Buying Guide
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BUYING GUIDE AUGUST 2012 Seifried Estate’s Brightwater Vineyard in Nelson is planted with Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Noir and Zweigelt. 2 NEW ZEALAND 46 BURGUNDY 14 ARGENTINA 51 NORTHERN ITALY 21 CALIFORNIA 62 SPIRITS 36 OREGON 63 BEER 39 PORTUGAL FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT 42 ALSACE BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM PHOTO © KEVIN JUDD WineMag.com | 1 NEW ZEALAND MORE DIVERSE THAN MEETS THE EYE s Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski explains in his feature on New One of the beautiful characteristics of Pinot Noir is it’s ability to convey Zealand whites this month (“New Zealand’s Best White Wines,” a sense of place, reflecting where the vine was grown more than other vari- A page 50), there is far more to the country’s vinous offerings than eties. Although New Zealand’s regional system is nowhere near as compli- the sea of Sauvignon Blanc that has flooded retail shelves. While the wines cated as Burgundy’s, there are distinct differences between the country’s have brought increased attention and awareness to New Zealand as a qual- Pinot Noir-producing regions, from the cheerful accessibility of Marlbor- ity winemaking region of the world, there is a vast wealth of additional va- ough to the elegance of Waipara and the savory earthiness of Martinbor- rieties and styles worth exploring. ough. The current emphasis on single vineyard wines or block selections The whites are well covered in Czerwinski’s article, as consumers are takes this sense of place even further, offering consumers the opportunity encouraged to search out other varieties that are extremely suitable to the to experience even more specialized and unique epressions—at a fraction country: Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Riesling, just to name a few. Not only of the cost of many French counterparts. do the wines rival their more traditional Old World counterparts (think If Pinot Noir is generally not your grape of choice, alternatives still Burgundy and Alsace), but they are also sold at amazingly attractive pric- abound. Syrahs that seem to lie somewhere in the middle of traditional Old es, making them some of the best values to be discovered both on retail and New World styles, and Bordeaux-style blends that amaze for their bal- shelves and restaurant wine lists. ance of ripe fruit and plush yet structured mouthfeel, are just a few more But what about the reds? Pinot Noir is the country’s most widely plant- options that are waiting for you. And, as always, feel free to check out all ed red variety, accounting for approximately 14% of all vineyard acreage our reviews, from New Zealand and beyond, at buyingguide.winemag.com. in 2011. Cheers! —LAUREN BUZZEO NEW ZEALAND Dog Point 2008 Section 94 Sauvi- notes, and a suggestion of briny minerality on the long 90 gnon Blanc (Marlborough). From a chal- finish. Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. lenging vintage, this wine matches the intensity of abv: 13% Price: $26 SAUVIGNON BLANC barrel-fermentation and aging with potent grapefruit Framingham 2011 Sauvignon Blanc Dog Point 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- notes. The mouthfeel is creamy and lush, while the fla- (Marlborough). Framingham is one of New borough). Complex on the nose and richly vors of oak spice and citrus linger easily on the finish. 89 93 Zealand’s Riesling pioneers, but this shows the winery is textured in the mouth, this wine delivers it all. Hints Fully mature; drink up. Vintus LLC. —J.C. 14% $35 serious about Sauvignon Blanc as well. There’s a smoky, of struck flint and wild onion accent grapefruit aromas, abv: Price: struck-flint character on the nose, then layers of citrusy while the flavors range easily from pink grapefruit and Greywacke 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- fruit on the palate. It’s medium bodied, with a long, red currant to delicate herb shadings. It’s full with- borough). For full review see page 7. grapefruity finish. Evaton, Inc. —J.C. out being too full, with a potent yet refreshing finish 90 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $20 that seemingly lingers forever. Vintus LLC. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Jawbone 2010 Reserve Selection Sauvi- Lil Rippa 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- abv: 13.5% Price: $22 90 gnon Blanc (Marlborough). Impressive for 88 borough). This medium-bodied wine is bright its bold tropical fruit flavors and subtle texture, this is and refreshing, filled with tart citrus flavors. Hints of Saint Clair 2011 Pioneer Block 3 43 De- a nicely proportioned Sauvignon Blanc that manages fresh-cut grass, passion fruit and pineapple keep it in- grees Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). 92 to combine richness with enough refreshing citrus to teresting. Drink now. Nice Legs LLC. —J.C. This bottling is a bit green and herbal while remaining achieve balance. Drink now. Jawbone Winery and Vine- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 plump and ripe in the mouth. The aromas are intense yards. —J.C. and vibrant, redolent of gooseberries and crushed to- abv: 13% Price: $23 Saint Clair 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- mato leaves, while the flavors are a beguiling mix of ripe borough). Saint Clair produces some 86,000 tropical fruit, with an herbal edge that lingers on the fin- 88 Saint Clair 2011 Pioneer Block 1 Founda- cases of this solid Sauvignon Blanc. If it’s not quite as ish. Winesellers Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. tion Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). In- rich, concentrated or flamboyant as its Pioneer Block abv: 13.5% Price: $26 90 tensely passion fruity from start to finish, with accents bottlings, it still delivers authentic Marlborough Sau- of fresh herbs just adding a bit of complexity. This is a vignon character. Pineapple and tomato leaf notes are Saint Clair 2011 Wairau Reserve Sauvi- medium-bodied, creamy-textured Sauvignon Blanc that well balanced, while the wine is medium bodied and gnon Blanc (Marlborough). For full review 92 displays an admirable blend of ripe tropical fruit and slightly creamy in the mouth. Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. see page 5. Editors’ Choice. just a hint of green. Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $29 abv: 13% Price: $26 Giesen 2010 The Brothers Sauvignon Cloudy Bay 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- Saint Clair 2011 Pioneer Block 18 Snap Blanc (Marlborough). Relatively light borough). This Marlborough classic remains 87 90 Block Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). bodied, this Sauvignon Blanc has pungent aromas of on form, artfully blending pineapple and crushed toma- 90 From a block in the lower part of the Wairau Valley, this crushed tomato leaf and nettles. It’s a green style from to leaf notes. If it’s a bit leaner than some examples from is a pungently herbal expression of Sauvignon Blanc. the region, it’s also more elegant and refined; less ex- Yet there’s plenty of body and textural richness to off- plosive and flamboyant, but tighter and more focused. set and even complement the green tomato and tobacco Moët Hennessy USA. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Continued on Page 11 2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2012 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new- release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Goldeneye 2009 Ten Degrees Pinot Noir Editor Michael Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman 94 (Anderson Valley). This low production (365 in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, cases) Pinot Noir is a selection from the winery’s vari- Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor Riglos 2009 Gran Corte Las Divas Vine- ous vineyards. It’s an enormous wine, intricately layered Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa 96 yard (Tupungato). This wine takes you on with blackberry, cherry, cola, mushroom, pine needle, Rosa. a trip to an outer wine world where deep, cushioned bacon and toasty oak. It’s also very acidic, and the tan- If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s berry aromas come with exotic perfumes, bath oils and nins close in fast, giving the wine an astringency that initials appear following the note. When no initials appear crushed flower petals. It’s ultrasaturated and jammy, but lasts through the finish. This needs time; hold until following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect not clunky or heavy. This tastes like a storm of black 2016, at the very least. Cellar Selection. —S.H. the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits berry, espresso and Swiss chocolate, while black spices abv: 14.5% Price: $110 Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by and length bring up the rear. A blend of 50% Malbec, Lauren Buzzeo. 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cab Franc; drink Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by now–2017. Paul Hobbs Wines. Editors’ Choice. the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content —M.S. cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. abv: 14.9% Price: $50 Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores.