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Magazine for & from Wine Lovers Nō. 2 MAGAZINE FOR & FROM WINE LOVERS INTROLUDE 3 Dear Austrian Wine Lovers Welcome to the second edition of We have interviewed Christoph our Toazine! (We hope you liked Hoch on his practices, and you the first one!). As usual, the new can also read a piece on herbs year is already in full swing. A by our “herb witch” Birgit. The great deal of the first months of famous vineyards of the Wachau the season we have dedicated are another subject we would to trade fairs – a challenging but like to plunge into with Erich important part of the business. Machherndl & Martin Mittelbach Feel free to take a look at how of Tegernseerhof. This is merely we do it! Yes, this topic is a highly an appetizer, find out more by discussed one in the light of the turning the pages… current developments as many fairs are being cancelled or post- Enjoy Toazine No. 2! poned. As all wine professionals and wine lovers, we hope that Yours, the situation will get back to normal Green is the colour of the moment, TOA Team as soon as possible. Fingers crossed! do you agree? We’re not necessarily (Franz, Birgit, Branko) speaking in terms of politics now but about the focus on sustainable wine growing. The judicious use of cover crops is a big topic for our growers. Content INTROLUDE ........................................................................................................... 3 OPINION : UNDER COVER ....................................................................................... 4 PORTRAIT : GRUBER RÖSCHITZ ............................................................................... 6 TALKING TO : NEIL LIN .......................................................................................... 8 PORTRAIT OF A REGION : WACHAU ........................................................................ 10 THE HERB WITCH PROJECT .................................................................................. 12 THE VINEYARD ALPHABET ................................................................................... 13 PORTRAIT : SABATHI ............................................................................................ 14 VINTAGE : 10 YEARS AFTER – RED EDITION ............................................................ 16 PORTRAIT : WEINGUT TRAPL ................................................................................ 20 FAIR BUSINESS .................................................................................................... 22 OUR PARTNERS .................................................................................................... 26 EVENTS ............................................................................................................... 27 4 O PIN I ON O PIN I ON 5 Top producers have long since realised that the work in the cellar is no longer the most important part of producing good wine. The real magic (and the lion's share of work) takes place in the vineyard. One secret of success is to let grow more than only the vine... COVER CROPS: ∙ break the grapevine monoculture The many benefits must have at Christoph, how do you Which seeds and plants do 4) How is the balance between ESSENTIAL HELPERS ∙ play an important role for the least some downsides too, as it apply cover crops? you use and why? the plants? Cover crop must not be biodiversity in terms of interaction seems, right? Now, for some growers one-sided since you can’t predict If you take a look at many regions’ with bacteria and fungi the competition for water, especially Our vineyards are divided into Well, there are quite a few – for me, the weather for the entire year. vineyards you can still see more than ∙ offer protection from erosion for young plants and in rather dry 4 different cover crop zones the most important thing is a good Having this in mind, I will not only one with neat rows of vines and and aerate the soil locations may seem an argument in terms of the seed mix. 3 of mix. Let me give you an example for seed rye but also plants which grow bare soils in between. Tidy and clean ∙ improve the availability of nutrients against cover crops. However, such them depend on the location a better understanding. a lot faster and consolidate the soil - an image that supposedly testifies which they turn into humus stress can be avoided by seeding (is it a rather rich or poor soil, (i.e. buckwheat) as well as small to good management and is often ∙ at the same time ensure positive the plants mainly before the winter is it extremely calcareous or 1) What’s the soil I’m dealing with proportions of blooming plants as the exact opposite. For the good competition between vine and period, by keeping the cover low “simply” calcareous?) and (proportion of loam and limestone)? a “pasture” for bees in order to producer, cover or vegetal crops have cover crop, thus moderate (flattening or mowing it) or by the goal for the respective encourage biodiversity. become an important part alternating its use in vineyard (depending on of the vineyard ecosystem every second row of the yield: rather more 5) Where’s the origin of my and one of the crucial factors vines. The right seed quantity or rather more plants? They should not be too for the quality of their wines. mix is crucial as well. quality?). As for the 4th exotic or unusual. There is a reason Like many things in life, the mix, we use it for what we why certain plants do thrive in management of these cover Cover crops for sure are call “soil recovery”. Here, our region – and others do not! crops is a mosaic of many a complex matter and the focus is not the grape, considerations and decisions, best practices heavily but only the soil (providing What will the future bring in which require coping with the depend on factors such nutrients, ensuring proper terms of cover crops in view terroir and specific strategies. as climate, respective rooting, green mass for of climate change? Let’s take a stroll through vineyard location, type creating humus and see- these “gardens of wine”. and condition ding plants on which also Naturally, we will have to adapt of the soil, age the bacteria and other organisms our approach to the changing In planting cover crops, of the vines and can spend the winter and simply conditions. We will have to use grasses, cereals, herbs and the wine- feel good). other (but still local) plants and legumes are sown and grower’s goals. pursue other goals, for example allowed to grow in order to We have Which pros and cons do cover break it down at an earlier stage. achieve a variety of positive interviewed crops have in your view? But let me repeat: the soil should effects. The entire ecosystem Christoph Hoch never be left open the whole (soil, plants, living beings) of the epony- Frankly, I do not really see cons year long! should benefit from these, mous biodyna- here. I believe that the soil should because one thing is clear: mic estate in never be left open during the entire the focus on the vine (or even grape) ∙ excessive growth while improving Kremstal’s Hollenburg on year! An open soil does not compete 2) Which grape variety, especially alone has no future. The soil is a grape quality his approach and practices. with the vine but after being left when it comes to vigor and sensitivity non-renewable resource and must ∙ improve water balance (which open for a longer period of time it to drought? therefore be preserved for future can be better absorbed and stored dries out and loses organisms. Of generations. Which are the main thanks to root systems building course, you can open it every now 3) What do I aim for? Let’s say it’s benefits of cover crops for the tunnels and loosening the soil) and then (i.e. in order to mobilise Riesling (high vigor and less sensitive vineyard ecosystem? They: ∙ offer food supply for beneficial nitrogen) but after that plants should to drought) growing on loess soil insects (via blossoms, biomass) be allowed to grow again. Thinking (rather rich soil and medium content and encourage biodiversity of it, actually the biggest “disadvan- of limestone). I will seed plants with ∙ prevent soil compaction and provide tage” is the human being taking the a higher demand for nitrogen and for a better trafficability (machines, wrong decision… (As for the benefits, which produce more carbon and I tractors) please see above). will have them grow until maturity ∙ serve as a shield against heat (cereals such as rye and oats). and drought I do this in order to reduce the vigor ∙ in general improve soil vitality of the Riesling and therewith the and its long term health susceptibility for diseases and rot. Fig. 1: Garlic © Branko Mucina Fig. 2: Christoph Hoch © Christoph Hoch 6 P ORTRAIT P ORTRAIT 7 MODERN FAMILY As already mentioned, the family their stamp on the wines, no matter GRUBER RÖSCHITZ – FAMILY TIES manages a rather large vineyard, if Veltliner, Riesling or Chardonnay. The village of Röschitz is situated with a total of 80 hectares. Not Sankt Laurent and Pinot Noir grow on the eastern foothills of the surprisingly, the wine portfolio is on the Galgenberg (granite with The Weinviertel is the largest wine-growing region in Austria and it Manhartsberg mountain range and also extensive, as such a size also loess topsoil) and highlight the is also the region where most Grüner Veltliner is grown. Among the provides ideal conditions for wine- brings with it a variety of soils and expressive way red wines from the countless wineries you will find every possible structure: large, small, growing – probably the best in the conditions. Depending on
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