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Twin Needle Reference Chart Twin Needle Reference Chart © 2003 The Taunton Press www.threadsmagazine.com Technique Fabric Stitch Upper Tension Foot Needle Thread Tips Twin needle topstitching Flat topstitching: parallel Lightweight rows of topstitching Loosen; always test 1.6 to 2mm Fine wovens or knits Medium-weight Straight Flat-bottom zigzag foot 2.5 to 3mm Test-stitch a sample wovens or knits Appropriate for fabric Normal and look desired; Medium- to polyester for knits heavyweight 4mm or more wovens or knits Cover stitch: hemming stitch that mimics commercial cover Polyester, cotton- stitch; results in parallel rows Choose a needle wide covered polyester, or of topstitching on the right side, enough for the look you Any knits, some other appropriate with raw edge of hem covered Straight Normal Flat-bottom zigzag foot want and the Test-stitch a sample wovens thread with strength by zigzag bobbin thread on appropriate size and and stretch to hem wrong side type for your fabric knits Embossed effect: topstitching Lightweight with contrasting thread colors; Decorative or straight Loosen 1.6 to 2mm darker color creates "shadow" wovens or knits Machine-embroidery of lighter tone Flat-bottom zigzag foot cotton, rayon, or Test-stitch a sample decorative threads Medium-weight Decorative or straight Normal 2.5 to 3mm wovens or knits Hemstitching Hemstitch: double wing needle creates openings in Spray-starch fabric and press several fabric that resemble hand- times until it is stiff. A lightweight tear- hemstitching or entredeux Very fine machine- away stabilizer can be used under the Woven linen or Usually normal, but embroidery cotton, fabric. Hold fabric taut while stitching cotton with little on heavier fabrics, rayon, silk, and other first row, with needles and presser or no polyester, increase tension to decorative threads. foot up, turn fabric 180 degrees, lower Open-toe satin-stitch fabrics with Straight, set 2 to create enough pull Madeira 80/2, YLI needles into fabric so wing needle foot or transparent Double wing body like 2.5mm long to open the holes; Heirloom 100/2 or returns exactly to the last hole it plastic foot organdy, and on very lightweight 70/2, Mettler 60/2, made, lower the presser foot, and loosely woven fabrics loosen to and DMC 50/2; color begin to sew. Sew slowly making sure fabrics prevent puckering usually matches the wing needle always returns to the fabric right hole. Pull the fabric to the front or back to make adjustments as you sew. Twin Needle Reference Chart (continued) © 2003 The Taunton Press www.threadsmagazine.com Technique Fabric Stitch Upper Tension Foot Needle Thread Tips Twin needle embellishment Topstitched ribbon: appliqué fine ribbon to the right side of Slightly narrower than Appropriate for fabric the fabric; double needle Most wovens ribbon width; fine Straight Loosen Flat-bottom zigzag foot and ribbon and look Test-stitch a sample attaches ribbon on both edges and knits needle to avoid desired in one pass damaging ribbon Textured topstitching: allover Medium-weight topstitching adds subtly 2.5 to 3mm puckered texture to fabric wovens or knits Machine-embroidery Pintuck foot or satin- Stitch the texture into fabric before Decorative or straight Normal cotton, rayon, or stitch foot cutting pattern piece Medium- to decorative threads heavyweight 4mm needles or more wovens or knits Shadow work: topstitching on Straight, tracery sheer fabric, with darker Sheer wovens scallop, arch, or 2.5mm has enough bobbin thread that shows with body, such Machine-embroidery serpentine stitch; space for shadow and through as a shadow as Swiss Flat-bottom zigzag foot cotton, size Use spray starch to stabilize (several stitch length varies Loosen is narrow enough to be organdy, or satin-stitch foot appropriate for fabric-- applications if needed) but set the stitch used with a decorative organza, or 50/2 or 60/2 width as wide as the stitch batiste machine permits Corded shadow work: contrast-color cording added to Sheer wovens 2.5mm has enough Thread: see above; wrong side of fabric is held in with body, such Same as above, but space for shadow and cord: pearl cotton, place by bobbin thread and as Swiss Flat-bottom zigzag foot Use spray starch to stabilize (several stitch can be Loosen is narrow enough to be crochet thread, shows through as a shadow organdy, or satin-stitch foot applications if needed) lengthened used with a decorative buttonhole twist, organza, or stitch topstitching thread batiste Embellished hemming: Lightweight embellishment techniques Loosen 1.6 to 2mm Fine used at hemline; especially wovens or knits suited to sheer fabrics Press hem to wrong side and sew Medium-weight Straight, scallops, or Flat-bottom zigzag foot from right side with stitching at least 2.5 to 3mm wovens or knits serpentine or satin-stitch foot 1/4 in. from the edge of the hem Appropriate to fabric allowance, then trim to stitching Normal and look desired Medium- to heavyweight 4mm needles or wider wovens or knits Twin Needle Reference Chart (continued) © 2003 The Taunton Press www.threadsmagazine.com Technique Fabric Stitch Upper Tension Foot Needle Thread Tips Pintucks Plain pintucks For all pintucks always stitch a test Straight, 1.5 to 2mm Narrow groove pintuck Swiss batiste 1.6mm, size 70 sample on a scrap of the fabric with long foot the grain direction the same as on the project. (Lengthwise pintucks are more difficult.) Stitch on oversized fabric before cutting pattern. Mark the Narrow groove pintuck 1.6mm, 2mm, or first pintuck (pull a thread, press a Light- to foot for closely spaced Straight, about 2mm 2.5mm, size 70 or 80 crease, etc.) and guide the remainder medium-weight needles and a larger Fine machine- long needles as appropriate from it using the pintuck foot as a wovens grooved foot for widely embroidery cotton: for the fabric and thread guide. Normal to slightly spaced needle Mettler 60/2, Madeira loosened; test or DMC 50/2, Coats Dual Duty Plus Extra Fine Lengthwise rows of pintucks are especially difficult. Prewash, then lightly spray-starch, and press the Polyester/cotton 5- or 7-groove pintuck broadcloth. Follow the same Straight 2mm, size 80 broadcloth foot guidelines as for Swiss batiste, except with a 5- or 7-groove pintuck foot and a medium-size cord, such as size 5 pearl cotton. See above for marking. Corded pintucks: cording incorporated on wrong side of Fine machine- fabric to stabilize pintucks and 1.6 to 2mm on embroidery cotton: See article in Threads No. 107, pp. Light- to reduce puckering Normal to slightly 5- or 7-groove pintuck lightweight fabrics; 2.5 Mettler 60/2, Madeira 58-61, for how to manage the cording. medium- weight Straight loosened; test foot to 3mm for medium- or DMC 50/2, Coats See above for marking. Use contrast wovens weight fabrics Dual Duty Plus Extra cording for shadow work effect. Fine.
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