BUYING GUIDE AUGUST 2012 Seifried Estate’s Brightwater in Nelson is planted with , , Gewürztraminer, Grüner Veltliner, and Zweigelt.

2 NEW ZEALAND 46 BURGUNDY 14 ARGENTINA 51 NORTHERN ITALY 21 CALIFORNIA 62 SPIRITS 36 OREGON 63 BEER

39 PORTUGAL FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT 42 ALSACE BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM PHOTO © KEVIN JUDD

WineMag.com | 1 NEW ZEALAND MORE DIVERSE THAN MEETS THE EYE

s Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski explains in his feature on New One of the beautiful characteristics of Pinot Noir is it’s ability to convey Zealand whites this month (“New Zealand’s Best White ,” a sense of place, reflecting where the vine was grown more than other vari- A page 50), there is far more to the country’s vinous offerings than eties. Although New Zealand’s regional system is nowhere near as compli- the sea of Sauvignon Blanc that has flooded retail shelves. While the wines cated as Burgundy’s, there are distinct differences between the country’s have brought increased attention and awareness to New Zealand as a qual- Pinot Noir-producing regions, from the cheerful accessibility of Marlbor- ity region of the world, there is a vast wealth of additional va- ough to the elegance of Waipara and the savory earthiness of Martinbor- rieties and styles worth exploring. ough. The current emphasis on single vineyard wines or block selections The whites are well covered in Czerwinski’s article, as consumers are takes this sense of place even further, offering consumers the opportunity encouraged to search out other varieties that are extremely suitable to the to experience even more specialized and unique epressions—at a fraction country: , and Riesling, just to name a few. Not only of the cost of many French counterparts. do the wines rival their more traditional Old World counterparts (think If Pinot Noir is generally not your of choice, alternatives still Burgundy and Alsace), but they are also sold at amazingly attractive pric- abound. that seem to lie somewhere in the middle of traditional Old es, making them some of the best values to be discovered both on retail and New World styles, and Bordeaux-style blends that amaze for their bal- shelves and restaurant lists. ance of ripe fruit and plush yet structured mouthfeel, are just a few more But what about the reds? Pinot Noir is the country’s most widely plant- options that are waiting for you. And, as always, feel free to check out all ed red variety, accounting for approximately 14% of all vineyard acreage our reviews, from New Zealand and beyond, at buyingguide.winemag.com. in 2011. Cheers! —Lauren Buzzeo

NEW ZEALAND Dog Point 2008 Section 94 Sauvi- notes, and a suggestion of briny minerality on the long 90 gnon Blanc (Marlborough). From a chal- finish. Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. lenging , this wine matches the intensity of abv: 13% Price: $26 SAUVIGNON BLANC barrel-fermentation and aging with potent grapefruit Framingham 2011 Sauvignon Blanc Dog Point 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- notes. The mouthfeel is creamy and lush, while the fla- (Marlborough). Framingham is one of New borough). Complex on the nose and richly vors of spice and citrus linger easily on the finish. 89 93 Zealand’s Riesling pioneers, but this shows the is textured in the mouth, this wine delivers it all. Hints Fully mature; drink up. Vintus LLC. —J.C. 14% $35 serious about Sauvignon Blanc as well. There’s a smoky, of struck flint and wild onion accent grapefruit aromas, abv: Price: struck-flint character on the nose, then layers of citrusy while the flavors range easily from pink grapefruit and Greywacke 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- fruit on the palate. It’s medium bodied, with a long, red currant to delicate herb shadings. It’s full with- borough). For full review see page 7. grapefruity finish. Evaton, Inc. —J.C. out being too full, with a potent yet refreshing finish 90 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $20 that seemingly lingers forever. Vintus LLC. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Jawbone 2010 Reserve Selection Sauvi- Lil Rippa 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- abv: 13.5% Price: $22 90 gnon Blanc (Marlborough). Impressive for 88 borough). This medium-bodied wine is bright its bold tropical fruit flavors and subtle texture, this is and refreshing, filled with tart citrus flavors. Hints of Saint Clair 2011 Pioneer Block 3 43 De- a nicely proportioned Sauvignon Blanc that manages fresh-cut grass, passion fruit and pineapple keep it in- grees Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). 92 to combine richness with enough refreshing citrus to teresting. Drink now. Nice Legs LLC. —J.C. This bottling is a bit green and herbal while remaining achieve balance. Drink now. Jawbone Winery and Vine- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 plump and ripe in the mouth. The aromas are intense yards. —J.C. and vibrant, redolent of gooseberries and crushed to- abv: 13% Price: $23 Saint Clair 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- mato leaves, while the flavors are a beguiling mix of ripe borough). Saint Clair produces some 86,000 tropical fruit, with an herbal edge that lingers on the fin- 88 Saint Clair 2011 Pioneer Block 1 Founda- cases of this solid Sauvignon Blanc. If it’s not quite as ish. Winesellers Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. tion Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). In- rich, concentrated or flamboyant as its Pioneer Block abv: 13.5% Price: $26 90 tensely passion fruity from start to finish, with accents bottlings, it still delivers authentic Marlborough Sau- of fresh herbs just adding a bit of complexity. This is a vignon character. Pineapple and tomato leaf notes are Saint Clair 2011 Wairau Reserve Sauvi- medium-bodied, creamy-textured Sauvignon Blanc that well balanced, while the wine is medium bodied and gnon Blanc (Marlborough). For full review 92 displays an admirable blend of ripe tropical fruit and slightly creamy in the mouth. Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. see page 5. Editors’ Choice. just a hint of green. Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $29 abv: 13% Price: $26 Giesen 2010 The Brothers Sauvignon Cloudy Bay 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- Saint Clair 2011 Pioneer Block 18 Snap Blanc (Marlborough). Relatively light borough). This Marlborough classic remains 87 90 Block Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). bodied, this Sauvignon Blanc has pungent aromas of on form, artfully blending pineapple and crushed toma- 90 From a block in the lower part of the Wairau Valley, this crushed tomato leaf and nettles. It’s a green style from to leaf notes. If it’s a bit leaner than some examples from is a pungently herbal expression of Sauvignon Blanc. the region, it’s also more elegant and refined; less ex- Yet there’s plenty of body and textural richness to off- plosive and flamboyant, but tighter and more focused. set and even complement the green tomato and tobacco Moët Hennessy USA. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Continued on Page 11

2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new- release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Goldeneye 2009 Ten Degrees Pinot Noir Editor Michael Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman 94 (Anderson Valley). This low production (365 in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, cases) Pinot Noir is a selection from the winery’s vari- Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor Riglos 2009 Gran Corte Las Divas Vine- ous . It’s an enormous wine, intricately layered Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa 96 yard (Tupungato). This wine takes you on with blackberry, cherry, cola, mushroom, pine needle, Rosa. a trip to an outer wine world where deep, cushioned bacon and toasty oak. It’s also very acidic, and the tan- If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s berry aromas come with exotic perfumes, bath oils and nins close in fast, giving the wine an astringency that initials appear following the note. When no initials appear crushed flower petals. It’s ultrasaturated and jammy, but lasts through the finish. This needs time; hold until following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect not clunky or heavy. This tastes like a storm of black 2016, at the very least. Cellar Selection. —S.H. the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits berry, espresso and Swiss chocolate, while black spices abv: 14.5% Price: $110 Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by and length bring up the rear. A blend of 50% , Lauren Buzzeo. 40% and 10% Cab Franc; drink Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by now–2017. Paul Hobbs Wines. Editors’ Choice. the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content —M.S. cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. abv: 14.9% Price: $50 Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. Goldeneye 2009 Gowan Creek Vineyard ABOUT THE SCORES Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Anderson Val- Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. 94 Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying ley). The richness and quality of this Pinot Noir are tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. instantly striking. It’s like a medieval tapestry, intricately Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. woven and velvety, with interlocking flavors of berry, Superb 94–97: A great achievement. cherry, cola, mushroom, buttered toast and spice. As Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. powerful as it is, it retains a subtlety that’s captivating Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; Laird 2009 Flat Rock Ranch Cabernet and elusive. Still, the acids and tannins are strong and often good value. Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is dry and unresolved. Cellar this for at least six years. Cellar Se- Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- 95 critical circumstances. brisk in acidity, with firm tannins and great structural lection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $80 Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 integrity. At the same time, it’s vast in blackberry and points) are not reviewed. cherry-jam flavors, while the oak overlay is strong but SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS perfectly matched with the wine’s volume. Very fine, Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent complex and elegant, this is a Cabernet to cellar for quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any eight years; it could be one for the long haul. Cellar price with unique qualities that merit special attention. Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible Selection. —S.H. and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled to abv: 14.8% Price: $80 reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less. Merryvale 2009 Profile (Napa Valley). SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW This falls midway between the spectacular ’08 Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing 94 location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag. and the elegant ’07. Based on Cabernet Sauvignon, its com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting were grown in St. Helena. The wine shows softly & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@ lush tannins and deep, complex flavors of red fruit, berry, wineenthusiast.net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted Goldeneye 2009 Confluence Vineyard licorice, cocoa and mineral that easily stand up to 100% for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted 94 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Anderson Val- new French oak. Don’t open it until at least 2018, and will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission ley). An elaborate wine—it’s broodingly closed and it should develop for many years afterward. Cellar Se- forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site. dry, yet it offers tantalizing glimpses of what it could lection. —S.H. LABELS become. As acidic and tannic as it is, it dazzles with abv: 14.9% Price: $165 Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given complexity, showing notes of blackberries and cher- the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and ries, then licorice and cola, then smoked meats, sautéed printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label ­purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax mushrooms and spices. A great success, it should begin 866.896.8786; or email [email protected]. to mellow by 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at abv: 14.5% Price: $80 buyingguide.winemag.com

WineMag.com | 3 La Follette 2010 Sangiacomo Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Classy and Tayson Pierce 2008 Cuvée Rothschild 93 delicious, this shows all you could ask for in the way of Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Oak, 94 Bodega Norton 2009 Privada (Mendoza). flavors of ripe tropical fruit and rich oak, with a buttery, fruit, tannin, acidity and minerality are the parts of Solid and brimming with more potential than creamy texture. With bright acidity and a firm min- this flashy Cabernet, but they haven’t come together 93 it’s displaying, this Bordeaux-style blend of Malbec, erality at its center, it’s also structurally balanced and yet. This clearly needs time. There’s a brilliant heart of and Cabernet Sauvignon starts with aromas of elegant. —S.H. blackberry, black currant, anise and spice flavors, and it graham cracker, lush berry and pastry. It feels perfectly abv: 14.2% Price: $38 should begin to develop secondary or tertiary character- framed by acidity and tannins, with spicy, complex istics after 2016 or so. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $75 blackberry and cassis flavors. Toasty and a mile long on the finish, drink this from 2014–2020. T.G.I.C. Import- ers. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $23

La Rochelle 2009 Dutton Ranch Camp- Tendril 2009 Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- 93 bell Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River 94 ley). Deep, firm and concentrated, this gor- Valley). This is a delicious Pinot Noir, packed with geous wine has the muscularity of Cabernet, but the cherries and raspberries, with a deft touch of oak. Shows plush, velvet elegance of Pinot Noir. Youthful and rich, a light, delicate structure, like satin, with the richness it has deep fruit flavors of blackberry and black cherry, brightened by tart acidity. Defines the elegant, drink- with barrel notes of coffee, chocolate and anise. Full, me-now Pinot style, but it should develop well over the smooth and supple, it is certainly among the best of the Finca Flichman 2009 Paisaje de Barran- next six years. —S.H. Oregon 2009s. Cellar Selection. —P.G. 93 cas (Mendoza). This blend of , Malbec abv: 14.2% Price: $48 abv: 14.3% Price: $48 and Cabernet Sauvignon is sultry and sexy—like a club dancer. Flashy, brash, deep in color and big in flavor, this has flavors of wild berry, chocolate and cola, with a toasted note. An incredibly ripe wine. Evaton, Inc. Edi- tors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

Marimar Estate 2009 Bonita’s Hill Don 93 Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This shows the tense acidity and dry minerality that make young Marimar Estate Chardon- Terlato 2008 Episode (Napa Valley). A Goldeneye 2009 The Narrows Vineyard nays so brisk and fresh. It’s as elegant as Chardonnay gets, 94 sumptuous Bordeaux-style blend, this is based Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Anderson Val- with a racy mouthfeel and rich, subtle tropical fruit and on Cabernet Sauvignon, showing plenty of class and 93 ley). Aloof and resistant, this Pinot is almost rustic. The pear flavors. New French oak (100%) shows up in the elegance. It’s strong in tannins and has deep flavors vineyard is at the coolest “deep end” of Anderson Valley, form of buttered toast and wood tannins, but the wine of blackberry, cassis and dark chocolate, with a firm and the chilly vintage has accentuated the acids and tan- is so big and powerful, it easily handles all that barrel minerality and cut of acidity that will help protect it nins. There’s a complex core of flavor, however, suggest- weight. Drink now–2015. —S.H. through the aging process. Best after 2016. Cellar Se- ing cherries, pomegranates, sautéed wild mushrooms abv: 14.7% Price: $39 lection. —S.H. and cured meats. All indications are of ageability; give it abv: 14.4% Price: $175 6−8 years in a proper cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 Sandhi 2010 Sanford & Benedict Pinot 93 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Sharp and keen in acid- Domaine Serene 2010 Evanstad Reserve ity, with racy flavors of cherry jam and spice, this Pinot Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). 92 Give this Bur- Merryvale 2009 (Napa Noir is too young for maximum enjoyment. It has a very gundian-style Chardonnay some extra breathing time Valley). Cabernet Franc on its own is tough to pure mouthfeel, light and delicate, with modest alcohol. and it rewards you with tight, fine-spun and complex 92 get right, which might be why Merryvale’s winemaker But there’s nothing light about the richness, which is flavors of lemon meringue, orange peel and brioche, blended in some Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec to considerable and complex, witha mineral note. Pinots with a streak of creamy vanilla. It’s the sort of wine that fatten it up. The result remains quite dry, complex and from this vineyard age for a long time; give it until 2016. invites reflection and rewards patience. Editors’ Cellar Selection. elegant, with a fine cut of acidity brightening the flavors —S.H. Choice. —P.G. of cherry, herb and new oak. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $55 abv: 13.4% Price: $45 abv: 14.9% Price: $90

Gauchezco 2009 Oro Malbec (Mendoza). 92 The palate boasts full tannins and good acidity, Saint Clair 2011 Wairau Reserve Sauvi- with flavors of pastry, chocolate, blackberry, plum and 92 gnon Blanc (Marlborough). Saint Clair’s prune that are marked with an undercurrent of spice. flagship Sauvignon, the 2011 Wairau Reserve features Toasty and long, the finish has a strong licorice accent. layers of tropical fruit aromas and a slightly sweaty pun- Drink now. Mountain West Wines. —M.S. gency—just enough to lift and accentuate the fruit. abv: 14.4% Price: $45 Flavors are a lively mix of ripe tropical and stone fruit, Bisol 2002 Millesimato Eliseo Bisol with nettles and other green herbaceous notes. The 92 Cuvée del Fondatore Talento Metodo wine is medium to full bodied and richly textured on Classico (). Made using the metodo clas- the palate while remaining zesty and refreshing. Wine- sico, this is dedicated to winery founder Eliseo Bisol. sellers Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. The wine is rich and sophisticated, delivering creamy abv: 13% Price: $29 perlage and pretty aromas of apricot and honey. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

Hanzell 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Val- 92 ley). Hanzell Pinots age for a long time and are not particularly appealing in youth. This is dry and rustic, with flavors of cola, baked cherry pie and spice Smith-Madrone 2009 Chardonnay (Spring set into hefty tannins. It’s made in a contrarian style to 92 Mountain). Concentrated, intense orange, today’s tastes. This is one to stash in the cellar. Drink apricot and mineral flavors characterize this Chardon- Bratcher 2009 La Encantada Vineyard 2015−2019, or even longer, if you like really old Pinots. nay, as does a brisk cut of acidity. It handles the 100% Cellar Selection. Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). A lovely Pinot —S.H. new French oak, with notes of buttered toast and sweet 92 abv: 14.5% Price: $95 that’s dry and silky. The rich, ripe raspberry and cherry wood sap almost dominating. But then the ripe fruit flavors are enriched with oak, and girded by its firm comes swirling back, providing dynamic tension. Drink minerality. Easy to drink now, but it should age over the this flashy, young Chardonnay in the next few years with next six years. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. lobsters, scallops and mushroom risotto. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $35 abv: 14.2% Price: $35

WineMag.com | 5 Goldeneye 2009 Pinot Noir (Anderson Tayson Pierce 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Valley). This shows the classically dry structure Bodega Cuarto Dominio 2009 Malbec 91 (Napa Valley). Lots to recommend in this dry, of Goldeneye, with firm tannins and tart acidity, as well 92 (Mendoza). Jammy and raisiny on the nose, complex and delicious Cabernet. It’s jam-packed with 91 as a fine core of cherry, cola, red currant and oak flavors. but it also has fresh black-fruit and mocha notes that flavors of blackberries and cherries, while oak aging Not quite as intense as Goldeneye’s ageable vineyard prevent the nose from seeming soft. This feels con- lends a smoky jacket of charred wood. It has fine miner- bottlings, but not too far off. Drink now. —S.H. centrated and jammy, with maple, mocha, blackberry ality, like a taste of granite that undergirds the richness. abv: 14.5% Price: $55 and oak-influenced flavors. The rich, oak-driven finish The tannins are considerable, but finely ground. Drink shows even more notes of mocha, coffee and chocolate. now, after decanting the wine for a few hours; it should Candy in a glass, but with structure. Terlato Wines develop throughout the next 8−10 years. —S.H. International. —M.S. abv: 14.6% Price: $65 abv: 15% Price: $50

Hand Made by Marketta 2009 Sauvignon 91 Blanc (Napa Valley). Former Chateau Po- telle winemaker and co-owner Marketta Fourmeaux is Thistle 2009 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). back with her own brand. This Sauvignon Blanc, held 92 Unfined and unfiltered, Thistle’s organically back an extra year for bottle development, is bone dry grown Pinot Noir is already showing a tawny rim. Soft and tartly clean in acidity, with subtle flavors of citrus and generous, with berry and cherry flavors, it has a fruits, lemongrass and white pepper. With a touch of tangy kick and a persistent spice note. The complexity oak, it’s an elegant, streamlined wine to drink now. Edi- and accessibility are especially appealing. Drink soon. Clif Family 2009 Gary’s Improv 91 (Napa Valley). A powerful Zinfandel, this is tors’ Choice. —S.H. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $24 abv: 13.9% Price: $30 dry and balanced. It’s classic Napa Valley, with ripe fruit and superb tannin structure. It floods the mouth with flavors of blackberry, black currant, cedar and licorice, with touches of spices ranging from pepper to cloves and cinnamon. Terrific with lamb shanks over creamy, baked polenta. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

Long Meadow Ranch 2011 Sauvignon Vie di Romans 2009 Dessimis Pinot Gri- 91 Blanc (Rutherford). One of the first 2011 92 gio (Friuli Isonzo). A masterpiece—this is a Sauvignon Blancs to be released, this is fresh, fruity true achievement. It is aged on its lees for seven months and zesty in acidity. Like a walk through a spring rain, to achieve a rich, sophisticated mouthfeel, with long it awakens the senses, with savory citrus, lemongrass, flavors of toasted bread, apricot and honey. The wine vanilla and mineral flavors that finish dry and spicy. Edi- shows a slightly copperish or ramato color, with a dense tors’ Choice. —S.H. creaminess on the finish. Vias Imports. —M.L. Envy 2009 Estate Petite Sirah (Calistoga). abv: 12.9% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $42 91 Darkly colored and coarsely tannic, this is a full- bodied, bone-dry and rustic wine. In its youth it offers a deep core of blackberry fruit. Lots of people will hap- pily drink it now, but it’s really a wine that wants time in the cellar. Best after 2017, and it should evolve in the bottle for years afterward. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $45

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 Gary Farrell 2009 Russian River Selec- 90 tion Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Rich, ripe and classy, this shows real pedigree in its Sciandri Family 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- structure, with brisk acids, firm tannins and a hint of gnon (Coombsville). With tannins still grip- Bodegas Caro 2010 Amancaya Gran 91 minerals providing the architecture for the cherry and ping the ripe blackberry, black currant and mocha flavors, Reserva Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon 90 pomegranate flavors. It finishes totally dry and is ready this Cabernet still feels young. It’s certainly drinkable, (Mendoza). The bouquet is loaded with sweet- to drink now. —S.H. especially with decanting, but the fascination is where it smelling aromas of dark plum and blackberry. It feels abv: 14.1% Price: $42 could go beyond 2014. —S.H. intense, packed and pure in the mouth, with potent abv: 14.4% Price: $54 flavors of blackberry, baked plum and cassis. The finish feels mild and smooth, with a long, jammy, steady fade. A blend of 65% Malbec and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon. Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

Greywacke 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- Trimbach 2009 Riesling (Alsace). This borough). Former Cloudy Bay winemaker is a finely balanced wine, showing ripe fruit 90 91 Kevin Judd’s new label displays a vibrant pungency to its along with tangy citrus and pineapple flavors. It has leafy aromas, then opens up on the palate to add goose- weight and richness, with a full, concentrated character. berry and grapefruit notes. It’s refreshingly medium Although this is ready to drink now, it is also worth bodied, with a slightly creamy texture and a long finish aging for another year to bring out even more fruit. Es- filled with pink grapefruit. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. prit du Vin. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $25 Colomé 2010 Estate Malbec (Calchaqui 90 Valley). This opens with attractive balsam wood and cedar aromas as well as graphite, licorice and earthy blackberry. It feels plump, lush and deep, with flavors of blackberry, black plum, balsamic and spice. Not overtly oaky, this is a fruity, balanced effort. Hess Collection. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

La Rochelle 2010 Four Sisters Vineyard 90 Pinot Meunier (Sonoma Coast). With a light, silky texture and plenty of acidity, this Pinot Noir- Bisol 2010 Cartizze Dry (Valdobbiadene like wine will appeal to connoisseurs who can under- 90 Superiore di Cartizze). Delicately soft in stand its complexity. The flavors are of sour cherry terms of its sweetness and firm in terms of the inten- candy, mushroom and mineral. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $38 sity of its effervescence, this lavishes on aromas of stone fruit, crushed flint and white pepper. Vias Imports. Dutcher Crossing 2010 Bernier-Sibary —M.L. Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). abv: 11.5% Price: $50 90 The winery has an excellent track record over the years with this single-vineyard bottling. It boasts flavors of berry jam, milk chocolate, anise and peppery spice, wrapped into rich, soft tannins. Delicious with beef stew, barbecue, or just a classic burger. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $41

WineMag.com | 7 Markham 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 90 (Napa Valley). A lovely Cabernet—this is made in a lighter style, but you don’t need a heavy, big, Recuerdo 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). This rich Cab all of the time. With a silky mouthfeel and a 90 is concentrated and pure, with focused boysen- Poetic Cellars 2008 Pinot Noir (Santa pleasant texture of tannins to the cherry-berry fruit, it’s berry, subtle oak and graham cracker aromas. It feels 89 Cruz Mountains). This defines the style of elegant and easy to drink now. —S.H. serious and saturated, with a tight set of berry and delicate body, dryness and searing acidity, yielding a abv: 14.2% Price: $37 vanilla flavors. Narrow, linear and precise on the finish; Pinot Noir to drink with more delicate foods, such as drink now–2014. Blackbird Vineyards. —M.S. seared Ahi tuna. The flavors of sour cherry candy and abv: 14.5% Price: $22 tart cranberry finish spicy and clean. Drink soon. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $32

Mezzacorona 2010 Riserva Pinot Grigio Saintsbury 2009 Pinot Noir (Carneros). 90 (Trentino). With bold aromas of exotic fruit, 90 Made in a light style, this is a lovely wine for almond and vanilla, this is a smooth and deliciously drinking now. It’s fresh and silky, with tart flavors of sour creamy wine that delivers a subtle touch of rich oak cherry candy, cranberry and watermelon. —S.H. Rainstorm 2009 Pinot Noir (Oregon). spice on the finish. The crisp acidity keeps the palate abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Complex and substantial, this excellent Pinot refreshed. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. —M.L. 89 Noir from the Mariani Family’s new Oregon label has abv: 13% Price: $16 pretty berry fruit at the core, wrapped in flavors of cola, chocolate and nougat. The length is impressive. Edi- tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

Midsummer Cellars 2011 Rosé Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2009 (Yolo County). This wine is deliciously dry 90 The Furst Grand Cru Schlossberg Ries- and refreshing, with a pretty salmon hue. Made from 89 ling (Alsace). Grenache, it smells of watermelon and strawberry and A full-bodied wine, this is packed with is perfectly balanced. Textured and easy to drink, this flavors of white fruit and citrus. The texture is soft, hint- ing at some sweetness. It feels weighty, packed with a is an extremely pleasant wine for summer and beyond. Alamos 2009 Selección Malbec (Mendo- fine concentration of fruit and toast. Give this rich wine —V.B. za). Full berry aromas are accented by notes of at least three years. Eagle Eye Imports. —R.V. 88 abv: 13.4% Price: $19 cumin, cola and grilled meat. This feels full-bodied but abv: 12.5% Price: $28 not overly heavy, with a mellow berry flavor and dark notes of chocolate and meat. The finish is smooth and oaky, with a touch of graphite. E & J Gallo. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012

Bonterra 2010 Made With Organic Macaron NV . Simple, bright and 88 Grapes Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County- 87 refreshing, this offers aromas of white flower, Mendocino County). With organically grown grapes stone fruit, citrus and crushed mineral. Flavors of sweet from both Lake County (58%) and Mendocino (42%), Bodega Belgrano 2011 It’s a Headsnap- fruit and peach are followed by creamy foam and lemon- this showcases the best of both regions. It has a great 87 per Malbec (Mendoza). This is smoky and a lime acidity. Underdog Wine & Spirits. —M.L. mix of lemon, grapefruit, honeydew and kiwi fresh- touch fiery and woody on the nose. Fresh on the pal- abv: 11% Price: $15 ness that remains balanced on the finish. It’s a quaffable ate, with plenty of body and pulp, it bears full flavors summer wine. —V.B. of berries and a fair amount of wood-driven spices. The abv: 13% Price: $14 finish tastes oaky and slightly lactic. Underdog Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

Region 1 2010 Reserve Malbec (Men- Borgoluce NV Brut (Prosecco di Val- 87 doza). This is rubbery and dark smelling, with Stateside Wines 2009 Winemaker’s Re- 87 dobbiadene Superiore). Light in color and black fruit and cheesy-oak aromas. It feels medium in 88 serve Blend (Sonoma County). bright in floral intensity, this delivers flavors of citrus, weight, with blackberry and plum flavors softened by A pretty, polished wine that’s easy to like for its low stone fruit and apple, with a subtle endnote of chopped creamy oak. Sweet, solid and properly balanced. Pampa alcohol and silky texture. Made from an unusual blend mint or basil. The Sorting Table. —M.L. Beverages LLC. —M.S. of Merlot, , Dolcetto and Cabernet Franc, abv: 11.5% Price: $22 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 it’s dry and elegant, with pleasant berry-cherry and spice flavors.Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $18

La Marca NV Prosecco. Widely available, Kenwood 2011 Zacchera Moscato (Cal- 87 this easy Prosecco offers fresh aromas of citrus, 85 ifornia). You have to classify this Moscato as Tenuta Luisa 2010 Pinot Grigio (Isonzo stone fruit and honey. It’s elegantly packaged with a a because it’s so sweet. It shows sugared 88 del Friuli). This is plump, with an intense bou- light blue label that would look gorgeous at a lunchtime orange, lemon and vanilla flavors that are brightened quet offering loads of yellow rose, apricot and fresh table set by the pool. E & J Gallo. Editors’ Choice. and cleansed with brisk acidity. —S.H. grapefruit. The mouthfeel is silky, soft and round. Vias —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $14 Imports. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $17 abv: 13.5% Price: $20

WineMag.com | 9 BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Argento 2010 Cabernet 88 Sauvignon (Mendoza). A huge improvement over recent years, this wine offers pure cassis, berry and leather aromas. The pal- ate is round, smooth and jammy, with fresh flavors of cherry, berry and cassis. Distinguished Vineyards & Wine Partners. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Callia 2011 Alta Malbec (Tulum Valley). 87 Subtle and fairly deep, with aromas of berry, pastry and cherry cough drop. It feels lively and good, Caves Velhas 2008 Cabeça de Toiro with blueberry and plum flavors in front of a textured, 91 Reserva (Tejo). Rich while elegant, this stylish medium-deep finish. Palm Bay International.Best wine has spice from wood to go with its blackberry flavor Buy. —M.S. and firm tannins. Chunky and laced with acidity, it has abv: 13.5% Price: $9 a dense finish that promises good aging. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

Mezzacorona 2011 Moscato (Vigneti delle Avalon 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali- 87 Dolomiti). Arguably one of the best value 88 fornia). This has to be one of the best value wines from Italy this year, this has beautifully intense Cabernets on the market. It’s rich and ripe in blackberry aromas of jasmine, honey and exotic fruit. It’s simple Rainstorm 2011 Pinot Gris (Oregon). and currant flavors, with smooth tannins and a fine edge and well made, with a sweet softness and a fruity succu- 90 This is the first release from Rainstorm, part of of acidity to brighten the fruit. Best Buy. —S.H. lence on the finish. Prestige Wine Imports Corp.Best the expanding Mariani Family presence in the Pacific abv: 13.8% Price: $12 Buy. —M.L. Northwest. It’s bone dry, immaculately fresh, and lees- abv: 11.5% Price: $9 aged, with lovely depth and finesse. Flavors of melon and cucumber dominate, and the crisp acidity offers bracing minerality. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

Mezzacorona 2011 Pinot Grigio (Vigneti 87 delle Dolomiti). Clean and easy-drinking, this Zolo 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). The nose is packed with pretty aromas of white peach, tangerine 88 boasts concentrated plum and berry aromas. On and almond. It shows medium structure, with a subtle the palate, this feels full and complete, with blackberry, touch of spice on the finish. Prestige Wine Imports mild spice and a hint of salt. It’s crisp and focused on the Corp. Best Buy. —M.L. Wente 2010 Morning Fog Chardonnay finish. Vino Del Sol. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $9 (Livermore Valley-San Francisco Bay). 89 abv: 13.8% Price: $11 Crisp and refreshing, this is attractive with notes of fresh lemon, lime and pear from cooler-climate vineyards. It’s like a breath of fresh air, and it should pair beautifully with a wide range of meals. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 start to finish, capped off by lime-like acids. Dreyfus, BEST BUYS BEST BUYS Ashby & Co. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $NA

Saint Clair 2011 Vicar’s Choice Sauvignon 87 Blanc (Marlborough). Ripe and round in style, this large-production (almost 100,000 cases) Sauvi- gnon Blanc may lack a bit of length, but otherwise offers a lush mouthful of stone and tropical fruit accented by modestly grassy notes. Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $18

Smythe & Renfield 2011 Sauvignon Blanc 87 (Marlborough). This is a soft, ripely fruited Sauvignon Blanc, embued with hints of passion fruit McManis 2011 Pinot Grigio (California). and lime. It’s plump and medium bodied, round on the Pantago 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). A mild, 86 Refreshing and simple, this is dryish and spicy, palate, then tart and lingering on the finish. Drink now. rustic hickory aroma is matched by scents of with orange, apricot and peach flavors all accented with Prestige Wine Group. —J.C. 87 abv: 12.5% Price: $18 berries. It feels entirely easygoing and healthy, with crisp acidity. It’s easy to drink as a cocktail sipper, with fresh berry and vanilla flavors. A simple wine, with the little snacks, like tempura or cheesy puff pastries. Best Starborough 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- right amount of oak character. Winery Exchange. Best Buy.—S.H. borough). This is only light to medium in body, Buy. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $10 87 but it has a tactile, peach-skin element that gives it extra abv: 14% Price: $12 interest on the palate and pleasant flinty notes alongside modest citrus fruit. Drink now. E & J Gallo. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 CORRECTIONS Konrad 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- In the July 2012 issue, we incorrectly identified the fol- 86 ough). Starts well, with pineapple and goose- lowing wines’s brand names, importers and prices. The berry aromas, but it doesn’t seem that intense or con- correct information is as follows: centrated on the palate. This is a medium-bodied, slight- ly creamy-textured wine that’s easy to drink. Southern Ormilles 2011 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Starz, Inc. —J.C. 87 This is a fat, rich wine, with fruits that are sweet abv: 13.5% Price: $17 and ripe. With its weight and caramel flavor, it’s a full- Oyster Bay 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- bodied effort suitable for food. American Northwest borough). Distributors, Inc. —R.V. 86 Pungent scents of crushed tomato abv: 13% Price: $12 or nettle leaves enliven this lightweight wine. It’s citrusy Salvatore Principe 2011 Malbec (Men- and pleasantly leafy on the palate, with a finish that turns doza). 87 The welcoming aromas of red berry and Château Gassier 2011 Sables d’Azur slightly chalky. Oyster Bay Wines. —J.C. cherry are slightly smoky and spicy. Showing good body, Rosé (Côtes de Provence). This is very abv: 13% Price: $15 this has light tannins, with flavors of toasty plum, berry, 87 fresh, with light acidity and a touch of caramel. Its round chocolate and spice. It’s round, mellow and easy on the Sileni 2011 Cellar Selection Sauvignon character is contrasted with tangerine crispness. Vinum finish. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S. Blanc (Marlborough). International. —R.V. 86 This Hawkes Bay pro- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: NA Price: $14 ducer has turned out a plump, medium-bodied Sauvi- gnon Blanc sourced from Marlborough. Notes of orange and lime sherbet enliven the nose, while tropical fruit comes through on the palate. Clean and refreshing on the finish. Indigo Wine Group. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

Overstone 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- 85 borough). Citrus and crushed stone notes start this wine off, followed by lemon sorbet on the palate. It’s lightweight, a real summertime refresher, with a short, clean finish. Prestige Wine Group. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

Zeal 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- Santa Julia 2011 + Malbec (Mendoza). 85 ough). A lightweight wine seemingly made for 87 A fruitball of a Malbec, with bright, friendly poolside sipping, with herbal-grassy tones accenting cit- aromas of berry, cola and cherry cough drop. It feels full, rus notes. It’s clean on the finish and as refreshing as a round and well balanced, with a black cherry flavor bear- cool breeze. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —J.C. ing a mild herbal underbelly. The finish is fruity without abv: 12.5% Price: $10 being heavy. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

WineMag.com | 11 CHARDONNAY bodied Chardonnay with a focus on fruit. Honeydew Jules Taylor 2011 Pinot Gris (Marlbor- and citrus flavors take the lead, then finish crisp and 88 ough). This is a full-bodied, soft and round Neudorf 2009 Moutere Chardonnay (Nel- clean. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —J.C. style of Pinot Gris that’s almost completely dry. Under- 93 son). A top-notch offering, this combines am- abv: 14% Price: $15 stated pear and melon aromas combine with hints of ple weight and richness with an impression of focus and fern fronds to create an enchanting bouquet, while the purity. It’s smoky and subtly toasty on the nose, seam- Hunter’s 2009 Chardonnay (Marlbor- flavors are more straightforward and fruity. Drink now. lessly marrying those notes with apple, peach and cit- 84 ough). This wine appeals for its plump, almost Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —J.C. rus flavors. Long, lingering and very fine on the finish. custardy texture, but the aromas and flavors of pine- abv: 13.5% Price: $17 Drink now–2017. The Vintner Group. —J.C. apple are simple and straightforward, turning crisp on abv: 13.5% Price: $45 the finish. The Australia- Connec- Mt. Difficulty 2011 Roaring Meg Pinot tion. —J.C. 88 Gris (Central Otago). Loaded with fruit— Villa Maria 2009 Taylors Pass Vineyard abv: 14.5% Price: $15 apricot, pineapple and passion fruit—this is an attrac- 92 Chardonnay (Marlborough). This Villa Ma- tive, medium-bodied Pinot Gris with just a hint of ria Chardonnay starts off with toasted custardy richness Stratum 2010 Chardonnay (Marlbor- sweetness. Enjoy it over the next year. American Estates on the nose, hints of vanilla and relatively restrained 84 ough). A simple, medium-bodied Chardon- Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. fruit, then reveals its intensity on the palate, where nay that emphasizes the variety’s fruity characteristics. abv: 14% Price: $20 flavors of vanilla, pineapple, citrus and smoke swirl Apple, pineapple and citrus pick up a hint of peppery together. Despite the richness, it’s tightly structured, or clove-like spice on the finish. Southern Starz, Inc. Seifried 2010 Old Coach Road Pinot Gris with a long, textured yet bright finish. Drink now–2018. —J.C. 88 (Nelson). This offers quality that’s almost the Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 equal of Seifried’s primary label Pinot Gris for a couple abv: 14% Price: $44 dollars less. Melon rind, pineapple and cinnamon notes Sileni 2010 Cellar Selection Chardon- are pervasive. This is plump and expansive on the pal- Esk Valley 2010 Chardonnay (Hawke’s 83 nay (Hawke’s Bay). This wine’s pineapple ate, yet remains focused through the soft, elegant finish. 90 Bay). This is a lush, creamy-textured wine, fruit carries a faintly lactic note along with it, although American Wine Distributors. —J.C. redolent of roasted cashews and grilled pineapple. It’s it doesn’t show much in the way of an enriched texture. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 toward the full-bodied side of the spectrum for New Drink now. Prestige Wine Group. —J.C. Zealand Chardonnay, but retains ample complexity in abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Lake Chalice 2010 Eyrie Vineyard Pi- its interplay of nuts and citrus, with a hint of peach on 86 not Gris (Marlborough). Dry and medium the long finish. Drink now. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. bodied, this features ample apple and citrus notes, Editors’ Choice. —J.C. PINOT GRIS accented by hints of chalk dust and spice. Drink it abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Huia 2010 Pinot Gris (Marlborough). A over the next six months. American Wine Distributors. 91 lovely example of dry Marlborough Pinot Gris, —J.C. Mission Estate 2010 Chardonnay with plenty of weight and a round, creamy texture that abv: 13.5% Price: $17 88 (Hawke’s Bay). It’s nice to see this historic sets it apart. Pear and melon notes on the nose and Maude 2010 Pinot Gris (Central Otago). winery finally being represented in the United States. palate blend with hints of honey, clove and plenty of This medium-bodied Pinot Gris is nearly dry in This offers scents of toasted grain, smoke, citrus and indefinable spice. It’s ready to drink now, but should 85 style, with crisp acids that give it a somewhat angular just a hint of butter before it hits the palate with ample hold for 2–3 years. TE Imports. Editors’ Choice. feel. Melon and citrus notes finish with a slightly bit- weight and a slightly creamy texture. A bit woody and —J.C. smoky, but nice in that style. Drink now. Station Im- abv: 14% Price: $20 ter hint of orange pith. Drink now. The Vintner Group. ports Inc. —J.C. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Forrest 2010 Tatty Bogler Pinot Gris abv: 14% Price: $23 (Central Otago). Since this wine weighs in at 90 Sileni 2011 Cellar Selection Pinot Gris Fernz 2009 Chardonnay (Marlborough). 14% abv and still retains more than 17 g/L of residual (Hawke’s Bay). The Hawke’s Bay region isn’t 87 A solid effort for the price, marrying hints of sugar, the fruit was clearly very ripe. That ripeness is 85 known for its Pinot Gris, but this is a solid example at a pencil-like oak with bright pineapple and lemon drop reflected in the flavors as well, which feature nectarine very reasonable price. It’s citrusy and very nearly dry, flavors. There’s ample weight and texture without going and honey accented by hints of white pepper. It’s full giving an overall impression that’s a bit lean. Probably over the top, and a moderately long finish. Drink up. bodied and lush, with a long finish that mingles the sen- best with seafood dishes. Drink now. Prestige Wine G.K. Skaggs, Inc.. —J.C. sations of sweet and spicy. Drink now. American Wine Group. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Distributors. —J.C. abv: 12% Price: $12 abv: 14% Price: $20 Man O’ War 2009 Valhalla Chardonnay 87 (Waiheke Island). This seems to be hurrying Greywacke 2010 Pinot Gris (Marlbor- OTHER WHITE WINES along its aging curve, showing a burnished gold color. 90 ough). A full-bodied, lushly textured wine with It’s smoky and intense, with citrusy fruit that’s more like aromas and flavors that hint at peach or nectarine, hon- Millton 2010 Te Arai Vineyard Chenin grapefruit than anything else, plus plenty of weight and ey and vanilla. This is just slightly off dry (8 g/L residual 90 Blanc (Gisborne). Millton’s 2010 Chenin bright acidity. Drink up. Gotham Wine Group. —J.C. sugar), but that sweetness is balanced with a bit of tart- Blanc starts off with a fruit bowl of aromas ranging from abv: 14% Price: $30 ness and a dash of white pepper on the finish. Drink apricot to melon. It’s a full-bodied, richly textured ex- now. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. pression of , yet one that retains a certain Omaka Springs 2009 Falveys Vineyard abv: 14% Price: $25 vibrancy to its ripe flavors of pineapple and stone fruit. 86 Chardonnay (Marlborough). This is full- Despite being dry, a honeyed note lingers on the long bodied, offering subtle cashew and melon shadings Seifried 2010 Pinot Gris (Nelson). This finish. Verity Wine Partners. —J.C. alongside bold pineapple fruit. The oak stands a little 89 full-bodied, off-dry wine represents a pretty abv: 12.5% Price: $30 apart on the palate, imparting a touch of dryness to the good value in the current market. The flavors hint at bright fruit. Drink now. T.G.I.C. Importers. —J.C. peach, melon and citrus but finish clean and refreshing Millton 2010 Riverpoint Vineyard Viog- abv: 13% Price: $14 despite evident sweetness. American Wine Distribu- 88 nier (Gisborne). A full-bodied, mouthfilling tors. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Viognier, with apricot and pineapple aromas that broad- Villa Maria 2010 Private Bin Unoaked abv: 12.5% Price: $17 en out on the palate into more general expressions of 85 Chardonnay (Hawke’s Bay). A medium-

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 stone fruit and citrus. It’s straightforward and easy to Margrain 2008 River’s Edge Pinot Noir effort, but it’s fine for casual drinking over the summer. drink, with a clean finish that shows a touch of warmth. 87 (Martinborough). A silky, easy-drinking Pi- Verity Wine Partners. —J.C. Verity Wine Partners. —J.C. not Noir, but one that retains Martinborough’s savory abv: 13.9% Price: $22 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 profile, featuring hints of dark earth and mushrooms alongside black cherries. Drink now. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. SYRAH PINOT NOIR abv: 13% Price: $27 Craggy Range 2009 Le Sol Syrah Croney Estates 2009 Two Ton Pinot Noir (Hawke’s Bay). Palliser Estate 2008 Pinot Noir (Martin- 93 Full bodied, creamy in tex- (Martinborough). Already mature, this shows 90 borough). This pretty Pinot is less concen- ture and long on the finish, the 2009 Le Sol is the com- hints of bricking at the rim, plus complex aromas of 87 trated than those in Palliser’s The Great... series, but plete package. Blackberry fruit is accented by cracked decaying leaf litter, herbal-briary touches and delicate the fruit speaks louder nonetheless. Bright cherry fruit pepper and vanilla, but closer examination reveals hints strawberry shadings. Finishes long and silky. Delicious; retains Martinborough’s savory, earthy edge while fin- of black olive and coffee as well. The tannins are exqui- drink now. Liquid Brands LLC. Editors’ Choice. ishing crisp, with a hint of tea leaf. Drink now. Nego- sitely silky on the finish, where the fruit comes to the —J.C. ciants USA, Inc. —J.C. fore. Drink now–2020. Kobrand. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 abv: 14.2% Price: $28 abv: 14.1% Price: $NA Palliser Estate 2009 The Great Marco Pi- Palliser Estate 2008 The Great Walter Sacred Hill 2009 Deerstalkers Syrah not Noir (Martinborough). A chunky, mus- 90 Pinot Noir (Martinborough). This is a sol- (Hawke’s Bay). Full bodied and richly tex- cular example of Pinot Noir, with dark fruit and lashings 86 93 id, well made Pinot Noir, just one that shows more oak tured, this starts off with jammy mixed-berry aromas of oak. Coffee, vanilla and bacon notes blend with black than fruit at this stage of its evolution. Vanilla and cof- framed by cedar, vanilla and a touch of pepper, but the cherries. It’s firmly tannic on the finish right now, so try fee flavors overshadow pleasant cherry and herb notes palate shows even more complexity and savory charac- it in 2013. Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C. in this medium-bodied, slightly chewy wine. Negociants ters, hinting at meat, olive and clove. Long and velvety abv: 14.5% Price: $40 USA, Inc. —J.C. on the finish, the 2009 Deerstalkers is a compelling ex- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Craggy Range 2009 Te Muna Road Vine- ample of Hawke’s Bay Syrah. —J.C. yard Pinot Noir (Martinborough). abv: 14% Price: $NA 89 Craggy Stoneburn 2009 Pinot Noir (Marlbor- Range’s Pinot Noir is typically an intense, concentrat- ough). At only $12 per bottle, this is a solid Trinity Hill 2009 Homage Syrah (Hawke’s ed wine, and the current release is no exception. Dark 86 value. The aromas are slightly dusty, like dried rose 92 Bay). Less weighty than some of the other top- cherry fruit is nicely framed by vanillin oak, the tannins petal, while the flavors suggest mixed berries and dry are creamy smooth and the acids provide tangy relief on rated Hawke’s Bay Syrahs, Homage relies on complexity earth, with a hint of black tea on the finish. Tannins rather than raw power. Its sour plum fruit is perfectly the finish. Drink now–2018. Kobrand. —J.C. are silky. Drink now. The Australia-New Zealand Wine abv: 14.5% Price: $39 balanced by black olive and roasted meat, hints of ba- Connection. —J.C. con and espresso, while the tannins are fine and silky, abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Hunter’s 2009 Jane Hunter Pinot Noir the acids bright. Drink now–2025. Via Pacifica Imports. —J.C. 89 (Marlborough). This is plump and round Stoneleigh 2009 Pinot Noir (Marlbor- abv: 14% Price: $125 without being heavy, a slightly chunky Pinot featuring 86 ough). Pretty ripe stuff, marked by hints of modest plum fruit. Savory accents of roasted meat and stewed berries and chocolate. It’s medium to full in Craggy Range 2009 Gimblett Gravels coffee add interest. At its suggested retail price of $15, it body, with soft tannins, yet the acids remain crisp, turn- Vineyard Syrah (Hawke’s Bay). Craggy’s represents excellent value. The Australia-New Zealand ing tart almost to the point of being citrusy on the finish. 91 Syrah that doesn’t make the cut for luxury Le Sol bot- Wine Connection. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Pernod Ricard. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 14% Price: $18 tling goes into this wine, and it’s almost as good. Hints of graham cracker, bacon and arugula accent blackberry Jawbone 2008 Reserve Selection Pinot Te Kairanga 2009 Estate Pinot Noir (Mar- fruit in this supple but not soft Syrah. The finish is suc- 89 Noir (Central Otago). This is nicely nuanced 86 tinborough). A nicely balanced, slightly herbal culent and berry filled, held in focus by silky tannins. and silky in style, boasting delicate scents of mushrooms version of Martinborough Pinot Noir, with pretty berry Drink now–2018. Kobrand. —J.C. and tea backed by flavors of cranberries, leather and and herb shadings and a bit of mushroomy savoriness. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA dried leaves. Long and elegant on the finish. Drink now. Turns tart on the finish. Foley Family Wines. —J.C. Jawbone Winery and Vineyards. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Squawking Magpie 2009 Stoned Crow abv: 14% Price: $30 91 Gimblett Gravels Syrah (Hawke’s Bay). Lil Rippa 2008 Pinot Noir (Central Ota- This is firmly structured and tannic now, but still of- Margrain 2008 Home Block Pinot Noir 85 go). This tart, medium-bodied Pinot Noir fea- fers compelling complexity and mouthwatering flavors. 88 (Martinborough). A pleasing, ready-to-drink tures sour cherry and cranberry fruit blended with hints Peppery, herbal notes; blueberry and boysenberry fruit; Pinot Noir, Margrain’s 2008 Home Block is a modest of minty herbs and fresh compost. Drink now. Nice espresso and black olives; cedar and vanilla—there’s step up in concentration and length from its River’s Legs LLC. —J.C. something for everyone to enjoy. Drink now–2020. Edge bottling, but displays similar notes of dark cher- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 —J.C. ries and berries and a mushroomy edge. Kysela Père abv: 14% Price: $NA et Fils. —J.C. Mana 2009 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). abv: 13.5% Price: $35 85 This lightweight Pinot Noir features high-toned red-fruit aromas and flavors. Strawberry and red cherry RED BLENDS Lake Chalice 2009 Pinot Noir (Marlbor- notes dominate, but there are hints of coffee and nail 87 ough). A dark, savory style of Pinot Noir, with polish as well. Drink now. South Pacific Wines. —J.C. Craggy Range 2009 Sophia (Hawke’s intense aromas and flavors of cedar, coffee and cola abv: 14% Price: $16 92 Bay). This vintage of Sophia is almost two- that turn a bit dry and astringent on the finish. It’s fairly thirds Merlot, with smaller amounts of Cabernet Sau- big in the mouth, yet not particularly rich or textured. Tablelands 2009 Single Vineyard Pinot vignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Hints of hick- Drink it over the next few years. American Wine Dis- 84 Noir (Martinborough). Pale in color, with ory smoke and mint mark the nose, while the palate is tributors. —J.C. modest aromas and flavors of tart strawberries and more about ripe black cherries and vanilla. It’s full bod- abv: 14% Price: $23 brown sugar. There’s not much texture or weight to this ied and round in the mouth, with supple tannins that

