MILADY’S PROFESSIONAL BARBERING COURSE MANAGEMENT GUIDE LESSON PLAN 16.0 Chapter 16: Men’s Hair Replacement TOPICS 1. Introduction 2. Hair Replacement Systems A. Quality B. Bases and Construction C. Stock and Custom Systems D. Obtaining Replacement Systems E. Supplies 3. Measuring for Hair Replacement Systems A. Measuring and Pattern Forms B. Procedure for Making a Template C. Procedure for Making a Plaster Mold 4. Customizing a Stock (Pre-custom) System A. Supplies B. Procedure 5. Applying and Removing Hair Replacement Systems A. Non-lace Front System B. Lace Front System C. Full Head Bonding 6. Cutting, Tapering, and Blending Hair Replacement Systems A. Top B. Sides C. Back 7. Other Hair Replacement Systems A. Partials B. Facial Hair Replacements C. Full Wigs 8. Cleaning and Styling Hair Replacement Systems A. Durability B. Human Hair Systems C. Synthetic Systems D. Basic Care 9. Chemical Processes on Hair Replacement Systems A. Permanent Haircoloring B. Permanent Waving 10. General Recommendations and Reminders 11. Selling and Marketing Hair Replacement Systems A. Selling B. Marketing 12. Alternative Hair Replacement Techniques A. Drugs B. Surgical Hair Replacement 353 © 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. 997147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd7147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd 353353 55/31/10/31/10 111:06:261:06:26 AAMM NOTES TO THE INSTRUCTOR It is important for students to have some familiarity with hair replacement systems in order to know what to do if a client who wears one visits the clinic or barbershop for a haircut or maintenance. Due to the cost of replacement systems, many schools do not have samples available for students to gain fi rsthand knowledge of working with these types of hair goods; however, students can learn the basics of measuring and template-making while in the school environment. Refer to the list of supplies in the textbook or lesson plan, and procure those items that will facilitate the students’ opportunities to create hair replacement templates patterns. STUDENT PREPARATION: Read Chapter 16: Men’s Hair Replacement STUDENT MATERIALS • Milady’s Standard Professional Barbering textbook • Milady’s Professional Barbering Student Workbook • Milady’s Professional Barbering Student CD-ROM • Writing materials LEARNING OBJECTIVES Upon completion of this lesson, students should be able to: 1. Discuss the reasons why men may purchase a hair replacement system. 2. Recognize supplies needed to service hair replacement systems. 3. Demonstrate how to measure a client for a hair replacement system. 4. Explain how to create a hair replacement template. 5. Explain how to apply and remove hair replacement systems. 6. Describe how to fi t and cut in a hair replacement system. 7. Describe how to clean and service a hair replacement system. 8. Discuss selling hair replacement methods. 9. Discuss alternative hair replacement methods. ALLOTTED TIME: Two to four hours, depending on depth of study and range of activities. TEACHING AIDS • Milady’s Standard Professional Barbering textbook • Milady’s Professional Barbering Instructor Slides • Whiteboard or chalkboard; dry-erase markers or chalk • CD/DVD player or overhead projector • Mannequin or head form • Hair replacement pattern-making supplies, including plastic wrap, marking pen, tape, measuring tape, and so forth. • Hair replacement supplies, including sample hairpiece, adhesive, solvent, double-sided tape, and so forth EDUCATOR REFERENCES • Milady’s Standard Professional Barbering textbook • Milady’s Professional Barbering Course Management Guide 354 © 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. 997147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd7147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd 354354 55/31/10/31/10 111:06:261:06:26 AAMM LESSON OUTLINE 1. Introduction A. Historical Perspective 1. Hairpieces, wigs, and false beards and mustaches have been worn throughout history. 2. Toupee: term originated from eighteenth-century defi nition of the foretop; current defi nition: small hairpiece or wig used to cover the top or crown of the head. 3. Later the term hairpiece was used; today, hair replacement system or hair solution. 4. Professionals who can design, fi t, and custom-cut hair replacement systems can increase clientele and fi nancial gain. B. Overview 1. Hair replacements are worn for a variety of personal reasons that originate from the desire to cover thinning or balding areas of the head. 2. Hair-replacement techniques include oral and topical drugs, hair replacement systems, surgical hair transplantation, and surgical scalp reduction. 