Sicily the San Vito Lo Capo and Made from 100% Virgin Fibre Sourced from a Cipcatalogue Record Isavailable from Library

This bookbelongsto: otherwise without prior writtenotherwise withoutprior ofthecopyright owner. permission form orby any means, electronic, mechanical,photocopying or A guideto rock climbing in reproduced, stored inaretrieval system, ortransmitted inany Cover: This book is printed on FSC-certified paper This bookisprinted onFSC-certified Sicily the San Vito Lo Capo and made from 100% virgin fibre sourced from A CIPcatalogue record isavailable from Library. theBritish Daimon Beail Palermo areas ofSicily Some maps based on original sourceSome mapsbasedonoriginal data from All rights reserved.All rights ofthispublication may Nopart be Text, crag photos andtopos by Daimon Beail Ben Rueck onCHR.IS.TO (7c+)-p.120at Grotta diCala Mancina. Photo: Jeff Rueppel Printed Limited inEurope LFBookServices This page: Lucy Groen onSilvester Edited by Alan James andRebecca Ting Maps by Reeves Mark and Alan James Published by ROCKFAX inMarch 2021 (ISO 14001 printers) andFSCcertified Distributed by Cordee (cordee.co.uk) Fax60 -ISBN978187334168 Other photography ascredited sustainable forestry -p.163attheBunker. openstreetmap.org © ROCKFAX 2021 (6a) 1 Palermo Area Custonaci Area Macari and Castelluzzo Scogliera - Far South Scogliera - South Scogliera - El Bahira Scogliera - Central Scogliera - North Monte Monaco Cala Firriato Area Contents Sicily 3

Introduction ...... 4 Rockfax Digital ...... 8 Symbol and Topo Key ...... 9 Acknowledgements ...... 10 Rockfax Publications ...... 12 Area Cala Firriato Sicily Logistics ...... 14 When to Go ...... 16 Transport and Accommodation . . . .18 Food and Local Holidays ...... 20

Other Activities ...... 22 Monaco Monte Walks ...... 23 Sicily Climbing ...... 24 Gear ...... 26 Grades ...... 28 Access and Bolting ...... 30 The Climbers' Code ...... 32 Scogliera - North List of the Best Routes ...... 34 Destination Planner ...... 38 Cala Firriato Area ...... 40 Rocca Firriato ...... 42 Cala Firriato ...... 50 Scogliera - Central Monte Monaco ...... 54 Nuova Ossessione ...... 58 Sperone Est ...... 66 Cattedrale nel Deserto ...... 74 Parete Nord ...... 84

Pizzo Monaco ...... 90 Bahira Scogliera - El Il Grande Occhio ...... 94 Valanga ...... 98 Scogliera di Salinella - North . . . 104. Scogliera di Salinella - Central . . . . 148 Scogliera di Salinella - El Bahira . . 200 Scogliera - South Scogliera di Salinella - South . . . . 218 Scogliera di Salinella - Far South . . 250 Macari and Castelluzzo ...... 276 Timpone Ridge ...... 280 Placca di Macari ...... 282 Rocca Perciata ...... 284 Scogliera - Far South Scogliera - Far Torre Radio Nord ...... 288 Lost World ...... 290 Castelluzzo Outdoor Wall . . . . . 296 Crown of Aragon ...... 302 Cinema Paradiso ...... 310

Custonaci Area ...... 316 Macari and Castelluzzo Never Sleeping Wall ...... 320 Grotta di Cerriolo ...... 326 Rocca di Cerriolo ...... 330 Palermo Area ...... 340

Mariella Crack'n Up ...... 346 Area Custonaci Valdesi ...... 352 Roccia dello Schiavo ...... Guidebook . 368 Footnote The inclusionBauso ofRosso a climbing . area. . in .this . guidebook . . . does. . not380 mean that you have a right of access or the right to climb upon it. The descriptions of routes within this guide are recorded for historical reasons only and no reliance should be placed on the accuracy of the description. The Routegrades set Index in this .guide . . are. . a .fair . assessment. . . . of the394 difficulty of the climbs. Climbers who attempt a route of a particular standard should use their own judgment as to whether they are proficient enough to tackle that route. This book is not a substitute for experience

Crag and Buttress Index . . . . . 399 Area Palermo Cindy Gabbet on Frederich (7a+) - p.334 - at and properMap andjudgment. General The authors, Index publisher . . and. . distributors . . 400 of this book do not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers, third parties, or property arising from such persons seeking reliance onthe this Rocca guidebook di Cerriolo. as an assurance Photo: Emma for their Harrington own safety.

Palermo Area Palermo Area Custonaci Castelluzzo and Macari South Far - Scogliera South - Scogliera Bahira El - Scogliera Central - Scogliera North - Scogliera Monaco Monte Area Firriato Cala 4 the mostoutofyour climbinghere. Hopefully thisbookdoesjusticeto Sicily's climbingandwillinspire andinform you to make with areliable winter climate, friendly locals, great food holiday andabrilliant atmosphere. Most peoplewillcomehere routes to samplesingle-pitchsport inastunningseasidesetting adventures, andthere willsurely bemore oftheseto follow. and harder Sognid'Oro make thisaninteresting alternative for thoselookingfor longer multi-pitch routes, especially inSan Vito. Climbssuchastheaccessible ViadellePunte routes established back inthe1980s. The area isnow seeingre-equipment ofsomethe Multi-pitch climbingplays historical role withmany animportant oftheSan Vito multi-pitch Grotta diCerriolo. to uptoplenty goatright thehighestgrades includinganOndra 9a-Climbfor Life inthe and 6c. Climbers questingfor harder stuff willnotbedisappointed though,andthere is The grade range isgoodandthere are routes lotsofquality 4a for thoselookingbetween roofs. tests, crimpy technical slabs, tufa-infested caves, deepwater solosandpowerful futuristic cityscape ofPalermo. ofroutesThe variety beginnerclimbs, ranges longstamina from short outlooks over theMediterranean, themagnificentcoastal mountains andthedramatic The climbingaround San Vito andPalermocliffs isonsomeglorious withspectacular many others, transformed climbingdestination. thearea into classsport aworld Scott Titt began and,withthehelpof the biggestonslaughtofboltingintheisland'shistory on the4kmlongcliffs ofScogliera diSalinella. In2006Josef Gsttottenmayr andJim Arena recognised itshugepotential, climbsaround establishing Monte sport Monacoand alongthe coastinthesummerholiday ofSanit was resort further Vito LoCapo. Daniele The massexplosion didnotarrive until2003and,instead inactivity ofitbeingPalermo, circuit.international low-key climbinginthe1990s boominsport alsofailed to establish Sicily's place onthe 1940s whenthefirst forays were madeonto the mountains above Palermo. Asubsequent However, goingback ofclimbingontheislandislongandrich alltheway thehistory to the seat to thepopularwinter sunofthesouthFrance, theSpanishCostas andKalymnos. Sicily hastaken alongtimeto establish itselfasaclimbingdestination,having taken aback Sicily Introduction guidebook as anassurance for theirown safety. from arising such persons seekingrelianceproperty onthis ordamage causedto,injury orby, climbers, or third parties, and distributors of this book do not recognise for any liability for experience andproper judgment. The authors, publisher enough to tackle thatroute. This bookisnotasubstitute use theirown judgmentasto whetherthey are proficient Climbers whoattempt aroutestandard should ofaparticular this guideare afair assessmentofthedifficulty oftheclimbs. placed ontheaccuracy ofthedescription. The grades set in recorded for historical reasons only andnoreliance should be upon it. ofroutesThe descriptions withinthisguideare mean thatyou have to ofaccessortheright climb aright The inclusionofaclimbingarea inthis guidebookdoesnot Guidebook FootnoteGuidebook Introduction Photo: MassimoCappuccio Inset 4:BoatsatMondello. Photo: MassimoCappuccio Inset 3: Lemonstall atMondello. beach atSan Vito. Inset 2: Monte Monacofrom the Inset 1: SignatElBahira Photo: Jeff Rueppel from Crown of Aragon. Main: Monte Cofano viewed Sicily 5 Palermo Area Custonaci Area Macari and Castelluzzo Scogliera - Far South Scogliera - South Scogliera - El Bahira Scogliera - Central Scogliera - North Monte Monaco Cala Firriato Area