WineMag.com | 13 make it approachable now. Drink now–2023. Kobrand. cused, which sould give it at least 5–7 years of longevity. Salvatore Principe 2011 Chardonnay —J.C. RO Imports LLC. —J.C. 82 (Mendoza). This smells reminiscent of almost- abv: 14.2% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $25 burnt popcorn. It has medium body, with tropical fla- vors and a note of popcorn on the finish. Prestige Wine Sacred Hill 2009 Helmsman (Hawke’s Trinity Hill 2009 The Gimblett (Hawke’s Group. —M.S. 92 Bay). This is a full-bodied, firmly tannic blend 90 Bay). This blend of five Bordeaux varieties is a abv: 13.5% Price: $10 of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot solid value, offering intense and pure cassis fruit that’s that’s built for the cellar. It boasts copious amounts of subtly framed by coffee, chocolate and the faintest hint Funky Llama 2011 Unoaked Chardonnay vanilla and cedar, but there’s plenty of cassis fruit to sup- of dried herbs. The overall feel is sturdy, with firm tan- 81 (Mendoza). Hay and green apple aromas are port it, and that fruit comes through strongly on the in- nins. Drink 2015–2025. Via Pacifica Imports. —J.C. about all that you can extract from the nose. It feels top tense, long finish. Drink 2015–2025. Cellar Selection. abv: 14% Price: $25 heavy and awkward, with mealy citrus and maderized —J.C. apple flavors. The finish is full, fruity and baked. Drink abv: 14% Price: $NA Esk Valley 2009 Gimblett Gravels Merlot- now. Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S. 87 Cabernet Sauvignon-Malbec (Hawke’s abv: 13% Price: $8 Alluviale 2009 Gimblett Road Red Wine Bay). This is a solid example of a Hawke’s Bay blended 91 (Hawke’s Bay). This wine’s elevated percent- red, combining leafy cassis fruit with hints of cherry and age of Merlot (63%) no doubt accounts for its forward, tobacco. It’s medium bodied and moderately tannic, TORRONTÉS supple character. Cassis and black cherry notes pick up turning tart and crisp on the finish. Drink now–2015. Finca El Origen 2011 Reserva Torrontés hints of tobacco, all framed by soft tones of vanilla and Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —J.C. (Salta). This opens with a breeze of air fresh- cedar. Drink now–2018. Vintage Wine Marketing . Edi- abv: 14% Price: $20 88 ener, tropical oils, green fruits and apricots. Fresh and tors’ Choice. —J.C. crisp in feel, it has mild green-fruit flavors that are led abv: 14% Price: $25 ARGENTINA by notes of lime and lychee. The finish is creamy, tropi- cal and slightly bitter. Carolina Wine Brands USA. Best Mills Reef 2009 Elspeth Cabernet Sauvi- Buy. —M.S. gnon-Merlot (Hawke’s Bay). On the herbal, 91 CHARDONNAY abv: 14% Price: $12 tobacco-laden end of the Cabernet spectrum, but those elements are backed by ample cassis fruit and a lush Bodega Norton 2011 Cosecha Tardia Finca las Nubes 2011 Torrontés (Cafay- mouthfeel. It’s long and velvety on the finish, making a 87 Natural Sweet White Chardonnay (Men- ate). Aromas of sweet grass, vanilla cookie, lime winning final impression. Drink now–2020. San Fran- doza). This is pleasant and satisfying for what can best 88 and lychee are welcoming on the nose. This is a melo- cisco Wine Exchange. —J.C. be described as a value sweet white. It smells tropical, ny, round style of Torrontés, featuring apple and lychee abv: 14% Price: $NA like lychee and bath soap. The palate feels good and even-keeled, with lemon, mango, exotic spice and floral notes. Flavorful and friendly, with a moderate finish. Vine Connections. —M.S. Villa Maria 2009 Gimblett Gravels Re- flavors. Shows a little heat on the finish. T.G.I.C. Im- abv: 13.5% Price: $18 91 serve Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot porters. Best Buy. —M.S. (Hawke’s Bay). Over the past several , Vil- abv: 11% Price: $9 Terrazas de Los Andes 2011 Reserva Tor- la’s tannin management in its Reserve Cab-Merlot has rontés (Salta). A consistent Torrontés, with evolved to make the wines more approachable young. Finca Pasión NV Mi Vida Chardonnay 88 tropical and exotic aromas of green melon, lychee and This blend of 75% Cabernet and 25% Merlot is fleshy 86 (Mendoza). Light aromas of white fruits and bath oil. It feels round despite sporting nice acids, while and supple without being soft, with leafy cassis fruit honeysuckle are welcoming. This feels clean and bal- flavors of green apple, lychee, melon and cardamom framed by hints of vanilla and charred oak. Drink now– anced, with flavors of tropical fruits, sweet citrus, pine- work well in front of a long, sweet, pithy finish. Moët 2023. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —J.C. apple and mango. It finishes sweet and almost sugary, Hennessy USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 but not quite. Private Reserve. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Babich 2009 The Patriarch Premium Red Alamos 2011 Torrontés (Salta). Golden in Wine (Hawke’s Bay). A soft, lush blend of Alta Vista 2011 Classic Chardonnay 90 color, this has Viognier-like aromas of acacia and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc and 85 (Mendoza). This is mellow up front, with mild 87 honeysuckle. It feels fleshy and round, with soft acidity. 25% Malbec, The Patriarch offers straightforward cas- aromas of melon and baby powder. It feels fresh and The flavors of green melon, kiwi and lychee are friendly sis and vanilla notes, with hints of coffee and tobacco for easygoing, with apple, citrus and vanilla flavors. Drink yet sweet, while the finish is mellow. Drink now. E & J complexity. It’s approachable now, but should be even well chilled, and soon. Kobrand. —M.S. Gallo. —M.S. better in a few years. Drink now–2020. Select Fine abv: NA Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Wine. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Bodega Norton 2011 Chardonnay (Men- 85 doza). Mild, clean and peachy on the nose, Alta Vista 2011 Premium Torrontés (Sal- ta). Sweet, tropical aromas lead the way, fol- Newton Forrest Estate 2009 Cornerstone with a pinch of sweet banana. It feels chunky but hon- 87 lowed by notes of melon and vanilla. It feels fresh, with (Hawke’s Bay). Faintly herbal or green bean est, with apple, sweet citrus and peach flavors. The 90 citrus and lychee flavors. The finish is tropical and green notes seem to fade a bit with airing, giving way to cas- finish is solid; a good wine for under $10. T.G.I.C. tasting, with nervy acidity. Kobrand. —M.S. sis fruit and oak-derived elements of vanilla and brown Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20 sugar. This is full bodied and richly textured, with a abv: 13% Price: $9 long, velvety finish. Drink now–2020. Pacific Prime Michel Torino 2011 Don David Reserve Bodega Norton 2011 Lo Tengo Torrontés Wines. —J.C. (Mendoza). Tropical and pure on the nose, abv: 14.2% Price: $40 84 Chardonnay (Calchaqui Valley). The 87 apple and peach aromas are not forced, oaky or heavy. It this has aromas of lychee, lime, talcum powder and can- dle wax. It feels juicy and healthy, with flavors of apple, Te Awa 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon-Mer- feels closed up, without much weight, body or texture, lime and lychee. The finish is steady and pure. T.G.I.C. lot (Hawke’s Bay). Reasonably priced for a and tastes narrow and citrusy, like apple juice. The fin- 90 Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. Hawke’s Bay blend of this quality, this medium- to full- ish is short and tangy. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. abv: 13% Price: $11 bodied wine offers scents of cassis and dried herbs and —M.S. a crisp, mouthwatering finish. The fruit is bright and fo- abv: 13.9% Price: $17

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 Domingo Molina 2011 Hermanos Tor- anced, with toasty flavors of blackberry, cassis, herb and This feels feels grippy and firm, with solid tannins and 87 rontés (Cafayate). The chiseled lemon-lime espresso. It’s persistent on the finish; drink now–2015. spicy, lightly herbal flavors of cassis and black plum. Dry aromas are minerally and crisp, with a touch of lychee. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. and spicy on the finish, with a coffee-like bitterness. This feels light on its feet but shows depth, with flavors abv: 15% Price: $20 T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. of citrus, green herbs and lychee. It’s smooth and fresh abv: 14% Price: $17 on the finish, with a green herb note. Vine Connections. Viña Alicia 2009 Paso de Piedra Caber- —M.S. 91 net Sauvignon (Luján de Cuyo). Floral aro- Casarena 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14% Price: $15 mas of violets and red roses mingle with smoky notes of 87 (Mendoza). This delivers a solid mix of red roasted berry, plum and leather. It’s staunch and firm in fruits, herbs and spices on the nose. The palate feels Michel Torino 2011 Don David Reserve the mouth, with roasted, spicy flavors of lightly roasted a little jagged, but it’s forward and contains lively fla- 87 Torrontés (Calchaqui Valley). Citrus, blackberry and plum. This finishes mossy, with a leath- vors of cherry, plum, nutmeg and brown sugar. It’s fruity lychee and mineral are the key aromas. It feels alive, ery accent. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. on the finish, with a dash of cocoa. Southern Starz, Inc. with nice acidity and flavors of nectarine, peach and ly- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 —M.S. chee. This is sweet, oily, pithy and true to the variety abv: 14.3% Price: $17 from start to finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Tempus Alba 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon —M.S. 90 (Mendoza). This is smooth smelling, like a Andeluna 2009 Altitud Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 13.9% Price: $17 blend of raspberry, plum and spice. The palate feels 86 gnon (Tupungato). Red licorice, rhubarb and ripped and layered, not lazy or heavy, with red berry, green herb aromas are balanced by toast, spice and ber- O. Fournier 2011 Urban Uco Torrontés cassis, plum and caramel flavors. It’s long, sweet and ry notes. The palate feels hard and dense, with herbal 87 (Cafayate). This is a very good summer quaf- chocolaty on the finish, with roasted, savory notes. Mis- berry and olive flavors. Chocolate and additional herbal fer, with melon and tropical fruit aromas. The palate is tica Wines LLC. Best Buy. —M.S. flavors carry the finish. San Francisco Wine Exchange. wide, with green melon, peach, Golden Delicious ap- abv: 14% Price: $15 —M.S. ple and lychee flavors. Long on the finish. Fine Estates abv: 15% Price: $25 From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. Bodega Norton 2009 Reserva Cabernet abv: 13.5% Price: $9 89 Sauvignon (Mendoza). This is full, jammy Coiron 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Men- and granular on the bouquet, with a ripped mouthfeel 86 doza). Full berry and hickory aromas come Bodega Norton 2011 Torrontés (Mendo- that offers rich, mildly minty flavors of blackberry, prune with a hint of burnt rubber. The palate is regular, if a bit 86 za). Mineral and lime aromas are key on the and cassis. The finish is tannic and full, with touches of gritty, with generic berry flavors and a spot of bitterness. bouquet. It feels wide, with fleshy but not flabby fla- herb, spice and oak. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. It finishes quick, tannic and solid, with a lot of fruit char- vors of peach, nectarine and apple. This is quiet, clean abv: 14.5% Price: $18 acter. Mistica Wines LLC. Best Buy. —M.S. and just juicy enough. T.G.I.C. Importers. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 —M.S. Finca El Origen 2009 Gran Reserva Cab- abv: 13% Price: $9 89 ernet Sauvignon (Uco Valley). With the Terrazas de Los Andes 2010 Altos del right mix of ripeness and spiciness, this is fruity, 86 Plata Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Salentein 2011 Killka Collection Torron- dense and earthy, with pepper and herb hints. The pal- This is a little foxy and metallic on the nose, with red 86 tés (Uco Valley). This is peachy and a bit oily ate is full and feels proper, offering flavors of baked ber- berry and plum aromas. It feels fresh and forward, with on the nose, but not harsh or pointed. It feels full and ry, chocolate, toast and coffee. Moderately complex, the a basic feel to the palate and flavors of raspberry, mocha fleshy, with sweet, ripe flavors of melon, citrus and -ly finish is long and healthy. Carolina Wine Brands USA. and chocolate. The finish shows some mild oak.Moët chee. Long and melony on the finish; drink now. Palm —M.S. Hennessy USA. —M.S. Bay International. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 14% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Argento 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Men- Gardel 2011 Colección Cabernet Sauvi- San Felipe 2010 Selección Torrontés 88 doza). For full review see page 10. Best Buy. 85 gnon (Mendoza). Sturdy on the nose, this has 84 (Mendoza). Golden in color, with a nose of abv: 13.5% Price: $13 cherry and red berry aromas. The palate is juicy, lively gardenia, green herb and lychee. This feels solid, but it’s and fun, with crisp, focused red-plum and cassis flavors. softening, with adequate grip despite no overt acidity. François Lurton 2009 Gran Lurton Caber- Easy to quaff. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. It tastes peachy and oily. Drink immediately. Prestige 88 net Sauvignon (Mendoza). This opens with abv: 13.9% Price: $11 Wine Group. —M.S. a whiff of green and clam shell but quickly transitions to abv: 13.5% Price: $10 black plum and berry scents. Tannic and rugged on the Graffigna 2010 Centenario Reserve Cab- palate, it has a mix of blackberry, chocolate and herbal 85 ernet Sauvignon (San Juan). Grilled burg- flavors. The finish is firm, with length and more than er, olive, leather and burnt earth aromas carry the nose. CABERNET SAUVIGNON enough power. Vintus LLC. —M.S. It feels tight in the mouth, with compact flavors of cher- abv: 14% Price: $32 ry and red berry. Chocolaty and solid on the finish, this Viña Cobos 2009 Bramare Marchiori has an overriding spunky personality. Pernod Ricard. Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Perdriel). 93 Terrazas de Los Andes 2007 Single Vine- —M.S. Fleshy and huge on the nose, this has hints of sweet red yard Los Aromos Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14% Price: $14 pepper, blackberry, dark plum and cola. It’s pure, pow- 88 (Luján de Cuyo). Untamed and herbal on the bou- erful and dense on the palate, with chewy tannins. The quet, this has a coconutty sweetness that’s offset by Alma del Sur 2011 Colección Cabernet flavors of roasted berry, cassis and chocolate are layered, scratchy berry and grassy notes. It feels firm, with high Sauvignon (Mendoza). Sweet red-fruit aro- and the finish is long, sweet and toasty. This is a modern, 84 acidity and tight tannins; the herbal flavors mingle with mas are mild and earthy. This feels rough on its own but bullish, full-bodied Cabernet to drink now–2014. 280 notes of sweet cassis and baked berry. Moët Hennessy will drink well with food. Flavors of plum, berry and cases produced. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. USA. —M.S. chocolate lead to a similar-tasting, medium finish. Mar- abv: 14.7% Price: $60 abv: 14% Price: $45 tin Scott Wines. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $10 Kaiken 2009 Ultra Cabernet Sauvignon Bodega Norton 2009 Barrel Select Cab- (Mendoza). Saturated aromas of black cur- 91 ernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). An oaky spec- Finca Flichman 2011 Gestos Cabernet rant and blueberry are nuanced with wood smoke, herb 87 imen that starts with maple syrup aromas, but it soon Sauvignon (Mendoza). Raspberry is the and mint notes. This feels ripped and tannic, but bal- 84 finds darker aromas of coffee, lemony oak and leather. lead aroma on an otherwise earthy, mossy and aggres-

WineMag.com | 15 sive nose. Full bodied and rubbery, this has a blackberry matic blast of spice, leather, coconut, cassis and black- Alta Vista 2009 Selection Malbec flavor and an overriding baked character. Sweet and un- berry. Plump and sturdy on the palate, it has fine acidity, 90 (Mendoza). The earthy-berry and prune aro- waivering on the finish. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. smooth tannins and flavors of roasted, spicy blackberry mas are rich, with a hint of juniper and green herbs. abv: 14% Price: $14 and chocolate. With baking spice and barrel-driven fla- It feels full, with medium acidity blending nicely with vors on the finish, this is a beautiful wine to drink from the creamy oak. Big, lush and generous, the palate bears Region 1 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- 2013–2018. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —M.S. black fruit and vanilla flavors, and the finish is a touch 84 gnon (Mendoza). Scratchy red-berry aromas abv: 15.5% Price: $50 pruny. Kobrand. —M.S. come with a whiff of latex and milk-chocolate-covered abv: 15.5% Price: $30 cherry. It feels grabby and tannic, with flavors of baked Bodega Maestre 2009 Escudero del Mae- berry, cinnamon and burnt rubber. The finish is warm, 92 stre Malbec (Mendoza). Smoky, staunch and Bodega Norton 2009 Reserva Malbec with an offsetting sweetness. Pampa Beverages LLC. controlled on the bouquet, this has lead pencil, black- 90 (Mendoza). With a serious, generous opening —M.S. berry and vanilla aromas. It feels pure and full, with of graphite, cassis and wild berry aromas, this Malbec abv: 13.5% Price: $15 plum, berry, creamy oak and vanilla flavors. The finish is is in good shape. It feels full, round and just right, with long, balanced and complex; overall this is an excellent, dark berry, spice and licorice flavors playing off one an- Restivo 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- full-bodied Malbec that delivers the goods. Drink now– other. It’s sweet, ripe, dense and a touch woody on the 84 gnon (Patagonia). This opens with huge aro- 2015. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. finish; drink now–2014. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. mas of dark berry, cola and maple. The palate is ultra- abv: 14.6% Price: $29 abv: 14.5% Price: $18 tannic and grabby, with a sandpaper mouthfeel and big, boistrous flavors of black fruit. Syrupy and tannic on the Gauchezco 2009 Oro Malbec (Mendoza). Colomé 2010 Estate Malbec (Calchaqui finish, it has an overt rugged feel. Biagio Cru & Estate 92 For full review see page 5. 90 Valley). For full review see page 7. Wines, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 14% Price: $15 Bodega Carmine Granata 1999 Nicolás Fabre Montmayou 2009 Phebus Reser- Antigua Bodega 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- 91 Granata Edición Especial Numerada Mal- 90 va Malbec (Mendoza). Spicy on the nose, 83 gnon (San Juan). Rubbery and spicy smell- bec (Mendoza). This wine is living proof that Argen- with berry and plum aromas. The palate is smooth and ing at first, it then loses focus, resulting in green, pi- tine Malbec can and does age well. Classic in style, it has sturdy, with toasty, ripe black-fruit flavors that carry a quant scents. This has mild cassis, strawberry and aromas of leather, tobacco, dill, vanilla and baked berry. sweet, spicy base. It finishes long and serious. Deutsch tomato flavors. The finish is soft and minty. Mistica It feels alive and kicking, with dry yet sweet berry, spice Family Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —M.S. Wines LLC. —M.S. and vanilla flavors. The finish is long and not the least bit abv: 14.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.6% Price: $12 tired; drink now or continue to hold. Tarasi . Editors’ Choice. —M.S. Finca Decero 2010 Remolinos Vineyard Funky Llama 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14% Price: $54 90 Malbec (Agrelo). A warm and generous 82 (Mendoza). Fiery red-fruit aromas precede a Malbec, this has aromas of melted rubber and berry. rough palate. It tastes like herbal red plums; the finish Bodega Cuarto Dominio 2009 Malbec It’s full, grabby and correct in the mouth, with lightly turns a bit sweet.Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S. 91 (Mendoza). For full review see page 6. herbal flavors of plum, berry and chocolate. The finish is abv: 12.5% Price: $8 abv: 15% Price: $50 big, juicy and toasty. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $20 Suter 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendo- Familia Cassone 2009 Obra Prima 81 za). Soupy aromas lead to a sharp palate, with 91 Reserva Malbec (Luján de Cuyo). Gets Finca El Origen 2010 Gran Reserva Mal- citrusy, sour red-berry flavors. It’s tangy and edgy on the out of the starting blocks with spicy, brambly aromas 90 bec (Uco Valley). Despite having tons of oaky finish. Pampa Beverages LLC. —M.S. of black cherry, red pepper flake, coconut and cassis. aromas of coconut and vanilla, it’s delicious, balanced abv: 13.5% Price: $8 It feels solid and firm, with spicy, woody and dry fla- and rich, with a graphite element. The full but smooth vors of roasted black fruit and pepper. This turns more tannins carry the thick berry and plum flavors, which barrel-influenced on the finish, with cinnamon and nut- help absorb the generous oak like a sponge. Drink now– MALBEC meg flavors holding court. Drink now–2016. Bedford 2016. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. Alta Vista 2009 Serenade Single Vine- International. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $20 yard Malbec (Luján de Cuyo). This is rich, abv: 14% Price: $21 93 Recuerdo 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). For dense and sultry smelling, with cola, vanilla, char, coco- Tomero 2006 Gran Reserva Malbec full review see page 8. nut and wild berry aromas. It feels strapping and pure, 90 (Mendoza). After the wine opens with a hit of abv: 14.5% Price: $22 with deep flavors of chocolate and blackberry offset by 91 sulfur and rubber, the bouquet turns for the better, ulti- oak-driven spice and cedar. Toasty and spicy, the finish mately delivering big black-fruit and cola aromas. Deep, Restivo 2010 Reserve Malbec (Patago- possesses a fudge-like richness. Best from 2013–2016. driven and thorough in the mouth, it has earthy-berry nia). On the bouquet, the aromas are dark Kobrand. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. 90 and mildly charred, with notes of grilled beef, black- abv: 15.5% Price: $50 and plum flavors that finish with notes of oaky coconut, vanilla and chocolate. Drink now. San Francisco Wine berry and smoke. It feels powerful, juicy and healthy, Alta Vista 2009 Alizarine Single Vineyard Exchange. —M.S. with blackberry, dark plum and spice flavors. The fin- ish is peppery, lively and bullish, with no shortage of Malbec (Luján de Cuyo). Probably the most abv: 14.5% Price: $50 92 toasty oak. Biagio Cru & Estate Wines, LLC. Best Buy. lush of Alta Vista’s three single-vineyard from Weinert 2005 Malbec (Mendoza). This is a —M.S. 2009, Alizarine offers coconut, cola and wild berry aro- prime example that Argentine Malbec can age abv: 14% Price: $15 mas, with a full-bodied, chunky palate that’s packed 91 and improve in the bottle. It’s an earthy-smelling wine, with coconut, carob, cassis and sweet blackberry flavors. with aromas of brick dust, baked bean, molasses and Tiza 2007 Malbec (Mendoza). Intense aro- Smooth, oaky and stylish on the finish, this is rewarding dried red fruit. Smooth and classy in the mouth but still mas of lead pencil, cola, cedar and blackberry now–2015. Kobrand. —M.S. 90 are complete. The palate feels lush and smooth but abv: 15.5% Price: $50 acid rich, it has integrated flavors of hard spice and berry. Drink now. Broadbent Selections, Inc. Editors’ weighty, with sweet, ripe berry fruits and well-applied Alta Vista 2009 Temis Single Vineyard Choice. —M.S. notes of toasty oak, vanilla, cola and tobacco. The fin- 92 Malbec (Uco Valley). This opens with an aro- abv: 14.5% Price: $25

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 ish is warm, smooth and mocha laden. Drink now–2014. mas are subdued and attractive. This feels slightly acid- Sur de los Andes 2009 Gran Reserva Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. ic, with a tomatoey feel to the hard-coated palate. It de- 88 Malbec (Mendoza). Dark in style, with gra- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 livers pointed red-plum and wild-berry flavors, with a ham cracker, shoe polish, hard spice and blackberry aro- dash of spice. Drink now–2015. Frontier Wine Imports. mas. It feels staunch and edgy, then tastes deep, with a Vicentin 2010 Blend de Malbecs Malbec —M.S. blackberry flavor backed by rubber and chocolate. The 90 (Mendoza). This is full and solid, with black- abv: 14.8% Price: $23 finish is marked with cocoa powder and vanilla notes. berry, boysenberry and toasty aromas. It feels smooth Winery Direct. —M.S. and lush, with plump blackberry fruit and a flavor of Alamos 2009 Selección Malbec (Mendo- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 roasted, smoky oak. The finish is mellow, with medium 88 za). For full review see page 8. intensity. Drink now and over the next two years. Do- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Tamarí 2011 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). maine Select Wine Estates. —M.S. 88 Earth and rubber notes on the bouquet give abv: 14.9% Price: $23 Alta Vista 2010 Premium Malbec (Men- way to black fruit and black olive aromas. It feels fresh, 88 doza). Fleshy and aggressive on the bouquet, with a good acid level and a solid body supporting fla- Andeluna 2009 Altitud Malbec (Tupunga- this has aromas of wild berries, with leather and dried vors of wild berry, plum and spice. The finish is toasty, 89 to). Opaque purple in color, this has grapy aro- cheese accents. It feels full and weighty, with sweet, with a fair amount of oak and bacon flavors. Terlato mas that are lush and dense. It feels grabby, tannic and almost-stewy flavors of blackberry and plum, and sup- Wines International. Best Buy. —M.S. a bit gritty, with sweet, jammy flavors of blackberry and porting notes of vanilla and spice. This finishes a bit rub- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 licorice. The finish is fiercely tannic and a bit warm. San berry. Kobrand. —M.S. Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $20 Veramonte 2010 Primus Malbec (Mendo- abv: 15% Price: $25 88 za). A new wine from Chile’s Veramonte, this Altos de San Isidro 2009 Reserve Mal- starts with huge cola and blackberry aromas. which are Caballero de la Cepa 2010 Reserva Mal- 88 bec (Salta). This opens with quality berry and backed by grippy tannins and mild astringency. It tastes 89 bec (Mendoza). A black fruit aroma is the cassis aromas. It feels crisp, focused and fresh on the bulky, bearing grippy tannins and mild astringency, with basis of the attractive bouquet. On the palate there palate, with restrained plum, black cherry and leather and blackberry notes. Coffee and spice flavors are notes of black plum and prune, with plenty of oak oaky-vanilla flavors. Steady and medium-long on the control the finish on this ripe Malbec. Huneeus Vint- influence. It finishes sweet, dark and chocolaty. Drink finish, this has controlled intensity and a touch of ners. —M.S. now–2013. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —M.S. rusticity typical of Salta. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: 14% Price: $20 Zolo 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). For full re- Michel Torino 2010 Don David Finca La Bodega Cuarto Dominio 2010 Chento 88 view see page 10. Best Buy. 89 Maravilla #6 Malbec (Cafayate). Dark, 88 Vineyard Selection Malbec (Mendoza). abv: 13.8% Price: $11 earthy and smoky up front, this has notes of cola, lead A very good, heavily oaked Malbec that exudes clove pencil and moss that are distinct to Cafayate. Full in and hickory notes before settling on aromas of earthy Alta Vista 2010 Classic Malbec (Men- feel, this has high acidity, with flavors of mossy, herb- fruit and cheesy leather. The palate feels flush and 87 doza). Red berry and cola aromas come with al black fruits. Bold, earthy and individual in character. tannic, with accents of clove and cumin and a second- a cool menthol note. It feels chunky and jammy; the Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. ary berry flavor. It ends with touches of barrel spice and moderate-to-soft acidity creates a rubbery palate, with abv: 14% Price: $20 resin. Terlato Wines International. —M.S. cherry and plum flavors. The finish turns sweet like abv: 14.5% Price: $20 caramel and slightly stewed. Kobrand. —M.S. Riglos 2009 Las Divas Vineyard Gran abv: 14.5% Price: $12 89 Malbec (Tupungato). So ripe it’s edging to- Casarena 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Much ward raisiny, with plum, nutmeg, charcoal and licorice 88 better than the 2009, this Malbec opens with Bodega Belgrano 2011 It’s a Headsnap- notes. Jammy, soft and borderline syrupy on the palate, menthol, leather and herb aromas along with notes of 87 per Malbec (Mendoza). For full review see this has saturated flavors of black fruit, burnt caramel berries. It feels deep, with a medium body and sweet, page 9. and mushroom. This is toasty on the finish but with- friendly, flavors of blackberry, brown sugar and choco- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 out much grip or edge. Drink now–2014. Paul Hobbs late. The finish tastes slightly candied. Southern Starz, Wines. —M.S. Inc. —M.S. Caligiore 2010 Reserve Malbec (Men- abv: 14.9% Price: $32 abv: 14.4% Price: $20 87 doza). Berry and black plum aromas build the nose. It’s bold but a little acidic, with medium intensity Rutini 2009 Malbec (Mendoza). Dense and Finca las Nubes 2010 Malbec (Cafayate). and weight supporting snappy flavors of wild blackberry 89 leathery on the nose, this has aromas of briary 88 Dense aromas of berries come with graph- and slightly tart plum. The finish is quick and juicy. Mar- berries and a hint of corn/masa. It feels round and tex- ite and peppery scents, with notes of wood smoke and quee Selections. —M.S. tured, with healthy tannins and chewy flavors of black- grilled meat. This feels full and a touch rough and rug- abv: 13.9% Price: $15 berry, roasted beef and herb. The medium-long finish ged, with raspberry and plum flavors matched by herbal turns a touch more herbal and complex. Pasternak Wine and burnt accents. It’s forward and toasted on the finish, Callia 2011 Alta Malbec (Tulum Valley). Imports. —M.S. with coffee, herb and animal notes. Contains 15% Cab- 87 For full review see page 10. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 ernet Sauvignon. Vine Connections. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $9 abv: 13.5% Price: $23 Tempus Alba 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Fabre Montmayou 2010 Phebus Malbec 89 Lemony oak and wood shavings are the initial Finca Los Maza 2004 FLM Gran Reser- 87 (Patagonia). This is jammy and bulky from aromas, and with time the nose transitions to vanilla and 88 va Malbec (Mendoza). This is an admirable the get-go, with heavy fruit aromas leading to a satu- mocha notes. It feels jammy and saturated, with thick aged Malbec, but it’s definitely tannic and tough. The rated, dense palate that feels thick. Baked, blackened berry flavors bolstered by hints of creamy oak and spice. nose is hard and rubbery, with tire, mushroom, graphite flavors of sweet blackberry, chocolate and mocha mark It turns more oaky on the finish, with cinnamon and res- and black cherry aromas. Feels tight as nails, with burnt the palate. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. in tones taking over. Mistica Wines LLC. —M.S. caramel, tomato, green herb and cassis flavors. This —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15 finishes with some warmth. Deutsch Family Wine & abv: 14.5% Price: $12 Spirits. —M.S. Tierra Prometida 2007 Reserva Malbec abv: 14.5% Price: $60 89 (Mendoza). Dry berry and balsam wood aro-

WineMag.com | 17 Pantago 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). For full Broadbent 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). and easygoing, and the finish is mellow and a touch flat. 87 review see page 11. Best Buy. 86 Nervy and tight smelling, this has rubber, black Drink now. Puerto Viejo Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12 plum and berry. The palate feels a touch grabby, with abv: 13% Price: $10 roasted, slightly bitter flavors of dark chocolate, espres- Region 1 2010 Reserve Malbec (Mendo- so and blackberry. The finish has plenty of oak flavor, Artes del Sur 2011 Reserve Malbec (Men- 87 za). For full review see page 9. with a leafy, herbal hint. Broadbent Selections, Inc. 85 doza). Purple in color, this wine has grapy aro- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 —M.S. mas. It feels potent yet pointy, with heavy extraction and abv: 14% Price: $14 high acidity for such a dark, berry-packed wine. The Ricardo Santos 2010 La Madras Vine- black fruit and pepper flavors are solid, and the finish is yards Malbec (Mendoza). 87 The nose in- Finca Flichman 2011 Gestos Malbec tight, with warmth and mild bitterness. Carolina Wine cludes rubbery whiffs of berry, cherry and leather. On 86 (Mendoza). Funky and jumpy, with aromas Brands USA. —M.S. the palate, it feels solid but tomatoey, with zesty red- of candied berry and grass. The palate feels flush, with abv: 14.1% Price: $12 fruit acidity and flavors of red plum, herb, tobacco and flavors of sweet berry and plum that are lightly accent- spice. It turns more charred and peppery on the finish. ed with mint. A mix of blackberry and chocolate notes Bodega del Fin del Mundo 2010 Reserva Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. unfurl on the finish. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. Malbec (Patagonia). A ripe, raisiny wine— abv: 14% Price: $19 85 abv: 14% Price: $14 it starts out with aromas of raisin, milk chocolate and candied berry. The palate is saturated, with prune and Salvatore Principe 2011 Malbec (Men- Gardel 2010 Vendimia Especial Malbec baked-plum flavors and a chunky finish. Drink now. doza). For full review see page 11. Best Buy. (Mendoza). Black in color, this wine has re- 87 86 Gaucho Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 duced aromas of blueberry, cumin and bitter choco- abv: 14% Price: $19 late. Thick and generous in the mouth, but also rugged, Santa Julia 2011 + Malbec (Mendoza). with sweet blackberry and bacon flavors and a lot of Bodega Elena de Mendoza 2010 Mal- 87 For full review see page 11. Best Buy. toasty-oak influence. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. bec (Mendoza). The rubbery plum aromas abv: 13% Price: $10 abv: NA Price: $20 85 are sweet and medicinal, and the palate feels creamy, Terrazas de Los Andes 2010 Altos del Massimo 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Puls- thick and chewy. This tastes sweet and lightly herbal, 87 Plata Malbec (Mendoza). Compact and con- 86 ing and lively, the nose bears aromas of red with baking spice and jammy black-fruit flavors and a centrated up front, the nose is propped up with hints plum and dark berry. The palate feels jumpy and rub- mild green element. The finish is a touch chunky. Wine of spice and berry. This shows good body and balance, bery, with black fruit and sweet cherry flavors. A big, Brokers Unlimited. —M.S. with berry and licorice flavors that are lightly baked, fruity and flavorful wine. DFV Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.6% Price: $11 mildly herbal and peppery. Despite a touch of green on abv: 14.5% Price: $13 the finish, this is very good. Moët Hennessy USA.Best Familia Cassone 2011 Finca La Florencia Buy. —M.S. Payana 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). Cherry, 85 Malbec (Luján de Cuyo). The smoky aro- abv: 14% Price: $12 86 leather and dried cheese aromas set up a mildly mas are hard and rubbery, turning murky and charred lactic palate, with flavors of cassis, cherry and oak-based with time. It feels leaden and almost syrupy, with flavors Valentin Bianchi 2010 Malbec (Mendo- butter. It feels good on the finish, with fruit and oak fla- of black fruit and bitter coffee that are blended with a 87 za). Concentrated, dark and distinct, the bou- vors. Domaine Select Wine Estates. Best Buy. —M.S. herbal undertone. The finish is thick, rubbery and tex- quet expresses notes of cumin and flower. It’s round, abv: 13.9% Price: $11 tured, with a burnt molasses note. Bedford Internation- grabby and a bit gummy feeling, with oaky, dark flavors al. —M.S. of blackberry, resin and spices. The finish tastes mild- Trivento 2010 Reserve Malbec (Mendo- abv: 14.5% Price: $12 ly woody, with espresso accents. Quintessential Wines. 86 za). Fresh and reasonably fruity on the nose, —M.S. but it’s also slightly gritty and tough. Shows medium Mil Piedras 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). This abv: 14.1% Price: $13 weight and intensity in the mouth, with a medicinal red- 85 comes off sharp and fiery at first, with heady berry flavor accented by spice and herb notes. It finishes aromas. It feels forward, rubbery and tannic, with Alma del Sur 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). dry and mildly oaky. Banfi Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S. flavors of blackened plum and dark spice. Bitter choco- This has simple aromas of plum, berry and abv: 14% Price: $11 86 late is the most defined flavor on the fairly short finish. sweet vanilla. The palate feels fresh, with a citrusy Cannon Wines Limited. —M.S. bounce and flavors of raspberry, red plum and mellow Verum 2010 Malbec (Alto Valle del Río abv: 14% Price: $13 spice. The finish is sweet and comported. Martin Scott 86 Negro). A blackened wine, with piercing, Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. dense aromas of shoe polish, charred oak, dark spice Spirit of the Andes 2010 abv: 13.3% Price: $9 and black fruit. It feels solid and juicy, with black-tasting Malbec (Tupungato). Grassy and scattered flavors that focus on espresso and dark spice. The finish 85 on the nose, with alfalfa, mint, berry and a note of aga- Andeluna 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Solid is a bit short on fruit. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. 86 on the bouquet, this has notes of dark fruit and abv: 13.9% Price: $17 ve or Tequila. It feels sticky at first but solid, with an smoke, with an almond-like sweetness. Big, bulky and herbal, minty flavor that is copied on the finish. Vino bullish in the mouth, it has roasted, meaty flavors that Viña Alicia 2009 Paso de Piedra Malbec Del Sol. —M.S. include campfire smoke, flamed meat and black fruit. 86 (Luján de Cuyo). Smells a bit soupy, with abv: 14% Price: $16 The finish tastes charred but feels healthy and lively. overriding aromas of leathery berry and rubbery earth. San Francisco Wine Exchange. Best Buy. —M.S. Creamy and on the heavy side, the palate has herb- TintoNegro 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). This abv: 14.5% Price: $11 accented flavors of raspberry and plum. The finish re- 85 is wiry and exotic smelling, with strained berry mains sweet, sticky and lightly herbal. Southern Starz, aromas. It feels grabby and buttery, with dry oaky and Bodega Norton 2009 Barrel Select Mal- Inc. —M.S. berry flavors. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —M.S. 86 bec (Mendoza). This opens with a blast of abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 14% Price: $10 funky, jumpy wild berry. The palate feels fresh, with a lot of fruit, acid and extract. It tastes saturated, big Viñas de Vila 2009 Reserva Malbec (Men- Finca Vides 2011 Torcidas Malbec (Men- and grapy, with herb-influenced wild-berry and animal 86 doza). Red berry and cool cola aromas are 84 doza). Dense and grapy, this feels sharp notes. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. pleasant, while the palate has a good feel even if it’s a before becoming oaky and resiny, with flavors of black- abv: 14% Price: $17 touch soft. Jammy flavors of prune and plum are ready berry and peppery spice, and a slight bitter edge.

18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 It offers chocolate and creamy-oak flavor on the finish. tangy, with flavors of tobacco and red berry. The flavors. Red pepper heat and spice mark the crisp, high- Massanois Imports. —M.S. finish is stalky and herbal tasting. Private Reserve. acid finish. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $15 —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Graffigna 2010 Centenario Reserve Mal- Coiron 2010 Merlot (Mendoza). This 84 bec (San Juan). This is superdark and sa- Medanos 2010 Made with Organic 83 smells sweet and rubbery up front. The palate vory smelling, with aromas of cumin, char, roasted 82 Grapes Malbec (Mendoza). The nose is is tannic, with a blackberry flavor that starts sweet but blackberry and licorice. Big tannins and beaming ac- brushy and earthy at first, then herbal and rubbery. It turns bitter. Mistica Wines LLC. —M.S. ids structure the palate, which bears toasty, oaky flavors feels like red berry jam on the palate, with raspberry abv: 13.5% Price: $11 of berries. The finish is spicy and salty. Pernod Ricard. flavors mixed with leafy, herbal notes. A sweet vanil- —M.S. la note appears on the finish. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. Viña Cobos 2010 Felino Merlot (Mendo- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 —M.S. 83 za). The aromas smell rubbery and soupy, es- abv: 14% Price: $15 pecially at first. Flavors of roasted berry and plum taste Kirkland Ranch 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). slightly burnt and bitter; overall, this Merlot is herbal, 84 The nose has warm, jammy aromas that suggest Ñandú 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). The oaky and heavy. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. horsehide and blackberry syrup. It feels chunky and 82 lighter-style nose that focuses on red plum and abv: 14.5% Price: $20 full, with jammy, spicy, slightly herbal flavors of black cherry is a welcome change from all of the heavy Mal- fruits. On the finish, it turns more herbal and loses its becs out there. But the palate is astringent and tastes Viñas de Vila 2009 Reserva Merlot (Men- structure. Misa Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. of tomato, stewed berry and cranberry. Polaris Wines, 82 doza). Green aromas of oregano and basil abv: 13.5% Price: $8 Inc.. —M.S. blend with tomato and red plum. It feels grabby and abv: 13.9% Price: $17 thick, with heavy flavors of carob and herb-accented red Real del Pedro 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). berry. Puerto Viejo Wines. —M.S. 84 Fairly round in the mouth, this has blackberry, Tierra de Antes 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). abv: 13% Price: $10 vanilla and butter notes. It’s rugged and simple, but 82 On the nose, the red berry aromas are rough tasty. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S. and scratchy. The palate feels acidic and clipped, with abv: 13.5% Price: $7 tart flavors of red plum, cranberry and pie cherry. The SYRAH finish is long and acidic. Broadbent Selections, Inc. Bressia 2008 Monteagrelo Syrah (Men- Kaiken 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). This is —M.S. doza). This opens with red fruit aromas that heavy and clubbing on the nose, with earthy 87 83 abv: 13% Price: $10 are wrapped around earth and leather scents, yielding a black-fruit aromas. Grabby stuff, bearing salty-tasting rustic whole. It feels snappy, with red fruit acidity lead- flavors of smoky plum and berry, and an herbal finish. Battle Axe 2010 Malbec (Argentina). ing to a gritty, lively palate, with flavors of brown sugar, T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. Dark, oaky and fiery on the nose, but soft and 81 red pepper, plum and raspberry. Long on the finish but abv: 14.5% Price: $12 globular in the mouth, with raisin and prune flavors. short on texture. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. The finish is heavy and dark, but severely raisiny. This is abv: 14% Price: $25 San Felipe 2010 Oak Cask Malbec (Men- a bit overripe. Liquid Brands LLC. —M.S. doza). Aromas of char and burnt rubber com- 83 abv: 14% Price: $15 Lagarde 2010 Syrah (Mendoza). Woodsy bine with dark spice on the nose. This has spunky acid- and warm on the bouquet, this has cedary, ity, with herb, oaky plum and berry flavors. It’s a bit Espuela del Gaucho 2011 Gaucho Spur 86 toasty aromas augmenting notes of milk chocolate and burnt on the finish, with a coffee accent. Prestige Wine Malbec (Mendoza). This smells shrill, like 80 berry fruit. It feels heavy, with berry, leather and herb Group. —M.S. rhubarb and cranberry, but it’s also a tad weedy. It tastes influences. This is big and oaky on the finish. Well-Oiled abv: 13.5% Price: $10 of grapefruit rather than berry fruit. Winery Exchange. Wine Company. —M.S. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18 Santa Julia 2011 Organica Made With Or- abv: 12.5% Price: $13 ganic Grapes Malbec (Mendoza). 83 Grassy Caligiore 2010 Reserve Syrah (Mendo- on the nose, this smells like a bale of alfalfa mixed with za). The dark and penetrating aromas of vio- blueberry and raisin. Heavy but solid on the palate, with 85 MERLOT lets, shoe polish, blackberry and road tar are solid. This a herbal accents to the wine’s berry core. This finishes a Andeluna 2010 Merlot (Tupungato). feels a bit tough on the palate, with narrow tannins and bit medicinal. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. Black fruit and graphite aromas come with an flavors of rubber and black plum. Marquee Selections. abv: 13% Price: $11 85 earthy heaviness. This is intense, with driving tannins —M.S. pushing the flavors of black plum and stewed meat. The abv: 13.9% Price: $15 Sur de los Andes 2010 Malbec (Men- finish is big and fruity, with a rubbery feel. San Fran- doza). The nose is marked with notes of 83 cisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. Antigua Bodega 2009 Syrah (San Juan). blackberry, cherry and mild oak. On the palate, it’s abv: 14.5% Price: $11 Earthy, muddy aromas of prune and cheesy tannic, with dry flavors of medicinal cherry, raspberry 81 leather mark the nose. The palate is flat, with jammy, and oak. The finish tastes oak dominant. Winery Direct. Bodega Norton 2009 Reserva Merlot medicinal raspberry flavors and a quick finish. Mistica —M.S. (Mendoza). Dense on the nose, this has aro- Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12 84 mas of wet clay, tomato and herb-accented berry. It abv: 14% Price: $12 feels tight and tannic, with notes of red plum, berry and Árido 2010 Sustainably Farmed Malbec hard spice on the back palate. The finish is peppery and Finca Pasión 2009 Mi Fuego Syrah (Men- (Mendoza). This is rough and gritty smelling, 82 mildly herbal. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. doza). The nose is grassy and minty up front. with burnt, stalky berry aromas. It feels straightforward, 80 abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Syrupy in feel, the palate bears a heavy green note and with rubbery-tasting berry flavors that lead to a sweet, a tinge of raisin. Private Reserve. —M.S. warm finish. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. Tapiz 2009 Merlot (Mendoza). Red plum abv: 13.9% Price: $15 abv: 14.5% Price: $10 84 and raspberry aromas mark the nose. Fairly acidic in nature, the palate bears cherry, plum and spice Finca Pasión 2009 Mi Amor Malbec 82 (Mendoza). Red fruit aromas come with green notes of tomato leaf, oregano and sage. It tastes

WineMag.com | 19 RED BLENDS Sauvignon. Copa Fina Imports CA. Editors’ Choice. Familia Marguery 2010 Casa Mar- —M.S. 87 guery Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon Riglos 2009 Gran Corte Las Divas Vine- abv: 14% Price: $22 (Mendoza). Dense and sweet up front, the nose is 96 yard (Tupungato). For full review see page 3. balanced and deep, with blackberry and graham crack- Editors’ Choice. Antucura 2007 Calcura (Mendoza). This er aromas. The palate feels grippy and concentrated, abv: 14.9% Price: $50 90 is prickly and spicy on first take, followed by an bearing blackberry, dark plum and black pepper flavors, aromatic wave of ripe berry and tobacco. It feels jam- with a lifted flower note. This finishes mild and spicy. Bodega Norton 2009 Privada (Mendoza). my and almost heavy, with creamy, milkshake flavors of Southern Wine Group. —M.S. 93 For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. blackberry, vanilla and cream, and a warm, Port-like fin- abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 14.8% Price: $23 ish. A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 20%; drink now–2014. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. Ruca Malen 2010 Yauquen Malbec-Cab- Finca Decero 2009 Amano Remolinos abv: 14.8% Price: $20 86 ernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). The nose is 93 Vineyard (Agrelo). A lovely blend of 60% jammy and slightly medicinal at first, but then plum Malbec, 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot and Antucura 2007 Grand Vin (Mendo- and berry aromas settle. This feels firmly tannic and 3% Tannat, this is strong, with aromas of coconut, cola, 90 za). Smooth, subtle and ripe, this has cola, mouthfilling, with baked berry and roasted plum flavors. chocolate and pure berry. It’s a powerful wine, with a blackberry and subtle spice aromas that sit nicely in The finish is hard and strapping, with excess power.Opici flavorful core of black fruit accented by coffee and the glass. It’s jammy, rich and dense on the palate, with Wines. —M.S. burnt toast. Drink now–2018. Vintus LLC. —M.S. sweet-tasting berry flavors. The finish shows spice and abv: 13.8% Price: $12 abv: 14.5% Price: $60 pastry notes. Only 500 cases were made of this blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 20% Mal- Viña Alicia 2008 Morena (Luján de Cuyo). Finca Flichman 2009 Paisaje de Barran- bec. Drink now–2015. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. 86 This blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon and 93 cas (Mendoza). For full review see page 4. abv: 14.8% Price: $30 12% Cabernet Franc is rustic smelling, with a rubbery, Editors’ Choice. tannic mouthfeel and flavors of roasted plum and berry. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Bodegas Caro 2010 Amancaya Gran Let this wine aerate to show its best. Southern Starz, 90 Reserva Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon Inc. —M.S. Viña Cobos 2009 Cobos Volturno Marchi- (Mendoza). For full review see page 7. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 93 ori Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon-Malbec abv: 14.5% Price: $20 (Perdriel). This opens with a blast of blueberry, sweet DiamAndes 2010 Perlita Malbec-Syrah grass and baking spices. On the palate, it feels syrupy O. Fournier 2005 Alfa Crux Red (Uco 85 (Uco Valley). Dark and concentrated, this has and rich, with heavy flavors of caramel, baked berry, va- 90 Valley). After an initial blast of cheesy, lactic jammy, raisiny aromas that are marked with a strong nilla and blackberry jam. Sweet, modern in style and oak, the nose settles on molasses and prune. This feels current of green. It feels full but a touch flat, with ripe to the max, this has a lush, plush finish of saturated saturated and tough, with a steady drumming of hard sweet berry flavors and a core of mint. The finish ends berry and copious oak notes. Only 307 cases were made tannins bolstering sweet, dark flavors of blackberry, bit- abruptly. Dourthe USA. Best Buy. —M.S. of this blend of 81% Cabernet and 19% Malbec. Drink ter chocolate and peppercorn. A wine that’s excellent abv: 13% Price: $10 now–2016. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. for its power, it turns a bit raisiny on the finish. Drink abv: 14.9% Price: $200 now. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. Caligiore 2011 Staccato Made with Or- abv: 14.8% Price: $45 84 ganically Grown Grapes Malbec-Caber- Durigutti 2006 Familia (Mendoza). This is net Sauvignon (Mendoza). On the nose, aromas of 92 a stacked Malbec-led blend, with pure black- Alta Vista 2007 Alto (Mendoza). sweet, red hard candy mingle with a note of animal fur. berry, prune, cola and graphite aromas. It feels su- 89 Superdense, jammy, extracted and dark, this Fairly tannic and lively in the mouth, this has herbal, per healthy and ripped, with toasty black-fruit flavors has aromas of graphite, cola and sweet pastry along with rubbery flavors alongside jumpy red-berry fruit. The topped with vanilla and peppery spice. The finish is a note of black fruit preserve. It feels lush and thick, finish is a bit abrasive. Marquee Selections. —M.S. toasty, dark and full of licorice. Only 500 cases were bearing oaky, globular flavors of licorice and black fruit abv: 13.9% Price: $10 made. Drink now–2014. Southern Wine Group. Edi- that seem a bit sticky, with a resiny finish. A blend of tors’ Choice. —M.S. 70% Malbec and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. Kobrand. Dominio del Plata 2008 Crios de Su- abv: 14.5% Price: $58 —M.S. 84 sana Balbo Syrah-Bonarda (Mendoza). abv: 15% Price: $90 The bouquet smells a bit rubbery, with notes of black Kaiken 2009 Corte Malbec-Bonarda-Pe- fruits. Clampy and astringent in the mouth, this has 91 tit Verdot (Mendoza). Arguably one of the Weinert 2004 Cavas de Weinert Gran lightly herbal flavors of raspberry and spice. The finish best values in modern-style red wine, this blend of 89 Vino (Mendoza). Rustic and leathery smell- is minty and feels a bit tough. Vine Connections. —M.S. Malbec, Bonarda and Petit Verdot delivers huge black- ing, the nose has hints of bell pepper, jalapeño and to- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 and blue-fruit aromas, which lead onto the palate, with mato. It feels mildly astringent but has good structure. massive blackberry, black currant, cola, spice and toast The flavors of dried red fruit, tobacco, herb and sweet Aconga 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon-Mal- flavors. This is a strapping wine to drink with steak and spice are mature and classic, and the finish has a good 82 bec (Mendoza). Red cherry and plum aromas grilled lamb. T.G.I.C. Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. feel. This is a blend of 40% Malbec, 40% Cabernet Sau- are citric in style, while the palate is quite citrusy, too, abv: 14.5% Price: $14 vignon and 20% Merlot. Drink now. Broadbent Selec- with flavors of plum skin and pie cherry. This finishes tions, Inc. —M.S. tannic and grabby. Winery Exchange. —M.S. Mi Terruño 2009 Limited Reserve Mal- abv: 14.5% Price: $28 abv: 12.5% Price: $9 91 bec-Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). On the nose, smoky aromas of bacon and rubber mingle Bodega del Fin del Mundo 2008 Spe- with notes of toasty oak and black fruit. The palate is 87 cial Blend Reserva (Patagonia). Deep and OTHER RED WINES dense, this smells horsey and leathery, with aromas of lively and vital, with powerful plum, berry, vanilla and Bressia 2009 Monteagrelo Cabernet earthy berries. The palate feels racy with acidity, and the butter flavors. There’s a leftover butter note on the fin- Franc (Mendoza). This is one of Walter Bres- flavors of berry, cassis, cola and vanilla lead to a sweet, 90 ish along with texture and length. Ripe, lush and well sia’s better wines under his Monteagrelo label. It opens jammy finish, with touches of vanilla and caramel. Gau- oaked, this is a blend of 55% Malbec and 45% Cabernet with spicy, peppery aromas that include cherry and ber- cho Imports, LLC. —M.S. ry scents. The palate is tannic, with cassis, plum, basil, abv: 14.5% Price: $45 oregano and spice flavors. This finishes long, with notes

