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Home , Barber, Bouffant, French twist (hairstyle), Good hair, Razor, Wig

Chapter 9: Shaping, Styling and Maintaining and Hairpieces 2 CE Hours

By: JoAnn Stills Learning objectives ŠŠ Identify the appropriate instruments to use on human ŠŠ Describe the basic guidelines in selecting which styles are wigs and synthetic pieces. most appropriate and which will achieve the best results for that ŠŠ Apply the procedure of cutting the “basic layered cut” with shears particular client. or clippers. ŠŠ Explain the basic fundamental principles in cleaning and repairing a ŠŠ Explain the different effects achieved when using a on human wig or hairpiece. hair wigs and hair pieces. ŠŠ Define at least five (5) common types of hair pieces. ŠŠ Illustrate the appropriate method to put on a man’s toupee or hairpiece. Shaping and styling the wig Most wigs and hairpieces will have much more hair density, than an small partings from side to side, holding the hair up in a 90* angle, average head of hair. We may need to remove unnecessary bulk, along and cut as needed. with an excess of length. On human-hair wigs and hairpieces, we find 6. Go in systematically to remove bulk, with either the blenders or the razor to be the of choice because it tapers the hair to act more thinning shears. You want the hair to freely with enough like the hair of the head. Human-hair pieces can be cut either wet or texture. In a wefted wig or hairpiece, watch for the “” (the dry; but synthetic pieces should be only designed dry, incorporating the that is the backup strand after the strip is stitched). Note: point-cutting technique with the serrated shears, thinning shears and/or Be very careful not to snag the weft or the cap, as this will cause a blending shears. tear. Once the wig has been cut and checked, it is ready for styling. On synthetic pieces, the serrated shears and the “blenders” do a The procedure for the basic layered cut can be done with clippers, good job of shortening and bulk removal. Go back to your first set shears, or both. If both implements are used, make sure the client of measurements and block the piece for control and stability. Use as understands that each implement achieves a different effect. The many T-pins as necessary, to be able to keep the cap from lifting, during clippers will give a more blunt effect; whereas, the shears can leave the cutting process. In any situation, “hair shaping” or “haircutting” is more taper, especially if the hair is point-cut. Some feel that this appears irreversible. So proceed carefully! more natural. During the consultation, the stylist or wig specialist Follow the second set of measurements to determine outside guide should always explain to the client, the effects of the implements to lengths; any modifications can be done at the time of the final fitting. ensure client satisfaction. This is where only the professional stylist can give the necessary Cutting wigs and hairpieces with services, even if the client has purchased the piece from someone else. We like the effect of razor cutting on human-hair wigs and hairpieces There are several good cuts for wigs. The basic layered cut is the most because of the tapered effects. It is also easier, and time efficient to practiced, for the client who desires no specific design, because of its decrease bulk and remove length, at the same time. For best results versatility. If the wig is purchased with no definite pattern, the basic when cutting with a razor, make sure the wig hair is wet or damp. Like layered cut can give the client more styling choices. thinning, there is no particular procedure for cutting with a razor, but when unsure, follow the procedure for a basic layered cut (see preceding Cutting the basic layered cut section). With a razor, cut the hair closer to the ends than to the scalp. The procedure for a basic layered cut with shears or clippers is as A razor can give a lot of different effects to the wig, in different areas. follows: Therefore, it is imperative that the stylist consults with the client before 1. Section the hair into four or five sections. If the client wants a attempting to cut the wig with a razor. A few cuts and effects to achieve specific bang area, make that a section of its own. with the razor are: 2. In the nape area, find the guideline by taking smaller sections of ●● Long graduation cut. hair from the large sections. Use the to measure the hair, from ●● Short graduation cut. the band to the desired length (refer to your cutting measurements, ●● Layered cut. as the hair will be longer than the band itself). The guideline in the ●● Twist cut. nape area is the guideline around the perimeter of the head. ●● Wisping. 3. Cut around the perimeter of the head, using the guideline in the nape ●● Slithering. area. Now, you can either bring down each layer, or arc upward, ●● Tapering. across the back, to tailor the back. You can incorporate the use of the ●● Blending. thinning shears or blending shears to tailor the back to fit, smoothly. 