Palermo Area Palermo Area Custonaci Castelluzzo and Macari South Far - Scogliera South - Scogliera Bahira El - Scogliera Central - Scogliera North - Scogliera Monaco Monte Area Firriato Cala 6 ukclimbing .com/logbook. The bestplace to give feedback isthrough theroute listing alsoontheUKCLogbookpages Feedback cataloguing ofroutes over theyears and allthosewhohave submitted route feedback. Special thanksto theUKClimbing.comlogbookmoderators, Scott inparticular Titt for his An onlineresource to theSan Vito area. Jim Titt -BoltProducts Climb Sicily A basicappfor iOSand Android for San Vito andPalermo areas. Daniele Arena, Luca Girgenti, Mirko Cangiamila Climb Advisor A basicguideto thearea ofSan Vito produced by Vertical Life. Manuel Senettin, Thomas Hofer -2013 ClimbinginSicily -San Sport Vito LoCapo(1stEdition) especially multi-pitch climbs. drawn topos. Usefulfor additionalcrags inthePalermo area A comprehensive guideto thewholeofSicily often usinghand Massimo Cappuccio, Chiara Cianciolo, GiuseppeGallo-Oct2015 Di Roccia DiSole-ClimbinginSicily (4thEdition) publication focusingA German ontheSan Vito area. Karsten Oelze, Harald Röker -Jan 2020 Sicily-Rock (7thEdition) documenting thedevelopments oftheseareas. Palermo andwe are grateful to allthosewhohave contributed to This isnotthefirst guide to documentclimbingin San Vito and PrintOther andDigital Publications better developed crags inthearea. information. The sectiononPalermo covers the mostpopularand older traditional climbsdate back to the1980s andhave limited traditional and deepwater soloingfound inthisarea. Someofthe CastelluzzoMacari, andCustonaci. Itaimsto cover allthesport, Sicily intheprovince of Trapani. This includesSan Vito LoCapo, The book'sfocus istheclimbingfound of onthenorthwest Coverage publications print followingperiodic thisone. coverage oftheclimbingonislandwithongoingupdates to thedigital coverage and The area isstillbeingdeveloped sowe willbeaddingto itto make sustainable long-term information inthisguideisasup-to-date aswe canmanageunderthecircumstances. and digital publications. Although slightly impacted by the2020Covid-19 pandemic, the available. This isdonethrough theuseoflatest technology across bothourprint Rockfax isto make anduser-friendly themostinspiring guidesto climbinginformation This isthefirst Rockfax guide to the San Vito and climbingareas.Palermo Ouraimwith Sicily bolt-products .com/ClimbSicily .htm Introduction climbingspotfactory .com DWS area ofCala Firriato. Photo: Jeff Rueppel. Lena Palmer on Techre Introduction (6a) -p.53 -atthe Sicily 7 Palermo Area Custonaci Area Macari and Castelluzzo Scogliera - Far South Scogliera - South Scogliera - El Bahira Scogliera - Central Scogliera - North Monte Monaco Cala Firriato Area 8 Sicily Rockfax Digital Symbol and Topo Key Sicily 9

Cala Firriato Area Rockfax Digital brings together all the current Rockfax print publications Route Symbols Topo Key with UKC Logbooks and presents it in a user-friendly package for use on mobile devices. 1 A good route which is well worth the effort.

2 A very good route, one of the best on the crag. Area Cala Firriato The heart of Rockfax Digital is the crag and route information covering Descent individual crags, or bundles of crags, in 'areas' which correspond roughly A brilliant route, one of the best in the area. Monte Monaco 3 Variation to printed guidebooks. The main data is sold by subscription so that you (see route Technical climbing requiring good balance and technique, description) can purchase access to all the Rockfax information for a period of time, t or complex and tricky moves.

from one month to yearly. Once you are subscribed, you will have access Powerful climbing; roofs, steep rock, low lock-offs or Monaco Monte p long moves off small holds. Equipped to Rockfax Digital for the period of your subscription. You can download belay Sustained climbing; either lots of hard moves or steep

Scogliera - North Scogliera the main data and store it on your device so you don't need any signal s rock giving pumpy climbing. to be able to read the descriptions and see the topos and maps. There is 50m Fingery climbing with significant small holds on the hard Unequipped Abseil also plenty of free content available without subscription, enabling you to f sections. belay descent get a really good impression of what Rockfax Digital is like without shelling out any money. h Fluttery climbing with fall potential or a scary run-out. Scogliera - North Approximate A long reach is helpful, or even essential, for one or more Lower-off heights Scogliera - CentralScogliera Rockfax Digital is available r of the moves. as an app which is free to download and o A dynamic move - a 'dyno' - is required. incredibly useful in its

Some loose rock may be encountered. 25m Scogliera - Central own right. It contains a l Graunchy climbing. Either wide cracks or thrutchy and Scogliera - ElScogliera Bahira detailed crag map linked k awkward moves. to the UKClimbing crags A trad route, or partially-bolted route, where a rack of database currently with n gear is required. basic information and A route which shouldn't be climbed in its described state. route lists for around a Bad/missing bolts or access problems. Bahira Scogliera - El 20,000 crags worldwide. Crag Symbols Scogliera - South Scogliera The map also displays 4 5 Part-bolted Angle of the approach walk to the crag with the 3 1 2 or trad route all the 4,000+ listings 14 min approximate approach time. S Fully bolted white-red from the UKClimbing route Approximate time that the crag is in the sun (when it is Scogliera - South yellow-red Directory of climbing walls, E shining). Approach

Scogliera - FarScogliera South outdoor shops, climbing The crag is exposed to bad weather and will catch the clubs, outdoor-specific Buttress on another page $ wind if it is blowing. page accommodation and instructors and guides, amongst others. The crag can offer shelter from the wind. Can be a * suntrap - good in winter, bad when hot. To find the app, search for 'Rockfax' in Google or on the appropriate store. South Scogliera - Far The crag suffers from seepage. It may well be wet and

Macari and CastelluzzoMacari Map Key To subscribe, go to rockfax .digital @ unclimbable after prolonged periods of rain. QR code for map for scan A crag The crag is steep and may offer some dry rock to climb smartphone UKC Logbooks ! when it is raining. Different chapter navigation A popular method of logging your climbing is to use the UKClimbing .com logbooks system. to parking The buttress has some multi-pitch routes. Trees This database has more than half a million routes on 20,700 crags. So far, just over 47,000 K Macari and Castelluzzo users have recorded more than 7.5 million ascents! To set up your own logbook just register A Roads Path