2. Hair Replacement Systems A. Quality: varies with kind of hair used and method of construction 1. Human hair: a desirable choice a. Advantages: natural look and texture, durability, and tolerance of chemical processes b. Disadvantages: reaction to climate change, fading, requires styling maintenance, can become damaged just as natural hair does c. Cleaned with special shampoos and conditioners. Note: Always follow manufacturer’s directions. d. New base designs are virtually undetectable. e. Most human hair is imported; preparation includes chemical cleaning (acid solution), sorting, and hackling. 2. Synthetic hair: used for full wigs and some hair replacements a. Diffi cult to match synthetic hair and human hair textures; affects blending of piece and client’s natural hair. b. Synthetic fi bers possess a high gloss and tend to mat or tangle more easily. c. Cleaned with cleaner solutions. 3. Mixed-hair products: blended human and animal hair; often used for theatrical and fashion wigs. a. Materials: horse and yak hair, angora, and sheep’s wool. b. Less costly than human hair; do not oxidize or lose the style. B. Bases and Construction 1. Machine-made, hand-made, or a combination of both methods 2. Bases: hard, soft, mesh or net, polyurethane, or combination 3. Materials: silk, nylon, or plastic mesh; lace; thin (onion) skin; combination 4. Knotting: refers to the way the hair is attached to the base; includes single knotting, v-looping, or single hair injection. 5. Root-turning: refers to sorting hair strands so the cuticle points toward the hair ends in the natural direction of growth. C. Stock and Custom Systems 1. Stock: also known as pre-custom systems; available in stock sizes and colors; allow for product inventory; may be used as samples or customized to fi t client. 2. Custom: tailored to the client’s head shape; requires a template (pattern) and color matching. D. Obtaining Replacement Systems 1. Requires study and understanding. 355 © 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. 997147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd7147_16_ch16_p353-372.indd 355355 55/31/10/31/10 111:06:261:06:26 AAMM 2. Questions for hair replacement system manufacturers a. What hair materials are used in the construction of the hair solution: human, synthetic, or mixed? b. What chemical treatments have been applied? c. If the hair is human hair, is it graded in terms of strength, elasticity, and porosity? d. Will the manufacturer stand behind their product? e. What is the life expectancy of the hair solution? f. Does the manufacturer have the ability to create custom colors? g. Is technical training offered about the products? E. Supplies 1. Products: adhesive remover, alcohol, spirit gum, double-sided adhesive tape, and wig cleaner or solvent 2. Tools and implements: blow-dryer, clippers, comb, razor, haircutting and thinning shears, scissors, T-pins, small brush, and styling block 3. Supplies: envelopes, grease pencil, hair net, manufacturer’s color ring, measuring tape, plastic wrap or cellophane, transparent tape, and client record cards 3. Measuring for Hair Replacement Systems A. Measuring and Pattern Forms 1. Preliminary haircut: trim lightly; trim front section; leave length at neckline and sides. 2. Gather longest cuttings; save in envelope for texture and color guide. 3. Sizes commonly measured in inches. 4. Larger number refers to length, unless otherwise indicated. 5. Tape measurements alone can be used for ordering stock systems. 6. Custom systems require a pattern in area of hair loss on the head. B. Procedure for Making a Template 1. Measurement (see textbook Procedure 16-1 or Supplement 16.1.) a. Place four fi ngers above the eyebrow, with the last fi nger resting on the bridge of the nose. Make a dot with a grease pencil on the forehead directly in line with the center of the nose; indicates where the hair replacement begins. b. Place the tape measure on the dot. Measure length to back where hair begins and mark the tape measure; measure to substantial growth; disregard sparse hair between the forehead and bald crown areas. c. Next measurement is across the top, directly over the sideburn where the front hairline of the hair replacement blends with client’s own hair at the sides of the head. Measure across the crown area if it is noticeably different from the front width. These measurements can be used to order a stock system. 2. Creating a template for a custom hair solution (see textbook Procedure 16-1 on page 492.) a. Assemble measuring tape, plastic wrap, 12 strips of ¾" transparent tape, grease pencil, and permanent marker. b. Trim excess hairs. c. Place approximately 2' of plastic wrap on top of the client’s head and twist the sides until they conform to the contour of the head.