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Sir John Herschel and the Breithorn
298 SIR JOHN HERSCHEL AND THE BREITHORN • SIR JOHN HERSCHEL AND THE BREITHORN BY CLAIRE ELIANE ENGEL HERE is a tradition according to which the Breithorn was first climbed in 1813 by a completely unknown Frenchman, Henri 1 • • Maynard and later by Sir John Herschel. F. F. Tuckett inci- dentally mentioned the fact that Sir John Herschel had told him he had ascended the Breithorn from the Theodul in 1821 ; Tuckett had never heard of Maynard.2 Lord Minto, who went up the mountain in 1830, called it Monte Rosa and said, it was the summit ascended in I822 by Sir' John Herschel. 3 His authority vvas either Sir John himself, or J oseph-Marie Couttet who had been the first guide of both parties. Coolidge accepted 1822 as the date of Herschel's climb.4 According to Tuckett, no Zermatt guide had ever reached the summit before him, in June 1859. · Now it is obvious that there is some missing link in this story, and I • • endeavoured to find it. Thanks to the great .kindness of the Rev. Sir John Herschel, the astronomer's grandson, I am able to give the com plete story of the second ascent of the Breithorn by Sir John Herschel in 1821. His travel-diaries are kept in Slough Observatory House, the family seat, and his grandson allowed me to read them and to have his drawings photographed. I found a few more details in Sir John's letters to the Genevese astronomer Alfred Gautier vvhich are kept in the Bibliotheque Publique et U niversitaire in Geneva. -
Guide Hiver 2020-2021
BIENVENUE WELCOME GUIDE VALLÉE HIVER 2020-2021 WINTER VALLEY GUIDE SERVOZ - LES HOUCHES - CHAMONIX-MONT-BLANC - ARGENTIÈRE - VALLORCINE CARE FOR THE INDEX OCEAN* INDEX Infos Covid-19 / Covid information . .6-7 Bonnes pratiques / Good practice . .8-9 SERVOZ . 46-51 Activités plein-air / Open-air activities ����������������� 48-49 FORFAITS DE SKI / SKI PASS . .10-17 Culture & Détente / Culture & Relaxation ����������� 50-51 Chamonix Le Pass ��������������������������������������������������������������������� 10-11 Mont-Blanc Unlimited ������������������������������������������������������������� 12-13 LES HOUCHES . 52-71 ��������������������������������������������� Les Houches ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 14-15 Ski nordique & raquettes 54-55 Nordic skiing & snowshoeing DOMAINES SKIABLES / SKI AREAS �����������������������18-35 Activités plein-air / Open-air activities ����������������� 56-57 Domaine des Houches . 18-19 Activités avec les animaux ����������������������������������������� 58-59 Le Tourchet ����������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 20-21 Activities with animals Le Brévent - La Flégère . 22-25 Activités intérieures / Indoor activities ����������������� 60-61 Les Planards | Le Savoy ��������������������������������������������������������� 26-27 Guide des Enfants / Children’s Guide . 63-71 Les Grands Montets ����������������������������������������������������������������� 28-29 Famille Plus . 62-63 Les Chosalets | La Vormaine ����������������������������������������������� -
4000 M Peaks of the Alps Normal and Classic Routes
rock&ice 3 4000 m Peaks of the Alps Normal and classic routes idea Montagna editoria e alpinismo Rock&Ice l 4000m Peaks of the Alps l Contents CONTENTS FIVE • • 51a Normal Route to Punta Giordani 257 WEISSHORN AND MATTERHORN ALPS 175 • 52a Normal Route to the Vincent Pyramid 259 • Preface 5 12 Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey 101 35 Dent d’Hérens 180 • 52b Punta Giordani-Vincent Pyramid 261 • Introduction 6 • 12 North Face Right 102 • 35a Normal Route 181 Traverse • Geogrpahic location 14 13 Gran Pilier d’Angle 108 • 35b Tiefmatten Ridge (West Ridge) 183 53 Schwarzhorn/Corno Nero 265 • Technical notes 16 • 13 South Face and Peuterey Ridge 109 36 Matterhorn 185 54 Ludwigshöhe 265 14 Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 114 • 36a Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) 186 55 Parrotspitze 265 ONE • MASSIF