4. Part the hair down the middle of the head and divide the hair into We have found that while using a razor on human-hair pieces will give a two large panels. Pin one whole side, so that it does not interfere soft, feathery effect, it can cause stretching on synthetic fibers and is not with cutting on the opposite side. Hold the hair straight up in a 90* suitable for designing on this type of hair. By all means, try and see the angle and start cutting in the front of the head, laying down hair effects, before going into the cut. that is cut, and picking up the uncut hair. Proceed to the back of There are many razors on the market. Therefore, stylists and wig the head. Repeat this step throughout the top of the head. When the specialists should make sure to be familiar with the hair type of wigs, to sides are reached, pull the sides straight out toward you and cut. be cut with razors. Some of the hair may be coarse; some may be fine. (There will be little hair to cut from the sides, because most was These factors impact which effects the razor gives the wig. It is also taken off during the perimeter cut.) important clients understand what razors can and cannot do to wigs. We 5. Once the unpinned side is cut, pin this side and repeat step 4 on the like our super-sharp and may replace these blades two or three other side. At the conclusion of this step, the whole wig should be times, during a cutting procedure. It is entirely up to you, and what you cut from front to back. To check for accuracy and even ends, make are accustomed to using.

Page 77 .EliteCME.com A cut is the foundation of a good , whether the hair are too drying. Use light, conditioning spray for control while setting. is cut with a razor, hair cutting shears, or clippers, or it is thinned with Reconditioning and adding moisture is imperative! The piece is not thinning shears, or blenders, or in any combination of these. A record getting any other form of conditioner without this step. We will discuss card should be kept on each client of the procedure performed on the this more under the cleaning and care section, later in this course. wig and the procedure results. The record card should also include But, for now, know that a light misting of will be enough to which implements were used on the wig or piece to achieve the results, maintain the style. A light spray gloss is also beneficial to the overall and any special procedures or precautions or client desires. The record appearance of the human-hair wig. card should be kept in an active because the client may call at Wig coloring any time inquiring about the hair-cutting or hairstyling procedures or Generally speaking, the color/colors of synthetic hair cannot be products. A client may come in with another wig and ask the stylist changed. Color stains and rinses have little or no effect on these fibers. or wig specialist for the cut completed on the previous wig. If this However, human-hair pieces can be successfully changed to suit the happens, the stylist or wig specialist can pull the client’s record card and client. Sometimes we will refresh the existing color of the wig or follow the notes of instruction. hairpiece, since cleaning and styling can cause the hair to fade in color. Styling the wig or hairpiece Animal filler hair will also respond to hair color and bleaching. Hair The principals of modern hairstyling are basic guides in selecting which color is categorized three ways: wig styles are most appropriate and which will achieve the best results. 1. Permanent. The wig style should emphasize the client’s best features and minimize 2. Semi-permanent. the client’s poor features. In modern hairstyling, the best results are 3. Temporary. achieved when facial and head shapes are analyzed. Each type of face Permanent color is an ammonia substance and is deposited in the cortex requires a distinctive hair design that is proportioned, balanced, and layer of the hair. designed to frame the face. Non-ammonia, “deep-color” can go as deep as permanent color, but The hairstylist or wig specialist must have basic knowledge of will not cause the lifting action of permanent color. It will also coat hairstyling, wig styling, and a sense of balance and harmony, to keep the hair, as does temporary color or rinses. As previously mentioned, up with the demands of and wig styles. The skilled and when hair is “hackled” or blended, it is done over very sharp pins. This successful stylist gives each style personal flair so that the style is process will somewhat destroy much of the cuticle layer in the hair. personal, attractive, and suits the client. For this reason, we have found greater success with the non-ammonia, The essentials of artistic and appropriate wig styling are: semi-permanent colors than with the permanent type. Rinses can also be ●● The shape of the head: Front view, side view (profile), back view, helpful to add a tone or diminish brassiness. and type of hair on the wig. While permanent color is generally mixed with a developer, we find that ●● Personal characteristics: Best features (emphasize and use as the using a developer makes little difference in the action of the color on foundation of