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 of coffee and chocolate entering the picture. Kysela Vine Cliff 2010 Chardonnay (Los Carne- Balletto 2009 Estate Bottled Chardonnay Père et Fils. —M.S. 93 ros). This is very rich; it’s the kind of Chardon- 87 (Russian River Valley). There are a lot of abv: 14% Price: $25 nay that will dazzle fans of the oaky, creamy style. It’s ripe, upfront pineapple and orange flavor in this Char- dry, despite the layered flavors of pineapple tart, orange donnay, with a touch of vanilla and buttered toast. I has Finca Decero 2009 Remolinos Vineyard cream, vanilla, buttered toast and cinnamon. It defines good acidity, making it clean and bright. —S.H. 89 Petit Verdot (Agrelo). Toasty aromas of wood the luxe style of Chardonnay without ever straying into abv: 13.9% Price: $24 shavings, menthol, cola and blackberry compose the extremes. Drink now. —S.H. nose. This is flush and wide on the palate, with black- abv: 14.4% Price: $39 Gary Farrell 2009 Russian River Selec- berry, coffee, chocolate, toast and molasses flavors. It 87 tion Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). feels a little soft, so drink now. Vintus LLC. —M.S. Antica 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). With brisk acidity and upfront fruit, this is ready to abv: 14.5% Price: $36 92 A big improvement over the ’09, this shows in- drink. The pineapple, pear and oak flavors are housed creased mastery of the grapes, which come from the es- in a creamy mouthfeel. —S.H. tate on Atlas Peak. Fashioned in the Burgundian style, abv: 14.2% Price: $32 CALIFORNIA this has some new oak and plenty of sur lie character, with rich, ripe flavors of pineapple, golden mango and CHARDONNAY yellow apricot and firm minerality. Drink now with lob- Joseph Jewell 2011 Chardonnay (Rus- sters, crabs, scallops and similar rich fare. —S.H. 87 sian River Valley). Rich and spicy, this has Sandhi 2010 Rita’s Crown Chardonnay abv: 14.1% Price: $35 forward flavors of orange, apricot, golden mango and 94 (Sta. Rita Hills). This Chardonnay is intense, buttered toast flavors. It’s brightened with crisp acidity, feeling as tight as a steel spring. It shows how well the Sandhi 2010 Chardonnay (Santa Barba- but it seems to finish a touch sweet. —S.H. Santa Rita Hills ripens grapes, while maintaining vital 92 ra County). A Chablis-like style of Chardon- abv: 14.1% Price: $22 acidity. Just massive in orange, pineapple, apricot and nay, this is utterly dry and zingy in acidity, with mineral- golden mango flavors, with a firm, steely minerality. -De ity that’s like a lick of cold steel. In the wine’s core are Mayacamas 2009 Chardonnay (Mount spite the richness, the finish is totally dry. Drink over the densely concentrated flavors of pineapple and tropical 87 Veeder). Lean and austere, this is bone dry and next 4−6 years. —S.H. fruit. Elaborately textured and elegantly tailored, drink tart in acidity, with lemon, apricot and mineral flavors, abv: 13% Price: $55 this over the next 2−3 years. —S.H. touched with oak. Don’t expect California opulence, but abv: 13.5% Price: $28 look instead for elegance and finesse. —S.H. La Follette 2010 Sangiacomo Vineyard abv: 14.5% Price: $30 93 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). For full re- Smith-Madrone 2009 Chardonnay view see page 4. 92 (Spring Mountain). For full review see page Morgan 2011 Un-Oaked Chardonnay abv: 14.2% Price: $38 5. 87 (Monterey). Pure, upfront flavors of lemon, abv: 14.2% Price: $35 lime and orange mark this unoaked Chardonnay. Zesty Marimar Estate 2009 Bonita’s Hill Don Central Coast acidity is present, brightening and cleans- Ghostwriter 2010 Chardonnay (Santa 93 Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian ing the richness. With a dry finish, it’s nice now with su- Cruz Mountains). With great dryness, miner- River Valley). For full review see page 4. 90 shi, fruit salad or grilled chicken. —S.H. ality and acidity, this marches to a different beat from abv: 14.7% Price: $39 abv: 14.1% Price: $21 today’s rich, oaky style. It’s austere, with suggestions of citrus fruit and flint. It exhibits great structure and com- Sandhi 2010 Bent Rock Chardonnay Balletto 2010 Teresa’s Unoaked Char- plexity. —S.H. 93 (Sta. Rita Hills). Powerful and insistent, this is donnay (Russian River Valley). With no abv: 12% Price: $30 86 a Chardonnay that wrestles the mouth into submission. oak influence, this is pure and simple. It has direct fla- It’s muscular in apricot, orange and peach fruit flavors, La Follette 2009 Lorenzo Vineyard Char- vors of ripe pineapples, apricots, oranges and Meyer and it’s brightened with keen acidity—like a squeeze donnay (Russian River Valley). Rich and lemons. The acidity is very strong, giving the wine a of lime—but for all the richness, the finish is absolute- 90 pure in tropical fruit, pear and apricot flavors, this Char- sweet-and-sour feel. —S.H. ly dry and minerally. Almost a food group in itself, it’s donnay also has a sweet jacket of toasty oak. It’s a fine abv: 13.5% Price: $20 strong enough to drink as an appetizer. —S.H. wine, buttery and crisp in acidity. Drink now. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $90 Beaulieu Vineyard 2010 Coastal Estates abv: 14.3% Price: $38 86 Chardonnay (California). A solid effort that Sandhi 2010 Bien Nacido Vineyard Char- Handley 2010 Chardonnay (Mendoci- delivers all the buttery, creamy and fruity flavors most donnay (Santa Maria Valley). This com- 93 no County). This is a lovely combination of consumers love. Clean and vibrant in mouthwatering bines concentrated flavors of citrus, peach and green 89 stone fruit and grapefruit flavors, with a creaminess that acidity, it’s rich in pineapple, orange and spicy pear fla- appl, with medium alcohol to produce a dry, minerally makes the wine very inviting. Pleasing and balanced, vors. Best Buy. —S.H. young Chardonnay. It’s austere by itself, yet very fine this shows minerality and a tinge of vanilla on the finish. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 and elegant. The oak influence is there in the form of Pair it with fish or light meats off the grill. —V.B. toast flavor, but it’s modulated. It’s easy to love, and ver- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Graton Ridge 2010 Chardonnay (Rus- satile enough to pair with a range of foods. —S.H. 86 sian River Valley). Acidity dominates this abv: 13% Price: $45 Wente 2010 Morning Fog Chardonnay Chardonnay despite rich pineapple, orange and apricot 89 (Livermore Valley-San Francisco Bay). flavors. It’s rather oaky, with a flavor of buttered toast. Sandhi 2010 Sanford & Benedict Char- For full review see page 10. Best Buy. Made in the popular style, it’s for drinking now. —S.H. 93 donnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Enormously rich and abv: 13.5% Price: $14 abv: 14.5% Price: $29 ripe, this is almost oversized, with flavors of pineapple and tropical-fruit pie filling, vanilla, honey and buttered Chalone 2010 Chardonnay (Monterey). Grgich Hills 2008 Carneros Selection toast. Balance to its opulence comes in the form of 88 This is dry, crisp and minerally; it’s made in a 86 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). This Chardon- tart, citrusy acidity and a bracing minerality. It will last lighter style that makes it especially food friendly. The nay remains dry and resistant in acids and tannins. The for 5−6 years, but it’s really best now for its freshness. flavors suggest oranges, apricots and tart Meyer lemons. flavors are elusive, suggesting minerals and lemons, —S.H. Best Buy. —S.H. with plenty of brisk, citrusy acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: 14.5% Price: $75

WineMag.com | 21 Churchill Cellars 2010 Chardonnay (Rus- Murphy-Goode 2010 Chardonnay (Cali- fantastic acidity that awakens the palate and prepares 85 sian River Valley). Made in a style to appeal 82 fornia). This is ripe in apricot and orange fla- it for food. —S.H. to many Chardonnay drinkers, this one seems to have vors, but it’s simple and sweet on the finish. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $24 sweetness, with flavors of custard, vanilla, butter cream abv: 13.9% Price: $14 and orange jam. —S.H. Snap Dragon 2010 Riesling (California). abv: 14.3% Price: $30 3 Steves Winery 2009 Chardonnay 88 A lovely off-dry Riesling that’s crisply elegant. 80 (Livermore Valley). A Livermore Chardon- This is the kind of wine that shows why Riesling is expe- Hook & Ladder 2010 Chardonnay (Rus- nay tasting of honey and sour green apple, this has a riencing an uptick. With apricot, citrus, vanilla and hon- 85 sian River Valley). This wears an oak jacket touch of sweetness on the finish. —V.B. eysuckle flavors, it’s a great wine to drink with slightly over its pineapple, orange and honey flavors. Brisk acid- abv: 14.8% Price: $22 sweet, spicy foods like Vietnamese, Thai, Burmese or ity brings a clean finish. —S.H. Middle Eastern. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $9 abv: 14.1% Price: $19 PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO Lange Twins 2010 Reserve Chardonnay Santa Barbara Winery 2010 Lafond Vine- Babcock 2011 Naughty Little Hillsides Pi- (Clarksburg). This is an estate-grown Char- yard 8.3 Riesling (Sta. Rita Hills). The 8.3 85 not Gris (Sta. Rita Hills). This effort contin- 85 donnay, with flavors of vanilla, tropical pineapple and 89 designation refers to the residual sugar by weight. It is ues Babcock’s consistent performance with this bottling. guava that are surrounded by an oaky character and a indeed a very sweet wine, rich in simple honey, orange It has creamy weight and opulence, with lighter flavors lemony finish. —V.B. and apricot flavors. —S.H. of lemon and lime and a lovely streak of honeysuckle abv: 13.9% Price: $30 abv: 10.3% Price: $15 flower. —S.H. abv: 13.4% Price: $20 A By Acacia 2010 Chardonnay (Cali- fornia). 84 Zesty acidity perks up the palate and Inman Family 2010 Pinot Gris (Russian SAUVIGNON BLANC makes it easy to appreciate the flavors of ripe pineapple, River Valley). This unoaked wine is bone dry, Andis Wines 2011 Sauvignon Blanc orange, buttered toast and cream. With some sweet- 89 tart in acidity, low in alcohol and intricate with citrus, (Amador County). At first, this shows ness, finish tastes slightly candied. —S.H. 93 pear and mineral flavors. What a nice wine for a cocktail faint aromas of lemon, pear and orange zest be- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 sipper or for anything ranging from Thai to Mexican to fore gaining steam and finishing with a dollop of bal- simple picnic fare. —S.H. anced white peach. Light in alcohol, this fresh, floral, Crème de Lys 2010 Chardonnay (Cali- abv: 12.6% Price: $32 mineral-laced wine should pair with goat cheese or fornia). This is ripe and forward in orange and 84 seafood—especially in summer. —V.B. pineapple jam, with buttered toast, vanilla and spice fla- Laird 2010 Cold Creek Ranch Pinot Gri- abv: 12.9% Price: $19 vors that seem to finish with sweetness. —S.H. gio (Carneros). Carneros is one of the best abv: 13.5% Price: $12 89 places to grow Pinot Grigio/Gris in California. The Cade 2010 Estate Sauvignon Blanc cool climate lends this unoaked wine vital acids and (Napa Valley). Spicy and savory, this is a La Crema 2010 Chardonnay (Monterey). 91 subtle citrus, peach, flower and mineral flavors. With a whistle-clean, dry Sauvignon Blanc that’s perfect as a This has flavors of pineapple, orange and but- 84 dry, spicy finish, it’s a nice partner for roasted chicken. cocktail sipper. It offers aromas and flavors of lemon, tered toast, with lots of brisk acidity. It offers the oaky —S.H. lime and vanilla, with bright, citrusy acidity. —S.H. creaminess that many Americans love. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $18 abv: 14.4% Price: $42 abv: 13.8% Price: $18 Morgan 2011 R&S Franscioni Vineyard Hand Made by Marketta 2009 Sauvignon Lange Twins 2010 Estate Grown Char- Pinot Gris (Santa Lucia Highlands). Made Blanc (Napa Valley). For full review see page donnay (Clarksburg). Full of buttery, tropi- 88 91 84 with just a bit of oak, this wine stars fresh, juicy, off-dry 6. Editors’ Choice. cal flavors, it also has a barrel-infused taste of petroleum fruit. The apricot, orange and lemon flavors are bright- abv: 13.8% Price: $24 and char. —V.B. ened by crisp acidity. A wonderful cocktail sipper, this abv: 13.9% Price: $15 should also pair well with a range of spicy ethnic fare. Hartwell 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Los Carneros). An exotic Sauvignon Blanc, this is Rail2Rail 2010 sur lie Chardonnay (Mon- —S.H. 91 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 filled with flavors of citrus and tropical fruit, with touch- terey). Rich flavors of orange and tropical fruit 84 es of mineral, flower and spice. It’s bone dry and crisply are marked with brisk acidity and a touch of Cham- McManis 2011 Pinot Grigio (California). acidic—the way Sauvignon Blanc should be. This de- pagne-like sourdough yeast. The finish is sugary and For full review see page 11. Best Buy. fines elegance and complexity. —S.H. simple. —S.H. 86 abv: 11.5% Price: $10 abv: 14.1% Price: $35 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Long Meadow Ranch 2011 Sauvignon Firefly Ridge 2011 Chardonnay (Central RIESLING Blanc (Rutherford). For full review see page Coast). This a bit sweet, with flavors of pine- 91 83 6. Editors’ Choice. apple, orange and buttered that are brightened by brisk Ludwig 2010 Sweetwater Vineyard Ries- abv: 12.9% Price: $20 Central Coast acidity. —S.H. 90 ling (Monterey). This is a good follow up to abv: 13% Price: $10 the very successful 2009 vintage. Ludwig’s 2010 is dry- Laird 2011 Big Ranch Sauvignon Blanc ish and brilliantly crisp in acidity. It offers clean, racy (Napa Valley). This is a rich, young Sauvignon Snap Dragon 2010 Chardonnay (Califor- flavors of tart citrus, white flower, diesel and mineral. 90 Blanc for drinking now. Dry on the finish and tart in nia). Simple and soft, this has flavors of but- —S.H. 83 acidity, it shows complex pineapple, pear, grapefruit tered popcorn, vanilla and sweet pineapple. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 and hay flavors, with a touch of peppery spice. Editors’ abv: 13.5% Price: $9 Choice. —S.H. Ojai 2010 Kick On Ranch Riesling (San- abv: 14.6% Price: $20 Dominican Oaks 2011 Unoaked Char- 88 ta Barbara County). What a surprise to find donnay (California). Sweet and soft, this has that this Riesling is bone dry. It boasts complex flavors 82 Snowden 2010 Sunninghill Sauvignon pineapple, orange and vanilla flavors. The firm acidity of mineral, lime, Meyer lemon and orange zest, with Blanc (Napa Valley). Classic aromas of fresh- helps to maintain some balance. —S.H. 90 ly mown grass, hay, lemon, lime and wet stone mark this abv: 13% Price: $10

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 Sauvignon Blanc. It’s savory in acidity, feeling fresh, racy Shannon Ridge 2011 Sauvignon Blanc than most California Viogniers, this has mineral, tanger- and a touch spritzy on the mouth. Tasted in March, it 86 (Lake County). An explosion of gooseberry ine and apricot flavors, with considerable acidity. —S.H. was a little spritzy, but that should be gone by the time comes first, followed by layers of creamy apricot fuzz abv: 13.5% Price: $24 you read this review. —S.H. and lemongrass, trailed by Lake County’s typical acidity. abv: 14% Price: $24 This has balance and texture. —V.B. Lange Twins 2010 Viognier (Clarksburg). abv: 13.5% Price: $16 81 There’s a lot of barrel influence in this acidic Babcock 2011 Estate Grown Sauvignon Viognier that finishes with a metallic taste. —V.B. 89 Blanc (Sta. Rita Hills). This is from a notori- Alma Sol 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Paso abv: 14.9% Price: $17 ously chilly vintage, with brisk acidity and mineral and 85 Robles). This unoaked Sauvignon Blanc show- green flavors that accompany the citrus fruits. The re- cases pure flavors of lemon, lime and green melon. The Capay Valley 2011 Viognier (Capay Val- sult is complex and highly satisfying. Only 680 cases acidity is brisk, providing brightness. A touch of sugary 80 ley). There’s a strong peach-fuzz aroma envel- were produced. —S.H. sweetness on the finish should make it pair nicely with oping this wine. It’s unoaked, tasting overly rich and oily. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $20 Asian fare. —S.H. abv: 13.3% Price: $13 abv: 13.3% Price: $15 Bink 2010 Randle Hill Vineyard Sau- vignon Blanc (Yorkville Highlands). 89 A Parducci 2010 Small Lot Blend Sauvi- crowd-pleasing Sauvignon Blanc from the heights of WHITE BLENDS gnon Blanc (Mendocino County). This Yorkville, this full, creamy and fresh, teeming with acid- 84 Sauvignon Blanc smells of lemon, vanilla and pear. It’s Sanguis 2010 Postcard From Morocco ity. Its combination of aromas and flavors of honeysuck- crisp and steely, with sourness on the finish. —V.B. (California). Made from Roussanne, Viognier, le, pear and grapefruit are near impossible not to like. 93 abv: 13.5% Price: $11 Marsanne and Chardonnay, this is like nothing else in Pair this wine with Hog Island oysters. —V.B. California. Aged in older, neutral oak, the wine’s fruit abv: 14.1% Price: $22 Voss 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- stars, with complex apricot, kumquat and orange fla- ley). vors. It’s enormously high in alcohol, but wears it well. Keever 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- 84 This is bone dry, crisp in acidity and low in alcohol. The fruit is green, suggesting limes, and is The grapes are sourced from top vineyards in Santa ley). Rich and textured, if a little heavy, this 89 Barbara County. —S.H. has flavors of pear butter, green melon and honeysuck- strongly marked by a feline aroma. —S.H. abv: 15.7% Price: $50 le. Made in a ripe, flashy way, it’s a wine to drink now. abv: 11.5% Price: $18 —S.H. Amador Foothill Winery 2011 Sauvignon abv: 14.5% Price: $28 Mt. Konocti Winery 2010 Sauvignon 83 Blanc (Lake County). An intense aroma of 87 Blanc-Semillon (Shenandoah Valley). This is light, with a nose of fresh stone fruit—mostly Bonterra 2010 Made With Organic lemon peel marks the nose, with a note of apricot fuzz a peach—as well as melon. It’s a delightful blend of 75% Grapes Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County- musky overtone of flavor. —V.B. 88 Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Sémillon that will appeal to Mendocino County). For full review see page 9. abv: 14.5% Price: $16 Sémillon fans. iIts acidity is balanced and bracing; the abv: 13% Price: $14 Santa Barbara Winery 2010 Sauvignon finish is full of lemon flavor. Best Buy. —V.B. Honig 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- 82 Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). This has green abv: 13.5% Price: $12 ley). Zippy acidity lends crisp freshness to the aromas that lead to simple, sweet-and-sour citrus fla- 88 St. Francis 2010 White Splash (Califor- lemongrass and freshly squeezed lime flavors. With a vors. —S.H. nia). With a sweet, flowery nose, this blend of honey-sweet midpalate, it’s a lovely wine to drink now abv: 13.8% Price: $15 87 Viognier, Pinot Grigio, and Gewürztraminer with Vietnamese, Ethiopian or Mexican fare. —S.H. abv: 13.3% Price: $17 Green Truck 2008 Sauvignon Blanc has plenty of acidity to balance out its subtle sweetness. 81 (Lake County). This wine, made from organic —V.B. Patianna 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Men- grapes, opens with a nose of steely lemon but it devolves abv: 13.5% Price: $13 docino). Sadly, this is the last Patianna Sauvi- quickly into lemony cough drop territory, with a sour- 88 Pine Ridge 2011 Chenin Blanc-Viognier gnon Blanc made by the late Mike Lee. It opens with ness in taste. —V.B. (California). This white blend has semisweet great, subtle aromatics of just-ripe pear and melon and abv: 13.5% Price: $14 86 flavors of orange, pear, tropical fruit and honeysuckle. is balanced and easy to like. The finish is long and lean, The spicy finish is crisp and clean, making it an easy with layers of acidity that would match well with scal- lops, shrimp or fresh oysters. —V.B. VIOGNIER match with Mexican, Thai and Indian fare. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $17 abv: 12% Price: $14 Failla 2010 Alban Vineyard Viognier Starmont 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa 93 (Edna Valley). Few vintners get fruit from Jade Mountain 2009 White (California). 88 Valley). A bit of neutral oak has allowed the coveted Alban Vineyard, but Failla’s Ehren Jor- 85 Simply constructed, this has flavors of orange, this fresh, bone-dry Sauvignon Blanc to breathe and dan does. He takes advantage of the brisk acidity and mango and buttered toast. This will appeal to many who mellow. It’s made from the Musque clone, which gives purity of fruit found in the vineyard’s grapes. Dry and like their white wines with some sweetness. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 it an exotic gooseberry and lime-like grassiness, while full-bodied, this delivers elaborate tropical fruit, peach, one-fifth Sémillon brings needed fatness and oiliness to honey and spice flavors. —S.H. Signorello 2010 SETA (Napa Valley). a wine that otherwise would be severely lean. Editors’ abv: 14.7% Price: $42 Heavy and oaky, this has toast and butterscotch Choice. —S.H. 84 flavors. This won’t age, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 Darioush 2010 Signature Viognier (Napa 90 Valley). A beguiling Viognier, showing ripe abv: 15.3% Price: $36 Ojai 2010 McGinley Vineyard Sauvignon orange, peach and nectarine flavors, rolled into waves of 86 Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). Strong notes butter, cream and toast. Best of all is its vital acidity that OTHER WHITE WINES of lemongrass and pineapple jam mark this Sauvignon makes this so zesty and balanced. —S.H. Blanc. It has a nice cut of acidity. While it’s not partic- abv: 14.8% Price: $39 Andis Wines 2011 Bill Dillian Vineyard ularly subtle, this is ready to drink now as a cocktail. 92 Sémillon (Amador County). This young, —S.H. Ojai 2010 Roll Ranch Vineyard Viognier delicious Sémillon is creamy yet bright, complex, pret- abv: 13% Price: $26 87 (California). Made in a leaner, racier style ty and crisply sweet—like biting into a just-picked fig.

WineMag.com | 23 Light in alcohol, this baby can be sipped all night long. Schramsberg signature of elegance and symmetry—a blush wine for everything from bouillabaisse and paella —V.B. with streamlined fanciness. Made from to roast ham and broiled chicken. —S.H. abv: 12.9% Price: $19 100% Chardonnay, this is still pretty tight and austere, abv: 12.9% Price: $24 with a minerally hardness to the pear, citrus and yeast Holly’s Hill 2010 Estate Roussanne (El flavors. These late disgorged wines are not meant to be Kessler-Haak 2011 Kessler-Haak Vine- 88 Dorado). Florally pungent, with sweet peach further aged, so drink it now. —S.H. 88 yard Rosé of Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). and apricot notes, this smells great. It’s richly textured abv: 12.5% Price: $90 This is nicely dry and crisp in acidity, with sour cherry, and balanced. —V.B. raspberry and mineral flavors. It’s a bit heavy and full- abv: 14.1% Price: $18 Mumm Napa 2007 Blanc de Blancs bodied, making it a nice partner for smoked ham and 87 (Napa Valley). The palate is textured, tuna tartare. —S.H. Husch 2011 Chenin Blanc (Mendocino). bearing a slight sweetness, with flavors of lime, lemon abv: 13.9% Price: $30 88 This is bursting with peach, pear and almond and orange. Ten percent Pinot Gris was added to the aromas. It’s balanced and light, with 1.2% residual sug- Chardonnay. —S.H. Cline 2011 Mourvèdre Rosé (Contra ar—just the right amount to pair it with spicy Thai curry abv: 12.5% Price: $36 87 Costa County). Dark pink in color and aro- or a strongly flavored cheese course. Best Buy. —V.B. matically true to its Mourvèdre roots, this has an oaky, abv: 13.6% Price: $12 McIntyre Vineyards NV L’Homme Qui Ris earthy edge to its ripe strawberry flavor. This is a sum- 86 (Santa Lucia Highlands). A bit rough on mertime wine that should pair with a range of foods, Olson Ogden 2009 Margaret’s Mandate the palate, this is dryish and rich, with flavors of citrus, or it should perfect for patio sipping. Cherry and plum 88 Marsanne (Napa Valley). This full-bodied sourdough bread and spice that are wrapped into the flavors, almost sangria-like, predominate on the finish. version—sourced from Napa Valley’s famed Stagecoach creamy texture. —S.H. Best Buy. —V.B. Vineyard—tastes very much like a barrel-fermented abv: 12% Price: $29 abv: NA Price: $12 Sauvignon Blanc, with honey and green apple flavors. Well-made, the finish shows the wine’s time spent in Viszlay Vineyards 2009 Estate Bottled La Rochelle 2011 Pinot Noir Rosé (Santa 33% French oak. —V.B. 82 Prosecco (Russian River Valley). Don’t 87 Lucia Highlands). Acidic and assertive, this abv: 14.7% Price: $35 confuse this with authentic Prosecco from Italy. It’s palely colored blush needs food to soften it and coax out not that good. Dry, thin and textured, this has a rough the sweetness. With subtle flavors of sour cherry candy Tower 15 2010 Grenache Blanc (Paso mouthfeel. —S.H. and rosehip tea, this finishes bone dry. It should be a 88 Robles). Nicely dry and tart for a Paso Robles abv: 12% Price: $28 nice partner with ham-based dishes or a spicy bouilla- , this has flavors of sour pineapple candy, baisse. —S.H. barely ripe pear, tobacco and Provençal herb. The acid- abv: 12.5% Price: $24 ity really kicks in, making the mouth water. This is ver- ROSÉ Tower 15 2011 Sunset Rosé (Paso Ro- satile and should pair with a wide range of fare. —S.H. Sanglier Cellars 2011 Rosé du Tusque abv: 14.2% Price: $19 bles). A simple but elegant blush wine, this is (Sonoma County). A delightful blush wine— 87 91 nicely tart, with subtle flavors of citrus zest, tobacco and one of the best out there. Made from Grenache, Shannon Ridge 2009 Morine Ranch spice flavors that finish absolutely dry. Low alcohol adds Mourvèdre and , it’s bone dry and brilliant in Roussanne (High Valley). A full-bodied to the wine’s attractions. —S.H. 86 acidity, with complex, savory flavors of rose petal, or- Roussanne, this tastes like vanilla custard and pine- abv: 13.2% Price: $19 ange tea, dried herb and spice. Really defines the el- apple. It shows the influence of its 13% Viognier and egant style of California rosé. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. French oak aging. —V.B. Hogwash 2011 Rosé (California). Sweet in abv: 12.2% Price: $16 abv: 15.1% Price: $24 86 raspberries and crisp in acidity, this is a likeable Liquid Farm 2011 Vogelzang Vineyard rosé to drink with burgers. Based on Grenache, it has Firefly Ridge 2011 Moscato (California). Rosé (Happy Canyon of Santa Barba- subtle a herbal overtone. —S.H. Sweet in apricot, orange and vanilla flavors, this 90 abv: 12.9% Price: $16 84 ra). Blended from Mourvèdre and Grenache, this is a Moscato should appeal to many consumers. —S.H. dry rosé. Brightened with crisp acidity and bracing min- abv: 10% Price: $10 Montevina 2011 White Zinfandel (Ama- erality, it shows subtle flavors of citrus, rosehip tea and dor County). Amador County’s mighty Zin white pepper. The winemaker says the inspiration is 85 producer Montevina has made a White Zin for White Bandol. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. SPARKLING WINE Zin aficionados. This is a pink, simple and slightly sweet abv: 12.5% Price: $24 Schramsberg 2007 Brut (Anderson Val- wine that many will find refreshing. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 10.9% Price: $6 92 ley). Made mostly from Pinot Noir, with the Midsummer Cellars 2011 Grenache Rosé balance Chardonnay, this is a richly satisfying sparkling (Yolo County). For full review see page 8. 90 Pedroncelli 2011 Dry Rosé of Zinfandel wine. Accented with crisp acidity that makes the fruit abv: 13.4% Price: $19 (Dry Creek Valley). This darkly colored blush brisk and clean, it has appealing flavors of strawberries, 84 may be technically dry, like the label says, but it tastes as oranges and limes, with the yeasty sourness of a fine Amador Foothill Winery 2011 Rosato of sweet as raspberry Kool-Aid. If you like that fruity style, sparkling wine. —S.H. Sangiovese (Amador County). Amador 89 it’s for you. —S.H. abv: 13.3% Price: $70 Foothill Winery makes a tasty version of this every year. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 The 2011 is a standout for its pure watermelon flavor, Schramsberg 2007 Brut (Carneros). With and its fragrant and flowery composure. Balanced and Lange Twins 2011 Estate Grown Sangio- a touch of sweetness, this brut is made from dry, it has the right amount of spice tones on the finish. 92 vese Rosé (Lodi). Dark plum in color, this about 75% Chardonnay and 25% Pinot Noir. It’s rich Best Buy. —V.B. 83 rosé made from Sangiovese grapes tastes like a mix of in strawberry, lime, orange and raspberry flavors, with a abv: 13.5% Price: $13 strawberry and raspberry. It’s lighthearted in power but savory yeastiness. The tiny bubbles are the signature of big on oak. —V.B. a top-notch sparkling wine. Drink now. —S.H. Virage 2011 Rosé of Cabernet Franc abv: 12.8% Price: $13 abv: 12.7% Price: $70 89 (Napa Valley). This is a solid rosé. It’s bone dry and crisp, with easy-to-like flavors of raspberry, pink Schramsberg 2001 Late Disgorged Blanc grapefruit, rosehip tea and white pepper. It’s rich and 92 de Blancs (North Coast). This shows the meaty on the midpalate, and the finish is dry. A versatile

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 CABERNET SAUVIGNON Lokoya 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount upy, which raises the question of its ageability. Due to 94 Veeder). Bitter tannins lock this wine down in its tight tannins and firm minerality, try this after 2015. Cardinale 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon mouth-numbing astringency. Below the tannins is in- Cellar Selection. —S.H. 97 (Napa Valley). Another fabulous Cardina- credibly pure fruit, by way of blackberry and plum fla- abv: 14.3% Price: $70 le, better than the 2007 but short of the perfect 2006. vors. It has firm minerality, like a lick of stone, while oak This is so complete; it tastes like Cabernet on a cloud, aging brings its own flavor profile as well as additional Krutz 2008 Stagecoach Vineyard Caber- light but ethereal, with ripe, polished blackberry and wood tannins. This is nowhere near ready, so give it at 93 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A fine Caber- cherry flavors and touches of mocha, spice and cedar. least eight years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. net, showing a noble structure of tannins and acids, with The tannins are a wonder—soft and pliant—yet gor- abv: 14.9% Price: $350 concentrated mountain fruit expected from this vine- geously complex. Drink now−2016, at least. —S.H. yard. Delicious in blackberry and cassis flavors, it shows Lokoya 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (How- abv: 14.5% Price: $250 minerality that lends firmness. Drinkable now, it should 94 ell Mountain). The style of this wine may not develop bottle nuance over the next eight years. —S.H. Celani Family Vineyards 2008 Ardore be for everyone, but there’s no doubt that it’s a great abv: 14.8% Price: $75 success for its type. Dry and full bodied, it shows in- Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Young 96 tensely concentrated blackberry, cassis and mineral fla- and succulent, this is fresh, with ripe flavors of blackber- Laird 2008 Mast Ranch Cabernet Sauvi- vors, wrapped into huge, thick tannins. This absolute- gnon (Napa Valley). ries, cassis, chocolate and herb, with a toasty overlay of 93 Ripe, flashy fruit and ly requires aging; begin drinking it in 2016, but even substantial oak mark this wine, with evident tannins. oak. Powerful, but not overbearing, this shows an inter- then, it will be just starting to mellow. Cellar Selec- It shows terrific, concentrated flavors of blackberry, nal coherence that lifts it to a high level of elegant com- tion. —S.H. cherry, currant and dark chocolate that are rich and plexity. As good as it is, it will benefit from 8−12 years in abv: 15.1% Price: $350 satisfying. It’s soft enough to drink now, but will benefit a proper cellar. —S.H. from 6−8 years in the cellar. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $195 Lokoya 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.8% Price: $70 94 (Spring Mountain). This shows the tightly Laird 2009 Flat Rock Ranch Cabernet knit tannins of Spring Mountain, and is unapologetic Neal Family 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review 95 about them, demanding that you cellar this wine. It’s (Napa Valley). A terrific Cabernet, this is rich see page 3. Cellar Selection. 93 very finely constructed, with brisk acidity and a firm, and sophisticated, showing the classic proportions of the abv: 14.8% Price: $80 grounding minerality below the intensely concentrat- fabulous 2007 vintage. Dry and smooth in tannins, this ed core of blackberry and cassis flavors. It should hit its is packed with flavors of berry, currant, spice and smoky Ridge 2009 Estate Monte Bello Vineyard stride in 8−10 years and go for well beyond that. Cellar 95 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Moun- cedar, leading to a long, satisfying finish. Hold and allow Selection. —S.H. it to develop over the next six years. Editors’ Choice. tains). Packed with blackberry and crème de cassis, abv: 14.9% Price: $350 this also has firm minerality. With the weight of the —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 middle palate and the long, spicy finish, it’s especially Sherwin Family 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- attractive. Pretty tannic and astringent in its youth, this gnon (Spring Mountain). 94 There’s a deca- Plumpjack 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet-Merlot blend is classic Monte Bello. It needs dence to this Cabernet that’s just addictive. It’s soft, vel- (Oakville). Another outstanding Cabernet Cellar Selection. vety and delicious, offering ripe waves of mashed red 93 time, and should age for 20 years. from PlumpJack. It’s full bodied and ripe in blackberry cherries, chocolate, bacon and anise, with a fabulously —S.H. and cherry fruit, with an almond-honey note from the abv: 13.8% Price: $40 long, spicy finish. Drink it over the next six years. —S.H. oak. Firm tannins and keen acidity give balance to the abv: 15.1% Price: $90 richness. Wonderful to drink now and through 2017 or Snowden 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- so. —S.H. gnon (Napa Valley). This Cabernet takes its Tayson Pierce 2008 Cuvée Rothschild 95 abv: 14.8% Price: $90 place among Napa’s top tier. Bone dry and nobly struc- 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. tured, it shows firm tannins and bracing acidity, framing Seavey 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa abv: 14.6% Price: $75 classic blackberry and currant flavors. Should come into 93 Valley). Although there’s a powerful mass of its own after 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Coho 2009 Summitville Vine Ranch Cab- ripe blackberry essence in this Cabernet, it’s also very abv: 15% Price: $80 93 ernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). A strong in tannins. Feels vital, vigorous and muscular, with plenty of sculpted elegance—like a prize fighter in Darioush 2008 Signature Cabernet Sau- first-class Cabernet, this is dry, richly tannic and mouth- training. It needs some time to come around; drink after vignon (Napa Valley). This tastes fresh and wateringly tart in acidity. It shows savory blackberry and 94 2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H. juicy, like ripe blackberries picked on a hot summer day. cherry flavors, while the oak gives it an umami tang of smoke. Drink now−2016. —S.H. abv: 15.3% Price: $95 The fruitiness disappears in a swirl of tannins and oak abv: 14.8% Price: $55 spice, leading to a long, dry finish. Fine, complex and Snowden 2009 The Ranch Cabernet Sau-

elegant, this should develop over the next 8−10 years. Hewitt 2008 Estate Grown Cabernet Sau- 93 vignon (Napa Valley). Very dry, by modern Cellar Selection. —S.H. 93 vignon (Rutherford). Ripe and creamy, this standards, and while there’s a noble core of blackberrry abv: 14.5% Price: $80 has a toffee flavor from its barrel aging. The fruit veers and currant flavors, there’s also terrific minerality—as if toward ripe summer red cherries and blackberries. For- the dirt had been set afire and liquified. The firm tan- Lokoya 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Dia- ward and brash now—this is still young. Give it until nins make this Cabernet-based blend hard. With such mond Mountain). Made in the Lokoya style, 94 2016 or so to begin developing bottle complexity. Cel- great structure, it’s a likely cellar candidate. Drink after which is darkly colored, full bodied, tannic and dense lar Selection. —S.H. 2015. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. in mountain fruit. A spicy oak tone joins with massive abv: 14.8% Price: $85 abv: 14.4% Price: $40 blackberry, cassis and violet flavors to make this wine delicious from the start. It’s very tannic and needs a J. Davies 2009 Jack & Jamie’s Block Cade 2008 Cuvée Cabernet Sauvignon great deal of time. Begin to enjoy this wine in 2016, 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Moun- 92 (Napa Valley). Firm tannins mark this young and it should go far longer than that. Cellar Selection. tain). This nearly 100% Cabernet explodes with clas- Cabernet, as well as a dense girding of minerals. To- —S.H. sic aromas and flavors of black currant, chocolate and gether with the dryness, these make it fairly austere. abv: 14.6% Price: $350 smoky new oak. In its youth, it’s a bit heavy and syr- But a molten core of spicy blackberry flavor bodes well

WineMag.com | 25 for the future. Cellar until at least 2018. Cellar Selec- caramel, with soft, luscious tannins providing structure. lovely, dense and ripe, and the acidity is just right. This tion. —S.H. It finishes with a fine, firm minerality, like a lick of lead is quite opulent. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $60 pencil. Drink now−2018. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $72 abv: 14.7% Price: $135 Darioush 2009 Caravan Cabernet Sauvi- Arns 2007 Estate Grown Cabernet Sau- 92 gnon (Napa Valley). Soft and luscious, this Celani Family Vineyards 2008 Cab- 89 vignon (Napa Valley). This has big tannins Cabernet has a melted fruit quality, like cherry pie fill- 91 ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For- and primary blackberry-jam flavors, with a cut of acid- ing, with a scoop of vanilla and coffee ice cream. Tasty, ward in cherry and blackberry jam flavors, this ity. Everything’s bold and aggressive, reminiscent of an but beyond that is great structure and bones. Drink this Cabernet has been generously oaked, giving it a old-fashioned Napa Cabernet—except for the alcohol, wine by 2015. —S.H. buttered-toast smokiness. It’s soft and mellow, making it which is high. Yet all indications are of an ager. Give abv: 14.5% Price: $42 drinkable now. —S.H. it 6−8 years and see what happens. Cellar Selection. abv: 15.1% Price: $80 —S.H. JD 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond abv: 14.9% Price: $85 92 Mountain). JD is a sort of second label for J. Laird 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Davies, which in turn is Schramsberg’s top-tier Caber- 91 Valley). This is densely packed with ripe pri- Corison 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa net. The JD ’09 is a very fine wine; it’s intense and con- mary fruit, oak and tannins, it’s practically undrink- 89 Valley). Corison’s Cabernets are always tight in centrated in cassis, with a lovely tannins that scour and able now. Tastes tough despite a molten core of spicy youth, and this ’09 is made in that tough, tannic style. plenty of new French oak to give it a toasty fanciness. blackberry and iron flavors. All indications point to its It’s bone dry, with subtle flavors of blackberry, red cur- Drink now−2015. —S.H. ageability. Give this 6−8 years to soften and mellow. rant and dusty earth, with a coating of smoky cedar. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Cellar Selection. —S.H. Give it 4−5 years in the cellar. Tasted twice. Cellar Se- abv: 14.8% Price: $54 lection. —S.H. Maldonado 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 13.6% Price: $70 92 (Napa Valley). Just delicious, this offers a Sciandri Family 2007 Cabernet Sauvi- flood of ripe, jammy blackberries and cherries. Be- gnon (Coombsville). For full review see Porter Family Vineyards 2007 Cabernet yond the richness is superb structure, with refined tan- 91 page 7. 89 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A bit rough and nins, a floor of minerality and keen acidity. Good as it is abv: 14.4% Price: $54 gritty in tannins, this has a stickiness that pins the fruit now, the wine should profit with 6−8 years in the cel- to the tongue. But it has elaborate fruit, with ripe and lar. —S.H. Cade 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (How- showy blackberry and cassis flavors. It might gain an abv: 14.5% Price: $65 90 ell Mountain). This has flavors of raspberry extra point or two over the next six years. —S.H. and cherry pie that are liberally enhanced with toasty, abv: 15.1% Price: $76 Sciandri Family 2006 Cabernet Sauvi- creamy oak. It’s structure of tannins and acids is classy gnon (Coombsville). This Coombsville- 92 and easy to like. —S.H. Rahn 2008 Mountain Cabernet Sauvi- grown 100% Cabernet is just beginning to lose its pri- abv: 15.2% Price: $72 gnon (Napa Valley). The grapes are obvi- mary bottle characteristic and develop secondary ones. 89 ously well grown, judging from the fine, ripe black cur- The flavors of blackberries and cherries are drying out, Frank Family 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon rant flavor—not to mention the smooth tannins. This turning subtle and leathery, leaving a rich palate of mo- (Napa Valley). A very well-constructed Cab- shows lots of class and complexity, leading to a seem- cha and wood spice. It seems on a nice glidepath to 90 ernet that’s dry, firm in tannins and classic in blackber- ingly sweet finish. It seems at its best in youth, so drink gradually transform over the next six years. —S.H. ry, black currant and cedar flavors. Luscious and rich, it abv: 14.4% Price: $54 by 2014. —S.H. treads a fine line between a wine to drink now and one abv: 14.6% Price: $55 Seavey 2009 Caravina Cabernet Sauvi- to age; drink now−2015. —S.H. Sterling 2009 Vintner’s Collection Cab- gnon (Napa Valley). Rich acidity and dense abv: 14.5% Price: $50 92 ernet Sauvignon (Central Coast). tannins lock this Cabernet in a veil of toughness—de- 89 A well- Honig 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa spite its flashy, elaborate black currant, dark choco- constructed Cabernet that offers lots of high-quality Valley). late and cedar flavors. The dryness and elegant bal- 90 This shows classic Napa Cabernet fla- pleasure. It feels smooth and velvety, with firm tannins ance strongly suggest its ageability. This could really be vors of ripe blackberries and black currants, with a nice supporting ripe flavors of blackberry, currant and cedar. something around 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H. herbaceousness and a balanced overlay of toasty oak. It’s With it’s high production, this should be relatively easy abv: 15.3% Price: $55 pretty tannic now, although it’s still enjoyable. It should to find. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. gain bottle complexities over the next six years or so. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Storybook Mountain 2007 SEPS Reserve —S.H. 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A lus- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Antica 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa cious Cabernet, impressive for the sheer power of its 88 Valley). This is dry and rich in blackberry jam fruit. Delivers wave after wave of flavors of ripe black- Longboard 2009 Redgrav Vineyard Cab- flavors. Right now it’s fierce in tannins and acidity, mak- berry, cherry, cassis and plum sauce spiciness. The tan- 90 ernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). This ing it tough and resistant in feeling. Give it several nins are intricate, yet soft and easy. It is just beginning bone-dry Cabernet is made in a leaner style, bearing fla- hours in a before serving, or else hold it for to turn the corner, picking up bottle-age notes. Drink vors of sour cherry candy, cocoa and red currant, with 4−5 years. —S.H. it now, with a great steak, and over the next six years or the smoky spiciness from oak barrel aging. It’s also quite abv: 14.1% Price: $55 so. —S.H. acidic. This needs a big, rich cut of meat to balance it abv: 14.7% Price: $85 out. —S.H. Arns 2008 Estate Grown Cabernet Sau- abv: 13.9% Price: $50 88 vignon (Napa Valley). With sharp acidity Tayson Pierce 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon and pungent black currant, plum and raisin flavors, this 92 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 6. Markham 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon muscular Cabernet is probably best to drink now. It’s abv: 14.6% Price: $65 90 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 8. an interesting wine, with a spicy, tannic finish. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $37 abv: 14.5% Price: $85 Buccella 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 91 (Napa Valley). Richly layered and impressive, Oakville Ranch 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- Avalon 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali- this is made in a fruit-forward, oaky style. The black- 90 gnon (Oakville). A bit over the top in flavors 88 fornia). For full review see page 10. Best Buy. berry and cassis flavors are wrapped in tiers of toast and of pie fillng, black raspberry and cherry. The tannins are abv: 13.8% Price: $12

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 Hunter III 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Domaine Chandon 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- tringent wine, already beginning to dry out. Hard to see 88 (Napa Valley). Hard tannins lock this Cab- 87 gnon (Napa Valley). Here’s a big, gutsy Cab the fruit outlasting the tannins, so drink up. —S.H. ernet down. It’s dry and deeply flavored in blackber- from bubbly specialist Chandon. It’s dry and ripe, with abv: 14.1% Price: $50 ries, black currants and plums. So, will the fruit outlast a blackberry jam flavor. This finishes long and spicy. the tannins? Maybe, but there’s touch of overripeness. Drink now-2015. —S.H. Olema 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (So- —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 86 noma County). Dry and robust, this has tan- abv: 14.5% Price: $75 nins that scour, giving a rough edge to the blackberry Donati 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Pa- fruit. —S.H. Jigar 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 87 icines). Dry and crisp, this is elegant, with a abv: 14.5% Price: $20 88 (Sonoma County). There are lots of silky mouthfeel carrying flavors of sour blackberry can- well-developed blackberry, currant and tobacco flavors dy and cranberrys. It has a certain complexity that’s Red Table Cellars 2006 Mountain Caber- in this Cabernet. It’s dry and complex, with spice and pleasurable. —S.H. 86 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A big, fruity cedar overtones. The tannins are a bit jagged, so drink it abv: 14.3% Price: $20 Cabernet that hardly shows a day of age at nearly six with rustic grilled meats and stews. —S.H. years. It’s still rich and ripe in blackberry, blueberry and abv: 14.5% Price: $24 Hobo 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexan- cherry jam flavors. Drink up. —S.H. 87 der Valley). This has scouring tannins, but it abv: 13.8% Price: $25 Mount Veeder 2007 Reserve Cabernet offers plenty of ripe, savory blackberry, cherry and herb 88 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Tough and gritty flavors. There’s a rusticity about this Cab that calls for Beaulieu Vineyard 2010 Coastal Estates in tannins, this Cabernet is still raw. There’s a flatter- lusty beef dishes, like peppered steak. —S.H. 85 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Ripe in ing core of ripe blackberry and black currant fruits, but abv: 13.2% Price: $22 blackberries and cherries, this affordable Cabernet has the wine doesn’t show the approachability of other 2007 an edge of toasty oak. It’s an easy wine to drink now, at Cabernets. Give it another five years in the cellar, but no Jade Mountain 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- a good price. —S.H. guarantees that the fruit will outlast the tannins. —S.H. 87 gnon (Napa County-Lake County). With a abv: 13.5% Price: $11 abv: 14.5% Price: $80 soft, velvety mouthfeel, this bi-county Cabernet offers lush blackberry, blueberry, chocolate and spice flavors Bumgarner 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (El Newton 2009 Unfiltered Cabernet Sauvi- that are gently touched by smoky oak. This earns extra 85 Dorado). This is a big, almost overpowering 88 gnon (Napa Valley). Young and strong now, points for elegance and sipability. —S.H. Cab that has mint and cedar streaks running through its this has lots of primary berry and chocolate flavors. The abv: 13.9% Price: $13 classic cassis flavor. —V.B. oak hasn’t been integrated into the wine, making it feel abv: 14.2% Price: $39 rustic, with an emphasis on the tannins and acids. Give Keenan 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa it two or three years before opening, but not much more 87 Valley). Lots of ripe, rich blackberry, black cur- Pine Ridge 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon than that. —S.H. rant and blueberry flavors compose this dry, full-bodied 85 (Napa Valley). Ripe and fruity, this has an oak abv: 14.5% Price: $60 Cabernet. It’s very good, although the rough edges will flavor that overshadows the blackberries and currants. never age out. Drink now. —S.H. —S.H. Rahn 2009 Mountain Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 14.3% Price: $49 abv: 14.1% Price: $54 88 gnon (Napa Valley). This has classic black- berry and black currant flavors that linger onto the long Kendall-Jackson 2009 Vintner’s Reserve Sextant 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso finish. Thoroughly dry, it’s a nice wine to drink now, but 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). 85 Robles). Soft in blackberry, cherry and choco- its soft structure limits its ageability. —S.H. This has polished blackberry and black currant flavors, late flavor, this is a simple Cabernet, but it’s not with- abv: 14.6% Price: $55 touched with oak. It shows real elegance and class. out charm. Furry tannins give it a much needed bite. —S.H. —S.H. Smith-Madrone 2006 Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: 14.4% Price: $20 88 gnon (Spring Mountain). Made in a leaner style than many Napa Valley Cabernets, this shows lots Kenefick Ranch 2008 Chris’s Cuvée Cab- Trentadue 2009 La Storia Estate Caber- of blackberry and cherry fruit. If you enjoy wines with 87 ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A bit high 85 net Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). A soft structured elegance, this could be for you. —S.H. in alcohol, this has blackberry and mocha flavors that Cabernet, this brims with granola-bar-like flavors of abv: 14.2% Price: $45 are overripe, veering into sweet-prune territory. Drink blackberry, roasted almond and brown sugar. —S.H. now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Amici 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa abv: 15.5% Price: $60 87 Valley). There’s a spicy, tobacco-y earthiness Truchard 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon behind the blackberry and cherry flavors. It’s dry and Cinnabar 2009 Indian Valley Vineyard 85 (Carneros). This is a bit thin on the palate, complex, but a bit rustic in the mouth, with some edgy 86 Cabernet Sauvignon (Monterey County). with flavors of sour black-cherry candy and spice. It tannins. Drink now. —S.H. This is tart and briary in the mouth, with less-than-ripe earns a few extra points for its elegance and fine tan- abv: 14.7% Price: $40 tannins and fruit. This has a decent blackberry flavor. nins. —S.H. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $38 Bumgarner 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (El abv: 14.5% Price: $38 87 Dorado). Bumgarner’s 2008 has a heady herb- Firefly Ridge 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon al aroma that wafts into espresso and dark chocolate. Cupcake 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon 84 (Central Coast). Dry, tannic and acidic, with This is a producer to watch in the El Dorado section of 86 (Central Coast). A nice, sophisticated Caber- proper flavors of blackberries and cherries. Perfectly the Sierra Foothills. —V.B. net to drink now Dry and crisp in acidity, it has a solid fine for drinking at parties. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $34 framework of tannins, giving structure to the blackberry abv: 13.4% Price: $10 and currant flavors. —S.H. Burly 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Murphy-Goode 2008 Dealer’s Choice 87 Valley). A big, bold Cabernet, with strong tan- 84 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). nins and oak that sticks out. It’s a bit overripe, with a iNapa Wine 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Ripe, full bodied and jammy, this is a simple, country- pruny edge to the blackberry and cassis flavors. Ready 86 (Atlas Peak). The tannins are tougher than style Cabernet, with berry-cherry flavors. —S.H. to drink. —S.H. almost anything out of Napa Valley today. Despite a abv: 14.5% Price: $26 abv: 14.6% Price: $60 hearty core of ripe blackberry flavor, it’s a tough and as-