DES ÉCRINS 23 • 14 Eccles Couloir and Peuterey Ridge 115 • 36b Lion Ridge 192 • 53-55 Traverse of the Three Peaks 266 1 Barre des Écrins 26 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable 117 37 Dent Blanche 198 56 Signalkuppe 269 • 1a Normal Route 27 15 L’Isolée 117 • 37 Normal Route via the Wandflue Ridge 199 57 Zumsteinspitze 269 • 1b Coolidge Couloir 30 16 Pointe Carmen 117 38 Bishorn 202 • 56-57 Normal Route to the Signalkuppe 270 2 Dôme de Neige des Écrins 32 17 Pointe Médiane 117 • 38 Normal Route 203 and the Zumsteinspitze • 2 Normal Route 32 18 Pointe Chaubert 117 39 Weisshorn 206 58 Dufourspitze 274 19 Corne du Diable 117 • 39 Normal Route 207 59 Nordend 274 TWO • GRAN PARADISO MASSIF 35 • 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable Traverse 118 40 Ober Gabelhorn 212 • 58a Normal Route to the Dufourspitze -
512J the Alpine Journal 2019 Inside.Indd 422 27/09/2019 10:58 I N D E X 2 0 1 9 423
Index 2019 A Alouette II 221 Aari Dont col 268 Alpi Biellesi 167 Abram 28 Alpine Journal 199, 201, 202, 205, 235, 332, 333 Absi 61 Alps 138, 139, 141, 150, 154, 156, 163, 165, 179 Aconcagua 304, 307 Altamirano, Martín 305 Adams, Ansel 178 Ama Dablam 280, 282 Adam Smith, Janet 348 American Alpine Journal 298 Adda valley 170 American Civil War 173 Adhikari, Rabindra 286 Amery, Leo 192 Aemmer, Rudolph 242 Amin, Idi 371 Ahlqvist, Carina 279 Amirov, Rustem 278 Aichyn 65 Ancohuma 242 Aichyn North 65, 66 Anderson, Rab 257 Aiguille Croux 248 Andes 172 Aiguille d’Argentière 101 Androsace 222 Aiguille de Bionnassay 88, 96, 99, 102, 104, 106, Angeles, Eugenio 310 109, 150, 248 Angeles, Macario 310 Aiguille de l’M 148 Angel in the Stone (The) Aiguille des Ciseaux 183 review 350 Aiguille des Glaciers 224 Angsi glacier 60 Aiguille des Grands Charmoz 242 Anker, Conrad 280, 329 Aiguille du Blaitière 183 Annapurna 82, 279, 282, 284 Aiguille du Goûter 213 An Teallach 255 Aiguille du Midi 142, 146, 211, 242 Antoinette, Marie 197 Aiguille du Moine 146, 147 Anzasca valley 167 Aiguille Noire de Peuterey 211 Api 45 Aiguilles Blaitière-Fou 183 Ardang 62, 65 Aiguilles de la Tré la Tête 88 Argentère 104 Aiguilles de l’M 183 Argentière glacier 101, 141, 220 Aiguilles Grands Charmoz-Grépon 183 Argentière hut 104 Aiguilles Grises 242 Arjuna 272 Aiguille Verte 104 Arnold, Dani 250 Ailfroide 334 Arpette valley 104 Albenza 168 Arunachal Pradesh 45 Albert, Kurt 294 Ashcroft, Robin 410 Alborz 119 Askari Aviation 290 Alexander, Hugh 394 Asper, Claudi 222 Allan, Sandy 260, -
Alpejskie 4-Tysięczniki
Alpejskie 4-tysięczniki Po zdobyciu kilku 4-ro tysięczników przyszło mi do głowy zrobienie listy (a jakże) i kompletowanie pozostałych szczytów. Na stronie Pettera znalazłem potrzebne informacje. W Alpach jest 51 szczytów o wysokości bezwzględnej powyżej 4000 metrów i wybitności nie mniejszej niż 100 metrów, czyli takich, które pasują do definicji „prawdziwej” góry. W 1994 roku UIAA ogłosiła oficjalną listę aż 82 szczytów czterotysięcznych i te dodatkowe 31 są zamieszczone na poniższej liście jako szczyty „nie ujęte w rankingu” (NR). Istnieje wiele punktów spornych na tej liście. Znajdują się na niej wierzchołki o wybitności zaledwie kilkumetrowej, podczas gdy pominięte są na niej wierzchołki o wybitności kilkudziesięciometrowej. Nie planuję wdawać się w dyskusję co jest „prawdziwą” górą a co nią nie jest. Podobnie jak przy innych projektach, tak i tu chodzi przecież o to, by być w ruchu. Kolorem zielonym oznaczam szczyty przeze mnie zdobyte, natomiast kolorem żółtym te, z którymi żadna próba do tej pory się nie powiodła. Primary Rank Name Height Difficulty factor 01 Mont Blanc 4810 4697 PD 02 Dufourspitze 4634 2165 PD 03 Zumsteinspitze 4563 111 F 04 Signalkuppe 4556 102 F 05 Dom 4545 1018 PD 06 Liskamm (east) 4527 376 AD 07 Weisshorn 4505 1055 AD Primary Rank Name Height Difficulty factor 08 Täschhorn 4490 209 AD 09 Matterhorn 4478 1164 AD- 10 Mont Maudit 4465 162 PD 11 Parrotspitze 4436 136 PD 12 Dent Blanche 4356 897 AD 13 Nadelhorn 4327 206 PD 14 Grand Combin 4314 1517 PD+ 15 Finsteraarhorn 4273 2108 PD 16 Mont Blanc du Tacul 4247 -