Custonaci Area A crag An abseil approach is required. Track at UKClimbing .com and click on the logbook tab. You will be able to record every ascent J page you make, when you did it, what style you climbed it in and who you did it with. Each entry Deserted - Currently under-used and usually quiet. Sandy GPS Coordinates Additional

has a place for your own notes. You can also add your vote to the grade/star system which Fewer good routes or remote and smaller areas. beach of parking Area Custonaci parking is used by guidebook writers to get opinions on grades and quality of routes. The logbook Quiet - Less popular sections on major crags, B Roads or good buttresses with awkward approaches. Map Icons can be private, public or restricted to your own climbing partners only. Town/village Palermo Area Rockfax Digital can be linked to your UKClimbing .com user account and logbook so that Busy - Places you will seldom be alone, especially at you can record your activity while at the crag. To do this you will need a 3G/4G/5G data weekends. Good routes and easy access. See p.19

connection. You can also look at the UKC logbooks to see if anyone has climbed your Crowded - The most popular sections of the most popular Quarry Area Palermo chosen route recently to check on conditions. crags which are always busy. Scale 10 Sicily Acknowledgements Acknowledgements Sicily 11

Cala Firriato Area This book has been lurking in the background since 2012 and it feels a long time since I I would also like to thank the staff at El Bahira who have been took my first trip to Sicily. Things have changed significantly in that time, not only in terms very accommodating and always provided a friendly face over of the climbing, but for the area itself. Until now, it has not felt like the right time to release the years. I'd also like to give a special thank you to Daniele

a book since the pace of development has been so rapid and it would inevitably have been Arena for his hospitality just before the 2020 lockdown and for Area Cala Firriato out of date immediately. The area is still growing, but many of the crags have reached a his dedication to the area, particularly his re-equipping efforts. level of maturity and the pace of new routing has slowed down somewhat. Big thanks to the Rockfax team - Alan James, Rebecca Ting Monte Monaco and Stephen Horn - for their support throughout this process. Much work has been done with regards to

documenting the area over the years and the person Daimon Beail, Jan 2021 Monaco Monte I need to thanks the most is Emma Harrington. Her Rockfax is grateful to the following for their

Scogliera - North Scogliera help, motivation and patience has been invaluable, joining me on hundreds of line checks, both visually support of this guidebook. and physically, including intense working schedules Awesome Walls - p.2 testing and recording climbs. Many route checks awesomewalls .co .uk Scogliera - North required a head torch in order to get the work done as BMC Travel Insurance - Inside back cover

Scogliera - CentralScogliera we climbed into the night. Having someone by your thebmc .co .uk/insurance side who understands the intense process of guide Mountain Equipment - Outside back cover writing is invaluable. mountain-equipment .co uk.

RAB - p.17 Scogliera - Central rab .equipment Scogliera - ElScogliera Bahira Petzl - Back cover flap petzl .com/GB/en Scogliera - El Bahira Scogliera - El Scogliera - South Scogliera Scogliera - South Scogliera - FarScogliera South Scogliera - Far South Scogliera - Far Macari and CastelluzzoMacari

A big thanks to Alan James and Nigel Boothroyd for spending a week with us and helping

with multi-pitch checking and action photography in San Vito and Palermo. Macari and Castelluzzo I would like to thank all those that have submitted photos for the guide. Sonnie Trotter, Custonaci Area Mike Hutton, Dave Pickford, Ramon Marin, Glyn Hudson, Mark Glaister, Natalie Kemp, Tim Croudace, Tim Skinner, Neil Foster, Roberto Zampino and Jeff Rueppel. I want to give a special thank you to Massimo Cappuccio and his supporting climbers for Custonaci Area Custonaci the action photo work they undertook in Palermo where they captured some fantastic shots to help shine fresh light on the area.

Palermo Area I would like to give a special thank you to all those who have developed climbs in the area - through sheer hard work they have transformed it into what we have today: Jim and Scott

Titt, Josef Gstöttenmayr, Daniele Arena and all the other climbers who have contributed. Area Palermo Nigel Boothroyd on Brock W.W. (5a) - p.102 - at the Where known we have credited the developers under the routes. picturesque crag of Valanga. Photo: Alan James

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Palermo Area Custonaci Area Macari and Castelluzzo Scogliera - Far South Scogliera - South Scogliera - El Bahira Scogliera - Central Scogliera - North Monte Monaco Cala Firriato Area

Palermo Area Custonaci Area Macari and Castelluzzo Scogliera - Far South Scogliera - South Scogliera - El Bahira Scogliera - Central Scogliera - North Monte Monaco Cala Firriato Area 16 12 16 12 82 Dec 10 19 15 19 80 Nov 8 74 17 24 22 Oct 5 38 28 20 24 Sep 1 13 31 23 26 Aug 2 1 30 22 25 Jul 9 2 27 22 20 Jun 4 18 18 15 23 May 7 16 12 20 41 Apr 9 11 17 15 46 Mar 9 10 15 15 52 Feb When to Go to When 10 15 12 15 64 Jan Sicily Logistics Logistics Sicily

Sicily Averages Sicily

Rainfall in mm / month Rainfall Avg Water Temperature Water Avg Temperature (minimum) Temperature Wet days (>0.1mm) / month days Wet Temperature (maximum) Temperature the supermarkets open as usual. are bars close down in the winter months. There are still a few places to check out though and out though and check places to still a few are There months. in the winter close down bars It is worth noting that San Vito is a summer holiday resort and many of the restaurants and resort of the restaurants and many a summer holiday is Vito It is worth noting that San when other areas are poor. are when other areas can be exciting to watch). The area also has its own climate which can bring good weather climate also has its own The area watch). to can be exciting occasional thunderstorm and also vortex activity (including water spouts in the bay, which in the bay, spouts activity (including water and also vortex occasional thunderstorm The steep mountains around the San Vito peninsular have been known to trigger the to been known peninsular have Vito the San around mountains The steep afternoon options. afternoon facing walls including those on Monte Monaco - check the table on p.38 - which may offer offer - which may on p.38 the table Monaco - check those on Monte including walls facing mornings and cooler evenings for climbing with a siesta in between. There are some east- are There in between. a siesta climbing with for mornings and cooler evenings is not always easy to find. In these conditions it is a good idea to start is a good idea In these conditions it using the shady early find. to easy is not always More often than not, the problem is the heat and with many of the crags facing west, shade shade west, facing crags of the heat and with many is the the problem than not, often More tufas to seep. seep. to tufas downpours the rock is often dry within 30 minutes. Prolonged periods the will cause of rain Prolonged dry minutes. within 30 is often the rock downpours The winter months can have their fair share of wet weather but even after the heaviest of heaviest the after even but weather of wet share their fair can have months The winter are often clear blue skies, though less daylight to take advantage of. of. advantage take to though less daylight skies, clear blue often are temperatures are arguably in December and January when there is little humidity and there humidity and there is little when there and January in December arguably are temperatures to mid-May with the optimum time being mid-November to the end of April. The best April. the end of to mid-November time being the optimum with mid-May to round, although this isn't recommended! The main climbing season is from October through through October season is from The main climbing isn't recommended! although this round, When to Go to When climb all year to it is still possible say Some regions. all the Italian of is the hottest Sicily A water spout behind Monte Cofano. Photo: Tim Croudace Tim Photo: Cofano. spout behind Monte A water 16 16 Cala Firriato Area Monte Monaco Scogliera - North Scogliera - Central Scogliera - El Bahira Scogliera - South Scogliera - Far South Macari and Castelluzzo Custonaci Area Palermo Area 18 Sicily Logistics Transport and Accommodation Transport and Accommodation Sicily Logistics 19

Cala Firriato Area Getting There Without a Car Realistically, flying is the best option to get to Sicily from the rest of Europe. Palermo Airport It is possible to get by without hiring a car by basing yourself close to a crag, either in San (Falcone-Borsellino) (PMO) is the largest airport in the area and close to San Vito Lo Capo. Vito or El Bahira, though a bit of walking will be needed to get supplies. To get there take a