WineMag.com | 27 Snap Dragon 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon complexities over the next 3−5 years, but it will always this has cherry and spice flavors. It’s reminiscent of an 84 (California). You get your money’s worth with remain rather tannic. —S.H. old-fashioned Chianti. —S.H. this Cabernet. It’s dry and richly textured, bearing fla- abv: 15.1% Price: $45 abv: 13.7% Price: $11 vors of blackberries, currants and prunes, with a seem- ingly sweet finish. —S.H. Donati 2008 Merlot (Paicines). This is Hacienda 2010 Merlot (California). Al- abv: 13.5% Price: $9 87 made in a delicate, acidic and bone dry style. 83 though it’s thin and simply constructed, it’s a dry Some will say it lacks richness—and it does, by Napa wine, with decent berry and mocha flavors. —S.H. Murphy-Goode 2010 Cabernet Sauvi- standards. But it’s quite an elegant wine, silky and light, abv: 12.5% Price: $9 82 gnon (California). This is simple, with raisin with a hint of blackberry and tobacco flavor. —S.H. and plum sauce flavors that finish dry. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 PETITE SIRAH Starmont 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). Envy 2009 Estate Petite Sirah (Calisto- 3 Steves Winery 2008 Reserve Cabernet Good, deep flavors of blackberries, currants and 87 ga). For full review see page 6. Cellar Selec- Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). This wine spices mark this dry wine. It has a coating of smoky new 91 80 tion. has very little going on aromatically and tastes slightly oak. The texture is a bit harsh, which is really its only mi- abv: 14.8% Price: $45 burnt. —V.B. nus. Otherwise, it’s a nice Merlot to drink now. —S.H. abv: 15.6% Price: $26 abv: 14.5% Price: $26 Trueheart 2009 Petite Sirah (Sonoma Val- ley). This is a big, hearty Petite Sirah, show- Heavyweight 2009 "Champ" Jim the Gent Dynamite Vineyards 2010 Merlot (North 90 ing class, elegance and power. Dry and softly tannic, it Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Exces- Coast). The winery continues a trend of fine, 80 86 has ripe flavors of blackberry, currant, bacon and cedar, sive sweetness mars this wine, making the blackberry everyday at an affordable price with this dry, sprinkled with black pepper. —S.H. flavors dull. —S.H. elegant 2009. It’s full-bodied and deeply flavored with abv: 14.9% Price: $35 abv: 13.9% Price: $14 black currants and plums. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $10 Miro 2010 Piccetti Vineyard Petite Sirah (Dry Creek Valley). Darkly colored and thick Kendall-Jackson 2009 Vintner’s Reserve 88 MERLOT in tannins, it’s a big wine, explosive in flavors of cherry, Merlot (Sonoma County). It should be easy Darioush 2008 Signature Merlot 86 blackberry and grilled meat. The alcohol is high, and to drink this sweetish Merlot with everything from a (Napa Valley). As lush and delicious as there are some pruny notes, but that’s part of its charm. 94 hamburger to a steak. It’s rich in cherry flavor, with lots Napa Merlot gets, this is stunningly with its flavor of —S.H. of palate-stimulating spices. —S.H. milk-chocolate-coated blackberries. The alcohol gives it abv: 14.9% Price: $28 abv: 13.5% Price: $19 an anisette liqueur burn, and oak aging contributes rich toast and wood spice notes. For all the upfront gener- Puccioni 2009 Petite Sirah (Dry Creek Longboard 2009 Dakine Vineyard Merlot osity, firm tannins and acids keep it balanced. —S.H. Valley). The label features an image of a kick- (Russian River Valley). A cut of minty acid- 86 abv: 14.5% Price: $46 86 ing mule, and it’s appropriate, for this is a kick-butt ity makes this dry Merlot sharp in the mouth, giving the wine. It’s strong, tannic and high in alcohol, and it won’t cherry and raspberry flavors a tart edge. Drink it now Coho 2009 Michael Black Merlot (Napa be shy about standing up to barbecue. —S.H. with a nice steak. —S.H. Valley). Lots of zippy acidity perks up the cher- abv: NA Price: $28 91 abv: NA Price: $27 ry candy and butterscotch flavors of this Merlot, mak- ing it delicious. Despite the overt fruit, it has layers of Cinnabar 2009 Solana Vineyards Petite Stubbs Vineyard 2006 Merlot (Marin minerals and dried herbs that lift its complexity. Drink Sirah (Paso Robles). Soft and simple, this County). This Merlot remains tight, tannic and 84 now−2015. —S.H. 86 has blackberry and chocolate flavors. There’s heat from acidic. Give it credit for elegant structure, but despite abv: 14.9% Price: $55 the very high alcohol. It’s a wine to drink now with bar- some good cherry fruit, it’s still a dour wine. —S.H. becue. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $38 Kenefick Ranch 2008 Estate Grown Mer- abv: 16.2% Price: $38 lot (Napa Valley). High alcohol and lots of 91 Fenestra 2007 Thatcher Bay Vineyard new oak bring a full-bodied sweetness to this Merlot. Tower 15 2009 Petite Sirah (Paso Ro- Merlot (Livermore Valley). A simple ren- Fortunately, the fruit is concentrated enough in cher- 85 bles). Simple and high in high alcohol, this dition of Merlot, with soft plum fruit and supple tan- 82 ries and blackberries to stand up to all that. The wine bears semiripe berry and spice flavors. There’s also a tug nins. Easy to drink and pair, this should make for a fine is tannic and dry and complex. Lovely to drink now, of boiled asparagus. —S.H. midweek wine with roast chicken or turkey meatloaf. it should develop for a few years, but it’s likely not a abv: 15.3% Price: $19 —V.B. longterm ager. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $19 abv: 15.2% Price: $42 Heavyweight 2010 "Champ" Lightnin’ Lane Petite Sirah (California). Distinctly Napa Cellars 2010 Merlot (Napa Valley). 81 Mayacamas 2007 Merlot (Mount Veeder). sweet, this is a simple wine, with jammy berry flavors. Tough and gritty in tannins and acidity, this Most California Merlots won’t age well, but this 85 —S.H. 91 lacks the generosity you expect from Merlot. It’s a good one should. It’s tightly wound with acids and tannins; abv: 13.7% Price: $14 wine, though, and strong meats and cheeses will coax it’s bone dry, with a controlled expression of cherries, out the berry flavor. —S.H. blackberries and minerals. Give it a spin in the cellar for abv: 14.5% Price: $18 five years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. PINOT NOIR abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Murphy-Goode 2010 Merlot (California). Rochioli 2010 West Block Pinot Noir Dry and firmly tannic, this has some pretty nice (Russian River Valley). We can quibble over Seavey 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). A big 84 96 berry, currant and spice flavors that are serviceable. whether the cherries are red or black, or if it’s persim- wine, this is front loaded with primary fruit fla- 91 —S.H. mons or pomegranates, or if the mushrooms are fresh vors of blackberries, plums, cola and black currants. abv: 13.7% Price: $15 or sautéed, but that’s the point. This wine is so complex, The tannins are significant, giving the wine a numbing it initiates discussion. Fine acidity and rich tannins pro- astringency. This seems likely to develop some bottle Beaulieu Vineyard 2010 Coastal Estates vide structure, and although the wine is silky enough to 83 Merlot (California). Dry, acidic and tannic,

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 enjoy now, you really want to give it 6–8 years. Cellar complexities kick in, suggesting earthy, foresty, miner- tify to its cool coastal origin. The grapes were grown in a Selection. —S.H. ally things that are almost mysterious in their brooding small vineyard close to the Pacific. You can taste the fog abv: 14.5% Price: $100 depths. Brisk acidity is an integral part of the equation. and wind that wind through the raspberry, cherry and It’s very fine now, and it could be a stunner in six years. cola flavors. Drink now−2015. —S.H. Siduri 2010 Hirsch Vineyard Pinot Noir —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $45 95 (Sonoma Coast). A brilliant Pinot Noir from abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Siduri; it’s arguably their best of the vintage so far. Failla 2010 Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir Made from the highly regarded Hirsch Vineyard, it has Goldeneye 2009 The Narrows Vineyard 92 (Russian River Valley). Keefer Ranch Pinots a delicate body that explodes with flavors of tart, wild 93 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Anderson Val- often start off brooding and tannic. Failla’s 2010 is mod- red berries, cola, baking spices and assorted forest-like ley). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. eled in this style, but it has enormous core flavors of notes—like pine needles, mushrooms and mulchy un- abv: 14.5% Price: $80 blackberry, soft cola and foresty things. This should re- dergrowth. Just gorgeous now, and it should hold and ward patience; hold until 2016, at least. Cellar Selec- develop over the next 6−8 years. —S.H. La Rochelle 2009 Dutton Ranch Camp- tion. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $50 93 bell Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River abv: 13.9% Price: $45 Valley). For full review see page 4. Failla 2010 Pearlessence Pinot Noir (So- abv: 14.2% Price: $48 Fog Crest 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Rus- 94 noma Coast). Estimating the ageability of a 92 sian River Valley). A big, bold Pinot Noir, this Pinot Noir can be tricky. This one, with hefty tannins, Rochioli 2010 Sweetwater Vineyard Pinot is filled with raspberry, cherry, pomegranate and per- Noir (Russian River Valley). brisk acidity and loads of fresh primary fruit, seems to 93 Forward, flashy simmon flavors. It’s a fruit store in the glass. Power is be ageworthy. Give it 5−6 years to let the structural ele- deliciousness is the signature of this wine, which comes a hallmark of Fog Crest Pinots, but the estate bottling, ments begin to resolve and for the flavors of blackberry from Rochioli’s youngest vineyard that was developed in also shows an elegant structure with its finely crafted the late 1990s. With pure, unobstructed raspberry and jam, Chinese tea, mushroom and spice to develop sec- tannins and vital acids For all of the fruit, the finish is cherry flavors, it’s balanced by fine acidity and gentle ondary characteristics. Cellar Selection. —S.H. thoroughly dry. This should provide interesting drinking abv: 13.8% Price: $42 tannins. Drink now−2018. —S.H. over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $72 abv: 14.7% Price: $49 Goldeneye 2009 Confluence Vineyard Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Anderson Val- Saintsbury 2009 Cerise Vineyard Pinot 94 Hanzell 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Valley). ley). For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. Noir (Anderson Valley). A commanding Pi- 93 For full review see page 5. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $80 not Noir that wants a little time in the cellar. It com- 92 abv: 14.5% Price: $95 bines power with finesse—the mark of a great wine. Goldeneye 2009 Ten Degrees Pinot Noir Dramatically packed with rich, ripe cherry, mocha and Ojai 2008 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot (Anderson Valley). For full review see page pie spice flavors, it’s young and sappy now. Give it 5−6 94 Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Shows the bal- 3. Cellar Selection. years to knit together. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 92 ance of a fine Bien Nacido Pinot Noir, and also the abv: 14.5% Price: $110 abv: 14.5% Price: $45 density and spiciness of the Santa Maria Valley. Strikes Goldeneye 2009 Gowan Creek Vineyard Saintsbury 2009 Toyon Farm Pinot Noir a middle zone between light elegance and heavy full-bodiedness, with rich flavors of black cherry, Dr. 94 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Anderson Val- 93 (Carneros). This showcases lovely, sappy ley). For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. cherry and raspberry flavors that are grounded and giv- Pepper, clove and black pepper flavors. Lovely now, abv: 14.5% Price: $80 en greater interest by a rich, mulchy earthiness and also and it should develop bottle complexity through 2016. a slight funkiness—like wild mushrooms pan-sautéed in —S.H. Rochioli 2010 Three Corner Pinot Noir bacon fat. Alluring and complex, it’s a Pinot Noir that abv: 14% Price: $40 94 (Russian River Valley). Three Corner is a will gain traction over the next six years. —S.H. Olson Ogden 2009 Manchester Ridge block in the estate vineyard that was planted in 1974. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 The 2010 is very rich and full bodied,—dramatically 92 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Mendocino). This so—packed with cherries and pomegranates and savory Sandhi 2010 Sanford & Benedict Pinot tremendous Mendocino wine is true to its California spices and minerals. The power reflects the vineyard’s 93 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills).For full review see page heritage, tasting of red cherry and spice, with a velvet- site in a warmer part of the valley. But the wine never 5. like texture and soft tannins. It’s ready to drink now, but loses sight of elegance, and, like all Rochioli’s vineyard- abv: 13% Price: $55 cellaring will further tame it. Cellar Selection. —V.B. designated Pinot Noirs, it is in need of age. Don’t even abv: 14.2% Price: $55 think of popping the cork before 2016, and the wine Arcadian 2007 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard should develop for many years afterward. Cellar Selec- 92 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). This Sandhi 2010 Evening Land Vineyard Pi- tion. —S.H. Pinot remains as tart in acids and hard in tannins as the 92 not Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Acidity is the domi- abv: 14.5% Price: $80 day it was bottled. It’s made in a leaner, less-ripe style nant factor in this Pinot. Tart and tingly, this is bone dry, than most Pinots these days, including most from the elegantly constructed and complex. It shows flavors of Saintsbury 2009 Stanly Ranch Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands. However, it’s just at the start of raspberry and cherry jam, cola, red licorice and sandal- 94 (Carneros). Incredibly dense and rich, this its journey. Give it another 5−6 years, and enjoy this as wood, and it should develop interestingly over the next just rocks with luscious aromas and flavors of cherry pie, it sheds fruit and picks up bottle bouquet. Cellar Se- eight years. —S.H. anise, mushroom and sandalwood. It feels so vital on the lection. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $90 palate, offering real complexity and intellectual interest, abv: NA Price: $45 as it reveals different aspects of its personality with each Goldeneye 2009 Pinot Noir (Anderson moment. Decant this beauty for an hour or so before Bratcher 2009 La Encantada Vineyard Pi- 91 Valley). For full review see page 6. serving. —S.H. 92 not Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see abv: 14.5% Price: $55 abv: 14.5% Price: $45 page 5. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.8% Price: $35 Inman Family 2008 Thorn Ridge Ranch Savannah-Chanelle 2009 Armagh Vine- 91 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Acidic 94 yard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Churchill Cellars 2009 Left Edge Pinot in its youth, this has a tart bite—like a squeeze of lem- This interesting Pinot immediately flatters with layers 92 Noir (Sonoma Coast). A racy, rich and vital on. The flavors are of cranberries, sour red cherry candy of ripe fruit, pie spice and sandalwood. Then the real Pinot Noir, whose tart acidity and delicate structure tes- and sandalwood. It feels noble and elegantly construct-

WineMag.com | 29 ed, but it needs time. Give it six years in the cellar. Cel- Arcadian 2007 Jill’s Cuvée Pinot Noir of dark red fruits, herbs and minerals. Hold until 2014. lar Selection. —S.H. 90 (Santa Lucia Highlands). Don’t look for Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $56 big, rich opulence in this wine, instead seek structural abv: 14% Price: $45 elegance and ageworthiness. Dry and modest in alco- Morgan 2010 Double L Vineyard Pinot hol, it shows flavors of sour cherry candy, tobacco, cola, Rochioli 2010 Little Hill Pinot Noir (Rus- 91 Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Marked by mineral and spice. Austerely tannic and tart now, it 90 sian River Valley). Charm marks this young a light, silky texture and notable acidity, this Pinot has wants a minimum of six years in the cellar. Cellar Se- Pinot Noir. It’s softly luscious and delicious in raspber- a rich core of raspberry and persimmon fruit. It’s a rich lection. —S.H. ry and cherry jam, cola and sandalwood flavors. The wine, elegant and complex, but it needs a little time for abv: 13.5% Price: $50 acid-tannin structure is just fine. It shows a candied the elements to knit together. Hold until 2015. Cellar directness now, but you may want to cellar it for 5–6 Selection. —S.H. Arcadian 2007 Pisoni Vineyard Pinot Noir years and see how it develops. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $50 90 (Santa Lucia Highlands). This might be one abv: 14.5% Price: $72 of the lightest Pisoni Pinot Noirs of the vintage. It swaps Olson Ogden 2009 Alder Springs Vine- the power normally associated with the vineyard for Saintsbury 2009 Pinot Noir (Carneros). 91 yard Pinot Noir (Mendocino). Dark in color, dryness and austerity. There’s a streak of cherry and 90 For full review see page 8. this is deliciously shy at first, with cherry and raspberry cola, but acidity and tannins swamp it. Defines a certain abv: 13.5% Price: $30 notes peeping out first, followed by an earthy, almost approach, one meant for the cellar. Try after 2015. Cel- minty roundness. The vineyard is known for its Rhône lar Selection. —S.H. Suacci Carciere Wines 2009 Suacci Vine- varieties, and this Pinot has a Syrah-like tinge of pep- abv: NA Price: $60 90 yard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). pery spice and bigness in the mouth. With further cel- The light, silky mouthfeel bears bright, citrusy acidity. laring or decanting, it will find its Pinot soul.Cellar Se- Cinnabar 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia It’s dry and elegant, like Pinot should be. The flavors are lection. —V.B. 90 Highlands). Lots to like in this polished, full- rich and forward in raspberries, cherries and spices. It’s abv: 14.4% Price: $65 bodied young Pinot Noir—especially the flavor. It’s ripe, a pretty Pinot Noir for drinking now. —S.H. with flavors of cherry pie filling and pomegranate and a abv: 13.4% Price: $45 Savannah-Chanelle 2009 Tina Marie rich earthiness. The framework of acids and tannins is 91 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- just fine. Drink now with lamb, tuna or steak entrées. Tolosa 2010 Marley Anne Pinot Noir ley). With flavors of cherry and raspberry sap, this is —S.H. 90 (Edna Valley). Pale, light bodied and tart in a syrupy young wine made brisk by keen acidity. Oak abv: 14.5% Price: $42 acidity, this polished young wine defines the Edna Val- adds to the impression of sweetness, with a buttered ley style. With raspberry and cherry flavors, it will ap- toast and caramelized richness. As delicious as a pastry Fog Crest 2010 Laguna West Pinot Noir peal to fans of more delicately structured Pinot Noirs. tart now, but try giving it 4−5 years to gain some bottle 90 (Russian River Valley). The Fog Crest bot- —S.H. notes. —S.H. tling is a blend of various vineyards. It’s a dependable abv: 13.9% Price: $50 abv: 14.4% Price: $50 wine that can approach the Estate bottling in richness— although it never quite gets there. The 2010 is ripe, Churchill Cellars 2009 Bella Luna Vine- Savannah-Chanelle 2009 Tondre’s bearing raspberry and cherry flavors. Drink now. —S.H. 89 yard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). 91 Grapefield Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High- abv: 14.5% Price: $39 The main thing about this Pinot Noir is the richness. It’s lands). This is enormously extracted, bearing ripe, bold and sumptuous, with flavors of raspberries, cher- flashy cherry, raspberry and blackberry fruit, with all Gary Farrell 2009 Russian River Selec- ries, pomegranates, persimmons and cola, accented by kinds of chocolaty, spicy, mushroomy complexities. 90 tion Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For oak and brightened by brisk acidity. With its delicious The richness is balanced by the wine’s absolute dryness full review see page7. finish, it’s a pretty wine to drink now. —S.H. and tart acidity, with a fuzzy edge of tannins. Clearly abv: 14.1% Price: $42 abv: 14.5% Price: $45 a well-grown wine, although it’s a bit scattered now in its youth. Give it 5−6 years in the cellar. Cellar Selec- Kessler-Haak 2009 Kessler-Haak Vine- Graton Ridge 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian tion. —S.H. 90 yard Clone 2A Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). 89 River Valley). With a gentle, silky texture, this abv: 14.5% Price: $45 A lovely, delicate Pinot Noir, with vibrant acidity that is a lovely Pinot Noir to drink now. Tart acidity gives the creates a searing cut across the palate and into the fin- cherry and pomegranate flavors a sour candy savoriness. Viszlay Vineyards 2010 Estate Bottled ish. Bone dry, with subtle flavors of cranberry and sour Elegant and charming, it’s a nice partner for steak, lamb 91 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Lots of cherry, it needs food. Try with ahi tuna, either tartare or chops, grilled tuna. —S.H. classy Russian River character is found in this Pinot. It’s grilled, or beef carpaccio. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 dry, full bodied and filled with rich black-cherry, cola abv: 13.9% Price: $45 and spice flavors. The tannins are fine, and the acidity is Inman Family 2008 Olivet Grange Vine- brisk, making the wine feel balanced. Might even gain La Crema 2009 9 Barrel Pinot Noir (Rus- 89 yard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). traction over the next 2−3 years. —S.H. 90 sian River Valley). Nicely dry, with a tart cut Tough in acidity and tannins, this Pinot is notable for abv: 14.6% Price: $32 of citrusy acidity that cleanses the mouth and would cer- its structure rather than its opulence. There’s an earthy, tainly cut through the fattiness of lamb or beef dishes. mushroomy edge to the concentrated black-cherry and Arcadian 2007 Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot It’s tannic, too, with a good stuffing of cherries. Hard to cola flavors. You can drink it now if you want, but it 90 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). By Fiddlestix Vineyard know where it’s going in the future, so drink up over the should mellow with a few years in the cellar. —S.H. or even by coastal California Pinot Noir standards, this next few years. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $56 Pinot is light in body, tart, tannic and austere. It avoids abv: 14.4% Price: $90 lush immediacy in favor of extreme dryness and fruit Judson Hale Winery 2010 Walsh Vine- that’s subtle—only suggesting flavors of cherry and cola. Ojai 2008 Fe Ciega Vineyard Pinot Noir 89 yard Pinot Noir (Yorkville Highlands). What is apparent is its minerality and earthiness. Com- 90 (Sta. Rita Hills). This bottling by the fine pro- Abounding with a Bing cherry flavor and a depth of plex and indifferent to today’s taste for sweet fruit, this ducer Ojai always starts life out hard and dry in tannins. earthy goodness, this new Mendocino County Pinot wine wants some time to develop. Best after 2015. Cel- The ’08 is no different. It’s less rich than the 2005, or Noir is austere in character, with a light touch of oak. Its lar Selection. —S.H. the 2006, but is built along similar lines, with a stuffing soft and lush, with refined acidity. —V.B. abv: NA Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $35

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 Kessler-Haak 2009 Kessler-Haak Vine- deliciousness. There is a certain sylishness tannins and Sanglier Cellars 2010 Pinot Noir (Rus- 89 yard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Made in acids, courtesy of its Arroyo Grande origins. Drink now. 87 sian River Valley). Brisk acidity brightens the the winery’s style of dry elegance, this lovely Pinot Noir —S.H. cherry flavor in this clean, dry Pinot Noir. The fruit is shows rich cherry, pomegranate, cola and mineral fla- abv: 14.3% Price: $40 young and sappy. If you drink it now, decant it for a few vors. It’s fairly full bodied, and it feels young and tough hours. Otherwise, give it a year or two. —S.H. in tannins and acids. Give it some decanting and drink Lagniappe 2009 Hayley Vineyard Pinot abv: 14.1% Price: $36 now. —S.H. 88 Noir (Anderson Valley). Made in a lighter abv: 14.3% Price: $40 style, this Pinot is as easy to toss back as a glass of cherry Beaulieu Vineyard 2010 Coastal Estates cola. It’s delicious and savory, for drinking now. —S.H. 86 Pinot Noir (California). Hats off to Beaulieu McIntyre Vineyards 2010 Estate Pinot abv: 14.3% Price: $55 for producing a Pinot Noir this good. The wine is dry, 89 Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). A brisk Pi- silky and crisp in acidity, with cherry, cola, spice and not Noir—it’s rich in citrusy acidity that gets the mouth Longboard 2010 Flying Rooster Vineyard sandalwood flavors. With more than 100,000 cases re- watering. The flavors are fresh and young, suggesting 88 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Combines rich leased, this should be relatively easy to find. Best Buy. raspberry and cherry jam, with a strong note of smoky flavors of blackberry, black cherry and cola onto and a —S.H. oak. All indications are that this wine is too young now full-bodied palate, with crisp acidity and some unevenly abv: 13% Price: $11 and will age for 5–6 years, mellowing but not necessar- ripened fruit, which results in rusticity. It’s a big wine to ily gaining complexity. Cellar Selection. —S.H. drink now with tuna, lamb and steak. —S.H. Coho 2009 Stanly Ranch Pinot Noir (Los abv: 14.2% Price: $38 abv: 14.3% Price: $42 86 Carneros). Tannic and dry, this turns twiggy and earthy on the finish. There’s a burst of acid-inspired Poetic Cellars 2008 Pinot Noir (Santa McIntyre Vineyards 2008 Mission Ranch black-cherry flavor on the midpalate. —S.H. 89 Cruz Mountains). For full review see page 8. 88 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Arroyo Seco). This abv: 14.6% Price: $45 abv: 14.2% Price: $32 Pinot, from a cool corner of Monterey County, remains brisk in acidity and quite tannic. It has a great structure, Jenner 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Saintsbury 2009 Lee Vineyard Pinot Noir with a solid core of cherry and red currant flavor, but 86 Give this wine a brief decant, to let some off (Carneros). 89 An easy Pinot to drink now, this it sure is tough. You might want to give it another 3–4 notes breathe away. The flavors are fine and dry, sug- shows cherry, raspberry and bacon flavors that are years. —S.H. gesting sour cherry candy and Dr. Pepper that are wrapped in a silky texture and highlighted by tart acid- abv: 14.5% Price: $36 brightened with vital acids. —S.H. ity. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Suacci Carciere Wines 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This is opulent, dry Miro 2010 Floodgate Vineyard Pinot Noir Savannah-Chanelle 2009 Gunsalus Vine- 88 and full bodied, with a rich network of tannins framing 86 (Russian River Valley). A big, ripe, fruity yard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). 89 ripe flavors of cherries, red currants and sandalwood. Pinot Noir, this is basically an orchard in a glass, with A strongly flavored Pinot, this has plenty of saturated Subtle trace notes of greenness suggest it’s not an ager; flavors of raspberries, cherries, persimmons and more. cherry-jam fruit. Tart acidity and some chili pepper heat drink now. —S.H. Beyond that, it’s dry and soft. Drink now. —S.H. from the alcohol contribute to the mouthfeel, while oak abv: 13.5% Price: $28 abv: 14.1% Price: $29 brings a toast note. This is likely to be best over the next few years. —S.H. A By Acacia 2010 Pinot Noir (California). Truchard 2009 Pinot Noir (Carneros). Dry abv: 14.7% Price: $50 This high-production Pinot shows good varietal and silky, this has pleasant cherry, sandalwood 85 88 flavors of red cherry candy, cola and spices. It feels com- and spice flavors. It earns an extra point or two for its Stubbs Vineyard 2007 Estate Grown Pi- mon, with a simple finish. —S.H. elegance. Ready to drink now. —S.H. not Noir (Marin County). Made using grapes abv: 13.5% Price: $15 89 abv: 14.1% Price: $35 from the emerging wine region of Marin County, this Pinot has a transluscent garnet color. The flavors are in- Garnet 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). A Laetitia 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Arroyo tense, veering toward red berries and stone fruits, with solid everyday Pinot, this is dry, tart in acidity Grande Valley). This vigorous wine shows the 85 keen acidity. There’s a similarity to the Pinot Noirs of 87 and silky in texture, with cranberry and pomegranate strong flavors that Laetitia Pinot Noirs most always dis- Edna Valley, another cool coastal growing area. —S.H. flavors. —S.H. play. It’s powerfully ripe, with flavors of cherry, rhubarb abv: 13.6% Price: $44 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 pie, pomegranate and spicy persimmon. Full bodied, Tolosa 2010 1772 Pinot Noir (Edna Val- with pronounced acids and tannins, this offers plenty of Testarossa 2010 Cuvée 107 Pinot Noir 89 ley). Shows the tart acidity and laser-like fruit generosity. —S.H. 85 (Santa Barbara County). Heavy and seem- purity of Edna Valley wines, with intense raspberry, abv: 14.1% Price: $25 ingly sweet, this has the taste of black raspberry syrup cherry and oak flavors. A bit direct now, with every- and melted red licorice. —S.H. Lagniappe 2009 Split Rock Vineyard Pi- thing flashing on the surface, but it could develop funky, abv: 14.4% Price: $18 earthy complexities in 6–7 years. —S.H. 87 not Noir (Sonoma Coast). A little too soft abv: 14% Price: $52 and gentle for a Sonoma Coast Pinot, this lacking some Alderbrook 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian dynamism, but there’s no denying the deliciousness. It 84 River Valley). While it lacks some generosity, Bratcher 2009 Jane Madison Pinot Noir offers lush waves of raspberry and cherry purée, mocha there are enough cherry and cola flavors to get by. The 88 (Santa Maria Valley). If this were a Burgun- and anise liqueur that are easy to love. —S.H. finish is dry and tart in acidity. —S.H. dy, it would be a villages-style wine. It is rich in fruit, abv: 14.2% Price: $55 abv: 14.2% Price: $32 spice and mineral flavors that are housed in a lightly silky texture. With a lovely typicity of its appellation, it’s McIntyre Vineyards 2010 Estate Block 3 La Crema 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma meant for drinking now. —S.H. 87 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Pours 84 Coast). A villages-style Pinot, this has a mouth- abv: 14% Price: $30 atypically dark for a Pinot Noir, and the color is reflect- feel that scours, with flavors of sour cherry candy, cola ed in the mouth, where the wine turns as heavy and full- and sandalwood flavors. —S.H. Laetitia 2010 Reserve du Domaine Pinot bodied as Grenache. It’s a good wine, hearty and flavor- abv: 13.9% Price: $25 88 Noir (Arroyo Grande Valley). A bit heavy for ful in berries and cola, but lacks Pinot Noir’s signature Pinot Noir, this has extracted red-berry, cola and mo- delicacy. —S.H. Garnet 2010 Pinot Noir (Monterey Coun- cha flavors. It lacks finesse, but makes up for it in sheer abv: 14.1% Price: $46 83 ty). An off-note of burnt rubber mars this oth-

WineMag.com | 31 erwise good wine. It’s silky and dry, with a flavor of sour for everyone, but lays claim to the lush, opulent style. Napa—supple and intricate—while the acidity provides cherry candy. —S.H. —S.H. a deft touch of tartness. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 15.7% Price: $75 abv: 14.5% Price: $45

Murphy-Goode 2010 Pinot Noir (Cali- Dutton-Goldfield 2009 Dutton Ranch Ojai 2009 Syrah (Santa Barbara County). 83 fornia). A bit thin on the palate, this has good 91 Cherry Ridge Vineyard Syrah (Russian 89 Dry and full-bodied, this has deep, satisfying cherry and oak flavors. The texture leaves something to River Valley). Bone dry, acidic and tough in tannins, flavors of blackberry, currant, licorice, bacon and san- be desired. —S.H. this also has a deep core of blackberry fruit, with a love- dalwood. Its tannins are a bit rough and unlikely to age, abv: 13.9% Price: $15 ly coating of oak. Notable for balance and elegance, it but it should pair well now with steaks and beef stews. wants some time in the cellar. Drink around 2015. Cel- —S.H. Napa Cellars 2010 Pinot Noir (Napa lar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $24 83 Valley). A simple little Pinot Noir, with abv: 13.4% Price: $45 flavors of raspberry cream and vanilla. Gets the Pinot MacLaren 2009 Drouthy Neebors Syrah job commendably done. —S.H. Porter Family Vineyards 2009 Syrah 87 (Sonoma County). Easy and mellow, this abv: 14.5% Price: $18 91 (Napa Valley). Dense and opulent, this Syrah has a soft, velvety mouthfeel housing deep flavors of defines the modern Napa style of dramatically ripe fruit blackberry and blueberry jam, olive and mushroom La Crema 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian River with its blackberry, cassis and chocolate flavors. The tan- tapenade and bacon. Drink up. —S.H. 82 Valley). This is heavy and overripe, with prune nins are wonderfully complex and sweet. Grown in the abv: 14% Price: $35 jelly flavors. —S.H. Coombsville area, it benefited from the region’s cool- abv: 14.2% Price: $40 ness. —S.H. Sterling 2009 Vintner’s Collection Syrah abv: 14.8% Price: $47 87 (Central Coast). There’s a lot to like in this af- La Crema 2010 Pinot Noir (Arroyo Seco). fordable Syrah. It’s rich and smoky, with blackberry and 82 An acceptable effort, with sour acidity, this Pi- Truchard 2009 Syrah (Carneros). It’s dry, bacon flavors wrapped in a smooth texture. With 17,000 not has raspberry and cherry flavors that are marked 91 full bodied and tannic, needing some time to cases produced, this should be relatively easy to find. with a hit of mint. —S.H. come around. A note of black pepper is immediately no- Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 ticeable on first whiff. On the palate, it’s rich and deep, abv: 13.5% Price: $13 with in blackberry and blueberry flavors, with an umami Lange Twins 2010 Pinot Noir (Clarks- tang—like bacon. Give it until 2014 or so, although it’s Arcadian 2006 Stolpman Vineyard Syrah 82 burg). Though the alcohol level on this Pinot not a longterm ager. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 86 (Santa Ynez Valley). Dry and tannic, this Syr- Noir is modest, the heavy handedness of the oak is high, abv: 14.3% Price: $28 ah’s intentions are high, but it has some less-than-ripe with the wine taking on a burnt flavor—almost akin to fruit. There’s a green streak to the berries, which em- barbecue-flavored CornNuts. —V.B. Olson Ogden 2009 Alder Springs Vine- phasizes the astringency and acidity. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $17 90 yard Syrah (Mendocino). A dark plum and abv: 14.8% Price: $45 blueberry Syrah that’s concentrated and full-bodied Montpellier 2011 Pinot Noir (California). with back layers of cardamom spice that’s big in the Santa Barbara Winery 2009 Syrah (Santa 82 A simple wine that’s sweet and lacking in rich- mouth and thick with tannins. Give it a chance to open 86 Ynez Valley). With a fresh, jammy, blackberry ness, with a syrupy raspberry flavor. —S.H. and maybe even decant for a full experience of its in- flavor, this is a nice Syrah to drink now. It’s a big wine, abv: 12.5% Price: $10 tensity. The acidity in the wine will make it sing next to full bodied, tannic and bone dry. On its own, it’s a bit meaty meats. —V.B. tough, but pair it with rich, oily lamb, beef and game abv: 14.1% Price: $65 dishes and it will rise to the occasion. —S.H. SYRAH abv: 14.2% Price: $20 Arcadian 2006 Hommage a Max Syrah Olson Ogden 2009 Unti Vineyard Syr- 92 (Santa Ynez Valley). A fruity, dry Syrah that 90 ah (Dry Creek Valley). A gorgeous, brood- MacLaren 2009 Judge Family Vineyard has delicious blackberry, blueberry, anise and spice fla- ing Syrah from Unti’s wonderful Rhône-inspired 84 Syrah (Bennett Valley). Bennett Valley is a vors. It’s pretty tannic, but a nice beef or lamb dish will vineyard. This wine has savory herbs intermingled cooler section of Sonoma County, and maybe the cool help cut through the astringency. It’s structure is classy with flavors of black cherry, leather and espresso— vintage was just too much. This wine isn’t quite ripe. and elegant. Easily Arcadian’s best Syrah, it drinks well particularly on the finish. An integrated and complex It’s bone dry, acidic and tannic, and the fruit is herbal. now when decanted, and it should develop over the next rendering of California Syrah, with smooth tannins and —S.H. six years. —S.H. a fullness that doesn’t overwhelm. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $38 abv: 14.5% Price: $92 abv: 14.5% Price: $45

Failla 2010 Hudson Vineyard Syrah Arcadian 2006 Purisima Vineyard Syrah ZINFANDEL 92 (Napa Valley). Using grapes sourced from the 89 (Santa Ynez Valley). Very dry, tannic and Clif Family 2009 Gary’s Improv Zinfandel Hudson Vineyard in the Carneros appellation, this is an stubborn right now, this is a contrarian wine that makes 91 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 6. excellent Syrah. It’s rich and ripe in the Failla style, yet the argument for austerity and structure, rather than abv: 14.5% Price: $32 terrifically complex. In its youth, it’s all cherry and rasp- immediate lushness. The tannins hit hard, but there’s berry jam flavors, bearing new oak and a firm mineral a wealth of blackberry fruit, with the oak aging adding Dark Matter 2007 Zinfandel (Howell spine. Give it 5–6 years in the cellar to let it mellow a delicious, creamy, smoky note. This is impressive, al- 91 Mountain). Like the 2006 bottling, the win- and develop secondary bottle character. Cellar Selec- though it takes a certain understanding to properly ap- ery’s ’07 is enormously rich and extracted, with concen- tion. —S.H. preciate it. Drink now, after decanting. —S.H. trated flavors of blackberry, prune, cassis, cocoa and ce- abv: 14.8% Price: $56 abv: 14.7% Price: $45 dar. The alcohol high, and it shows up in the form of heat and a glycerine-driven sweetness—although the Sanguis 2008 The Prophet Syrah (Cali- Keever 2008 Syrah (Napa Valley). Ripe wine itself is dry. —S.H. 92 fornia). High in alcohol, this full-bodied Syrah 89 flavors of berry, cherry, cassis and toasted oak abv: 15.5% Price: $100 is almost like Port, with flavors of blackberry and blue- dominate this perky young Syrah. The tannins are pure berry jam and milk chocolate. It’s pretty tannic, too. Not

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 Dutcher Crossing 2010 Bernier-Sibary fruit and spice, the wine is a liquid version of blackberry this Zin isn’t very aromatic and it shows its alcohol, with 90 Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). jam on toast. —V.B. an earthy finish. —V.B. For full review see page 7. abv: 14.5% Price: $17 abv: 14.8% Price: $24 abv: 14.8% Price: $41 Shannon Ridge 2009 Ranch Collection Murphy-Goode 2009 Liar’s Dice Zinfan- Scott Harvey 2008 1869 Zinfandel (Ama- 87 Zinfandel (Lake County). A full, fruity Zin- 84 del (Sonoma County). Robust and direct, 90 dor County). A pleasing, complex Zin from fandel, with dusty tannins and structure. Its lingering this Zin is stuffed with fresh flavors of blackberries, the oldest documented Zin vineyard in California, finish is laced with notes of chocolate and vanilla. With cherries and raspberries. It’s a nice wine to drink with which has belonged to Scott Harvey since 1984. Dusty, 7% Petite Sirah mixed in, this would pair nicely with lasagna and burgers. —S.H. with a hint of mint, this structured, berry-flavored wine barbecue and other meaty dishes. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $21 is medium in weight, with a licorice undertone. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $19 abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Heavyweight 2009 "Champ" Thumper Storybook Mountain 2009 Mayacamas 83 Thompson Old Vine Zinfandel (Califor- Storybook Mountain 2009 Eastern Expo- 87 Range Zinfandel (Napa Valley). Like the nia). Soft and syrupy, with firm tannins, this Zinfandel 90 sures Zinfandel (Napa Valley). This earns winery’s other newly released , this one is is infused with strong berry, cherry and mocha flavors its score by virtue of the power of its flavors. It floods excessively soft, missing some structure to provide bal- that are a little sweet and overripe. —S.H. the mouth with flavors of blackberry, cherry, bacon, red ance to the extraordinarily rich berry, cherry, bacon, abv: 13.9% Price: $14 licorice, cola, savory Indian spice and smoky, exotic san- cola and spice flavors. Still, it earns points for sheer de- Beaulieu Vineyard 2010 Coastal Estates dalwood. It’s a young wine, but soft enough to drink now liciousness. —S.H. Zinfandel (California). Dry, acidic and sim- for sheer deliciousness. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $36 82 ple, this has a vegetal along with flavors of cherry and abv: 14.9% Price: $49 Kenwood 2009 Zinfandel (Sonoma Coun- blackberry. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 Storybook Mountain 2009 Estate Re- 86 ty). Lots of fresh flavors of summer berry, red serve Zinfandel (Napa Valley). This is clas- currant, tobacco and spice are found in this smoothly 90 Big House 2010 Cardinal Zin Beastly Old sic Zinfandel, bearing ripe, briary, brambly flavors of tannic Zin. There’s a sweetness to the fruit, but the wine is actually dry. It’s a fine Zinfandel to drink with barbe- 82 Vines Zinfandel (California). Dry and tan- wild berries, with notes of Dr. Pepper, tobacco, bacon, nic, this has less-than-ripe flavors of green peppercorns, sandalwood and exotic spices. Absolutely delicious, this cue. It should be relatively easy to find, with production tobacco and cherries. —S.H. is a wine to enjoy with a wide variety of spicy meats, nearing 21,000 cases. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $14 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 cheeses and vegetarian dishes. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $60 Sterling 2009 Vintner’s Collection Zin- Lange Twins 2010 Zinfandel (Lodi). A fandel (Central Coast). 82 smoky, oaky Zinfandel that’s well-endowed, with Claudia Springs NV Blend 4 Zinfandel 86 There’s lots of Zin- ny personality in this dry, affordable wine. It’s spicy a fuller-than-full body and a taste of bacon on the fin- (Mendocino County). The art is in the blend 89 and brisk, with briary flavors of forest berries, tobacco, ish. —V.B. here—a commingling of vintages and vineyards. The abv: 14.9% Price: $15 sweet mocha and pepper. —S.H. wine is fruity, fleshy and briary, with a spicy cardamom abv: 13.5% Price: $13 note on the midpalate and a finely honed texture. —V.B. Puccioni 2009 Old Vine Zinfandel (Dry abv: 15.3% Price: $18 Hobo 2010 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Val- 82 Creek Valley). With the alcohol clocking in at ley). This has flavors of briary and wild berry, 16%, the wine has a taste chili pepper, with raisin and Dutton-Goldfield 2010 Dutton Ranch Mo- 85 with spiciness and rich tannins that need a steak to play plum notes. —S.H. relli Lane Vineyard Zinfandel (Russian abv: 16% Price: $28 88 against. The wine is soft, which accentuates the alcohol River Valley). The cool vintage has given this wine and makes the finish seem to taste a bit sweet. —S.H. lots of perky acidity and dry tannins as well as an earthy, Trentadue 2009 La Storia Zinfandel (Al- abv: 14.4% Price: $22 mushroomy quality to the blackberry and cherry flavors. 82 exander Valley). A simple Zinfandel, this Probably best enjoyed soon, but give it a decant before Hobo 2010 Branham Vineyard Zinfandel is lacking in structure and balance, with overripe and underripe flavors. The basic taste is of spicy, oaky serving. —S.H. (Rockpile). Noticeable alcohol gives this Zin 85 blackberries, with a Porty heat from the high alcohol. abv: 14.4% Price: $45 both heat and apparent sweetness. Combined with a —S.H. superripe fruit flavor that veers into raisin territory, it Claudia Springs 2009 Valenti Ranch Zin- abv: 15% Price: $25 turns rustic. Drink it with barbecue. —S.H. 87 fandel (Mendocino Ridge). This smells of abv: 14.6% Price: $30 subdued strawberry and raspberry, with a twist of violet. It is tightly structured, tasting of brick and tar, and its Optima 2009 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Val- finish is ripe, brambly and bittersweet. —V.B. 85 ley). This is overripe, with a pruny flavor along Easton 2009 Monarch Mine Vineyard abv: 16.7% Price: $24 with notes of blackberry, mocha and spice. The alcohol 89 Barbera (Sierra Foothills). Faintly floral and is high, giving the wine some heat, but the finish is thor- deliciously soft and round, this Easton Barbera has a Claudia Springs 2008 Nate’s Vineyard oughly dry. —S.H. leathery backdrop to its dried currant and plum flavors, 87 Zinfandel (Redwood Valley). Made from abv: 14.9% Price: $25 with a subtle layer of tomato leaf. The savory acidity grapes sourced from an inland Mendocino County ap- should pair well with pasta dripping in red sauce. —V.B. pellation, this is at first forceful, tannic and dusty, with Graton Ridge 2010 Bacigalupi Vineyards abv: 14.5% Price: $25 strong red-berry and blueberry flavors. A tad decadent, 84 Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). Tastes it settles down nicely in the glass. —V.B. almost as sweet and fruity as a minor Port, with milk Easton 2009 Cooper Ranch Barbera abv: 14.3% Price: $24 chocolate, raisin and molasses flavors. It’s a bit soft and 88 (Shenandoah Valley). Pungent of baked warm. —S.H. plum and baking spice, this Shenandoah Barbera is soft Kendall-Jackson 2010 Vintner’s Reserve abv: 14.5% Price: $48 and rustic, yet refined, with a jolt of mocha espresso 87 Zinfandel (Mendocino County). This is a on the finish. The expert acidity enveloping this wine big, full Zinfandel that’s blended with 19% Petite Sirah Mt. Konocti Winery 2009 Zinfandel (Lake should pair with Mediterrean-themed food. —V.B. and 1% Chardonnay. With the right balance between 84 County). From a new Lake County producer, abv: 14.5% Price: $25

WineMag.com | 33 Uvaggio 2009 Barbera (Lodi). A full hit of Mosby 2008 Teroldego (Santa Barbara driven sweetness. As delicious as it is now, it should hold 88 blackberry and black cherry kick things off right 84 County). This California bottling of an Ital- and develop over the next 8–10 years. Cellar Selec- in this Lodi Barbera, followed by flavors of Dr. Pepper- ian varietal is rustic, with flavors suggesting cherry pie tion. —S.H. like spice and chocolate, with a silky, smooth finish. This filling. This should pair with burgers and similar fare. abv: 14.4% Price: $60 lovely wine would be happy served alongside a heap- —S.H. ing plate of lightly herbed, red-sauced pasta and pizza. abv: 13.5% Price: $28 Continuum 2009 Proprietary Red Wine —V.B. 92 (Napa Valley). The ’09 Continuum proves the abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Mosby 2009 Primitivo (California). Exces- adage that a great winery will produce fine wine even 83 sively soft, this is a simple, rustic sipper. Pair this in a compromised vintage—such as 2009, with its cool IL Gioiello 2008 Barbera (Amador Coun- with fare like spaghetti with sausage. —S.H. conditions and rain during . With dense tannins 87 ty). A spicy, stewy Barbera that’s medium in abv: 13.5% Price: $26 and a solid core of blackberry and spice flavors, the wine weight, soft and earthy—like a weathered leather sad- shows lovely complexity, with firm and masculine min- dle. It finishes long and soft, swaddled in plum flavor. Cinnabar 2008 Clautiere Vineyard erality. Still, it’s gritty and too young now to enjoy. Cellar —V.B. 82 Mourvèdre (Paso Robles). A difficult wine it for 6–8 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $20 to embrace. It’s herbal, stemmy and green, with a cherry abv: 14.7% Price: $165 flavor. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $38 Dancing Hares 2009 Red (St. Helena). GRENACHE 92 This tastes like a Starbucks fruit and mocha Mosby 2008 Dolcetto (Santa Barbara drink, with high alcohol. Still, the tannins and bracing Ojai 2008 Thompson Vineyard Grenache County). A simpleand soft wine, this has a minerality make it tangy and balanced. Should be good (Santa Barbara County). With a smooth, 82 91 modest red-cherry flavor that doesn’t taste quite ripe. until 2015 or so. —S.H. silky texture and lots of rewarding flavors, this Grenache —S.H. abv: 16.1% Price: $125 succeeds where so many others fail. It’s bone dry and abv: 13.5% Price: $24 has just enough acidity to balance the flavors of cherry, Laird 2008 Jillian’s Blend (Napa Valley). tobacco, cola and Virginia ham. —S.H. Blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and abv: 14.5% Price: $28 92 RED BLENDS Merlot, this is just about perfect for drinking now. It’s dry, firm in tannins and complex, with flavors of black- Andis Wines 2010 Grenache (Amador Sherwin Family 2007 Cobalt (Napa Val- berry, currant, licorice, smoked meat, spice and cedar County). A Grenache blended with small ley). This is fabulously rich and spicy, show- 85 95 that mingle onto the long, ripe finish. Editors’ Choice. amounts of Mourvèdre and Syrah, this may need more cases flamboyant flavors of blackberry jam, mocha and —S.H. time in bottle to truly reveal itself. But for now, its cedar, flecked with minerality and wrapped into refined abv: 14.8% Price: $38 herbal characteristics overpower the hidden notes of tannins. As flashy as it is, it’s balanced and dry, although blueberry and vanilla trying to get out. —V.B. the alcohol is on the heady side. This should provide Sanguis 2008 The Ballad of John Henry abv: 13.5% Price: $25 great drinking pleasure over the next 10 years. —S.H. (r.i.p.) (California). The winery goes to great abv: 15.4% Price: $98 92 lengths not to reveal the sources or grape varieties of Wesley Ashley 2009 Jordan Grenache this wine. The alcohol is very high, but the wine is an (Santa Barbara County). This tastes like a Dancing Hares 2008 Red (Howell Moun- 85 exemplary representative of the style, which is not un- candy bar, with flavors of melted cherry jam and milk tain). Rich, vital and dramatically layered, of- 94 common in California. Fantastically ripe, this has flavors chocolate. Some overripe fruit shows up in the form of fering tiers of ripe cherry and blackberry flavors. The of dessert pastry cherries, raspberries and mocha. It fin- a raisin flavor. —S.H. oak is sweetly toasted and fine. Based on Cabernet Sau- ishes dry despite its Port-like richness. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $45 vignon and Cabernet Franc, this is framed with firm mountain tannins that make it ageworthy. The first bot- abv: 16.3% Price: $65 tle tasted was off. Drink now—with a long decanting— Dancing Hares 2009 Mad Hatter (Napa OTHER RED WINES through 2020. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Valley). This is a thick, young blend that’s abv: 14.8% Price: $125 91 Kenefick Ranch 2008 Caitlin’s Select based on Merlot. It’s brooding in tannins, offering deep, Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley). This has the 92 Kenefick Ranch 2008 Pickett Road Red impressive layers of blackberry purée, dark chocolate seriousness of a fine Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, but it’s (Napa Valley). Outstanding and opulent, this and bacon. This is really delicious now with big, rich lighter, with flavors of cherry pie filling, cola and sandal- 94 shows classic Napa Valley concentration and flair. It’s fare, like short ribs, and it should be good over the next wood. It feels just perfect on the palate, with a fantas- based on Petit Verdot, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, with six years. —S.H. tic tannin-acid structure. Drink now with grilled steak. no Cabernet Sauvignon. Softly tannic and dry, it has rich abv: 15.1% Price: $62 —S.H. flavors of cherries and blueberries, red currants, mocha abv: 15.2% Price: $52 Olson Ogden 2009 Milla’s Blend (North and sandalwood. Superb now and over the next 2–3 Coast). Olson Ogden has made a nice blend years. —S.H. 91 Merryvale 2009 Cabernet Franc (Napa from several of its single-vineyard designates, using Syr- abv: 15.2% Price: $55 92 Valley). For full review see page 5. ah (57%), Counoise (22%), Pinot Noir (14%) and Mar- abv: 14.9% Price: $90 Merryvale 2009 Profile (Napa Valley).For sanne (7%). It’s full of flavor, chewy like sliced meats Cellar Selection. and savory herbs, concentrated and thick with tannins. La Rochelle 2010 Four Sisters Vineyard 94 full review see page 3. abv: 14.9% Price: $165 The finish is long with a note of black pepper. —V.B. 90 Pinot Meunier (Sonoma Coast). For full abv: 14.5% Price: $35 review see page 7. Terlato 2008 Episode (Napa Valley). For abv: 13.6% Price: $38 94 full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. La Clarine Farm 2010 Home Vineyard abv: 14.4% Price: $175 90 (Sierra Foothills). An eclectic red blend from Chacewater 2009 Malbec (Red Hills Lake Hank Beckmeyer’s hillside vineyard, this is comprised County). Smelling of coconut on the nose, this 84 Celani Family Vineyards 2009 Tenacious of 28% Tannat, 24% , 24% Syrah, 22% Gr- Malbec is good, like a big mouthful of cherry pie. —V.B. (Napa Valley). Juicy and meaty, this Merlot- enache and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon. Demonstrating La abv: 15.1% Price: $18 93 based blend is just starting to come into its own. It’s rich Clarine Farm’s rich, signature aromatics, it’s so pretty in in raspberry, cherry and mocha flavors, with a glycerine- the glass, smelling of violet and rose. On the palate, the