styling), imperfect features (minimize), defects and wig hair. If we are using permanent color, we will mix it with very hot blemishes (conceal). water only. This will produce a stain on the piece. This is actually dried ●● Body structure and posture. into the hair. Bleaches (lighteners) will have their effect on the human- In the case of the hairpiece, wiglet, demi-wig, and toupee: visualize hair piece, but not on the cap. the additional hair as an addition to the bulk and length of the client’s Make sure that your wig block is covered well with plastic, and block own design, and ask yourself this important question: “How would I the wig according to your measurements. This assures that the cap design this additional hair, if the client grew this new amount of bulk will not be affected by the process. Sadly, you can knock-out your and length?” It may be necessary to fit and secure the piece into the customizing work without this step. client’s head and design the addition while the client is wearing it. Then, it can be removed to the wig block for completion of the cut and styling. Apply the color to dampened wig hair only, and just let it be. You can Many of our clients wore the piece for an increase of volume in the gently comb the product through, with a wide-toothed comb. The next crown area. It is simply a matter of visualizing what you would do with day, rinse the excess from the hair and cap well, condition the hair, and the additional hair, as if the client grew it. proceed with the styling. For the wet set on the human-hair piece, use your roller and pincurl The non-ammonia “deep color” is treated much the same way as techniques, just as with setting the client’s own hair with two permanent color. However, no water is used. These colors are great exceptions: for adding exciting tones to the hair, such as burgundy or vibrant red. 1. In the roller application, use the T-pins through the holes in the We can refresh the color and add luster to the hair with these products. rollers, to secure the rollers to the cap, and into the canvas block. Above all, remember to take test strands on the hair, to determine if the 2. Because wig hair is usually stronger than the client’s hair, use end treatment is going to be what you want. To remove excess, rinse only papers to produce the pincurls and secure with the T-pin. very well, condition, and proceed with styling. Both of these considerations will give the firm set that you will want for Rinses can be used to neutralize brassiness or to add a slight tone. the piece. Place the block in or on the dryer attachment and set the dryer Many times, a client that has the high-blonde lightener and toner on at medium heat (never hot). her natural hair will appreciate the same toner, in a rinse, used on the hairpiece. This assures a perfect match. Allow the piece to cool, undisturbed, before beginning the comb-out. Whatever your desires, please test, test, test! Here, it is important to recommend the careful use of products on the piece. Do not use heavy alcohol setting agents on the piece, as these Cleaning the wig Wig cleaning depends on the number of times the wig is worn and client in the care and cleaning of the synthetic piece. You will place about the wig’s hair type. For example, if a wig is worn daily, the client a tablespoon of soap in a basin filled with cool water. Take a soft brush should clean it every 2 weeks. Wigs can accumulate a build-up of to the inside of the cap around the hairline to remove any make-up or hairsprays, hair sheens, wig luster, and oils that are used to enhance the residual creams. Then submerge the piece in the soapy solution and allow wig’s appearance. Smoke and other fumes can cause a wig to have an to soak for 5 to 10 minutes. Squeeze out the soap and proceed to rinse unpleasant odor. Human-hair wigs are more absorbent of odors than very well. Usually, 3 fills, with cool water, will do the job. synthetic wigs. Proceed, with the conditioner advised by the manufacturer, or a light In the case of the synthetic wig or hairpiece, a very gentle or the conditioner of your choice. Rinse, if necessary, and roll the piece in manufacturer’s wig shampoo is recommended. We have, however used towels to absorb most of the moisture. Treat the piece gently as you Woolite clothing soap to cleanse the synthetic wigs and hairpieces. It will would with your best “undies.” (It is a good idea to carry the shampoo do a great job and leave the cap clean and smelling fresh. Educate your and conditioner in your retail section of the salon.) Shake the piece