Peaks & Glaciers®
Peaks & Glaciers® 2021 JOHN MITCHELL FINE PAINTINGS EST 1931 Peaks & Glaciers® 2021 20th Anniversary Exhibition Catalogue All paintings, drawings and photographs are for sale and are available for viewing from Monday to Friday by prior appointment at: John Mitchell Fine Paintings 17 Avery Row Brook Street London W1K 4BF Catalogue compiled and written by William Mitchell. [email protected] + 44 (0)207 493 7567 www.johnmitchell.net To mark our twentieth Peaks & Glaciers exhibition, a dedicated and 3 richly illustrated book will be published later in the spring of this year. Drawing on two decades of specializing in these paintings, drawings Anneler 43 and rare photographs of the Alps, the anniversary publication will chart some of the highlights that have passed through my hands. The Avanti 16 accompanying essay will attempt to explain – to both veteran followers and newcomers alike- why collectors and readers of these annual Braun 44 catalogues continue to enjoy receiving them and why this author Bright 26 derives such pleasure from sourcing and identifying the pictures that are offered. Above all, it promises to be a beautiful homage to the Alps Calame 24, 38 in a year when many people have been unable to spend time in the Colombi 20, 27 mountains and inhale, in the great climber and author Leslie Stephen’s words, ‘all those lungfuls of fresh air’. Contencin 6, 12, 15, 36, 39, 40, 43 da Casalino 48 Details of the book and how to get a copy will be sent to all Peaks & Glaciers enthusiasts nearer the time. Daures 18 Fourcy 14, 19 There has already been some significant snowfall in many parts of the Alps this winter and, as per every season, it is difficult to know in Grimm 11 advance which areas will receive more than others. -
Chamonix to Zermatt
CHAMONIX TO ZERMATT About the Author Kev Reynolds first visited the Alps in the 1960s, and returned there on numerous occasions to walk, trek or climb, to lead mountain holidays, devise multi-day routes or to research a series of guidebooks covering the whole range. A freelance travel writer and lecturer, he has a long associa- tion with Cicerone Press which began with his first guidebook to Walks and Climbs in the Pyrenees. Published in 1978 it has grown through many editions and is still in print. He has also written more than a dozen books on Europe’s premier mountain range, a series of trekking guides to Nepal, a memoir covering some of his Himalayan journeys (Abode of the Gods) and a collection of short stories and anecdotes harvested from his 50 years of mountain activity (A Walk in the Clouds). Kev is a member of the Alpine Club and Austrian Alpine Club. He was made an honorary life member of the Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild; SELVA (the Société d’Etudes de la Littérature de Voyage Anglophone), CHAMONIX TO ZERMATT and the British Association of International Mountain Leaders (BAIML). After a lifetime’s activity, his enthusiasm for the countryside in general, and mountains in particular, remains undiminished, and during the win- THE CLASSIC WALKER’S HAUTE ROUTE ter months he regularly travels throughout Britain and abroad to share that enthusiasm through his lectures. Check him out on www.kevreynolds.co.uk by Kev Reynolds Other Cicerone guides by the author 100 Hut Walks in the Alps Tour of the Oisans: GR54 Alpine Points -
Mountaineering Ventures
70fcvSs )UNTAINEERING Presented to the UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO LIBRARY by the ONTARIO LEGISLATIVE LIBRARY 1980 v Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from University of Toronto http://www.archive.org/details/mountaineeringveOObens 1 £1. =3 ^ '3 Kg V- * g-a 1 O o « IV* ^ MOUNTAINEERING VENTURES BY CLAUDE E. BENSON Ltd. LONDON : T. C. & E. C. JACK, 35 & 36 PATERNOSTER ROW, E.C. AND EDINBURGH PREFATORY NOTE This book of Mountaineering Ventures is written primarily not for the man of the peaks, but for the man of the level pavement. Certain technicalities and commonplaces