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2011 wine is earthy and stony, with dark strawberry and cher- Rahn 2010 Corvino Bosco Vineyard Gr- jam, toasted almond and honey. Modern in style, the ry flavors and an air of orange zest and licorice framing 87 enache-Mourvèdre (San Francisco Bay). texture is soft, with melted tannins. —S.H. its spicy, meaty qualities. —V.B. Rahn has blended 50% Grenache and 50% Mourve- abv: 14.5% Price: $85 abv: 14.3% Price: $30 dre and aged it in French oak for a year. The result is a smooth, soft, rich texture, with a mix of cherry and Morgan 2010 Cotes du Crow’s (Mon- Terre Rouge 2009 L’Autre G-S-M (Si- vanilla flavors. A parting shot of dark chocolate marks 86 terey). A sound, bistro-style wine that’s dry and 90 erra Foothills). Terre Rouge’s classic GSM the finish. —V.B. full-bodied. Made from Syrah and Grenache, it shows is earthy, like a silken Pinot Noir, wafting with damp, abv: 13.8% Price: $25 tobacco, cherry and spice flavors, with brisk acidity. earthy moss and mushroom aromas. It’s very savory but —S.H. has enough flavors of cranberry, bramble fruit and pep- Shannon Ridge 2009 Wrangler Red abv: 13.5% Price: $18 pery spice on the finish. —V.B. (Lake County). Jammed with ripe plum, cher- 87 Yorkville Cellars 2009 Richard the Lion- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 ry and blackberry flavors, this is a big-boned yet soft, Heart, Rennie Vineyard (Yorkville High- nicely spiced wine made from Zinfandel, Tempranillo, 86 Donati 2008 Claret (Paicines). An interest- lands). Yorkville says this might possibly be the only Barbera, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache. ing wine that grows on you as you experience it. wine produced in California with all six of Bordeaux’s 88 —V.B. Bone dry and softly elegant, it has a crisp spine of acid- noble red varieties—Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Car- abv: 14.2% Price: $17 ity framing delicate flavors of sour cherry candy, tobacco menère, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. and spice. It has the feel of a Pinot Noir, although it’s And the producer is one of the few to have such a large Storybook Mountain 2008 Antaeus (Napa a predominantly Bordeaux-style blend, with a splash of planting of Carmenère, grown organically from its Ren- Valley). This is heady and delicious, with pow- Syrah. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 87 nie Vineyard. The wine mixes flavors of cherry and cara- erful flavors of blackberry and cherry jam, cola, spice abv: 14.6% Price: $20 mel toffee. —V.B. and smoky oak. A blend of Zinfandel and Cabernet Sau- abv: 13.5% Price: $38 Keever 2009 Inspirado (Napa Valley). vignon, with a splash of Petit Verdot, this wine’s stron- 88 Very ripe and fruity, this has a rich, glycerine- gest feature is its ripeness. It’s bit soft on the finish; Lorenzi Estate Wines 2009 Adam & Eve driven sweetness, like a tangy ruby Port. It’s delicious in drink this over the next few years. —S.H. 85 Cabernet Franc-Merlot (Temecula Val- blackberry jam and caramel flavors, with intricate tan- abv: 14.7% Price: $40 ley). A blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot, Adam & nins and fine, citrusy acids. —S.H. Eve has red cherry and cranberry flavors going on in abv: 14.7% Price: $68 Trentadue 2009 La Storia Cuvée 32 (So- spades, with a soft note of vanilla. The alcohol heats up 87 noma County). Tastes soft and high in al- quickly, especially on the finish. —V.B. Stateside Wines 2009 Winemaker’s Re- cohol, with flavors of chocolate, cherry pie filling and abv: 15.2% Price: $38 88 serve Red Wine Blend (Sonoma County). spice. An appealing wine that’s for drinking now. —S.H. For full review see page 9. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Lorenzi Estate Wines 2009 Heritage Red abv: 13.6% Price: $18 85 (Temecula Valley). Austere tasting at first, Viszlay Vineyards 2008 Five Vines Estate this has a fruity, dusty flavor, with a swath of caramel. Fenestra NV True Red Lot 26 (California). 87 Bottled (Russian River Valley). This Bor- This blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfan- 87 This is an easy-drinking blend of many red va- deaux blend—comprised of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvi- del tastes warm on the finish. —V.B. rieties from a Livermore-based producer who loves gnon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec—is a abv: 15.1% Price: $48 both Rhône and Portuguese reds. This is soft and lightly nice wine for drinking now, and a real success for the spiced, with cola and cherry notes on the finish. A very Russian River Valley. It’s smooth and supple, with pol- Morse 2007 Ensemble G-S-M (Sierra good wine for a barbecue or a tailgate. Best Buy. —V.B. ished flavors of cherry, red currant, cola, mocha and 85 Foothills). Stewy at first, this gets better af- abv: 13.8% Price: $12 spice. —S.H. ter opening and catching some air, developing into a abv: 13.9% Price: $30 straightforward Rhône blend, with soft tannins and Hawk Watch Winery NV Eight-Nine-Ten strips of cinnamon and vanilla. —V.B. G-S-M (South Coast). This is an aromatic, 87 Coho 2009 Headwaters (Napa Valley). abv: 14.6% Price: $24 powerful GSM blend—predominantly Grenache and Toasty, caramelized oak dominates the aroma Syrah—that has dark cherry and plum flavors and a 86 Tower 15 2009 The Swell (Paso Robles). and flavor of this Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend. It trace of cinnamon throughout. Very concentrated, this This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit tastes soft and a little short of power. —S.H. 85 wine lingers on the palate without being overwhelming. Verdot is soft, with berry, cocoa and spice flavors. Drink abv: 14.7% Price: $42 —V.B. it with summer barbecue and enjoy. —S.H. abv: 15.9% Price: $26 abv: 14.7% Price: $21 Donati 2008 Ezio (Paicines). Riper and fruitier than Donati’s less expensive ’08s, the Holly’s Hill 2009 Patriarche (El Do- 86 Vezer Family Vineyard 2008 Jake’s Cellar Ezio is a Bordeaux-style blend based on Cabernet Sau- 87 rado). Though the blend is predominantly 85 Master Select (Suisun Valley). A blend of Mourvèdre, the lesser amount of Grenache really vignon. This swaps elegance for a more full-bodied, ro- Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel, Vezer’s stands out aromatically, with notes of strawberry liqueur bust style that comes across as heavy. —S.H. Jake’s has a good, dark earthy personality, with a depth and cinnamon spice jumping out. A black cherry fla- abv: 14.6% Price: $40 of spice around its big shoulders and dusty Petite Sirah vor follows on the midpalate, and the soft tannins lend finish. —V.B. structure to the wine. Additions of Syrah and Counoise Ferriere Vineyards 2002 Radoux Ferriere abv: 14.5% Price: $39 round out the blend. —V.B. 86 (Sierra Foothills). Made from a hodgepodge abv: 14.5% Price: $30 of red grapes—Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Beaulieu Vineyard 2010 Coastal Estates Cabernet Franc—Ferriere’s 2002 is, despite its age, 84 (California). This blend of Zinfandel, Merlot, Lorenzi Estate Wines 2009 Red Fusion tight at first. Its needs time to aerate for the brooding Barbera and Petite Sirah seems too sweet in cherry and 87 (Temecula). Savory, with a bite on the finish, cassis and blackberry flavors to surface. —V.B. plum flavors, but it plays to the consumers who like this this proprietary blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, abv: 14.4% Price: $30 style of wine. —S.H. Merlot and Mourvedre is lush and well integrated. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 It’s complex enough to match with a range of hearty Galaxy 2008 Syrah-Merlot-Cabernet Sau- foods—especially red meat. —V.B. 86 vignon (Sonoma-Napa). This is fruity as Cupcake 2011 Red Velvet (California). abv: 15.8% Price: $46 a pastry, with flavors of nougat, blackberry and cherry 84 It’s easy to see why this red blend is so popular

WineMag.com | 35 among consumers: It’s smooth, with the taste of rasp- Firefly Ridge 2010 The Red Flash (Cali- Eola Hills 2010 Chardonnay (Oregon). berry and white layer cake with vanilla frosting. —S.H. 82 fornia). This is a simple, rustic wine, with fla- 90 This has notes of sleek mixed fruits and toasty, abv: 13.5% Price: $14 vors of raspberry and cherry. —S.H. bourbon-barrel-influenced flavors of toasted hazelnut abv: 13.5% Price: $10 and buttered popcorn that usually come at a higher Double Decker 2009 Red (California). price. Drink now. Best Buy. —P.G. 84 Rustic and seemingly sweet, this has berry and abv: NA Price: $13 spice flavors that are wrapped with sturdy tannins. A DESSERT WINES blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah and Barbera, The Eyrie Vineyards 2010 Estate Char- Grgich Hills 2009 Violetta Late Harvest this makes for a good barbecue. —S.H. donnay (Dundee Hills). Production of this White Blend (Napa Valley). A very sweet 90 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 87 Chardonnay was cut way back in 2010, but the quality is wine, this has a residual sugar of 11.9%. The sweetness as good as ever. It’s an elegant wine, showcasing purity of white sugar dominates the orange and apricot fruit. Ensemble 2010 Red (California). There of fruit. Flavors of meyer lemon, citrus, orange peel and —S.H. are tons of juicy raspberry and cherry flavors in 84 abv: 14.1% Price: $85/375 ml pretty apple abound. There is both balance and depth this soft, gentle red blend. —S.H. to the finish. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $10 Ojai 2011 Kick On Ranch Riesling (Santa abv: 13.5% Price: $27 Barbara County). Very sweet, this has hon- Hawk Watch Winery 2008 Synthesis 87 Thistle 2010 Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). eyed-apricot, orange and vanilla flavors. It’s an opulent (South Coast). This is a Petite Verdot-based This estate grown, organic Chardonnay has 84 wine, but as rich as it is, you find yourself wishing it were 89 blend, with smaller amounts of Zinfandel (22%) and plenty of acidity, but the tart lemon-lime and green-ap- even sweeter. —S.H. Cabernet Sauvignon (14%), with opening scents of abv: 10% Price: $26/375 ml ple fruit is leavened with crisp minerality. The mouth- cherry and teak. It’s clean albeit a tad heavy-handed, feel, texture and length elevate this to levels beyond just with soft tannins. —V.B. Envy 2008 Petite Sirah (Napa Valley). This a simple, citrusy Chardonnay. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $26 85 has a fantastically sugary, honeyed richness. But abv: 13.4% Price: $20 the flavors don’t stand up to the sweetness. The black- Markham 2010 Cellar 1879 Blend (Napa Longplay 2010 Lia’s Vineyard Jory Slope berry flavor diminishes on the midpalate, and never re- Valley). Dry and sour, this has a certain rustic Chardonnay (Chehalem Mountains). This 84 covers. —S.H. 86 elegance, with a nice finish that should pair well with abv: 18.3% Price: $48/375 ml opens bearing scents suggesting banana and tropi- simple beef dishes, like tacos. —S.H. cal fruit, with an oily character. On the palate, the fla- abv: 14.2% Price: $25 Kenwood 2011 Zacchera Moscato (Cali- vor veers toward sour apple, with tart acids. The finish fornia). For full review see page 9. brings in a lick of butter, but at the moment it doesn’t Pedroncelli 2010 friends.red (Sonoma 85 abv: 12% Price: $14 quite come together. This may benefit from more bottle 84 County). This is a simple red wine that’s rustic, age. —P.G. bearing flavors of raspberry and cherry Lifesaver candy abv: 14.1% Price: $24 and Dr. Pepper cola. —S.H. OREGON abv: 14.3% Price: $11 PINOT GRIS Sanglier Cellars 2009 Rouge du Tusque CHARDONNAY The Eyrie Vineyards 2010 Estate Pinot 84 (Sonoma County). Bone dry, prickly and The Eyrie Vineyards 2010 Original Vines 93 Gris (Dundee Hills). The grapes used for tannic, this blend of Grenache, Syrah and Petite Sirah 93 Reserve Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). This should be decanted for a couple of hours. Drink now. this wine are from the original vines, planted almost reserve-level Chardonnay is brimming with old vine el- 50 years ago by David Lett. Rich, sleek and textural, —S.H. egance and detail. Delicately nuanced flavors mix fresh abv: 15.2% Price: $25 this thrilling effort sets a new standard for Oregon Pi- herb with citrus, apple and melon. The depth and detail not Gris. Grassy notes are married to lush citrus and are evidence of Jason Lett’s increasing mastery of his Snap Dragon 2009 Red (California). This apple fruit. The flavors go deep and long, the finish is vines and wines. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. immaculate and brings a palate-refreshing minerality. 84 is dry and medium bodied, with flavors of hay, abv: 13.5% Price: $47 spice and sour cherry candy. Drink this rustic wine with Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 simple fare, like burgers or pizza. —S.H. Domaine Drouhin 2010 Arthur Chardon- abv: 13.5% Price: $9 92 nay (Dundee Hills). Rich, toasty and ripe, this Eight Bells 2010 Pinot Gris (Eola-Amity seduces from first sniff to last sip. The balance of fruit Murphy-Goode 2006 All In Claret (Alex- Hills). The pretty nose is richly scented with and barrel influence is spot on, crafting an elegant yet 91 ander Valley). fresh, crisp grapefruit. There is also a hint of petrol and 83 Soft and simple, this has flavors powerful Chardonnay with flavors of melon, tree fruit, of sour cherry candy and red currant, with a hint of oak. a peppery, rye-seed component. This is stylish and long, and baking spice. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. and the fruit is clean and deep. The spicy finish leaves It feels warm from the high alcohol. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $30 abv: 15.2% Price: $24 you longing for another sip. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $18 Domaine Serene 2010 Evanstad Reserve Sanglier Cellars 2009 Boar’s Camp / 92 Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). For full review 83 Kick Ranch (Sonoma County). A blend of Rainstorm 2011 Pinot Gris (Oregon). For see page 5. Editors’ Choice. full review see page 10. Best Buy. Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault, this is dry and superhigh abv: 13.4% Price: $45 90 in acidity and tannins, with thin fruit. The white pepper abv: 12.5% Price: $13 and licorice flavors finish warm. —S.H. David Hill 2009 Estate Reserve Chardon- Raptor Ridge 2011 Pinot Gris (Willamette abv: 15.3% Price: $45 nay (Willamette Valley). 90 This is a soft and Valley). Marked by a slight effervescence, this very pretty Chardonnay, with luscious mixed fruit fla- 89 Tower 15 2010 The Jetty (Paso Robles). clean and refreshing wine is perfect for warm weather. vors of banana, apple and melon. Highlights of pastry 83 This Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre blend Light citrus, cucumber and melon flavors mingle in a spice and a gentle toasty/nutty character make this wine balanced wine that has excellent structure and length. is simple and seemingly sweet. It tastes like a coffee- easy drinking and most appealing. Editors’ Choice. house concoction of mocha, raspberry syrup and lico- —P.G. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $18 rice. —S.H. abv: 13.4% Price: $18 abv: 15.1% Price: $21

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 Coelho 2011 Estate Renovação Pinot Agate Ridge 2010 Estate Viognier (Rogue Raptor Ridge 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir 88 Gris (Willamette Valley). Aromas of green 82 Valley). Barrel-fermented and pungent, with a 92 (Willamette Valley). This is an engaging apple, melon, pear and a hint of Meyer lemon intro- whiff of glue, this has a simple mix of mint and wax aro- mouthful of cherry-berry fruit soaked in toasty ac- duce this tart and flavorful Pinot Gris. It’s lightly spiced, mas. —P.G. cents of mocha and caramel. Luscious and long, with a fruity and compact. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 smooth, supple mouthfeel, it’s hard to keep your hands abv: 12.9% Price: $20 off it. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $38 Eola Hills 2010 Pinot Gris (Oregon). This PINOT NOIR Thistle 2009 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). 87 is a straightforward, clean, fruity wine, with a Brittan Vineyards 2009 Basalt Block Pi- green apple flavor. —P.G. For full review see page 6. Editors’ Choice. not Noir (Willamette Valley). The fourth 92 abv: 12.5% Price: $13 94 abv: 13.9% Price: $30 vintage for Brittan’s elegant Basalt Block Pinot Noir is arguably the finest yet. Tangy and pure, with an immac- Grandmaster 2011 Pinot Gris (Oregon). David Hill 2009 Estate BlackJack Pinot ulate, expressive cherry flavor, it has great purity, with This weaves spicy melon and pear flavors into a Noir (Willamette Valley). The BlackJack is 87 great depth of flavor and vivid minerality. It’s a beauti- 91 soft, smooth, fleshy and fruity core. Forward and acces- old vine Pinot Noir from this estate’s most demanding fully crafted wine, sure to continue to improve over a sible, it’s best served chilled. —P.G. barrel selection. Good concentration lends depth to the decade or more. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $14 blackberry flavor. Streaks of cola, smoke and coffee ex- abv: NA Price: $45 tract run through the core of this wine, which remains Agate Ridge 2010 Estate Pinot Gris Tendril 2009 White Label Pinot Noir (Wil- in fine balance through the potent finish. —P.G. (Rogue Valley). With a mix of melon and cu- abv: 13.8% Price: $45 85 lamette Valley). For full review see page 4. cumber flavors, this is not-quite-ripe tasting. Clean and 94 Cellar Selection. quaffable, it has a hint of alcoholic warmth on the pal- Ponzi 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willa- abv: 14.3% Price: $48 ate. —P.G. 91 mette Valley). Detailed and elegant, this abv: 14.1% Price: $14 Roco 2009 Private Stash #7 Pinot Noir requires a little extra time and attention to show its strengths. It’s a subtle mix of spice, cocoa and blackber- (Chehalem Mountains). From a low-- LaVelle Vineyards 2011 Pinot Gris (Wil- 93 ry notes, with a touch of tobacco; the scents and flavors ing estate vineyard, the Private Stash offers exceptional lamette Valley). Yeasty, with beery aromatics, mingle seamlessly. A hint of cola surfaces on the finish, 85 focus and clarity. It’s a transparent and seductive wine, this has slightly sweet, tangy flavors of grapefruit and lingering gracefully for more than a minute. —P.G. bearing immaculate berry and cherry fruit, lovely bal- soda pop. Give it more time in the bottle to meld to- abv: 14% Price: $60 ance, silky tannins and amazing length. Cellar Selec- gether. —P.G. tion. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $22 Roco 2009 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). abv: 14% Price: $70 91 A yummy new release from Roco, this seduc- Siltstone 2010 Pinot Gris (Willamette Val- Brittan Vineyards 2009 Gestalt Block Pi- tive, satin-smooth wine marries flavors of cherry and ley). Quite light and tart, this has simple fruit chocolate, with a subtle underpinning of mineral. The 84 not Noir (Willamette Valley). This displays flavors of light citrus and melon. The finish turns a bit 92 finish brings in butterscotch and barrel notes, all cho- the impressive purity of flavor that characterizes Brit- plastic tasting. —P.G. reographed into perfect harmony. Editors’ Choice. tan Pinots. A chunky, firm core of black cherry fruit is abv: 13.4% Price: $15 —P.G. streaked with a cola note, opening into a full-bodied abv: 14% Price: $30 wine of power and length. It’s a fine match to the this producer’s more elegant Basalt Block bottling. Editors’ OTHER WHITE WINES Tendril 2009 Tightrope Pinot Noir (Wil- Choice. —P.G. lamette Valley). The Tightrope bottling from Raptor Ridge 2011 Estate Grüner Veltlin- abv: NA Price: $45 91 88 er (Chehalem Mountains). Tart, racy, steely Tendril winemaker Tony Rynders has the power and and bracing, this is a fine Grüner for Oregon. Grapefruit Coeur de Terre 2009 Estate Pinot Noir complexity of its companion “White Label” bottling, but it needs more time to pull itself together. Right now and Meyer lemon flavors are highlighted with a note of (McMinnville). This superfruity wine is ripe, 92 the wood component still has a rough, raw edge, un- orange candy. It’s persistent and crisply defined. —P.G. bearing a juicy raspberry flavor that’s round and deli- less given several hours of breathing time. The powerful abv: 13% Price: $18 cious. Suggestions of leather and stem add interest; the cherry fruit is there to match it, but the details remain fresh, zippy acidity keeps the long finish lively. Editors’ hidden. —P.G. Folin Cellars 2011 Estate Viognier Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $64 87 (Rogue Valley). A floral nose greets you abv: 13.9% Price: $34 at first sniff, followed by hints of light citrus. A mix Domaine Serene 2009 Winery Hill Vine- of grapefruit, melon and apple flavors are light and Domaine Drouhin 2010 Pinot Noir (Wil- yard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Consistent enticing, keeping the wine delicate and balanced. The lamette Valley). Open and immediately ac- 90 92 with previous vintages, this is a lightly herbal, spicy Pi- finish leaves an impression of lemon tea. —P.G. cessible, this is fragrant and gently floral, with clearly not, with a core of cherry and chocolate flavors. The abv: 13.4% Price: $25 defined varietal character. It opens beautifully into an generous midpalate is full flavored and stays focused on elegant, aromatic and crisply structured wine, with the fruit and barrel notes. Though not as complex as Foris 2011 Moscato (Oregon). A spritzy, excellent length. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 85 frizzante style, this is sweet and simple, with a abv: 13.9% Price: $40 some of the other Domaine Serene Pinots, this one is clean flavor of orange. —P.G. very well defined and expressive of the site. —P.G. abv: 7.5% Price: $14 Raptor Ridge 2009 Adalfo’s Block Pinot abv: 13.4% Price: $75 Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Concentrated 92 Iota Cellars 2009 Pelos Sandberg Vine- Foris 2010 Riesling (Rogue Valley). and laced with appealing minerality, this single-block yard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Fo- 85 Blocky and tart, this shows little of the flower or Pinot Noir is cellarworthy, but drinking beautifully right 90 cused raspberry fruit is dotted with black pepper and delicate citrus notes that many Oregon con- now. The crisp acids and flavors of ripe cherry and clean underscored with a granite-like minerality. Tight and re- vey. The clean apple flavor makes it good for summer earth are well balanced. With extra breathing time, this fined, this elegant but forceful young Pinot has excellent picnics. —P.G. reveals further complexities. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Cellar Selection. abv: 12.6% Price: $14 abv: 14% Price: $35 aging potential. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $36

WineMag.com | 37 Raptor Ridge 2010 Olenik Vineyard Pinot Luminous Hills 2010 Lux Pinot Noir (Yam- Plush 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willa- 90 Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Chewy and 88 hill-Carlton District). Herbal and toasty, this 86 mette Valley). This has pretty raspberry and tart, this has a core of cranberry and sour cherry fruit. is a smooth, open and forward Pinot. It is showing plen- cherry fruit. Light and forward, it displays a touch of A streak of minerality anchors the mouthfeel, with hints ty of barrel influence at the moment, but the fruit seems minerality, adding interest to the finish. —P.G. of herb and ground coffee streaking the finish. —P.G. to thin out a bit in the finish. As it’s young, it could cer- abv: 12.9% Price: $50 abv: 13% Price: $35 tainly flesh out and balance itself with a bit more bottle age. —P.G. David Hill 2009 Estate Pinot Noir (Wil- Coelho 2010 Estate Paciência Pinot Noir abv: 13.5% Price: $35 85 lamette Valley). This is the winery’s budget 89 (Willamette Valley). Fresh, clean flavors of offering. It shows modest varietal flavors, with a slight plum and wild cherry are underscored with pleasing Longplay 2010 Lia’s Vineyard Jory Bench burned or roasted character. —P.G. minerality. The balance is perfect, never overblown. It 87 Reserve Pinot Noir (Chehalem Moun- abv: 13.3% Price: $16 thins out a bit quickly on the finish. —P.G. tains). This light and herbal reserve has scents of pine abv: 12.8% Price: $45 needles and tart cherry. It spent 10 months in 25% new Eola Hills 2010 Pinot Noir (Oregon). With French oak, adding just a delicate hint of chocolate to 85 its flavors of raspberry and cherry soda, this a David Hill 2009 Estate Winemakers Cu- the finish. —P.G. simple Pinot Noir. A slight grassy note comes through 89 vée Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Spicy abv: 13.4% Price: $34 on the finish. —P.G. and quite oaky, this needs more time in the bottle to abv: 13.3% Price: $16 meld itself together. Notes of cherry, blackberry, cola Red Door 2010 Pinot Noir (Oregon). and earth run through the spine, and it has plenty of ag- 87 Pleasant, light scents of pure Pinot Noir fruit ing potential. Cellar Selection. —P.G. lead onto the palate that has a brambly strawberry fla- SYRAH abv: 14.5% Price: $50 vor. Tart and showing a hint of rhubarb, this is a clean, Folin Cellars 2008 Estate Syrah (Rogue fruit-driven Pinot Noir. —P.G. Valley). Dark and high-toned, this offers a con- Domaine Drouhin 2008 Laurène Pinot 90 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 centrated blackberry flavor, with well-balanced, ripe Noir (Dundee Hills). As usual, the Laurène 89 tannins. There’s a hint of heat on the finish, but the fruit reserve is a bit of a tough nut to crack, and needs extra Seven of Hearts 2010 Armstrong Vine- is so jammy and juicy that it conquers all. —P.G. yard Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). breathing time. Here the cranberry-cherry fruit shows 87 This sin- abv: 14.8% Price: $30 layering and depth, but it’s so compact that it seems to gle-vineyard Pinot is clean, tart and crisply defined. quickly lead into a tart, tight, somewhat astringent finish. It has a note of Oregon herb, along with substantial, Agate Ridge 2009 Estate Syrah (Rogue After some hours, a pleasing toasty character emerges, chewy tannins. —P.G. 88 Valley). This is arguably the best of the current and experience would suggest that this is a wine to cellar abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Agate Ridge reds. It’s a nicely focused Syrah, mixing fla- for a decade or more. Cellar Selection. —P.G. vors of raspberry, chocolate and coffee syrup into a ripe Coelho 2010 Atração Pinot Noir (Willa- abv: NA Price: $65 bundle. The tannins are supportive and proportionate. mette Valley). At first this shows some earthy, 86 —P.G. Luminous Hills 2010 Estate Grown Pinot volatile aromas. The mineral-driven palate has tart, abv: 14.4% Price: $24 89 Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). This is a sol- slightly bitter fruit flavors, suggesting crabapple and id, flavorful and earthy wine; it’s blocky core of black wild berry. —P.G. Eola Hills 2007 Syrah (Oregon). Thick and cherry fruit is set against a foundation of earth and con- abv: 13.2% Price: $20 87 syrupy, this Syrah is not for everyone, but it will crete notes. Full bodied and powerful, the finish reso- certainly stand apart from the crowd. Flavors of black Eola Hills 2009 La Creole Reserve Pinot nates with drying tannins. —P.G. cherry compote and maple syrup soak into the earthy, Noir (Oregon). A strong herbal scent kicks abv: 13.5% Price: $28 86 tannic base, with just a hint of volatility. —P.G. things off, with a whiff of volatility. Tight and herbal, abv: 14.5% Price: $16 Rainstorm 2009 Pinot Noir (Oregon). For this has a core of black cherry flavor. —P.G. 89 full review see page 8. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.9% Price: $29 abv: 12.5% Price: $17 OTHER RED WINES Longplay 2010 Lia’s Vineyard Pinot Noir Raptor Ridge 2010 Shea Vineyard Pinot 86 (Chehalem Mountains). Thin but elegant, Folin Cellars 2009 Misceo Red (Rogue 89 Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). Youthful with a hint of truffle on the nose. It’s stylish in a tart, un- 89 Valley). Folin’s Misceo is a GSM blend of es- and tight, this offers bright scents of cranberry and rasp- derstated style, with a modest raspberry flavor. —P.G. tate-grown fruit. The opening aromas carry a hint of berry fruit. The acids are firm and balanced, and the abv: 13.2% Price: $27 pleasing funkiness. Once on the palate, the fruit and fruit clean and well defined. —P.G. mineral flavors dominate, both detailed and nicely pro- abv: 13% Price: $40 Macindoe 2009 Pinot Noir (Willamette portioned. Wild berry, rock and black pepper highlights 86 Valley). Surprisingly mature in both color and provide interesting grace notes. —P.G. Seven of Hearts 2010 Lia’s Vineyard Pi- flavor development, this mixes a flavor of rhubarb pie abv: 14.1% Price: $34 89 not Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Lightly with brown sugar accents. Soft and approachable in funky and showing definite signs of early maturity, this style this should be consumed soon. —P.G. Folin Cellars 2008 Estate Tempranillo smooth, medium-bodied wine is ready to drink now. abv: 14.9% Price: $24 87 (Rogue Valley). Oaky and tart, this is an- Flavors of blood oranges, berries and cherries mingle in chored by a bright raspberry flavor. There is a firm, this smooth, easy-drinking effort. —P.G. Macindoe 2008 Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carl- toasty edge to the tannins, and plenty of buoyant acid- abv: 13.5% Price: $35 86 ton District). A light flavor of cherry mingles ity. —P.G. with a dusting of brown sugar in this pleasant, easy- abv: 14.4% Price: $30 David Hill 2009 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir drinking wine. —P.G. 88 (Willamette Valley). A light touch works well abv: 14.8% Price: $30 Foris 2008 Siskiyou Terrace Cabernet with this elegant reserve. Its wild berry flavor and juicy 87 Franc (Rogue Valley). Tight and earthy, this acids are seemless, with a kiss of oak carried through on Olsen Family Vineyards 2010 Pinot Noir spent 18 months in French oak—30% new. Flavors of the finish. —P.G. 86 (Willamette Valley). Simple and earthy, this wild berry and light chocolate are set in a tightly wound abv: 13.8% Price: $32 has a core of sour cherry and raspberry flavors, with a wine, with a strong mineral accent and drying tannins. quick finish. —P.G. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13.9% Price: $20

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 Foris 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rogue J. Portugal Ramos 2011 Vila Santa Bran- Lagosta 2011 Vinho Verde. Floral, aromatic 86 Valley). This has a unique nose, including 89 co Reserva (Alentejano). This is an intense, 84 and light in texture, this has attractive prickle on notes of clover and pine. The palate has a dark, hard, aromatic wine. It has green- and white-fruit flavors that the palate, with sweetness on the finish. A fine summer tannic core, with hints of black cherry and bitter choco- are rounded out by oak, which lends a spice note and a quaffer. Prestige Wine Group. —R.V. late peeing through. It may need several more years to soft texture. The finish is tangy and mineral driven. This abv: 9% Price: $NA open up completely. —P.G. is worth aging for a year. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 13.9% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Calamares 2011 Vinho Verde. Sweet and 83 yeasty, this shows a balance between intense Agate Ridge 2008 Estate Petite Sirah Fitapreta Vinhos 2010 Branco (Alenteja- acidity and sugar. The finish has a touch of citrus flavor. 84 (Rogue Valley). Sharp and volatile aromas in- 87 no). Crisp, round and spicy, this has dominat- Screwcap. Vision Wine & Spirits. —R.V. troduce this dark, chalky red. It needs to be paired with ing flavors of apples and pears. A green plum flavor and abv: 9% Price: $NA a seriously juicy, fatty red meat to buffer the the tan- pure acidity complement the finish. Winebridge Im- nins. —P.G. ports. —R.V. abv: 13.8% Price: $26 abv: 13% Price: $18 OTHER WHITE WINES Herdade da Comporta 2010 Parus Bran- David Hill 2009 Tempranillo (Rogue Val- J. Portugal Ramos 2011 Loios Branco co Antão Vaz (Setubal). Considering its ley). Aged for two-plus years in mixed oak bar- (Alentejano). This is round and smooth, with 91 84 86 richness and alcohol, this wine has managed to retain a rels, this has not yet proved it can handle all of that its flesh balanced with citrusy acidity. It’s clean, fruity bright, fresh character. Along with its rich yellow fruit, wood. Tannic and aggressively oaky, it carries little fruit and crisp, yet this has weight and structure. Winebow. there is a mineral, salty character that runs through the and varietal character. —P.G. Best Buy. —R.V. heart of the wine. It could be aged for 3−4 years. Value abv: 14.4% Price: $35 abv: 12.5% Price: $10 Vines LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA Eola Hills 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Or- Cortes de Cima 2011 Chaminé Branco egon). (Alentejano). 84 This is quite tannic and earthy, with 85 Flavors of pear and white peach Parras Vinhos 2010 Casa das Gaeiras some sweet berry fruit somewhat buried underneath drive this clean, fruity wine. It has a tang of citrus and Branco (Lisboa). With Chardonnay giving the structure. It finishes with a little herbal bitterness. acidity that adds a lively edge. Ready to drink now. Tri- 90 weight to the blend, this is a full-bodied, rich and ripe —P.G. Vin Imports. —R.V. wine. It has great balance, with flavors of pineapple, cit- abv: 13.6% Price: $16 abv: 13% Price: $12 rus and sweet pear enclosed in the firm texture. Worth aging for a few years. Grape Moments. Cellar Selec- Parras Vinhos 2010 Pera Doce Bran- tion. —R.V. PORTUGAL co Reserva (Alentejano). This is soft and 85 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA full bodied, with a ripe yellow-fruit flavor and a hint of ALENTEJANO WHITES spice that merge with the rounded texture. The acid- Quinta de São José 2011 Azeo (Douro). ity just surfaces on the finish. Grape Moments. —R.V. Powerful and textured, this has weight from Luis Duarte 2010 Rubrica Branco (Alen- abv: 13% Price: $NA 90 94 tejano). An immense and opulent wine, with the white and citrus fruits, with strong mineral under- a more mineral, citrus-driven backdrop. This is packed tones. It’s dense and complex; the great acidity is tan- with flavors of tropical fruit, crisp green apple and cit- VINHO VERDE gled into the firm structure on the finish. Laurel Im- rus, with a toast and spice contrast. Give this 3−4 years porters. —R.V. Casca Wines 2011 Monte Cascas Colhei- of aging. Laurel Importers. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $25 87 ta (Vinho Verde). For a Vinho Verde, this is ripe and creamy. It bears attractive minerality and cit- Wines & Winemakers 2010 Andreza Luis Duarte 2010 Rapariga da Quinta rusy acidity, with a smooth texture and a touch of exotic 90 Grande Reserva Branco (Douro). This 92 Branco (Alentejano). A full-bodied wine, fruit. Laurel Importers. —R.V. is a toast- and spice-laden wine that has richness and this is powered by toast and rich yellow fruit. It is abv: 11.5% Price: $NA smooth, creamy fruit notes. It’s balanced with firm acid- stylish, with its fruit elegantly integrated into the com- ity that adds to the vanilla and white fruit flavors. Deli- Solar de Pinheiro 2011 Paço de São Lou- plex structure. Acidity comes in on the finish, adding a cious now, but it will age. Amara Wines LLC. —R.V. renço (Vinho Verde). fresh character to this ageworthy wine. Laurel Import- 87 This is a grapefruit- abv: 14% Price: $NA ers. Best Buy. —R.V. and apple-flavored wine with a lively prickle on the abv: NA Price: $15 palate. Bright and dry, this is sharpened by a citrus fla- Casca Wines 2010 Monte Cascas Colhei- vor and acidity. Ready to drink. Laurel Importers. Best 89 ta (Douro). Attractively touched by wood, this Fitapreta Vinhos 2009 Palpite Branco Buy. —R.V. is a round and spicy wine. A yellow fruit flavor is edged 91 (Alentejano). This smooth, rich, wood-aged abv: 12.5% Price: $12 with a kiwi note, lending a good balance between rich- wine has concentrated, ripe yellow-fruit flavors, with a ness and crispness. Ripe and full, this could age a year José Maria da Fonseca 2011 Twin Vines vanilla-wood accent and a pinch of nutmeg. It finishes or two. Laurel Importers. —R.V. (Vinho Verde). warm and rounded. Winebridge Imports. —R.V. 86 With a distinct pop of gas as it abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $40 is opened, this light, fruity and lightly sweet wine is a classic summer refresher. Citrus and green apple fruits Duorum 2011 Tons de Duorum Branco Fitapreta Vinhos 2010 Branco da Talha abound. Screwcap. Palm Bay International. —R.V. 88 (Douro). Herbaceous and richly crisp, its acid- 90 (Alentejano). Fermented in earthenware am- abv: 10% Price: $NA ity is tangy with mineral undertones and bright green- phoras by winemaker Antonion Maçanita, this is a wine and white-fruit flavors. This is delicious and fruity, with Cavipor 2011 Vinhas Altas (Vinho Verde). that starts both herbal and fruity, showing a medicinal a great final zing. Winebow. Best Buy. —R.V. flavor and an attractive oxidative note. With its taut tex- 85 This has attractive apple and citrus fruits,with a abv: 13% Price: $10 ture, this is both fascinating and delicious. Winebridge crisp structure and some sweetness on the finish. Mid- Herdade da Comporta 2011 Branco (Se- Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Atlantic Sales Group. —R.V. 10% $NA abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: Price: 88 tubal). Round and ripe, this balances rich white- and yellow-fruit flavors with fine lime and pink

WineMag.com | 39 grapefruit acidity. The result is balanced and fruity, with certainly rich but also elegant. For aging over 3−4 years. a fine, crisp finish. Value Vines LLC. —R.V. ALENTEJANO REDS Saraiva Enterprises. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA Fitapreta Vinhos 2008 Palpite Reserva abv: 14% Price: $NA 93 (Alentejano). Concentrated and impressive, Parras Vinhos 2010 Quinta do Gradil this has dark fruit and layers of wood, with a dense tex- Herdade de São Miguel 2009 Herdade 88 Viognier (Lisboa). A floral, ripe and full of ture. Dominated by its opulent black fruits, this full- 90 da Pimenta (Alentejano). This is firm, with sweet yellow-fruit flavors, this is round, with its softness bodied wine is sustained by its tannins and acids. It a dense dark-plum flavor and craggy tannins. It is very balanced by some acidity. Flavors of green plum skins should age for many years. Winebridge Imports. Cellar rich, although its acidity sustains some freshness. Ripe and apples add tang. Grape Moments. —R.V. Selection. —R.V. and juicy, this can age for 3−4 years. Tri-Vin Imports. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $40 —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $17 José Maria da Fonseca 2011 Periqui- Luis Duarte 2010 Rapariga da Quinta 87 ta Branco (Setubal). Attractive, clean and 93 Reserva (Alentejano). Mint and black fruit Herdade de São Miguel 2005 Herdade da fruity, this has pear and peach flavors; its aromatic aromas follow through to a wine that has intensity and 90 Pimenta Grande Escolha (Alentejano). intensity comes from the 30% Viognier in the blend. structured power. It is currently revealing as much tan- This is a concentrated wine, with medicinal and herbal This is smooth, with just a bite of citrusy acidity on the nin as fruit, although the dark plum flavors are plenty characters alongside the tarry fruit flavor and firm tan- finish. Screwcap. Palm Bay International. —R.V. rich. This complex wine needs aging over 4−5 years. nins. It is rich, still needing some time to develop; the abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Laurel Importers. Cellar Selection. —R.V. wood is layerd on the spicy aftertaste. Tri-Vin Imports. abv: 14% Price: $24 —R.V. Parras Vinhos 2010 Quinta do Gradil abv: 14.5% Price: $41 87 (Lisboa). A powerful wine—this is a blend of Cortes de Cima 2010 Homenagem a Arinto and Sauvignon Blanc. It feels rich, ripe and full 92 Hans Christian Andersen Syrah (Alente- J. Portugal Ramos 2010 Ramos Premium bodied, with flavors of yellow fruit and sweet grapefruit. jano). This is perfumed and fruity, with notes of raisins, 90 (Alentejano). Rich and concentrated, this of- The warm, round finish is spiced up with red apple acid- prunes and bitter chocolate that are supported by sol- fers dense blackberry fruit and firm tannins that need to ity. Grape Moments. —R.V. id tannins. For aging over 2−3 years. Tri-Vin Imports. soften. With age, this wine’s powerful fruit will develop abv: 14% Price: $NA Cellar Selection. —R.V. as will its wood-aged character and depth of flavor. Give abv: 14% Price: $38 it 4−5 years. Winebow. —R.V. Herdade da Comporta 2010 Châo das abv: 14% Price: $20 86 Rolas Branco (Setubal). Soft, round and Fitapreta Vinhos 2008 Preta (Alenteja- full, this has soft yellow-fruit flavors that merge with 91 no). Densely tannic, this has notes of licorice Luis Duarte 2010 Rapariga da Quinta lime and red apple notes. It ends with a warm finish. and dark chocolate. It has obvious richness and weight 90 Colheita Selecciondada (Alentejano). Value Vines LLC. —R.V. that give a sweetness to the damson flavor and acidity. Structured, elegant and fruity, this has a ripe black fruit abv: 12.5% Price: $NA The juicy character of this ageworthy wine powers right flavor and a spiced-wood accent, with soft tannins that through to the finish. Winebridge Imports. Cellar Se- lend shape to a wine that is already delicious enough to J. Portugal Ramos 2011 Marquês de Bor- lection. —R.V. drink. Laurel Importers. Best Buy. —R.V. 86 ba Branco (Alentejo). This wine is bright, abv: 14% Price: $50 abv: 14% Price: $15 fragrant and fruity, with a clean green-fruit and citrus character that’s lively and attractive. Winebow. —R.V. Herdade de São Miguel 2010 Touriga Na- Parras Vinhos 2009 Casa Brancas Reser- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 91 cional (Alentejano). With its dusty tannins 90 va (Alentejano). Packed with the warm rich- and tarry black-fruit character, this is a firm and struc- ness of Alentejo, this is a dense, solidly tannic wine. It Parras Vinhos 2010 Castelo do Sulco tured wine. It has a juicy berry flavor, yet it’s absorbed has power and weight, with a dark chocolate flavor and 85 Arinto (Lisboa). Rich and rounded, thismiss- into the structure. With all this density, it’s a wine for ag- a bone-dry core. Concentrated and rich, with a sweet es the crispness of good Arinto. It is warm and fat, with a ing over at least four years. Saraiva Enterprises. Cellar finish. Grape Moments. —R.V. white fruit flavor and a pleasant touch of acidity. Grape Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA Moments. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $NA J. Portugal Ramos 2010 Vila Santa Reser- Cortes de Cima 2009 Reserva (Alenteja- 89 va (Alentejano). This is ripe, spicy and red 90 no). A powerful wine—this is striated with dark fruited, packing considerable fruitiness from the fla- ROSÉ fruits and tannins. The fruit is layered with an impres- vors of juicy berries and the comfortable bed of tannins. Herdade da Comporta 2011 Rosé (Se- sive feel of wood aging. Solid and very ageworthy, this With its acidity and bright finish, it could age 2−3 years, 84 tubal). This is a caramel-scented wine, with a should keep for 3−4 years. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. but is ready to drink now. Winebow. —R.V. wild strawberry flavor and light acidity. It is crisp, fruity abv: 14% Price: $62 abv: 14% Price: $20 and fragrant. Value Vines LLC. —R.V. Cortes de Cima 2010 Red (Alentejano). abv: 13% Price: $NA Fitapreta Vinhos 2010 Reserva (Alen- 90 tejano). Rich and full bodied, this is a warm, 88 Fruit and barnyard flavors combine to give a José Maria da Fonseca 2011 Periquita rounded wine. It has superrich black fruits that push wine that, while on the rustic side, still has an attractive 83 Rosé (Setubal). Vivid pink in color and taste, right through the tannic shell, adding a juicy character juicy quality. It is full bodied; its acidity combines with a this lightly sweet rosé has intense acidity as well as a to a wine that will need several years to mature. On the ripe plum flavor. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. fresh strawberry flavor. Screwcap. Palm Bay Interna- finish, acidity and a dried fruit flavor combine with firm abv: 14% Price: $20 tional. —R.V. tannins. Winebridge Imports. —R.V. Herdade de São Miguel 2010 Syrah abv: 11.5% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $19 88 (Alentejano). A bold, ripe wine that shows Quinta da Alorna 2011 Rosé (Tejo). A Herdade de São Miguel 2010 Touriga fruitiness. While there is some tannic structure behind 84 caramel aroma is followed by sweet strawberry 90 Franca (Alentejano). A finely structured all the rich plum fruit and acidity, the attraction is all up fruit from the Touriga Nacional, lending a wine that is wine that has serious tannins as well as red berry fruits. front and ready to go. Saraiva Enterprises. —R.V. freshly fruity and soft. Grape Moments. —R.V. It is dense with a strong minerally, chewy texture; it’s abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $12

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 J. Portugal Ramos 2011 Ramos Reserva age this wine for 2−3 years and more. Deutsch Family Parras Vinhos 2009 Castelo do Sulco 88 (Alentejano). It might be called Reserva, but Wine & Spirits. —R.V. 84 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lisboa). This fruity in fact this is a fruity, ready-to-drink wine. Its forward abv: 14% Price: $24 wine is light in texture. It has gentle tannins, with bit- berry flavor and attractive acidity combine easily and terness and a stalky character that brings out the acidity. brightly. Winebow. Best Buy. —R.V. Wines & Winemakers 2009 Andreza Grape Moments. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 91 Reserva (Douro). A serious, complex wine— abv: 14% Price: $NA this has dark, firm tannins that structure the flavors of Parras Vinhos 2010 Casa Brancas (Alen- dense black fruit, spice and herb. This intense wine 88 tejano). Sweet fruit, coupled with a core of needs to age for at least four years. Iberia Wine & Spir- TEJO REDS Cellar Selection. firm tannins form a wine that is dense and juicy. It has its LLC. —R.V. Quinta da Alorna 2009 Reserva Touri- abv: 14% Price: $NA fine layers of acidity, with black plum and chocolate fla- ga Nacional-Cabernet Sauvignon (Tejo). vors and a finish that’s smooth yet still firm. Grape Mo- 92 Powerful and concentrated, this is a serious wine that ments. —R.V. Casca Wines 2009 Monte Cascas Reser- remains juicy and fruity. The wine has a dense, dry core abv: 14% Price: $NA va (Douro). Big and fruity, this has a juicy 89 surrounded by rich plum and damson flavors, with a blackberry flavor that’s leavened with a herbal tang. It spice note from the new wood. The firm edge means J. Portugal Ramos 2011 Loios Tinto is warm and rounded—the fruit right up front. Given it will age over several years. Grape Moments. Cellar (Alentejano). An easy, fruity wine, this is full this soft texture, the wine will age quickly and is ready 87 Selection. —R.V. of blackberry and red currant flavors. Its fruitiness is to drink. Laurel Importers. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $20 tempered with a firm tannic core that gives a light struc- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Best Buy. ture. Winebow. —R.V. Caves Velhas 2008 Cabeça de Toiro abv: 14% Price: $10 Parras Vinhos 2010 Rio Real (Douro). Reserva (Tejo). For full review see page 10. This is a serious, rich, fruity wine. It has a 91 89 Best Buy. Cortes de Cima 2011 Chaminé (Alente- sense of power and concentration; the black fruits push abv: 13.5% Price: $15 86 jano). Forward, fruity and crisp, this is an at- against the firm tannins. Nutmeg and blueberry notes tractive wine. It’s red berry flavor and bright acidity is mix with tense acidity on the finish. Grape Moments. Quinta da Alorna 2009 Tinto (Tejo). Warm layered with smoky tannins. Not for aging, so drink over —R.V. and fruity, this has plum and loganberry flavors the next 2−3 years. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA 88 that are supported by some tannins. The wine has rich- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 ness, spice from wood and red fruit acidity. With its tan- Wines & Winemakers 2009 Azul Portugal nins, it would be worth aging this for a year. Grape Mo- Cortes de Cima 2009 Incógnito Syrah Reserva (Douro). Big, tannic and bold wine, 89 ments. Best Buy. —R.V. (Alentejano). An initial earthy aroma follows this has ripe black fruits and sweet tannins, with a firm, 85 abv: 13.5% Price: $11 through to the palate that is full and fruity, with a bit- mineral edge. Richness and structure combine to form ter edge. Flavors of licorice and berry combine to give a a dense wine that should age for over three years. Ama- Wines & Winemakers 2009 Azul Portu- wine that is now ready to drink. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. ra Wines LLC. —R.V. gal Tinto (Tejo). A rich and fruity wine that abv: 14.5% Price: $80 abv: 14% Price: $NA 87 marries damson and blackberry flavors with a juicy, smoked-bacon character. It has weight, richness and Parras Vinhos 2010 Montaria (Alente- a forward, ready-to-drink finish. Iberia Wine & Spirits jano). This is an attractive, fruity wine that’s LISBOA REDS 85 LLC. —R.V. dominated by black currant and damson flavors. It is Parras Vinhos 2009 Casa das Gaeiras abv: 14% Price: $NA layered with acidity and light tannins. Drink this year. (Lisboa). Very firm in character, this is a solid, Grape Moments. Best Buy. —R.V. 90 tannin-driven wine that’s packed with dark fruit. With Parras Vinhos 2010 Caval Bravo (Tejo). abv: 13% Price: $9 its density, black plum flavor and concentration, it is still 85 Soft and fruity, this has just a touch of tannins young and ready to age for at least five years. Grape Mo- to go with the flavors of spice, blueberry and caramel. DOURO REDS ments. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Ready to drink. Screwcap. Grape Moments. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Quinta do Vale Meão 2009 Red (Douro). 95 With its concentration and dark tannins, this is Parras Vinhos 2009 Gaeiras Colheita Se- a wine that will need many years of aging. It is a serious 89 leccionada (Lisboa). Rich red fruits, wood OTHER RED WINES combination of great style and great power. From one flavors and smooth tannins combine in this ripe wine. It Vinha Paz 2009 Reserva (Dão). At this of the top Douro vineyards, this is a wine with an im- has flavors of spice, blackberry juice, plum and mulber- stage, the wine is young and closed up. It only pressive, long-lasting sense of presence. Deutsch Fam- ry. There is a dry edge of firmness to hold it all together. 94 hints at the powerful fruit and tannins that lie under the ily Wine & Spirits. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Grape Moments. —R.V. surface. For those with patience, this will be a serious, abv: 14.5% Price: $75 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA concentrated, terroir-driven wine, offering considerable aging. Laurel Importers. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Quinta de São José 2009 Reserva (Dou- Parras Vinhos 2009 Castelo do Sulco abv: 14.5% Price: $35 93 ro). This exhibits a dark, brooding structure 88 Reserva (Lisboa). Firm and dense, this has that underlies the rich and dense fruit. Flavors of choco- flavors of intense spice and red berry, with solid, dark Herdade da Comporta 2009 Parus Tinto late and licorice add another element, bringing together tannins. It is big, rounded and concentrated. This is (Setubal). Deep and concentrated, this is still a wine that will need many years of aging. Laurel Im- likely to age. Grape Moments. —R.V. 92 young and boasting the ripe fruit from the vintage. A porters. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 blend of , Aragonez and Touriga Na- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA cional, it has weight and dark tannins, with a blackberry Parras Vinhos 2009 Castelo do Sulco flavor. With its acidity and structure, this is a wine for Quinta do Vale Meão 2009 Meandro do (Lisboa). Attractive and open, this has sweet 85 aging. Value Vines LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Vale Meão (Douro). The second wine from fruit and a fresh character. With bright acids and hedge- 91 abv: 14% Price: $NA the Vale Meão estate is a powerful statement. Dense, row fruits, it is ready to drink. Grape Moments. —R.V. spicy wood is layered with acidity and flavors of dark abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Vinha Paz 2010 Colheita (Dão). Minerally berry and red stone fruit. With its huge concentration, 89 in texture, this has a core of firm tannin, with

WineMag.com | 41 streaks of red fruit and acidity. It is always going to be a fruit, spice and nut are beginning to mature. This is a turity, but it still promises to age for several years. Its firm, dry wine. Laurel Importers. —R.V. rich effort, and it could age longer. Martine’s Wines. crisp flavors of green and white fruits are merging into abv: 14% Price: $19 Cellar Selection. —R.V. notes of toast, yeast and herb. It shows a mineral texture abv: NA Price: $59 and tense acidity. Quintessential Wines. Cellar Selec- Herdade da Comporta 2008 Tinto (Setub- tion. —R.V. 87 al). Rounded and soft, this is a red-fruited wine. Martin Schaetzel 2010 Kaefferkopf Grand abv: 12.5% Price: $50 There is a strong element of spicy wood lending dryness 92 Cru Riesling (Alsace). Fresh and juicy ini- and a cinnamon note, which goes well with the young, tially, it then develops a fuller, more complex charac- Jean-Marc Bernhard 2010 Schlossberg bright fruits and acids. Value Vines LLC. —R.V. ter. It has weight and richness, with flavors of spice and 91 Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). Smooth and abv: 14% Price: $NA yellow fruit and a streak of a citrus. There is good con- rich, this is a wine with both a present and a future. It centration in this intense, full-bodied and ageworthy is full, bearing flavors of spice and sweet fruits, with J. Portugal Ramos 2011 Marquês de Bor- wine. AP Wine Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. a tangy character. This will give great pleasure in 3–4 86 ba Tinto (Alentejo). A reliable and immedi- abv: NA Price: $NA years. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —R.V. ately enjoyable wine, this is full of ripe and juicy fruit. abv: NA Price: $NA With soft tannins and layered acidity, it has a bright and Bott Frères 2009 Kirchberg de Ribeauvil- lively finish. Winebow. —R.V. 91 lé Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). Only just Trimbach 2009 Riesling (Alsace). For full abv: 14% Price: $15 coming together, this has some richness and an expres- 91 review see page 7. sive perfumed character. With its fine depth of flavor, abv: 13% Price: $25 Herdade da Comporta 2010 Châo das a hint of spice and complexity, it’s a wine that will age 83 Rolas Tinto (Setubal). Rustic, barnyard aro- over several years. Imperial Beverage. Cellar Selec- Domaine Albert Mann 2010 Furstentum mas lead onto the palate that is soft and fruity, with a tion. —R.V. 90 Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). A big, full bitter, vegetal edge. With only a modicum of tannin, this abv: NA Price: $NA bodied wine, this has power and some concentration. is a wine for drinking soon. Value Vines LLC. —R.V. The weight comes from the intensity of rich fruit. Hints abv: 14% Price: $NA Domaine Bott-Geyl 2010 Schlossberg of spice, white currant and stewed pear are absorbed by 91 Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). Warm and the taut structure. This is a wine with aging potential. rich, this has flavors of spices and apricots, with a good Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. ALSACE concentrated character. Rich and powerful, it is full on abv: NA Price: $NA the palate and needs more time to develop. Winebow. RIESLING Cellar Selection. —R.V. Domaine Albert Mann 2010 Schlossberg abv: NA Price: $NA 90 Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). Concen- Domaines Schlumberger 2008 Kessler trated and full bodied wine, this has weight and ripe 93 Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). Beautifully Domaine Mersiol 2009 Frankstein Grand yellow- and white-fruit flavors, cut with acidity and a balanced and racy, this is packed with spice and juicy 91 Cru Riesling (Alsace). This is ripe, with its shaft of steel. Around the tough core, the wine is softer fruit flavors. It layers currants and fresh fruits with a ma- rich and concentrated character still developing. As it and richer. Still aging, this needs 2–3 years. Weygandt- ture hint of toast. This finishes with a fine swathe of deli- ages, its depth of flavor will lend a mineral texture, with Metzler. —R.V. cious fruit. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. rich mango and pineapple fruits and taut acidity. Age abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA over the next 5–6 years. Ansonia Wines. Cellar Selec- tion. —R.V. Domaine Gresser 2008 Wiebelsberg Domaines Schlumberger 2008 Saering abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 90 Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). This is well 93 Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). Schlumberg- aged and attractively packaged with its ripe fruits and er’s practice of aging wine before release means that this Domaine Sipp-Mack 2009 Tradition Ries- more mature almond and yeast flavors. The wine has is a Riesling well on the way to impressive maturity. It 91 ling (Alsace). A fine, well-developed wine good intensity to go with its taut and tangy character. is poised, with an aroma of currant and hints of toast that’s dry and rich. It has weight and power, with a Drink over the next 2–3 years. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. and flower. While drinkable now, this would certainly be concentrated apple flavor and the beginnings of a ma- abv: NA Price: $53 worth aging for several more years. Maisons Marques & ture character. Drink now, or give the wine a few more Domaines USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V. months. Bacchus Imports, Inc. —R.V. Domaine Vincent Stoeffler 2010 Tradition abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA 90 Riesling (Alsace). A taut, textured wine— this is steely, with a good mineral character. With its René Muré 2010 Kaefferkopf Clos Saint Domaine Vincent Stoeffler 2010 Kirch- dry, citrus character and tense acidity, it’s an impressive 93 Landelin Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). 91 berg de Barr Grand Cru Riesling (Al- Riesling for aging. Keep this for at least 2 years. Mas- This wine has loads of fruit, with a complex steely sace). This is a really fruity wine, with a mineral sanois Imports. —R.V. and racy texture. With its weight and intensity, this is depth that lends a crisp feel. The wine is taut, balancing abv: NA Price: $NA likely to develop slowly. Give it at least four years. Rob- its steely character with citrus flavors. Massanois Im- ert Kacher Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V. ports. —R.V. Domaine Viticole de la Ville de Colmar abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $NA 90 2009 Hengst Grand Cru Riesling (Al- sace). This is a well-balanced wine that attracts imme- Domaine Charles Baur 2010 Eichberg Domaine Vincent Stoeffler 2010 diately with its generous fruit balanced with tangy acid- 92 Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). Big and ripe, 91 Schoenenbourg Grand Cru Riesling (Al- ity and fine citrus flavors. Crisp and concentrated, this this has flavors of apricots and stewed green plums, with sace). Rich, ripe and perfumed this also remains fresh is meant for aging over several years. Deutsch Family a fine zing of acidity. It shows weight and richness, with and crisp. It’s full of green fruit, citrus and apricot fla- Wine & Spirits. —R.V. a taut, nervy outer shell that demands aging. Age this vors. This is an elegant wine that deserves to age over abv: NA Price: $NA for 3–4 years. Grape News Importing. Cellar Selec- several years. Massanois Imports. Cellar Selection. tion. —R.V. —R.V. Jean Becker 2009 Froehn Grand Cru abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 90 Riesling (Alsace). Balanced and showing some maturity, this is a toasty, ripe wine. It is fruity, with Domaine Gresser 2008 Kastelberg Grand Gustave Lorentz 2007 Altenberg de Ber- some weight, while keeping remaining poised and crisp. 92 Cru Riesling (Alsace). Full bodied and ripe, 91 gheim Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes Riesling Packed with just the right tang of acidity, it is already this also has a dry, taut intensity. The flavors of white (Alsace). A delicious wine that’s now approaching ma-