Cosmetology.EliteCME.com Page 78 out and put wigs on the block with the client’s measurements marked. Dip the piece, in and out of the solution several times; making sure that Allow to dry naturally, with no heat applied. Never place a synthetic the hair does not tangle. When finished cleaning, squeeze the wig gently wig under a hot dryer! with towels to remove as much moisture as possible. Allow the wig to Human-hair wigs and pieces must be treated differently. Always follow dry naturally. Once it is dry, it is ready to be conditioned. the manufacturer’s directions for cleaning the wig. Don your stylist A “leave-in,” light conditioner is very good for this. The wig can also gloves for this procedure, and cover the block with plastic. be conditioned at the basin, if needed. Above all, avoid water as much You may begin by cleansing the hairline of the wig with the solution as possible. Water may shrink or stretch the cap; something that you do to remove make-up and residual creams. Block the wig accurately, not want. But, if the manufacturer’s directions allow, you may rinse the according to the client’s measurements on the correct size block. Use piece very well to remove all traces of the cleaner; which could cause gloves when cleaning this wig to protect the hands, because some irritation to the scalp. In any event, follow the recommendation for that wigs must be cleaned with special nonflammable cleaner, that is very piece. When rinsing the piece, make sure that the water is cool or tepid; drying to the skin. When the wig is secured, gently brush out any never hot. Blot and shake the piece until most of the moisture is gone. back-combing and loosen the soil and spray. Be very careful not to No matter which type of piece, do not brush or comb the piece when it tug at the cap, while doing this. A glass basin is also suggested for is wet. Educate your client to do the same. Allow the piece to fully dry, this wig cleaning. Remember, water is the enemy of this type of wig. naturally, before brushing or combing. Before immersing the piece in the solution, follow the manufacturer’s Now, you can dampen the hair and proceed with styling the piece. If it directions as to the amount of wig cleaner to place in the basin. Once is placed in a wig dryer, set the temperature to “medium.” Do not over- the wig is in the basin, make sure it becomes saturated with the solution. dry. Allow to cool before combing and finishing. Repairing the wig The client who brushes or excessively will likely have to are learning wig care. After the wig is repaired, if it will not be worn purchase another wig to recapture the original style. If the wave immediately, a wig case for storage is a wise investment. The wig case or curl pattern has been disturbed while the piece was wet, and the is designed to store the wig during travel and at home. A wig case client chooses not to purchase another wig, the wig may be repaired. provides the protection that a fine wig deserves. Just as with a fine fur Wig repair is not difficult, but the client should allow the stylist the coat, the human-hair wig or piece should never be stored in plastic. opportunity to repair the wig. Short-style wigs are known to sometimes give a sense of softness. These A wig that may seem damaged and distorted to the client may just wigs are a little less maintenance than other wigs, but they do require need a new cut or a new style. A wig can look new after simple deep more setting. The short-style wig can be wrapped to give more body. conditioning with the appropriate conditioner. The conditioning of wigs Short-style wigs can be shampooed, blow-dried, and thermal-curled. depends largely on the type of wig and the type of hair from which is Synthetic wigs usually hold their style a little longer than human-hair made. A client who does not know this may do more damage to the wig wigs. than good. When clients disturb the natural curl or wave patterns of their Weather changes affect human-hair wigs, which require more attention wigs, they can try to change the style of their by rolling and restyling the than synthetic-hair wigs. Most style wigs can be brushed gently and wigs. A stylist or wig specialist can offer restyling suggestions. sculpted into style. Short-style human-hair wigs can be set on small Wig repair can be as simple as cutting off the ends of the hair on the rollers, if longer lasting curls are desired. Rollers yield longer lasting wig because when a wig is worn regularly or for a long period, the ends curls than do curling irons. This is true with long human-hair wigs, may start to look shabby, or uneven. The repair of a synthetic wig may short human-hair wigs, and wigs with a high concentration of yak. include clipping off the singed ends of the wig instead of replacing Wig styles today are eclectic. Shopping for a wig is almost like the wig. The bands on the wig can be replaced or tightened to avoid shopping for clothes or shoes, there are so many choices. Wig styles replacing the wig. Combs, on pieces, can be glued or stitched back into range from curly, to wavy, to straight, to , to finger , to wet place. Any small tears can be stitched to keep it from going further. and wavy, to . In the wig arena, there is something for almost Hair, can even be replaced, where it is worn or missing. Using a very everybody. Once a client decides to wear a wig, styling it is as easy as small “hook-and-latch” hook, will duplicate the action of hand- tying styling natural hair. However, the client must become familiar enough hair back into the wig; or you can use small pieces of weft. with the wig to know what is right for the wig and what is wrong for the Clients must