of the sport have therefore been explained not once, but once and again as they occur in the various chapters. The intent is that any reader who may elect to cull the chapters as he lists may not find himself unpleasantly confronted with unfamiliar phraseology whereof there is no elucidation save through the exasperating medium of a glossary or a cross-reference. It must be noted that the percentage of fatal accidents recorded in the following pages far exceeds the actual average in proportion to ascents made, which indeed can only be reckoned in many places of decimals. The explanation is that this volume treats not of regular routes, tariffed and catalogued, but of Ventures—an entirely different matter. Were it within his powers, the compiler would wish ade- quately to express his thanks to the many kind friends who have assisted him with loans of books, photographs, good advice, and, more than all, by encouraging countenance. Failing this, he must resort to the miserably insufficient re- source of cataloguing their names alphabetically. -
Mer De Glace” (Mont Blanc Area, France) AD 1500–2050: an Interdisciplinary Approach Using New Historical Data and Neural Network Simulations
Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde und Glazialgeologie Herausgegeben von MICHAEL KUHN BAND 40 (2005/2006) ISSN 0044-2836 UNIVERSITÄTSVERLAG WAGNER · INNSBRUCK 1907 wurde von Eduard Brückner in Wien der erste Band der Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde, für Eiszeitforschung und Geschichte des Klimas fertig gestellt. Mit dem 16. Band über- nahm 1928 Raimund von Klebelsberg in Innsbruck die Herausgabe der Zeitschrift, deren 28. Band 1942 erschien. Nach dem Zweiten Weltkrieg gab Klebelsberg die neue Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde und Glazialgeologie im Universitätsverlag Wagner in Innsbruck heraus. Der erste Band erschien 1950. 1970 übernahmen Herfried Hoinkes und Hans Kinzl die Herausgeberschaft, von 1979 bis 2001 Gernot Patzelt und Michael Kuhn. In 1907 this Journal was founded by Eduard Brückner as Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde, für Eiszeitforschung und Geschichte des Klimas. Raimund von Klebelsberg followed as editor in 1928, he started Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde und Glazialgeologie anew with Vol.1 in 1950, followed by Hans Kinzl and Herfried Hoinkes in 1970 and by Gernot Patzelt and Michael Kuhn from 1979 to 2001. Herausgeber Michael Kuhn Editor Schriftleitung Angelika Neuner & Mercedes Blaas Executive editors Wissenschaftlicher Beirat Editorial advisory board Jon Ove Hagen, Oslo Ole Humlum, Longyearbyen Peter Jansson, Stockholm Georg Kaser, Innsbruck Vladimir Kotlyakov, Moskva Heinz Miller, Bremerhaven Koni Steffen, Boulder ISSN 0044-2836 Figure on front page: “Vue prise de la Voute nommée le Chapeau, du Glacier des Bois, et des Aiguilles. du Charmoz.”; signed down in the middle “fait par Jn. Ante. Linck.”; coloured contour etching; 36.2 x 48.7 cm; Bibliothèque publique et universitaire de Genève, 37 M Nr. 1964/181; Photograph by H. J. -
3D Reconstruction of a Collapsed Rock Pillar from Web-Retrieved
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci. Discuss., doi:10.5194/nhess-2016-316, 2016 Manuscript under review for journal Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci. Published: 7 October 2016 c Author(s) 2016. CC-BY 3.0 License. Brief communication “3D reconstruction of a collapsed rock pillar from web-retrieved images and terrestrial LiDAR data – The 2005 event of the West face of the Drus (Mont-Blanc massif)” Antoine Guerin1, Antonio Abellán2, Battista Matasci3, Michel Jaboyedoff1, Marc-Henri Derron1 and 4 5 Ludovic Ravanel 1Risk Analysis Group, Institute of Earth Sciences, University of Lausanne, Switzerland 2Scott Polar Research Institute, University of Cambridge, United Kingdom 3Bureau d’Etudes Géologiques SA, Aproz, Switzerland 4EDYTEM, University Savoie Mont Blanc – CNRS, Le Bourget du Lac, France 10 Correspondence to: Antoine Guerin ([email protected]) Abstract. In