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 delicious, but should age over several years. Ideal Wine Joseph Cattin 2011 Riesling (Alsace). tight acidity. Age this for several more months before and Spirits Co. Inc. —R.V. 89 Firm and steely, this has a tight character that’s drinking. Planet Wine. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA dominated by citrusy acidity, with a hint of floral per- abv: NA Price: $NA fume. Clean, fruity and tight, this will need a few years Louis Sipp 2008 Nature’S Riesling (Al- of aging. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. Domaine Charles Baur 2009 Brand 90 sace). This is dry and very crisp, with a taut, abv: NA Price: $NA 88 Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). Smooth, rich nervy texture. It has a tight, tangy character, with a and silky, this is attractively lifted by yeast and almond youthful feel. A great food-friendly wine, this should Joseph Cattin 2010 Hatschbourg Grand flavors. It’s rounded and full bodied, and it’s developing age for several years. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. 89 Cru Riesling (Alsace). Rich and soft, this is a fast. Drink this within the year. Grape News Import- abv: NA Price: $NA wine that’s developing fast. It has the right weight, with ing. —R.V. flavors of yellow fruits, mangos and white stone fruits. abv: NA Price: $NA Martin Schaetzel 2010 Riesling (Alsace). Its attractive fruitiness dominates, while the more tangy 90 Taut, tight and tangy, this has a great zing of cit- aspects that characterize Riesling are missing. T. Ed- Domaine François Schmitt 2010 Riesling rus and spice. The texture is still young, with a lime fla- ward Wines Ltd. —R.V. 88 (Alsace). A pure, fruity wine, this delights with vor, hinting at the creamy character to come. Give this abv: NA Price: $NA its crisp apple- and pear-skin flavors. This is finely tex- wine two more years. AP Wine Imports. —R.V. tured, with acidity and a fine, fresh character that gives abv: NA Price: $NA Kuentz-Bas 2010 Tradition Ries- lift to the rounded flavors. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. 89 ling (Alsace). This is a juicy, lemon- and abv: NA Price: $NA André Blanck et Fils 2010 Schlossberg yellow-fruit-flavored wine. There’s fine acidity, creat- 89 Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). This is a ing a wine with plenty of freshness and richness. Kermit Domaine Marcel Deiss 2010 Riesling concentrated wine that’s full of apricot and apple fla- Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. 88 (Alsace). Very perfumed, this has a floral vors. It has a steely, tight core as well as rich fruit. It’s abv: NA Price: $17 character that’s allied to a creamed-apple flavor. It’s soft full and still needs time to develop. Vineyard Research. and fruity—a quickly developing wine. With its open —R.V. Marc Kreydenweiss 2010 Andlau texture, it is already delicious. Angels’ Share Wine Im- abv: NA Price: $NA 89 Riesling (Alsace). This is an apple- and ports, LLC. —R.V. grapefruit-flavored wine, with fine acidity and a live- abv: NA Price: $NA Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2009 ly texture of spices and almonds. The finish bears a 89 The Furst Grand Cru Schlossberg Ries- flower character. Ready to drink. Grape Expectations Domaine Sipp-Mack 2010 Vieilles Vignes ling (Alsace). For full review see page 8. (CA). —R.V. 88 Riesling (Alsace). This is a full, fruity wine. abv: 12.5% Price: $28 abv: NA Price: $NA It’s ripe and packed with currant, green plum and pink grapefruit flavors. There are hints of almond and deli- Domaine Bernhard-Reibel 2008 Weingar- Ruhlmann 2007 Frankstein Grand Cru cate flower aromas. The soft finish has more ripe, deli- 89 ten Riesling (Alsace). This full-bodied wine 89 Riesling (Alsace). Rich, round and full bod- cious fruit. Bacchus Imports, Inc. —R.V. shows maturity and weight. Its flavors of currants and ied, this is ready to drink. It has weight, with flavors of abv: NA Price: $NA dried plums are balanced by notes of toast and yeast. ripe fruit, toast and piles of spice. Drink now. Biagio Not for aging, this offers fine drinking pleasure now. Tru Cru & Estate Wines, LLC. —R.V. Dopff & Irion 2008 Domaine du Château Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA 88 de Riquewihr Les Murailles Riesling (Al- abv: NA Price: $NA sace). A very fruity wine, boasting perfumed white Vignoble des 2 Lunes 2009 Genèse Ries- fruit and some minerality. The acidity is tight, racy and Domaine Ernest Burn 2009 Riesling (Al- 89 ling (Alsace). This is classically perfumed and crisp, and it’s just beginning to fill out. Currently, this 89 sace). This has sweetness, with flavors of ripe floral, with an extra burst of richness. It bears flavors of tastes like it’s between youth and maturity. Dreyfus, currants and plums and a touch of orange marmalade. white and red currants, with intense, tangy acidity. For Ashby & Co. —R.V. It is warm, ripe and already opulent. Drink this over the aging over 3–4 years, this has a medium-term future. abv: NA Price: $NA next two years. Encore Wine Imports. —R.V. Superb Wine International LLC. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Gustave Lorentz 2010 Réserve Riesling 88 (Alsace). An attractive hint of spice leads to a Domaine Vincent Stoeffler 2009 Muhl- Cave de Beblenheim 2010 Baron de crisp, fresh wine, with citrus and apple flavors. It has a 89 forst Riesling (Alsace). While the first signs 88 Hoen Riesling (Alsace). Full and fruity, mineral edge, with a taut texture and intense acidity on of maturity are showing, the wine also retains fresh cur- this is already a delicious wine. A note of tangy citrus the finish. Screwcap. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. rant and pear flavors. It is warm, rounded and ripe, with enlivens the apple and pear flavors. This has weight abv: 12.5% Price: $24 some yeast and toast notes as well as touches of spiced and an intense texture, with warm acidity and a touch pear and baked apples. Massanois Imports. —R.V. of spice on the finish. The Other Wine & Spirits. Best Jean-Baptiste Adam 2011 Réserve Ries- abv: NA Price: $NA Buy. —R.V. 88 ling (Alsace). Pure, clean and fresh, this has abv: NA Price: $12 bright lime and grapefruit flavors that are lined with Domaine Weinbach 2010 Cuvée Théo acidity. The wine has a touch of perfume and is at- 89 Riesling (Alsace). A wine that combines a Cave de Hunawihr 2010 Rosacker Grand tractively balanced. This is developing quickly. Artisan tangy citrus character with currant and kiwi flavors, this 88 Cru Riesling (Alsace). Ripe and fruity, this Vines Distributing. —R.V. is ripe, full bodied and open. Although it’s ready to drink has weight that’s balanced by a mineral, steely character. abv: NA Price: $NA now, it could age over several years. Vineyard Brands. A taut, tight character emerges, and the concentrated —R.V. citrus and pineapple flavors complete the mix. Age this Leon Beyer 2010 Riesling (Alsace). This is abv: NA Price: $NA for 3–4 years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. 88 a tight, tangy wine, and its fruit is still develop- abv: NA Price: $NA ing. In the future, it will have a steely, nervy character, Gustave Lorentz 2009 Burg Ries- with its fruit showing more citrus. Aveniù Brands, Inc. 89 ling (Alsace). A rich wine that’s full of ripe Cave de Ribeauvillé 2010 Les Comtes —R.V. creamed-pear and apricot flavors, this has an open feel 88 de Ribeauvillé Riesling (Alsace). Full and abv: NA Price: $NA that contrasts with tangy, mineral acidity. Quintessential round, this is a rich wine, with a fine, tangy texture. Wines. —R.V. There is a core of lime and other citrus flavors, with Willm 2009 Kirchberg de Barr Grand Cru abv: 13.5% Price: $30 88 Riesling (Alsace). This is already mature. It

WineMag.com | 43 has weight and demonstrates a delicious balance be- sace). Apple and pear flavors dominate this attractive Domaine Riefle 2008 Steinert Grand Cru tween a ripe white-fruit flavor and fresh acidity, with a wine. It has a simple, fruit-forward character, and it’s 86 Riesling (Alsace). Orange and mandarin fla- fine note of tangy citrus. Ready to drink. Monsieur Tou- soft, rounded and developing well. On the finish, a more vors mark this warm, full-bodied wine. It’s forward and ton Selection Ltd. —R.V. tangy, fresh character shows. Deutsch Family Wine & fruity, showing a sweeter character, with vanilla and abv: NA Price: $NA Spirits. —R.V. spice tones. Drink soon. Maritime Wine Trading Col- abv: NA Price: $NA lective. —R.V. Wolfberger 2011 Signature Riesling (Al- abv: NA Price: $35 88 sace). Closed and mineral at this stage, this is Henri Schoenheitz 2009 Riesling (Al- will develop well into a crisp, ripe, lemon-scented wine, 87 sace). Apple and peach flavors are mixed with Dopff Au Moulin 2011 Riesling (Alsace). with a hint of yellow fruit and attractive acidity. Give it a tangy character, leavened with notes of almond and 86 Perfumed and rounded, this has fine acidity and at least a year. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. toast. With its attractive maturity, it is ready to drink. OZ a warm, sunny feel. Flavors of apples and pears are cut abv: NA Price: $NA Wine Company. —R.V. through with a lime juice note, yielding a balanced wine abv: NA Price: $NA that will develop quickly. Heritage Wine Cellars. —R.V. Boeckel 2010 Brandluft Riesling (Al- abv: NA Price: $NA 87 sace). Along with fine, tight acidity, the wine Mittnacht Frères 2009 Rosacker Grand has a good green-fruit character. This is taut, nervy and 87 Cru Riesling (Alsace). This is a soft, forward F. Mallo et Fils 2008 Réserve Spéciale full of fine acidity, and it’s attractively perfumed. Ready wine that has developed fast. It has attractive fruit and 86 Riesling (Alsace). This is attractive and ma- to drink. —R.V. weight, yet it misses the typical raciness of Riesling. ture, with a light touch and flavors of currants mingling abv: NA Price: $NA Drink over the next year. Daniel Johnnes Wines. —R.V. with almonds. Soft yet tangy, this is very ready to drink. abv: NA Price: $NA USA Wine Imports. —R.V. Bott Frères 2010 Réserve Riesling (Al- abv: NA Price: $NA 87 sace). This rich wine boasts perfumed acidity René Muré 2010 Signature Riesling (Al- as well as a juicy white-fruit flavor. It feels full in the 87 sace). A smooth and creamy wine—this is Hugel 2010 Riesling (Alsace). While it mouth, weighty, although a more steely edge is never rounded and soft. The citrus edge is cushioned by a rich 86 does not have strong intensity, this is a wine that far away. Imperial Beverage. —R.V. apricot and pineapple character. As the wine opens, it packs pleasure. It is fruity and rounded, with plenty of abv: NA Price: $NA also develops a vanilla flavor, followed by a burst of acid- green apple and white fruit flavors. There is an attrac- ity on the finish. Screwcap. Robert Kacher Selections. tive tang of citrus that adds lift to the finish. Enjoy soon. Cave de Hunawihr 2011 Riesling (Al- —R.V. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. 87 sace). Round and full-bodied, this has a spice abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA note and a perfumed, floral character. The wine is bright, still rather tight, needing a few months to de- André Blanck et Fils 2011 Riesling (Al- Hugel 2007 Jubilée Riesling (Alsace). velop. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. 86 sace). Fruity and apple flavored, it has a 86 Now at its drinking peak, this has attractive abv: NA Price: $NA creamy texture, followed by an attractive hint of spice acidity balanced by mature flavors. It has weight, rich- and a tight line of crisp acidity. Vineyard Research. ness and a dry, steely core Enjoy this with food or by it- Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2009 —R.V. self. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. 87 The Furst Riesling (Alsace). This is a ripe, abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA rich wine, with an open yellow-fruit flavor. It has weight that lends a full-bodied character. While missing a more Boeckel 2010 Réserve Riesling (Alsace). Arthur Metz 2008 Steinklotz Grand Cru nervy character, it gives warm pleasure. Eagle Eye Im- 86 This is a steely wine wrapped with white and 85 Riesling (Alsace). This shows intense flavors ports. —R.V. green fruit flavors. It is clean, bright and full of pear and of spice, orange marmalade and lime. It is developing abv: NA Price: $17 crisp apple notes. The tangy after taste is floral. Ready quickly. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. to drink in six months. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA Domaine Michel Fonne 2010 Tradition abv: NA Price: $NA 87 Riesling (Alsace). Creamed pear- and ap- Domaine Bernhard-Reibel 2009 Vieilles ple-skin flavors give a wine that has warm acidity, with Domaine Barmes-Buecher 2009 Tradition 85 Vignes Riesling (Alsace). Round and full- touches of vanilla and almond. This is warm, rounded 86 Riesling (Alsace). This has richness, weight bodied, this has warm apricot and ripe pineapple fla- and full bodied, with a tang of citrusy acidity that hints and some sweetness, with almond and toast notes. The vors. It has weight and richness, with a touch of toast at its aging potential. Scott Levy Selection. —R.V. fruit flavors are of yellow and white fruits. This is attrac- and a smoky finish. Tru Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA tive and ready to drink. Petit Pois. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA Domaine Robert Klingenfus 2011 Signa- Domaine Gresser 2011 Kritt Riesling (Al- 87 ture Riesling (Alsace). Showing fine acidity, Domaine Fernand Engel 2010 Réserve 85 sace). A tight wine—this has acidity and a firm, this has a creamy texture and a rich, rounded feel. Full 86 Riesling (Alsace). Flavored with white and steely character. It’s taut and lined with a green flavor of pear and creamed-apple flavors, it has some weight red currants, this is a generally soft and warm wine. that powers the crisp apple and grapefruit finish. Mar- and a full-bodied character without losing the crisp Its acidity is ensconced in a rich and creamy texture, tine’s Wines. —R.V. acidity. European Wine Imports. —R.V. touched with vanilla and spice. Grape Expectations abv: NA Price: $29 abv: NA Price: $15 (CA). —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA Henri Schoenheitz 2008 Herrenreben Domaine Schoffit 2010 Harth Tradition 85 Riesling (Alsace). This has a silky texture, 87 Riesling (Alsace). A very tangy wine, this is Domaine Ostertag 2010 Vignoble d’Epfig with weight and richness. Soft and ripe, this has a hint full of lemon zest and crisp apple-skin flavors. It’s attrac- 86 Riesling (Alsace). Spice and cream domi- of spice that’s attractively balanced by tangy acidity. OZ tive, fruity and delightfully laden with almond and pear nate this attractive wine. With its full flavors of spice Wine Company. —R.V. notes. The finish is rounded and fresh; drink this year. and pear, there is a also a hint of flower. An attractive abv: NA Price: $NA Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. wine that is developing quickly. Kermit Lynch Wine abv: NA Price: $NA Merchant. —R.V. Jean Becker 2011 Hagenschlauf Riesling abv: NA Price: $28 85 (Alsace). This is rich both on the nose and on Domaine Viticole de la Ville de Colmar the palate. Full and rounded, it has spice and currant 87 2009 Florimont Grand Cru Riesling (Al-

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 flavors. There is a burnt-almond bitterness that marks Gustave Lorentz 2007 Altenberg de Ber- Dopff & Irion 2010 Tradition Pinot Gris the finish. Ideal Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. —R.V. 90 gheim Grand Cru Pinot Gris (Alsace). 86 (Alsace). Fresh, with an attractive line of acid- abv: NA Price: $NA With its gold color, this looks like an opulent wine—a ity that complements the spice and rich texture. It’s dry fact confirmed on the palate. It remains essentially dry; on the finish, remaining crisp and ripe. This is a real Jean Becker 2009 Kronenbourg Riesling its opulence translated into great swathes of perfumed food wine. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. 85 (Alsace). Medium sweet, this wine has warm tropical fruits. It has weight, the sort of wine to go with abv: NA Price: $NA currant and stewed-pear flavors. It has weight to go rich sauces—or even by itself. Quintessential Wines. with its sweet character. Soft and gentle, this is ready to —R.V. drink. Ideal Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 GEWÜRZTRAMINER abv: NA Price: $NA Domaines Schlumberger 2005 Le Val- Vignoble des 2 Lunes 2009 Sélénite Pi- lon Keisler Grand Cru Gewürztraminer Frey-Sohler 2011 Riesling (Alsace). A not Gris (Alsace). Rich and perfumed, this is 92 90 (Alsace). Taking its name from a small valley in the very perfumed wine, with a thin texture. It has a rotund and smooth wine. It has light spice, followed 84 Keisler Vineyard, this is an opulent, rich and fragrant pure apple-juice flavors that lend a creamy feel, with a by ripe flavors of tropical fruit and almond, with a crisp wine. The rose flavor is integrated into the ripe, spicy soft, rounded finish. J et R Selections. —R.V. layer of acidity. The finish has a full mouthfeel, with a texture. It has a suggestion of dryness, but at the same abv: NA Price: $NA spice note. Superb Wine International LLC. —R.V. time the richness offers a sweeter character. Maisons abv: 14% Price: $NA Ruhlmann 2011 Cuvée Jean-Charles Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA 84 Riesling (Alsace). Tight and firm, this has a Domaine Mersiol 2010 Pinot Gris (Al- perfumed character, with hints of almond and lime juice sace). 89 Although this is dry, the wine’s hon- Vignoble des 2 Lunes 2009 Hatschbourg and a slight bitterness on the finish. Too young at this ey aromas and opulent texture point to richness. It’s Grand Cru Gewürztraminer (Alsace). Rich stage, age this for at least a year. Biagio Cru & Estate smooth, with weight and peach flavor. On the finish, all 92 and spicy, this concentrated wine has sweetness as well Wines, LLC. —R.V. of the richness is balanced by refreshing acidity. Anso- as a light touch of acidity. The lychee and mango char- abv: NA Price: $NA nia Wines. —R.V. acter is prominent, giving a full, smooth feel to this age- abv: 14% Price: $NA Domaine Saint-Rémy 2010 Herrenweg worthy, intense wine. Superb Wine International LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Riesling (Alsace). This feels full and fat, with Dopff & Irion 2008 Domaine du Château 83 abv: 13% Price: $NA almond and apricot skin flavors. Robert Kacher Selec- 89 de Riquewihr Les Maquisards Pinot Gris tions. —R.V. (Alsace). Spicy, with a creamy texture, this has rich- Vignoble des 2 Lunes 2009 Hengst Grand abv: NA Price: $NA ness without being overwhelming. The acidity cuts Cru Gewürztraminer (Alsace). Along with through the wine, lending a combination of richness 92 its richness and opulent sweetness, this wine also has Domaine Bott-Geyl 2010 Schoenenbourg and excellent crispness. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. a fresh orange-zest character. Balance the two aspects 82 Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). The per- abv: NA Price: $NA fumes are slightly unbalanced, tasting confected. The and the wine is a complex, bright and sweet wine that would go with fruit desserts as well as by itself. Beware: fruit seems to be missing. Winebow. —R.V. Domaines Schlumberger 2010 Les Princ- There is no sweetness indication on the label. Superb abv: NA Price: $NA es Abbés Pinot Gris (Alsace). This dry style 88 Wine International LLC. —R.V. of Pinot Gris has a rich character, which allows the spice abv: 12% Price: $NA Louis Sipp 2010 Riesling (Alsace). Rather to come through strongly—the acidity lingering behind. 82 thin on the palate, the wine feels slightly unfo- Flavors of tropical fruits are allied to the smooth, ripe cussed. Drink soon. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. Gustave Lorentz 2007 Altenberg de Ber- finish. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. gheim Grand Cru Gewürztraminer (Al- abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 91 sace). This is a surprisingly reticent wine, with a for- ward spicy character that translates into a more elegant, Gustave Lorentz 2010 Réserve Pinot rounded wine. The acidity and firm structure help to PINOT GRIS Gris (Alsace). Soft and attractively spicy, this 88 texture the lychee flavor. Pair this with food. Quintes- has flavors of fresh apple, exotic mango and kiwi. Along Domaines Schlumberger 2007 Kitter- sential Wines. —R.V. with this fruitiness is a perfumed character that rounds 93 lé Grand Cru Pinot Gris (Alsace). Sweet, abv: 13.5% Price: $60 rich and beautifully rounded, this opulent and mature, out the finish. Screwcap. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $24 with lychee and apricot flavors all tinged by acidity. It Domaines Schlumberger 2009 Les Princ- feels powerful and dense while remaining supremely es Abbés Gewürztraminer (Alsace). Bott Frères 2010 Cuvée Particulière Pi- 88 elegant. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. Rounded and sweet, this is a rich Gewurztraminer not Gris (Alsace). Rich and spicy wine, this abv: 13% Price: $NA 87 that’s full of spice and textured with coconut. It is full in has a smooth character. Just beginning to soften, it feels the mouth—a wine for rich sauces and pâtés. Maisons ripe and full, bearing a white currant flavor, with a pinch Domaine Mersiol 2008 Les Pierres Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. of nutmeg. Imperial Beverage. —R.V. 91 Franches Pinot Gris (Alsace). Ripe, spicy abv: 13% Price: $NA and honeyed, this has an almost-sweet character that abv: NA Price: $NA just remains dry. Its concentrated lychee, apricot and Dopff & Irion 2009 Domaine du Château Domaine Vincent Stoeffler 2011 Pinot sultana flavors meld into the rich, dense texture. Age de Riquewihr Les Sorcières Gewürztra- Gris (Alsace). A wine that hints at spice, this 88 for 3–4 years. Ansonia Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 87 miner (Alsace). Smooth and ripe, this has the warmth is mainly floral, with a yellow fruit flavor and a ripe, full- abv: 14% Price: $NA of 2009, with layers of spice, pepper and ripe apricot bodied feel. Massanois Imports. —R.V. and lychee. The acidity hides underneath, masked by abv: NA Price: $NA Domaine Vincent Stoeffler 2010 Kirch- the rich structure. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. 90 berg de Barr Grand Cru Pinot Gris (Al- abv: NA Price: $NA sace). A full-bodied and fruity wine that’s packed with Joseph Cattin 2010 Tradition Pinot Gris (Alsace). A smooth, just-spicy wine that has acidity as well as smooth, creamy tropical fruits. It is ripe 87 Vignoble des 2 Lunes 2009 Amélie some light acidity to go with its tropical fruit character. and accessible now, yet with its drier structure it is likely Gewürztraminer (Alsace). This is a gentle, While it is rich, it also has a light touch, finishing with 88 to age for several years. Massanois Imports. —R.V. fruity and open wine that’s full of rounded spiced-fruit abv: NA Price: $NA attractive crispness. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

WineMag.com | 45 flavors. It is attractive, with a fine balance of acidity. note, with a hint of bitterness, has the last word. T. Ed- of acidity lending crispness to the finish. Superb Wine Ready to drink. Superb Wine International LLC. —R.V. ward Wines Ltd. —R.V. International LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

Gustave Lorentz 2011 Réserve Gewürz- Bott Frères NV Brut Rosé Pinot Noir (Cré- 87 traminer (Alsace). Confected and spicy, this OTHER WHITE WINES 86 mant d’Alsace). Lively, fresh and very clean, is a wine that shows the indulgent side of Gewürztra- Domaine Vincent Stoeffler 2010 Uva Api- this has bright acidity and an attractive touch of straw- miner. It has a spice note, with a fresh fruit-salad flavor. berry. It’s dry, with a crispness that balances the rich ana Muscat (Alsace). Called "Apiana" be- Screwcap. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. 87 fruit. Imperial Beverage. —R.V. cause Muscat is attractive to bees, this is very dry and abv: 13% Price: $24 abv: NA Price: $NA lightly perfumed. It has great fresh acidity to comple- ment the grape and spice character. Massanois Imports. Joseph Cattin 2010 Tradition Gewürztra- Joseph Cattin NV Brut (Cré- —R.V. miner (Alsace). A spicy wine that’s soft and mant d’Alsace). Made from Pinot Blanc, this 87 abv: 12% Price: $NA 86 fruity. It does have freshness, with a spiced-pear flavor, is fruity and deliciously crisp. Flavors of apple and fresh while the aftertaste bears a rounded, full texture. T. Ed- Bott Frères 2010 Cuvée Particulière Mus- fruit salad, with a touch of flower all add to the pleasure. ward Wines Ltd. —R.V. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. cat (Alsace). Attractive spicy wine with a live- abv: NA Price: $NA 86 abv: NA Price: $NA ly, lightly spicy character. It is rich without being heavy, showing acidity while also having a smooth texture on Bott Frères 2010 Cuvée Particulière Joseph Cattin NV Brut Rosé Pinot Noir the finish. Imperial Beverage. —R.V. Gewürztraminer (Alsace). Spicy in charac- (Crémant d’Alsace). This has strawberry 86 abv: NA Price: $NA 86 ter, this is rich, smooth and weighty. Because of its rich- aromas with a fresh, creamy texture and a light touch ness, it seems sweet. For a contrast, the acidity lends a of tannin. The wine is warm, rounded and fruity, with a Hugel 2011 Gentil Hugel (Alsace). A crisp, light, crisp aftertaste. Imperial Beverage. —R.V. soft, smooth finish. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. clean wine, with a gentle apple flavor and light abv: NA Price: $NA 86 abv: NA Price: $NA acidity. It’s a wine that is soft and round, with a spice note as well as a minerally tang on the finish. Frederick Dopff & Irion 2010 Tradition Gewürztra- Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. miner (Alsace). Rich, rounded, spicy and very DESSERT WINES 85 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA ready to drink, this has weight and flavors of lychee, Domaines Schlumberger 2009 Cuvée Er- pineapple and kiwi. The finish brings in a more herbal nest Séléction de Grains Nobles Riesling character. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. 91 ROSÉ (Alsace). Riesling works its usual magic in this sweet, abv: NA Price: $NA Gustave Lorentz 2011 Le Rosé (Alsace). luscious and intensely fresh wine. It has rich white fruit, honey and crisp apple flavors all packed into the tangy, Like all Alsace rosé, this wine is made from Pi- 85 texture. Age for at least five years. Maisons Marques & PINOT BLANC not Noir. It’s dry, with delicious, crisp acidity and a fla- Domaines USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V. vor of wild raspberry. A great summer apéritif. Quintes- Domaines Schlumberger 2010 Les Princ- abv: 11.5% Price: $NA sential Wines. —R.V. es Abbés Pinot Blanc (Alsace). Rounded 87 abv: 12% Price: $20 and soft, this is an attractive, warm wine. Pears and Domaines Schlumberger 2008 Cuvée green plums pair with the acidity. A final burst of citrus 90 Christine Vendanges Tardives Gewürz- marks the finish. Ready to drink as a friendly apéritif. PINOT NOIR traminer (Alsace). The spice character in this wine Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. is much less apparent than the superripe flavors of abv: 13% Price: $NA Vignoble des 2 Lunes 2009 Périgée Pinot lychee and mango, which are layered with a delight- 86 Noir (Alsace). An attractively light-textured ful amount of freshness, resulting in a wine that is both Vignoble des 2 Lunes 2009 Apogée Pi- wine, this has a red currant flavor backed by juicy acid- rich and delicate. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. 87 not Blanc (Alsace). Deliciously fruity, this ity. It is forward and fruity; with its gentle tannins, this is —R.V. has great flavors of pear and green plum. It is so fresh ready to drink. Superb Wine International LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA and lightly aromatic, with a smooth, creamy texture abv: 13% Price: $NA that’s highlighted by lemony acidity. Superb Wine In- ternational LLC. —R.V. WHITE BURGUNDY abv: 12.5% Price: $NA SPARKLING WINES Bott Frères NV Cuvée Nicole Brut (Cré- CHABLIS Bott Frères 2010 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). mant d’Alsace). A yeasty, creamy wine that’s This is soft and smooth, with acidity and a 88 Domaine Vrignaud 2010 Fourchaume 85 soft and round. It is rich, full-bodied, with pear and ripe creamy character. The flavors are reminiscent of ripe Premier Cru (Chablis). This shows all of the apple flavors. There’s just an attractive hint of spice on 90 pear and spice. Very ready to drink. Imperial Beverage. right steel and mineral acidity and crispness. The wood the finish. Imperial Beverage. —R.V. aging adds weight, while the citrus and red apple flavors —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA bring fruitiness and acidity. A delicious wine for medi- um-term aging. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. Bott Frères NV Cuvée Q.V. Paul Brut (Cré- Dopff & Irion 2010 Tradition Pinot Blanc abv: 13% Price: $NA mant d’Alsace). Full and structured, this has (Alsace). Smooth and soft, this creamy tex- 87 85 a spice note and a firm feel. Only on the finish does a tured wine has warm pear and apple flavors. It’s ripe, Domaine Ellevin 2009 Vaucoupin Pre- more creamy character show. A few months bottle age lightly spicy and very soft on the finish. Dreyfus, Ashby mier Cru (Chablis). An edgy wine that shows would be a great benefit. Imperial Beverage. —R.V. 88 the steely side of Chablis, this has a tangy, taut texture & Co. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $NA that’s laced with an asparagus flavor that allies with the notes of wood and lime juice. Age for another year to Vignoble des 2 Lunes 2009 Crémant Joseph Cattin 2010 Tradition Pinot Blanc bring it to its best. Good Company Wines. —R.V. Blanc Comète (Crémant d’Alsace). Ripe (Alsace). A typically soft wine, with attractive 87 abv: 13% Price: $40 85 and creamy, this has pure flavors of peaches and pears, fruit, bright acidity and a touch of almond. The almond with a rounded texture. There is just the right amount

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2011 Domaine Ellevin 2009 Chablis. Warm and eral texture and flavors of white fruit and citrus. Crisp with a dense texture of green apple skins. It has an 87 fruity, this has an open apricot flavor that’s bal- and bright, this needs another few months in the bottle. almost steely character while still showing richness. Op- anced by spice and vanilla from the wood aging. Citrus Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. ici Wines. —R.V. flavors give a fresh, more medicinal finish. Good Com- abv: 13% Price: $50 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA pany Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $30 Labouré-Roi 2009 Les Chevaliers (Meur- CÔTE DE BEAUNE 89 sault). A rich, soft and wood-aged wine, this Domaine Garnier Fils 2008 Grains Dorés Maison Jessiaume 2009 Corton-Char- shows toast, fat peach and apple flavors, with some (Chablis). With just that extra bottle age, the structured acidity. Not a wine for long aging, this is 87 lemagne. This is a balanced, ripe and wood- wine shows ripe quince and apricot flavors, with a sug- 93 already delicious and opulent. Palm Bay International. aged wine that is intense and seductively attractive. It gestion of artichoke and a rounded texture. Soft and —R.V. has a yellow fruit flavor, with acidity and a superb edge open, this is ready to drink. Serge Doré Selections. abv: 13% Price: $NA of wood. This should age well. USA Wine West. —R.V. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $180 abv: 12.5% Price: $40 Maison Jessiaume 2009 Charmes Pre- mier Cru (Meursault). Manuel Olivier 2009 Premier Cru (Meur- 89 Jessiaume also runs a Louis Max 2010 Fourchaume Premier negociant business, and this Meursault is a good exam- sault). A wine that shows the natural richness Cru (Chablis). Soft and creamy, this has green 92 ple. With a ripe, full white-fruit flavor, a note of smoky 87 of Meursault, this is full of pineapple and white peach fruit and citrus flavors, mixed with a mineral texture and wood and a rounded texture, it is developing well, if fast. flavors. This has a fine, tangy structure and a chalky some wood. The acidity cuts right through to the finish. Drink over the next 4–5 years. USA Wine West. —R.V. minerality. Age 3–4 years. Pierre Courdurie Selections/ Slocum & Sons, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $115 Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Manuel Olivier 2009 Meursault. Very ripe, Louis Max 2010 Saint-Jean (Chablis). Roux Père et Fils 2010 Clos de Poruzots 89 this has a tropical fruit aroma and a palate that Simple and fruity, this has crisp apple and offers a sweet yellow-fruit flavor, with a citrus edge. 85 Premier Cru (Meursault). This has plenty of grapefruit flavors. It is light and refreshing and is ready 92 Forward and fruity, it is likely to develop fast. Pierre richness, which is contrasted with a more serious, min- to drink over the next few months. Slocum & Sons, Inc. Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. eral structure. The wine has a tense, nervy character, —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA bearing dense white- and green-fruit flavors that are abv: 12.5% Price: $19 layered with wood. It has power and needs aging over 3–4 years. Opici Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. CÔTES DE NUITS abv: 13.5% Price: $NA CÔTE CHALONNAISE Manuel Olivier 2009 Chardonnay (Bour- Domaines Devillard 2009 Château de Domaine Jessiaume 2009 Gravières Pre- 88 gogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits). For its ap- 91 Chamirey La Mission Premier Cru (Mer- 90 mier Cru (Santenay). The Gravières vine- pellation, this is an impressively rich wine. The wood- curey). Wood spice flavors still dominate this zingy, Vard is Premier Cru for both white and red. This white aging contributes a note of sweet toast and a touch of mineral-textured wine. As it ages, it will reveal more version is currently dominated by a new wood aroma nutmeg alongside a kiwi flavor. The wine is rounded, rich fruit flavors of ripe apricot and pineapple. The acid- and a sweet toast flavor. It’s full, soft and rounded, with likely to be ready to drink in a few months. Pierre Cour- ity balances the wine’s fruitiness. Keep for 2–3 years. flavors of creamed pears and ripe peaches. USA Wine durie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Cellar Selection. West. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $47 Roux Père et Fils 2010 La Pucelle (Saint- MÂCONNAIS Domaines Devillard 2009 Château de Aubin). 90 This is a full, opulent and rounded Louis Max 2010 Vieilles Vignes (Pouilly- Chamirey (Mercurey). Warm, rounded and wine, with its wood influence very much at the front. 90 Fuissé). A wine with some concentration and a full bodied, this has flavors of yellow fruit, apple and The future will bring out the rich, warm flavor of 89 full, fruity character, this balances a light structure with pear notes, with a touch of attractive wood spice. There tropical fruit. Opici Wines. —R.V. a generous, wood-laced fruit flavor. While it’s drinkable is a fine burst of uplifting acidity on the finish. Deutsch abv: 13% Price: $NA now, this shows potential to age. Slocum & Sons, Inc. Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $34 Roux Père et Fils 2010 Les Cortons Pre- abv: 13% Price: $21 90 mier Cru (Saint-Aubin). Saint-Aubin, in the Louis Max 2010 Les Rochelles (Mercu- hills behind Puligny-Montrachet, is the Roux family’s Domaine de la Garenne 2010 Mâcon- rey). At this stage, this is a taut, minerally wine home village. With this white, they have brought out 89 Azé. This is attractive and fruity, with a core of that’s dominated by tight acidity. Pears and green plums the softness as well as the richness of the village’s wines. 88 steely minerality. The wine is full of ripe apple and cit- are the lead flavors, with a touch of wood and a zing of A lemon flower aroma is followed by notes of citrus and rus flavors, with a touch of lime zest. It could age for an- crispness on the finish. Age for two years to round it out. white fruit, with a touch of spice. Opici Wines. —R.V. other year, although it is drinkable now. Deutsch Family Slocum & Sons, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23 abv: 13% Price: $24 Roux Père et Fils 2010 Les Macherelles Roux Père et Fils 2010 Clos de Mollepi- Premier Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet). 90 L. Tramier et Fils 2010 Pouilly-Fuissé. erres (Rully). A wood-aged wine, this is crisp While this full-bodied wine is currently closed up at 89 Flavors of apples, pears and lemons compose while also rounded. It has weight, with pear and apple this stage, apparent is the potential weight of the white 88 this ripe, friendly wine. It has nutmeg and wood flavors flavors and a great tang of forward acidity. This is attrac- and yellow fruits and the minerality. It will be rich and along with a warm and rounded character. Drink now. tive and well worth aging. Opici Wines. —R.V. rounded, with a toast and citrus counterpoint. Opici Luxe Vintages. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA Cellar Selection. Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $37 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Domaines Devillard 2010 Château de Roux Père et Fils 2010 Pouilly-Fuissé. Chamirey La Mission Premier Cru (Mer- Roux Père et Fils 2010 Chassagne-Mon- 88 On the ripe, tropical side of Pouilly, this is a full curey). This is an attractively fruity wine, with a min- trachet. Taut and mineral, this is a chewy wine, 88 89 wine, laden with attractive notes of wood, juicy yellow

WineMag.com | 47 fruit and bitter orange zest. It is warm, rich and ready to it then rounds out in the mouth, with white- and green- the dense core of tannins. It’s worth aging 2–3 years. drink later this year. Opici Wines. —R.V. fruit flavors combined with a soft texture. Ready to Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA drink now. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $50 abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Domaine de la Garenne 2009 Mâcon- Domaines Devillard 2009 Château de 87 Azé. While ripe, this also has a firm struc- Louis Max 2010 Beaucharme Chardon- 89 Chamirey (Mercurey). Firmly tannic, this is ture, with a mix of rich yellow-fruit flavors and austere 85 nay (Bourgogne). Soft and fruity, this has dark and dense, with a rich black-fruit flavor and a solid minerality. With the acidity just beginning to soften, it gentle flavors of pear, citrus and white fruit that are structure. The fruit is developing, and as it does so, it is will turn into a full and more rounded wine. Deutsch balanced with light acidity. Drink now. Slocum & Sons, bringing out the weight of the wine, layering ripeness Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. Inc. —R.V. on top of the dry texture. Age for 2–3 years. Deutsch abv: 13% Price: $24 abv: 13% Price: $14 Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $34 Louis Max 2010 Saint-Véran. A rounded Roux Père et Fils 2010 Chardonnay 87 wine that exudes a flavor of warm yellow fruit. 85 (Bourgogne). A fruity, lemon-scented wine, Domaines Devillard 2010 Clos du Cellier With its weight, the fruitiness comes through strongly, this is attractively crisp, with the bright acidity of the 88 aux Moines Premier Cru (Givry). On the leaving an attractive tang of acidity on the finish. Slocum vintage. Drinkable now, or age for a year. Opici Wines. rustic side, this fruity wine has rhubarb and red fruit fla- & Sons, Inc. —R.V. —R.V. vors, with intense acidity and a pure, juicy core. The soft abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA tannins just underpin the fruity character. Age for two years, although it’s ready to drink now. Deutsch Family Cave de Lugny 2010 Chardonnay de Wine & Spirits. —R.V. 86 Chardonnay (Mâcon-Chardonnay). A RED BURGUNDY abv: 13% Price: $40 fresh, fruity, unoaked effort, this has lively acidity, with flavors of quince and pear and a soft, open texture. CÔTE CHALONNAISE Domaines Devillard 2010 Château de Screwcap. David Milligan Selections. —R.V. 87 Chamirey (Mercurey). Fresh, soft and fruity, abv: 13% Price: $15 Domaines Devillard 2009 Château de this is brightened by a jammy red-fruit flavor and light 91 Chamirey Clos du Roi Premier Cru (Mer- acidity. It has a juicy character, with underlying attrac- Cave de Lugny 2010 Les Charmes (Mâ- curey). Powerful and serious, this is full of rich tannins tive, gentle tannins. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. 86 con-Lugny). Light, fruity and rounded, this and concentrated fruits. Its complex, with ripe tannins —R.V. wood-aged wine has white fruit, spice and apricot fla- adding structure to the red plum and spice flavors. With abv: 13% Price: $35 vors. It could age a year, but it is delicious now. Paster- its power, this will need to mature over the next four nak Wine Imports. —R.V. years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Cellar Selec- Roux Père et Fils 2010 La Perri- abv: 13% Price: $15 tion. —R.V. 87 ère (Mercurey). A wine relatively high in abv: 13.5% Price: $47 red-currant-like acidity. It does have a rustic side to Louis Max 2010 Mâcon-Villages. This is it, although the fruit has potential richness and should 86 gentle and rounded, with creamed pear and cit- Domaines Devillard 2009 Château de come through in 2–3 years. Opici Wines. —R.V. rus flavors. With hints of caramel and vanilla, it is soft, 91 Chamirey Les Ruelles Premier Cru (Mer- abv: 13% Price: $NA clean and very ready to drink. Slocum & Sons, Inc. curey). This is a big wine with a big future. It has rich, —R.V. concentrated fruit and a dense, tannic structure. Add Domaines Devillard 2009 Le Renard abv: 12.5% Price: $16 in the flavors of smoky wood, spice, black plum and 86 (Givry). Full, ripe and spicy, this has flavors of berry, and this looks worth keeping for 4–5 years or meat and wild strawberry. It is dense, with bright acidity Roux Père et Fils 2010 Chardonnay (Mâ- more. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Cellar Selec- and enough tannin for structure. Deutsch Family Wine 86 con-Villages). Soft and ripe, this has flavors tion. —R.V. & Spirits. —R.V. of almond, pink grapefruit and attractive, crisp acidity. abv: 13.5% Price: $47 abv: 13% Price: $NA With its warm character that’s embellished with toast, it is ready to drink now. Opici Wines. —R.V. Domaines Devillard 2009 Clos du Celli- Louis Max 2010 Clos la Marche (Mercu- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 90 er aux Moines Premier Cru (Givry). Full 86 rey). Tannins and a red berry flavor combine in of juicy red-fruit flavors, this is hugely rich. It is solid, this soft wine. It has the structure of the vintage, with a chunky and concentrated, with jammy red-plum flavors firm core; the fruit and acidity developing slowly. Keep BOURGOGNE marrying with firm tannins and intense acids. Expect for 2–3 years. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —R.V. this wine to age for six-plus years. Deutsch Family Wine Manuel Olivier 2009 Vieilles Vignes abv: 13% Price: $23 & Spirits. —R.V. (Bourgogne Aligoté). Aligoté shows a min- 87 abv: 13% Price: $40 Domaines Devillard 2010 Le Renard eral character, with a chalky feel along with high-toned (Givry). Light, bright and fruity, this has soft citrus- and green-apple flavors. Made from grapes 85 Domaines Devillard 2010 Château de tannins, plenty of red fruits and balancing acidity. Just sourced from 35-year-old vines, this has intensity as well Chamirey Clos du Roi Premier Cru (Mer- dry to finish, it is ready to drink now. Deutsch Family as a crisp texture. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine 89 curey). Smooth and ripe, this is full of red fruits that Wine & Spirits. —R.V. Partners. —R.V. are layered with wood influence and attractive tan- abv: 13% Price: $22 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA nins. It has an enticing juicy character, with its soft tex- ture bearing a spice note and fine acidity on the finish. Louis Max 2010 Vigne du Chapitre (Mer- Domaines Devillard 2010 Le Renard Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. curey). Along with soft red fruits, this is a wine Chardonnay (Bourgogne). A very soft wine, 85 85 abv: 13% Price: $50 that shows crisp acidity, strawberry flavors and light tan- with its yellow fruits giving a rounded character. It is nins. It’s already drinkable, but it can age for a year. Slo- warm, forward and ready to drink. Deutsch Family Domaines Devillard 2010 Château de cum & Sons, Inc. —R.V. Wine & Spirits. —R.V. Chamirey Les Ruelles Premier Cru (Mer- abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $22 89 curey). The attractive smoky flavor and red berry fruits come through strongly in this wine. It has some Domaines Devillard 2009 Le Renard weight, with a wood flavor supporting the fruitiness and 85 Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Initially herbal,

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 rounded, wood-aged wine, this is full of ripe red-berry raspberry and black plum skin. The wine needs at least CÔTE DE BEAUNE and spice flavors, with a core of warm, smoky tannins. It three years to come into balance. Pierre Courdurie Se- Domaine Jessiaume 2009 Brouillards is structured and should age over several years. Slocum lections/Wine Partners. —R.V. 92 Premier Cru (Volnay). An intensely per- & Sons, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA fumed wine, this is packed with ripe fruit and ripe tan- abv: 13% Price: $29 nins. The texture is full and rounded, yet it remains Louis Max 2009 Domaine de la Créa youthfully firm. It’s very pure and lined with acidity; Louis Max 2009 Clos des Chênes (Vol- 86 Les Beaumonts (Chorey-lès-Beaune). A black fruits dominate the flavor profile. This is meant 88 nay). This is firm, showing a ripe plum-skin firmly tannic wine, with flavors of smoky wood and plum for for aging. USA Wine West. Cellar Selection. —R.V. flavor and a severe line of tannin. There’s some bitter- skin. Equally relying on its lean structure, acidity and abv: 13% Price: $66 ness along with a good depth of fruit flavor, structure fruit, this needs to age for 2–3 years. Slocum & Sons, and acidity, all of which suggest aging potential. Slocum Inc. —R.V. Domaine Jessiaume 2009 Gravières Pre- & Sons, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA 91 mier Cru (Santenay). Structured and rich, abv: 13% Price: $44 this is a wine with great weight from the ripe fruit. It Louis Max 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet. is open, bearing flavors of red berry, damson and spice, Louis Max 2009 Domaine de la Créa Les 85 Red Chassagne-Montrachet is rarer today than with acidity. It should age over several years. USA Wine 88 Cent Vignes Premier Cru (Beaune). Rasp- it used to be—now that Chardonnay has taken the vil- West. Cellar Selection. —R.V. berry ripeness and soft tannins lend warmth to this lage by storm. This is a lean wine, with tight acidity and abv: 13% Price: $46 structured wine. It has weight and a smoky wood char- dry tannins. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —R.V. acter, with a juicy finish. Age for 2–3 years. Slocum & abv: 13% Price: $NA Louis Max 2009 Aux Fourneaux Premier Sons, Inc. —R.V. 90 Cru (Savigny-lès-Beaune). A wine that abv: 13% Price: $41 combines juicy acids, firm tannins and attractive fruit CÔTES DE NUITS Manuel Olivier 2009 Aloxe-Corton. flavors. This is well banaced with a mineral character In- Domaines Devillard 2009 Domaine des tense and concentrated, this shows dense tan- and taut structure. This should be ready to drink in 2–3 88 Perdrix (Echézeaux). This is a big, smoky nins and layers of red- and black-fruit flavors, with 94 years. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —R.V. wine that’s packed with ripe fruits, firm tannins and lay- the acidity cutting through. It’s likely to age well over abv: 13% Price: $36 ers of wood. Firm, solid and concentrated, the wine’s 4–5 years. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. black fruits show through the dense texture. It has great —R.V. Domaine Jessiaume 2009 Cent Vignes potential—age for at least five years. Deutsch Family abv: 13% Price: $NA 89 Premier Cru (Beaune). This is powerful, Wine & Spirits. Cellar Selection. —R.V. showing concentration and firm tannins. It has a juicy abv: 13.5% Price: $195 element of red fruit and dark plum flavors. The smoky Roux Père et Fils 2010 Montée Rouge (Beaune). character from the wood adds an exotic touch. USA 88 This has a firm tannic structure Maison Jessiaume 2009 Chambertin. that’s allied to a smoky character. The dry core is bold Wine West. —R.V. This is heavy on the wood, but it’s so rich in fruit and offers a counterpoint to the ripe red- and black- 94 abv: 13% Price: $55 as well. An immensely concentrated wine that’s pow- plum fruit. For aging over 4–5 years. Opici Wines. ered by its dark tannins and flavors of ripe blackberry, —R.V. Domaine Jessiaume 2009 Clos de Clos loganberry juice and spice. The acidity is straight as an abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 89 Genet (Santenay). Serious and intense, this arrow, giving the wine good lift. USA Wine West. Cel- is packed with tannins and a dark plum flavor. With its lar Selection. —R.V. Domaine Jessiaume 2009 Les Ecus- structure and richness, this concentrated wine is likely abv: 13% Price: $266 to age for many years. USA Wine West. —R.V. 87 seaux Premier Cru (Auxey-Duresses). abv: 13% Price: $40 Wood-influenced aromas set the scene, with the wine’s Domaines Devillard 2009 Domaine des toast character partnered with ripe red fruits and taut Perdrix Les 8 Ouvrées Aux Perdrix Pre- acidity. It needs at least three years to balance out. USA 93 Louis Max 2009 Volnay. This is ripe mier Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges). This rich, fruity wine Wine West. —R.V. 89 and lined with solid, dry tannins, bearing wears its wood aging right up front, with spice and a abv: 13% Price: $46 strawberry, red plum and damson flavors. The wine has toast character. A flavor of black plum juice comes a rich spice note, a touch of smoke and a warm, soft through, offering a full character and rounding out the L. Tramier et Fils 2009 Premier Cru finish. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —R.V. structure. Age for at least five years. Deutsch Family (Beaune). This is ripe and jammy, with soft abv: 13% Price: $38 87 Wine & Spirits. Cellar Selection. —R.V. fruit and attractive acidity. It is warm, with a hint of abv: 13.5% Price: $121 Manuel Olivier 2009 Premier Cru (Pom- wood aging. Ready to drink. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $50 89 mard). Currently, this is a mouthful of tannins Maison Jessiaume 2009 Chapelle-Cham- and wood toast, instantly revealing its long-term aging bertin. A powerful evocation of the weight of Louis Max 2010 Pommard. Solid and firm, 93 potential. With the weight of black fruit underneath, it a Gevrey-Chambertin Grand Cru, this wine shows as this boasts dark tannins and red plum fruits. It will be a rich, solid wine in six years time. Pierre Cour- 87 much tannin as fruit. That said, the potential for the has weight and structure, the fruits surrounding the- durie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. two coming into balance, aided by the edge of toast, is dense, dry core. Age for 2–4 years, at least. Slocum & abv: 13.5% Price: $NA superb and worth waiting at least six years. USA Wine Sons, Inc. —R.V. West. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Labouré-Roi 2009 Le Taillefer (Pom- abv: 13% Price: $42 abv: 13% Price: $236 88 mard). The wine has firm, dark tannins as be- Louis Max 2009 Domaine de la Créa fits a Pommard, with underlying sumptuous black fruit. Maison Jessiaume 2009 Echézeaux. Sous Roche (Saint-Romain). A fruity As the tannins soften, this will become a rich and juicy 87 Rich and finely perfumed, this has a ripe wine—this is full of strawberry flavor, with enough acid- 93 wine, and it will likely always remain structured. Palm black-fruit flavor, with notes of fresh red berries. It is ity and soft, warm tannins to give it shape. While it can Bay International. —R.V. full bodied and round, with just the right level of ripe- age, it is ready to drink now. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA ness and weight to lend excellent aging potential. USA abv: 13% Price: $NA Wine West. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Louis Max 2010 Domaine de la Créa Les abv: 13% Price: $246 88 Grands Picotins (Savigny-lès-Beaune). A Manuel Olivier 2009 Pommard. This bears 87 high acidity and firm tannins, with flavors of

