. 2. 3.

4. 5. 6.

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997147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd7147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd 370370 55/31/10/31/10 111:06:271:06:27 AMAM Supplement 16.2 GENERAL RECOMMENDATIONS AND REMINDERS

1. Comb hair replacement systems carefully to avoid matting, loss of hair, or damage. 2. Use a wide-tooth comb to avoid weakening or damaging the foundation. 3. Never rub or wring cleaning fluids from the hair replacement system. Let it dry naturally. 4. Be careful not to cut too much hair when cutting, tapering, and blending a hair replacement system. 5. Take accurate measurements to assure a comfortable and secure fit. 6. Recondition hair replacement systems as often as necessary to prevent dryness,

brittleness, or dullness of the hair. 7. If required, dry clean hair replacement systems before styling. 8. Brush and comb hair replacement systems with a downward movement. 9. To avoid damage to the foundation, never lighten or cold-wave a hair solution. 10. If coloring is necessary, it must be done with care.

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997147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd7147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd 371371 55/31/10/31/10 111:06:311:06:31 AMAM