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Bogotá Feliz Cumpleaños, Ratoncita (Happy Birthday, Mouse)

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Bogotá Feliz Cumpleaños, Ratoncita (Happy Birthday, Mouse) Bogotá Feliz Cumpleaños, Ratoncita (Happy Birthday, Mouse) Saturday, January 2, 1993 The American Airlines flight from Miami to Bogotá was a great flight and landed on time (9:36 PM). Bogotá recently instituted a double daylight savings time so that they now are one hour ahead of Miami time. Mark feels that this adjustment was made to keep Columbia on the same time as Venezuela. Customs was easy - no one looked at any bags that I could determine. There were only four agents trying to record the passport numbers of an entire Airbus 330 so it did take a little while to process everyone. We finally cleared immigration and saw Mark and Esmeralda through the glass doors, along with another six more people. Hugs and kisses were exchanged and we all headed out to find a collective (van taxi) and loaded up the bags. As soon as we were all in the cab the driver noticed that he had a flat tire so we had to off-load while he changed it. Then we were on our way to the Godoy home. The family consists of Noé, Edilma, Edilmita (little Edilma), Adolfo, Adriana and her four-year-old son Danilo, and Esmeralda. We exchanged gifts and we both received a ruana (wool poncho common to this region). Liz received a trenza de la abundancia (braid of abundance), which is their version of a cornucopia and consists of little pottery jars filled with various grains and seeds. You hang them in your kitchen and you will always have food in the house. Mark, Esmeralda and the Godoy’s also gave Liz pearl earrings and a bracelet. We had brought a set of Silverstone II pots and pans, a hand held chess computer for Don Noé, Captain Marvel Jr. and Spiderman figures for Danilo as well as a North American Indian tepee. Mark received a scanner for his computer and Esmeralda got a first grade picture locket of Mark on a silver chain plus photo sweatshirt that Lydia had made of them. We also had Where in the World, a geographical board game in Spanish, and a mystery game for Mark’s computer plus the Windows package with operations manual for his computer. We had ajíaco for supper. This consists of chicken, potatoes, and papas criollas (little potatoes), which taste buttery in themselves and are eaten much like French fries. They also had a birthday cake with Feliz Cumpleaños, Liz on the top. We stayed up drinking Aguardiente (anise flavored whiskey) and a bottle of Jack Daniel’s that we brought down. We all stayed up until 02:20 AM! [Sueno del Muerte (sleep of the dead)] 141 Domingo, 3 Enero Power is off (usually) from 7:00-9:30 AM and 5:00-7:30 PM each day except Sundays and holidays (the legal holiday for El Dia de los Reyes - Epiphany - will be on the 11th). Mark says that the power rationing is because politicians have stolen the money already designated to build more power plants. The power rationing means that the small electric water heater loses heat quickly and one must share the water with all of the family as all of the Godoy’s still live at home. You turn on the shower briefly, wet down, shampoo and soap, and then turn water back on to rinse. Desayuno (breakfast): arepas (two 1/8 inch white corn meal patty made with a whipped cream the consistency of whipped butter and a feta-like cheese between them) that is griddled into a ¼ inch pancake; and tinto (espresso) that is very good. We give Don Noé a quick lesson on how to use the chess computer. The gift was Mark’s suggestion but Mark is computer literate and likes them. Don Noé is apprehensive of the game and usually Adriana is the only one we see using the game while we are there. After the lesson we took a taxi to the Sunday Market, which featured crafts and second-hand items. Bone grinding poverty is evident everywhere. Beggars easily spot that we are foreigners but they don’t single out us any more than they do the other shoppers. We find little figures - buseta (little bus); flota (inter-city bus); iglesias (church); chiva (open bus); mochila (bag, back-pack); molinillo (hot chocolate wood stirrer/whip); and cazuelas de barro (pottery bowls in wicker baskets). After the market we went to Oma y Libros for beer and collected some matches since they say “Oma” on them. Almuerzo (merienda or lunch, the main meal of the day): We had patacones (twice deep fried plantains, considered a vegetable as opposed to the banana which is a fruit), ají (very hot tomato-less salsa, yuca (starchy root with a potato texture), corazón (heart), chunchullo (tripe), bofe (lung), papas (potatoes) and ají de aguacate (avocado salsa). This was 142 prepared on the grill in the back courtyard and served with cerveza (beer) The house reminds me of the French Colonial architecture I saw in Saigon. It is a two-story structure with a wrought-iron gate that is right at the sidewalk and opens to provide a parking space in front of the house and is leased to someone. Next to the parking court the remainder of the front line of the house has a little lawn and a palm tree/shrub. The first floor consists of a half bathroom just to the right of the entry; a staircase and, straight ahead, the kitchen and entry to the back court; to the left is the living room and dinning room. Upstairs are four bedrooms and a ¾ bath. The house is made of red building blocks faced with plaster. The backcourt holds a one room set of quarters with a ¾ bath which used to be a maid’s quarters but is now where Mark lives. Bogotá is listed as 5 million people in my 1989 guidebook with 3% annual growth. Mark says it is now 8M people and the government can’t really get a handle on how many people live there. It lies on a large plateau at 8,600 feet and butts up to a mountain range (10,000 - 11,000 feet) to the east. The main growth of the city is north/south. The further north you go the wealthier are the people. The Godoys live on Carrera 26, 71A-61 that means they live on road 26 and 71st street, 61 meters from the corner. This system is the neatest street numbering I have ever seen. Because of the elevation I forget how powerful the sun is. It is cool but the sun burns my head, neck and arms. I will peel for a couple of days and make sure I get a straw hat to prevent further burning. Don Noé used to be in the Customs Department but had a reversal of fortune when the liberals came into power eight years ago. He lost his position and had to sell both cars and, three years ago, had to sell their house. They then took their resources and bought a store that sells disposable items. The shop looks about the size of a one-car garage (as do the other shops on his street) and is located about eight blocks from the house. You open a roll-up door and there are two glass counters that roll up to the sidewalk and serve to block entry. They sell paper and plastic cups, plates, utensils, napkins, aluminum foil, plastic wrap, and ketchup and mustard containers. In this shop Don Noé, Edilmita, Adolfo, Adriana, Esmeralda and two hired hands work. I am not sure how or why the place holds so many people, certainly there can’t be that much work to inventory the place or move the stock. The store is open seven days a week. Edilma stays at home and with the help of a day maid that is mute she cleans the house and cooks lunch, which one of the hands comes to pick up around 1:00 PM each day. Normally the maid is shared with the next-door neighbor but worked full time at the house while we were there (@ about $3.00 a day). We have not seen Mark so animated and so much in love. He and Esmeralda are very much in love and extremely happy. Mark dotes on her. We couldn’t wish for more in his life than such love and affection. Esmeralda is the youngest in the family (she will be 21 in June). She attended Convent School (parochial school), which she hated and forced herself to flunk out to quit. She has been working hard to recover the two years she lost in the process and just graduated from high school in December. She would like to attend a bilingual secretarial school next and Mark looks forward to teaching her English. Company starts coming in. Hugs and kisses to everyone every time you enter or leave the house. Even if you just go to the corner store to get a pack of cigarettes (Mark does often, he doesn’t buy a carton at a time as then everyone would smoke them). As it is no one smokes a cigarette, everyone smokes the cigarette. If one-person lights up a cigarette the others ask to have a puff and then pass it around. More company comes and the music is put on - loud. There are a lot of adults and young children. This is a large extended family and they treat Mark well. All are dancing.
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