WineMag.com | 49 Domaines Devillard 2009 Domaine des Manuel Olivier 2009 Morey-Saint-De- Manuel Olivier 2009 Vosne-Romanée. 92 Perdrix Aux Perdrix Premier Cru (Nuits- 91 nis. Big and rounded, this shows the rich- 90 You can feel the power in this dark, concen- St.-Georges). This is a solidly tannic wine, with the ness of the vintage and the structure of the appella- trated wine. It shows structure and firm firm tannins fruit firmly set behind the dry exterior. It has weight and tion. It has weight to go with the rich, juicy fruit, with a that power the wine, allowing the ripe flavors of choco- dark, dry power; a spice note and a juicy character show flavor of sweet strawberry that’s balanced with acidity. late and dark plum to develop into a dense wine. Pierre through on the finish. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. This is very young and needing several years to age. Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. —R.V. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. Cellar Se- abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $95 lection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA Roux Père et Fils 2010 Les Charmes Pre- Domaine Henri Rebourseau 2001 Cham- 90 mier Cru (Chambolle-Musigny). Ripe and 92 bertin. This is a powerful wine, driven by fruit Manuel Olivier 2009 Premier Cru (Nuits- full bodied, this is a rich, red-fruited wine. The fruit is and dark, firm tannins. It has a solid, chunky character, 91 St.-Georges). This is firm, full of acidity and delicious, supported by a core of sweet tannins and gen- although that is balanced by the black plum and ber- tannins as much as fruit. The fruit is the weight behind erous acidity, with a touch of wood. This should age over ry fruits and serious acidity. Both for its weight and its the superstructure, promising rich flavors of red ber- several years. Opici Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. structure, it should age for several more years. Holiday ry and black plum in years to come. Keep for at least abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Beverage. —R.V. four years. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. abv: 13.5% Price: $600 —R.V. Roux Père et Fils 2010 Les Petits Vou- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 90 geot Premier Cru (Vougeot). At this stage, Domaine Henri Rebourseau 2000 Mazy- the wood aging of the wine is apparent. Yet at the same 92 Chambertin. Now mature, this is a big wine. Domaines Devillard 2009 Domaine des time, it also has a dense black-fruit flavor and a rich Its tannins charged with juicy fruit and laden with acid- 90 Perdrix (Nuits-St.-Georges). While the sur- structure. This is smoky, powerful and ageworthy. Opici ity. It’s firm, and the dryness is an important element. face of the wine is firmly tannic, the fruit brings in the Wines. —R.V. This finishes with intense, mature acidity. Holiday Bev- richness and opulence underneath. The combination abv: 13.5% Price: $NA erage. —R.V. equals a ripe, wood-aged wine, with dry tannins that are abv: 13.5% Price: $300 beginning to integrate into the fruit. Deutsch Family Domaine Henri Rebourseau 2001 Clos Wine & Spirits. —R.V. 89 de Vougeot. This feels old fashioned with its Maison Jessiaume 2009 Clos de Vou- abv: 13.5% Price: $61 big, solid and dry tannins. This is very smoky and laden 92 geot. Tannins and dark fruit dominate this con- with wood; the fruit seems to be way behind the dark, centrated, dense wine. The weight of ripe black fruit Domaines Devillard 2009 Domaine des firm structure. It’s never going to be fruity—always shows straight through the structure. This is for long 90 Perdrix (Vosne-Romanée). This is firm, firmly tannic. Holiday Beverage. —R.V. term aging. USA Wine West. —R.V. with smoky tannins and sweet berry fruits. It is rich; the abv: 13.5% Price: $400 abv: 13% Price: $190 densely structured, dry core and the acidity promise ageability. The finish is ripe and full bodied. Deutsch Louis Max 2009 Vosne-Romanée. Seri- Manuel Olivier 2009 Clos de Vougeot. An Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. 89 ous and structured, this has dark, smoky flavors, 92 impressive wine that’s packed with both fruit abv: 13.5% Price: $71 with red-fruit acidity. The wine has good potential, with and tannins. The red fruit and acidity are balanced with its jammy fruit heart surrounded by tannins that will the dense structure, and it still shows elegance. Age for Domaine Henri Rebourseau 2000 Fon- soften. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —R.V. 6–7 years. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. 90 teny Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin). abv: 13% Price: $61 Cellar Selection. —R.V. This is concentrated, with big, firm tannins that are still abv: 13.5% Price: $NA covering the red berry fruits. It is always going to be Maison Jessiaume 2009 Aux Echang- firm and dry, although the aggressive tannins should 89 es Premier Cru (Chambolle-Musigny). A Olivier Decelle & Pierre Jean Villa 2009 open up to show more fruit after another two years. ripely soft wine, although at this stage the wood is too 92 Les Criots Premier Cru (Nuits-St.-Georg- Holiday Beverage. —R.V. obvous, lending a spice note that covers the rounded es). While Olivier Decelle is well known in Roussillon abv: 13.5% Price: $140 red fruits. It certainly demands at least five years of ag- and Bordeaux and Pierre Jean Villa works in the Rhône, ing. USA Wine West. —R.V. they have started a small negociant business in Burgun- Louis Max 2009 Charmes-Chambertin. abv: 13% Price: $125 dy. This is impressive and powerful, balancing richness 90 With all of its firm tannins intact, this is a sol- with structure. It’s certainly worth aging. Weygandt- id, dense and concentrated wine. Black fruits linger be- Manuel Olivier 2009 Les Damaudes Metzler. Cellar Selection. —R.V. hind the dark structure. Age this powerful wine for 4–5 89 (Vosne-Romanée). Bringing out the sweet abv: 13% Price: $NA years. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —R.V. fruitiness of the vintage, this wine is softly sumptuous. abv: 13% Price: $126 It has a tannic edge, although it is the juicy red-berry Domaine Henri Rebourseau 2002 character that dominates. Pierre Courdurie Selections/ 91 Gevrey-Chambertin. Firm and solid, this is Manuel Olivier 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin. Wine Partners. —R.V. packed with dark fruits and dense tannins. Fruit flavors 90 From the village in the Côte de Nuits that pro- abv: 13% Price: $NA include damsons, black plums and dried raisins that are duces the biggest wines, this Gevrey places itself firmly entangled in the firm structure. Age for 3–4 years. Holi- on the tannic side. It’s dense and concentrated, yet it Roux Père et Fils 2010 Chambolle-Mu- day Beverage. —R.V. still preserves the generous fruit of the vintage. Pierre 89 signy. Relatively high in red currant acidity, abv: 13.5% Price: $140 Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. this has a rustic side to it, although the fruit has poten- abv: 13% Price: $NA tial richness and should show in 2–3 years. Opici Wines. Manuel Olivier 2009 Chambolle-Musigny. —R.V. 91 Rich, opulent fruits give the wine an initially Manuel Olivier 2009 Nuits-St.-Georges. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA soft character. Slowly, the firm sub-structure comes into 90 Firm and tannic, this has structure that’s but- play, with firm tannins. The result is a dense, generous, tressed by ripe, jammy fruit and intense acidity. Solid Roux Père et Fils 2010 Vieilles Vignes smoky wine, ready to age. Pierre Courdurie Selections/ and powerful, this is impressive and ageworthy. Pierre 89 (Gevrey-Chambertin). A powerful wine— Wine Partners. —R.V. Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. this has plenty of weight and tannic structure. It also abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $NA has a lively red-fruit character that comes through with

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 acidity. There is a muscular feel to this wine, one that aromas of lemon, herb and chamomile Martin Scott promises ageability. Opici Wines. —R.V. NORTHERN ITALY Wines. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $18 PINOT GRIGIO Louis Max 2010 Les Azerottes (Gevrey- Cantina Terlano 2011 Pinot Grigio Nals Margreid 2011 Punggl Pinot Grigio Chambertin). With as much structure as fruit, (Alto Adige). A true pleasure to drink, this 88 (Alto Adige). This is delightful, with amaz- 89 this is an austere effort. It has hints of juicy flavors of red 92 cool-climate Pinot Grigio offers a silky, smooth texture, ing intensity and unique smoothness. Aromas of honey, fruit and black plum that are intertwined with the acid- with bright aromas of peach, lemon and pineapple. peach and cantaloupe linger on the finish, with a fresh ity and the tight tannins. It does need to age, although it There’s even a touch of dried mountain herb on the fin- note of mountain flower. This is a simple wine, but a will always be dry. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —R.V. ish. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. perfectly executed one. Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $46 abv: 13.5% Price: $22 abv: 14% Price: $30 Louis Max 2009 Chambolle-Musigny. The Teresa Raiz 2010 Pinot Grigio (Colli Ori- Vie di Romans 2009 Dessimis Pinot Gri- Louis Max style seems to be of wines that open entali del Friuli). There’s a rich, thick quality 87 gio (Friuli Isonzo). For full review see page 6. 89 slowly and have a firm structure. That’s the case here: It 92 to this Italian Pinot Grigio, giving it heft and determi- abv: 14.5% Price: $42 has plenty of acidity, with a red currant flavor and a dry, nation on the palate. Melon, apricot, honey and canta- dense character. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —R.V. Abbazia di Novacella 2011 Pinot Grigio loupe give momentum to its soft, creamy texture. Vino abv: 13% Price: $58 (Alto Adige). This shows amazing purity of Direct. —M.L. 90 abv: 13% Price: $21 aromas, with undercurrents of flint, white pepper, lem- on mousse and fresh peach. The mouthfeel is loaded BOURGOGNE Alois Lageder 2010 Porer Pinot Grigio with soft honey and melon. Vintage Epicure. Editors’ (Alto Adige). Farmed according to certified Domaines Devillard 2010 Domaine des Choice. —M.L. 88 biodynamic and organic practices, this is an impres- Perdrix Pinot Noir (Bourgogne). Very pure, abv: 13.5% Price: $20 87 sively clean and bright, with flavors of tangy citrus, this has a clean strawberry flavor, with exhilarating acid- spice and plump stone fruit. A touch of white mountain ity. The wine has some structure and firm tannins, al- Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro 2011 Pinot Gri- flower shades in the finish. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. though its fruitiness is the dominant factor. Deutsch gio (Alto Adige). This gorgeous Pinot Grigio 90 —M.L. Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. displays the fresh aromatic fragrances associated with abv: 13% Price: $23 abv: 13% Price: $37 cool-climate, mountain winemaking. Layers of jasmine, tangerine, cut grass and white almond appear on the Andriano 2011 Pinot Grigio (Alto Adige). Domaines Devillard 2009 Domaine des bouquet, giving this wine a delicate and feminine per- An ideal Italian whites to pair with spaghetti alle Perdrix Pinot Noir (Bourgogne). Attrac- sonality. A spicy touch of acidity drives the clean, bright 88 87 vongole or fried fish. The bouquet is redolent of almond tively ripe, this has a dense texture that’s full of red finish. Omniwines Distribution. Best Buy. —M.L. paste, stone fruit and citrus. There’s a very well-defined fruits and soft tannins. With its richness, it is delicious abv: 14% Price: $15 streak of sassy spice on the crisp finish. Banville & Jones and ready to drink now. Deutsch Family Wine & Spir- Wine Merchants. —M.L. its. —R.V. Kellerei St. Pauls 2011 Pinot Grigio (Alto abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $35 90 Adige). This is redolent of fresh-cut flowers, honeysuckle, melon and white peach. All that aromatic Bollini 2010 Vigna Trasassi Pinot Gri- Roux Père et Fils 2010 Pinot Noir (Bour- freshness gives it a pure, elegant and expressive person- gio (Venezia Giulia). This pretty vineyard- gogne). Light in color, this has a warm jammy ality. Tesori Wines. —M.L. 88 86 designate Pinot Grigio delivers a thick, creamy texture feel that’s leavened by intense acidity. Just touched with abv: 13% Price: $26 backed by fresh aromas of tangerine and apricot. Pair tannins, it is attractive and ready to drink. Opici Wines. this with wild asparagus topped with melted butter and —R.V. Mezzacorona 2010 Riserva Pinot Grigio abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 90 (Trentino). For full review see page 8. grated Parmigiano. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: 13% Price: $15 Domaine Jessiaume 2009 Pinot Noir Bonotto delle Tezze 2010 Montesan- (Bourgogne). Attractive and fruity, this has Nals Margreid 2011 Pinot Grigio (Alto 85 to Pinot Grigio (). This “ramato” or red fruits at the fore. It is soft, round and balanced, with Adige). Nals Margreid has evidently mastered 88 90 copper-hued Pinot Grigio opens with bright aromas of just the right amount of red currant acidity. Drink now. the art of Pinot Grigio. What makes this wine special bitter almond, honey, peach and exotic fruit. Its texture USA Wine West. —R.V. is that its simple core is embellished by a whole series abv: 13% Price: $25 of tiny, sophisticated tweaks that make it a pleasure to is smooth and soft. Venezia Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $15 drink. There are flavors of ripe fruit, almond and bright Domaines Devillard 2010 Le Renard Pi- melon, with a creamy note of citrus on the finish. Mas- Bortoluzzi 2010 Pinot Grigio (Venezia Gi- not Noir (Bourgogne). Light and fruity, this ciarelli Wine Co. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. 85 ulia). This is an attractive value-driven wine, has a fresh red-berry flavor. It has intense youthful acid- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 88 with fleshy aromas of stone fruit and melon backed by ity, lending a very crisp texture. With its soft tannins, it aromatic notes of honey and wild flower. The wine de- is ready to drink in a few months when the acidity has Cantina Cortaccia 2011 Penóner Pinot livers a smooth, rich mouthfeel. Empson (USA) Ltd. calmed down. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. Grigio (Alto Adige). This opens with a smoky 89 Best Buy. abv: 13% Price: $22 touch of almond backed by lush layers of ripe melon —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $13 and apricot. It is round, smooth and generous, with Domaines Devillard 2009 Le Renard Pi- good structure and crisp acidity on the finish. Golden Cantarutti 2010 Pinot Grigio (Colli Ori- not Noir (Bourgogne). Structure goes with Horseshoe Inc. —M.L. 84 entali del Friuli). Bold and structured, this is red berry fruits in this light, crisp wine. It has a tenden- abv: 14% Price: $16 88 fragrant of yellow rose, stone fruit and honeydew. The cy to a tight texture and lean tannins. Ready to drink. wine’s creamy finish delivers a bold, chewy softness. Vi- Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. Cantina Produttori San Michele Appiano abv: 12.5% Price: $22 2011 Pinot Grigio (Alto Adige). A crisp, nilandia USA. —M.L. 89 abv: 13% Price: $25 tonic wine, with cucumber-like freshness and pretty

WineMag.com | 51 Conti Formentini 2010 Pinot Grigio (Col- Teresa Raiz 2010 Le Marsure Pinot Gri- and Granny Smith apple give this wine a youthful and 88 lio). This opens with sweet fruit tones of honey- 88 gio (Venezia Giulia). Le Marsure has shown superfresh personality. The finish is smooth, silky and dew, ripe peach and apricot. The full, generous mouth- a long and consistent evolution over the past few vin- polished. Montcalm Wine Importers. Editors’ Choice. feel is quite loveable. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. tages. This food-friendly expression shows full and ripe —M.L. —M.L. tones of melon, apricot, honey and yellow rose. Vino Di- abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 rect. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $14 La Vis 2010 Intaglio Pinot Grigio (Tren- Elena Walch 2010 Pinot Grigio (Alto 87 tino). The aromatic delivery is bright, fresh and 88 Adige). Pinot Grigios from Alto Adige boast Villa Russiz 2009 Pinot Grigio (Collio). pristine. Bright acidity is backed by flavors of stone fruit, a bright, crisp and fresh quality that only cool-climate 88 Interesting and well structured, this can age a citrus and Golden Delicious apple. It’s the kind of white wines can deliver. All that aromatic intensity makes few years or more. Aromas of honey, stone fruit and to serve with summer salad lunches by the pool. Ethica for pristine layers of melon, peach and smooth vanilla butterscotch candy give this wine a sophisticated edge. Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. cream. Artisan Wines, Inc. —M.L. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 13.5% Price: $29 Lechthaler 2010 Pinot Grigio (Trentino). Fabiano 2008 Argillaia I Fondatori Treb- Altadonna 2011 Pinot Grigio (Delle Vene- 87 This is an easy, food-friendly wine, offering live- 88 biano di Lugana (Lugana). Well crafted and 87 zie). The private of consulting enol- ly qualities of spice, yellow fruit and tangy grapefruit. carefully executed, this off-gold wine delivers a bou- ogist Stefano Chioccioli, Altadonna is a relatively new The dragon depicted on the label makes the bottle quet of candied fruit, butterscotch, caramel and vanilla. line. This expression is redolent of lemon, lime, green recognizeable. Vias Imports. —M.L. The mouthfeel is thick and creamy, and it will appeal to apple and honeydew. Opici Wines. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 those who appreciate a slightly oxidized style. Admiral abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Imports. —M.L. Livon 2011 Pinot Grigio (Collio). Here’s abv: 13% Price: $NA Altanuta 2011 Pinot Grigio (Valdadige). 87 a standard, well-made Pinot Grigio that shows 87 This is a bright, textbook Pinot Grigio that bright aromas of citrus, apple, pear and honey. It is Fantinel 2010 Vigneti Sant’Helena Pinot shows the very best of easy-drinking Italian white wine. defined by a sharp, crisp vein of acidity on the finish. 88 Grigio (Collio). This vineyard-designate Pinot Light fragrances of sweet nectarine and honey are fol- Angelini Wine. —M.L. Grigio is nicely executed, with aromas of creamy vanilla, lowed by a palate with medium structure and crisp abv: 12.5% Price: $16 apricot and melon. There’s a fragrant touch of yellow acidity.Total Beverage Solution. —M.L. rose and even a note of exotic spice that fills in the fin- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Livon 2010 Braide Grande Pinot Grigio ish. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. 87 (Collio). On the thin and crisp side, this fresh abv: 13% Price: $NA Bollini 2010 Pinot Grigio (Trentino). Pinot Grigio offers layered aromas of lime, green apple 87 This fresh white should pair with chicken and lemon mousse. The bight citrus tones last long on Fondazione Edmund Mach 2010 Istituto salad or fish tacos. It offers aromas of lemon, pear and the palate. Angelini Wine. —M.L. 88 Agrario San Michele all’Adige Pinot Gri- honeydew melon. Screwcap. Empson (USA) Ltd. abv: 13% Price: $22 gio (Trentino). This shows sharp and well-defined —M.L. aromas of citrus and exotic fruit, with background notes abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Mezzacorona 2011 Pinot Grigio (Vigneti of dried herb and almond skin. Lees contact lended 87 delle Dolomiti). For full review see page 10. this wine extra richness and creaminess. Vias Imports. Cavit 2011 Bottega Vinaia Pinot Grigio Best Buy. —M.L. 87 (Trentino). A popular and well-distributed Pi- abv: 12.5% Price: $9 abv: 14% Price: $NA not Grigio, this opens with fresh aromas of citrus, cut grass and stone fruit. The mouthfeel is generous, rich Niedermayr Josef 2010 Pinot Grigio Jermann 2010 Pinot Grigio (Venezia and fresh. Palm Bay International. —M.L. 87 (Alto Adige). This shows pristine aromas of 88 Giulia). Jermann is the proud producer of abv: 13% Price: $18 white flower, almond paste and summer peach. The some of Italy’s best white wines. This effort offers rich cool northern Italian climate has helped shape the sophistication, with pretty tones of almond, exotic fruit, Cescon Italo Storia e Vini 2011 Il Tralcet- beautifully aromatic bouquet. Opici Wines. —M.L. apricot and caramel. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. 87 to Pinot Grigio (Veneto). Packaged with a abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $29 grape cutting tied to the neck of the bottle, this gener- ous wine shows aromas of ripe melon, apricot and tan- Peter Zemmer 2011 Pinot Grigio (Alto Le Vigne di Zamò 2010 Pinot Grigio gerine skin. There’s a fresh note of sweet honeysuck- 87 Adige). This has clean, bright flower and 88 (Venezia Giulia). This nicely structured Pi- le on the close. Bacco Wine & Spirit, LLC. Editors’ fruit aromas. It shows pretty, silky intensity on the pal- not Grigio shows a "ramato" or copper color and slight- Choice. —M.L. ate, with well-integrated acidity. HB Wine Merchants. ly oxidized aromas of butterscotch, bitter almond and abv: 12% Price: $14 —M.L. ripe melon. The structure is bigger and more defined abv: 13.5% Price: $16 than a standard Italian white. Omniwines Distribution. Ermacora 2010 Pinot Grigio (Colli Orien- —M.L. 87 tali del Friuli). This is fresh, with lush layers of Petrucco 2010 Pinot Grigio (Colli Orien- abv: 13.5% Price: $24 peach, melon, lemon zest and white flower. It’s an easy 87 tali del Friuli). Aged only in stainless steel, this effort, boasting good structure and staying power. Pre- crisp effort shows subtle aromas of toasted almond and Mario Schiopetto 2010 Pinot Grigio (Col- mier Wine Co. —M.L. butter backed by notes of stone fruit and dried grass. 88 lio). This is the perfect wine to pair with sea- abv: 13.5% Price: $17 It finishes with a rich, smooth texture. George Wines. food salad or grilled Ahi tuna steaks. This bright effort —M.L. shows creamy smoothness, with rich highlights of mel- Gaierhof 2010 Pinot Grigio (Trentino). abv: 13% Price: $15 on, exotic fruit and honeydew. Vintus LLC. —M.L. 87 Fresh and easy going, this offers generous full- abv: 12.5% Price: $27 ness and intense notes of apricot, honeydew and Gold- Pighin 2011 Pinot Grigio (Friuli Grave). en Delicious apple. Conexport. —M.L. 87 Great for easy seafood or pasta dishes, this is Tenuta Luisa 2010 Pinot Grigio (Isonzo abv: 12.5% Price: $20 fresh, with crisp acidity backed by notes of stone fruit, 88 del Friuli). For full review see page 9. melon and yellow rose. Kobrand. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Girlan 2011 Pinot Grigio (Alto Adige). abv: 12.5% Price: $15 87 Beautiful mountain aromatics of wild flower

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 Pighin 2010 Pinot Grigio (Collio). This Risata 2010 Pinot Grigio (Friuli). This easy Riondo 2011 Monte Forte Lot 6 Pinot 87 shows round, thick aromas of stone fruit and 86 opens with good structure, a silky mouthfeel 85 Grigio (Delle Venezie). Full and generous, honeydew melon. The bouquet is sophisticated, and the and abundant aromas of stone fruit and citrus. Prestige this has creamy peach and apricot aromas backed by mouthfeel is lean and fresh. Kobrand. —M.L. Wine Group. —M.L. a slightly spicy touch of vanilla bean and caramel. Pair abv: 13% Price: $22 abv: 13% Price: $14 this wine with coconut curry. Riondo USA. Best Buy. —M.L. Sirch 2011 Pinot Grigio (Venezia Giulia). Santi 2010 Sortesele Pinot Grigio (Delle abv: 12.5% Price: $10 87 Part of a wine series made from indigenous va- 86 Venezie). Irresistibly fresh and crisp, this has- rieties of northeast Italy, this easy-going effort shows bright aromas of lemon-lime, green apple and dried Ruffino 2011 Lumina Pinot Grigio (Delle medium structure, with a creamy fullness. The finish hay. Pair this with raw fish, sushi or swordfish carpaccio. 85 Venezie). Bright and clean, this drinks easily has bright endnotes of cut grass, lime and honeydew. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. thanks to its fresh aromas of citrus and stone fruit. The It’s perfect for appetizers or light summer lunches. Vi- abv: 12.5% Price: $14 compact, crisp mouthfeel finishes with a touch of grated nopoli Selections. —M.L. lemon zest. Constellation Brands, Inc. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $19 Torre di Luna 2011 Pinot Grigio (Delle abv: 12% Price: $NA 86 Venezie). This is exceptionally clean and sim- Tenuta di Angoris 2010 Vôs da Vigne Pi- ple, and it should drink easily with appetizers or salads. Tenuta Polvaro 2010 Pinot Grigio (Vene- 87 not Grigio (Collio). This opens with fragrant A note of zesty citrus marks the finish. Vias Imports. 85 zia). Bright citrus and bitter almond give this aromas of yellow rose, apricot, butterscotch and spicy —M.L. a sharp, tonic personality. Pair this easy, food-friendly vanilla. It has edium density, with a fresh mouthfeel abv: 13% Price: $NA wine with sushi or Thai food. Arel Group Wine and lending this a unique personality. Enotria Wine Import. Spirits Inc.. —M.L. —M.L. Villa Rubini 2010 Pinot Grigio (Colli Ori- abv: 13% Price: $14 abv: 13% Price: $NA 86 entali del Friuli). Fresh and food friendly, this has light aromas of citrus, peach and caramel. The wine Tiamo 2011 Pinot Grigio (Veneto). Easy, Tramin 2011 Pinot Grigio (Alto Adige). is immediate and direct thanks to its natural freshness. 85 toned and fresh, this opens with citrus, peach 87 Exceedingly fresh and fragrant, this has me- U.S. Wine Imports. —M.L. and honey aromas. The mouthfeel is lean, sharp and dium structure, with bright stone fruit and citrus aro- abv: 13% Price: $16 brightly acidic. Winesellers Ltd. —M.L. mas. It should pair with smoked salmon or tuna tartare. abv: 12% Price: $12 Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. Anna Spinato 2011 Pinot Grigio (Marca abv: 13.5% Price: $15 85 Trevigiana). Very easy and fresh, this offers a Villa Rubini 2011 Pinot Grigio (Colli Ori- quick succession of grapefruit, apricot and lemongrass 85 entali del Friuli). Fresh, tart and crisp, this Zenato 2011 Pinot Grigio (Delle Venezie). aromas. It’s a simple wine that should taste great with balances its natural acidity against sun-ripened aromas 87 One of the flagship wineries of Italy’s Veneto re- summer salads. Megawine Inc. —M.L. of peach and honeydew. USA Wine Imports. —M.L. gion, Zenato offers sophisticated reds (like Amarone) abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $14 and easy-drinking whites like this fresh Pinot Grigio. It show creamy richness, bright acidity and lively notes of Barone 2011 Pinot Grigio (Delle Venezie). Villa Rubini 2011 Pinot Grigio (Delle lemon, pear and peach. Winebow. —M.L. 85 This no-fuss wine is redolent of lemon soda, cut 85 Venezie). A great value wine, this opens with abv: 12.5% Price: $NA grass and bitter almond. The mouthfeel is clean and fresh, easy aromas of citrus, melon and dried hay. It has fresh. Bedford International. Best Buy. —M.L. good depth and a smooth texture. U.S. Wine Imports. Astoria 2011 Alìsia Pinot Grigio (Delle abv: 12% Price: $10 Best Buy. —M.L. 86 Venezie). Packaged in a short, squat bottle, abv: 12.5% Price: $10 this a clean, modern wine, with bright aromas of cut Caposaldo 2011 Pinot Grigio (Veneto). grass, apricot and bright lemon zest. Prestige Wine 85 Easy and fresh, with a simple, crisp finish, this Angelini 2011 Pinot Grigio (Veneto). Very Group. Best Buy. —M.L. should pair with garden greens or sliced tomato and 84 simple and straightforward, this bright wine abv: 12.5% Price: $10 mozzarella. —M.L. opens with aromas of lime, cut grass and white peach. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA It’s crisp and lean on the finish. Angelini Wine. —M.L. Conte Brandolini 2010 D’Adda Pinot Gri- abv: 12% Price: $11 86 gio (Friuli Grave). Lean and easy, this has Cavit 2011 Pinot Grigio (Delle Venezie). bright peach, apricot and lemon-lime aromas. A bright 85 Cavit is an important wine cooperative in north- Bosco del Merlo 2010 Pinot Grigio (Li- note of tangerine skin appears on the finish. Palm Bay ern Italy that is largely responsible for Pinot Grigio’s 84 son-Pramaggiore). Packed with honeysuckle International. —M.L. immense popularity in the United States. This bottle and citrus, this offers background tones of dried mint abv: 12.5% Price: $15 shows easy tones of peach and citrus. Palm Bay Interna- and crushed mineral. The finish is sharp and spicy. Ser- tional. Best Buy. —M.L. endipity Wine Imports. —M.L. Conte d’Attimis-Maniago 2010 Casoli abv: 12% Price: $10 abv: 12.5% Price: $16 86 Maniago Pinot Grigio (Colli Orientali del Friuli). This is an easy white wine with balanced acidity. Natale Verga 2011 Pinot Grigio (Veneto). El Vin 2010 Pinot Grigio (Marca Trevigia- There’s a spicy note of crushed clove or exotic spice at 85 This casual wine shows aromas of lemon soda, 84 na). This opens with saccharine sweet tones the start that is smoothed out by softer aromas of peach cut grass and ripe peach. The mouthful is simple and of lemon soda and peach cobbler. The close is chewy cobbler and lemon mousse. Siena Imports. —M.L. fresh. Jandell Selections. Best Buy. —M.L. and soft, with ripe honeydew flavors. Royalty Import- abv: 12.5% Price: $17 abv: 12% Price: $10 ers. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $NA Pitars 2010 Pinot Grigio (Friuli Grave). Paladin 2010 Pinot Grigio (Delle Vene- 86 This has a smooth structure and yellow fruit 85 zie). Simple, broad and slightly oily at first, Esperto 2011 Pinot Grigio (Delle Vene- aromas. This wine also adds a grassy twist of dried herb this has generous melon and apricot aromas. There is 84 zie). Fresh, easy-going and clean, this has aro- or rosemary on the finish. Great Sunsan Wine Imports. enough natural acidity to brighten the palate. Serendip- mas of apricot, lemon and honeydew. It should pair with —M.L. ity Wine Imports. —M.L. seafood or melon with sliced prosciutto. MW Imports. abv: 12.5% Price: $14 abv: 12% Price: $12 —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

WineMag.com | 53 La Corte 2010 Pinot Grigio (Delle Vene- Adami 2011 Vigneto Giardino Dry Rive di Prosecco Superiore to give the wine a broader, bolder 84 zie). Very easy-going, this light effort delivers 90 Colbertaldo ( Valdobbiadene mouthfeel. The addition works nicely on the bouquet, aromas of cut grass, lemon and crushed stone. Great Prosecco Superiore). Here is a beautiful Prosecco lending a pretty tone of exotic fruit and a drying touch Sunsan Wine Imports. —M.L. Superiore, with soft, foaming bubbles and feminine aro- of flinty mineral. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $10 mas of stone fruit and honey. The finish has balanced abv: 11% Price: $18 acidity, with a drying note of crushed mineral. Dalla Stival 2010 Pinot Grigio (Veneto). From a Terra Winery Direct. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. Adami NV Dei Casel Extra Dry (Coneglia- 84 dynamic, family-run wine estate in northern It- abv: 11% Price: $20 88 no Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). aly, this light Pinot Grigio offers aromas of lemon soda, Adami makes a wonderful interpretation of extra dry peach and tangerine skin. Laird & Company. —M.L. Mionetto 2010 Rive di San Pietro di Bar- Prosecco—the most popular and arguably the most tra- abv: 12% Price: $10 90 bozza Millesimato Brut (Conegliano Val- ditional expression of Prosecco Superiore. This offers dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This vintage- friendly tones of spring flower and honey. Dalla Terra Antica Corte 2010 Pinot Grigio (Delle dated Prosecco is arguably one of the best this estate Winery Direct. —M.L. 83 Venezie). There’s a touch of lemon soda or has ever produced. There’s a sultry hint of sophistication abv: 11% Price: $18 lollipop at the start that is soon rounded off by fresher here, with toasted almond, yellow rose and exotic fruit. aromas of peach and grapefruit. This is a simple, easy- Rive di San Pietro di Barbozza is one of the new vine- Astoria 2011 Casa Vittorino Millesimato drinking effort. Saranty Imports. —M.L. yard crus recognized in the Prosecco region. Mionetto 88 Brut Rive di (Conegliano Val- abv: 12% Price: $NA USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). As a way of giv- abv: 11% Price: $20 ing consumers greater understanding of where Prosec- Candoni 2010 Pinot Grigio (Friuli Grave). co Superiore fruit is harvested, many producers now 83 Round and slightly heavy, this offers aromas of Bisol NV Crede Brut (Conegliano Valdob- identify the vineyard designation on their labels. This lemon soda, butterscotch and apricot. The mouthfeel 89 biadene Prosecco Superiore). This offers expression shows great intensity, with bright bubbles is soft and creamy. Arel Group Wine and Spirits Inc.. delicious fruit flavors, with crisp lines and steady per- and a note of stone fruit. Prestige Wine Group. —M.L. —M.L. lage. With little detectable sweetness, this sould pair abv: 11.5% Price: $25 abv: 12% Price: $10 with fried finger foods or appetizers. Vias Imports. —M.L. Astoria 2011 Cuvée Tenuta Val de Brun Cielo e Terra 2010 Cielo Pinot Grigio abv: 11.5% Price: $24 88 Millesimato Extra Dry (Conegliano Val- 83 (Delle Venezie). Made by the folks at the dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This has white Cantine Colli Berici, this is ripe and round, with aromas Le Colture NV Fagher Brut (Conegliano foam, creamy perlage and a very soft texture. On the of apricot, vanilla and butterscotch. —M.L. 89 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). A finish, this shows flavors of peach cobbler and lemon abv: 12% Price: $8 terrific sparkling wine that embodies Prosecco’s fresh mousse, with a touch of tangerine zest. Prestige Wine informality and personality. It’s rich, cleansing mousse Group. —M.L. is followed by generous tones of stone fruit and citrus. T. abv: 11.5% Price: $25 OTHER STILL WHITES Edward Wines Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. Mezzacorona 2011 Chardonnay (Vigneti abv: 11.5% Price: $15 Bellenda 2009 Millesimato S.C. 1931 Pas 87 delle Dolomiti). The nose offers easy tones of 88 Dosé (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pro- creamy apricot and almond paste, with bright accents of Progettidivini 2011 Rive di Soligo Mil- secco Superiore). A rarity that is definitely worth tangerine and lemon. The mouthfeel is soft and plush. 89 lesimato Dry (Conegliano Valdobbi- finding, this is one of the only Metodo Classico Prosec- Prestige Wine Imports Corp. Best Buy. —M.L. adene Prosecco Superiore). One of the new co Superiore available today. In other words, the same abv: 13% Price: $9 vineyard-designate Proseccos, this bright sparkler storied technique used to make has been opens with delicate tones of crushed stone and white applied to this easy Italian bubbly. Dedicated to estate Mezzacorona 2011 Moscato (Vigneti del- pepper, with subtle background touches of citrus and founder Sergio Cosmo, this shows ripe melon and yel- 87 le Dolomiti). For full review see page 10. Best peach. It boasts creamy foam and a pretty spot of subtle low rose aromas. Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.L. Buy. sweetness on the finish. USA Wine Imports. Editors’ abv: 11.5% Price: $29 abv: 11.5% Price: $9 Choice. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $15 Bortolomiol 2011 Ius Naturae Brut Mil- Mezzacorona 2011 Riesling (Trentino). 88 lesimato (Conegliano Valdobbiadene 85 This is lightly fragrant, with a bright floral bou- Ruggeri & C. NV Giall’Oro Extra Dry Prosecco Superiore). Made with organically farmed quet. It offers the natural personality of this varietal 89 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco fruit, this opens with delicate tones of white flower, tan- without being overdone or too heavy. Bright, crisp and Superiore). This flagship Prosecco Superiore offers gerine blossom, almond and peach. The delicate ele- lean, it is the perfect companion to spicy Thai food. rich smoothness accented by fresh notes of apricot, gance continues onto the palate where the wine is soft, Prestige Wine Imports Corp. Best Buy. —M.L. honey and white flower. It ends with a playful endnote creamy and smooth. Wine Warehouse Imports. Best abv: 12.5% Price: $9 of succulent sweetness. Villa Italia. —M.L. Buy. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $19 abv: 11.5% Price: $NA CONEGLIANO Sorelle Bronca NV Particella 68 Brut Bortolotti NV Brut (Conegliano Valdobbi- 89 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco 88 adene Prosecco Superiore). This easy-go- VALDOBBIADENE Superiore). This beautiful Prosecco offers just a touch ing sparkler has more flower fragrances and overall aro- PROSECCO SUPERIORE of perfectly ripe summer fruit against a lively back- matic intensity than usually offered by a Prosecco Supe- ground of crushed stone, lemon zest and white almond. riore Brut. It is firm and tonic in the mouth. A Marc de Ruggeri & C. 2010 Giustino B. Extra Dry The finish is dry, clean and superfresh. Polaner Selec- Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L. (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco 91 tions. —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $16 Superiore). What consumers love about Prosecco is its abv: 11% Price: $20 pure informality and ease. This bright sparkler does just Bortolotti NV Extra Dry (Conegliano Val- that and would taste great with finger foods thanks to its Adami NV Bosco di Gica Brut (Coneglia- dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). A tiny crisp acidity and persistent bubbles. Villa Italia. —M.L. 88 no Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). percentage of Chardonnay is added to this Prosecco Su- abv: 11.5% Price: $30 88 Franco Adami adds just 5% Chardonnay to his Brut periore, giving it a small boost in terms of structure and

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 creaminess. That addition adds a scent of fresh fruit, pretty Prosecco delivers elegant aromas of pear, white Ruggeri & C. 2010 Vecchie Viti Brut with subtle hints of apricot and exotic spice. A Marc de flower and honey. Thanks to a tangy touch of sweetness 88 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Grazia selection; various American importers. Editors’ and the wine’s creamy mousse, this could be paired with Superiore). From one of the most beautiful vineyards Choice. —M.L. smoked salmon or prosciutto di Parma. Epic Wines. in the Prosecco Superiore area, this uses fruit sourced abv: 11.5% Price: $16 —M.L. from romantically gnarled and twisted old vines. It has abv: 11% Price: $20 crystalline aromas of stone fruit, citrus, almond and Bortolotti NV Extra Dry 47 (Conegliano crushed white mineral. Villa Italia. —M.L. 88 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Malibràn 2011 Millesimato Dry (Conegli- abv: 12% Price: $NA The grape used to make Prosecco Superiore () is 88 ano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). blended with 10% Pinot Bianco to give this pretty spar- This has very nice aromatic intensity, boasting layers of Sorelle Bronca NV Brut (Conegliano Val- kler slightly more structure and density in the mouth. peach blossom, jasmine and honey. Sweet peach tones 88 dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Sorelle The wine’s smooth texture is backed by fragrant tones of appear on the close and are enhanced by the wine’s Bronca is a benchmark winery that consistently delivers peach and almond blossom. A Marc de Grazia selection; creamy texture. Admiralty Beverage. —M.L. one of the most elegant and refined expressions of Pro- various American importers. —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $27 secco available today. This opens with drying mineral abv: 11.5% Price: $18 notes and feminine touches of honey and white rose on Malibràn 2010 5 Grammi Brut (Coneg- the finish. Triage Wines. —M.L. Carmina 2011 Cuvée C Extra Dry (Coneg- 88 liano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Supe- abv: 11% Price: $15 88 liano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Supe- riore). A unique fruit aroma is highlighted with notes riore). On the nose, the sparkling wine delivers tones of almond, yellow rose and cracked white pepper. Sorelle Bronca NV Extra Dry (Coneglia- of citrus, peach and crushed white pepper. Fifteen per- The mouthfeel is creamy and soft thanks to the frothy 88 no Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). cent Pinot Bianco is added to this Prosecco Superiore, mousse. Admiralty Beverage. —M.L. This boasts just the right touch of distant sweetness that giving it a noticeably richer and smoother mouthfeel. abv: 11.5% Price: $30 makes it perfect to serve with cocktails and finger foods. Empire Distributors of North Carolina. —M.L. It closes with fresh tones of peach nectar and lemon abv: 11.5% Price: $20 Masottina 2011 Le Rive di Ogliano Mil- zest. Polaner Selections. —M.L. 88 lesimato Extra Dry (Conegliano Valdob- abv: 11% Price: $15 Col Vetoraz Spumanti 2011 Brut (Coneg- biadene Prosecco Superiore). From the Rive di 88 liano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Supe- Ogliano Cru, this offers impressive balance between Toffoli 2011 Rive di Refrontolo Millesi- riore). A polished and very tonic effort, with a sharp its crisp acidic side and its succulent sweet side. In be- 88 mato Extra Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiad- personality and bright aromas of lemon, white flower, tween are lovely layers of stone fruit and honey. Epicur ene Prosecco Superiore). From the Rive di Refron- flint and crushed white pepper. It’s crisp and balanced Wines. —M.L. tolo Cru, this shows clean aromas of citrus and peach, overall. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $29 with a rich, foamy quality of bubbles. Premium Brands. abv: 11.5% Price: $18 —M.L. Mionetto NV MO Extra Dry (Conegliano abv: 11.5% Price: $18 De Faveri 2011 Millesimato Brut (Coneg- 88 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This 88 liano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Supe- lively sparkler has played an important role in making Val d’Oca 2010 Uvaggio Storico Dry riore). This delivers a delicately fragrant bouquet of Prosecco one of the most popular wines in the United 88 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco white flower, stone fruit and lemon zest backed by a States. Its a textbook rendition, with peach nectar, tan- Superiore). Aromas of white flower and peach pulp spicy touch of cracked white pepper. Pair this bright gerine and a soft, creamy finish. Mionetto USA.Edi - reinforce this sparkler’s overall softness and creaminess. sparkler with smoked salmon on toast. Ideal Wine and tors’ Choice. —M.L. Solstars Inc. —M.L. Spirits Co. Inc. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $18 abv: 11.5% Price: $22 abv: 11% Price: $28 Montesel NV Vigna del Paradiso Extra Vettori NV Extra Dry (Conegliano Valdob- Drusian 2011 Millesimato Dry (Coneglia- 88 Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosec- 88 biadene Prosecco Superiore). A pretty 88 no Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). co Superiore). A sharp note of crushed white pep- hint of peach or fresh tangerine appears on the bou- This opens with a fragrant bouquet of white flower, nec- per gives this a bright, pungent bouquet. The aromas quet of this lively sparkler. Sweet softness in the palate tarine and fresh honeydew melon, leading to soft fizz are softened by pretty notes of peach, dried herb and is cleaned away thanks to the wine’s fresh acidity and and steady perlage in the mouth. Panebianco. —M.L. clove. This has loads of personality and depth. Tricana foamy bubbles. David Vincent Selection. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $20 Imports. —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $19 abv: 11.5% Price: $20 Il Follo 2011 Villa Luigia Millesimato Ex- Borgoluce NV Brut (Prosecco di Valdob- 88 tra Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pro- Perlage 2010 Col di Manza Millesimato 87 biadene Superiore). For full review see page secco Superiore). A very clean wine, with intense 88 Rive di Ogliano Extra Dry (Conegliano 9. aromas of fruit and white flower followed by soft per- Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Col di Man- abv: 11.5% Price: $22 lage and a plush, creamy texture. It could work with za has it all: It’s a vineyard-designate, vintage-dated Pro- easy finger foods, or be consumed on its own. Vanguard secco Superiore made with organically and biodynam- Borgoluce NV Extra Dry (Conegliano Val- Wines. —M.L. ically farmed fruit. It’s a mouthful, with soft efferves- 87 dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). The abv: 11.5% Price: $18 cence and fruit intensity. Chartrand Imports. Editors’ term “extra dry” refers to the slightly soft sensations of Choice. —M.L. sweetness and roundness on display here. That plush L’Antica Quercia 2010 Arió Extra Dry abv: 11.5% Price: $18 softness provides an excellent platform for the wine’s 88 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco aromas of white flower, peach and honey. The Sorting Superiore). Fresh in terms of acidity and soft in terms Ruggeri & C. NV Santo Stefano Dry Table. —M.L. of fruity sweetness, this pretty sparkler delivers the best 88 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco abv: 11.5% Price: $22 qualities. Pair this with lightly fried vegetable tempura. Superiore). This offers a bright and intense bouquet VGV Imports. —M.L. of white flower, peach blossom, almond paste and or- Cà Salina NV Siròcol Extra Dry (Conegli- abv: 11.5% Price: $22 ange zest. A pretty sensation of sweetness gives it a 87 ano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). round, creamy feel on the finish. Villa Italia. —M.L. Here’s a textbook Prosecco Superiore, with tight, foam- Le Colture NV Cruner Dry (Conegliano abv: 11% Price: $19 ing bubbles and fresh aromas of stone fruit, lemon 88 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This mousse and peach cobbler. The wine is easy to drink

WineMag.com | 55 and does a great job of keeping the palate refreshed. Superiore, this shows more dryness than it does sweet- is bright, clean and refreshing. Wine Emporium. Best Progetto Veneto. —M.L. ness. The finish is tonic and firm, with notes of white Buy. —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $15 flower, peach and honey. Wine Twist. —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $12 abv: 11.5% Price: $13 Cantine Maschio NV Maschio dei - Le Manzane NV Extra Dry (Conegliano 87 lieri Brut Rive di Colbertaldo (Coneglia- Gemin NV Brut (Conegliano Valdobbi- 87 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). A no Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Crisp, 87 adene Prosecco Superiore). This is lightly textbook Prosecco Superiore, with soft, foamy bubbles fresh and firm, this opens with steely effervescence and fragrant, with pear and apple notes. There’s a touch of and bright aromas of exotic fruit, spring flower and etched notes of flint, white pepper and delicate spring tart sweetness on the finish as well a foamy texture and dried herb. It’s easy going, with refreshing acidity on the flower. The finish is dry and bright. Banfi Vintners. bright acidity. It should pair with Brie- or Gouda-based finish. Wine Emporium. Best Buy. —M.L. —M.L. appetizers. Novo Imports. —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $12 abv: 11.5% Price: $19 abv: 12% Price: $NA Le Manzane 2010 Millesimato 20.10 Ex- Carlo Bisol Solighetto NV Coìne Extra Gemin NV Extra Dry (Conegliano Valdob- 87 tra Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pro- 87 Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pro- 87 biadene Prosecco Superiore). Vintner secco Superiore). This has flavors of fresh citrus and secco Superiore). This opens with impressive soft- Guglielmo Bortolomiol (not to be confused with the intense, fragrant flowers. The finish has notes of lime ness and creaminess that’s enhanced by fragrant tones Prosecco estate of the same name) delivers a dry, tonic and white peach, with a soft, lush feeling and creamy of peach cobbler and lemon mousse. Pair this with sparkler with steely effervescence and soft tones of yel- bubbles. Wine Emporium. —M.L. swordfish carpaccio marinated in lemon and chopped low fruit and spring flower. Novo Imports. —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $14 mint. Casa Torelli . —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA abv: 11% Price: $28 Malibràn 2011 Ruio Brut (Conegliano Gregoletto NV Extra Dry (Conegliano Val- 87 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). An Carmina NV Extra Dry (Conegliano Val- 87 dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Citrus, easy match to finger foods or appetizers, this lively Brut 87 dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Creamy pear and peach open the bouquet. The palate shows a sparkler shows tonic perlage and fresh notes of white foam builds in the glass as the wine is poured. Its lush soft, creamy perlage, with a tangerine note and even a fruit, grapefruit and crushed stone. Its bright acidity softness is backed by fragrant tones of almond blos- touch of crushed clove, giving this sparkler a unique will help keep the palate refreshed and clean. Admiralty som, peach and lemon mousse. Empire Distributors of personality. Omniwines Distribution. —M.L. Beverage. —M.L. North Carolina. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $NA abv: 11.5% Price: $22 abv: 11.5% Price: $16 L’Antica Quercia NV Matiù Brut (Conegli- Masottina NV Brut (Conegliano Val- Conte Collalto NV Extra Dry (Coneglia- 87 ano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). 87 dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Food 87 no Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This offers beautiful purity of aromas, with subtle friendly and simple, this possesses a uniquely firm struc- There’s a sweet, succulent quality to this sparkler, layers of crushed stone, flint, lemon zest and stone fruit. ture, with tonic perlage and spicy notes of white pepper expressing notes of lemon pie and honeydew. It’s soft This sparkling wine is easy and fresh on the finish, with a and field flower. It’s bright, fresh and very dry on the and creamy on the finish thanks to the rich and per- bright endnote of fresh grapefruit and lemon zest. VGV close. Epicur Wines. —M.L. sistent quality of the effervescence. Alberello Imports. Imports. —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $19 —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $20 abv: 11.5% Price: $15 Masottina NV Extra Dry (Conegliano Val- La Farra NV Extra Dry (Conegliano Val- 87 dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). The Drusian NV Brut (Conegliano Valdobbi- 87 dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Bright perfect wine for afternoon snack foods, this offers soft, 87 adene Prosecco Superiore). A small per- fruit tones of peach, melon and Golden Delicious ap- creamy bubbles with fresh fruit aromas. Try this with centage of outside grapes is added to the blend for a ple sit with the soft, creamy perlage. Overall, there’s a baked potato skins with onion dip or fried zucchini flow- creamier and richer expression of Prosecco Superiore. feminine, delicate quality to this sparkler. Wine For All. ers. Epicur Wines. —M.L. Creamy and rich, this delivers a distant softness. The —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $19 mouthfeel is enhanced by flavors of peach, citrus and abv: 11% Price: $NA honey. Panebianco. —M.L. Montesel NV Riva dei Fiori Brut (Coneg- abv: 11% Price: $18 La Farra 2011 Millesimato Rive di Far- 87 liano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Supe- 87 ra di Soligo Extra Dry (Conegliano riore). Riva dei Fiori ("hillside of flowers") is an excit- Drusian NV Extra Dry (Conegliano Val- Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This ing vineyard cru that seems to impart flower aromas of 87 dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Simple vineyard-designate sparkler shows enormous softness jasmine and honeysuckle in its wines. On the finish is and clean, with bright a bright fruit flavor and a pretty and creaminess, with plush aromas of peach, sweet steady perlage and creamy effervescence. Tricana Im- flower note, this should pair with Thai spring rolls or grapefruit and sweet almond flower. Wine For All. ports. —M.L. smoked salmon appetizers. The perlage is fine, soft and —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $20 creamy. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $17 abv: 11% Price: $18 Progettidivini NV Brut (Conegliano Val- La Gioiosa NV Etamorosa Extra Dry 87 dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This Foss Marai NV Strada di Guia, 109 Brut 87 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco opens with a drying bouquet of white flower, peach, tal- 87 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This shows bright floral tones of hon- cum powder and crushed mineral. A small percent of Superiore). Very pretty, simple and clean, this opens eysuckle and citrus blossom backed by notes of stone Pinot Bianco is added to the wine for extra smoothness with sharp, tonic perlage followed by etched aromas of fruit and dried grass. It’s creamy and smooth, with a dis- and structure. USA Wine Imports. Best Buy. —M.L. talcum powder, citrus and white flower. Overall, this tant touch of sweetness on the finish. La Gioiosa USA. abv: 11% Price: $12 sparkling expression is extremely firm and clean. Wine —M.L. Twist. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $18 Progettidivini NV Extra Dry (Conegliano abv: 11.5% Price: $13 87 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This Le Manzane NV Brut (Conegliano Val- bright sparkling wine delivers a touch of sassy spice in Foss Marai NV Strada di Guia, 109 Extra 87 dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). On front of softer aromas of stone fruit, white flower and 87 Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosec- the nose, this has aromas of stone fruit and melon that co Superiore). Despite being an Extra Dry Prosecco lend the wine depth and personality. The mouthfeel

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 dried herb. Pair this with cocktail snacks, like potato This cheerful sparkling wine should pair well with but- This is smooth and creamy on the finish. Siena Imports. chips or green olives. USA Wine Imports. —M.L. tered popcorn or salted nuts.Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $13 —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $16 abv: 11.5% Price: $19 Progettidivini 2011 Millesimato Extra Dry Carpenè Malvolti NV Extra Dry (Conegli- 87 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Vettori NV V Brut (Conegliano Valdobbi- 86 ano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Superiore). Offering the creamy and floral intensity 87 adene Prosecco Superiore). Fresh and cit- Direct and immediate, this crisp effort shows pretty bal- of sparkling wines at double the price, this bears subtle rusy, this is heavy on tangerine and grapefruit aromas. ance between its sweet fruit and zesty citrus elements. notes of peach, white flower, brimstone and dried herb. It offers steady, foamy perlage that gives the wine soft- A perfect summer-sipping sparkling wine. Siena Im- USA Wine Imports. Best Buy. —M.L. ness and richness on the finish. David Vincent Selec- ports. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $12 tion. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $16 abv: 11.5% Price: $19 Silvano Follador 2010 Brut (Coneglia- Col de’ Salici 2011 Extra Dry (Conegliano 87 no Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Villa Sandi NV Extra Dry (Conegliano Val- 86 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This Subtle fragrances of white flower and pear mark the 87 dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). The bright and youthful sparkler offers a thin mouthfeel that nose. Lean and crisp, its natural acidity makes it perfect quintessential summer sipping wine, this opens with is embellished by foamy cream and persistent efferves- for fried finger foods. K&L Wine Merchants. —M.L. fresh aromas of citrus, white flower and stone fruit. It cence. The bouquet is simple, fresh and fruit forward. abv: 11.5% Price: $20 follows to the palate with foamy bubbles and a bright Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —M.L. touch of acidity. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $16 Tenuta Santomè NV Bosco Coste Brut abv: 11% Price: $18 87 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Giavi NV Prima Volta Brut (Conegliano Superiore). Steely effervescence, bright acidity and Bellenda 2011 Millesimato San Fermo 86 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). tonic crispness is followed by subtle tones of peach and 86 Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosec- Founded in 1914, Giavi delivers a dry, crisp Prosec- white rose. This sparkler is clean and bone dry on the co Superiore). San Fermo is a historic sparkling wine co Superiore Brut, with bright lemon-lime flavors and finish. VinUS Inc. —M.L. from the Conegliano subzone of Prosecco Superiore background notes of flint and talcum powder. Pair this abv: 11.5% Price: $24 that offers intensely floral aromas of yellow rose, apricot with bite-sized, cheesy quiche appetizers. Andrew Wi- and honey. The mouthfeel is lightly fizzy and creamy. erda Cellar Selection. —M.L. Terre di San Venanzio Fortunato NV Brut Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $NA 87 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco abv: 11.5% Price: $19 Superiore). Simple, fresh and direct, this delivers all Giavi 2011 Prima Volta Millesimato Dry the easy-drinking sparkling intensity you should expect Bellenda 2011 Miraval Millesimato Ex- 86 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco from Prosecco. Pair it with fried seafood or vegetable 86 tra Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pro- Superiore). Prima Volta ("first time") is a fresh and tempura. K&L Wine Merchants. —M.L. secco Superiore). A genuine, honest sparkler, this easy wine, with medium intensity and bright aromas of abv: 11.5% Price: $14 has simple tones of almond paste and lemon soda. The honey, peach and white flower. The mouthfeel is lean mouthfeel is held steady by foamy cream and bright ef- and compact, but the persistent perlage keeps it lively. Terre di San Venanzio Fortunato NV Extra fervescence. Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.L. Andrew Wierda Cellar Selection. —M.L. 87 Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosec- abv: 11.5% Price: $19 abv: 11% Price: $NA co Superiore). A playful touch of sweetness appears in the mouth, giving this an added sense of softness and Bianca Vigna 2011 Millesimato Brut La Farra NV Brut (Conegliano Valdobbi- dimension. Its momentum is carried forth thanks to soft 86 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco 86 adene Prosecco Superiore). Simple and tones of peach, honey and jasmine. Artisan Wines, Inc. Superiore). This sparkler opens with tonic, almost fresh, this offers the easy-drinking experience that —M.L. steely perlage that tickles the nose. The bouquet is com- has made Prosecco Superiore a world-wide sensation. abv: 11.5% Price: $14 prised of crushed stone and white peach, and there’s a Thanks to its peach and citrus aromas, this should go distant hint of honey at the close. Indigenous Selec- down beautifully with a simple platter of grilled vegeta- Toffoli 2010 Rive di Refrontolo Millesima- tions. —M.L. bles. J. Strecker Selections. —M.L. 87 to Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pro- abv: 11.5% Price: $15 abv: 11% Price: $16 secco Superiore). "Rive di Refrontolo" refers to the specific vineyard cru where the fruit was harvested. Pro- Cà Vittoria NV Costa dei Peschi Brut Perlage NV Canah Brut (Conegliano Val- ducers have opted to label their wines with Rive desig- 86 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco 86 dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Made nations only recently. This expression is light and beau- Superiore). This delivers fresh aromas of white peach with organically farmed fruit, this shows simple lines of tiful, with defined peach and citrus aromas followed by and sun-ripened apricot. Dry and tonic on the palate, citrus, peach blossom and crushed granite. The finish crushed stone and talcum powder. Premium Brands. this has a lively blast of acidity on the finish. North is dry and tonic thanks to the firm and steady perlage. —M.L. Berkeley Imports. —M.L. Chartrand Imports. —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $18 abv: 11.5% Price: $17 abv: 11.5% Price: $15

Val d’Oca 2011 Millesimato Extra Dry Canella NV Conegliano Valdobbiadene Perlage 2011 Animae Brut Millesimato 87 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco 86 Prosecco Superiore. The simple bouquet 86 (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This opens with a soft, creamy texture is dominated by white rose and peach blossom aromas. Superiore). Made without the addition of sulfites, and ripe aromas of spring flower, stone fruit and lem- This shows a nice quality of creamy effervescence as this has untamed, raw aromas of tangerine skin, honey, on blossom. There’s a touch of sweetness on the close well. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. ripe melon and yellow rose. The fruit was organically that would pair with light cocktail snacks. Solstars Inc. abv: 11% Price: $NA farmed. Chartrand Imports. —M.L. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $25 abv: 11% Price: $19 Carpenè Malvolti NV Cuvée Brut (Coneg- 86 liano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Supe- Serre Spumanti NV Lovrè Extra Dry Rive Valdo NV Oro Puro Brut (Conegliano Val- riore). There’s a touch of burnt almond at the start, 86 di Combai (Conegliano Valdobbiadene 87 dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). The but this bright effort soon picks up speed thanks to Prosecco Superiore). Food friendly, this has soft wine’s natural acidity keeps the palate refreshed and the delicate aromas of honey, cantaloupe and white peach. tones of peach and melon. There’s a touch of fresh acid- bouquet offers cleansing notes of citrus and honeydew.