There are daily flights from all major European destinations throughout the year, though bus into Palermo before heading out to Trapani and then on to San Vito. Bus services can Area Cala Firriato these become more limited throughout the winter months. Many of the major budget airlines be few and far between in the winter months. If in a group a pre-booked taxi can get you

Monte Monaco fly here. where you need to go for about €80. If in a large group, you could get away with hiring a Ferries - For people wishing to cut their flying, or are on more leisurely tours, there are day single car if you are prepared to ferry people around. ferries from Naples, Genoa and Civitavecchia. There is also a short ferry from Villa San Giovanni to Messina, although that requires a lot of driving on either side. Where to Stay Monaco Monte Most climbers who visit for a week or more will want to base themselves around San Vito Scogliera - North Scogliera Getting Around and visit Palermo on a day trip. There is plenty available in the San Vito area - self-catering All major car hire companies can be found at the airport. apartments, villas and hotels. Some places are located conveniently for crags, in particular, San Vito Lo Capo - From the airport, or Palermo, head west on the A29 towards Trapani. El Bahira holiday park which is situated at the heart of the Scogliera di Salinella. The Take the turning towards Castellammare del Golfo on the SS731. Go through the south of English website sicily .co .uk is a useful resource. Scogliera - North the town and onto the SS187 towards Trapani, also signed to San Vito Lo Capo. After 22km Camping - There are two camping areas for those wanting something cheaper - La Pineta Scogliera - CentralScogliera turn right onto the SP16, signed to Custonaci, and follow this staying on the SP16 following and El Bahira. The latter even has its own climbers' kitchen complete with fingerboards! signs for San Vito Lo Capo. Both camping parks also have self-catering mobile homes and small apartments. Palermo - Mondello and the Palermo Area crags are only a 15 minute drive from the 30km airport, or around 1 hour and 25 minutes from San Vito Lo Capo. From the Airport, follow Scogliera - Central the A29 east for 14km to the turn-off signed to Tommaso Natale and Mondello. Scogliera - ElScogliera Bahira Rome Palermo Area Travel Insurance Naples Monte Gallo It is strongly advised that (511m) Scogliera di Salinella - North

travel, medical and rescue Palermo Airport Bahira Scogliera - El p.104 La Pineta (Falcone-Borsellino) San Vito Lo Capo insurance is taken out. Mondello Palermo (PMO) Isola delle Scogliera - South Scogliera Scogliera di Salinella - Central Monte Monaco Following Brexit it is unclear Femmine p.148 p.54 what the health cover Torre Tommaso Muzza Natale Scogliera di Salinella - El Bahira situation will be for British Monte Pellegrino p.200 (609m) Scogliera - South Monte Monaco travellers. EHIC (European Capaci A29 El Bahira (528m) Scogliera di Salinella - South Health Insurance Card) Pallavicino Scogliera - FarScogliera South Terrasini p.340 p.218 Rocca Firriato is valid until its expiry p.40 Scogliera di Salinella - Far South date and should then be A29 Bellolampo p.250 Macari replaced by the GHIC, Carini Macari and Castelluzzo Zingaro

although whether this South Scogliera - Far Nature p.276 gives the same cover is

Macari and CastelluzzoMacari Reserve Custonaci Area unclear. Rockfax strongly Palermo p.316 Monte Cofano Castelluzzo recommends (659m) thebmc .co .uk/insurance Cornino Montelepre San Martino Custonaci delle Scale

Purgatorio Macari and Castelluzzo Sperone Balestrate Custonaci Area Tonnare di Map Icons Bonagia Case Ciauli Accommodation Alcamo SP16 Partinico Camping Marina Altofonte Groceries Valderice Area Custonaci SS187 Erice Bar SS113 Restaurant/food Cafe

Palermo Area Balata Trapani Chemist Battaglia di Baida Castellammare Castle del Golfo Driving Times Train station Palermo Airport to San Vito - 1 hour 10 mins SS731 A29 Ferry port San Vito to Palermo crags - 1 hour 25 mins Piana degli Airport Area Palermo A29 Napola San Vito to Custonaci crags - 25 mins Albanesi Lighthouse Alcamo

Palermo Area Palermo Area Custonaci Castelluzzo and Macari South Far - Scogliera South - Scogliera Bahira El - Scogliera Central - Scogliera North - Scogliera Monaco Monte Area Firriato Cala 20 months and is a celebrity ofthearea. months andisacelebrity is theresident donkey whocollectstherecycling inthe busy summer the farms. Ifyou are staying inEl Bahira, say helloto who Brunella and are often strays, though somedohave on homesandalsowork a problem inthewinter months. Dogsare sometimesseenroaming the more humidmonths, mosquitos comeoutat nightbut thisisnot are notpoisonousandwillgetoutofyour way asyou approach. In the beaten track; there ismore but thanonevariety mostofthem only seetheirspineslying around. Snakes are sometimesfound off the mountains. Porcupines comeoutatnightthoughyou willoften can sometimesbespotted outinthebay andeaglesglidingaround fields withshepherds incloseproximity, eitheron slowlyfoot ordriving incars. Dolphins The San Vito area ishometo anarray ofanimals. Goats, cows andsheepoften grace the and WildlifeAnimals September - Temp RiCapuna, Cous Cous Festival August -BaglioOlioaMare Festival, San Vito Jazz, Bookwriter andbougainvillea (July -September) July -LudoFestival, SummerMusicFestival, SicilianEnvironment Film Documentary June -Cous Cous Festival Preview, San Vito Feast May -Marinfiore, Kite Festival - April Week ofMusic San Vito Festival Calendar Day),December (Christmas 26thDecember(StStephen's Day). November (AllSaints' Day), 8thDecember(Feast oftheImmaculate Conception), 25th Day), 1stMay (LabourDay), 2ndJune (Republic Day), 15th August (Ferragosto), 1st 1st January(New Year), 6thJanuary(Epiphany), March/April (Easter), 25th (Liberation April Public Holidays restrictive hours and/ormay close. get busier atthesetimesandsome(but notall)restaurants, shopsandbars have more Italian public holidays andfestivals keeping are aneye worth on,asclimbingareas can Public Holidays andFestivals (map p.319) isopenonSundays 13:30 close between anddoesnotnormally and16:00. open onSunday 08:00to 13:30. The EUROSpesaontheroad supermarket into Custonaci General opening hours are: Monday to Saturday 08:00to 13:30 -16:00 to 20:00. Some down into San Vito. There inthetown isanothersmallersupermarket aswell. For thoseself-catering, thelargest isMioMercato supermarket running onthemainstrip more limited inthewinter monthswhenitcanbesomethingofaghosttown. San Vito hasmany restaurants andbars offering fine food, but theselectionissignificantly street food popularthere. isvery will stillbeable to findplenty toeat. If you happen to bespendingtimein Palermo, then ice cream soldfrom dedicated bars. Although alotofthecuisineismeat-based,vegetarians (which canbepricey) andofcourse theubiquitous pizza. isgelatoAnother localspeciality pasta andcannelonitosemolina-style nameafew. There are lotsofdifferent fishdishes Sicily isfamous around for theworld itsfood andwine-lemons, olives, couscous, fish, Food andSupplies Sicily Logistics Food and Local Holidays Brunella - atSeagull, Scogliera diSalinella -Far South. Photo: Alan James Daimon Beail onthefinishing bulge ofUpandDown(5c) - p.265