June 2005, a series of major rockfall events completely wiped out the Bonatti Pillar located in the legendary Drus West face (Mont-Blanc massif, France). Terrestrial LiDAR scans of the face were acquired after this event but no pre- event point cloud is available. Thus, in order to reconstruct the volume and the shape of the collapsed blocks, a 3D model has been built using photogrammetry (SfM) based on 30 pictures collected on the Web. All these pictures were taken 15 between September 2003 and May 2005. We then reconstructed the shape and volume of the fallen compartment by comparing the SfM model with terrestrial LiDAR data acquired in October 2005 and November 2011. The volume is calculated to 292’680 m3 (± 5 %). This result is close to the value previously assessed by Ravanel and Deline (2008) for this same rock-avalanche (265’000 ± 10’000 m3). -
The Alpine Club Library
206 The Alpine Club Library. The entire text of the second edition is revised, rearranged, and rewritten, and the authors have not only simplified the general plan of the guide, but, acting on the advice of the reviewers of the first edition, have added a number of new features, and at the same time have not increased the bulk of the volume. The plan of listing peaks alphabetically within their groups has been retained, and to each peak is added not only the altitude, but the rna p reference number and a key letter indicating its oceanic watershed. It has been considered undesirable to retain the earlier sectional sketch maps, and instead a general key-map has been included. A new feature, noticeably absent from the first edition, is an index of passes with appropriate textual references. A glance at the index of peaks reveals in italics how many mountains in the Rockies are but tenta tively named ; and it is to be hop~ed most emphatically that the decisions of the Geographic Board of Canada, in confirming or revising the suggestions of pioneer mountaineers, will be arrived at with more wisdom and appropriateness, and less regard for passing political fancy, than has been evinced in the recent past. • N. E. 0 . THE ALPINE CLUB LIBRARY. By A. J. MAcKINTOSH. The following works have been added to the Library: • Club Publications . (1) Akad. Alpenclub Bern. 25. · Jahresbericht 1929-30. 9 x 5! : pp. 34 : plates. (2) t\kad. Alpenclub Ziiric~ 34. Jahresbericht. 9 x 6: pp. 43. 1929 (3b) Akad. -
Peaks & Glaciers 2019
JOHN MITCHELL FINE PAINTINGS EST 1931 3 Burger Calame Castan Compton 16, 29 14 6 10, 12, 23, 44, 46, 51 Contencin Crauwels Gay-Couttet Français 17, 18, 20, 22, 28, 46, 50 32 33 39 Gyger Hart-Dyke Loppé Mähly 17, 49, 51 26, 27 30, 34, 40, 43, 52 38 All paintings, drawings and photographs are for sale unless otherwise stated and are available for viewing from Monday to Friday by prior appointment at: John Mitchell Fine Paintings 17 Avery Row Brook Street Mazel Millner Roffiaen Rummelspacher London W1K 4BF 15 45 24 11 Catalogue compiled by William Mitchell Please contact William Mitchell on 020 7493 7567 [email protected] www.johnmitchell.net Schrader Steffan Tairraz Yoshida 9 48 8, 11, 19 47 4 This catalogue has been compiled to accompany our annual selling exhibition of paintings, Club’s annual exhibitions from the late 1860s onwards, there was an active promotion and 5 drawings and vintage photographs of the Alps from the early 1840s to the present day. It is the veneration of the Alps through all mediums of art, as artists tried to conjure up visions of snow firm’s eighteenth winter of Peaks & Glaciers , and, as the leading specialist in Alpine pictures, I am and ice – in Loppé’s words ‘a reality that was more beautiful than in our wildest dreams.’ With an proud to have handled some wonderful examples since our inaugural exhibition in 2001. In keeping increasingly interested audience, it is no surprise that by the end of the nineteenth century, the with every exhibition, the quality, topographical accuracy and diversity of subject matter remain demand for Alpine imagery far outstripped the supply.