Western Sicily
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Western Sicily Why Go? Castellammare.. Sicily’s windswept western coast has beckoned invaders for del.golfo.......................88 millennia. Its richly stocked fishing grounds, hilltop vine- Scopello........................89 yards and coastal saltpans were coveted by the Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans and Normans, all of whom influenced the Trapani.......................... 92 province’s landscape and culture. Even the English left their Erice.............................. 97 mark, with 18th-century entrepreneurs lured here and made Egadi.islands................99 rich by one of the world’s most famous sweet wines, Marsa- Favignana................... 100 la. Today, this part of the island is a largely unexploited Levanzo.......................101 tourism treasure, perfect for those who savour slow travel. There’s an amazingly diverse range of experiences to be had The.Southwest........... 102 here. Standout attractions include the ancient ruins of Seg- Marsala....................... 103 esta and Selinunte, the hilltop village of Erice and the Golfo Mazara.Del.Vallo......... 106 di Castellammare, with its stunning juxtaposition of sea and Selinunte.................... 108 mountain scenery. Adding to Western Sicily’s appeal are its unique local cuisine and the region’s proximity to both the Palermo and Trapani international airports. Best Places to Eat ¨¨Il Veliero (p102) Road Distances (KM) ¨¨Al Solito Posto (p95) Scopello 75 ¨¨Syráh (p91) ¨¨Da Vittorio (p110) Segesta 50 30 ¨¨San Lorenzo Osteria (p106) Selinunte 45 70 60 Best Places to Trapani 30 35 30 95 Stay ¨¨Pensione Tranchina (p254) e ¨¨Il Profumo del Sale (p256) a ¨¨Marettimo Residence Marsala Scopello Segest (p256) Selinunt ¨¨Sicilia Cuore Mio (p256) ¨¨Cas’almare (p256) 85 Getting Around DON’T¨MISS Efficient train service links the coastal cities of Mazara del The cinnamon- and Vallo, Marsala and Trapani. Elsewhere you’ll benefit from saffron-infused fish having your own vehicle. Bus schedules are limited and couscous brought to become virtually non-existent on Sundays.The north-south this stretch of coast by A29 autostrada and its east-west counterpart A29D (A29dir the Saracens centuries on road signs) make driving a breeze between Palermo, ago. Prime venues for Selinunte, Segesta and Trapani. Smaller roads to San Vito a taste-test include La Lo Capo, Scopello and Saline di Trapani – all linked by the Bettolaccia (p95) in Strada del Vino Erice wine route – are scenic if slow. Trapani, Eyem Zemen (p107) in Mazara del Western Vallo and the THREE¨PERFECT¨DAYS annual couscous festi- Hike¨the¨Zingaro val (p91) in San Vito Lo Capo. s This 7km ramble dips in and out of several wild and icily gorgeous coves as it follows the rugged coastline north through Sicily’s oldest nature reserve (p89). Museums, beaches and picnic tables along the way offer ample g . o opportunities to catch your breath, catch some rays, or Best Historical lf take a swim. Sites o d ¨¨ Segesta (p88) i Commune¨with¨the¨Ancients . C Start your day at ancient Segesta (p88), strolling down ¨¨Selinunte ruins (p109) astellammare from the majestic hilltop amphitheatre to the site’s star ¨¨Museo del Satiro (p107) attraction, a perfectly preserved Doric temple on the ¨¨Museo Archeologico edge of a precipitous gorge. In the afternoon, picnic un- Baglio Anselmi (p104) der the trees at the Rocche di Cusa quarry, surrounded by half-finished columns abandoned by the Greeks over ¨¨Whitaker Museum (p103) two millennia ago, then move on to Selinunte, where the remains of eight great temples sit in splendid isolation by the sea. After a last look at the ruins from the beach Best Beaches below, it’s time for seafood and sunset at Da Vittorio ¨¨Spiaggia dei Faraglioni (p110) just down the road. (p89) Wine¨&¨Dine ¨¨Cala Minnola (p101) Tour the famous cellars (p105) of Marsala in the morn- ¨¨Lido Burrone (p100) ing, then head to Trapani for fish couscous or pesto alla trapanese (pasta with fresh tomatoes, basil, garlic and ¨¨Castellammare del Golfo almonds). After lunch, climb through vineyards to the (p251) hilltop castle (p98) at Erice, snack on some of Sicily’s ¨¨San Vito Lo Capo (p91) most famous sweets at Maria Grammatico (p98) and admire the setting sun over the stunning promontory at San Vito Lo Capo. Resources ¨¨Trapani¨Welcome (www. trapaniwelcome.it) Detailed information about Trapani Getting Away from It All province. ¨¨ (www. ¨¨Explore¨Mozia Once a thriving Phoenician settlement, this EgadiWeb off-the-beaten-track island (p103) is now home to abundant egadiweb.it) Guide to the bird life and an excellent archaeological museum. Egadi Islands. ¨¨ (www. ¨¨Get¨marooned¨on¨Marettimo The outermost of the Egadi Selinunte¨On¨Line Islands, Marettimo is as attractive for its lone whitewashed selinunte.net) Information village as for its fabulous network of pine-shaded walking about Selinunte’s trails. archaeological park..