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Chapter 9: Shaping, Styling and Maintaining Wigs and Hairpieces 2 CE Hours

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Chapter 9: Shaping, Styling and Maintaining Wigs and Hairpieces 2 CE Hours Chapter 9: Shaping, Styling and Maintaining Wigs and Hairpieces 2 CE Hours By: JoAnn Stills Learning objectives Identify the appropriate cutting instruments to use on human hair Describe the basic guidelines in selecting which wig styles are wigs and synthetic pieces. most appropriate and which will achieve the best results for that Apply the procedure of cutting the “basic layered cut” with shears particular client. or clippers. Explain the basic fundamental principles in cleaning and repairing a Explain the different effects achieved when using a razor on human wig or hairpiece. hair wigs and hair pieces. Define at least five (5) common types of hair pieces. Illustrate the appropriate method to put on a man’s toupee or hairpiece. Shaping and styling the wig Most wigs and hairpieces will have much more hair density, than an small partings from side to side, holding the hair up in a 90* angle, average head of hair. We may need to remove unnecessary bulk, along and cut as needed. with an excess of length. On human-hair wigs and hairpieces, we find 6. Go in systematically to remove bulk, with either the blenders or the razor to be the tool of choice because it tapers the hair to act more thinning shears. You want the hair to move freely with enough like the hair of the head. Human-hair pieces can be cut either wet or texture. In a wefted wig or hairpiece, watch for the “beard” (the dry; but synthetic pieces should be only designed dry, incorporating the short hair that is the backup strand after the strip is stitched). Note: point-cutting technique with the serrated shears, thinning shears and/or Be very careful not to snag the weft or the cap, as this will cause a blending shears. tear. Once the wig has been cut and checked, it is ready for styling. On synthetic pieces, the serrated shears and the “blenders” do a The procedure for the basic layered cut can be done with clippers, good job of shortening and bulk removal. Go back to your first set shears, or both. If both implements are used, make sure the client of measurements and block the piece for control and stability. Use as understands that each implement achieves a different effect. The many T-pins as necessary, to be able to keep the cap from lifting, during clippers will give a more blunt effect; whereas, the shears can leave the cutting process. In any situation, “hair shaping” or “haircutting” is more taper, especially if the hair is point-cut. Some feel that this appears irreversible. So proceed carefully! more natural. During the consultation, the stylist or wig specialist Follow the second set of measurements to determine outside guide should always explain to the client, the effects of the implements to lengths; any modifications can be done at the time of the final fitting. ensure client satisfaction. This is where only the professional stylist can give the necessary Cutting wigs and hairpieces with razors services, even if the client has purchased the piece from someone else. We like the effect of razor cutting on human-hair wigs and hairpieces There are several good cuts for wigs. The basic layered cut is the most because of the tapered effects. It is also easier, and time efficient to practiced, for the client who desires no specific design, because of its decrease bulk and remove length, at the same time. For best results versatility. If the wig is purchased with no definite pattern, the basic when cutting with a razor, make sure the wig hair is wet or damp. Like layered cut can give the client more styling choices. thinning, there is no particular procedure for cutting with a razor, but when unsure, follow the procedure for a basic layered cut (see preceding Cutting the basic layered cut section). With a razor, cut the hair closer to the ends than to the scalp. The procedure for a basic layered cut with shears or clippers is as A razor can give a lot of different effects to the wig, in different areas. follows: Therefore, it is imperative that the stylist consults with the client before 1. Section the hair into four or five sections. If the client wants a attempting to cut the wig with a razor. A few cuts and effects to achieve specific bang area, make that a section of its own. with the razor are: 2. In the nape area, find the guideline by taking smaller sections of ● Long graduation cut. hair from the large sections. Use the comb to measure the hair, from ● Short graduation cut. the band to the desired length (refer to your cutting measurements, ● Layered cut. as the hair will be longer than the band itself). The guideline in the ● Twist cut. nape area is the guideline around the perimeter of the head. ● Wisping. 3. Cut around the perimeter of the head, using the guideline in the nape ● Slithering. area. Now, you can either bring down each layer, or arc upward, ● Tapering. across the back, to tailor the back. You can incorporate the use of the ● Blending. thinning shears or blending shears to tailor the back to fit, smoothly. 4. Part the hair down the middle of the head and divide the hair into We have found that while using a razor on human-hair pieces will give a two large panels. Pin one whole side, so that it does not interfere soft, feathery effect, it can cause stretching on synthetic fibers and is not with cutting on the opposite side. Hold the hair straight up in a 90* suitable for designing on this type of hair. By all means, try and see the angle and start cutting in the front of the head, laying down hair effects, before going into the cut. that is cut, and picking up the uncut hair. Proceed to the back of There are many razors on the market. Therefore, stylists and wig the head. Repeat this step throughout the top of the head. When the specialists should make sure to be familiar with the hair type of wigs, to sides are reached, pull the sides straight out toward you and cut. be cut with razors. Some of the hair may be coarse; some may be fine. (There will be little hair to cut from the sides, because most was These factors impact which effects the razor gives the wig. It is also taken off during the perimeter cut.) important clients understand what razors can and cannot do to wigs. We 5. Once the unpinned side is cut, pin this side and repeat step 4 on the like our blades super-sharp and may replace these blades two or three other side. At the conclusion of this step, the whole wig should be times, during a cutting procedure. It is entirely up to you, and what you cut from front to back. To check for accuracy and even ends, make are accustomed to using. Page 77 Cosmetology.EliteCME.com A good hair cut is the foundation of a good hairstyle, whether the hair are too drying. Use light, conditioning spray for control while setting. is cut with a razor, hair cutting shears, or clippers, or it is thinned with Reconditioning and adding moisture is imperative! The piece is not thinning shears, or blenders, or in any combination of these. A record getting any other form of conditioner without this step. We will discuss card should be kept on each client of the procedure performed on the this more under the cleaning and care section, later in this course. wig and the procedure results. The record card should also include But, for now, know that a light misting of hair spray will be enough to which implements were used on the wig or piece to achieve the results, maintain the style. A light spray gloss is also beneficial to the overall and any special procedures or precautions or client desires. The record appearance of the human-hair wig. card should be kept in an active file because the client may call at Wig coloring any time inquiring about the hair-cutting or hairstyling procedures or Generally speaking, the color/colors of synthetic hair cannot be products. A client may come in with another wig and ask the stylist changed. Color stains and rinses have little or no effect on these fibers. or wig specialist for the cut completed on the previous wig. If this However, human-hair pieces can be successfully changed to suit the happens, the stylist or wig specialist can pull the client’s record card and client. Sometimes we will refresh the existing color of the wig or follow the notes of instruction. hairpiece, since cleaning and styling can cause the hair to fade in color. Styling the wig or hairpiece Animal filler hair will also respond to hair color and bleaching. Hair The principals of modern hairstyling are basic guides in selecting which color is categorized three ways: wig styles are most appropriate and which will achieve the best results. 1. Permanent. The wig style should emphasize the client’s best features and minimize 2. Semi-permanent. the client’s poor features. In modern hairstyling, the best results are 3. Temporary. achieved when facial and head shapes are analyzed. Each type of face Permanent color is an ammonia substance and is deposited in the cortex requires a distinctive hair design that is proportioned, balanced, and layer of the hair. designed to frame the face. Non-ammonia, “deep-color” can go as deep as permanent color, but The hairstylist or wig specialist must have basic knowledge of will not cause the lifting action of permanent color.
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