understand that when wigs are taken to salons and left for wig. With this information, styling is easy. If clients are ever in doubt cleaning, restyling or repair, the stylist or wig specialist will charge for about the styling of their wigs, though, they should always consult a the services. When clients choose to leave their wig for services, they professional. should be sure to ask all questions and get an estimate of the charges. As a special note; some clients prefer to wear a nylon or cotton cap When a wig is severely damaged, the stylist may have to spend a under the wig. Some cancer patients find that the band of the wig is lot of extra time on the repairs. Customizing, such as adding white irritating to the head. In this case, we provide them with this thin cap hair to the piece, also falls into this category. Repair costs depend on to protect the skin. Many times, the cap is used to hold the client’s own geographical area. Some clients visit cosmetology schools to get their hair up and to cover the pins to avoid snagging. And sometimes, the cap hair and wigs worked on by students. The students gain experience and will aid in air circulation to the scalp. Again, this is a choice that the clients cut costs. Before seeking wig repairs this way, however, clients client will make. should speak with a cosmetology instructor to find out if the students Hairpieces One benefit of hairpieces is that everyone can wear them. Clients with ●● Cascade: This hairpiece varies in length from 4 to 8 inches and has all shapes and sizes of head, and with any type of baldness, can wear an oval base. This hairpiece is worn in the upper and lower crown them. Some clients may be bald in the crown area only, while some may areas and is larger than a wiglet and smaller than a full fall. be bald in the front and crown areas. In both cases, a hairpiece can offer ●● Fall: This hairpiece usually has long pieces of hair and can vary a degree of assurance. When stylists or wig specialists consult with their in size. The base is usually secured in the crown area and may be clients, they should consider the client’s facial features, profile, and styled elegantly or casually. balding conditions. ●● Wiglet: This hairpiece can vary in size and length and has a flat or Identifying hairpiece types cone-shaped base. Some wiglets have waffle bases so that clients Several types of hairpieces are common, including: can pull their natural hair through the holes in the bases. The wiglet ●● Bandeau: This hairpiece is sewn into a headband, which is used to is used on special areas of the head to enhance or complement a cover the natural hairline. The headband comes in different colors hairstyle. It is used chiefly to blend with the client’s natural hair and and helps hide the hairline. The hairpiece can be worn over the usually comes curly on top, and full underneath. natural hair and is styled, casually.

Page 79 Cosmetology.EliteCME.com ●● Chignons and switches: These are long pieces of hair that are ●● The ”: This hairpiece allows the client to have a secured at one end. They may be worked into braids or woven smooth “up-do” style in a matter of minutes. through the hair systematically. They are used to give hair volume ●● The “”: This hairpiece has comb attachments and a wire and a degree of height. They are constructed with one to three base that give the client a degree of height and fullness. Curls are strands of hair. usually large to add volume to the style. ●● Postiche: These are small hairpieces that are usually made from ●● Integration hairpieces: These hairpieces enhance the client’s angora and yak hair. They usually have round bases. These natural hair. They add body, fullness, and highlights to the client’s hairpieces are used widely in hair shows and hair competitions. style. ●● Toupee: These hairpieces are used commonly among men to cover ●● The “dome”: This hairpiece is round and small. Its hair is curled an area of baldness or thinness. These pieces do not cover the entire smooth and round and loose. head, but they can cover most of it. Toupees come in short and ●● The “love ”: This hairpiece is styled and ready to be medium-length hair. attached to the head in the ponytail style. ●● The “add-on”: This small hairpiece has a net base that is ●● The “braided tail”: This hairpiece is french-braided and ready for approximately 6” x 5”, with four small combs to hold the hair placement. It can flow loosely or it can be pinned in a style. securely. The “Add-On” also comes with a small, thin band that ●● The “dread ”: this hairpiece is in the dreadlock style to give allows the client to add hair to different areas of the head. clients a “rasta” look. ●● The “headband fall”: This hairpiece is attached to a headband ●● The “zeebraid”:This hairpiece can be used to perform crochet to ensure security and stability. The hair that is attached to the braids on a client using a crochet needle. The braids hang headband can be straight as well as curly. The hair can also be individually. They are attached and secured with the crochet needle. braided. ●● Hard-base hairpieces: These hairpieces