Sicily Logistics 21

Palermo Area Custonaci Area Macari and Castelluzzo Scogliera - Far South Scogliera - South Scogliera - El Bahira Scogliera - Central Scogliera - North Monte Monaco Cala Firriato Area

Palermo Area Palermo Area Custonaci Castelluzzo and Macari South Far - Scogliera South - Scogliera Bahira El - Scogliera Central - Scogliera North - Scogliera Monaco Monte Area Firriato Cala 22 outskirts of Trapani. outskirts shops andplacesto eat. Inadditionthere isacable upanddown carwhichruns to the of thesurrounding area. The town hasmany narrow streets, aswell asacastle, churches, the town isoften surrounded by clouds, but onaclearday you canexpect fantastic views The town for isagoodtrip ofErice thoseinterested (mapp.18). inhistory Sitting at750m, but withitssmallbeachesandcliffs avisit. itiswell worth (map p.18). There isasmallfee, the eastcoastofpeninsular the pointwhere theroad endson The Zingaro Nature Reserve isat the coasttowards Monte Cofano. out thebeachesstretching down On arest day many peoplecheck when conditionsare right. surfing isoccasionally possible popular alongthecoastlineand to befound here. Divingisvery ofwalking andbiking is plenty as Montidel Trapanese andthere mountains to thesouthare known the wonderful climbing. The toplenty offer inadditionto The San Vito peninsularhas Activities Other Sicily Logistics Other Activities Other summit on Monte Monaco (528m). San Vito LoCapo from the The historic town ofErice. p.320 Never Sleeping Wall Sleeping Wall. (Seeclosemapp.319). also getscloseto thespectacular Never longer andmore arduous undertaking. It the hill. Adding thesummitmakes ita gentle, except for thefirst section over approximately 3.5hours andisfairly mountain ina clockwise direction, takes Tonnara diCofano. Itgoesaround the Monte Cofano from the starts Torre della Monte Cofano- A circular walk around (See closemapp.59). views from thesummitare spectacular. around 3to 4hours upanddown. The from theeastorwest andittakes are afew ways to reach thesummit Monte Monaco-There which stand out. There walks are two camping grounds. is available from the Trails ExperienceMap signposted. The well marked and the pathsare generally and worthwhile very Walking inthearea is Walks Baglio Monte Cofano Cofano Monte Mogli Cornino Belle (659m) Custonaci GPS San Vito Torre della Tonnara di Cofano di Tonnara della Torre 12.679815 38.111660 Sperone

Beaches scan for map for scan Purgatorio Beaches Scogliera di Salinella p.290 World Lost Beaches Walks p.90 Pizzo Monaco San Vito Vito San Lo Capo Lo Beach Castelluzzo Macari SP16 p.302 Crown of Aragon of Crown Sicily Logistics Cattedrale nel Deserto p.84 Parete Nord SP63 GPS 12.743028

38.160609 scan for map for scan p.74 GPS Monaco (528m) Monte Monte 12.765591 Sperone Est Sperone 38.146942

5km p.66 scan for map for scan 23

Palermo Area Custonaci Area Macari and Castelluzzo Scogliera - Far South Scogliera - South Scogliera - El Bahira Scogliera - Central Scogliera - North Monte Monaco Cala Firriato Area

Palermo Area Palermo Area Custonaci Castelluzzo and Macari South Far - Scogliera South - Scogliera Bahira El - Scogliera Central - Scogliera North - Scogliera Monaco Monte Area Firriato Cala 24 (6b+) -p.356 -at Valdesi, above Palermo. Photo: Alan James Rebecca Costanza rock climbingthebrilliant onFurto d'Autire Climbing Sicily 25

Cala Firriato Area Gear Most routes are well equipped with solid bolts, especially in the San Vito region. 15 to 18 quickdraws is enough for most climbs - there are some super-long routes which will

require more, but you can borrow these from your mates! If you're planning on doing Area Cala Firriato any of the traditional/mixed multi-pitch climbs, bring a light trad rack including several

Monte Monaco slings. There are a few purely trad routes which require a full rack, though these are not documented in detail in this book.

Ropes - The majority of climbs are between 20m to 35m in length and a 60m rope can Monaco Monte leave you short in a lot of places. A 70m single rope is strongly advised and a small

Scogliera - North Scogliera number of routes need an 80m or longer (although these tend to have mid-point lower- offs). Most of the multi-pitch routes can be done on a single 60m ropes, but you are strongly advised to take two 60m ropes either for descent, or in case you have to retreat. Scogliera - North Other Gear - For multi-pitch routes, a small sack with a water bladder and a long-

Scogliera - CentralScogliera sleeved shirt is a good idea. It is recommended that you wear a helmet. A head torch is useful since it can get dark very quickly here in the winter months. There is also a floodlit crag (p.224) where a head torch is required for the unique experience of night climbing. Scogliera - Central

Scogliera - ElScogliera Bahira Route Lengths and Lowering Off The photo-topos have approximate heights indicated at specific points. These are guideline heights only and it is important to remember that crag bases are not always

level, people stand in different places when belaying and belays can be moved when Bahira Scogliera - El routes are re-bolted. Many climbers don't even know the exact length of their rope,

Scogliera - South Scogliera having chopped ends of worn rope off in the past. The golden rule is be on your guard on longer pitches and ALWAYS TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF THE ROPE TO PREVENT DROPPING A CLIMBER WHEN LOWERING THEM . Scogliera - South Scogliera - FarScogliera South Scogliera - Far South Scogliera - Far Macari and CastelluzzoMacari Macari and Castelluzzo Custonaci Area Custonaci Area Custonaci

Alan James and Nigel Boothroyd at the top of pitch 3 of Via delle Punte (5c) - p.70 - on Sperone Est. This Palermo Area full-day route needs careful planning, especially if you combine it with the top section of Sogni d’Oro to give 12 pitches and 400m of ascent. Take plenty of food

and water, clothing for a cold descent and a head torch Area Palermo each in case you take a little longer than anticipated. 28 Sicily Climbing Grades Sicily Climbing 29 Cala Firriato Area Sport Grades G The routes are graded using the for wellprotected routes customary sport grade. In general Cala Firriato Area Cala Firriato the area is in line with most other venues. Some of the routes are Monte Monaco new so a consensus may not have been reached on everything. If you

do find a route that is over or under Monaco Monte graded, please let us know through the UKClimbing .com logbook Scogliera - North Scogliera pages.

Trad Routes T Scogliera - North

Scogliera - CentralScogliera There selection of routes on Monte Monaco that require hand-placed gear to protect have been given sport grades as well since that is the local system. It should be Scogliera - Central

Scogliera - ElScogliera Bahira remembered that these routes are significant undertakings and you are advised to drop your grade by several notches if you attempt one of these routes. Bahira Scogliera - El Scogliera - South Scogliera Deep Water Soloing Q The one crag (Cala Firriato, p.50) Scogliera - South with deep water solo routes uses

Scogliera - FarScogliera South the S grade as a safety factor in addition to the difficulty grade. S0 - Safe in good conditions. S1 - Care required. Water depth needs checking, or a high crux. South Scogliera - Far

Macari and CastelluzzoMacari S2 - More care required. May have shallow water or require a push out in the event of a fall.

Colour Coding Macari and Castelluzzo All routes are given a colour-coded dot corresponding to a grade band. Custonaci Area Green Spots - Beginners - everything at grade 4c and under. Great to begin with.

Orange Spots - Regular - 5a to 6a+ inclusive. General ticking routes. Area Custonaci Red Spots - Advanced - 6b to 7a inclusive. Routes for the experienced and keen climber.

Palermo Area Black Spots - Expert - 7a+ to 7c+. Hard routes for dedicated climbers. White Spots - Elite - 8a and above. The hardest routes for the world's best climbers. Dave Pickford on The Wish (7c) - p.241 - at Pineta Grotta, Scogliera di Salinella - Area Palermo South. Photo: Dave Pickford collection. 30 Sicily Climbing Access and Bolting Sicily Climbing 31

The stretch of rock at the Pineta Cala Firriato Area Crag Access sector of Scogliera di Salinella - South There are no significant access issues to any of the crags listed in this guide. Please stick is often busy. This is understandable to the described footpaths, park responsibly and follow the Climbers' Code (p.32) so that as it offers pleasant long climbs on slabby rock with plenty of variety we can keep it that way. Approaches may change, although local climbers and landowners Area Cala Firriato to give each route its own lasting usually do a good job of indicating the new approaches. If you experience any access impression. Here Sara Ortiz is halfway

Monte Monaco issues then please email info@rockfax .com up the super Spigolo (6a) - p.235.

New Routes - San Vito Area If you wish to develop new routes then please Monaco Monte contact Daniele Arena (danielearena@hotmail .

Scogliera - North Scogliera com) first. This is important so that you can check if development is allowed on the cliff, get advice on bolting and ensure you are using

the correct bolts which need to be ultra-high Scogliera - North corrosion resistance to protect from the sea air. Scogliera - CentralScogliera No other bolts are permitted to be used in the San Vito area. A significant re-bolting program is underway and many inadequate bolts are

being replaced with corrosion-resistant bolts, Scogliera - Central specifically titanium ones. Scogliera - ElScogliera Bahira Bad Gear If you find routes with bad or missing bolts then

please let people know. The best way to do Bahira Scogliera - El this is to email Daniele Arena or on the UKC Scogliera - South Scogliera logbooks by logging feedback on the climb in question - UKClimbing .com.

Developers and First Ascents Daniele Arena. Photo: Jeff Rueppel Scogliera - South

Scogliera - FarScogliera South We have tried to list the first ascensionist and developer with each route. If a climb has one name then the route was bolted and climbed by the same person. If there are two names then the first name is the bolter and the second is the person who claimed the first ascent. This information isn't known for every route. Scogliera - Far South Scogliera - Far

Macari and CastelluzzoMacari Bolt Funding The development of routes has been self-funded by those noted in the guide. This is an expensive and time consuming activity. At the time of writing there are no funds which climbers can contribute to directly. Should this situation change then the bolt funds will be

added to UKBoltFund .org - a website maintained by UKClimbing Limited. Some of the Macari and Castelluzzo proceeds from the sale of this book will be made available for re-bolting initiatives in both Custonaci Area the San Vito and Palermo area. This will be done by supplying bolts to the local climbers active in rebolting. Custonaci Area Custonaci Palermo Area

Support local bolting volunteers Area Palermo UKBoltFund.org is maintained by UKClimbing/Rockfax.

Palermo Area Palermo Area Custonaci Castelluzzo and Macari South Far - Scogliera South - Scogliera Bahira El - Scogliera Central - Scogliera North - Scogliera Monaco Monte Area Firriato Cala 32 you needto andprotect others whendoingso. vegetation whenappropriate. Ensure you only garden what Gardening - Help keep routes free from plants by removing threading the lower-off wear. since this causes unnecessary Only top-rope usingyour own quickdraws, notdirectly by Top-roping -Avoid top-roping when thecrag is busy. to carshareand try to avoid fillingspots. upparking groupsLarge -Ifvisitinginalarge group, don'thogroutes sources, your bury waste outany paper. andcarry make sure you gowell away from thecrag andany water Sanitation -Ifyou have to goto thetoilet whenout, Don't lightfires -Asimplerule; nofires atany time! cars whenwe are empty outfor theday. problem inSicily, solet'skeep itthatway by leaving the Avoid leaving valuables incars -Car theft isnotabig dumped by otherlessconsiderate folk. #leavenotrace. out everything you to bring thecrag aswell asrubbish Take allrubbish home-Leave only footprints andtake those wholive nearby. Keep thenoisedown -Pleaserespect fellow climbers and create new paths. unnecessary Stick to theapproach paths-Avoid which shortcuts not available. orheadelsewhereto walk abitfurther ifnearby is parking Park considerately -Don'tblock accessandbeprepared The Climbers' Code Sicily Climbing The Climbers'Code A Climbers'Code - atNever Sleeping Wall. Photo: Dave Pickford onTearsRamon Marin ofFreedom Sicily Climbing (7a+) -p.323 33

Palermo Area Custonaci Area Macari and Castelluzzo Scogliera - Far South Scogliera - South Scogliera - El Bahira Scogliera - Central Scogliera - North Monte Monaco Cala Firriato Area

Palermo Area Palermo Area Custonaci Castelluzzo and Macari South Far - Scogliera South - Scogliera Bahira El - Scogliera Central - Scogliera North - Scogliera Monaco Monte Area Firriato Cala 34 Ω 7b+ Ω 7c Ω 7c+ Ω 8a Ω 8a+ Ω 8b+ Ω 9a and register your vote. list thengoonto UKClimbing.com/logbooks If you want to contribute to afuture graded listed inalphabeticalorder withineachgrade. create aproper graded listsotheroutes are At present we don'thave enoughvotes to This isalistofthebestroutes inthebook. Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω

*** 4:44 *** Underworld *** *** *** Insomnia *** *** *** *** Superman *** *** Spacelab *** *** *** CHR.IS.TO. *** *** *** *** Rambo. *** *** Dreamworld. . *** Articioc *** . . *** Beatrice *** *** Sicily Climbing The Wish. Red Alert Dimensione Rosso ...Comes True You Cannoli DieOncen. Stabilo Dave Gustas TuMe Man'sHeart BehindEvery Evil Lurks Terra Media Team Work Roof Rabbit Mega Dave Climb for Life . Balu Yoghi eBubu. All Cats are Black atNight Bauso Rosso Scogliera diSalinella-North of AragonCrown Scogliera diSalinella-North Lost World Scogliera diSalinella-South Scogliera diSalinella-South Sleeping WallNever Roccia delloSchiavo Scogliera diSalinella-South Parete Nord Sleeping WallNever Lost World Scogliera diSalinella-North Lost World Sleeping WallNever Scogliera diSalinella-North Scogliera diSalinella-North Scogliera diSalinella-North Rocca Firriato Il Grande Occhio of AragonCrown Scogliera diSalinella-South Grotta diCerriolo Grotta diCerriolo ...... List of the Best Routes List oftheBest cover, 122 . 328. 393. 290. 318 276 141 147 . 29. 85. 40...... 293 323 323 228 327 390 293 241 228 377 241 293 323 308 327 308 145 128 120 128 140 142 98 88 44 Ω 7a Ω 7b Ω Ω 7a+ Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω

*** Leuchtturm. . *** *** *** *** *** *** *** Tricheco. *** . *** Stramberia *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** Ketris. *** *** *** *** Soundgarden. *** Pipeline *** *** *** *** *** *** Il Signore degli Anelli. Il Salto dell' Acciuga. . Il Gatto ela Volpe Bella Susanna. Bat Killer Atmosfera Zero Tears ofFreedom Soul Kitchen La Stilista. La Salsiccia nonmiRinghia Hansel Grete. El Candelon. E' unMondoDifficile Box Kitty Extreme TeamBobos Banana Biological Assassinio NellaCattedrale. Zoichn Reissen Oidnschmeisn Sunshine Levin Il Paradiso nonpuo Attendere. Il Minotauro Come NellaPioggia. Lacrime I 2Storditi Feistus Reglettas. Blow n itupontheInternet Movimento 5Stelle La LinguaPura n deiMiracoliLa Corte . Scogliera diSalinella -North Valdesi Rocca Perciata Bauso Rosso Sleeping WallNever Cinema Paradiso Roccia delloSchiavo of AragonCrown Sleeping WallNever Lost World Scogliera diSalinella-South Rocca diCerriolo Parete Nord Nuova Ossessione Cinema Paradiso Bauso Rosso Nuova Ossessione Roccia delloSchiavo Cattedrale nelDeserto Lost World Il Grande Occhio Scogliera diSalinella-North Cattedrale nelDeserto Lost World Lost World Lost World Parete Nord Cattedrale nelDeserto CastelluzzoOutdoor Wall Bauso Rosso Scogliera diSalinella-South Cattedrale nelDeserto Scogliera diSalinella-South Nuova Ossessione ...... 33, 325. 309. 379. 321. 295...... 307 299 241 228 367 286 388 377 293 323 388 293 294 293 384 241 334 323 293 312 315 376 120 114 62 81 62 96 81 81 62 88 81 88 Ω 6c+ Ω Ω 6c Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω

. *** Longhorn *** 2019. *** Whitewall. *** Tratt *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** Whitewash . . *** *** *** *** *** Sicilia. *** Sgrilletta. *** *** *** Orso. *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** Bue *** *** Swissmade *** Quanto Sei!. Crucco Nanni Nani. Orient ExpressOrient . La Gattina Ubriaca Josef's Crack . deiNomadi . Il Ritorno Instabile . Equilibrio Clean Break. Cat Walk Toyo 17 Toro Rosso The Hole eGrida Sussurri Red Pillar. Paroleal Vento mai Troppoe' Non Tardi. No People NoStress. Niente ciFece Bella Vita La Gnammi al Tramonto.Dall'Alba Cinematogrfo Azzurro Assalti Frontali. Red Peroni. Scogliera diSalinella-ElBahira Rocca diCerriolo of AragonCrown Nuova Ossessione Scogliera diSalinella-Far South Scogliera diSalinella-Central Cattedrale nelDeserto Scogliera diSalinella-Far South Scogliera diSalinella-South Crown of AragonCrown Scogliera diSalinella-Far South Nuova Ossessione Lost World Scogliera diSalinella-North Scogliera diSalinella-Far South Scogliera diSalinella-South Valdesi Nuova Ossessione Scogliera diSalinella-Central Scogliera diSalinella-South Pizzo Monaco Valdesi Scogliera diSalinella-North Scogliera diSalinella-North Cattedrale nelDeserto Scogliera diSalinella-South CastelluzzoOutdoor Wall Scogliera diSalinella-Central Valdesi Scogliera diSalinella-North Valdesi Scogliera diSalinella-South Scogliera diSalinella-South Sperone Est ...... n ...... 353, 361. 331. 231. 59. 37. 79...... List of the Best Routes List oftheBest 271 334 293 357 246 226 306 306 266 266 239 258 367 228 246 299 357 356 228 216 154 140 169 169 134 134 121 61 63 92 61 72 81 81 Ω 6b+ Ω 6b Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω

*** *** *** Kellogs. *** *** *** *** *** Ferryman. *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** Sciacalletti. *** Savitri. *** Principino. *** Petka *** *** *** Minchiamannoia *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** Megghiu Pessi caDepressi. L'abito nonfa ilMonacon In SummeGelungen. Il Bocciato Il Barbagianni al VaticanoIci Doctor Creator. Crazy. Corner Cannolo Scomposto Allargalo Stretto. Alex G. West World Tower Route Thin Red Line Tetto DelMistero Per iNostri Amici. Orange Man Magic Mushroom. Lontana Sperlonga Long Sleep La Collina delConigli n Keep Cool Il Domatore diCapre. Giardino delleDelizie Furto d'Autore Fun to Funky Caduta Sassi. Break Time Scogliera diSalinella-Central Pizzo Monaco Cattedrale nelDeserto Scogliera diSalinella-South Valdesi Rocca diCerriolo Rocca diCerriolo Scogliera diSalinella-Central Roccia delloSchiavo Valanga Rocca diCerriolo Scogliera diSalinella-North Scogliera diSalinella-Far South Cinema Paradiso Scogliera diSalinella-Far South Scogliera diSalinella-South Valdesi Bauso Rosso Valdesi Nuova Ossessione Bauso Rosso Scogliera diSalinella-South Scogliera diSalinella-North Scogliera diSalinella-North Il Grande Occhio Roccia delloSchiavo Sleeping WallNever Parete Nord Rocca diCerriolo Scogliera diSalinella-North Mariella Crack'n Up Valdesi Scogliera diSalinella-South Scogliera diSalinella-South Scogliera diSalinella-Far South ...... Sicily Climbing ...... 24, 359. 269. 243. 316 173 ...... 385 388 356 336 256 350 226 367 337 336 372 265 230 358 241 335 356 239 322 228 266 144 154 170 144 137 314 145 102 374 61 93 96 88 76 35

Palermo Area Custonaci Area Macari and Castelluzzo Scogliera - Far South Scogliera - South Scogliera - El Bahira Scogliera - Central Scogliera - North Monte Monaco Cala Firriato Area

*** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** Rumba. *** *** Retrobolter. *** *** Pinelsa. *** *** *** *** E.J.A. *** *** Windstorm. *** *** *** Szvetlana. *** Super-G. *** *** *** *** *** *** *** Melchiorre *** *** Kronos. . Sicily Climbing Jammin' intheNameofLord Diretta (P1) Diedro Bianco Destra di Toro (P1) Ciocca Sciocca BraveOld Way . Bella Italia Todzora Tzocq Swiss Friends Storico -MilleBaci Rosso eNero Rabbia Nera Nina G. Monsters Versus Aliens. . Lo SpigoloMarisa Classic Delux. Via Rossa TantiDaniele Auguri Sogni d'Oro Silent Sleep. Rolling Stones . Riscaldamento Lento. Red Necks. Nine O'Clock ontheMoon Lavoro di Domenica. Scogliera diSalinella-Far South Scogliera diSalinella-North Scogliera diSalinella-Central Scogliera diSalinella-Far South Scogliera diSalinella-North Roccia delloSchiavo Valdesi Scogliera diSalinella-Far South Valdesi Scogliera diSalinella-South Scogliera diSalinella-South CastelluzzoOutdoor Wall Scogliera diSalinella-Central Scogliera diSalinella-Central Scogliera diSalinella-South Scogliera diSalinella-South Scogliera diSalinella-South Bauso Rosso Cattedrale nelDeserto Scogliera diSalinella-Central Scogliera diSalinella-Central Scogliera diSalinella-Far South Scogliera diSalinella-ElBahira Scogliera diSalinella-Central Scogliera diSalinella-ElBahira Scogliera diSalinella-South Scogliera diSalinella-Central Nuova Ossessione Scogliera diSalinella-Central Sperone Est Sleeping WallNever Bauso Rosso Nuova Ossessione Scogliera diSalinella-North ...... List of the Best Routes List oftheBest 205, 215. . 259. 345. 180 167 139 115 69. 14 ...... 227 230 272 259 357 372 355 234 235 298 228 388 268 239 323 384 266 216 168 138 178 212 160 197 198 162 169 121 165 115 78 62 70 62 Ω 4b Ω 4a Ω 4c Ω 5a Ω 5b Ω 5c Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω

*** *** *** *** *** *** *** . *** Crisi *** *** *** Ave. *** Ypsilon. *** Vortice. *** Traumpfeiler. *** Spigolo *** *** ** ** Duro. ** Simi ** Samuel ** ** ** ** ** ** Ninja ** ** Timmy Face Route Climb Easy Way ofLight. Close to Home. Via Egadi. Red Corner Just for Fun Under aDeadCow The Celestial Way oftheDeadCows Piu Facile. Sunset Arete Via dellePunte Still Pulling. Easy Over El Bahira G Erik Senza Scuola Rumanian Girls Scogliera diSalinella-South Scogliera diSalinella-Central Scogliera diSalinella-South Scogliera diSalinella-Central Scogliera diSalinella-South Scogliera diSalinella-Central Scogliera diSalinella-South Scogliera diSalinella-South Roccia delloSchiavo Scogliera diSalinella-South Scogliera diSalinella-Far South Rocca diCerriolo Scogliera diSalinella-Far South Scogliera diSalinella-Far South Scogliera diSalinella-Central Scogliera diSalinella-South Scogliera diSalinella-South Sperone Est Rocca diCerriolo Scogliera diSalinella-Far South Scogliera diSalinella-ElBahira Valdesi Scogliera diSalinella-South Scogliera diSalinella-North Roccia delloSchiavo Scogliera diSalinella-South Valanga Scogliera diSalinella-South Scogliera diSalinella-South ...... 26, 73. 237. 200. . 31...... 339 357 245 370 245 235 371 236 235 263 248 242 245 245 226 255 255 332 248 224 266 191 134 212 168 191 179 103 70 area ofScogliera diSalinella. Photo: NeilFoster Climber on Josef's Crack (6c+) -p.266 -attheSeagull

Sicily Climbing 37

Shelt- Dry in Multi- Routes up to 4c 5a to 6a+ 6b to 7a 7a+ to 7c+ 8a and up Approach Sun Seepage 38 Destination Planner ered Rain pitch Summary Page

A shady northwest-facing wall which is relatively unpopular yet has Cala Firriato Area - - 11 9 5 42 Rocca Firriato 25 F 30 - 34 min Y * ! @ some good routes. Worth a look when busy or hot.

Cala Cala A small DWS crag with good routes across the grades. A great place

Firriato 3 10 6 - - 50 Cala Firriato 19 G 15 - 18 min W * @ to go when really hot.

A magnificent leaning wall with brilliant tufa routes. East-facing Area Cala Firriato - 7 18 9 3 58 Nuova Ossessione 37 S 30 min W @ offering afternoon shade. The elegant tall spire on the east face of Monte Monaco. Two fully Monte Monaco - 2 3 2 - 66 Sperone Est 7 D 15 - 30 min W $ K bolted mid-grade routes and a few semi-trad adventures. A tall north-facing wall with crack and wall climbs. Some multi-pitch 1 10 36 14 1 74 Cattedrale nel Deserto 62 S 12 - 13 min U $ K routes and an easier slab. Massive north-facing wall with very long and adventurous trad and Monaco Monte - 2 9 4 - 84 Parete Nord 15 S 18 min Y $ K semi-trad routes.

Scogliera - North Scogliera A distinct pinnacle with a set of mutli-pitch routes. Some are mostly - 5 4 - - 90 Pizzo Monaco 9 S 8 min U $ K bolted and others are fully trad. Monte Monaco Monte Striking west-facing wall with great set of mainly harder routes. - - 5 3 6 94 Il Grande Occhio 14 S 25 min R * Superb rock and some tufas. An attractive smaller crag with a good set of slabby routes and a Scogliera - North - 14 7 2 - 98 Valanga 23 F 20 - 23 min R * steeper quarry which is a south-facing suntrap. Scogliera - CentralScogliera The northernmost section is the least developed so far although there 15 59 53 43 23 104 Scogliera di Salinella - North 193 A 5 - 30 min R * ! @ is still plenty left. Some striking cave sectors. The long middle section includes the tall Bunker and many other 9 139 79 17 4 148 Scogliera di Salinella - Central 248 A 1 - 24 min } * ! great walls. Scogliera - Central This section within the El Bahira campground is ideal for guests and 9 32 19 7 - 200 Scogliera di Salinella - El Bahira 67 A 1 - 3 min } * has a good selection of routes for all abilities. Scogliera - ElScogliera Bahira Some of the most popular climbs in the area on the well developed 13 69 53 27 6 218 Scogliera di Salinella - South 168 S 2 - 4 min R * ! @ section to the south of the campground. Some great walls as the cliff-line bends around. Includes the 10 64 44 9 - 250 Scogliera di Salinella - Far South 127 F 2 - 7 min R * ! impressive Isulidda Cave and Seagull areas. Scogliera - El Bahira Scogliera - El A striking ridge that is clearly visible from the road and gives a long 1 - - - - 280 Timpone Ridge 1 S 2 min E $ and easy scramble. Scogliera - South Scogliera Placca di Macari 10 - 10 - - - D 25 min E * This small slab has a good set of mid-grade routes in a sunny setting. 282 A shady north-facing wall with only limited development so far. Worth Rocca Perciata 14 - 6 6 2 - 25 - 30 min 284 S Y $ a look. Scogliera - South

6 - 1 2 3 - 25 min Another north-facing wall with limited routes. 288 Scogliera - FarScogliera South Torre Radio Nord F Y $ @ Spectacular west-facing cave with superb tufa formations. Awkward - - 7 15 - 290 Lost World 22 S 30 min R ! @ abseil access only. Nice wall with a small set of quality routes. Shady until late in the day Castelluzzo Outdoor Wall 11 - 1 7 1 2 18 - 20 min 296

F T @ but a slightly long approach. South Scogliera - Far

Macari and Castelluzzo A stunning long line of cliff with great rock and tufa formations. Good Macari and CastelluzzoMacari - 1 16 14 4 302 Crown of Aragon 35 S 12 - 15 min R ! @ routes but mostly in the higher grades. Can get hot. West-facing wall of good rock just beyond Crown of Aragon. Similar - 1 10 8 - 310 Cinema Paradiso 19 S 25 - 28 min U $ ! @ style of steep tufa climbs. A stunning showpiece wall of dripping tufa formations with amazing - 2 10 13 - 320 Never Sleeping Wall 24 2 min routes including some very long single pitches.

A R * ! @ Macari and Castelluzzo Steep cave with three striking hard routes including the area's Grotta di Cerriolo 3 - - - - 3 4 min 326 Custonaci Area S R * ! @ hardest - Climb for Life, 9a. Prominent buttress of rock with north, west and south-facing walls. Custonaci 5 20 17 13 4 330 Rocca di Cerriolo 59 A 2 - 10 min U * Good climbing across the grades.

East-facing wall with some single-pitch routes and a few appealing Area Custonaci - 11 14 5 - 346 Mariella Crack'n Up 30 H Roadside W K multi-pitch challenges. Brilliant west-facing wall with superb rock and great routes across the Valdesi 86 5 44 31 6 - Roadside 352 Palermo Area H R * ! grades. Virtually roadside parking. A big west-facing cliff with a good set of single-pitch routes. Also has Roccia dello Schiavo 69 5 37 22 4 1 10 - 12 min 368 Palermo S R some longer routes, although these are old.

Stunning west-facing suntrap with great rock and steep routes mostly Area Palermo - 4 24 51 6 380 Bauso Rosso 85 S 5 - 9 min E * ! @ in the harder grades. TOTALS 1488 72 551 512 280 68 Faded symbol means that only some of the routes are - sheltered / dry in the rain / multi-pitch / suffer from seepage