WineMag.com | 57 ity that helps to smooth out the naturally rich perlage. ish thanks to its creamy perlage and honey-like tone. spicy endnote that recalls cracked white pepper. T. Ed- Italian Imports. —M.L. BelVino LLC. —M.L. ward Wines Ltd. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $21 abv: 11% Price: $20 abv: 11% Price: $30

Serre Spumanti NV Tréser Brut Rive di Montelvini Venegazzù NV Extra Dry (Aso- Mionetto NV Dry (Prosecco Superiore di 86 Combai (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Pro- 86 lo Prosecco Superiore). From the ever- 90 Cartizze). Mionetto shows its best side with secco Superiore). Easy, simple and bone dry, this emerging Asolo subregion of Prosecco Superiore, this this luminous sparkler from the celebrated Cartizze should pair with slightly sweet appetizers based on is a fresh, tonic Prosecco, with a subdued nose of white Cru. Delicate, elegant and feminine, this shows an em- cream or cheese. Its bright, crisp acidity also helps cut flower and crushed stone. The sparkling wine is on the broidery of stone fruit, white flower and citrus aromas. through those fatty foods. Italian Imports. —M.L. drier side of extra dry—a style that usually shows some Very nice. Mionetto USA. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $21 sweetness. Wine Twist. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $35 abv: 12% Price: $15 Sommariva NV Brut (Conegliano Val- Carlo Bisol Solighetto NV Coìme Cartizze 86 dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Simple Bele Casel NV Col Fóndo (Asolo Prosec- 89 Dry (Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartiz- lines, bright fruit flavors, creamy bubbles and fresh ac- 85 co Superiore). For this sparkler, fermentation ze). Coìme Cartizze offers spicy sensations of toasted ids are what make good Prosecco Superiore. This wine occurs inside of the bottle instead of large pressurized almond and tangerine skin. The natural fruit intensity is has all these qualities and delivers them in a clean and tanks like the majority of Prosecco. This is simple and impressive here, and the wine offers smooth sweetness determined manner. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. fresh, with a bright, almost sour, citrus-driven finish. Pe- on the finish. Casa Torelli . —M.L. —M.L. tit Pois Corporation. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $62 abv: 11.5% Price: $15 abv: 11% Price: $16

Canella NV Extra Dry (Conegliano Val- Loredan Gasparini NV Brut (Asolo Pro- PROSECCO TREVISO dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). secco Superiore). 85 This 84 A very simple Prosecco, De Faveri NV Frizzante Spago (Prosec- opens with a slightly pungent note of ripe cantaloupe with clean lines underscored by subtle tones of white co Treviso). In a nod to the most heartfelt of and apricot. Distant sweetness and touch of butter- flower, peach and citrus. In fact, the close is marked by 87 Veneto wine traditions, the bottle is closed with white scotch or caramel is detected on the creamy finish. lemon zest and grapefruit. Panebianco. —M.L. string that holds the cork in place. Once open, the bot- Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $NA tle boasts bright perfumes of peach blossom, honey and abv: 11% Price: $19 citrus. Ideal Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $22 Tenuta Polvaro NV Extra Dry (Conegliano VALDOBBIADENE Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). 84 A SUPERIORE DI CARTIZZE De Stefani NV Zero Gran Cuvée Extra Dry ripe note of honeydew, apricot and butterscotch opens (Prosecco Treviso). Prosecco tastes great the bouquet of this lively sparkler. There’s a chewy Ruggeri & C. NV Cartizze Dry (Valdobbi- 87 when it offers a measured flirtation of sweetness on the touch of sticky sweetness on the close. Arel Group Wine adene Superiore di Cartizze). Cartizze ex- 91 finish—as found in this wine. A soft, creamy mouthfeel and Spirits Inc.. —M.L. pressions of Prosecco Superiore tend to offer exception- is followed by peach blossom, citrus and honey. Vigneti abv: 11.5% Price: $17 al creaminess in the mouth—thanks to the foamy qual- ity of the perlage—and sweet fruit on the close. This D’Italia. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $25 expression from one of the area’s most historic winer- ies lives beautifully up to this reputation. Villa Italia. ASOLO PROSECCO Il Follo NV Cuvée Rustot Brut (Prosecco —M.L. SUPERIORE Treviso). A tiny percentage of Verdiso is added abv: 11.5% Price: $NA 87 Bele Casel 2010 Millesimato Dry (Asolo to the blend, lending this a bright green note of lime 87 Prosecco Superiore). A drying touch of tal- Bisol 2010 Cartizze Dry (Valdobbiadene and honeydew. This Prosecco also shows extra depth cum powder or crushed white pepper is followed by Superiore di Cartizze). For full review see and structure. Vanguard Wines. —M.L. 90 abv: 11.5% Price: $16 beautifully intense notes of peach, apricot and honey. page 7. This has extra sweetness and softness on the finish. Petit abv: 11.5% Price: $50 La Jara 2011 Millesimato Dry (Prosecco Pois Corporation. —M.L. Treviso). Made with organically farmed fruit, abv: 11.5% Price: $17 Bortolotti NV Cartizze Dry (Valdobbiad- 87 90 ene Superiore di Cartizze). This offers a this is redolent of honeydew, jasmine, white peach and Bele Casel NV Extra Dry (Asolo Prosec- wonderful bouquet of white flower, peach, tangerine rose. It has a soft, foamy quality to its effervescence. co Superiore). This has a simple, streamlined skin and honey. The mouthfeel is creamy, rich, sweet World Wine Headquarters (USA Wine West). —M.L. 86 abv: 11.5% Price: $16 mouthfeel backed by subtle tones of stone fruit and cit- and smooth, with a touch of clean acidity at the end. rus. Overall, this feels fresh and easy. Petit Pois Corpo- A Marc de Grazia selection; various American import- Mionetto NV Brut (Prosecco Treviso). De- ration. —M.L. ers. —M.L. spite its dry mouthfeel and finish, this offers a abv: 11% Price: $17 abv: 11.5% Price: $24 87 touch of fragrant fruit and honey on its fresh bouquet. Case Paolin NV Brut (Asolo Prosecco Col Vetoraz Spumanti 2011 Cartizze Dry It’s simple and easy drinking, with a lively and cheerful Superiore). Simple tones of white fruit and (Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze). personality. Mionetto USA. —M.L. 86 90 abv: 11% Price: $16 crushed stone mark this sparkler. A touch of softness One of the only wineries built within the prestigious is offered by the creamy quality of the wine’s efferves- Cartizze Cru, Col Vetoraz delivers a rich Prosecco Su- Terra Serena NV Prosecco Treviso. This cence. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. periore that shows the mineral depth and sweet fruity boasts a lively nose, with clean aromas of tanger- abv: 11.5% Price: $18 personality of the vineyard. The mouthfeel is creamy, 87 ine skin, white almond and honey. It shows soft texture generous and frothy. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.L. and loads of foaming cream on the finish. Wine Mer- Dal Bello 2010 Millesimato Dry (Asolo abv: 11.5% Price: $30 Prosecco Superiore). This is neutral on the chants. —M.L. 86 abv: 11% Price: $20 nose, with passing aromas of delicate white flower and Le Colture NV Cartizze Dry (Valdobbiad- peach blossom. It delivers more personality on the fin- 90 ene Superiore di Cartizze). This has a del- icate floral tone and a touch of white mineral, with a

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 Valdellövo NV Anno Zero Extra Dry (Pro- and Golden Delicious apple. World Wine Headquar- the majority of Proseccos found on the market today. La 87 secco Treviso). Simple and straightforward, ters (USA Wine West). —M.L. Gioiosa USA. —M.L. this has honest aromas of yellow fruit and perfumed abv: 11.5% Price: $14 abv: 11% Price: $11 white flower. It’s an easy-drinking sparkler that should pair well with salads or raw fish. Delectatio Wines. Moletto NV Extra Dry (Prosecco Treviso). Mionetto NV Extra Dry (Prosecco Trev- —M.L. 86 Clean, bright and simple, this would taste great 85 iso). Made using organically grown grapes, abv: 11.5% Price: $16 on a hot summer afternoon by the pool. Citrus, stone this lively sparkler opens with aromas of yellow flower, fruit and crushed white-pepper notes emerge on the peach and moist hay. There’s a touch of honey and but- Anna Spinato NV Extra Dry (Prosec- finish. Laird & Company. —M.L. terscotch on the finish. Mionetto USA. —M.L. 86 co Treviso). This shows powdery aromas of abv: 12% Price: $16 abv: 11% Price: $17 talcum powder and crushed mineral, with subtle tones of apricot and tangerine skin at the back. Bright lemony Tenuta Santomè NV Brut (Prosecco Trev- Progettidivini 2011 Brut (Prosecco Trev- acidity brings up the rear. Megawine Inc. —M.L. 86 iso). An easy-going wine, with clean aromas 85 iso). Light gold in color, this opens with easy abv: 11.5% Price: $18 of crushed mineral, Golden Delicious apple and stone aromas of garden herb, tangerine and white flower. Pair fruit. Pair this with spicy Thai spring rolls. VinUS Inc. this with snack foods, such as toasted almonds or fried Astoria NV Extra Dry (Prosecco Treviso). —M.L. corn nuts. USA Wine Imports. Best Buy. —M.L. 86 Astoria is a tried-and-true estate that most al- abv: 11% Price: $16 abv: 11% Price: $9 ways delivers fresh, clean and correct expressions of Prosecco. This boasts lively aromas of stone fruit and Villa Cornaro NV Extra Dry (Prosecco Tenuta Santomè NV Extra Dry (Prosec- citrus backed by a soft, creamy mousse. Prestige Wine 86 Treviso). A cap of white, foamy cream sits tall 85 co Treviso). This opens with ripe aromas of Group. —M.L. on the surface of this sparkler. Aromas of honey, Golden cantaloupe, apricot and Golden Delicious apple, with abv: 11% Price: $NA Delicious apple and melon compose the bouquet. Ro- bright perlage and a creamy, smooth texture. VinUS livia, Inc. —M.L. Inc. —M.L. Astoria 2011 Celebration "S" Millesimato abv: 11% Price: $17 abv: 11% Price: $14 86 Dry (Prosecco Treviso). Cheerful and play- ful, this opens with bright aromas of dried hay, pear and Villa Sandi NV Il Fresco Brut (Prosecco Candoni NV Brut (Prosecco Treviso). A sweet grapefruit. A touch of sugary fruit on the close 86 Treviso). An attractive value, this is generous 84 touch of butterscotch and toasted almond add gives the wine a full and generous personality. Prestige and fresh, with layers of citrus, peach, honey and dried to the foamy, generous mouthfeel. Ripe fruit, bright Wine Group. —M.L. grass. Pair this with cheese appetizers or Parmigiano acidity and steely effervescence complete the package. abv: 11.5% Price: $13 chunks. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. Arel Group Wine and Spirits Inc.. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $16 abv: 11% Price: $14 Bele Casel NV Brut (Prosecco Treviso). 86 Aromas of peach, citrus and white flower mark Anna Spinato NV Gocce di Luna Moon- Casa Roma NV Frizzante Riserva (Pro- this wine. It has an easy approach that is enhanced by 85 drops Extra Dry (Prosecco Treviso). 84 secco Treviso). "Frizzante" refers to the fresh acidity and foamy bubbles. Petit Pois Corporation. This opens with creamy, soapy foam backed by deli- slightly softer and less intense quality of the bubbles in —M.L. cate notes of citrus, pear and Golden Delicious apple. this Italian sparkling wine. As tradition dictates, the bot- abv: 11% Price: $16 Easy drinking, this should pair with lightly fried appetiz- tle is closed with white string instead of a metal capsule. ers. Megawine Inc. —M.L. This offers subtle aromas of peach and citrus. —M.L. Cescon Italo Storia e Vini NV Arancio Ex- abv: 11.5% Price: $14 abv: 11.5% Price: $NA 86 tra Dry (Prosecco Treviso). This fresh spar- kler opens with firm structure and tonic bubbles backed Bottega NV Gold Brut (Prosecco Trev- by bright notes of lemon zest and tangerine skin. This 85 iso). Packaged in what looks like a solid gold PROSECCO easy effort could be paired with appetizers or consumed bottle, this easy sparkler offers fresh acidity and clean Astoria NV Cuvée Lounge Extra Dry (Pro- fruit aromas. The gold packaging gives this particular by itself. Bacco Wine & Spirit, LLC. —M.L. secco). This delivers top quality at an attrac- bottle a sassy, luxurious competitive edge. Palm Bay In- 87 abv: 11% Price: $17 tive price point, with floral aromas of jasmine, honey- ternational. —M.L. suckle and orange blossom. The finish is soft, feminine De Faveri NV Brut (Prosecco Trevi- abv: 11% Price: $NA and very smooth. Prestige Wine Group. —M.L. so). 86 Simple, clean and refreshingly crisp, this abv: 11% Price: $13 offers a subtle bouquet of pear and talcum powder fol- Casa Roma NV Pian dei Filari Extra Dry (Prosecco Treviso). lowed by steely effervescence and zesty lemon-lime 85 This easy Prosecco Borgo Magredo NV Extra Dry (Prosecco). shows delicate aromas of white flower, citrus and stone notes. The sparkler is perfect for fried mozzarella sticks Light and delicate, thist shows distant tones of fruit followed by a crisp, lean mouthfeel and a fresh 87 or stuffed zucchini flowers. Ideal Wine and Spirits Co. fragrant fruit and tangy citrus. Its natural sweetness finish. —M.L. Inc. —M.L. helps make the finish feel rich and generous. Bedford abv: 11.5% Price: $NA abv: 11% Price: $20 International. —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $15 La Jara NV Brut (Prosecco Treviso). Made Casabianca NV Brut (Prosecco Treviso). 86 using organically farmed fruit, this is a fresh, 85 Crisp and fresh, this has a bright bouquet of Borgo Magredo 2010 Brut Millesimato honey chopped herb and stone fruit. This simple spar- steady and youthful expression. It boasts simple lines, (Prosecco). Steady, firm and tonic, this offers kler would taste fantastic on a hot summer afternoon. 87 with loads of lemony freshness on the finish. World an informal bouquet of citrus and stone fruit followed —M.L. Wine Headquarters (USA Wine West). —M.L. by steely effervescence and fresh acidity. This Prosecco abv: 11% Price: $NA abv: 11.5% Price: $14 should pair with fried calamari or grilled shrimp. Bed- ford International. —M.L. La Jara NV Extra Dry (Prosecco Treviso). La Gioiosa NV Etamorosa Brut (Prosec- abv: 11.5% Price: $17 86 La Jara—an organic Prosecco producer—has 85 co Treviso). This offers fresh, soothing sensa- tions of citrus, dried grass and white flower. The style is shown happy improvements in quality over the years. La Marca NV Prosecco. For full review see Brut, which means this expression is slightly drier than This expression is redolent of pink grapefruit, peach 87 page 9. abv: 11% Price: $17

WineMag.com | 59 Macaron NV Prosecco. For full review see Paladin 2010 Extra Dry Millesimato (Pro- sparkler would be pleasant to consume at outdoor pic- 87 page 9. 86 secco). This delivers bright aromas of peach nics or summer barbecues. Vanguard Wines. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $15 blossom and lemon zest. It has steady perlage, with a abv: 11.5% Price: $13 touch of softness on the close that’s followed by a dense Mionetto NV Il Prosecco (Prosecco). mousse and foam. Serendipity Wine Imports. —M.L. Lamberti NV Extra Dry (Prosecco). A 87 Fresh and bright, this has lasting aromas of abv: 11.5% Price: $16 85 fresh sparkling wine, this has a bright bouquet stone fruit, lime and white flower. The mouthfeel is of stone fruit, citrus and white flower. It’s simple and creamy and soft thanks to the foamy quality of bubbles. Perlino NV Casa Martelletti Extra Dry lightweight, with a touch of spice. Frederick Wildman Mionetto USA. Best Buy. —M.L. 86 (Prosecco). This shows nice balance between & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 10.5% Price: $12 its sweetness and acidity. The sweetness comes forth ar- abv: 11% Price: $15 omatically with layers of apricot and honeydew. But the Tiziano NV Dry (Prosecco). Tiziano pres- wine’s natural freshness keeps the palate clean. Baccha- Lola NV Prosecco. Simple, fresh and perky, 87 ents a simple, sweet-smelling sparkler, with easy nal Wines. —M.L. 85 this has subtle background layers of citrus, aromas of peach, Golden Delicious apple, citrus and abv: 11% Price: $15 peach and dried hay. Atlas Imports. Best Buy. —M.L. white flower. The fragrant floral intensity is very direct abv: 11.5% Price: $10 and pleasing. Total Beverage Solution. —M.L. Pitars NV Extra Dry (Prosecco). There are abv: 11.5% Price: $15 86 notes of cut grass and honey on the bouquet. Piera Martellozzo NV 075 Carati Extra The bubble size is large, and a crisp endnote marks the 85 Dry (Prosecco). A refreshing sparkler—this Anna Spinato NV 4or Extra Dry (Prosec- finish. Great Sunsan Wine Imports. —M.L. opens with aromas of yellow flower and dried hay, with 86 co). As Italy’s first Prosecco with sleeve packag- abv: 11.5% Price: $18 soft background notes of peach and citrus. The close ing, this offers a cheerful and carefree expression, with is simple, creamy and fresh. The House Of Burgundy. sweet tones of peach and melon on the finish. Mega- Scanavino NV Extra Dry (Prosecco). —M.L. wine Inc. —M.L. 86 Thanks to its bright perlage and sweet floral abv: 11% Price: $15 abv: 11% Price: $19 bouquet, this could be served at an outdoor summer cocktail party. This is an easy wine that expresses the Piera Martellozzo 2011 Blu Giovello (Pro- Anna Spinato NV Mini (Prosecco). Pack- cheer of Italian sparking wine. Francoli USA. —M.L. 85 secco). Packaged in a bright blue bottle, this 86 aged in a pocket-friendly 187-ml bottle, this is abv: 11% Price: $17 the kind of easy-going sparkler meant for a hot summer fragrant and simple, with tonic, creamy foam and bright afternoon. It offers bright aromas of peach, citrus and aromas of peach, honeydew and jasmine. Megawine Tenuta Cà Bolani NV Brut (Prosecco). honeydew. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.L. Inc. —M.L. 86 Previously not in the Prosecco wine region, Te- abv: 11% Price: $13 abv: 11% Price: $5/187 ml nuta Cà Bolani was recently included in the enlarged appellation map that delineates the Prosecco produc- Riondo NV Spago Nero (Prosecco). Ca’ dei Zago 2011 Col Fondo (Prosec- tion zone. This is a thin expression, with easy aromas of 85 Foamy bubbles and lively aromas of citrus, 86 co). This small winery and family-run bed- stone fruit and citrus. Zonin USA. —M.L. peach and Golden Delicious apple mark this sparkler. and-breakfast takes an artisanal approach to winemak- abv: 11% Price: $19 It’s "frizzante," which means the effervescence is soft ing with this sparkler, which offers a yellow fruit flavor, and creamy. Riondo USA. —M.L. with accents of spice and bitter almond. Williams Cor- Val d’Oca 2011 Blue Millesimato Extra abv: 10.5% Price: $13 ner Wine. —M.L. 86 Dry (Prosecco). Packaged in an electric blue abv: 10.5% Price: $18 bottle, this opens with tones of cracked white pepper Riondo NV Spago Nero (Prosecco). Spago and fragrant field flower. There’s a touch of sweet soft- 85 Nero is one of the few Proseccos packaged in Ca’ dei Zago 2010 Col Fondo (Prosecco). ness on the finish that gives momentum to the wine’s a bottle. Lively effervescence renders a soft, 86 This has some light deposits at the bottom of bubbly foam. Solstars Inc. —M.L. foamy feel and the sparkler ends with peach, honey and the bottle, with a slightly cloudy appearance. Aromas abv: 11% Price: $18 sweet almond. Riondo USA. —M.L. of stone fruit, melon and citrus create a broad and thick abv: 10.5% Price: $13 aromatic front. Williams Corner Wine. —M.L. Zonin NV Cuvèe 1821 Brut (Prosecco). abv: 10.5% Price: $18 86 Easy and bright, this is a great summer sipper. Riondo 2010 Punto Rosso Brut (Prosec- It makes no huge pretense, nor should it. It’s crisp acid- 85 co). Dry and tonic, this has steely bubbles and Canella NV Extra Dry (Prosecco). Canella’s ity is backed by white flower and peach. Zonin USA. subtle aromas of crushed stone, citrus and dry hay. Pair 86 pocketbook-friendly Prosecco opens with dry- —M.L. this easy with fried finger foods or grilled shrimp appe- ing tones of talcum powder, citrus and tangerine. The abv: 11% Price: $15 tizers. Riondo USA. —M.L. mouthfeel is cheerful, lean, informal and crisp. Empson abv: 11% Price: $15 (USA) Ltd. Best Buy. —M.L. Anna Spinato NV Extra Dry (Prosecco). abv: 11% Price: $11 85 Plush, sweet aromas of peach and lemon blos- Serenissima NV Extra Dry (Prosecco). som are backed by fun, perky bubbles. There’s a soft, 85 Named after the mighty Republic of Venice, Caposaldo NV Brut (Prosecco). This is but lively accent on the finish. Royalty Importers. Serenissima opens with sharp effervescence and bright 86 simple, showing dry tones of crushed stone —M.L. aromas of citrus and white flower. This easy effort is and white peach. There is some softness in the mouth abv: 11.5% Price: $13 crisp and clean on the finish. Sevillana Imports Inc. thanks to the creamy quality of the wine’s foamy bub- Best Buy. —M.L. bles. Kobrand. —M.L. Anno Domini Vineyards 2011 47 Extra abv: 11% Price: $7 abv: 11.5% Price: $NA 85 Dry Millesimato (Prosecco). This opens with aromas of citrus and crushed white pepper. There’s Tiamo NV Extra Dry (Prosecco). Made with Paladin 2011 Millesimato Extra Dry (Pro- a touch of soft sweetness on the close, with a bright, ton- 85 organically farmed fruit, Tiamo sparkling Pro- 86 secco). Fresh acidity and aromas of peach, ic quality of effervescence. Sevillana Imports Inc. Best secco opens with steady bubbling and a bright straw- lemon soda and almond skin define this cheerful spar- Buy. —M.L. gold color. The bouquet delivers honey, butterscotch kler. Pair this with tuna carpaccio. Serendipity Wines. abv: 11% Price: $9 and lemon soda. Winesellers Ltd. —M.L. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $15 abv: 11% Price: $16 Il Follo NV Extra Dry (Prosecco). Redo- 85 lent of peach, lemon soda and crushed flint, this

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2011 Trevisana NV Santiquaranta Extra Dry Piera Martellozzo 2010 075 Carati Extra Berlucchi NV ’61 Rosé (Franciacorta). 85 (Prosecco). This easy-going Prosecco opens 87 Dry (Veneto). A 50-50 blend of Pinot Bian- 89 This boasts a light peach-pink color and bears with a fresh bouquet of white flowers, citrus, peach and co and Chardonnay, this opens with aromas of peach, yeasty aromas of baguette, exotic fruit, pineapple and talc powder. The mouthfeel is crisp, fresh and very in- honey and white rose. The quality of the bubbly per- ripe melon. The finish shows bright accents of sour or- formal. Sevillana Imports Inc. —M.L. lage is tonic and crisp, but both grape varieties provide ange rind or grapefruit. Terlato Wines International. abv: 11% Price: $NA the wine with medium structure. Vinoterra Importers. —M.L. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $39 Trevisana 2011 Extra Dry (Prosecco). abv: 12% Price: $15 85 Fresh and floral, this offers creamy foam and a simple bouquet of stone fruit and citrus. It also deliv- Teresa Raiz NV Brut (Veneto). Made with OTHER SPARKLING ers a plush, semisweet sensation on the palate. Sevillana 87 , this shows simple perlage fol- WINES Imports Inc. Best Buy. —M.L. lowed by plush aromas of yellow fruit, melon and fresh abv: 11% Price: $7 citrus. The unique grape variety used lends a sensation Arunda NV Brut (Alto Adige). Using the of structure and firmness. Peter Warren Selections. 88 Metodo Classico, this shows bright aromas of Cà del Doge 2011 Extra Dry (Prosecco). —M.L. citrus, mountain flower and apricot. The mouthfeel is 84 This simple, refreshing offering opens with abv: 12.5% Price: $30 round and smooth, with a playful touch of bitter almond a pungent note of crushed white pepper and citrus; on the close. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L. the palate bears a tonic, steely effervescence. It’s easy Villa Sandi NV Il Fresco Rosé (Veneto). A abv: 12.5% Price: $NA going and crisp. Sevillana Imports Inc. Best Buy. 87 delightful rosé sparkler that embodies a fresh, —M.L. easy style, this opens with a forest berry aroma and pres- Comelli 2010 Brut (Friuli). This Chardon- abv: 11% Price: $7 ents crisp acidity and creamy foam on the finish. Folio 87 nay-based sparkler opens with creamy perlage Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. and bright aromas of apricot, honey and yellow rose. Carlo Bisol Solighetto NV L’Enso Extra abv: 11.5% Price: $15 The varietal’s natural structure and richness is palpable 84 Dry (Prosecco). There’s a slightly pungent on the palate. Peter Warren Selections. —M.L. note of ripe melon or lemon zest at the start followed Il Follo NV Brut Cuvée Rosé (Veneto). abv: 12% Price: $23 by sweet floral tones of jasmine and honeysuckle. This 86 This starts with subtle aromas of wild rise, lem- tastes soft and chewy on the close. Casa Torelli . —M.L. on zest and forest berry. The blend is based on Glera, Zonin NV Rosé Brut (Italy). An all-Italian abv: 11% Price: $23 with 15% Cabernet Sauvignon added for color. Van- 85 blend of Garganega, Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay guard Wines. —M.L. and Nerello Mascalese, this bright rosé sparkler is easy- Inalto NV Brut (Prosecco). Packaged in a abv: 11.5% Price: $16 going and clean, with pretty citrus and almond notes on 84 picnic-friendly 375-ml bottle, this delivers big the close. Zonin USA. —M.L. aromas of cut grass, almond and even a distant touch Piera Martellozzo NV 075 Carati Rosé abv: 11% Price: $15 of toasted peanut. The sparkling wine is dry, crisp and 85 Cuvee Dry (Veneto). Bright-pink in hue, this slightly sour on the finish. Atlas Imports. —M.L. has crisp acidity and enduring aromas of grapefruit, abv: 12% Price: $11/375 ml raspberry, wild fruit and chopped herb. There’s even a RED WINE touch of bitter almond on the bubbly close. Vinoterra Novaia 2006 Corte Vaona (Amarone del- Importers. —M.L. 90 la Valpolicella Classico). From the Classico VENETO SPARKLING abv: 11.5% Price: $15 zone of Amarone, this shows delicately floral aromas of Bisol 2002 Millesimato Eliseo Bisol Cu- pressed violets and lavender behind zesty spice and ripe 92 vée del Fondatore Talento Metodo Clas- blackberry preserves. Overall, this is a more feminine sico (Veneto). For full review see page 5. FRANCIACORTA and soft expression of one of Italy’s most muscular red abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Bellavista NV Gran Cuvée Satèn (Fran- wines. North Berkeley Imports. —M.L. 93 ciacorta). This Chardonnay-based sparkler abv: 15% Price: $NA Costaripa NV Brut (Veneto). Fragrant and has a beautifully smooth and silky quality, with bright 88 full, this has aromas of apricot, honey and fresh- aromas of apricot, tangerine, toasted bread and almond. ly baked bread. There’s a touch of minerality or brim- The suppleness of the mouthfeel and creaminess of the DESSERT WINES stone on the close that gives it a tonic, crisp finish. This perlage is what ultimately sets it apart. Empson (USA) Tenuta Polvaro 2010 Dulcis Verduzzo Chardonnay-based sparkler would pair with raw fish or Ltd. —M.L. 92 (Veneto). Made primarily from Verduzzo, with oysters. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $79 a small percentage of other native grapes, this opens abv: 13% Price: $39 with aromas of caramel, butterscotch, pine nut and Contadi Castaldi 2007 Brut Rosé (Fran- sweet apricot. The acidity keeps the palate refreshed. Costaripa NV Brut Rosé (Veneto). This ciacorta). 92 A sparkling blend of Pinot Nero and This tastes like it should cost two or three times its price. Metodo Classico rosé opens with a pale pink- 88 Chardonnay, this peach-colored rosé opens with deli- Arel Group Wine and Spirits Inc.. Best Buy. —M.L. peach color and delicate aromas of wild berry, raspber- cate aromas of grapefruit, apricot, honey and toasted abv: 14% Price: $14/500 ml ry, lemon zest and toasted bread. The wine is straigh baguette. The quality of the perlage is fine and persis- forward, elegant and clean. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. tent, and the finish leaves a long sensation of freshness. Cesari 2009 Recioto della Valpolicel- abv: 13% Price: $39 Terra Moretti Trading. —M.L. 90 la Classico. This has superintense flavors of abv: 12.5% Price: $34 spice, bramble and ripe fruit, with biting tannins and Conte Collalto NV Rosé Extra Dry (Vene- tart sweetness. Recioto della Valpolicella dessert wines to). Conte Collalto is one of the most important Contadi Castaldi NV Brut (Franciacorta). 87 are not for everyone and need to be paired carefully estates in the Conegliano subzone of Prosecco Supe- 90 Chardonnay is the base of this creamy spar- with dark desserts such as rum cake or chocolate fudge. riore. This delicate rosé sparkling blend shows fine bub- kler, with additions of Pinot Bianco and fragrant Pinot Opici Wines. —M.L. bles and elegant aromas of wild berry, blueberry, honey Nero. Together, these varieties produce a balanced and abv: 13% Price: $55/500 ml and almond paste. Alberello Imports. —M.L. rich offering, with lingering aromas of nectarine, apri- abv: 11.5% Price: $18 cot, white almond and honey. Terra Moretti Trading. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $24

WineMag.com | 61 SPIRITS Chairman’s Reserve Silver Rum (St. Lu- 90 cia; Team Spirits Import Company, Bow- SENSATIONAL SILVER: WHITE (LIGHT) RUM ie, MD). As the starting point for one of the best spiced rums on the market, this silver rum holds its own. The ight bodied, crisp and subtle in flavor, is a single Caribbean island. However, the marshmallow-like scent points towards the bold, rather sweet vanilla flavors to be found on the palate, with a white rums—also known as “light” or top three rums in this month’s Buying Guide raspberry note on the finish. Best Buy. L“silver”—are highly mixable. They marry each defy that tradition. Plantation Three Stars abv: 40% Price: $21/1 L well with fruit flavors, so they’re great for and Banks Rum are both made by blending daiquiris, rum punches, mojitos and more. of rums from various islands—an approach Denizen Rum (Trinidad; Citizen Spirits, 89 Manhasset, NY). Made using a blend of rums A common misconception about white rum is more typical of Cognac. Not coincidentally, from the famed Angostura distillery in Trinidad, plus that it’s unaged. But make no mistake: although the maker of Plantation Three Stars also makes “trace amounts” of Jamaican pot-still rum, this spirit is it’s aged for shorter periods than most golden Cognac Ferrand, while the master distiller of frontloaded with lots of marshmallow flavor, plus a faint rums, it does spend time in oak barrels to smooth Banks Rum is the former president of Hine, floral note on the clean finish. out the flavors. After that, the rum is charcoal another distinguished Cognac brand. abv: 40% Price: $16 filtered to remove the color, though hints of And the third? It’s Privateer Rum, produced FlipFlop Silver Rum (Caribbean; Under- vanilla flavor from the oak may remain. in Ipswich, Massachusetts. New England 89 dog Wine & Spirits, Livermore, CA). Pro- Until recently, Brazilian cachaça would has a venerable history as a rum-producing ceeds from this balanced, relatively neutral silver rum have been lumped in with the white rum region. According to some estimates, in 1717, benefit Soles4Souls, an international shoe charity pro- category, even though it is typically unaged. production in the state of Massachusetts viding footwear to those in need. Flavors run to vanilla and coconut, with a clean finish reminiscent of vodka. However, cachaça makers have long protested was 200,000 gallons of rum, and Boston was The playful label sports a Hawaiian-shirt floral motif. this categorization, and, in April, they got home to more than 25 distilleries. Although abv: 40% Price: $14 their wish when the U.S. government agreed the American Revolution disrupted New to begin proceedings to recognize cachaça as England’s rum trade (whiskey was the name of Whistling Andy Hibiscus-Coconut Rum 89 (USA; Whistling Andy, Big Fork, Montana). a separate product. So you’ll find no cachaça the game after that), a handful of local distillers With its transparent pink blush from hibiscus flowers, this below. are bringing the tradition back. Surely, that’s unusually flavored white rum resembles rosé wine in the Typically, rums wear their places of origin worth raising a glass or two. glass. The delicate flavor tends toward sugary coconut, like badges of honor—and usually, that place —Kara Newman touched with vanilla and a hint of juicy red fruit. Though even more fruit or floral notes would be welcome, an af- finity for tropical drinks is readily apparent. abv: 40% Price: $24 Banks 5 Island Rum (Caribbean; ginger and coriander. Add handfuls of mint and stir up 95 Winebow Inc., Montvale, NJ). Created with a pitcher of mojitos. DonQ Cristal (Puerto Rico; Serralles input from New York mixologist Jim Meehan, a partner abv: 40% Price: $20 88 USA, Dallas, TX). Made using a blend of rums in the brand, this blend of 21 rums from five rum-pro- aged up to three years, this smooth, silver rum shows ducing countries—Trinidad, Jamaica, Barbados, Java Rhum Clement Premiere Canne (Mar- forward coconut notes and is made for mixing. and Guyana—would make a dynamite daiquiri. Bright 91 tinique; Rhum Clement USA, Brooklyn, abv: 40% Price: $11 lime flavors meld with warm brown-sugar notes and a NY). Typical of the Martinique rhum agricole style, funky, pleasantly spicy note on the finish. the aromatics on this lively rum tend toward funky and Largo Bay Silver Rum (Barbados; W.J. abv: 43% Price: $30 herbaceous. Meanwhile, the flavors are complex and 88 Deutsch & Sons, White Plains, NY). Clean deep, showcasing vanilla and molasses, and lots of bak- and neutral, this rum almost reads like a vanilla vod- Plantation Three Stars Rum (Caribbean; ing spice (clove, nutmeg and cassia bark). It’s easy to see ka. Vanilla dominates the nose and palate, with a bit of 94 W.J. Deutsch & Sons, White Plains, NY). how lovely this would be with additional barrel time. black pepper on the finish. Soft and well balanced. Blended by Cognac Ferrand using rums from Barba- abv: 40% Price: $30 abv: 40% Price: $12 dos, Trinidad and Jamaica, this elegant newcomer is ex- pected to reach the U.S. in fall 2012. Look for sweet, Agua Libre (USA; St. George Spirits, Al- Doorly’s Macaw White Rum (Barbados; candied citrus-peel aromas and flavors, enlivened with 90 ameda, CA). This 100% California sugar-cane 87 W.J. Deutsch & Sons, White Plains, NY). This white pepper and fresh ginger. Best Buy. rum is made in the style of Martinique rhum agricole, sweet, coconuty white rum is surely Piña Colada-bound. abv: 41.3% Price: $25/1 L but with a touch of West Coast swagger. What does that There’s a smooth feel and nice coconut fade on the finish. mean in your glass? A funky, pungent, even primal ver- abv: 40% Price: $13 Privateer Silver Reserve Rum (USA; Pri- sion of silver rum, reminiscent of a mezcal without the 93 vateer Rum, Ipswich, MA). With most rums, smoke. Look for grassy, almost vegetal flavors sweet- La Isla Bonita Rum (West Indies; W.J. there’s a sense that longer barrel time will make it bet- ened with a bit of ripe pineapple funk. Consider pairing 87 Deutsch & Sons, White Plains, NY). A ter. But this one is perfectly lovely in its au naturel state. this with a meaty snack, such as bresaola or beef jerky. light-bodied rum with vanilla overtones and a bit of ag- Enticingly delicate floral and raspberry notes wind into abv: 43% Price: $36 ricole-like funk. A pronounced, lingering vanilla flavor a clean finish with a pop of cinnamon. Soft and fresh. and drying alcohol unfold on the finish. abv: 40% Price: $25 Brugal Rum Blanco Especial (Domini- abv: 40% Price: $10 90 can Republic; Remy Cointreau USA, New Bacardi Superior (Puerto Rico; Bacardi York, NY). This “dry rum” is destined for tiki and tropi- La Cana Grande Silver Rum (Barbados; 91 USA, Miami, FL). Clean and classic, from the cal drinks. The aroma is mild, with a delicate tropical- 85 W.J. Deutsch & Sons, White Plains, NY). citrusy aroma to the light, crisp flavor with endnotes of fruit note. On the palate, it’s soft and sweet, with vanilla Mix this soft, sweet rum into a fruity tropical drink like a and coconut flavors and a pleasingly crisp finish. mai tai. Look for a lingering mix of coconut and vanilla. abv: 40% Price: $20 abv: 40% Price: $13

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 BEER color with an off-white head. Initial aromas of earthy, wood-driven spices and tart cherries abound, with a sec- ondary note of barnyard and a rich caramel streak. The A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE beer exhibits superb balance; the full-bodied and slight- ly sweet profile is countered by lifting sour fruit flavors. hile many may assume that lines Enter the wild. Although wild ferments are Medium carbonation keeps the palate fresh and lively. need to be drawn and sides taken famously rooted in Belgian brewing tradition, abv: 7.2% Price: $NA/750 ml Win the timeless beer versus wine American brewers have created a new style debate, others choose to believe that the path of their own: American Wild Ales. “Wild” Avery Muscat d’Amour Barrel-Aged Wild to enlightenment lies in our ability to become yeasts or bacteria, such as Brettanomyces, 92 Ale (American Wild Ale; Avery Brew- ing Company, CO). Number 10 in Avery’s Barrel- cross-drinkers, embracing the best of both Saccharomyces, Pediococcus and Aged Series, the Muscat d’Amour is brewed with Mus- worlds and never limiting oneself to just one Lactobacillus, are introduced into ferments, cat grape must and aged in Chardonnay barrels for 14 or the other. I am a huge fan of this concept. leaving a distinct imprint on the beer. Often, months. It definitely blurs the line between beer and However, it seems like an increasing these are sour notes as well as barnyard, Band- wine, thanks to enticing Brettanomyces-infused grape number of brewers are looking for ways to Aid, animal or earthy characteristics. aromas partnered with a brisk, moderately carbonated mouthfeel and a soft malt core. Distinct Muscat flavors bridge the gap between hardcore beer fans To these ales, many brewers also add fruit, of peach and lychee abound, balancing the beer’s sour- and serious wine lovers. Whether it is with or as we see from the selections reviewed this ness. The wild-yeast characteristics—mouth-puckering the ingredients or equipment that they use, month, traditional wine grapes. These additions citrus and funk barnyard—are high, but it’s complex and or the style in which they choose to brew their augment the acidic, vinous characteristics that thoughtful. Only 194 cases were produced. selections, their experimentation is resulting in these brews often exhibit, and make amazing abv: 10.78% Price: $8/12 oz the hybridization of beer and wine. options for pairing with food, especially hearty Avery Récolte Sauvage Barrel-Aged Wild Extreme brewing seems to have become entrees like braised meats and fatty steaks. 91 Ale (American Wild Ale; Avery Brewing mainstream, and everyone wants in on the fun. While these beers are definitely different, Company, CO). Number 11 in Avery’s Barrel-Aged Brewers play around, making limited-edition, intriguing and enjoyable to many, they are not Series, this ale is brewed with Cabernet Sauvignon grape must and aged in Cabernet Sauvignon barrels for high-end beers that are highly sought after and for everyone. But for all you winos out there, 14 months. There are apparent red grape and jammy sell out within minutes of release; consumers try them and you might find yourself slowly berry characteristics, coupled with a rich oaky pres- feel like they’ve obtained special beverages for creeping over into cross-drinker status, too. ence that adds depth and a fine tannic structure. The unique tasting experiences. —Lauren Buzzeo Brettanomyces-based barnyard notes are present, but not overdone, with the Cabernet exhibiting greater con- trol over the overall profile than the yeasts. It finishes Lindemans Cuvée René Grand Cru cently relocated to a new space in Elmsford, New York, dry and dusty, with a touch of boozy warmth. Only 121 96 Gueuze Lambic Beer (Gueuze; Brouwer- that is about five times the size of its old brewery. This cases were produced. ij Lindemans, Belgium). The Cuvée René is one of Cuvée, now in batch #5, is something special: a Belgian- abv: 11.03% Price: $8/12 oz the top examples of the traditional Gueuze style. Hazy style golden ale refermented with Muscat grapes and and dark yellow in the glass. The bouquet leads with a aged in oak wine barrels with Brettanomyces. The bou- Samuel Adams Barrel Room Collection distinct tart, barnyard character from the Brettanomy- quet is vinous and complex, with bright aromas of green 91 Stony Brook Red (American Wild Ale; ces, supported by aromas of lemon and puckering green apple, lemon and melon rind framed by barnyard and Boston Beer Company, MA). The Stony Brook Red apple. The palate is just as one would anticipate from toasty oak accents. The palate is bright and effervescent, marries Sam Adams’s Kosmic Mother Funk, or KMF, the nose: mouthwatering citrus and pear skin laced with with more of that Bretty tartness coming forward along- with a strong red ale base that was fermented with a hints of hay and cellar floor. It’s simple yet complex all at side fine wood tannins that linger well into the long fin- Belgian-style ale yeast, and is then aged in oak for more once, with each sniff snd sip revealing more nuance and ish. Only 1,000 bottles were produced. than six months. The result is a sexy, seductive selec- character than the one before. abv: 8% Price: $15/375 ml tion that exhibits great balance and complexity. Fruity abv: 5.0% Price: $11/750 ml esters of tart cherry and red plum are peppered with Allagash Coolship Cerise (American earthy wood and oaky vanilla-spice accents. Medium Allagash Coolship Balaton (American 93 Wild Ale; Allagash Brewing Company, carbonation and a distinct sour acidity keep the mouth 95 Wild Ale; Allagash Brewing Company, ME). Like Allagash’s Balaton bottling, the Coolship fresh and lively, while the finish ends on an attractive ME). The Coolship lineup—named after the large shal- Cerise is also brewed with cherries (as the name sug- dry note. low pan used to cool wort overnight, allowing naturally gests), but this one uses a mix of Maine-grown Balaton abv: 9.0% Price: $10/750 ml occurring yeast from the air to inoculate the wort before and Montmorency varieties. The result is similar, with being transferred to barrels the following morning—is a forward cherry flavors dominating the nose and pal- Lindemans Faro Lambic (Faro; Brouwer- special project from Allagash. Aged in oak barrels with ate, but it’s also a bit riper than the Balaton, with flavors 90 ij Lindemans, Belgium). The Faro style is a Maine-grown Balaton cherries, this is one stunning selec- more reminiscent of cherry pie and hard candies. The unique Flemish classic, more popular in Belgium than tion that’s sure to impress beer nerds and serious winos woody element is still there, as the Cerise is also aged in the U.S. Historically, sugar or simple syrup was added alike. Tart cherries and wild yeast funkiness take center in oak, but it shows a more earthy mushroom and forest to young, unblended lambic to balance the beer’s tart stage on the nose and palate, with supporting notes of floor character. Cinnamon and clove marry into the red- acidity. This beer offers all of the classic lambic tartness baking spice, cherry pit, graham cracker and toasted oak berry-flavored finish, with a hint of tart acidity lingering and barnyard characteristics, but it’s countered with a appearing throughout. The finish is long and wine-like, on the close. sweet fruitiness and caramel accent that makes it stand with accents of tart berries and dusty tannins. abv: 8.3% Price: $15/375 ml out. Pineapple, orange jam and Granny Smith apple fla- abv: 5.9% Price: $15/375 ml vors are dusted with candi sugar and pastry dough. Try Jolly Pumpkin La Roja Artisan Amber Ale it with an open mind, and allow it to transport you to the Captain Lawrence Cuvée de Castleton 93 (American Wild Ale; Jolly Pumpkin Arti- streets of Bruges. 95 Batch #5 (American Wild Ale; Captain san Ales, LLC, MI). This amber ale brewed in the abv: 4.2% Price: $6/12 oz Lawrence Brewing Co., NY). Captain Lawrence re- Flanders tradition pours a slightly cloudy mahogany

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