are made of different kinds ●● The “clip”: This hairpiece provides “instant” hair. The clip is used of plastic and resin. The hair is positioned before the plastic and to secure wigs, hairpieces or firmly. Natural hair can be resin harden. The hair is rooted in a specific direction. The styling pulled through the open weft of this piece. for this hairpiece is less flexible than that of other hairpieces. ●● The “”: This piece is usually placed at the top of the head or in ●● Partial hairpieces: These hairpieces are designed to cover balding the back of the head. The hair can be braided or smoothly wrapped front, top, or crown areas. These hairpieces are custom-made of the in a bun for a look of elegance. The bun can also come in a curly client. form for clients who like the curly look. ●● The “demi”: This half-cap wig blends with the client’s hair. ●● The “vent”: This hairpiece gives the client a look of fullness. It has The “Demi” adds fullness and style to thin hair. It is usually held built-in vents that will allow the client’s natural hair to be pulled securely with three lock combs. through and styled. Therefore, the client has a look of fullness over the entire head. Additional history Hairpieces and wigs date back many years. They can be seen in such quality hairpiece can last from 2 to 5 years. A client should keep two movies as “Grease,” which depicts the 1950s. The character known as hairpieces, in case of emergencies, and in the event one must be cleaned “Frenchie” was portrayed as a beauty school dropout, who changed her and styled. hairstyles with a colorful array of wigs. In the 1990s movie “Selena,” While synthetic pieces require little more than mild shampoo, human- actress Jennifer Lopez wore a hairpiece many ways. hair pieces must be given the same care that is applied to human-hair Hairpieces can be designed for all sizes and shapes of heads. They can wigs. Conditioning is imperative and sometimes restoring the matching be used for any degree or type of baldness, and their hair appears to color requires the professional’s work. Also, using a water-based grow naturally, from clients’ scalps. Hairpiece longevity is based solely hairspray will help to prevent build-up on the human-hair piece. on the client and the way in which the client cares for the hairpiece. A Hairpieces for men Custom-made hairpieces, known as toupees, are worn by men common among males and is responsible for the loss of also. everywhere, in every region and every ethnic group. were Many clients who suffer suffer associated pain and anxiety. known as the “wig-makers,” as far back as the 18th century. Toupees Because there is no known cure for alopecia, several clients choose to have been popular in the 21st century, as well. Today, barbers are wear hairpieces. considered to be in the middle of toupee manufacturers and clients, Rendering hairpiece services but barbers are not the only professionals serving toupee clients. Hairpiece clients, often and regularly, visit barbershops and beauty Cosmetologists and wig specialists, also serve these clients. salons to maintain their natural hair. Clients must keep their natural Understanding toupee clients hair blended to ensure that their hairpieces complement their hairstyles. Hair loss among men and women has an emotional impact. Women tend These clients must also return to barbershops and beauty salons for to change hairstyles for fashion reasons; men tend to wear hairpieces for regular cleaning services. As a result, the male hairpiece market can be emotional reasons. Few men wear hairpieces to change their hairstyles. lucrative for barbers and hairstylists. Men wear hairpieces for several other reasons. Many of those reasons Hairpiece tips are associated with youth. Young men may seem more attractive and In 1948, Joe Carlow owned a barbershop that specialized in men’s more successful in the corporate world. hairpieces. Carlow traveled extensively educating people on men’s As a person matures, the skin tends to change. Skin coloring changes. hairpieces, at times lecturing approximately 60,000 barbers. Carlow Clients should choose hairpieces in shades that complement their skin. wrote books on hairpieces, hairstyling, and blow-waving. They should avoid jet black and instead select shades in salt-and-pepper Following are men’s hairpiece tips that Carlow shared. or the dark brown range. The clients’ hair will look more natural and the The barber or hairstylist who renders male-hairpiece services, requires client will appear younger. the following and supplies: Baldness, whether congenital or acquired, partial or complete, can ●● Double-sided adhesive tape. inflict psychological pain on the sufferer. Alopecia, the technical term ●● Grease pencil. for baldness, affects the , causing complete or partial hair ●● Spirit gum. loss. There are many types of alopecia. is a condition ●● Envelope. that causes the client’s hair to fall out in small patches, leaving the ●● Wig cleaner. remainder of the hair unaffected. is a condition that ●● Transparent tape. affects most of the hair covering the head. This condition is more ●● Alcohol.

Cosmetology.EliteCME.com Page 80 ●● . 1. Use a grease pencil, tape strips, and plastic wrap to measure a ●● Measuring tape, plastic wrap, or cellophane. hairpiece. Pre-cut the tape strips. ●● Hair net. 2. Place 2 feet of plastic wrap over the client’s head and twist the sides ●● Razor or shaper. until the plastic wrap conforms to the client’s head. Ask the client to ●● Acetone or remover. hold the plastic wrap in place. ●● . 3. Place the tape strips across the bald area to hold the pattern. ●● Clippers. 4. Place three fingers above the client’s and make a dot where ●● Thinning shears. the new hairline will begin. ●● Small brush. 5. Place two dots where the front hairline will meet the client’s natural ●● Comb hairline. ●● T-pins. 6. Place two dots in the back of the head on each side of the edge of ●● Styling wig block (canvas or Styrofoam). the balding spot. The barber or hairstylist should consult with the client before applying 7. Place one dot at the center of the back edge of the bald spot to mark a hairpiece, have the client complete a record card, and understand the the hairpiece length. client’s request(s). (Before cutting, however, the barber or stylist should 8. To outline the balding area and ensure the shape of the foundation ask the clients to grow their hair, considerably. is easier to of the hairpiece, connect the dots. For a strong foundation, ignore blend with hairpieces and gives clients a more natural look.) minor irregularities and thinning areas. 9. Mark the front and back of the foundation, remove the pattern from Once the client and the barber or hairstylist reach an understanding, it the client’s head, and cut along the line. is time for the professional to give the client a preliminary haircut by 10. To ensure accuracy and ensure that the balding area is fully covered, doing the following. replace the pattern over the balding area. A foundation that is too 1. Trim the hair lightly, leaving the neckline low, and side hair close to large will not work well for the client. A foundation that is slightly the ears. too small, however can still be used for the client’s hairpiece. 2. After the haircut, gather all stray hair and place it in an envelope. 11. Place a hair sample over the pattern. Use the letter S to indicate hair This hair will be used for color swatches to ensure that the client’s attached from the side of the head; place this hair near the front of hairpiece is the proper color. the pattern. Use the letter B near the back of the pattern to indicate Measuring for the hairpiece hair taken from the back of the client’s head. The pattern is ready 1. Place three fingers above the client’s eyebrow, directly in line with for the manufacturer. the center of the nose. The hairline should not be too low. It should 12. Send the pattern to the manufacturer with special instructions as to be natural looking, unless the client has a scar or a mole or another the style of the hairpiece and any other information that is pertinent malformation that the client would like to camouflage. to the hairpiece and the client’s requests. 2. Make a dot with the grease pencil where the hairpiece will begin. Applying a front hairpiece 3. Place the measuring tape on the dot. Measure back to where the 1. Clean the entire bald area with a solvent like alcohol. hairline begins, and mark the tape measure. Be sure to measure back 2. Thoroughly dry and clean the foundation and scalp, then place tape to where the natural hair is full. Disregard thinning hair between the near the front hairline in a V-shape so that the hairpiece is held close forehead and the crown. to the scalp and appears to be part of the scalp. 4. Measure across the top of the head, over the . The front 3. Place additional tape at the rear of the foundation. hairline should blend with the client’s natural hair. 4. Place three fingers above the client’s eyebrow and position the 5. If there is a noticeable difference in the width measurement, hairpiece above the three fingers. Center the hairpiece over the nose. measure across the crown. Men’s hairpieces are usually ordered by When the hairpiece is in position, press it firmly and comb it into these measurements. The larger number usually indicates the length the desired style. The hairpiece is now ready for the final trimming, of the head from front to back, while the smaller number usually thinning, and styling. indicates the width of the head from sideburn to sideburn. (Always 5. Use a razor or a hair shaper to shape and blend the back and sides. consult with companies regarding their measuring systems.) Also use clippers, shears, thinning shears or blenders to make the 6. Send the measurements to the manufacturing company with the piece hair work better with the natural hair. hair in an envelope. Always indicate details about the client’s 6. Cut the top from front to back and check it from side to side. To complexion, the client’s preference for hair thickness, and any other avoid mistakes in cutting and blending, be sure to take only small pertinent details. amounts of hair off at a time. Obtaining a pattern or model for men’s hairpieces 7. Comb the front hair forward and trim it. This will ensure that if the Patterns or models are best when hairpieces are meant for unusual areas client’s hair falls forward, it will look natural. Also, when the hair is of the head. They are also good for the beginning barber or hairstylist combed back, it will lay smooth. who is first attempting men’s hairpieces, for ensuring client satisfaction, 8. If the hairpiece appears thick, use the thinning shears or blenders to and for building client confidence. remove excess bulk. The shorter the hair on a hairpiece, the more body the hairpiece will have and the more natural it will appear. Wearing hairpieces Many people today wear hairpieces as part of a fashion trend or for Wig manufacturers supply wigs, hairpieces, , mustaches, and versatility. Years ago, hairpieces were common among clients seeking . In most cases, there are special manufacturers to meet special help for baldness from hairpiece designers and barbers. The forerunners needs and special demands. Actors and actresses have special needs of today’s hairpieces, called “perukes,” “periwigs,” and “toupees,”were and demands that differ from those of the average customer. Actors and most common among men. Therefore, barbers were instrumental in the actresses may have hairpieces crafted for movie screens and for special emergence of the hairpiece. Early barbers served males only, therefore social appearances, such as award shows and movie premiers. they were the wig-makers of the early years. Today, more hair stylists In referring to all of this information, always follow the manufacturers’ are involved with hairpieces and wigs, and most salons are unisex. Most directions for cleaning and servicing. The same holds true for stylists are compelled to cut men’s hair. Hairpiece wearers do not fall application and removal of the different types of bases. into any specific category; they can be housewives, actors, actresses, comedians, athletes, students, teachers - anyone. Above all, keep your confidence in your work and your desire to satisfy the clients’ needs. References ŠŠ Ruskai, M., Lowery, A. (2010). Wig making and styling: A complete guide for theater and film. ŠŠ Love, T. (2002). Wigs, weaves, and extensions. Milady Publications; Delmar, a division of Thompson Elsevueer, Inc. Learning. ŠŠ Pivot Point International, Inc. (2010). Salon Fundamentals, A resource for your cosmetology career. Author.

Page 81 Cosmetology.EliteCME.com SHAPING, STYLING AND MAINTAINING WIGS AND HAIRPIECES Final Examination Questions Select the best answer for each questions and mark your answers online at Cosmetology.EliteCME.com 1. Most wigs and hairpieces will have much more ______than an 4. When measuring for the hairpiece, the front hairline should average head of hair. ______with the client’s natural hair. a. Versatility. a. Contrast. b. Beauty. b. Stick to. c. Hair density. c. Begin. d. Unnecessary bulk. d. Blend. 2. Because adding moisture is imperative, which type of spray should 5. In referring to all of this information ______follow the be used for control while setting? manufactures’ direction for cleaning and servicing. a. An alcohol-based setting agent. a. Sometimes. b. No spray should be used on the wig at all. b. Never. c. An effective spray. c. Always. d. A light, conditioning spray. d. Occasionally. 3. A wig can look new after a simple ______. a. Hair wash and dry. b. New hair style. c. Deep conditioning with the appropriate conditioner. d. Trim.

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